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Stuff you're gonna want to replace - - all wheel bearings and seals. Cross your fingers that you don't have to, but don't be surprised when they are junk from sitting in contaminated oil/grease (and in the case of the top half of any bearing, sitting in nothing, rusting) for years. - check the differential. If the ring gear has been sitting in the same spot for years there's a very high chance that 2/3 of it is covered in bubbly blistered rust and the rest is buried in mucky emulsified solidified oil. My rear diff and wheel bearings on my MJ are loud as hell compared to how they were when I parked it, and it only sat for 5 years and was moved several times 3 years ago. If this happens, you can either disassemble it and wirebrush+brakleen it off and reassemble with fresh oil and cross your fingers for a few thousand miles before failure, or you can install a different axle, or you can stick it on uship and deal with it at home. - all ujoints are probably seized solid, or the needle bearings are a pile of rust and they'll fail within a few hundred miles - tires of course - the whole fuel system - the whole brake hydraulic system - remember that the brake shoes and clutch most assuredly are going to be asbestos on that beast. And all the brake dust in all 4 drums. And all the dust in the bellhousing. - the engine and head probably have flash rust and caked-on dust all over them on places you'd really rather not have rust at all. Plan on a new motor before moving it, IMO, unless you are REALLY lucky. - regrease the entire chassis/suspension/steering. Expect at least a few things in the suspension and steering to be seized solid or made out of rust that will fall apart when you've driven a short distance, leaving you with very loose sloppy joints. My truck, again, had zero steering issues in 2013 when it was last moved, and now has deathwobble and had 1/8" of play in a track bar rod-end that wasn't loose before. - at least pop the top off the transmission and make sure it isn't full of water, mud, or nests/mouse food storage, double check that the top half of the transmission internals aren't a solid ball of rust from the oil draining off after a few years, etc. Electrical is probably about ten wires in a truck that age. Starter, starter solenoid, ignition, left turn, right turn, headlamps, reverse lights?, brake lamps, maybe interior and dash lighting, horn. And only three of those actually matter if you travel during daylight hours and have a temporary or florida plate on it, and only one actually has to stay working while the truck is moving  As for tools, remember that this is a 50s Chevy... if you have 6 point wrenches and sockets in sizes 3/8" through 7/8", a jack, and two screwdrivers you can probably take the whole truck apart except for the pinion yoke nut and maybe some bits on the suspension that won't be in stock at any store along the way anyhow. SouthsideSaint said this already and he is right. My 5 ton could pull this if it was actually reliable enough but seeing as it's stranded me once and otherwise been broken for 5 of my 6 years of ownership and probably gets worse fuel economy than this truck, I'd recommend just driving the '51 instead. As for the split rims, you guys are nuts. If you really want to go full-on nuts and it has 20 or 16.5" wheels (does it?), a vast supply of milsurp rubber is available that would marginally fit. Anything from 36" to 54" diameter depending on rim size. I'd really suggest finding some modern tubeless wheels though, what lug pattern does a '51 6400 use? The old big six lug pattern? 8 lug? 10 lug? The pics look like old six-lug, but I'm not sure. That's not a very common lug pattern these days, but some cube vans and small MDTs use it still, or I think they do, it might be a different lug circle diameter. I think you're insane to consider driving that thing home any serious distance but I'll donate if you do, it's a good kind of nuts. It sounds like fun if you don't have anywhere you need to actually be in the next month or so and don't mind scrounging junkyards and parts stores every 50 miles, aka if you did this in summer 2013 when I was single and jobless with no one to answer to I would be offering to fly out and ride shotgun too.
