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Eej posted:
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Oct 11, 2020 11:15
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How would you make a surface look repainted? Like a captured tank pressed hastily back into service, or a poor paint job coming off, revealing the original scheme. I know some weathering schemes that show primer or bare metal or rust, but they don't end up working for me when trying to reveal a previous coat.
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Jun 21, 2023 07:59
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:I had a similar question actually, and I wanted to ask since you tried some things already .. have you tried painting in the original colour, applying spatters of masking fluid/chipping medium/hairspray, then doing the new colour? This only ever seems to feel good when the repaint is clearly something disposable (eg whitewash) or when showing rust, at least for me. It's also something I wanted to do on smaller surfaces where masking layers are less practical. Bucnasti posted:I would do it the opposite. This is good advice. It may be I'm overthinking it, and tricks to show (in-universe) primer with wear should work. IncredibleIgloo posted:Andy from Andy's Hobby HQ just released a tutorial on whitewash winter camouflage, so I bet it may have some techniques that are helpful. I'll have to check this, thanks!
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Jun 21, 2023 21:29
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Chipping was one of the things I had tried and been unsatisfied with, mainly because it really needs a larger surface to have a good impact imo. That's an excellent guide to it, though.
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Jun 23, 2023 08:01
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tangy yet delightful posted:I've used the same pencil sized exacto tool for probably 20 years now (well with a big gap). Maybe I scrape mold lines more now, maybe I'm getting old and weak, but I'm interested in getting a knife/tool thing that is beefier in the hand to hopefully have my hand feel more comfortable with long sessions. Any recommendations? Papercrafters also use xacto knives and tend to run older. There are a bunch of larger or padded xacto handles aimed at that audience, and they use the same standardized blades. (There are a bunch of blades aimed specifically at them that have some useful applications in WH too, like sickle blades for mold line scraping.) You can also use Tamiya extra thin cement to obliterate mold lines. It's pretty easy, but don't go too heavy, since anything but a thin layer can cause unintentional damage. If a mold line runs over an important detail, using extra thin usually does less damage than trying to shave them off. (Once you get the hang of this, you can use extra thin to create melt damage or obliterate details intentionally, but this is tricky.) Spreading a lot of extra thin around in places that aren't joins means a ton of fumes, but limonene extra thin also works and actually smells nice. (The fumes are safe but wash it off skin and don't get it in eyes/nose/mouth/wounds, of course.) Just make sure not to touch those places before it dries. Big warning though: this trick absolutely does not work with plastic cement that isn't extra thin (meaning it has no binder). And, obviously, it doesn't work on metal or resin. Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Jun 28, 2023 |
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Jun 28, 2023 08:35
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Speaking of which, a while back I found an incredible guide to using plastic cement, both to make bonds but also a bunch of secondary applications. And, for once, it's not a gd video. For these guides, GW plastic models and bases are styrene (except for clear plastic canopies), but third-party bases may not be, even if they're plastic. This is on the site of some store I've never heard of, but people said they're reputable if you live in Canada. Either way, the guides are very useful.
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Jun 28, 2023 08:56
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Z the IVth posted:The GW tool has the one advantage of a curved scraping surface so if you assemble lots of curved models (Eldar) using that edge to do the scraping will deform the surface less than a knife. You can get concave curved Xacto blades, too. Xacto has their own, #28, and there are lots of ubiquitous clones of that, but other manufacturers make other shapes as well. The nice thing about using a sickle blade is that it can be replaced, unlike the mold line remover's edge.
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Jun 28, 2023 12:31
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the #11 blades are just the standard xacto blade. #11-M is nice if you use the pointed tip frequently, since it's less prone to the tip breaking off due to a slightly different shape. #2 is just #11 but larger. the rest of the standard blades (except #28, the sickle blade i mentioned) don't seem too useful to me, but there are plenty of useful tools for xacto handles that aren't razor blades. i'm fond of razor saws and files.
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Jun 28, 2023 19:30
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a scalpel can do a lot of hobby tasks a utility knife can't, and the reverse is very rarely true. especially if you spend a significant amount of time modeling, above and beyond assembling and painting. i can't even imagine trying to cut a clean edge in putty with a boxcutter, or clean up nubs left on a fixer-upper second hand model.
