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Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


For anyone who's wondering, I switched GPUs briefly in my W10 machine the other day (testing a part) and it didn't see this as a significant enough hardware change to invalidate my install. They were both AMD Radeon cards though and I don't know how ruthless it is with hardware IDs.

I'm doing a for reals upgrade to a 960 in a few weeks so fingers crossed it'll be fine with that. Has anyone been through the license transfer process yet? I never did it on W7 despite a full rebuild, I just dismissed all the notifications and after a week or so of no sign-ins from my old machine it automatically transferred over.

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Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


Jewel Repetition posted:

What's the verdict on Windows 10?

Windows Ten Is Okay.

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


I don't think so:

quote:

Can I reinstall Windows 10 on my computer after upgrading?

Yes. Once you’ve upgraded to Windows 10 using the free upgrade offer, you will be able to reinstall, including a clean install, on the same device. You won’t need a product key for re-activations on the same hardware. If you make a meaningful change to your hardware, you may need to contact customer support to help with activation. You’ll also be able to create your own installation media like a USB drive or DVD, and use that to upgrade your device or reinstall after you’ve upgraded.

The "contact customer support" route is how it worked if you needed to transfer your 7 licence so I assume it'd be the same here.

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


A FUCKIN CANARY!! posted:

Except when you moved 7 around and had to activate by phone, there was always a key involved. In the case I'm wondering about, the hardware profile has changed and the installation has no key associated with it, so it seems like you'd be asking Microsoft to activate you on the honor system.

There's a giant discussion on the Microsoft Community site about this and nobody seems to have a straight answer on whether your current retail license transfers somehow or you're just getting a freebie activation that's tied to the hardware forever.

I'm wondering if they tie the hardware ID to your Microsoft account or something.

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


Upgrade and install is your only option as far as I know, the free upgrades don't have keys associated with them.

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


Sininu posted:

Enter this to the address bar and set it to disabled
chrome://flags/#hardware-media-key-handling

I had this as well and it was annoying, but never stuck in my head long enough to ask. So thanks to you both, for asking and answering.

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


Vanagoon posted:

You mean like the "Your files are exactly where you left them" thing from a few upgrades back?

I wasn't worried that Windows had hosed with my files until I saw this message.

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Building a computer for my son this weekend. He saved up 3 years worth of Christmas/Birthday/chore money to buy all the parts and he's pumped. Totally forgot to buy Windows. What's the cheapest way to get 10? Newegg has 10 Home OEM for $110. Is that really the cheapest way to get it? I see the OP says you can get it for $80ish but doesn't provide a link.

Brown_Thunder in SA Mart will sell you a W7 key for $25 that can be used to upgrade to 10.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3768345

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


mystes posted:

Why would you buy this when you can get a windows 10 pro key for $5 off of ebay?

OP seemed dubious about a $5 key off eBay and the goon seller at least has a proven track record :shrug:

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


I've been trying to get HDR working on Windows and after a lot of experimentation I think I've got it sorted. The only issue I currently have is that after watching fullscreen SDR content it seems like Windows doesn't properly reinitialise HDR - it's either really dark or washed out. The weird part is that opening display settings immediately fixes the problem - I don't have to change anything, the second the window opens it pops back to normal, so I guess Windows just isn't checking its settings after the SDR content is closed?

My setup is:

Zotac 1060 6GB
Displayport 1.4 connection
Benq EL2870U monitor
HDR on in Windows
Colour settings are RGB, 10 bit, full dynamic range

I also stream the desktop to an Nvidia Shield TV using Moonlight, but there's no additional issues there.

Ideally I would prefer to have HDR off in Windows and let HDR content toggle it on when need but it seems like most games require it to be on in Windows in order to work.

Based on my experiences so far I'm prepared for the response to be "HDR in general and on Windows in particular is a gigantic goddamn mess, good luck" but I thought I'd ask and see if anyone has any ideas on why it's happening and any possible ways to resolve it.

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


Any idea how to fix things if Windows doesn't acknowledge a plugged-in device in any way?

Background:

Until recently I had a Steam Link for in-home streaming with a wireless 360 controller and adapter (both official Microsoft ones) which worked fine. Last month I decided to upgrade a little and got an Nvidia Shield TV and Xbox One controller, because the non-pro version of the Shield doesn't have a USB port and does everything via Bluetooth. I decided to take the old 360 controller / adapter and use them with my PC for the rare times I want to game using a controller at the PC.

