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Edit: Tried to post pics but Imgur isn't working. I'll try later.
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Sep 6, 2020 23:19
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 02:21 |
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I finished another wee Ralph Bakshi villain lookin space man. I used the base brown scheme for green from way back and he turned out looking practically radioactive. Still learning about blending and proper highlighting but life's been busy so I'm just trying to enjoy myself.  Funny how he compares to his younger brother.
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Sep 9, 2020 17:44
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How much should I water down a citadel shade so that I get the coloration without the glossy pooling? Thanks.
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Sep 16, 2020 23:12
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Nebalebadingdong posted:don't water it down, use a brush to remove pools. shake it before using to reduce gloss I see. I'll keep that in mind.
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Sep 16, 2020 23:32
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Hey I finished another guy!Dr. Red Ranger posted:I finished another model and made some more progress towards getting my scheme just right for my Death Guard army. I'm not in any rush to play, and I have a large pile of shame anyway, so I'm taking my time and learning as much as I can from each model. I haven't painted regularly since ~2014 so I have to relearn old lessons I've forgotten.
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Oct 11, 2020 23:36
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I enjoy those a bunch. Very clean. How did you do the barrel burns?
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Oct 12, 2020 22:11
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Rad, thanks.
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Oct 12, 2020 23:41
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I know this has had to have come up before, but does anyone have a recommendation for getting started with airbrushes? I got a $75 gift card for Amazon on my birthday, and I figured an airbrush would be a good investment to make by the time I want to get around painting larger models.
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Oct 16, 2020 03:08
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jassi007 posted:Somewhat "standard" advice. Thanks a bunch!
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Oct 16, 2020 14:23
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Electric Hobo posted:Wyrd has some pretty brutal rules in their painting competitions, but they've finally announced the winners, so I can show what I painted for it without getting disqualified. I love the weird Lisa Frank faerie gremlin guy. What sort of grass did you use for that base? Did you need a tool to make it stand on end like that?
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Nov 20, 2020 01:09
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Dienes posted:They are alien grass tufts and really cool: https://www.gamersgrass.com/52-alien-tufts Awesome, thanks!
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Nov 20, 2020 06:43
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Well I got around to it and finished my plague sergeant. I played around with the look some more, tried a new scheme on the sword and so on, but I didn't actually like it when it was finished as much as I hoped. I think the issue is that he doesn't hit the mood I wanted because it's way too bright and colorful- he looks like a weaponized box of Crayola Bold markers. I think I'm going to take a break from mans and work out my basing; maybe then I'll have a clearer mental picture of what I want. 
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Dec 5, 2020 04:13
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Quick question for people who've used static grass before. Do these puffball blooms look like the sort of thing I could make a reasonable approximation of with an applicator and the appropriately colored grass? Does static grass even take color?
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Dec 20, 2020 04:40
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Cool, thanks. I've never used the stuff before so I figured I should ask before I spend any money on the attempt.
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Dec 20, 2020 06:13
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So I just discovered Spider Serum from Greenstuff World thanks to a Squidmar video. I think that'll easily get me halfway there.
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Dec 20, 2020 22:41
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Skails posted:Finished up Champion for the armored skeleton command These are perfect. Exactly what I see in my mind when I think of skellingtons. How did you do the cool mottled metal?
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Dec 31, 2020 03:25
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Fyrbrand posted:Hello thread, I dipped my toe back into WMH / Riot Quest with General Brug Thunderstone: Well it worked pretty drat well. I can just imagine him going on about how much he loves the smell of napalm in the morning.
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Jan 4, 2021 05:57
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Spanish Manlove posted:i kinda wanna get it just to paint it up It's actually pretty fun if everyone's down for some effort. The rules are a little dense for a pickup game, but that's Dark Souls.
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Jan 7, 2021 03:35
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Verisimilidude posted:
Care to explain that base, which has miraculous verisimilitude?
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Jan 10, 2021 00:27
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I don't have pictures to share yet but I'm working on some Sigmar skellingtons to fungus up so I can use them as poxwalkers and I'm actually having a good time modelling again. The past year has sucked, especially in pharmacy, now that I know more co-workers who've caught the virus than not and management is sending me to towns two hours away for 6a-7p solo shifts all the time. It's been hard to have enthusiasm for anything. I'm pretty sure I caught a mild case that wrecked up my cardio under the table because I can't exercise or play my instruments at all anymore. Today I sculpted up some fungal bulbs and sporangium for their bases, ordered some spider serum to spray across the bases to resemble the rhizoid strands everywhere like the desert scenes in Nausicaa, and I'm feeling pretty good about it. I'm not actually skilled at it yet but it's nice to work on something, you know?
