|
If you're good with water effects you can always make it look like the water is being swirled around her.
|
#
¿
Aug 2, 2016 00:31
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 9, 2024 10:21 |
|
|
The Impaler posted:How would you do this? Let it dry for a few hours, then push it around with something into a new shape? Usually you use water effects gel, hot glue or clear acrylic caulk to lay down the ripples on the ground and then you apply the slow set water over the top of it. I mean since in this case its a swampy algae filled marsh you could make the circles by making little concentric berms that radiate out from her using the flock/dirt mixture and then do a bunch of still water coats over that. It depends how "deep" you want the ripples to look like they're going and how harsh you want the perceived force that's making them to seem.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 2, 2016 21:06
|
|
|
Shadin posted:Sorry if this has been covered, this is a big thread to dig through. The potted Imperial Primer isn't actually a primer it's a color match for the black spray primer. Just use Rusto 2X flat black primer (not paint and prime). SRM posted:Is there anything I should keep in mind when painting MDF? Is there anything special I'll need to do to prep it or paint it? You need to let the MDF "drink" because other wise it will absorb all the water based paint you use. I'd recommend use a real deal primer like Kilz to stop it from absorbing everything. Otherwise you should do a few coats of primer. El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Aug 5, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Aug 5, 2016 05:21
|
|
|
Vlaada Chvatil posted:Is there such a thing as true black/grey static grass? I'm trying an experiment with monochrome, but all the images for black static grass on Amazon are very hard to discern detail Ok so, I was messing around with some of this recently because I wanted to do a monochrome nightfighting scheme for my FoW army. I gave up because OSL in 15mm is really a lot harder than I thought it would be. But anyways what I did was use dill weed that I dyed black with artist ink. This works a lot better than doing a traditional static grass because when you do mono schemes you want that really stark contrasting shading on everything and once you dye the dill you can drybrush it with grey/white to get a good stark look while static grass doesn't paint that well in my experience. If anyone would be interested in me writing up something on making your own flock/basing materials I could do that. As someone may remember I was in the process of starting a company that was going to be the only company making biodegradable/renewable resource/ethically sourced basing materials a few years back but we had someone basically steal all of our seed money and by the time we got it back everyone had moved on. Suffice to say the actual stuff they make basing materials out of is not terribly good for you to be in contact with on a regular basis and a lot of it is made from stuff that's not really that good for the environment (if that's a thing people care about).
|
|
#
¿
Sep 2, 2016 23:47
|
|
|
Vlaada Chvatil posted:I've already got dill weed, so I guess I will dye it and see how that works. Thanks for the tip. Ok so this is going to be a long post with a lot of images. I generally use a few things to make my basing materials. There's a number of places you can source your stuff from, I use Mountain Rose Herbs so all the links are going to be to there: For my dirt blend I generally use mostly walnut hull powder mixed with a very small amount of something slightly lighter in tone. I think this one is with some other fine ground bark or nut husk. Generally I favor husks, pits and barks because they retain their color better than organic material. I actually intentionally fade my grass and turf, but you'll have to either seal or dye them or they will fade because organic materials wash out with time:  For turf (non-static grass) I use a combination of Gymnema, Echinachea and Neem because they're all cheap, are very powdery and have good color. Boldo leaf is my chosen "filler" because it's very cheap and easy to dye. If I want to dye the turf I'll use a mixture of future, vallejo green ink and FolkArt moss green. Other times I'll just use a thin coat of GW or SW green wash. Generally I'd advise only using the dye on whatever the main bulk of your mixture will be and keeping the others "normal" in order to maintain a variety of colors and textures. This is the point where if you're going for a deep forest or jungle theme you would add in something with a chunkier leaf size, like various herbs you buy in the grocery or cheap green tea from tea bags.  As I mentioned earlier for static grass I use mostly dill weed. I tend to not use the stuff you get in grocery stores because the individual little hairs (or w/e you call them) are usually smaller than if you buy from a company that sells bulk herbs. I usually dust it with whatever I'm going to be using as turf as well to maintain some cohesion. If you want your grass to stay colorful you need to dye it. Sealing it will help it retain some of its color and tone but a good dye will be 100% effective. I generally split up the grass into several different bins and use different blends of ink in each one (usually green artists ink or Vallejo dark green, vallejo yellow green and other blends involving future and paint). Then after I dye them I mix them back together to form a blend with a variety of tones.  You can use inks, washes and water effects gel applied over them to vary your colors and tones. If you mix the walnut hull powder with water effects it forms a very viscous mud gel that you can use to spread on bases. NWS This is a lighter blend for the dirt, favoring the boldo or senna over the walnut hull powders. It's then been colored using (IIRC) Vallejo Dark Brown ink and some very light drybrushing: http://i.imgur.com/3npRAmB.jpg This is a base of dirt with some patches of 50/50 turf/dirt mix spread over it. Then I put down a bit of the drybrush color and followed that up with some light water effects:  A mix of the dirt with patches of flock again, a bit of dye has been used to vary the color of the dirt:  Speedpainted Celt with a base with a mixture of dirt, dyed turf and traditional basing sand:  Terribad WGF Viking. The logs are dried dandelion root: 