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Jun 28, 2023 20:23
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Spanish Manlove posted:I don't like scalpel handles, they're too flat. But pen knife handles like xactos and stuff are entirely what I'm about. same. i bought an excel k18 for like $5 on sale and all of my other knives got demoted to holding razor saws or other specialty blades. it rarely loses tension, the collar is nowhere near my grip, and it's round but doesn't roll. basically perfect imo. you can get surgical scalpels with other styles of handle and replaceable blades, if you actually want medical scalpels. i don't like them because it's harder to find blades, it's harder to dispose of them safely, and unless you're willing to strop and occasionally hone a disposable blade, they lose their edge fast. unless you do a significant amount of wood modeling, i don't see the point. anyhow by scalpels, i was including xacto knives, which are scalpel-style, just without the concessions to sterility. that's not usually a big concern for people playing warhammer. i was just drawing the contrast with safety/utility knives and box cutters. i imagine there's someone out there painstakingly scraping off mold lines with a linoleum blade though
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Jun 28, 2023 22:07
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use a knife or craft saw. most nippers pinch rather than slice. a good way to keep both pieces under control safely when cutting them with a knife is to use sticky tac to hold down both ends.
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Jun 28, 2023 22:58
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Use a different company's white paint, tbh. White Scar is poo poo. Vallejo Game Color (or Model Color) White is good. if you already have white scar, put some agitators in it and it's fine. that's a good idea to do with any titanium white, tbh. make sure they're actual stainless steel or glass, though, so they're non-reactive. i wouldn't go out and buy white scar on its own ever over some other reputable brand, but if you already have some, all you need is a small glass bead or two. Z the IVth posted:The mold line remover edge won't need replacing ever since its a machined edge on 3mm of solid metal and not a blade. The blades blunt and I don't think a stitch cutter blade will work as well as the mould line remover simply because of how the curve is shaped. the sickle blades work really well ime, dunno what to tell you
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Jun 30, 2023 05:31
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Z the IVth posted:Yeah, this is the typical UK blade set. I don't even know what a sickle #12 blade is. I thought #12 was the one with a convex curved blade. I was referring to the #28 (which isn't in that set even though there's a spot for it, weird).  If there's another common xacto-compatible concave blade, I'm not aware of it. I usually buy mine in an office supply store, but they seem common in arts and craft stores, and sometimes hardware stores. They're commonly used for whittling and leather crafts. Hobby stores seem a bit more inconsistent, and they seem more common in stores that stock balsa models or model ships. This blade is especially handy when I'm cleaning up a model I bought second-hand. I've used one to clean a lot of visible cement welds off of the sides of torsos without removing the arms.
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Jul 1, 2023 02:15
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Rustoleum also, oddly enough, made some of their glue. They had a Model Master's series glue, the little black triangle glue, but the model master one came with a metal tip instead of plastic. I cannot find it anywhere now though, unfortunately. Rustoleum and Testors have been brands owned by the same parent company since 1994, fwiw.
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Jul 3, 2023 05:06
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i don't think it's filez to discuss 3D printing new designs for a possible homebrew addition to an upcoming GW game in any event i'm a bit shocked they are bringing back epic, although the same narrowing of scope that made 30K possible makes sense here too
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Jul 3, 2023 08:52
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dark apostle, it's a CSM character
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Jul 3, 2023 13:12
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there's also chaplain grimaldus, a black templars/space marine character with some similarly themed assistants, and the paperwork servitor from the inquisitorial agents kill team. (the latter is hard to come by until it gets released as a stand-alone at some point, though.)
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Jul 3, 2023 13:24
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Virtual Russian posted:I'm a bit shocked too, they are up against fierce competition in the proxy market. I like the GW stuff, but it isn't better or worse than most of what is available. I like their vehicles more though, those malcador looks so good. 30k is also how they introduced epic the first time, as long as we support it I'm sure we'll see xenos. I cannot imagine they'd reintroduce it without the possibility of growing it to 40k. not quite the same, as space marine was a self-contained game in a box, and the later factions were accompanied by army-in-a-box releases. people keep saying they're going to add more non-imperial armies to 30K any day now, too, and they've barely released some demons.
