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Zhent posted:Saw this posted somewhere else and was curious - is there any actual advantage of using something like this over simply sticking a model on a wine cork? I've seen this KS kicking around a few different places, and while it seems neat, and the bar to rest on is definitely a plus, not having any base adapters for any Warmachine models (or any other round, lipped bases) outside of the smallest 30mm bases is a huge turn-off. Even something in one of the updates saying "hey, we're making  , here's a neat stretch goal we're adding" would've been nice. I mean, it's not bad if you want to stick to smaller models, or have your bigger stuff pinned already, but dismissing it completely so early on is disappointing.
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Sep 6, 2016 22:09
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Looking for a bit of advice before I really get to painting. I'm trying to hash out a paint scheme, using P3 Coal Black as the base (or close enough to it), giving me a nice dark teal/turquoise. I also know I'm aiming to have P3 Meredius Blue as my highest highlight. However, even with significant blending (I've got a test model from my old D&D days to practice on), the transition is too sharp, and there's definitely a feeling like I'm missing a midtone there that would work. I've hosed around with a few other blue-green paints, from mixing some turquoise ink into some Trollblood Base to cruising Walmart in the search of a decent match (even if the quality takes a small hit). I'm almost about to just order the WarColours Turquoise slice and call it a fuckin' day, but I've already got resin bases coming in from the UK and that took $50 and almost a month and i still don't have them yet (though they're in the post, about fuckin' time Fenris Games) and I'm really not looking forward to waiting another who-the-hell-knows-how-long and drop another  ON TOP OF of a work rumor that hours might be cut a bit more before the holiday season picks back up at the end of the year.  So yeah, sorry about the  , I'm just looking for a decent mid-tone turquoise that's not literally halfway across the world half a month out. I'd even take some lovely Apple Barrel paint suggestion, if it worked. I'm not trying to win Golden Demons, I just want a good paint scheme.
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Sep 25, 2016 05:43
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mango sentinel posted:Anyone got any ideas on a highlight for Incubi Darkness? Was basing this scheme on a tutorial video that used Thunderhawk Blue but that's discontinued and I can't find the Reaper analog. More interested in a blue highlight than a green one and don't give a drat which paint line it's from. Giving the usual caveats of "This isn't mine", "found it on a google search", "have no control over the contents", etc., this spreadsheet has been a fraggin' godsend when it comes to comparing colors and looking for replacements. Hope you get as much use out of it as I have.
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Oct 13, 2016 03:53
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Bear Enthusiast posted:Does Model Air work for just brushing on? quote:I tried searching the thread but no real answer, does anyone have any reccomendations for where to start on buying paints? I plan on painting more than just these Alpha Legion dudes so having some good general colors would be nice too, along with a variety for said space marines. Like I look at tutorials elsewhere and I'm not sure when to start when they recommend different colors (like how many metallic silver/grey colors should I even have???). There's so many different ways to do Alpha Legion, so as long as you end up with "Metallic Tealish Blue", you're pretty safe. These are a few different ways to get that color.  (haven't found a bigger pic, apparently it's from Burning of Prospero?)  As for other colors to pick up, you're definitely going to want basic stuff like black, white, red, yellow, blue, etc. Metallics are also a good pick-up, and both GW and Vallejo do good metals. If you're looking for some really neat, kinda cheap paints in dropper bottles, WarColours are definitely with a look. While I haven't used them myself, I've heard good things about the Scale 75 line, both normal paints and metallics. When it comes to washes/inks, I can get behind P3, as they tend to provide a good amount of ink on the cheap and the pigment is pretty strong for what you're using. When it comes down to "how many of X color should I get", it really depends. I know GW has the whole Base, Wash, Layer kinda planned out pretty well, and if you're just getting into things, it couldn't hurt to stick with that (or close to). Reaper triads are also super nice for trying to figure out a base, mid-tone and highlight, though availability might be a ballache, depending upon where you are in the world. I'll also recommend WarColours again here, because they have paints that are literally just "Color 1" to "Color 5", in varying levels of shade and opacity. poo poo's super cash, but it's also out of Cyprus (yes, out in the middle of the goddamn Mediterranean), so shipping is something to worry about as well.
