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I painted my first model ever yesterday and it looks godawful, as might be expected. I used a mixture of Vallejo Model Color metallics, which seem really nice, and Reaper Master Series flat colors, which, uhh, don't. Granted that's probably my lack of talent speaking, but there definitely seemed to be a difference in the ease of use of the two brands in my totally inexperienced eyes. The Vallejo paint seemed to have solid coverage with only one coat over the primer, whereas the Reaper paint required multiple coats and still didn't look clean. From reading the original posts in this thread, Citadel seems to be the best paints but in the worst jars, is that still true? The recent posts about contrast paints seem interesting, but I have no idea what makes contrast paint different than regular.
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May 27, 2021 15:02
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 17:51 |
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Primed with black gesso (can't use spraypaint in my apartment), painted Reaper white  Also bits in Vallejo brass, gunmetal grey, and gunmetal blue, all of which looked good, or at least good relative to the white.
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May 27, 2021 15:11
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jesus WEP posted:yeah white over black isn’t a problem you’re gonna solve with a different brand of paint Fair enough. I'll get some grey primer for the next go-around. TotalHell posted:Results can be fantastic in very little time, you just have to know what you’re doing! Welp  Maybe at a later point
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May 27, 2021 15:19
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Silhouette posted:Reaper MSP are great, you just have to shake the everliving gently caress out of them I'm going to have to paint a lot of things to make all this upfront equipment investment worth it. Guess some of my friends may be the recipients of gifts of terribly-painted nerd stuff in the near future, but the upshot is I'll have people to play against 
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May 28, 2021 14:54
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I'm reading conflicting information on the topic of stripping paint from plastic models. If I use Simple Green, on GW plastic models held together with superglue, will it soften or otherwise damage the plastic? Will it break the superglue?
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May 28, 2021 17:46
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I am brand new to painting and I am clearly doing it wrong. I read about Citadel contrast paints and they sounded more beginner-friendly than regular ones (not needing to be thinned, getting stuff covered in one step) so I got some of those. I am painting some Adeptus Titanicus titans and I sprayed them with Citadel Wraithbone primer, and it looks like they have a good coat, but when I brush them with the contrast paint it kind of beads up like water on glass, and doesn't spread smoothly. I've used blue and black contrast paint and both have behaved similarly. I shook the primer a whole lot before spraying and I shook the paint before brushing it on. Any idea what I'm doing wrong here?
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Dec 9, 2023 00:44
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Spanish Manlove posted:How long did you wait after you spray primed? Half an hour, 45 minutes maybe, on the initial attempt? But I tried again after a few hours and it did the same thing.
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Dec 9, 2023 00:57
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So did I get the wrong primer? I thought Wraithbone was what GW recommended for use with contrast paint. If the beading is normal and I just need to keep brushing at it until it smooths out, I can do that, but since I'm totally ignorant of all this stuff I figured better to ask.
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Dec 9, 2023 02:56
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Urethane posted:Either the primer was a bad batch or maybe something went wrong when you sprayed it on. I forget if layers that are too thick and dry slowly can get more of a glossy finish. Posting some pictures might help us diagnose So here is a picture of a model I just did a few strokes on, with Ultramarine Blue contrast on one side and Black Templar contrast on the other, over Wraithbone primer  It beaded up and then got streaky. There's some Army Painter metallic on the back of the gun that seemed to stick a little better. Here's a tiny thing I primed and then sloshed with Space Wolf Grey contrast and some Army Painter metallic for the gun barrel. The metallic I'm satisfied with and the grey is...okay, good enough I guess, but it doesn't look right.  I did see when I looked online that some images of the Wraithbone spray specify that it's a contrast undercoat on the can, and some don't. The can I have doesn't say Contrast Undercoat, does that mean it's an old formula and isn't appropriate? I also have absolutely no idea how thick is the right thickness to spray primer on, is it supposed to be just a vague dusting or is it supposed to coat it fully? Is there a brush-on alternative primer? I'm willing to spend extra time versus a spray primer in order to eliminate a variable that's messing me up.
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Dec 10, 2023 16:35
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Spraying from too far away is a definite possibility, I didn't hold a ruler up to measure how far away I was. Is there a brand of brush primer that's equivalent to the spray Wraithbone? I'll give it a shot alternating with retrying the spray.
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Dec 10, 2023 17:56
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PoptartsNinja posted:Another possibility: If you start spraying directly at the mini you could be picking up paint that's pre-drying in the nozzle. I am spraying right at the model so this is definitely something I'll try differently. I've been aiming, firing a short spray, then moving to another angle and firing another short spray, all directly at the model. Gravitas Shortfall posted:I've never had those kind of issues with Wraithbone primer so something's weird there for sure. This is a stupid question, but does your can have the "Contrast Undercoat" icon on it?  Mine doesn't, and I'm wondering if it's an actual different formula and that's why it isn't working.