|
|
#
¿
Sep 3, 2016 20:03
|
|
|
GoodBee posted:What do you do with 10-15mm fantasy? Warmaster I would imagine.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2016 04:29
|
|
|
Nebalebadingdong posted:Reaper 20mm round Spackle/Wood filler/Pumice/Fiber Paste is what you want.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 11, 2016 22:01
|
|
|
Plastic Glue only works on a very limited subset of plastics, there's lots of plastic like stuff it doesn't work on. Slow cure stuff like PP/Mantic restic is super glue only.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2016 04:10
|
|
|
You can strip them by using a very quick dunk in acetone. If you do it too long they get floppy tho. I've stripped a bunch of Heroclix this way.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 3, 2016 12:30
|
|
|
Most compressors are pretty quiet but some do vibrate so you can hear them through floors even if they aren't loud from a decibel standpoint. Just avoid those Iwata ninja ones, I've known like five people who have burned through those things in the past year, they are real lovely.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2016 06:14
|
|
|
Neurolimal posted:Looks like my combo set was 80 bux and that was like half a year ago, so yeah that looks to be the normal-ish price. They are OK airbrushes the main problem is that they don't stand up to disassembly at all and it's super easy to bend needles so you need to take paranoid good care of them. I have three airbrushes these days, a Paasche Talon, H&S Infinity and a Veda. The first two are amazing brushes but I still use the Veda all the time for doing bitch work. The Veda WD180 is a very decent brush for how cheap it is (usually under 40).
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2016 07:06
|
|
|
Fyrbrand posted:Here is a dumb thing I immediately purchased when I found it in the local grog hobby shop. Really, how could I not? I would recommend highly reaper's other sharkman: https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/shark/latest/03493#detail/03493_w_1
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2016 08:50
|
|
|
Everytime this comes up I end up writing some form of this rant, I think the last time was in the death thread or the botw thread: GW and most other mainstream miniatures companies have greatly poisoned the idea of painting miniatures by going about teaching people the wrong ways. If you want good, TTQ miniatures then the kind of ultra technique focused high end tutorials pimped by basically every minis company that sells paints is the exact opposite of what you want. It's like deciding you want to paint a mural of Mickey Mouse in your kids bedroom and starting by taking a high level art class about impressionist water color technique. It's not just putting a cart before the horse, it's putting the entire NYC subway system, plus like three roadblocks and a police checkpoint. You want to learn how to paint TTQ well, here's the important poo poo: Brush Control: Honestly this isn't as important as you may imagine, there's a lot of ways to get around sloppy paint applications but it helps a ton. Color choice, tone and coherency: Ok this is honestly the single most important thing ever when it comes to painting and the fact that NO ONE EVER MENTIONS IT RELATING TO MINIATURES is loving stupid and dumb. For this example we're going to use two great paintings that will serve our purposes well: Rembrant's The Night Watch and Rockwell's Southern Justice. Both of these are great works and share a really important element that helps carry over to miniatures: they have a very unified tone. All the colors in most of them shade to the same color (dark brown in each) . The Rockwell is more dramatic and the Rembrandt is more subdued but they both do this. This creates a very subtle but vastly important element within all the figures in the paintings: it makes them look like they belong near each other. Even though the figures in the Night Watch are wearing very different colors of clothing (black, brown, cream, blue, etc) they still maintain a subtle level of cohesion and fit together because the overall effect of shading everything to the same dark brown makes things look like they are lit by the same light source (which is dramatically played in the Rockwell as well). The other thing it does is draw your eyes to the bright elements of the painting that differ from the established tone. In the Night Watch it's the leader of the party, the man in cream who almost seems to be lit by an angelic glow emphasizing his importance. We don't need any context to know that he is without a doubt the leader of this party. In the Rockwell the element is the blood, which is itself drawn in a completely different almost startlingly realistic art style, making the painting itself look like blood has been splashed onto it, stretching the fourth wall between the subjects of the art and the people viewing it. This comes around when painting miniatures because so many times I see people who are competent painters choose color selections that clash horribly with each other and shade to not just completely different colors but completely different areas of the color wheel. You can generally assume you can get away with one color per mini