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Nov 10, 2016 05:05
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I almost want to say I'm surprised there's more than just one or two sharkdudes, but at this point in the game, I'm surprised there aren't more. In other news, I have a small album of WIP Warmahordes stuff. I've kinda hit a roadblock, as the turquoise seems a little flat, but both a black and teal wash (Nuln Oil and Coelia Greenshade, respectively) don't quite work. I've been considering a dark blue shade, but my free painting time is rather limited due to work (as once I start for the week, I've got 4 days straight with just enough time to eat, sleep and travel between shifts), so I haven't had a chance to sit down and actually try it out yet. Am I on the right track, or do I need to wait for the next train?
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Dec 9, 2016 06:24
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Fidel Castronaut posted:Thought I would try to make the elite units look different from the regular units beyond just a red band on the base but um...it's a bit too garish. There's a lot of different ways you could go about it, so it's really up to you to figure out exactly how you want to deal with elite units, commanders, etc. 's all part of what makes your army yours. Not bad, in any case. As for tips and techniques, Ghool's Painting Tips, while more aimed at Warmahordes stuff, is definitely good for picking up techniques, both for painting and hobbying (is hobbying a word? it should be). Warhammer TV, while obviously trying to shill GW/Citadel paints and brushes, are actually pretty good too. Might have to swap out and find some alternate paints if you don't happen to be on the GW train, which there just so happens to be a spreadsheet for.
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Dec 21, 2016 19:42
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Not bad, man. Practice is going to be useful anyway, but you at least have the basics down. I will say it looks like you should probably thin your paints a little, as at least the kneepads look a bit chunky, and you could definitely work on smoothing out the transitions. However, I could tell what you were trying to do even before I scrolled down to see that you were practicing, so mission accomplished?
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Dec 27, 2016 21:06
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When you say "already prepared surface", exactly what do you mean? Are we talking like Reaper Bones, where a good chunk of their selling points were "doesn't need primer" (thus implying a pre-treated surface)? Or are we talking already primed (or worse, painted) models and bits? For plastic minis, I tend to make sure it's been cleaned (i.e. no mold release or other residue) and just superglue one piece to another. Metal or resin have the larger, receiving end (shoulder joints, knee nubs, etc) scored with an exacto knife, occasionally have the other piece scored where it'd make contact, and a drop or two of superglue and I haven't had too many issues with dislocation. I might even fill the connection gap with a bit of green stuff and hit that with superglue on both ends as well, partly to set the surface of the green stuff, partly to give another bond for the pieces other than just themselves.
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Jan 15, 2017 10:03
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siggy2021 posted:Finished painting my first pewter miniature last night. If you really want to keep that poo poo super safe, hit it with a coat or two of gloss, then a coat of matte. Gloss varnishes tend to be more actual varnish and thus are more of a protective layer, whereas matte varnishes need to have an additive to get it matte. As such, they end up thinning the actual varnish part of it to be less than ideal for any sort of long-term protection. I've used Krylon Gloss spray varnish with no ill effects, but Testor's Dullcote is constantly recommended as the matte varnish of choice, mostly because of being a lacquer varnish (and thus more resistant to wear and tear than an acrylic varnish). The cans are small, but if you use it as I recommend (i.e. the final coat after gloss varnishing), it'll last you a good amount of models. A very important thing to note, on top of the usual spray-can warnings, is to let each coat fully cure before applying the next. It varies from brand to brand, but you should be looking at least 24 hours, if not longer, just to be 100% sure. If it's not fully dry and cured, the next spray coat will reactivate anything that hasn't cured, and often leads to clouding issues. Just take it slow, because you just spent however loving long on the model, and it'd suck to get impatient at the end and just gently caress it right up.
