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PRESIDENT GOKU posted:EDIT: What is a less expensive alternative to the I use a pair of $3 cuticle cutters from Walgreen's.
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Mar 16, 2015 12:31
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$30 diagonal wire cutters GW offers? Snap On makes tools that expensive.
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Ryoshi posted:The only thing I can seem to find is this, and I'm concerned about it being labelled a cleaner rather than a finish (also, it seems to be scented). I have a bottle of this under my sink but at least now I know not to do anything with my mans using it.
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Mar 24, 2015 04:50
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Iron Crowned posted:Nice, but am I the only person who's been drilling out exhaust ports on Warmachine models? I've tried once or twice, but so many of them are oddly shaped (or sculpted) that I just can't get them to look right. I'd love to get them drilled on 'jacks but again, I don't trust that they'd look good enough to risk it.
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Jul 1, 2015 14:20
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Moola posted:I'm probably gonna drybrush a lighter colour to create the effect of the raised mud drying, while the lower mud is still wet from puddles etc Your rocks also look like crushed peanuts which is contributing to the delicious look.
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Jul 20, 2015 15:45
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Does anyone have a good guide to using green stuff? I'm talking absolute, idiot-level, newbie stuff. I've got the Basius 2 pads coming (hopefully this week) and I've never really worked with GS so I'm really not sure how best to use it. I guess the real question is, do you mix it and let it sit for a bit before pressing into the mold (or applying to a model for gap filling since I've got some of that on my plate too) or is it best to start using it straightaway?
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Jul 27, 2015 17:41
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thespaceinvader posted:It starts curing right away, so leaving it for a little while will make it a little firmer and a little less sticky, but not much. Leaving it to cure for a long while will make it carvable/sandable, rather than mouldable which can be good for making weapons and such. Excellent, this is exactly what I wanted to know. Does that mean that for gap filling it's best to mold it as much as you can while it's still fresh on the model?
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Jul 27, 2015 20:47
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Also, CA glue plus greenstuff equals an excellent bond when pinning. I've done a tiny bit of that (poorly) and have some more on my repair shelf, including having to rebuilt a wrist on a figure so the hand and staff can reattach (going to try and get someone to do that for me since I have less than no experience or skill at sculpting.)
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Jul 28, 2015 03:01
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I finally got my Basius2 pads today and jumped right in to trying to make my first two bases tonight. It was a mixed result, I think. It was my first time trying to use green stuff to any meaningful degree and man, that stuff got all over my xacto knife and thumbnails, which I guess I'll get better at with time. It's a bit humid in Chicago tonight too, so I don't know if that's anything to do with it. I also had a tough time getting the base off the mold; I wet down the area I was aiming for pretty prodigiously but that doesn't really seem to be enough. What's a better option for that? There's also a little bit of green discoloration on the mold from the GS and I'm hoping that can be removed safely somehow/prevented in the future.
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Jul 31, 2015 02:26
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Super Waffle posted:Astroglide. Makes sense, do you wipe or wash it off before priming?
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Jul 31, 2015 02:30
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Drake_263 posted:Vegetable oil works, too, and is probably cheaper to come by with in large quantities. Dip your tool in it to keep the 'stuff from sticking to it. Well none of my minis are ever going to have lube on them, which is not something I would have anticipated ever needing to type, just the greenstuffed bases. I guess the core of my question is whether the generic, water-based lube I bought for this needs to be wiped off or needs to be washed off, and if washed if it's a soap situation.
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Aug 1, 2015 00:06
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I got around to my finishing first Basius base attempts today. The first one was a test for my Protectorate of Menoth army, I was going for a cracked, desert sort of look but I didn't quite get there: It wasn't a great impression from the mold, which played a part, but I think next time I'm not going to build up the intermediate shades of brown and will just drybrush Rucksack Tan over black to get the real contrast I'm going for. It looks pretty decent with the model on at least:  Still very much a work in progress mini The other base was way off from what I was going for, which is dry, cracked soil for my Circle Orboros army but that's not what I got:  It looks pretty good as basically stone and works on the model (which I didn't get a picture of because the sun was too low) but I'm not sure what P3 combination is going to get the sort of sun bleached soil I'm hoping to get. If nothing else I need the highlights to look more white than blueish like this. I might just need to skip the Coal Black drybrushing and just brush white on over the primer. Still, they're both plenty serviceable, which is what really matters.
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Aug 2, 2015 04:22
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Thank you Super Waffle for suggesting the use of lube on the Basius pads; it worked like a charm and even looks like it just evaporates off the pads themselves after the bases are removed. Still need to get a better handle on working with the green stuff, especially cutting the parts from their respective rolls, but I'm making definite progress.
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Aug 2, 2015 18:40
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Is there a secret to getting the yellow half of green stuff out of its plastic wrap? I got the GF9 stuff so each tube is in its own wrapping and the blue half's plastic rolls off just fine but the yellow has to be basically scrapped out of the center and then I still have to pick plastic out of it before I start the mixing.