Except Windows doesn't acknowledge the adapter when it's plugged in. Device Manager doesn't show it at all, even as an unknown device (I've checked with show hidden devices on as well). It seems like Microsoft did something that broke compatibility with Windows 10 as I've seen others reporting similar issues, but all of them had the adapter show as an unknown device in Device Manager that they can apply drivers to.

A hardware issue seems unlikely as the adapter worked fine plugged into the Steam Link. Maybe this is Windows telling me to get a new controller but I'd prefer to get this one working before buying more kit!

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


AlexDeGruven posted:

Tried other ports?

I have a USB NVMe drive enclosure that only works on USB 3.1 ports on my system. Any other port and I don't even get the new hardware bing when I plug it in.

Yeah I've tried all over, front and back. No issues with any other devices in those ports.

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


BaronVanAwesome posted:

Like specifically the code is for SimCity?

They specifically added code to Win95 that changed how Windows allocated memory if Sim City was running, because Sim City was written for 3.x which handled it differently. No idea if that code is still part of Windows but I wouldn't be surprised if it was, you still can't name a file "con" or "nul" after all.

Here's a write up about it:

https://www.joelonsoftware.com/2000/05/24/strategy-letter-ii-chicken-and-egg-problems/

quote:

Jon Ross, who wrote the original version of SimCity for Windows 3.x, told me that he accidentally left a bug in SimCity where he read memory that he had just freed. Yep. It worked fine on Windows 3.x, because the memory never went anywhere. Here’s the amazing part: On beta versions of Windows 95, SimCity wasn’t working in testing. Microsoft tracked down the bug and added specific code to Windows 95 that looks for SimCity. If it finds SimCity running, it runs the memory allocator in a special mode that doesn’t free memory right away. That’s the kind of obsession with backward compatibility that made people willing to upgrade to Windows 95.

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


I got a Brother HL-L2350DW a couple of years back to replace an old HP inkjet / scanner monstrosity, and so far it's just worked. No idea about the driver situation but I've pushed jobs wirelessly from phones, tablets, PCs etc and it's never had an issue.

To contrast the old HP one would eat jobs roughly one out of three times (even with a wired connection) and then you had to repeatedly try to clear the job from the print queue because otherwise it would suddenly find it at 3am and rumble into life. About ten years back I was living with flatmates so my PC was right next to my bed and the first time it did it I had no idea what the gently caress was happening.

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


hooah posted:

Night Light seems to have gotten stuck to "on" on just one of my monitors. Toggling the button off and back on doesn't seem to help. What could be causing it to a) be stuck and b) stuck only on one screen?

Does the monitor itself have any kind of filtering options that might have been toggled on? My monitor's a cheap Benq one that has some BI+ button that auto adjusts colour / brightness based on ambient light in the room

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


Fallom posted:

Using Edge and Bing got me a $25 Taco Bell gift certificate

I have a game pass subscription that's basically running in perpetuity off Microsoft Rewards points. I'm sure Microsoft will make it impractical to do that way at some point but for now I'm enjoying the free games.

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


doctorfrog posted:

Same. Cept mine’s from 2013 (hold together little friend). I wonder though, are even budget cards affected? Probably. Crypto is a stain.

The entire market is wild from top to bottom right now. I recently looked up resale value for an old 2GB 960 I bought for £150 in 2015 (with a free copy of MGS5!) and there were completed ebay auctions for over £100. If I'd sold it six months ago I probably could have gotten more than the purchase price back.

In the end I gave it to a friend who was still using a 660Ti

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


My suggestion is to get a friend willing to lurk stock discords and get their hand me down card

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


Internet Explorer posted:

Pretty sure this is too long. If the thread wants to come up with something a little shorter/wittier, I'll be happy to change it.

Windows 10: I don't need these security features, right?

Windows 10: I know what I'm doing

Windows 10: regediting ourselves out of self inflicted problems

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


Fun mystery here - can anyone figure out why Windows thinks my gigabit connection is a 100Mb one when it wakes from sleep?

The PC is connected via powerline with every part of the connection being gigabit rated, and on boot Windows correctly shows the connection as gigabit and gets about 350-400Mb on speed tests. However if I allow it to go to sleep and wake it, Windows thinks the connection is a 100Mb one and throttles it accordingly. Is there some setting I can change that'll stop it doing this?

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

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Yeah it's Realtek. Stop loving up my computer, crab!

There was a setting for "WOL & Shutdown Link Speed" which looks like it reduces the speed of the adapter when in hibernation. I've set that to "not speed down" just in case Windows was struggling with increasing the speed again after it woke up and a quick test of manually putting it to sleep seemed to work. We'll see if it still works when I do wake on LAN.

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Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

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It seems to be working for now, so the crab and I have reached a truce

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