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Jan 15, 2021 03:05
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Well I tried out my idea for not-bone skeletons. It looks too dark for usual play distance and I can't unsee Mardi Gras with it, so I don't think I'll move forward with this for the other 9. Glad I tried it though. I need to learn how to use more neutral colors while thinking up schemes.  
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Feb 24, 2021 00:42
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Verisimilidude posted:I think this guy looks awesome!! Hey, thanks! That means a bunch coming from he of the perfect desert primaris. Heroic, this still look pretty cool. Suitably ancient and worn for an ancient robit. How did you make the base? I tried for a desert sort of thing myself and the model train ballast stuff I used turned out to be a bit too big. As for the osl, I think all it needs to really pop is for the sources to be brighter. Maybe the little orbies in the barrels could have another dab of green a shade or too lighter to emphasize that they're bright enough to cast light?
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Feb 24, 2021 02:06
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So here's the dilemma. Here's the rest of the unit. If I can get the purple skelly scheme to show up well enough at table eye level, then the fungal frond growths will be very hard to pop. I feel like I'm just confusing the eye like that. 
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Feb 24, 2021 05:24
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Here's what I'm working with so far. It's taking me forever, partially because of work, and partially because I'm afraid to proceed without feeling really confident in the scheme. Right now I feel like I have ideas that work well individually, but when you put them together it's all bright crayola bold colors and my eyes feel confused looking at it. I think the answer is cooler, neutral colors, maybe on the actual armor like grey tinted green in the recesses or something instead. I'm not great with color theory though, which is how I got here in the first place. Skails, I love those skeletons very much. Just perfect; exactly what I would want my imaginary WHFB Vampire Counts army that'll never happen to look like.
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Feb 24, 2021 19:00
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Electric Hobo posted:The skeleton is looking pretty good, and it's definitely a cool idea. I think your problem is that your highlight orange isn't lighter than your purple in a lot of places. That lack of light-contrast muddies up the overall impression, especially when you're looking at it from arms length. That's fair. I'm still practicing "reading" light on a model, I guess you'd call it. I do think I need to use more orange and keep the yellow to much smaller amounts to really sell it but it needs to be executed more cleanly as well.
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Feb 24, 2021 19:52
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Skails posted:I could see pulling more Orange along the long bones where the light would hit, with brighter spot highlights of yellow, and leaving more purple in recesses and along the shadowed side of bones. That sounds right. I'm still spinning my wheels on the fronds though. My first skelly doesn't have any coming out of him directly, but the rest have fronds or cones coming out of the damaged sections. Do I keep them light colored and simple so that they're noticeable? I'd hate to have managed to sculpt that out and them not work out because the body is too bright.
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Feb 24, 2021 20:20
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Thanks guys. So it sounds like I'm going to have to sacrifice the current radioactive green armor to something more muted. I may want to make the fleshy bits something other than purple too; more traditional sallow flesh colors or something.
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Feb 24, 2021 21:28
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Skails posted:
Outside of my Death Guard with skeletons as proxy poxwalkers that's exactly what I've been doing. Bought up some 3rd edition metal minis and codexes off eBay and enjoyed the nostalgia now that I have some disposable income I didn't have as a 13 year old.
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Feb 24, 2021 21:31
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Eediot Jedi posted:I'm just looking at your skelly boy thinking his bone colours would make great bruised/diseased/decaying/unsettling flesh on something meatier. I like how bold you went and I hope you can get the rad green armour to work. That's actually the original idea. I bumped into it accidentally with ol' curly in the group shot there. I had the green worked out and tried the purple to orange scheme on the horns. It looked suitably weird and almost fungal, so I applied it to the bone and the skull in the center of the bolter. On something explicitly bone it reminded me of the bright orange look that decaying flesh sometimes gets at a certain stage. The hope was that if I kept the dark color purple I could recreate that look with just a touch of the unnatural to it. Thanks Grizzled, that's interesting and good to know. So looking at Gutrot there, in the GW stock photo his left pauldron has a near-black dark green with bright green highlights- I bet that would work. I could even keep the radioactive warpstone glow-->moot green final layers but pare them back to just highlights. Then keep my old brass metallics but try that veridigris look with the green. Expand the orange on the boney bits so it's less dark, then find a middle ground on the flesh so the whole model has contrast somewhere and isn't a wall of eye-searing color. OR I could keep the purple-orange effect for the meaty bits and just have the bone be bone with orange/green worked in somewhere. Rebel, your lines on the pantaloons are great, as well as the 5 o'clock shadow effect. Great work.