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Jul 3, 2023 17:25
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:I hope you mean "sand painted goblin green then drybrushed with yellow" sand is a kind of flock someone suggested cement gapfiller as a basing material to me once, i should hit the hardware store sometime
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Jul 4, 2023 12:46
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Lumpy posted:My basing is almost entirely drywall compound mixed with Elmer's glue and water to whatever consistency I need. Add in various grits of sand / small stone and you can base for years with almost no cost. this is reinventing plaster of paris cement from first principles, that rules. i should be looking more carefully at traditional arts and crafts stuff too. i have used proper rocks for basing, but ever since i switched to using cork, i'll never go back. a weightless flexible compressible "rock" i can attach with any glue and shape or pierce with any tool, including my fingernails, is just too convenient. you can even just crumble pieces too small to use for scree or gravel flock. the only things it can't do are making polished or durably sharp shapes, but there are other materials for that. i was mainly curious about the driveway gapfiller as something with a grainy texture that can be shaped into peaks and flows with a (sacrificial) brush but dries harder than air-dry clay. end of the day, it's something i can do reasonably well with plaster or clay or vallejo mud, but something more solid that still has the texture is an appealing prospect.
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Jul 4, 2023 16:12
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I wasn't aware Reaper was even still around! It seems like they're priced comparably to Vallejo but more than Army Painter, at least in USD.
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Jul 6, 2023 00:50
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Chill la Chill posted:Does anyone have experience with the turbo dork line of acrylic color shifting paints (non metallic)? Looking to see both how good the effect is with the non metallic paints as well as how difficult it is to do any sort of highlight or shadows on them. Though I assume since it’s like car chameleon paint it’s meant to be a single coat over primer with no highlights? you got it. if you're going to do anything interesting with them, it's probably grisaille rather than the traditional flat-shade-highlight. (even then, check the ones that do not show up over very light colors.) they're super gaudy, so they look decent if you're painting game pawns or tacky gift store statues or car bodies or some kind of large smooth hull, but on detailed small-scale stuff, they're just an eyesore.
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Jul 6, 2023 04:33
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Eej posted:It doesn't look bad for stuff like Eldar gems tho any good-looking colored metallic will do just as well on a detail that small. AP has some nice and fairly cheap ones.
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Jul 6, 2023 11:10
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EdsTeioh posted:Any recs for a color besides black for the bolter slides on Blood Angels? I always think they look good on stuff like Ultramarines where they're red but I can't really for the life of me thing of a contrasting color that would go with red. very dark, cold browns or really deep blues, to look like case-hardened steel. maybe a dab of metallic medium.
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Jul 6, 2023 18:24
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Shoehead posted:At home and my brother mentioned there was a load of models still in the attic so we had a look. Found an old toolbox full of bits. Things hadn't weathered so well in it and old bits of poly cement had yellowed, but I did manage to snag this guy: I dunno why I wrote a whole giant effortpost for stripping paint but here it is. First off, if the models are filthy, wash them with regular dish soap and a dish towel. Hand-safe dish soap won't damage any models as long as you don't break out an abrasive scrubber. It's not that solvents can't wash these off but it's just pointless contamination. Regardless of what solvent you use, the basic process is the same. For handling, you want gloves (latex/rubber is always fine, nitrile almost always), and always do this in an area with active circulation or outdoors. If you're inside and can smell what you're using but can't hear the circulation, that's probably not somewhere you should be doing this. If the solvent won't destroy the actual model, let it soak while fully immersed in a sealed container for about an hour, overnight, or a couple of days, depending on the strength of the solvent and the paint used. If the solvent will destroy the model, either let it soak for 5-15 minutes (probably best to test with scrap material) or go straight to the active cleaning. If there's some part that will be actually destroyed by the solvent that you don't care about (eg bases, the plastic parts of an old mixed metal/plastic Warhammer model), it's probably best to break most of it off as early as possible. If you can't, check daily and get the ruined part out of the soak as soon as it's easy to break off. Whether or not you soak, the actual cleaning process is the same. Get a brush with firm flexible bristles, like a toothbrush or nylon brush. (The firmer the bristles, the lighter the touch.) You're mainly looking to push the paint off of the model, since scrubbing can lead to an uneven coat of leftover paint that smooths out all the details, or actually abrade the details of the model itself. Dab on more solvent with the brush as you go. (If the solvent will damage the model, make sure to dab it off with a paper towel after.) Once you've gotten all of the loose paint off, you can soak again if necessary. Once you're done, all of the solvents you should actually use evaporate in open air, so just let the model sit