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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Sorry if this is out of place for the thread but I just bought a couch and I'm wondering what product to use to protect it. It's polyester or something, not leather because my cat would destroy a leather couch. Is scotch-guard the tried and true solution? Sorry the only photo I have of the couch has the price in it. Not intentional and not really that much for a couch apparently as we saw some that were over $20k.

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Yeah I'm not expecting scotch-guard to protect against the cat just other normal spills or whatever happens to couches.

The place I bought it from wasn't going to give any formal advice on products to use because they wanted us to buy their 5 year warranty (no thanks). They did say they didn't know of any other products in the space so I guess it's all good.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Sirotan posted:

I really dig the look of the wires. I put picture rail up everywhere and love it. I bought a crimper and some steel cable to give things a more modern look.

Just got these framed and put up this weekend:



And in plaster chat, I have the best of both worlds imho: sheetrock with a plaster skim coat on top. My walls are about an inch thick.

Looks great, did you know about this?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/biodivlibrary/sets/

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

SA Forums Poster posted:

How do I install a window A/C unit like this:
https://www.costco.com/midea-12%2c000-btu-cooling-inverter-window-air-conditioner.product.100849391.html
In a window that slides open horizontally like this:


Don't do this unless you're comfortable and 100% sure your AC unit isn't going to drop out your window where it could easily kill someone, but here's what I did previously:



I just put a 2x2 along the top L-channel thing so that it would be braced on either side by the window frame, and actually drilled + screwed the left side of that 2x2 into the metal window frame to ensure it wouldn't shift.

Measured the space above the unit and the width of the groove on the outside edges to determine the dimensions of blanking plate. This would be best if it was acrylic but I just went with some fibreboard that had some kind of paint or protective sealant on the outside face. I screwed some extra cutoff piece of the 2x2 into the blanking plate so that I could toss some screws in the top of the blanking plate 2x2 and the L bracket 2x2 and use a hair tie to keep the board firmly in place (because I liked to remove it when it was nice out).

The whole thing is sitting on foam to isolate it a little from the windowframe to minimize the vibration.

e: Just so I don't lose face here in the home thread, that was a rental apartment which is why the sill/frame is in such poor repair.

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 18:39 on May 16, 2022

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Sirotan posted:

These are pretty cool, though my birds are not particularly accurate depictions. :)

Yeah not all the images drawn by male turn of the century explorers at that page are particularly accurate either. Spoilered for mild NSFW which I've pixelated out.:






There's some other real fantastic ones in there that I'm also apparently not allowed to print and put up in the living room or entranceway.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Sorry to spam the thread, it's only because I just moved.

One of the bedroom doors is rubbing at the far side, on the top. The hinges are properly fixed to the door and the doorframe. The top part of the doorframe is out of square and comes down about 1/8" on that far side. The door is square in the doorframe in all other dimensions.

It's a solid wood door. Is the right move here to take the door off, cut it so it's parallel to the top of the doorframe, paint, and reinstall? This is a concrete condo that was reno'd in 2015, the door moulding/frame would be from that time. I'm not really willing at this time to reframe the doorway, and I'm more than happy to replace the (cut) door in the future if I decide to undertake that. For now I'd just like the door to shut properly and have even gaps.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Phil Moscowitz posted:

You can usually sand/grind it down so the door fits I would think.

I don't have a belt sander so it doesn't seem like an option.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Motronic posted:

I wouldn't use a sander for that. If it was close I'd be using a wood plane. It's not only a hell of a lot cheaper but doesn't make nearly as much of a mess in what I would presume is finished space.

There's a cool communal shop in the parking garage area, I was going to take the door off, bring it down the elevator to the shop, clamp a guide piece of wood along it and use a circ saw to make the cut. Then bring it back up, test fit, then back down for paint.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

BonoMan posted:

It was a rental for 12 years. The owner is a realtor who decided to do a full reno and sell since the market was hot.

We're definitely going to do an inspection, but like Motronic mentioned, it's destructive and we have to do it after we buy the house.

The catch? Our $30K in Due Diligence.

If we decide to walk away now, we lose $30K.

Did the seller misrepresent the exterior as being stucco and not EIFS or did you come to that conclusion? If it was falsely advertised maybe you can get out with your $30k.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Sorry to get back to my dumb doorway stuff which now seems like quite a small matter relative to the stucco stuff - sorry goon.