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Feb 24, 2021 22:44
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So what paint line do you all like to put through your airbrushes? I have some older vallejos dropper bottles that worked ~ok~, some citadel pots that did NOT take to the brush well and are even harder to get into a dropper, and both took forever to clean out of the brush. I was easily spending 5 minutes attempting to clean the brush per 30 seconds of spraying.
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Mar 15, 2021 20:28
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Cat Face Joe posted:Just want to make sure, you're thinning them, right? Yeah, definitely. I bought some flow improver (this is the correct product, yes?) that I've tried to use to mix it into a more agreeable viscosity. While I'm asking, what's the best way to clean out the brush? Full breakdown and soak would be best but isn't feasable between every color change, but running airbrush cleaner through my badger doesn't exactly work quickly either. Do I need to let it soak in there for a while? Dr. Red Ranger fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Mar 15, 2021 |
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Mar 15, 2021 21:10
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BULBASAUR posted:I just shoot water through it then load up the next color. It doesn't take long. If I used a varnish then I'll shoot some strong alcohol or mineral spirit through it. If I was shooting oils through it, or something enamel based, I'll shoot some solvent through it. I only do full breakdowns once every few sessions and a partial clean at the start of a session. Ok. Should I be concerned if, say, I use some thinned Vallejo model color, then after shooting some cleaning solution through the brush I can still see some purple or what have you collected at the bottom of the cup around the needle? Or am I simply not thinning my paints enough?
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Mar 15, 2021 21:28
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Assessor of Maat posted:crossed posting I enjoy these guys greatly. The color of the base makes it almost look like it's grown a thin layer of mold filament over it.
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Mar 26, 2021 16:02
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Assessor of Maat posted:Thanks, that validates the time I spent struggling to get it to look even vaguely like mold. More difficult than it might sound - easy to sidestep into "ashtray someone spit in". Soooooo my approach, when I feel comfortable enough using my airbrush, is to spray a thin layer of Spider Serum over the base to simulate the mesh of mycelium growing out and over everything. I don't know if it'll take color but that's the idea.
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Mar 27, 2021 02:11
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I found some time to work on another guy, but I think I need to step away from it for a minute. I think my eyes get used to the light and I lose where the shadows and highlights are supposed to be. I'll come back to it and figure something out for the weapons. 
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Apr 19, 2021 00:14
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Verisimilidude posted:
Another great one; a simple scheme executed cleanly paying back dividends. That verdant green looks fantastic. I must have missed the zombie lineman earlier but that skin tone gradient is also excellent.
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Apr 20, 2021 17:31
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Chunkystyle posted:Did couple of more blood ghosts. Kinda happy with photographing this time! I love the gloopy blood ghosts. Everyone's seen spooky ghosts, spectral ghosts, wispy ghosts, and gossamer ghosts. These guys are all messy, moist and ready to mangle.
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Apr 21, 2021 22:35
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I finished another take. I know I'm going to redo the sword, whenever I figure out what that's going to be, but I do like how some of this turned out.  
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Apr 23, 2021 04:22
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Winklebottom posted:Finished up a bunch of grots The world's angriest tic tacs. I love them.
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Jun 11, 2021 22:17
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 02:21 |
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I finished another guy at my embarrassing glacial pace! Hopefully I'll get better and quicker at this so I can finish an army for once. I feel like I just managed to recreate Dark Angels as Death Guard, but I think it looks ok, especially if I can get the bright highlights looking right. I started playing with basing, because I'll have to do that eventually. I have no idea how to achieve that Nausicaa forest look I want so I just started playing with it. I tried the Greenstuff World Spider Serum, which worked out ok, but I'm wondering if it needs some kind of treatment or varnishing afterwards, because it's starting to blow off. Does anyone know if it takes color? I also had no idea what to do with the pitted blades so I gave up and just painted them a metallic. I just don't know how to highlight those lines and pits without them coming out looking terrible. Anyway, here's some comparison shots between the new guys and the old guys, if anyone has any suggestions or ideas. I kinda worry that at table-viewing height it won't be a good scheme. Maybe it needs to be paired with a bright base?        
Dr. Red Ranger fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jun 14, 2021 |
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Jun 14, 2021 02:19
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