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Aug 10, 2015 21:58
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Two nights ago I was on a painting binge and thinned the paint (P3 Sanguine Base) with acrylic flow release, as it dried and got used up, I added more paint and flow release and 48-ish hours later the paint is still a little tacky and super shiny. I've never had anything like that happen before, and as interesting as it is, I'd really like to not have to wait days for my paint to dry. What sorcery did I accidentally perform?
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Aug 14, 2015 01:05
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stabbington posted:Yeah, flow release is meant to be used diluted 10:1 with water. Huh. Look at that. I've only used it one other time and it didn't have that effect but the paint to release must have been low enough not to create soap.
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Aug 14, 2015 04:43
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Is there a good source of non-ribbon greenstuff other than the GF9 pack? I'm going through an astonishing amount thanks to my Basius pads and I'd love to be able to buy a bigger quantity.
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Aug 17, 2015 04:13
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Silhouette posted:Don't buy Kneadatite for stuff like that, just buy a tub of Magic Sculp on Amazon. It's epoxy putty, but you get a fuckload of it for cheap, and it holds detail just as well as green putty. There we go, that's what I'm talking about. Not cheap to ship it, but that's going to last a while.
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Aug 17, 2015 13:04
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Whoever it was that suggested using Magic-Sculpt for the Basius pads; thank you, thank you, thank you. It's so much easier to work than greenstuff and it looks like I'm getting sharper detail too. I can't wait to get these primed and see the difference when they're finished.
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Sep 1, 2015 04:11
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Bavius posted:Where do folks get magic sculpt? I want to try some for my basius pads now. I got mine through an Amazon seller called Artplace Art Supplies.
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Sep 2, 2015 12:28
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demota posted:I dropped a pair of super tiny rare earth magnets on the floor. I ran a roomba over the room, but it didn't pick up anything. I'm out of ideas on how to find them. I'm less worried about the cost of replacing the magnets and more about hypothetical future pets finding them, swallowing them, and getting injured. Take the container with the rest of your magnets and do a thorough sweep of the floor.
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Sep 4, 2015 21:25
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Since we're talking basics, how often, if at all, do you all wash dry palettes? I've got that standard round plastic palette and most of the cups, or whatever the term is, have paint in them and I don't know if it's safe to put paint over the dried paint or if doing so will tint the fresh paint with the dried paint. I also figure it's not great for the water supply to try and scrub old paint off a palette so what's the SOP here?
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Sep 15, 2015 22:18
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During a painting session over the summer, I decided to experiment with thinning my paints using acrylic flow release and nothing else, which basically gave me a tinted soap. Months later, the sections I thinned that way are still not completely dry; they're very glossy and a little tacky to the touch but the models have just been sitting on my shelf in hopes that chemistry would do me a solid and dry them out completely. I want to actually finish the models but I'd rather not strip them down and start fresh. I worry about just painting over the soap for fear of it sloughing off, I've considered putting some Pledge floor sealer or Dullcote on and finishing over that, but I have the same fear of it not taking. Any advice?
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Dec 18, 2015 14:05
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stabbington posted:Painting Buddha has been doing a video series on that very topic. You should watch that and give it a try. Ok, question about fundamentals from watching this. He's got is paints on a wet palette, I can tell that (and I can also tell that when I've used mine the paper was way too wet, which is good information to have) but what he is using to thin his paints that lets them sit in those nice, unmoving blobs that he can just dab at as he does? The few times I've tried to thin paints, it's gone somewhere between poorly to the creation of colored soap that will never dry  I use P3 paints, which don't seem to be that much thicker than what he ends up with so I'm not just blobbing paint everywhere, but what's the secret to doing it properly? Is it as simple as just a tiny drop of water? I've read through the OP section on thinning and the Reaper article therein, but whatever the Painting Buddha guy is doing seems like it's much simpler. I guess that's what I'm looking for, the super basic version.
rantmo fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Dec 20, 2015 |
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Dec 20, 2015 23:49
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stabbington posted:Sorry to take a while on this, have been off the grid for a bit. The only thinner being used in those videos is water. Mostly, they just put the paint on the palette unthinned, and use a damp brush to draw it out into a more usable consistency. The "missing bit" I guess is that the material he's using for the palette is a stack of specific weird German paper napkins or something that's strong enough to let paint just sit on it, but permeable enough to just let water through for thinning purposes when he presses down on them, which makes the way he makes glazes in those videos make a lot more sense. Thanks for this, that makes a lot of sense and explains what I'm seeing well.