in a well-circulated or outdoor place. As for picking solvents: If you need to strip acrylic paint (pretty much any water- or alcohol-based paint), your best bet IMO is isopropyl alcohol, ideally 90% or 99%. You can get it in a pharmacy. (If you have them on hand, other high-concentration alcohols - methyl/ated or "denatured" alcohol, distilled spirits, everclear - can work, just not as well.) Alcohols are nonreactive with everything models are commonly made of except resin, so it won't destroy detail unless you physically abrade it off. It's also pretty much the least toxic popular choice for stripping model paint except some of the non-toxic patent cleaners. Still, use nitrile/rubber gloves and do it outdoors or in a place with active circulation. Alcohols can be disposed of by letting them evaporate (outside!) or at paint disposal sites. (Recycling centers can often do this.) If you filter out the paint residue, most alcohols can also be dumped down the drain if you dilute them as you do, so like pouring slowly into a fully running sink or dumping them in the toilet. Concentrated alcohol or a significant amount of solid paint residue are bad for household pipes, though, and you really don't want to be dumping isopropyl into a septic system. Solid paint residue separated from the solvent is just trash. Alcohols pretty much never attack their containers, either. If it's not acrylic paint, you will need something harsher. Unfortunately, all of these react with styrene plastic (and most other soft thermoplastics used in miniatures and model kits). However, all of these are safe for metal models and still work to remove acrylic paint, so if you want to skip straight to the harsh stuff because you have it on hand and already know how to handle it, be my guest. Anything from here on down generally needs to be disposed of at a paint or toxic household waste disposal site. Dumping them into a sewer system or regular trash is very stupid and may even be illegal. Turpentine (not "mineral turpentine" or "odorless turpentine", the real thing) is the traditional paint thinner, and usually what people mean when they say "paint thinner" with no other qualifications. It's your best bet for removing pretty much any hobby paint, and most other paints someone might've put on a model. However, it will react with most plastics that model kits are made out of, particularly styrene, the thermoplastic most wargame models are made of. In particular, Testors, Revell, and Tamiya all have enamel lines that are or were popular for hobby paint and model kits. Turpentine is a good balance of being actually harsh enough to work quickly without being so harsh that it's guaranteed to cause damage. You can dab, brush, and dab off on plastic models without causing too much damage. It's also similar to alcohol in that you can filter it, dispose of it by letting it evaporate outside, and in that any turpentine-soiled trash can be dried outside and then just tossed out normally. Alternately, you can just treat it as toxic waste. Note that clear containers of turpentine in the sun or bags full of turpentine-contaminated trash are both spontaneous ignition hazards. They are literally oil-soaked rags. Acetone (non-odorless nail polish remover) is the magic bullet of last resort. It will dissolve basically any paint, basically any hobby plastic, and break down basically any hobby glue. It's the go-to to clean a model fouled with superglue, too. However, it also attacks nitrile gloves and quite a few kinds of plastic container. You can usually buy it at any pharmacy or grocery store or department store as nail polish remover, but try to get 100% acetone since there are other solvents used in some nail polish removers. (And "odorless nail polish remover" is not acetone at all.) You can also occasionally get it as glue remover, although there are a few other common solvents sold under that name. The main reason you'd need acetone is because someone used lacquer paint, a spray paint/varnish intended for actual cars or outdoor furniture, or something completely bizarre like house paint or nail polish. (There are hobby lacquer paints from companies like Tamiya or AK but they're mainly aimed at model cars or RC/drone vehicles, which are made from different plastics.) Any plastic model with a paint like this is a writeoff unless you can just paint over it. When working with it, do it outside or with an actual fume hood, and wear actual rubber/latex gloves. (Again, acetone dissolves nitrile.) The actual acetone in the container it was sold in is a hazard but pretty typical household one, on par with camping fuel or spraycans. Don't keep it somewhere hot, don't leave it in the sun. If you need a new container, metal, glass and HDPE (recycle #2) plastic are nonreactive, and an opaque container is better. It attacks a number of common kinds of plastic, including recycle #1 and #3. While HDPE itself is fine, other plastics with that same sort of milk-jug texture generally aren't. You technically can filter acetone to reuse it, but that means a lot more tools you need to check for safety and more contaminated trash, and unlike weaker solvents, it tends to have more dissolved contamination from reaction products. It's not worth it. Contaminated acetone is toxic waste. Acetone-soaked trash is both toxic waste and a spontaneous ignition hazard, like oil-soaked rags. All of that goes to paint disposal sites. Spills in well-ventilated spaces are not a big deal since acetone evaporates (unless it can damage what it was spilled on), but you don't want to dispose of a container of it that way. Isopropyl, turpentine, and acetone aren't your only options. They're just the best ones, since you can get them as pure chemical rather than mixed solutions or secret formulas. Everyone has some sort of home remedy, and most of them can kinda work, if you're willing to work around their disadvantages. First off, there are lots of things that seem like they work but don't actually do anything to paint. You can rub off pretty much any paint with simple mechanical abrasion. These are all basically comparable