I put a sock over a deadblow and gave some upwards motivation to the top of the doorframe, which moved it probably 1/16" up and the door now shuts properly. I didn't mention it before but these walls are steel stud and there's actually also a water sprinkler right above the center of the door so I'm reluctant to drive a 3" screw up into that space without knowing how it was framed out with the steel studs and where that water line might be.


As you'd expect I now have some gap in the doorframe:





Is the process to clean it up with a scraper, sand if necessary, apply some caulking, and paint it?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

The Dave posted:

I really like what I see from the sprayed cork exterior application, but it seems to be a largely Canadian thing right now. They advertise it as a good way to insulate from the outside, as well as encapsulate stucco/masonry.

The way this stuff always goes I don't know that I would trust anything that hasn't been around for a long time.

I knew it when I bought about a month ago, and the P.O. paid for the special levy already, but the exterior of the tower I live in is getting redone this summer, looking forward to Hot Scaffold Summer I guess.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Who exactly does homedepot have installing their carpet? Seems like the kind of thing I wouldn't want done by a high school summer student.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I don't appreciate how any shower curtain is going to be able to effectively keep water in that shower. I think that's designed for a sliding glass door, it looks just like one of my bathrooms, comes up only an inch or so because it's expected to have a glass door there.

So with that in mind is it aesthetics you're chasing? Maybe you could hem the curtain up?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Inner Light posted:



Anyone have any LiFe HaCkS to clean the window to the left of this screen door, or to remove the screen door? Window cleaning and anything window related is unit owner responsibility here.

The problem I see if there are screws on the right face of the door at bottom to loosen the wheels, and I can access those, but there is no way to access the screws on the left face of the door from the inside. Thefore I don't think it is really possible to remove the screen door from the inside at all, you'd have to get at those screws from an outside work platform or something?

I have quickly learned I dislike juliet balconies in practice!

Another fun fact, if I ever need to replace the windows/door, a contractor said because of the way the railing is attached to the masonry the only way to do the job is to saw the railing in half to remove/destroy and replace it with a new one when done.

Can't you just hop the railing to the left and wash the window normally and then scoot back over? I know not all goons are of scooting dimensions or age but that one just seems not too much?

Alternatively look for things they make to clean car windows (from inside), like little extension arms with a microfiber pad at the end.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Queen Victorian posted:

That's one of those retractable roll up screen doors, right? :ohdear: Because otherwise if it swings out and promptly hits the railing then how the hell do you actually properly utilize the French balcony if you can't have the doors to it properly opened up? And clean the windows?

There are all sorts of cleaning tool sets/systems where you can get an extender pole and attach all sorts of stuff like scrub brushes, dusters, and squeegees. I suppose you can get one where you can articulate the angle of the tool so you can reach over/past the screen door and clean and squeegee the glass.

I'm reminded of the time my sister, while living in a ninth floor apartment, tried to clean bird poo poo off the outside of her window (the window washers has just been through and wouldn't be back for a while), realized how dangerous it was, went to write a note explaining that if she was found dead at the base of the building it was because she fell trying to clean the bird poo poo off the window and that it was NOT suicide, and while writing it, realized how insane it sounded and called a friend over who held onto her while she reached out and cleaned it. I suppose she also could have picked up a scrubber tool with an extension pole.

When I was in university dorms, the sliding windows were close to the shared wall and the common prank was to open your neighbour's window and climb onto your windowsill, reach out and hop your way into their window, turn their CRT monitor on it's side, then go back. This was 3 floors up but I'm sure it happened in the top floors too.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

actionjackson posted:

there's wood paneling in the shower??

Ever been in a sauna? Cedar is naturally rot resistant but yeah it does seem pretty wild.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Man I could read this stuff forever, I love Scandinavian styles and influence. Thanks for posting. From here in Western Canada that's mostly stuff I've never seen.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

actionjackson posted:

after using PB blaster on my door locks and gel-gloss on my cultured marble vanity top, I definitely have many types of cancer

Don't forget to Scotchgard also! Just did my sectional.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Any literature that supports radon being a risk? Not doubting just curious.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Tiny Timbs posted:

Bet it looks like poo poo after a few months of use

You clean it with only soap, it gains a new finish called ståinlëss.

