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Pierzak posted:Strip and repaint! Strip and repaint! Last thread was longer than my list of unpainted minis. Long live the new thread!
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Mar 11, 2015 15:12
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krushgroove posted:Trust me to misspell the name of my own drat site...it's https://www.tinyplasticspacemen.com 6mm represents, gonna order a thousand 1812 Frenchmen this month    Painting banners in 6mm is fun! 
lilljonas fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Mar 12, 2015 |
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Mar 12, 2015 10:14
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Electric Hobo posted:What rules do you use with these? I'm considering getting into 6mm samurai warfare, but I'm having a really hard time figuring out where I can get a rule set that makes sense. I'm ashamed to say that I only have enough for two armies of DBA. I keep telling myself that I will paint up enough for two armies of Killer Katanas II, but Pike & Shotte might be a better game and there are plenty of samurai conversions. The project keeps getting delayed because my group just wants to play Chain of Command all day every day. Plan B is to replace the 1/72 minis in the Samurai Battles boardgame, and just use them for that. E: give me a shoutout if you go for it and need any terrain, and I'll give you a goon deal http://muraminiatures.com/
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Mar 12, 2015 12:54
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krushgroove posted:Now I'm thinking there should be a storage/transport section of the OP...considering this is thread is mostly about wargaming painting! What could be more suitable for protecting your precious jewel like creations of magic, than actual jewel cases? It's brilliant. But yeah, transportation and storage becomes a big issue once you go past your initial couple of boxes of minis. It is one of the reasons why my two next projects are in 6mm.
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Mar 17, 2015 10:15
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krushgroove posted:I've been basing my 15mm FoW infantry lately, and am in the middle of painting my Dropzone Commander (10mm) stuff...I'm amazing at how much less space an entire army takes in the smaller scales. And with me going to historical gaming shows in the UK recently and for the rest of the year I can definitely see myself getting an army of something, in some period, at some point. Bonus point: magnetized bases in 15mm and smaller can usually be used for fridge battles. Don't try with 15mm elephants though!
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Mar 17, 2015 10:42
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Spent all day watching basketball and painting this. Got a little sloppy towards the end, but who cares; looks tight. That red with those blendings is so. drat. Tight. Terrific job!
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Mar 21, 2015 10:01
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Indolent Bastard posted:
Pro pics anyway. What diameter do you use for bases? 1cm? Half inch?
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Mar 22, 2015 12:48
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Farts posted:One of my biggest problems is painting eyes. Honestly, in most cases it look better to not paint the eyes, because you can't see eyes on people from a distance. But if you want to paint eyes try to not use a pure white, and you might avoid the worst of the crazy looks you might end up with doing eyes on tiny minis. If your paint dries too quickly you can get a paint retarder at most arts and crafts shops. Whenever I dilute paint too much, especially when doing things around eyes and similar details with lots of creases, the paint just runs all over the place.
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Mar 23, 2015 13:32
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Pierzak posted:Use a bigger brush. This as well. I'm currently painting 6mm minis with a size 1 brush. It's tempting to get the smallest brush you can find when painting details, but often it causes more problems than it solves.
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Mar 23, 2015 14:00
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enri posted:This! I spent last night painting fur trim on a model with a size 4 brush It speeds up things a lot when doing assembly line painting as well. It sucks to make a brushstroke, lose focus as you move your brush, dip the brush, move your hands, and re-focus on your mini, and make another stroke. 400 times in an hour.
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Mar 23, 2015 15:08
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Halverine posted:So I've just picked up this hobby after buying Imperial Assault and deciding to paint the minis. I'm following Sorastro's guide videos and am up to my third attempt to paint a Stormtrooper (the first two attempts are currently in a bath of Simple Green). You are being silly. Those look great for tabletop level painting, especially for a beginner painting white, which is a tricky colour. If you want to get an even better result you could go for working with more layers. Doing the white in several, thinner, layers will help you hide your brush strokes. But again, I would not be embarassed at all to put minis of this quality on a gaming table, and neither should you.
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Mar 24, 2015 09:24
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Halverine posted:Wow, thanks. I guess I'm falling for the trap on comparing myself to people who have been doing this for way longer. It's easy to get very critical about your own results. You know exactly where to look for mistakes, because you painted it. And a lot of minis posted online that you might be comparing with are painted specifically for showing. That means that the painter invests a lot of extra attention for a single mini or a small group of minis, and the less experience you have the more time you'll have to invest in getting them "just perfect". So while spending 8-9 hours on a display mini is very reasonable, you'll never get your boxed game painted in time that way. At this stage it's good to get a lot of minis painted, and work on steadily getting used to the paintbrush. In your case I think that just getting a smoother application of the white will improve the look, and that's to a large degree depending on your hand-eye coordination for the brush, and getting the right amount of water in your paint. So I'd continue working on the set of mini, while focusing on trying to improve on those things with every mini. And again, you're already at a good tabletop level, so don't worry if you don't see drastic improvements immediately. Also, your stormtrooper will look at least twice as good once you have painted the base, so you have that going for you as well.