to soap and water, and you can have some success with some paints, especially older or cheaper acrylics on older unprimed miniatures. Mechanical action always risks abrading or crushing detail if you use too harsh a cleaning surface, do it for too long, or use too much pressure. Actual abrasives are an option. Toothpaste, any gritty household cleaner, a wire brush, or any scraping blade. Obviously, this comes with a risk of damage. Lots of people swear by various nontoxic patented household cleaners. Simple Green is really common but there are others. These usually kind of suck, and need to soak forever. Honestly, I find most people do some of the worst damage with these, because they end up scrubbing to make up for the weaknesses of the solvent. (Plus, you'll want to search online and make sure it doesn't actually dissolve plastic.) Most of them are a mix of some sort of enzyme and/or mild oddball solvent with some kind of surfactant/detergent (soap). Unlike pretty much literally everything here, they are a lot easier to use and dispose of, although you still don't want to pour solid paint residue down your sink unless you want some clogs with interesting colors. Most household cleaning solvents are close to useless. Ammonia and vinegar will dissolve some acrylic paints if you soak them in strong solutions for like a month. Bleach isn't useful. Don't bother. Degreasers usually have some kind of useful solvent, but it can be a crapshoot which, and many of them are secret mixes. There's no general rule but I've never found one worth using. Note that some are dangerous for plastic, like orange degreaser (aka Orange TKO), whose main active ingredient is also sold as plastic cement. Speaking of which, citrus solvent (aka citrus thinner, lots of brand names) is quite bad at dissolving dried paint but very effective at ruining styrene plastic. It's only good for long soaks for metal minis, and is mildly less toxic than turpentine, but not so much you wouldn't still want to take the normal precautions. There are a lot of petroleum-based solvents that can work. These are not one single solvent but a class of them and generally sold as a mixture, so they have lots of names. They're also called white spirits, mineral turpentine, and petroleum spirits. Naphtha solvent is part of this family. Paint thinner or nail polish remover that specifies it isn't turpentine or acetone but doesn't specify what it is, that's also probably a mineral spirit. Odorless paint thinner is also almost always a mineral spirit, albeit a less harsh one. Mineral spirits are usable. They are a bit less effective on paint than turpentine (especially odorless thinner, since the chemicals with harsh smells are the harsh solvents), and they often attack plastic even more aggressively. They do actually work, though, they're just kinda worse all-around compared to proper turpentine. Glycol-ethers are another family of chemicals, and, when they're pure, they all work more or less about as well as turpentine or mineral spirits, while also destroying styrene plastic. (Formaldehyde or glycol as part of a chemical name is a common tell. Alternately, methyl- or ethyl- can be a tell, but methyl and ethyl alcohols are alcohols.) You don't actually want to buy these to use as paint stripper, in any event. They're usually too expensive at a proper concentration, many of them don't evaporate cleanly, and most of the ways they're sold are mixed with other problematic ingredients. I mention them because there are hobby "spot remover", "glue remover", or "paint remover" products that are safe for other kinds of plastic, not the ones generally used in miniatures. Also a lot of One Weird Trick home remedies are something with a high concentration of glycol-ether, like brake fluid or antifreeze. They're just a pain in the rear end and they have no advantages over other options except that you might already own them. Anyone who advises you to use actual fuel is a maniac. Thankfully I don't see this any more, but people used to suggest poo poo like kerosene. Not only is this an incredibly stupid fire hazard, contaminated fuel with paint or melted plastic in it is a pain in the rear end to dispose of and leaves you with a container of fuel that will wreck an engine or stove, if not start a fire. Do not do this. If someone has One Weird Trick that sounds interesting, search for the name of the product and SDS or MSDS. Pretty much every compound that actually works on paint that isn't an abrasive is flammable or toxic, and that means shipping it requires a standardized disclosure sheet. This is a good way to figure out what is actually in something before you go and dunk a model in it. Edit: I forgot ultrasonic cleaners. They work, even the ones made for silverware, jewelry, or dentures. They are technically mechanical rather than chemical, but they won't generally damage detail. However, do not put flammable solvents in household ultrasonic cleaners. This includes alcohol, even though lots of idiots will tell you to put isopropyl in one. It works! It can also explode. Do not clean your minis with a bomb. There are explosion-proof industrial cleaners that are certified to not spark and you can use those with solvents, but generally they're not consumer-oriented as far as I know. Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Jul 12, 2023 |
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Jul 7, 2023 20:09
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Something I forgot (but added to the export post): ultrasonic cleaners work, even the ones made for silverware, jewelry, or dentures. They are technically mechanical rather than chemical, but they won't generally damage detail. However, do not put flammable solvents in household ultrasonic cleaners. This includes alcohol, even though lots of idiots will tell you to put isopropyl in one. It works! It can also explode. Do not clean your minis with a bomb. There are explosion-proof industrial cleaners that are certified to not spark and you can use those with solvents, but generally they're not consumer-oriented as far as I know.