that doesn't fit into your color theme, but you have to remember that whatever becomes that color is now the focal point or at least will draw attention. If you painted a figure in, lets say: ochre pants, a red shirt, black shoes, and accessories and belts in a darker brown leather then you'd be shading everything to a deep brown (or using a wash to get the same effect). You could then paint the feather in his hat, or his armband, or something of that nature a bright blue or green, which will add a nice pop of color. Don't use too many colors: I don't care if it's not realistic for all of your figures leather gear to be the same color, limited color choice reduces the amount of business your figure will have and how busy your figure can be is directly related to how good of a painter your are and if you're taking my advice you aren't there yet. But seriously, limit your colors, and make sure they go together, color wheels are your friend (but you can totally shade blue and green with dark brown, that's a thing!). Washes, inks, dips, etc: Like, seriously, this is how you should paint, the results are killer, especially if you choose your colors right. The only thing you have to do every time is make sure to USE MATTE VARNISH. Dipping without Matte looks like rear end, dipping with it looks amazing. Same with inks, same with washes, they all save time and will help you a lot. The most important part of these, honestly, is that they will help establish a division between the different parts of your mini, if you're not good at lining (IE leaving small amounts of darker color between larger areas of color) this will help break up big color swaths on your minis. But in all seriousness if you choose colors well and apply them decently, base coat -> dip -> base coat -> matte varnish will carry you far.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 27, 2016 23:22
|
|
|
Chill la Chill posted:See this whole rant is cool and good and filled with good advice. But wrt this portion: OTOH you can just say gently caress it and have all sorts of colors to make the eyes bleed. Ok, but like, the dude who does JoJo actually proves my point. Just because something is garish doesn't mean it can't have on point color theory behind it. He does most things as a variation on Purple/Orange/Purple/Aqua/Neon Green which like the most garish color scheme imaginable, but they compliment each other really really well. And at least in a lot of the colorized stuff he keeps his colors to extreme minimums, stuff like how Stardust Crusaders era JoJo's clothing and hair is basically the same color. Slimnoid posted:Nah that's actually the go-to for speed painting a whole batch of models. Prime, basecoat, block out colors, then wash/dip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRzmEtuufTw
|
|
#
¿
Dec 28, 2016 06:42
|
|
|
Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Dipping is a mug's game. There are better products to achieve better results without the mess or risk of wanking about with dips and woodstains. This is actually not true, they are all very different products with extremely different attributes. Because of the way dips work with surface tension they are extremely hard to gently caress up in the way that inks and washes are. Low surface tension inks (IE "magic" ink/wash) are also in a similar state. Knowing exactly how much paint to use and how to spread it is extremely important for using washes, especially the citadel ones, because the large amount of matte medium and varnish in the wash can make a surface look extremely dirty if you over do it. Matte washes and matte ink (like vallejo ink, not like hand made ink or old school GW ink) also have a tendency to spread small amounts of pigment clumps across a surface if you don't know how to think them or if you don't have stellar brush control. Using a poly based stain or a product like army painter (which is way too expensive, but for it's faults is a poly based stain that color matches devlan mud which is not a commercially available product at home depot) will produce results with a more consistent distribution and blend between your high points and low points. Citadel washes are really great, but they honestly need decent brush control for good results and the difference between slopping on agrax and slopping on minwax (followed by a matte varnish) is pretty extreme. For basic utility painting I exclude anything that is predicated on decent brush control, paint thinning and the ability to figure out how to place shadows.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 28, 2016 22:28
|
|
|
El_Pato posted:Yeah! I finally got a chance to work on it the last couple days. Thanks for asking. That's probably the OPRV on the regulator. It's bleeding off excess pressurized air.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 2, 2017 21:47
|
|
|
GreenMarine posted:Are there any goon recommended commission painters? Say for larger projects? Like, I'd like to recommend actual Goons, but if you want high quality painted minis at not an insane price you need to start thinking about sending your minis to Poland. If cost isn't an issue than there's several goons that do commissions but I don't know if any do full army. I'd also tell you to look into r/brushforhire as well.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2017 23:35
|
|
|
The GW snow is just Woodland Scenics but repackaged for 5 times as much.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2017 00:25
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:There are two ways to use it that I've found effective, both of which you should varnish for. Holy poo poo mofugga buy some goddamn matte.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2017 00:16
|
|
|