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Dec 23, 2015 22:13
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crime fighting hog posted:Anyone who works with Privateer Press plastics: what kind of glue do you use? I use zap a gap on pretty much everything and never have problems, but for some reason the plastics from PP take forever to set and the bonds are weak. Should I be using something else? I use Gorilla Glue super glue and I've started using Loctite Super Gel, both of which work really well unless they don't Sometimes, they just refuse to glue and usually in a way where pinning is a serious pain in the rear end. I find the washing more important for PP metals than plastic, myself, but it can worth the extra effort
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Dec 27, 2015 05:00
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Lethemonster posted:They are all too small for me - I can't grip small things for a long time. *snort snort* Glue three corks from wine bottles together; plenty of size and extra stability for setting it down.
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Jun 1, 2016 12:29
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I switched from Gorilla Super Glue to Loctite Ultragel Control (regular Gel Control seems to work identically) and won't be going back if I can help it. For the Privateer Press plastics, it's loving magical, for their "white metal" it's hit or miss. Trying to glue a pair of arms to a model over the weekend took three tries each, the second arm also involved holding it in place for a full two minutes which I didn't love. Sometimes it feels like metals just sort of absorb superglue, which I'm sure is not actually the case but hosed if I can figure out what's actually going on. It also sort of feels like building up successive coats of glue does the trick sometimes.
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Aug 16, 2016 00:26
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I prime pretty much everything grey, I find it so much more forgiving than white.
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Oct 2, 2016 04:46
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Neurolimal posted:Time for a cringecheck: I still use cuticle cutters for sprues. Same. Actually, I use them more to shave mold lines off of Privateer Press plastics but they work on sprues reasonably well.
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Jan 5, 2017 22:17
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Can anyone here speak to the difference between Nuln Oil Gloss and the old, regular Nuln Oil? Is it all that different or is that just different marketing? (And yes, I know don't give GW money and I don't other than three of their washes because you take my Seraphim Sepia out of my cold, dead hands.)
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Mar 5, 2017 07:36
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I've got two of the full-sized and three of the mini ones from various Kickstarters, but I don't think they sell them anywhere. I also have several stamps by Happy Seppuku (pug fugly website warning) and they work really, really well. In some ways I like the rubber stamps better, though they smell pretty intense at first, it's easier to detach the base from them than the Basius ones and I've had tiny remnants of the putty stick into the details of the Basius pads, which hasn't impacted their use but which irritates me slightly.
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Apr 5, 2017 00:16
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As shown, a specific reference for an aggressively unattractive website for an excellent product.
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Apr 5, 2017 03:46
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Is that the sandable primer or another version? I'm in the market for a good black primer, I've got a good grey one I use for almost everything, but the black I've got sucks. It's a bitch to get spray primer because it can't be sold in Chicago so I can't experiment with different types like I wish I could
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May 15, 2017 01:33
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Lord_Hambrose posted:Yeah this. Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil do a lot of heavy lifting in this hobby. Yup and also Seraphim Sepia. They're all pretty magical even though they involve giving GW money.
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May 17, 2017 22:54
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Moose-Alini posted:Any good tutorials about caring for brushes? I seem to wear mine out way too quickly. Ghool has a good tutorial on that.
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Jun 18, 2017 20:06
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Ok, is there a secret to using this stuff: Because the first time I used it, I ended up with some very bumpy surfaces that I was able to work around. I figured that I hadn't given the can a good enough shake and/or was too close to the pieces being primed. This morning, I shook the absolute poo poo out of the can and gave myself more distance from the minis but I ended up with this bullshit:  I've got three figures that look like that, utterly unusable. They're all metal at least so I can toss them in some strong stuff and try again, other than the one that's based in the above picture which I guess I'll have to just scrape the rim back to smoothness, but this is really loving frustrating. Did I buy the wrong stuff to begin with or am I just using it completely wrong?
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Aug 7, 2017 00:15
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Well thanks everyone for the info, I think I'll actually be able to paint the front of that model without any problem as it looks fine, I think I'll try rub or scrape the worst bits of the back off and use a brush-on primer to recover. I've got a good grey primer, Mr. Primer Surface 1000, but I've had poo poo luck with black primer. Plus I live in Chicago and spray paint is illegal here and for some stupid loving reason that includes primer.
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Aug 7, 2017 02:44
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I should clarify, it's legal to possess and own spray paint in Chicago, it's illegal to sell it. Because of those kids with their graffiti. Ban's been in place since '92 and actually was upheld by the Supreme Court because why not? Apparently one of our Aldermen tried to relax the law last year to allow the sale to people 18 and over but I guess nothing came of it since I only just now heard about the attempt.
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Aug 7, 2017 02:52
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Zaphod42 posted:Can you order it online and get it delivered or is even that a no-go? That's how I get all my spray primer, the one suburban hobby shop that sells spray primer is basically inaccessible without a car.
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Aug 7, 2017 04:50
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 00:13 |
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Zaphod42 posted:Just get some proper GW primer or at least some Tamiya stuff from amazon then. Well I'm not going to give GW money for primer, I don't even like giving them money for washes (but I do because dammit those are good washes) and it's not about trying to be cheap on primer, it's about not having found a good black primer combined with not being able to easily try a variety of it.
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Aug 7, 2017 12:41
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