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Jan 21, 2017 07:16
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No Luck Needed posted:do you gloss and matte just metal figures or do you do that to plastic as well? I am in the priming/washing stages and have not bought finish yet. I was probably going to just go wit the Testor's Dullcote for my plastic orks and space marines but I do have maybe 5 old pewter models to paint, so I am just wondering what people consider good finishers to pieces. quote:edt. because the weather is still cold and rainy in Kansas, I primed 20 grots with Gessco and did a black wash on them. I have only painted the green bits on the grots so far and I enjoy the coloring. Anyone else have experience with brush on primers vs spray primer? Seems like a lot of people prime orks black and space marines gray. The Gessco goes on white and then I did a wash. I plan on using color specific washes as shade after dry brush painting them. Biggest thing I can recommend with any brush-on primer is to have your figures, whatever material or company, cleaned well and rinsed with soapy water before touching them with any sort of anything. All it takes is some leftover mold release under your primer and paint to turn an awesome figure into a flaky mess.
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Jan 24, 2017 20:10
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Just got done watching this video talking about getting started airbrushing. With taxes coming back, I'm gonna have some extra money to fart around with, and I was thinking of picking up a setup. I know I'm not looking to do a ton of work on the regular, just mostly banging out priming, basecoating and maybe some OSL on my Warmahordes Ret army, so I don't want to drop tons of money for something that's not going to see extreme use. From watching the video, what I feel I should probably be using would be a dual-action gravity feed brush with a tankless compressor. For airbrushes, just from lurking I know people tend to recommend the Badger Patriot 105 quite a bit, though there was that one gent upthread who was just saying he had problems with it. If that's a particularly common problem, I'm not so sure I'd really want to pick one of those guys up. On the topic of the compressor, I don't really have a ton of free space inside the apartment I'm in to have a dedicated room, so I'd appreciate something that is either quiet enough to not disturb the neighbors or portable enough to be able to pop outside on nicer days and spray there. Any recommendations/horror stories/brands to avoid?
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Feb 21, 2017 18:54
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Thanks for the advice, guys, and once I get paid, I'll look around and see what I can get for the budget I want to spend. quote:Don't go crazy with an expensive compressor or complicated brush if you're just starting out and only want to do the basics.
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Feb 21, 2017 20:53
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This is more a question for Neurolimal, since he's a self-proclaimed Master shill and also a filthy pleb who I can't PM, so this is gonna poo poo up the thread instead of inboxes. I found this airbrush and compressor kit on Amazon, and it definitely looks like what I'd need to do what I want to do. To be honest, I just want to hear something along the lines of "it's not total poo poo" before dropping $80 on it. I mean, the reviews are mostly positive, with a lot of the lower ones seeming to be a bunch of windowlickers who can't into airbrushes. The fact there's more than a couple of low reviews, though, worries me more than a little bit. I know I'm not getting super top-of-the-line equipment here, and I'm fine with that, but I just want to make sure I'm not getting something that'll break on me the first couple of times I use it through no fault of my own. Also, if I do pull the trigger, so to speak, what's the best primer to use? Should I just stick with the Krylon rattlecans and use the airbrush for actual painting, or is there a primer that will actually do what's supposed to do through an airbrush? Not only that, but I also found a supplier of Vallejo Model Air in my area (literally the only place in the 5 counties near me that does,  ). Does that stuff need to be thinned any more out of the bottle, or should it be good to just drop right into the cup and go?
Aniodia fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Mar 1, 2017 |
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Mar 1, 2017 04:55
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So it's about as idiot-proof as you can get, gotcha. I don't plan on using much of Testor's anything, let alone paints, but appreciate the heads up. At best, it might get some P3 paint (properly thinned, ofc) through it, and that's probably the heaviest I'll go there. Good call on the separate airbrush, though, I'll look for it on Amazon and see what the return policy is if it shits the bed on me.quote:more  I already have a Future/water mix, I think it was 1:5? Something like that, and it hasn't failed me yet with handbrushing stuff, so I don't think airbrushing will really give me too much more of a hassle. As mentioned above, I don't really plan on enamels or lacquers either.Thanks for the advice, though. Once my paycheck hits tomorrow, I'll put the order in.