Jokes aside that's so cool. I get the impression the average age of the homes in Scandinavia is like 5 times that of here in North America where it's mostly new developments etc. Is it not common to have a backsplash that runs all the way up to the kitchen cabinets?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Inner Light posted:

Lol dunno where you live but in some large metros the norm is 100 years old, not new development. I live in a 20 year old concrete floor condo but it has no backsplash. I am debating adding one but I don’t cook much so far and what I have cooked hasn’t been hard to clean off the painted wall if it splatters :shrug:

Here you go, this my little kitchen: (since then new faucet + fridge)



drat those floors look good. I'm in Vancouver (suburb), my 23 year old 2br condo was renovated in 2015 with the backsplash and all that. Doubt it had one before.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Inner Light posted:

Thanks for saying so! That is realtor photo magic. The floors are generally OK, they are builder grade engineered wood from 20 years ago. There is some poorly repaired PO liquid damage in a highly visible area in the living space unfortunately, and the top coating is wearing/flaking away in several areas, but those are not noticeable unless you look close.

Liquid damage:

The condo is 100% wood flooring so a sand/refinish job is going to be at least $5k, I highly regret not doing it before I moved in. And, it is tough to decide whether to refinish vs. replacing, but the wood company that came over said they are confident they can be sanded once.

Also I assume sanding/refinishing with a clear top coat will heavily change the color of the floor, and the whole condo, so that is a bit unnerving since I don't know what it will quite look like afterwards.

Well they'd be sanding it down and refinishing it so you can have it look however you want. You could point at a good area now and say 'make it all like that'. If you meant they'd just sand the clearcoat down and leave the stain, it still shouldn't look any different.

We have engineered floating maple floors here and the first thing I did was drop a bottle of white wine on the quartz countertops and it shattered everywhere, tried to get the wine mopped up ASAP but who knows. I'm relieved there's no smell.

e: to the goon providing the Scandinavian content, can you include the English pronunciations of the Finnish words? I'd like to say them to myself in my dark room thank you

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 22:13 on May 27, 2022

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

His Divine Shadow posted:

You can see in the photos, some of them are many decades old by the time they where photographed. I think they wear in nicely.

I think in a lot of cases, the tiles fill that function.

Yes sorry I was referring to the tiles when I said backsplash.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

peanut posted:

Stainless countertops around the sink and stove are default in Japan. The alternative is usually "synthetic marble" which is vulnerable to staining.

https://www.takara-standard.co.jp/product/system_kitchen/

(This is generally the only workspace counter in the kitchen)

Makes sense considering their bathrooms which as I understand it are designed to be wet/splashed everywhere with a drain in the middle of the room.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Harriet Carker posted:

Can anyone recommend baby's first cordless drill? I have no idea what I need. I want to drill some holes to put things like this up. I have never drilled a hole in my life. Do I need screw bits or drill bits or both?



Highly recommend this Dewalt 20v Max drill set.

I have it plus some other dewalt stuff and I'm very happy with all of it. I've worked construction for years in my past and this drill feels as good as anything I ever handled on a job site or in the shop. It has a clutch feature which is handy for quickly getting fasteners seated and ready for torquing down, has good LED coverage where you're drilling, just nice product for absurdly cheap.

e: don't forget that you'll also want a little set of bits as well as probably a matching bit holder and matching screwdriver bit set and this and this and this.

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 07:05 on May 31, 2022

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Verman posted:

I finally stepped foot into my local tool library today. Holy poo poo what a cool place. $50 suggested donation to become a member. They host classes on all kinds of topics, have a wood shop you can book for private use, lots of tools and other stuff. Yard, auto, general diy, etc. Super awesome place.



What country?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Inner Light posted:

Guessing this is tool 'library', meaning this is a private organization not anything government run. Like a 'maker space' which had their heyday a few years back. Also guessing it is good old USA.

I guess I'm surprised to see a socialist solution in the states. I moved about a month ago into a condo that has a communal workshop in the basement parking area and it's been fantastic.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Friend posted:

Digging out the stump of an old bush, I'm used to finding random blocks of concrete and old bits of trash buried near the foundation but this was just... :confused:



He swore he'd quit that life.. until everything in his life fell apart and he was dragged back in.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Mirthless posted:

If you're not planning to install it yourself, you're probably going to have to buy from whoever is installing the carpet. I recommend calling the three or four biggest local places around and get quotes until you get a real idea of how much this is going to cost. I just had three bedrooms done (about 450sqft of actual carpeted room) and it was $2500 total installed. YMMV depending on demand in your area and what the sizes of your rooms are and what's being installed.