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May 3, 2016 17:58
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Tommychu posted:Yep, and it's a decent 3 piece wheel. gently caress knows what it looks like on the inside but it's not a widowmaker by design at least. Better news, period-correct milsurp 11.00x20s (42"!) are dirt cheap ($150ea) from 100dollarman and milsurp 395/85R20s (46"!) are dirt cheap from any number of sources ($195 to $300 is what I'm seeing.) You wanted a war rig, right?   Seriously though, 7.50-20 is what, 35" OD, 7.5" wide? I can't remember how the section width works on the old tire sizes. 35" rubber for 20" wheels is super common due to bro truckers, though switching away from 3 piece wheels would probably be wise. What's the PCD on those? stovebolt has some info: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/wheels/ which indicates 10x7.25 lug pattern, 4.75" centerbore, hub-piloted. It also has a lot of info about finding new wheels. Dumb question, why can't you use stud-piloted wheels with conical lug nuts and forget about the whole issue, rather than all this goofy poo poo about making a hub adapter and keeping the flat hub-piloted lug nuts? Are the lug studs not precisely located on the hub-piloted hubs/drums or something? I've never really understood this, if everything is well designed and accurately machined either should work as long as the right lug nuts are used.
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May 10, 2016 16:21
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Did the same thing for the Justy recovery trip last year, except I left all the SAE wrenches at home and took a minimalist set of metric. Left my BFH at home too, I wanted to buy a new one and it was easier to buy one out there than wedge it into the bag. Still haven't used the IR temp gun I bought out there, either. I should find that and play with it some or at least make sure the two-cent bargain basement batteries it came with aren't pissing electrolyte all over the inside of the battery compartment.
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May 13, 2016 16:50
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Most of them have had the multifuel compensators removed by now and they are incredibly heavy, fuel hungry, gutless, unreliable pieces of poo poo. Put literally anything else in there. Source: I own one and want it out of my truck with all undue haste. Make sure you check if the transmission is salvageable before buying a new engine that fits it well. If the trans is junk that leaves you with no real reason not to slam a 350 and whatever random 80s cast iron 4/5 speed it comes with in there.
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May 16, 2016 13:43
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Tommychu posted:5&4s are heavy, hard to find and a horrendous pain to operate. The novelty would wear off quickly. I like the Eaton Synchro 6 in trucks like these. I know where I can get an Eaton Fuller FS5106-A for $250 with what's likely a #3 bellhousing. Not sure how we'd get it closer to the truck though, since it's in the northwest, is going to the southeast, and I'm in the northeast. Also it sounds like you guys want to make this truck into a pipe organist's wet dream.
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May 17, 2016 16:59
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Leperflesh posted:I'm just thinking of the likely scenario that a cop pulls over to investigate the shitheap truck being actively mechaniced on the side of a state highway at 11pm on a tuesday, and there's any legal paperwork that isn't completely above the board. The truck being from one state, all drivers being from other states, and any registration being from yet another random state. I suppose that cop is not super likely to check for matching VINs on engine blocks or whatever. I don't know, I live in California where you can't just randomly swap engines into things, and I'm also automatically leery of any situation where the "owner" can't adequately prove their ownership of the thing they're selling. A while ago I got pulled over in my GF's car (her license and registration being from Washington, her insurance already transferred to Massachusetts, though) towing Fart Pipe's trailer with CT registration, and my Mass drivers license and massive record of inspection tickets. They didn't impound anything but it sure did take a long time for him to run all our info. Fortunately she was in the passenger seat. I ended up with a fixit ticket for nonfunctional trailer lights. Should have known not to drive a sketchy looking (mismatched plates and the trailer wiring broke) vehicle during DUI patrol hours. When it took a long time we started getting nervous and all I could think was the cop looking at the huge pile of info going "something stinks about this and all of this is going to impound until this gets explained."
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May 24, 2016 00:03
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leica posted:How difficult/expensive is it to swap in some discs? Would be nice to have a couple of giant discs and calipers up front for better stopping power. Once it's home and can be measured, played with, partsbin engineered, and tweaked? Easy. In a field in Nebraska before a 2000 mile drive? Concerningly difficult unless someone else has done it and posted an incredibly detailed writeup. Hell, probably difficult anyways even with one, no telling what in the last 60 years has been hack fabbed, junkyarded off mildly compatible vehicles, or partsbinned at the factory/dealer that works fine with stock app parts but wildly conflicts with a disc swap recipe put together by some other dude with a theoretically-identical truck.