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Mar 1, 2017 05:56
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What I've done which I think was actually mentioned here a ways back is instead of hitting the area where the eye would be with black, use a dark flesh color. Eyes tend to be recessed into shadow a little bit anyway, so by using a dark flesh it makes it seem like it's already been shaded without any extra work. Even more ballsy, and probably NOT recommended for new painters, is to take the point of a thumbtack or an insanely small drill bit and make a small hole on the eyeball itself (while the mini is fairly unpainted, either completely bare or post-priming). Then, when you get to eyes, just dab a little bit of thinned black paint or black wash (Nuln Oil for Citadel users) to settle in the recess of the pupil. I haven't done something like that myself, only heard about it, but drat does that sound like a huge pain in the rear end to get right. But yeah, eyes in general just kinda suck to do correctly, so don't beat yourself up if you can't get it right right off the bat. Hell, depending upon the scale you could even get away with just using the shadow of the eye, and letting the viewer fill it in themselves. Sometimes less is more.
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Mar 2, 2017 16:05
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Not sure if it would be better here or in the terrain thread, but I got some neat forest bases for my warmachine guys
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May 1, 2017 03:29
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Texmo posted:For the gold, Retributor Armor base -> Reikland Fleshshade Gloss shade -> Auric Armor layer -> (optional) Liberator Gold highlights. Check out WarhammerTV's painting tutorial for Stormcast Eternals for a great video tutorial to do this gold, it comes out looking ace. As an aside, something you could do (and I've done myself with really neat results) is to shade the gold not with Fleshshade, but with the same Druchii Violet you'd already be using for the purple. I'd definitely try it out on a bit of sprue or spare bits first, just to see how you like it. I'd also recommend against the gold primer, as you're gonna have a hell of a time going over that with the purple and not having the metallic flakes show through. Just stick with the black primer though I'd rather use a Krylon or Rustoleum rattlecan from walmart, as it's cheaper and actually primer, because metallics just look better over a darker primer. Hell, if you do it right and have a steady enough hand, you can just prime black all over, put the gold where you want it, and fill in the shoulders with the purple, skipping over the black base for the trim completely and just highlighting it.
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May 5, 2017 17:31
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Hey man, don't be down on starting to paint. I mean poo poo, you not only put paint to mini (which is more than I can say as of lately due to work), but it actually gets the concept scheme across as well. Hell, it doesn't look  either, which is a big thing for new painters (myself included). Suggestions: -definitely go get other brushes. Again, maybe not so much GW stuff, as it's fairly expensive, but for now I'd say even a collection of brushes from Walmart (or your equivalent) should be enough to get you started. Once you get the concept down, you should look into picking up the higher quality tools, but I wouldn't drop on kolinsky sable brushes when you're still getting basics down.-thin your paints. I still have a dry palette (one of the cheap-o plastic circle ones from Walmart), and it's a habit at this point when starting a new color to dip the brush into my water, put it on the palette, then take a brushful of paint and mix. Unlike the bargain Apple Barrel paints, most mini paints (Vallejo, GW, Reaper, P3) can be thinned really, really far down and still retain a decent amount of pigment. However, with few exceptions (mostly airbrush paint, I've found), paints do need to be thinned right out of the pot. Exactly how much depends upon the color, the brand, and what effect you're trying to achieve, but start getting into the habit of adding even one brushful of water to your paint before putting it on the mini. -more of a general thing to do, but start from the innermost areas and work your way out. That way, any mistakes you may be making on the inner parts (like getting paint where it shouldn't be) will be covered over by the rest of the paintjob. Just saves time, as opposed to going over the same part 5 different times because you keep accidentally getting paint from another section on it. -lighting issues: I've found that it's easiest for me to paint during the daytime by a large window, so that way I have natural light to work by. Other people may not be as Again, man, you took your first step,
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May 7, 2017 18:59