Don't buy GW sprays, they're extremely overpriced. You can buy better quality acrylic spray paint for significantly less. Just go get a can on Montana Gold and save twenty bucks.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2017 00:48
|
|
|
SRM posted:If you're a nerd like me and care about 100% color match they're worth it in specific instances. The Macragge Blue spray has been a godsend for me and my 3000something points of Ultramarines. I wouldn't buy black or white from them or anything like that, but for specific cases like that it's totally worth it. If I was doing a Custodes or Sigmarine army in the typical gold I'd def grab a can of the gold. It's probably more sensitive because of the metallic flakes in it. Actually it's just really poo poo gold spray paint that's been marked up. You'll get better coverage and a much finer flake on a Montana can then you will the GW. Also IDK what you're talking about because I've never seen one of their sprays that was an exact color match for their non-spray paint.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2017 02:44
|
|
|
Please don't advocate people buy GW brushes, they are overpriced trash. You can go to any art store or hobby store and buy basic brushes that are miles better, even the basic Testors brushes are better and cost less.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2017 02:14
|
|
|
Mierce makes good minis, I wouldn't give them money because their owner is huge scumbag thief, but the minis are nice.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2017 05:01
|
|
|
HardCoil posted:Progresss on archoflagellants and Sgt. Angel. Normal archos are getting the same kind af claws as mr. Angel. Um, IDK why you're sculpting this, don't you know Hasslefree already makes a miniature of Sgt. Angel? http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=officer-nick~hfa032&category=modern-%26%0D%0Apost%252dapoc~modern-adventurers
|
|
#
¿
Feb 6, 2017 06:11
|
|
|
I find the best results are to paint the eye black and then apply a crescent of white with the open part of the crescent facing upwards: but honestly in 28mm you don't really need to worry about pupils, it doesn't matter at that scale anyways as long as you heavily black line the edges of the eye: NWS unless you work at the nekkid elf factory 
|
|
#
¿
Feb 7, 2017 08:09
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:Here's a post exposing the depth of my ignorance, but I never thought to line the eye, but it makes a hell of a lot of sense at 28mm scale. Usually what I do is paint the eye a medium grey (like for instance Reaper Concrete Grey or Vallejo London Grey) then hit the entire eye/socket with black wash and then go over the "body" of the eye with white or an extremely light grey. For actual make-up make-up I tend to use spot application of washes since honestly 28mm is way to small for makeup unless you exaggerate the hell out of it. Unfortunately the only halfway OK example I have of a mini I've done actual makeup on is this Dark Eldar fig that I'm not super happy with:  The other thing you can do which I have seen done to OK success is to actually make a hole in the miniature for the pupil with the tip of a sewing needle or pin and then paint the entire eye white and use a very small amount of low surface tension ink (like magic wash) to get black to flow into just the hole.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 8, 2017 10:28
|
|
|
goodness posted:What's a good line of kingdom Death sized minis ? Doesn't have to be tied to a game, just looking for cool models to paint Anima if you can find them
|
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2017 19:23
|
|
|
nesbit37 posted:One more question for the thread today. I have a kobold bard character that just acquired a warg and I would love to make an accompanying mini. I doubt I am going to find a kobold mini mounted on anything, so what are you favorite small humanoid mounted on dog like creature miniatures that you are aware of? I am going to have to probably get a mounted goblin or halfling or something and mod the figure. My proposal is that instead of converting something to be mounted you mount both your character and the warg to one base as if they are dismounted and fighting. The only reason I say this is because basically no one makes good mounted kobold minis and few people make good kobolds at all, so you're looking at buying expensive mounted goblins from someone like GW (holy poo poo the mounted LotR Warg Orc Characters, who would be perfect for conversions, are loving 40 dollars a pop!) and then getting a small kobold head from somewhere (probably clipped from a Reaper one) and attaching it which is going to be time consuming and cost $$$. On the dismounted hand you can buy the bones warg for like four bucks and then spend 15 on something like this guy: http://www.darkswordminiatures.com/shop/index.php/miniatures/visions-in-fantasy-critters/horned-toad-assassin-with-crossbow.html
|
|
#
¿
Feb 20, 2017 21:35
|
|
|
Skarsnik posted:Aside from a couple of exceptions the 'new' washes are so much better than the inks ever were They aren't anyway near the same things. Washes and inks are used for totally different painting techniques, one creates gradients while the other primarily fills depressions.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2017 21:13
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 9, 2024 10:21 |
|
|
This is good playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=playlist My number 1 item of advice would be to not base your painting tech on people who are too good. That's like diving into traditional painting by starting to paint like Caravaggio. Faust is basically the miniature painting Bob Ross: simple clean style that's easy to pick up, lots of flexible and easy options for getting good results, extremely calm and soothing voice.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 13, 2017 21:53
|
|