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Dec 10, 2023 19:02
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Urethane posted:Yeah you don't want to aim and fire, you should be pressing the nozzle pointed to the side of the mini and sweeping the spray over it. You can repeat this a couple times but if the paint gets too thick it will dry in a weird way like your example with the texture formed by paint crackle. Thank you, I'll try this. The day I primed these was sunny and cool (about 60F), I think that should be okay?
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Dec 11, 2023 00:48
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IncredibleIgloo posted:The contrast undercoat is just part of marketing. Realistically, contrast paint should flow and apply over any standard primer from most companies. It just won't look good over anything much darker than wraithbone. Krylon and Rustoleum have primers that work for minis, so primer does not need to be specific for minis. When the paint beads up like that it typically means the surface repels water, hence why contrast beaded and the metallic applied better. Typically this is because of a rain proof or water resistant propert or sheen. Did you spray anything over the primer? The coat on the model looks a bit odd, making me wonder if the can is off somehow. I might strip the model and try with a different can or brand. It's probably because I sprayed from too far away and/or because I started spraying aimed directly at the model. I'm going to try again but might not be able to for a while, it's going to be cold and wet here all week. I do appreciate the feedback and I'll update as soon as I can.
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Dec 11, 2023 12:08
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Harvey Mantaco posted:These tiny models next to pennies haunt me Here's a picture of my godawful beginner efforts to make you feel better.  Things I have learned: Army Painter Speedpaint v2 Broadsword Silver is nice for tracks and exhaust pipes. Army Painter Speedpaint v2 Enchanted Steel is nice for weapon barrels. Metallic paints seem a lot easier to use than non-metallic paints.
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Dec 14, 2023 22:52
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I tried the same thing and had the same result. Reading the fine print I think the Vallejo primer is airbrush only. There's a serious lack of brush on primers, it seems like.
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Dec 15, 2023 16:27
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This is another newbie complaint but I hate thinning paints. Just sell me paint I can use without any extra steps that give me more opportunities to introduce errors dammit. That's part of why I was attracted to contrast paints, but they have their own issues.
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Dec 16, 2023 00:33
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I don't have a wet palette but I will get one, thank you. I may also try airbrush paints just to see how they are. And yes I complain a lot because I am a literal baby at painting  I've been thinning with Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinner, is that the right product to be using?
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Dec 16, 2023 01:00
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There's just so many aspects for a brand new person with no artistic skill or knowledge whatsoever, and getting multiple of them wrong simultaneously makes it hard to figure out how to improve  But I'm trying.   The color mismatch is because I tried applying some Army Painter Tidal Wave blue speed paint over Citadel Calgar Blue layer paint. Didn't work out like I'd hoped! Another lesson learned.
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Dec 16, 2023 01:18
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I have a little plastic dish with wells on it, I transfer a few drops of paint to the well (using a plastic dropper in the case of GW paint pots) and then add a couple drops of the thinner and mix it around with a lovely ultra-cheap brush. Then I start painting with a different brush. Tomorrow I'll pick up a wet palette and start experimenting with that. I was using the Tamiya thinner because, well, it said acrylic thinner on the jar and I'm using acrylic paint 
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Dec 16, 2023 01:41
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  Better 
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Dec 16, 2023 02:19
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Nebalebadingdong posted:10mm battle pilgrims finished Amazing, I will never paint with anything like that level of skill. But I have painted something I think is tabletop-adequate, with much appreciation to the tips from this thread:   Edit: Also I think my issues with contrast paints were indeed likely due to me loving up the priming, as several of you said.  On the left is a newly-primed turret done in the way this thread recommended with Wraithbone spray, in the middle is brush-primed with Vallejo Grey, and the right is brush-primed with Army Painter brush primer, which is a very deep muddy grey. Imperial Fist yellow contrast paint was applied the same way to each. It turned out very even and bright over the Wraithbone spray, bright but slightly uneven over the Vallejo (which I noticed was kind of uneven after brushing it on), and even but dull-colored over the much darker Army Painter primer. Kylaer fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Dec 17, 2023 |
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Dec 17, 2023 02:07
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Z the IVth posted:Looks great, just hit it with a sepia wash of your choice (Seraphim Sepia, AP Light Tone, Chestnut Wash etc) and it'll be Thank you! I will get a sepia wash, I bought some Nuln Oil but haven't used it yet. You apply the washes evenly, right, you don't dab them in specific areas? They also make rust effect paints, I believe, and I was thinking about dotting it with some of that.
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Dec 17, 2023 23:41
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I do want to make them look less clean, so sloshing it on sounds like the trick, thank you. And weathering effects, that's the term I was looking for, I'll see if I can find some of that at the local nerd store.
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Dec 18, 2023 02:03
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I've considered getting an airbrush for priming purposes but it seems like an awful lot of work to maintain it and I guess it's also a health hazard? Although I already wear an elastomeric respirator with P100/organic vapor cartridges when I'm in my project room due to the resin printer, unless I have the vat fully drained and all the resin secured in bottles, so I should already be adequately protected.