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May 31, 2016 03:55
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Leperflesh posted:To be honest, well-functioning drum brakes worked fine and still work fine for big vehicles. If I wanted to make the system safer I'd be thinking more along the lines of a two-circuit brake master/slave cylinder system, plus making sure all the parts are in good condition etc. You'll be driving the truck mostly unloaded compared to what it's capable of as a dump truck, so your brakes will probably have gobs of stopping power once they're in good condition. Remember that those brake shoes are absolutely 150% definitely asbestos and should be treated with all due respect. I'd probably get a set from a junkyard and have them relined, and then clean everything religiously with a pressure washer in someone else's yard*. * seriously though, you don't want the overspray or runoff full of asbestos dust anywhere either. It's just a lovely lovely thing to have to deal with.
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May 31, 2016 16:56
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Just get a 3M series 6000 or 7000 (iirc they take the same filters, I have a 6k) and use whatever filters you want that people say you will be fine with. N95 at home depot are expensive, I actually use P100 filters these days because they're smaller, lighter, cheaper on amazon, and apparently filter asbestos fibers and particulates better than N95. N95s sure are great for cleaning out bachelor fridges though. Some idiot (me) let some milk spoil REALLY BADLY once and with a 6000 mask and N95 filters, I poured it down the drain without smelling anything.
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May 31, 2016 23:45
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That Roadmaster has a completely different transmission (700R4 or 4L60e I think?) than the 1951 truck - and not only that it's auto vs manual. I'm not sure why the bellhousing is on the list? Regardless, it will fit if you don't care about your interior or suspension, for sure. Getting it in while it's hanging from an engine crane may not work out well due to the extra height. I do think an LT1 1951 truck would be awesome, just saying that the transmission stuff from the donor is probably irrelevant here. It also has a flexplate and a torque converter, not a flywheel. e: depending on your plans, you should grab the entirety of the wiring harness in the engine compartment, plus dash wiring and the fuel system and stuff as well. It's pretty light and if you want to keep the LT1 EFI, it will help a lot. If you're going to just strap a carb on clearly there's no point in doing this, though, and that's not really anything I'm going to argue over seeing as it's ancient dumb EFI and the truck was carbed in the first place anyways. kastein fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jun 1, 2016 |
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Jun 1, 2016 17:30
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haha, it happens. The issue is that the crane, chain hanging from it, and engine all together add up to more height than may fit in your car. As in, if the oil pan clears the floor, you may have to saw a hole in the roof so the crane and chain will go far enough forward to get the engine over the floor instead of just butting uselessly against the hatch gasket. This is where the "three or four strong dudes, a case of beer, and some hernias" method of loading becomes your best option. Unless you just lean a couple 2x12s on the tailgate and push/pull/slide/lift-slide it up them with a few people helping, that might work.
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Jun 1, 2016 17:44
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I stole that one from AvE, don't thank me Part it out. Roadmasters aren't exactly common in the rustbelt anymore. If the front and rear interior door cards aren't hosed (they're brittle old plastic) I might be interested in all 4 for my GF's roadmaster, hers are beyond repair. Not sure how much it'd cost to ship them or whether 94-96 door cards will fit a 91-93, though.
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Jun 1, 2016 18:02
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I'm hoping this won't be an issue, but double check crank flange offset from the BH face on the LT1 vs whatever V8 would have gone on the truck bellhousing you intend to use. I don't know if they will be the same, though I think the weird length ones are from the early 00s and are some LQ4s/9s not LT1s. Still, would suck to find out too late to do anything about it. Also, make sure that you know what combo of clutch disc (that one is 100% going to be asbestos or leather or something, fyi), pressure plate, throwout bearing, and flywheel will work with that bellhousing, that engine, and that transmission. As well as the starter motor - there was some flywheel diameter and starter ring gear tooth count variation over the last 60 years. Oh, check pilot bearing ID requirement from the input shaft on the trans, input shaft length (it needs to reach the engine, but not be too long), and the outside diameter of the pilot bearing, which needs to be an interference fit into either the flywheel or the crank end depending on how chevy set it up. All fairly simple problems, but they are far simpler if you think about them ahead of time so it all Just Bolts Together when you get there.