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Mar 24, 2015 10:30
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:
You are absolutely crushing these Deadfleet minis! Amazing.
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Mar 30, 2015 20:11
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Under 15 posted:Haven't painted anything this year, so I broke out the fighter model from the AD&D starter box. He is now ready for ADVENTURE. Looks great, and he also looks like an unbearably smug fellow.
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Apr 1, 2015 08:36
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Arcturas posted:What do you guys use to prep terrain? I finished a formation of epic space marines (6 bases, so 30 marines) this weekend, and painted a dreadnaught and a pair of vindicators, but now I need terrain for them to fight on. (Pictures eventually - I tried to take some this weekend but my light was wonky or I'm bad at cameras and everything came out dark and red. Maybe I need to use a tripod or something.) I often use black Gesso for the first layer on terrain, including 6mm terrain. You can spray paint it instead, but some materials don't like the propellant in spray paints (for example the foam in foamcore), so I find it better to just brush on Gesso. Also seconding not using foamcore alone as hills, as they'll easily warp or get damaged. XPS style of styrofoam ("pink" or "blue" styrofoam used for insulation of homes and similar) is the usual go-to material for hills, but you can probably do it with foamcore in 6mm if you put it on a piece of MDF for support to prevent it from warping. Personally I'd go to a DIY shop and buy a sheet of XPS in a suitable thickness for the hills. I haven't done the type of forests you describe, but I've seen it done many times and it looks great. There's a huge US terrain webshop called Scenic Express that can be a good source for foliage. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Apr 7, 2015 |
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Apr 7, 2015 08:23
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Post 9-11 User posted:Foamcore has never been good to me. Some people have the patience to wrap the whole mess in masking tape or plaster, I sure as poo poo don't. It's really the worst when used as basing for a terrain piece, MDF is a far better foundation (not that I know where the hell to get it these days, it's gone out of style). I use foamcore a lot for walls, either for structure (followed by balsa wood, spackle or similar) or for texture (stones or bricks). But yeah, I'd never use it for bases, where MDF is far superior, or for hills, where XPS is cheaper and sturdier. MDF is still available at the DIY shops around here. My supply problem is that it's impossible to find XPS sheets that are thinner than 4 inches where I live.
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Apr 7, 2015 12:04
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dexefiend posted:
That's a very nice camo scheme you've got there.
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Apr 17, 2015 08:34
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Omar al-Bishie posted:Oh whoops. Had just green stuff in a gap holding the bit in. Guess that's a bad idea! Yeah. Best way to use green stuff fo a solid joint is to drill in a pin in the joint, put super glue on both surfaces, add then put a tiny bit of green stuff in the middle. This is a useful tactic if you have to glue two heavy pieces to each other.
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Apr 22, 2015 08:27
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moths posted:This means a small honeymoon, not a miniatures-themed one... right? Enri is married to a Jain Zar mini, you see. He was there to meet the in-laws.
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Apr 27, 2015 20:51
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hooman posted:Liljonas, I love the busted up rust effects on it. Thanks! It was my first attempt at using hairspray to fix an undercoat of one colour, and then paint another colour as the main coat, and then actually do real scratches with a busted up bbq skewer and some dental tools. The craptank being so crappy meant that it was an excellent opportunity to just try out different ways without worrying about ruining something I care about. The result was that the damages where not at all realistically in scale for a 1:72 kit, but it was a ton of fun. I'll definitely try it again, but with a bit more care.