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Munchables posted:Thanks for the advice! I'm going to preface this with a small rant. I see a ton of GW stuff with edge highlights, and I'm personally not a fan. I'm a fan of the older styles, where highlights were blended into the previous layers, and it took time to make that poo poo look good. Nowadays, I see WHTV videos where basically everything is "basecoat, layer to get the color you want, edge highlight", and doesn't look right. Not to say it can't be done well, but IMHO it seems lazy. That being said... Edge highlighting is fast, and easier to handle than blending everything down. Especially when you have like, 20-30 of the same dudes just staring back at you, waiting to be painted up. I will say that you do have the right brush with the size 0 to make really decent edge highlights, but it definitely shows in your pics that you had way too much on your brush when you tried it. It won't kill you to wick away a little bit of paint on a dry paper towel, and rather than try to use the point of the brush, use the side of the bristles instead (at least for the pauldrons). You have a lot more control over the brush that way, so it's easier to do thinner edges. I do also see that you use a wet palette. Good on you, because those definitely help in keeping paint workable for a significantly longer period of time than dry ones. Just be careful that you're not overthinning the paint past workability. You want thin paint, not watery, runny paint (which again, dabbing a little excess water away with a paper towel won't hurt anything). quote:I'll grab a fine detail brush next time I go out, and I'll grab some silvers as well. I didn't do anything on the gun except base, because I wanted to mostly focus on the marine himself, and in future I'll take the advice somebody else gave for my color scheme to put just the torso and legs together, and paint the arms head and pack separate. Nuln oil has come up a lot, so I'll grab that and I see leadblecher mentioned tons, is that the typical weapon silver? Another concern I had was the layer paints, I had a few of the whtv videos open, and in the 30k thousand sons, he uses the layer paint for edge highlighting, while in the layer paint video he uses it for raised surfaces. When I painted I applied it over the base paint, after the shading, and used the highlight paints for the edges. Was that the right way to go? Thanks a ton, sincerely, for all the help you folks have given me, because I really enjoyed doing this and it's sorta therapeutic to just sit there after work, put on some background videos, and paint some hams. Leadbelcher tends to be the base silver for a lot of people because for as much as I've ragged on GW-branded stuff earlier, they make a drat fine metallic paint. Admittedly, I haven't tried any of the Scalecolor paints, but those are apparently internet-order-only around here, where I can get just about anything GW, Vallejo or P3 easily. If you want to do silvers or any sort of candy coats, Leadbelcher's an incredibly good start. Nuln Oil, and Devlan Mud before it, are often referred to as "talent in a pot", for good reason. Very few colors (yellows, mostly) look bad with a black wash over it, and it will also help give definition and shading to a mini with little hassle. I personally use Vallejo grey primer and wash black over it once it's dry to pick out details, preshade the cracks and crevasses, and see where I may have missed any spots with the airbrush. Most silvery metallics tend to use black washes, too, as it's fairly neutral and can go with most paint schemes. As for the base -> layer -> highlight way you painted, that's perfectly fine. Sometimes you might want to go for a more muted color, and thus skip the highest highlight and just reclaim some of the washed areas with a layer, and that's fine too. It's all a matter of how high you want the highlights to be. Metallic purples (and really most metallic colors) can be done a few different ways. Easiest would be to find a metallic paint already pre-manufactured (I've heard Scale75 has a gorgeous purple and a good line of other colors, but again, no IRL experience here). Next, mixing a metallic medium into the paint (as mentioned above, Vallejo's is pretty nice). After that, there's the previously mentioned silver base -> purple glaze. If you want to get nice and fancy, but expensive (at least compared to paint pots), an airbrush and candy paints look phenomenal. mango sentinel posted:I've been rushing tonight so this guy is sloppy and gonna need tons of touch up but here's a WIP. ...Steel wool?  Bruh, no. Just no. Paint over that and just hit the areas where battle damage would naturally occur (i.e. chestplate edges, pauldron edges, shield?) with some leadbelcher on a fine brush. Check this out, and it should cover you, at least for the basics. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9u_ECGTNZY