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Jun 4, 2016 04:44
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ExplodingSims posted:Perhaps we could, but this just seems like a good deal for what it is, since it'll provide other parts, like the radiator, appropriate hoses, etc for pretty much the same price. Just buy new... flywheels are cheap. Not worth dicking around pulling an engine or trans in the yard to get at the drat flywheel. Looks like a Sachs NFW1023 for a 93 K2500 with the small V8 has the right tooth count and is 56 bucks on RA, not sure it is the right one but prices are usually around that much for single mass cast iron flywheels. E: remember that flywheels are thicker than flexplates and you will need a new set of flywheel bolts as well. They are cheap too.
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Jun 5, 2016 17:02
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To muddy the waters further this just showed up, I believe it's local to me. I can pick it up next weekend if you can find a way to ship it to Nebraska for a reasonable price from a shipping dock in 01801 or 01550. Believe all it needs is a harmonic balancer. It appears to be TBI and have most/all of the sensors on it still so you could probably just grab a TBI ECU and spend 15 minutes butt splicing a harness together. It's dirt simple.
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Jun 6, 2016 22:56
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For the eventual permanent engine I'd say put the usual LQ4/LQ9 on your list, plus the L18, which everyone hates because it's apparently not as widely supported but is a monster 8.1L Vortec that makes north of 340hp/450ft-lbs stock in some cases. Came in a bunch of random poo poo, Avalanches, uhaul vans, medium duty box trucks/cabnchassis, etc. Check wikipedia for more info on that one. To get it home? Whatever is cheapest, bolts in easiest, and will make it 2000 miles, gently caress the rest...
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Jun 20, 2016 23:21
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ExplodingSims posted:Kastein gets it. Cheap N' Easy on the way, ridiculous when I have the time. I know where we can get an 8.0L V10 Mopar Magnum from a '96 dodge 2500 if you feel like coming by New England. It needs... an ECU, as far as I know, someone cut it out and most likely threw it on ebay. It's in a clapped out rotted piece of poo poo that hasn't been registered or inspected in years. 170-something on the odometer. Due to it being at the junkyard I most frequent, if I'm there when it gets sold, it will probably go for under $400, and we might even be able to test fire it before purchase. Add another $300 if you want the auto trans (you don't, seriously, you don't) and the tcase. Seriously though, the GM stuff I listed is probably a better option, more tunable, more aftermarket upgrades, etc.
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Jun 21, 2016 17:13
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ExplodingSims posted:Cost is the biggest factor as to why I'm not shipping. That and ADVENTURE! That and you need the tires anyways when it gets home, so they're essentially not part of the budget for the trip - buy it now, or buy it later, your choice.
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Jun 21, 2016 22:31
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freelop posted:13 should get the bus and drive it to the truck. It can be used as a base whilst making repairs was gonna say, the only way to make this adventure better is to involve two 50s trucks trying to make it cross country
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Jun 30, 2016 15:10
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Bonus points if you put the Jag in the truck and drag it all the way to Florida that way after stealing its engine, and then when you get to Florida put the 350 back in the Jag and a different motor in the truck and end up with two silly projects instead of just one.
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Jul 8, 2016 21:03
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sounds like you should put the seats from the van in the back of the truck for your ridealong mechanic and gunner.
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Sep 18, 2016 19:22
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No go on the bus engine, it turns out that a Cummins 6C8.3-275G is a natgas powered engine not a diesel  Still makes 275 horsepower and a whole lot of torque but I'll be damned if I'm going to spend several thousand on a motor, then try to ship it cross country with you fine gentlemen, only to have to rip out my entire fuel system and convert to a natural gas setup. Would make a nice stationary generator set if someone wanted to strap an 1800rpm generator head to it and hook it up to their natural gas supply line, though.
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Sep 21, 2016 21:39
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Why? It's not like decades-old obsolete jet engines are a controlled export item.
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Oct 19, 2016 20:00
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Building a functional jet engine that could even be considered worth putting on a military plane is actually many, many times harder than building a firearm of almost any sort. What I'm saying is put a GAU-8 in the bed of the truck and propel yourself back to Florida with 30mm antitank rounds. It should neatly solve the tailgater problem, too.