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Sep 2, 2015 10:33
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krushgroove posted:Which blue one? I'm not fully happy with any of them, like I said I put too much sponge rust on all of them so they do look a little overdone to me. Rather than repaint them entirely I left them as-is (they are scatter terrain after all) and added pigments in various ways to experiment and see how different methods work for rust spots, dust and other looks. As these are slab-sided boxes pretty much I eventually looked at them as practice for tanks, I've got some ebay rescue Rhinos to try next. I think he means the one under the green one. I like the paint job a lot, and it's a cool looking rust, so good job over-all. But if you compare to real life rusted containers you kind of see why it would look more realistic if the rust was concentrated around parts that would be more exposed to wear, http://www.temperaturealert.com/Libraries/MISC_Marketing/Untitled_3.sflb.ashx This is also a good example: http://www.paulinevanlynden.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC7245-550x341.jpg This is good since it shows how you could actually wreak havoc on a container and add a huge amount of rust to it, or have less, and both versions will look good as long as each individual container gets a somewhat even amount, and that you attack it with a plan in mind. You have all kinds in this picture, from almost undamaged with just a few smudges, to almost completely wrecked paint and tons of rust. But each one has a noticable pattern in where it's scratched and rusted, it's not really random. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Sep 7, 2015 |
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Sep 7, 2015 20:04
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SRM posted:So I want to display a single miniature I painted. Is there a good sort of miniature display box I could use for this? I know a dice cube works, but they always have that injection part on the top and they look kinda tacky. He's just a dude on a 25mm base but I might want to expand the base a little bit so it can look like more of a display piece when it's not on the table. Small doll display domes for small pew-pew dolls: http://www.collectingwarehouse.com/Product-Home-Page/Glass-Doll-Domes-22-Sizes/ Just an example, you can find a suitable size if you google around a bit.
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Nov 27, 2015 19:22
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I'm looking for some basing help. I'm far enough into my 28mm napoleonics project that it's time to settle on how to base them. These are going to be from the French invasion of Russia, so I'm thinking late summer/autumn/early winter, but before the snow. And I want to make the bases a little more grassy than the common "stony ground with a few tufts of grass" that you see on so many miniatures. Basically representing something like this kind of grass, but maybe with some tufts for added effect:  I've been googling around, and the closest I find are these pictures, though the blog is old and had no info on how he made them.   I'm trying to make some kind of plan for how to get such an effect, and all I can come up with is to start with a brownish static grass, and then add browish tufts. Am I missing something? Anyone has any great tips on which materials to go for?
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Sep 22, 2016 12:23
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Thanks for the basing tips, I'm planning to raid the local train model shop this afternoon and see what I can find. 
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Sep 23, 2016 12:28
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Ok, so I'm painting metal miniatures. I've apparently hosed up by using a Tamiya spray paint for primer (since that's what the local hobby shop had, and I wanted to spray that very day). The guys are chipping like crazy even now that I'm putting down base coats over the sprayed paint. Would it work to spray a layer of varnish over the paint, to keep it from chipping, or would I be better off either just dealing with it and repairing the paint job until I can varnish, or give up and strip 'em and prime them properly? I'd really not want to do the last option as we're talking some 80 minis with various stages of base coats, but if the end result will be an unplayable force, I might have to go apocalyptic on them. 
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Aug 4, 2018 10:41
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Crossposting from the GW specialist thread. Finally got around to paint up these Underworlds Orcs. WIP after washing and starting with some highlights: However, I'm missing something in the paint scheme. They look a bit... boring? The idea was to have the red and green be complementary colours with the white and black as contrasts, but they don't really pop. Any ideas of how to improve them? lilljonas fucked around with this message at 11:57 on Feb 18, 2020 |
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Feb 18, 2020 11:47
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Chunkystyle posted:I think there is just a bit too much red. I had the same problem with my dudes. They are bit hard with that much armor. also I think it is problem only with Basha, others have other colors to compliment. Whoa, very close to my paint scheme! Thanks, I agree that I'd better try to add more areas covered by the non-red colours.
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Feb 18, 2020 13:38
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Anti-Tachyon posted:Thread, I have a question about basing. I want to do a sandy desert sort of look but I don't have any texture paint. I've vaguely heard somewhere that wall filler or tile grout mixed with paint make ok substitutes but is this actually true? Has anyone itt used them before to do this and what did it look like? My deser stuff is mostly based using medium spackle paste from a diy shop. I sprinkle on some fine grain sand on some spots, but most of the basr is just spackle. https://krigetkommer.weebly.com/mediterranean-theater/fallschirmjagers-part-iii-is-it-really-a-platoon-anymore
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Dec 7, 2020 08:06
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notaspy posted:What's a good way of getting the paint out of citadel pots? I’ve always used toothpicks or matches. Dip it, and put it down on my palette.
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Dec 7, 2020 22:12
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HopperUK posted:I've recently got the itch so I've got myself some skaven and some paint and I'm gonna do it. I haven't painted since I was a kid and the OP was really useful so thanks, thread, and I will try to check back in when I have a rat to show. Skaven are a good starting choice! You can practice a lot of drybrushing and washes since they have so much texture.