OOC when you have carpet installed do they pull the existing baseboards and reinstall them after or? Just feels like that would add a lot to the cost but also would be kinda necessary to get it right, I dunno.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Thanks for all the responses, makes sense.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Toilet bases can have some clear caulk, as a treat.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Inner Light posted:

Ok thread denizens, feast your eyes upon one of my toilets

So, please tell me, if you owned this place or were looking at buying it, if this rates under 1. you would remove this and redo it properly 2. looks fine and you would probably not touch it / not give a 2nd thought 3. this indicates the owner was insane, run away?

Long story short a painter was here, I asked him to touch this up and I think he used acrylic + silicone which is not ideal, but am curious how much of a disaster it is.



I'd leave it.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

SpartanIvy posted:

I had a pair of these and they sucked beyond explanation so I ended up tossing them.

Not trying to be a piece of poo poo but were you pulling in the right direction? I've found these type of strippers suck if you'll pulling the wire the 'wrong' way. Maybe just me.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I. M. Gei posted:

Trip Report: Install guys came out today, we have new windows and everything went great









... except for ONE window where the manufacturer hosed up and gave us the wrong size window, AND it was the one window that had an A/C unit in it, AND nobody caught the mistake until after the A/C was removed and the old window was demo-ed AND installers had to reorder that window AND we don't know when the ETA is on the replacement. Install company has no idea how the fuckup happened, since the measurements are all correct in their system and were correct when they sent them to the manufacturer; the manufacturer hosed some poo poo up somehow and we are gonna call them and yell at them to give us a discount/some of our money back for loving up. In the meantime, we now have nine beautiful new windows and one bigass hole in our wall with plywood hastily tacked over it, but, on the plus side, these are really nice windows. At least compared to our old ones.

Try to get a copy of the email/whatever correspondance/invoice/etc they sent to the manufacturer as proof because I bet they hosed up and are lying to you :c

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Am I the only one who thinks the contractor just called Lowe's with the order and said the numbers wrong? You paid for a contractor to replace the windows, it's on the contractor to ensure the correct thing is bought for the project, no?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

nwin posted:

Nice! This is the one and only time I plan on drilling into the wall, so hopefully this doesn’t happen again. I think it was the lag bolts that did me in-I read that wires are supposed to be far back enough that you shouldn’t hit them with a nail or screw on normal occasions.

Drilling into the wall is nothing to be scared of, just need to take the normal precautions.

I would recommend you pick up a stud finder that also alerts you to AC current behind the drywall. You can also kinda intuit where wires might likely run based on where outlets are located but it's reasonable that someone would be unable to guess that correctly.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

It's better than the vomit yellow/green that's also on there. I dunno if I love either but it's your place you should do what keeps your marriage intact.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

BaseballPCHiker posted:

Anyone have any experience with those snap off type screws that go into floorboards and the joist to cut down on squeaky floors?

The wood floor right outside my kids door squeaks like a mother and I've thought about trying them but they seem a bit gimmicky and I have awesome looking 100+ year old maple floors I want to gouge up as little as possible.

That doesn't really sound like the kind of thing you want for the reasons you mentioned. I could swear I've heard of something that uses an expanding foam sort of thing that is engineered to firm up but not expand overmuch and bulge. I still would be pretty concerned about doing it in a heritage home.


I have 7 year old (engineered) maple floors maybe I'll hit you up in 85 years and we can reminisce.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Good work, looks much nicer.

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

devicenull posted:

Kitchen counter chat: Consider epoxy... we went with and it's been great. The only issue I've had with it is red 40 dye (christmas cookies ugh) seems to sink into it and become impossible to remove. This would of course not be a problem if you were going with black.

Appliance chat: Anyone have a good source for service manuals? I either need a service manual for a Kitchenaid KRFF302ESS01 fridge, or a wiring diagram for the W10317076 high voltage control board. The (nearly brand new) icemaker has stopped working, and poking around with a multimeter it seems to only be getting 2V AC, which sounds very, very low.

It also managed to completely freeze up the water lines in the fridge recently, so I'm thinking control board. Although I'm not willing to throw $300 at parts in it randomly.

I'd check the iFixit website.

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