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Jul 7, 2023 21:10
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Jack B Nimble posted:So, aside from one off buys like my Imperial Fist contrast paint, I have a starting set of Vallejo Game Color. That shouldn't be...terrible, right? I'm trying to apply the black to white undercoated bolt guns and it's going on like a glaze? I applied some water to the paint, and it's a wet palate, did I maybe just apply way too much water? VGC (and Vallejo Mecha) are intentionally thinner paints, especially if you're used to VMC or Citadel. They need relatively little thinning for base coats, and are formulated to be easier to use as airbrush paint or glazed.
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Jul 8, 2023 22:55
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Eej posted:That would be VGA (Vallejo Game Air) and Vallejo Model Air! VGC is as normal as any other acrylic hobby paint. The Air lines are even thinner. Those are aimed at people who want a readymade airbrush paint, and you do still need to dilute Mecha and VGC for an airbrush, just a bit less.
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Jul 9, 2023 02:09
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Ghislaine of YOSPOS posted:contrast medium is completely unavailable in the United States. not in any LGS, not on Amazon or eBay for any reasonable price or shipping. there’s a listing for $49.99 on eBay for a pot right now. tale of painters was high on army painter speedpaint medium and scale 75 dispel magic as budget alternatives.
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Jul 10, 2023 08:00
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Virtual Russian posted:I used to pretty militantly argue in favour of a limited palette, but recently was given both of GW's big paint set deals and I must say it is so nice to just have all the colors ready to go. Also GWs paints have such a lovely matte finish. A limited palette doesn't mean using fewer premixed paints. It means limiting the number of different hues you use. If you want to use readymade tints and shades, that can still be a limited palette if you'd like! Just use fewer triads.
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Jul 11, 2023 13:53
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Virtual Russian posted:Yes, one could definitely do that, but no one does that, nor would that be in line with what people mean when they say "use a limited palette." It defeats the point of mixing colors, which is to always have a unique or perfectly accurate color for that specific work, but have all the colors you use look cohesive across multiple artworks. Obviously that is more of a concern for an artist, but a mini painter just wants ease of use and consistency. okay like none of this is true in traditional art, a limited palette is using a limited set of primary pigments that create an overall effect defined by the limitations of those pigments. but you do actually mix those pigments. on minis, most likely we are not doing that. i mean you can if you want but idk why you'd mix your paints from the primary pigments with quick drying acrylics. instead using a limited palette on minis with hobby acrylics means limiting yourself to give the same effect as a limited palette. this is not painting all of your dudes the same main color, but rather choosing the colors that you would naturally have if your yellow primary was warmer or cooler or your blue primary was brilliant or soft or whatever. you can take art classes to see what various pigments can do but you can get like 80% of the effect by picking about 4-6 paints that look good together (your hues), a tint (white or something close), and a shade (a black or dark grey, or even a brown or a purple). rather than fooling with primaries like you're painting a painting, you're skipping a step ahead and only mixing your (probably half or mostly secondary) hues with your tint and shade. you can mix your hues too, you just probably want fewer of them if you do that. at this point you can use the good old base-shade-rebase-highlight wargamer classic. as long as you pick citadel-style triads that match your hues mixed with your tint/shade colors, you can just use those. the point is not literally less containers of paint (since these triads are just readymade versions of the ways both fine artists and wargamers mix their paints as needed anyway) but rather fewer overall hues. there are two cool benefits of this. first, if you're disciplined and do not give into "well, maybe one more color" (too often), it will make your whole army look cohesive without needing to all be the same color. wargamers obviously benefit from all of their work look cohesive! not only that, but it gives you more freedom to experiment with which colors are the main ones, because the warm yellow details on one squad match with the dominant warm yellow on the tank. second, it is so much less hassle. you have so many fewer paint pots to sift through and so much less worrying about finding the perfect color. you can just put away the bulk of your paint collection and focus on arranging the colors you already decided on. (this also dampens the temptation to buy new paints midproject. a little. i've heard.) a nice side benefit is that you really get to appreciate the qualities of a particular paint. you really get to see VMC's sunbeaten dull mattes or citadel's bold satin colors with just the weirdest mixes sometimes. (how is orruk green a warm pea green? wizardry i swear.) also how VMC pale sand is skill in a bottle 2.0. there is some more advanced parts of this and i'm not gonna pretend to have a keen grasp of all that but it is a tool you can you to achieve both consistency and ease of use.