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Dec 16, 2020 09:25
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Spanish Manlove posted:Goofy question: why does tamiya extra thin smell exactly like nail polish? Secret inside trade tip: you can just use nail polish remover to glue your minis for a fraction of the cost. Even those without acetone, as afaik it's the ethyl acetate that's doing the actual work. But I'm not a chemist so I can very well be wrong. Either way, you can also use the nail polish remover to get rid of paint stuck to metal minis when you're stripping second hand minis. Not on plastic though, as they'll melt. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Jun 1, 2021 |
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Jun 1, 2021 16:04
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All those dioramas are slick. Continuing the instagram thread: @krigetkommer E: for content I recently went back to my childhood first wargaming love, which is WHFB and Orcs & Goblins. I bought a medium sized work lot second hand, mostly 4th ed to 6th ed but also some Marauder era minis. Now, not all of them are complete. One unit consisted of the multipart goblins, but with switched out weapons (dwarven hammers, elven swords etc). Also, some did not have weapons at all. Or hands. What is a Waaagh leader to do? Well, you turn them into pirates, I guess. Here's a champion with a hook for a hand, with his standard bearer. After last nights work, I'll probably go hog wild and put some pirate hats, squig parrots and similar on these, the stranded crew of a doomed goblin ship. 
lilljonas fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Jun 4, 2021 |
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Jun 4, 2021 14:58
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moths posted:
I painted a ton of tartan for my South African Cape Town Highlanders. https://krigetkommer.weebly.com/mediterranean-theater/cape-town-highlanders-part-3 Paint one colour at a time. In my case, I painted the dark blue first, highlighted it, then painted the green stripes, highlighted them, and finally did the yellow stripes. These of course depends on which kinds of patterns you're going for, but I found it easiest to start with the colour covering the most area and go towards the thinner lines. For 28mm scale, I'd choose a relatively simple pattern such as the one I did. Just doing a big base colour with a medium sized cross pattern with a thinner line in the middle will be relatively simple and still "read" as a proper tartan. You don't need to try to paint the much thinner lines inbetween.
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Jun 4, 2021 15:45
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My second hand gobbos, well, not all of them had hands. So after making some hook hands, the unit is now a stranded pirate crew. But they lacked a certain something.... The squig is sculpted from scratch using green stuff. Now they'll look the part as they melt after the first panic test!
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Jun 9, 2021 21:28
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a pale ghost posted:that is a fine looking squid, good job Lasting Damage posted:owns. Thanks! Going back to my teenage dream of a painted greenskin army is wreaking havoc on my historical painting though. It's very fun. :P Anyone have a good idea for basing? I'm thinking about something a little bit more interesting than just brown dirt, but still not extreme a la special resin bases.
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Jun 10, 2021 08:53
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Spectral Elvis posted:Quick paint question, as I'm looking at getting back into painting figures. I paint primarily with vallejo. Some of the model air paints are a tad on the watery side for painting with brushes, but the model colours are great and I use Vallejo Panzer Aces paints for a ton of both historical and fantasy painting. No need to think about starting from scratch, just think of it as branching out your model painting tools. You'll have use of the more brush-friendly paints for scale model painting, and you'll have toooons of use of airbrushing skills and paints for miniatures painting.
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Jun 10, 2021 14:29
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punishedkissinger posted:What colors do people use for basecoat of caucasian flesh generally? i think i'm starting too light. Vallejo Beige Red.
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Jun 17, 2021 18:29
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Toebone posted:I'd go with reikland fleshshade over the sepia if you plan on painting anything fleshy, but nuln oil and agrax are by far my most used as well. Yeah, I use brown, black and fleshshade mostly when I do my tabletop quality paint jobs. I think browns or blacks don't work that well for flesh colours, as you want that extra red tint that fleshshade has. There's a risk that all colours just blend into each other if you go with just browns and black washes. I've used both army painter washes and GW washes and haven't noticed a huge difference.
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Jun 18, 2021 09:04
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That Tide Tyrant is amazing
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Jun 21, 2021 13:31
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Bucnasti posted:Also White Vallejo Surface primer, I brushed that on for years before getting an airbrush. You don't need full coverage, but you also don't need to worry about it if the coat is inconsistent or a little thick in places, the primer shrinks a little as it dries and ends up with a very thin coat that doesn't obscure details unless it's drenched. I bought a bunch of Vallejo's WW2-themed coloured primers when my LFGS got rid of them on a discount, and they're my go-to option when the weather is too bad for spray priming outside.
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Jun 23, 2021 09:41
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