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May 8, 2017 07:56
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Munchables posted:I need some stripping advice please. I've had my minis in a tupperware container of simple green for almost 2 and a half days, and the models I reeeeally need stripped only have primer on, but it's not coming off at all. Berzerkmonkey recommended super clean for stripping instead, so I might try that, but does anybody have experience with simple green, maybe I'm doing something wrong? The dakkadakka guide says to use metal brushes to strip after soaking, but I feel like that would really mess up the model, so I'm hesitant to try that. Thanks in advance! If you're in the U.S., I've found that LA's Totally Awesome (aka this poo poo right here:  ) works pretty drat well. What kind of primer and how thick it is on the mini will determine how long it needs to soak, but usually a good week will get rid of just about anything I've used, even weakening superglue bonds significantly. It's also safe for pretty much any kind of mini, whether plastic, resin, or metal, but it doesn't do a goddamn thing to green/brown stuff (which is a selling point, imo). Best part, that jug and other, smaller bottles, are easily found at dollar stores (specifically Dollar Tree in the northeast US).I will say, though, if you're using metal models, just cut the middleman out and drop then into straight acetone. poo poo's strong enough to eat through any paint and primer within minutes. However, it will literally melt any plastics and severely deform/melt resins (depending upon the exact composition), so unless you want some do-it-yourself plague marines stick to metal models only.
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May 11, 2017 04:04
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Munchables posted:Alright, I've transferred my models to LA's Awesome, and we'll see how that goes. In the meantime, tonight I painted model number 4 and 5, one was just a normal tactical marine, the other is this little guy: See, man? I told you, the more you practice, the easier it gets. With you posting each model you're doing, it's clear to see how much you've improved even in such a short amount of time.  As for scheme changes, it looks like you tried a colored kneepad on the stormcast powerclaw dude. I can see where you're coming from with that, but it just seems like a bad shadow in your pictures (which may just be a side effect of how you're taking pics, no big). What you could do, or at least what I'd do if I were doing a scheme like that, is to basically treat the purple as covering over the gold, like you have on your arms. I spent 10,000 years in paint just to show you this:  Yeah, it does cut down on the gold a little bit from the original scheme, but it keeps the purple on the appendages you've already established, and it gives you something to do with the legs other than "gold all over".
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May 12, 2017 15:04
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MasterSlowPoke posted:You'll be fine painting over the gold. Stripping is rarely necessary. Seconding this. As long as you don't glob the purple basecoat on in an attempt to compensate and cover the gold underneath, you'll be fine. That guy's legs might be a little shinier than his brothers, but I doubt anyone will even really notice or give a drat if they do. Holy poo poo, that's a ton of paints. I mean, yeah, you did just get a bunch of Scale75 stuff, but there's way more there than that. I don't even think I have a third of that in actual mini paints. Thinking about it, I don't even know what I'd do with that many outside of painting with them, obviously.
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May 13, 2017 03:11
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Question for the airbrush guys. I'm about to get some time to actually put paint to models, and I figured I'd want to do some zenithal priming, something neat to take advantage of the fact I do have an airbrush. I do have a couple of concerns before I start though. The first being, I'm doing a bunch of Retribution of Scyrah Warmachine models and there's a lot of flat space between the various warjacks, armor, etc. and I'd like to shoot for a decent dark red-violet (i.e. P3 Sanguine Base or Vallejo Red Black or is it Black Red? One of the two). I do have Vallejo's airbrush thinner, but is there anything else I should mix in to the paint itself to make sure it's thin enough to see the highlights and shadows of the zenithal priming? Secondly, while there is a lot of open spaces, there's a lot of joints and other parts that I don't want that sanguine color. Now, I'm of the school where you start at the innermost gubbins and work your way out, but I don't think that'd work very well with an airbrush without extensive masking beforehand. For as much as it'd feel weird, is the easy answer just "suck it up and do that after all the airbrushing is done"?