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Oct 19, 2016 20:21
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ExplodingSims posted:It's really not that bad. It'd be bearable if the weatherstripping wasn't so worn out it let wind in everywhere Aluminum foil tape over every gap that doesn't need to open. I love my nashua 324a speedtape
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Oct 25, 2016 13:55
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I've used that trick to remove truck transmissions (NV4500s out of V8 dodges, chiefly) and jeep transmissions and engines as well. Works great if things aren't really really really seized. Having someone romp on the clutch pedal repeatedly while applying a rubber mallet to the bellhousing closest to the seam to be split can help too. Just don't get overly enthusiastic unless you want to crack the BH.
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Oct 27, 2016 16:55
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Seat Safety Switch posted:We've started using ratchet straps to install Subaru engines now. I'm sure it would work for a big titty V8. I have more cut-out-of-junk-cars seatbelts than I know what to do with, because a seatbelt tied around the passenger front and driver rear intake runners on an EJ25 almost exactly crosses the engine's CG. Add one cheapo ratchet strap to the harmonic balancer for attitude control and they go in soooo easy. Seatbelts are also stupid strong... 4000 to 6000 pound rated depending on where in the car they came from. You don't need the seatbelts in the van anymore, aside from the drivers seat, right?
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Oct 27, 2016 18:22
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Find out what thread it is on the outside, find out what thread it is on the inside, buy a bolt with the outside thread. Drill a hole on the end and tap to the size of the inside thread. Thread in with loctite, cut off head if necessary for alignment. That's what I'd do anyways Kinda surprised the truck is a hydraulic clutch or even has a pivot - figured it'd be a mechanical linkage on a pivoting shaft?
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Oct 27, 2016 21:06
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Over here all pipe threads are tapered and use different thread pitches from bolts, sadly.Dagen H posted:It's the pivot for the release fork? Yeah, but every ancient truck (and all the heavy duty trucks I've seen) that I've been under has had a pivoting shaft going through the bellhousing and two arms off of it that actuate the TOB rather than a pivot ball. Was just confused by that. Like this: 
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Oct 27, 2016 21:43
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14 BAR RIFF posted:Yo assholes is there gonna be anything let for me Jesus The Uber preinspection before he starts hauling school groups around in it 
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Oct 28, 2016 03:54
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14 BAR RIFF posted:They march to the sirens call of an incredibly higher power. I was thinking more of this method of packing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EyX6rOimsc
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Oct 28, 2016 16:59
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Holy poo poo, I wanna go junkyarding with you guys, you know how to properly solve problems when removing parts.
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Oct 28, 2016 20:10
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Is that PS pump a P pump or TC pump? You will need to gut it to keep it from spraying everywhere, either that or run a shorter belt, looks like the ac compressor might need to stay as an idler and you may still not have enough wrap on the WP/fan pulley. If it is like a TC pump, it isn't super hard to disassemble and remove all the vanes from the pump then reassemble, then you can just loop the lines together and dump a couple cups of ps fluid in and it will be the worlds best lubricated idler pulley. I have never worked on a P pump though. And drat, making good progress. How'd you solve the clutch fork pivot issue?