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Jul 12, 2023 01:09
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I should paint more and effortpost less, even if it's  painting
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Jul 12, 2023 01:10
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Virtual Russian posted:Sorry, I think you're totally missing what I'm saying. oh, fair. well, hopefully that post is useful to someone, anyhow.
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Jul 12, 2023 21:15
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a fatguy baldspot posted:Related, does anyone know a good, cheaper match for Citadel White Scar? 20 bucks for a can hurts my heart. army painter matt white if you want a cheaper rattlecan primer made for miniatures. krylon ultraflat is cheaper but you need to be careful with it, it's not a hobby primer so you can fill in detail. worst case it is acrylic, so you can remove it without any trouble.
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Jul 13, 2023 17:30
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Al-Saqr posted:hey guys, I dont live anywhere that has 'simple green' in it but I think I found a similar green product in the stores, can people tell me if these ingredients is the same as Simple green so I can use it to remove primer? Use isopropyl alcohol, 90% or 99%. It's always the same thing and works great.
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Jul 14, 2023 20:54
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If you can't find isopropyl or you like using actual scalpels over hobby knives for some reason, medical supply stores or surgical pharmacies will always have both. Also make sure to get nitrile or latex gloves if you're going to be handling models in isopropyl at all. It's not dangerous but it will irritate your skin.
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Jul 14, 2023 23:35
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a fatguy baldspot posted:Probably not kosher to link it but there’s a site that has forgeworld quality stuff (like the exact same sculpts) for something insane like 25% of the price. China is the future my friends, just an absolutely amazing country in many ways. at my war table, games occasionally have a recast or proxy or two. am i thinking of the same site you are?
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Jul 15, 2023 04:34
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My Spirit Otter posted:i just picked up an iawata starter set, whats a good primer? i had bad luck with army painter so im wondering thread favs. vallejo surface primer, $15 or less for a 200ml bottle. somehow, probably the best primer around is also one of the cheapest. they have a whole range but you really only need grey and black.
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Jul 15, 2023 05:58
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Virtual Russian posted:Hey all, lets cool it on the recasts. I'm an artist, sculptor specifically, recasting done in China and elsewhere, but especially China, is insanely damaging to so many people. I've known too many artists and makers that were ruined because their stuff was getting recast and sold cheaper from China. Artists put in a ton of work in speculating that their initial investment of time and resources will pay off over time, when someone recasts that work they stole all that time and labour the artist put in. This would probably be easier to sympathize with if GW wasn't going all-in in crediting all work to "the Games Workshop studio". It's Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Jul 16, 2023 |
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Jul 16, 2023 07:00
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Virtual Russian posted:I get what you are saying, but that is a legitimate way to operate a company. I don't like it, you don't like it, artists should be credited imo, but at the end of the day it is legit. "Legit" in the sense that it is not technically illegal, perhaps. I don't see any reason to pretend that it's okay, especially when it's so obviously a reaction to ex-GW people who went on to do their own work later. They weren't this bad about credits even in the worst of the bad GW days, but now they've gone out of their way to scour writing and sculpting and painting credits even when leaving it alone would just be free. The rest of this post is just bog-standard corporate apologia. If they're not paying you, why post like that? They have CM and PR people for that kind of thing.
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Jul 16, 2023 16:39
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