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May 19, 2017 22:24
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Yeast posted:Hit it with a paint/flow improver/water mix - so when you spray on some test paper it sticks, but doesn't run down the paper. quote:This is basically the only answer. What you gain in speed and flawless transitions, you will have to accept that you'll be going back more than if you had only hand brushed.  I kinda expected that.
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May 20, 2017 02:40
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Yeast posted:Honestly, I've tried about 4 different products, and nothing comes close to Vallejo flow improver. It's a game changer for airbrushing. Cool beans, I'll hit up one of the local hobby stores for that. Thanks.
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May 20, 2017 03:23
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Solemn Sloth posted:I'm getting back into this for the first time in a long long time, and had never really taken the painting aspect seriously at all before. Nuln Oil, like Devlan Mud before it, is Talent In A Pot™ for a reason.
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Jun 5, 2017 10:22
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Pierzak posted:Is this the same table that recommends VMC Russian Uniform (a bit olive-ish but very much green) as the closest equivalent to PP Greatcoat Grey (bluish mid-dark grey)? How can you gently caress up those two with a billion greys in the VMC line is beyond me. Yeah, there's a few weird equivalencies on that chart that haven't been really addressed. I will say that particular recommendation comes directly from Vallejo, which is why it's weird that they don't really match that well. From what I can gather, that whole page isn't particularly well-maintained, considering the brushthralls link on the bottom of the page redirects to a site that my adblock and antivirus both immediately twigged out on. Personally, I tend to use this spreadsheet here, with the dakkadakka chart as backup. Sure, it doesn't cover washes or metallics (which I do understand, but drat if that isn't something I could've used before settling on a paint scheme), but it tends to give a decent point of comparison across a bunch of different companies. It does seem to have been made a while ago, though, as (for example) I've found that Vallejo Model Color Black Red (70.859) is just a hair off of Formula P3's Sanguine Base. Like, BlackRed is just a little less purple, but IMO you'd need to be a machine to add the minute little bit of extra purple without going overboard. So yeah, take it with a grain of salt, but it's a little more up-to-date than the dakkadakka chart at least.
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Jun 18, 2017 05:07
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Nebalebadingdong posted:I've got a set of these arriving in the mail this weekend: Just sayin', but Mr. Skeltal in the middle with the scythe reminds me of the old skelemans from HeroQuest:  Not that that's a bad thing by any stretch of the imagination. Hell, given the scale, it might even be able to fit on the board, base and all, with little hassle. Now you got me thinking about that...
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Jun 23, 2017 08:49
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So after running my mouth in this topic for long enough, I figured I might as well show off some work. Had to borrow the little bro's cameraphone, since I own neither camera nor phone, so apologies if they're not the clearest pics. I'd like to add a little color to the various metallic orbs and staff, but I'm not sure where I want to go with that.  In the meantime, she's been glossed up, and once I get color on the metals I'll dullcote, re-gloss the metals and call her done.     Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Edit: christ these things are a mess all blown up Aniodia fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Jul 12, 2017 |
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Jul 12, 2017 16:36
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Harkano posted:also need to somehow do a really straight line of red on the head for the Lt marking Micron pens work some crazy witch doctor voodoo magic, man. 
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Jul 14, 2017 04:34
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Bistromatic posted:I've been toying with making my own Dropfleet Commander bases for a while. The game tracks a good bit of information for each ship and the stock bases are okay for that but not great. I figure it's close enough to mini painting that i might as well crossquote it here Man, I wish people in my area played Dropfleet Commander. I've seen a bunch of neat ships in this thread already, and now you've got a really neat base design there too. Like drat, you've got a kickstarter-ready idea there, if you only had the means to mass-produce those bases.