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Oct 31, 2016 01:15
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ECU wiring shouldn't be too bad, isn't it a TBI setup? Rednecks swap that poo poo onto 305s and 350s and AMC 304s and 360s all the time and make it work. If you need help interpreting wiring diagrams and/or coming up with a splice list, let me know and I can dig into it, just need to scroll back and figure out what model and year the donor is. Also, a few things that I think are missing from your latest list: - mount radiator? Radiator hoses? You might have already covered this - fortunately with the weather how it is, I bet a fan shroud will be optional equipment - exhaust of some sort - fuel pump, IIRC you need like a 14-15psi or so fuel pump to feed a TBI setup. AKA, gut the van's fuel system (this may have been the plan already) - fuel lines - disable the PS pump somehow so the super high pressure fluid coming out the business end doesn't destroy the return hose and reservoir, OR find a belt path and length that runs the WP, fan, alt, and maybe - clutch linkage. Probably the game-stopper from what you've said in 14's thread - e: starter. Do you know what make/model/year starter you need to work with that bellhousing and that flywheel? - battery cables, this is easy What's the story with the fastback? I thought that was one of djdanno's hoarded cars. (my yard looks like his, but a lot uglier... I need to sawzall another two and two halves cars up. poo poo.) kastein fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 21:53
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It's not the permanent engine for this vehicle, right? Pretty much just to get it home, maybe leave it in there till you decide what you actually want under the hood? I would run the stock ECU and custom splice the harness, it's nowhere near as difficult as many people assume. You guys did pretty drat good given the distances, info you had to work with, and schedule, even if it doesn't leave under its own power this week. e: it looks like some companies are saying 13/16-16 not -14... http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-GM-Bellhousing-Clutch-Fork-Pivot,712.html Glad to hear the starter works out. I've seen that be an issue when we assumed they were the same so I try not to assume that anymore 
kastein fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 22:13
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doublepostin'... if it is indeed 13/16-16, some oil filters use that! So if you can figure out what cars use a Fram PH373 and pull the oil filter stud out of one, then booger it full of weld and weld the original ball from the old bellhousing into it at the right height, you can save this trip still! Alternatively it appears that adapters are available on amazon. Does amazon prime deliver in 1-2 days in that town? I can't remember what thread the original ballstud (heh) is, but if it's at least 1/2" diameter, buy that, drill, tap, done! e: 5/8-24 also available https://www.amazon.com/16-16-Thread...VY8NFR8RRMQKZ4X And it turns out it is 13/16-16, I found Dagen H's original post saying that while trying to find what your old bellhousing's stud thread is. Do you need a different throwout bearing and clutch fork to go with the different bellhousing? Just realized you might. kastein fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 22:32
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Jeeps are like dogs, if you wash them they will go looking for mud and poop of indeterminate origin to roll in. So just try and keep it fixed enough to run reliably but under no circumstances should you ever try to fix it completely. What I'm saying is replace only the plugs that are fouled enough to misfire and put the remainder of the set in the center console. What's current status on the truck? Any chance remaining of it leaving today?
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Nov 2, 2016 16:17
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14 BAR RIFF posted:Id also like to point out that while Im sure it was posted here and I missed it, i thought the dump truck was a "dump" truck stake bed. For anyone else who missed it, it's a hydraulic actuated actual loving dump bed with intact components and is the current side quest to restore functionality because MOTHER loving DUMP TRUCK YO Since he's not sure if the 350 TBI is staying in there, I would strongly suggest not loving with the stock gauges or wiring (less to undo later) for now... hell I'd just ziptie the van's cluster somewhere in the interior and run it via the same wiring it used on the truck originally. The dump bed working would be pretty awesome though, maybe gin up some ramps and stick the turdwagon jeep in the back as an emergency escape pod/parts runner?
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Nov 2, 2016 20:39
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Speedo won't be working anyway, unless he figures out a way to run the cable to the cluster. Not like it'd be capable of getting any speeding tickets, unless he finds a school zone on a steep hill. Tickets for impeding traffic might be another story... Speedo should work fine, it's the original trans to the truck so just leave the speedo cable going from it to the stock speedo and it'll work (as long as none of those parts are hosed.) That wasn't a challenge. It was me suggesting not dicking around with poo poo for little to no reason when it will only reduce the amount of original, unmolested things ES has to work with when building his project the way he eventually wants to. I dunno if he gave more specific directions, if he did, pay attention to those not me since it's his truck, but I'd be kinda pissed off if someone took it upon themselves to dick around with wiring that didn't need to be messed with to make the truck drive to Florida and makes life harder trying to restomod it how I wanted to in the future. Just sayin'.
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Nov 3, 2016 19:52
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If you do ratchet strap it for the duration, make sure the strap doesn't go over any sharp edges that can vibrate against it and cut through. If it does, put a piece of leather, radiator hose, or sheetmetal with folded over edges in between as a bit of a buffer.
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Nov 5, 2016 03:34
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