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Dec 19, 2023 00:53
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Yeast posted:Spraying propellant cans is not particularly good for your health Yeah, that's part of why I've been experimenting with brush priming too. And when I use cans I do it outdoors and wear a respirator. But it's cold and damp outdoors this time of year so that's why I was pondering an airbrush for indoor use. There's a window in my project room and I usually have it open at least somewhat, although when I'm running the resin printer that can be an issue because it gets cold. I've got the air vent in the room taped off and I put weather stripping around the door so there's little to no detectable resin smell in the hallway.
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Dec 19, 2023 16:27
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Some people act like they're working with asbestos, some people just eat the paint, to each their own  What's the current recommended airbrush if my main purpose is priming? The OP about airbrushes was last updated in 2016, is there a new go-to for a brush and compressor?
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Dec 19, 2023 22:45
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I washed the Predator on the right with Agrax Earthshade because it's brown, that's the right contrast isn't it? (it's also got some Vallejo mud textured paint on the front, which I cleverly applied after the shade).   Then I washed the Sicaran with Seraphim Sepia as recommended and it looks pretty good!  More things:  The infantry are primer, Imperial Fist contrast paint, Armypainter Broadsword Silver on the guns and then the sepia wash. Working up my courage to try some finer details. Also working up my courage to try regular paints instead of relying on contrast. I did buy a wet palette but haven't tried it yet. I want to figure out a better recipe for the plasma cannons, although Army Painter speedpaint Plasma Bolt (which is on this one) is okay-ish. I'd like something a little more blue rather than green. Also I tried this Stirland Mud textured effect paint and...I don't think it's necessarily great for mud, but I think it'll look awesome as a rust effect (although maybe not at this scale unless I can figure out how to apply it in reallllly small quantities).  I love Army Painter Broadsword Silver and Enchanted Steel speed paints, they've been the absolute easiest thing for my fumbling novice self to get the hang of. I've been using the Broadsword for tracks, hatches, and exhaust pipes, and the Steel for weapons and I really like the way they both look, and they're super easy to apply. Kylaer fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Dec 20, 2023 |
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Dec 20, 2023 03:03
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The speed at which I can print models is at least two orders of magnitude faster than the speed at which I can paint, so I'll order an airbrush, thanks all for the input!
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Dec 20, 2023 12:31
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Cease to Hope posted:it's not that important with orks It's important to drill them. It's not important to drill them on-center 
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Dec 22, 2023 12:18
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Cease to Hope posted:any given ork gun could be a directed energy weapon Those are for weedy gits. A proper Ork needs more dakka 
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Dec 22, 2023 14:32
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 I don't know if there's a color convention for painting volkite weapons (like blue-white-ish is a convention for plasma) but I'm going with orange. I want to make things easily recognizable on the tabletop and I think orange looks cool  I should probably make an actual list so I have an idea of what I should paint rather than just doing things at random but whatever, I'll get there eventually. Also I need to paint some infantry and figure out how to make the different types distinguishable. So much to do.
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Dec 24, 2023 17:38
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Lostconfused posted:
Don't slap some heads on and call it done, leave the heads off and call it done  Or put some completely unrelated heads on them, like goblins.
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Jan 8, 2024 12:12
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I've found I don't really like painting, but I paint because I really like 3D printing and I have a dream, perhaps in vain but I cling to it, of getting to use my stuff on the tabletop some day and play some games 
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Jan 9, 2024 15:40
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Just noticed I hadn't posted the most recent picture of my painting progress.  They will not win any awards but they're acceptable for the tabletop and that's all I'm going for. (The incredibly dirty looking one in the middle is the one that I washed with Agrax Earthshade instead of Seraphim Sepia, I glopped some textured-paint mud on the front and ran with it )
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Jan 9, 2024 15:56
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Rattle-can priming is the worst way to prime but so are all the others  On that note I also hosed up another batch of priming by doing it when the temp was too cold. I need to figure out how to use the airbrush I bought.
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Jan 13, 2024 17:34
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My can of GW Wraithbone spray says to only use between 59 and 77F. I don't know for regular spray paints.
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Jan 13, 2024 19:25
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SiKboy posted:Its insane you want them in a can tbh, are you worried they'll go off? Have you got Space Marines in a can? Better let 'em out then 
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Jan 14, 2024 19:41
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I made my first attempt at airbrushing today. Just priming a bunch of little bases and a few models. I really need to look at some instructional videos because I have no idea when to stop spraying 
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Jan 20, 2024 01:05
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You'll Cowards Don't Even Eat Paint
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Jan 20, 2024 20:52
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 17:51 |
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Citadel Imperial Fist contrast paint provides what is by my novice standards a very decent yellow in a single coat over a light colored primer.
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Jan 26, 2024 11:55
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