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Jul 16, 2017 18:56
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rantmo posted:I should clarify, it's legal to possess and own spray paint in Chicago, it's illegal to sell it. Because of those kids with their graffiti. Ban's been in place since '92 and actually was upheld by the Supreme Court because why not? Apparently one of our Aldermen tried to relax the law last year to allow the sale to people 18 and over but I guess nothing came of it since I only just now heard about the attempt. what the poo poo one more reason to say "gently caress chicago". First "pizza" ( and I use the term loosely) that's a drowning risk if you pass out on it, now this.  don't mind me, just drunnkposting as gently caress
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Aug 7, 2017 05:00
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grassy gnoll posted:Am I cursed by exceptionally thin paint, or does it normally take a minimum dozen coats to get brushed-on white up to snuff? White's just really kind of a cunty color to get looking smooth in general, but a dozen coats seems like a bit much. Best way I can recommend to avoid this is to start with a very light grey (iirc Celestra Grey works well for basecoating), then work your way up to white highlights. The thing with white, as with black, is that it's an extreme color, in this case extreme highlights. You can't really get any whiter than pure white, so that needs to stay as the higher end of the highlights in order for the eye to register it as "white". Same with black and shadows, in that you can't get darker than black (without that vantablack knockoff stuff, anyway). You just need to walk that fine line between grey and white, and lean more towards that white side in order to not only have your white come across as white, but to retain the depth of shadows and highlights that (presumably) the rest of your model has.
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Sep 5, 2017 21:51
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Z the IVth posted:
Am I the only one that gets Andalite vibes from that?
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Oct 10, 2017 18:18
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Captain Invictus posted:Soon after the terminator was finished, my little sister was killed, and I never felt the desire to paint again. Someday I hope I will be able to, but we used to paint together, so it's particularly hard to go back to that. Holy poo poo, man. That's loving heavy poo poo to deal with. Is it something you'd mind sharing, or are you gonna keep it close to the chest? Either way, I'd at least try going to a therapist if you haven't already, as it's still something that's affecting your life enough that you're avoiding a hobby that you two used to share, and talking to someone (whether goons or a professional) can definitely help the healing process.
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Dec 28, 2017 05:03
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Captain Invictus posted:spoiler Spoilering for semi-offtopicness ...I'm at a loss for words. I've seen some poo poo, but I could only begin to imagine how you've managed to deal with something that horrific. I mean, I'm almost crying at my keyboard at work reading this. I can't even begin to fathom what you've been through. I know it may not mean much, but I sincerely hope you and your family can eventually find peace over this.
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Dec 31, 2017 00:55
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...Tell me that's printed out. PLEASE tell me that's a printout, or a decal, or something that's not someone actually painting that whole scene at that level.
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Jan 20, 2018 00:39
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Traditional Games: Miniature Painting - Boot-Polishing Tips and Tricks Edition
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Feb 26, 2018 20:53
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 Got me an angry elf spellcaster for Warmachine basecoated, and before I really get too far into things, I was wondering what color to use for the various buttons, buckles and other gubbins. Originally, I'd used a silver before, and that looked OK, but I'm not sure if I want to go with that again, or use another metallic like gold or copper. It's kind of an important choice, too, as it would not only be influencing how I go from here on this model, but also details on other elf models as well as the various mechanical underpinnings of the warjacks. I've already stripped and repainted once, and I'd really rather not do it again, so I'd like to not gently caress up the color composition too badly.
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Mar 3, 2018 00:27
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 13:18 |
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Aniodia posted:
Reposting this because it's been a week, and I suck so bad at making a choice here that I'm hitting some analysis paralysis, which leads to not getting the rest of the ridiculous backlog painted up. Unfortunately, I'm also pretty terrible when it comes to using stuff like GIMP to mock up a design, so I can't really even go that route. All I'm really asking for is someone with a better eye for color composition to give me a foot in the rear end in the right direction.
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Mar 10, 2018 00:53
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