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So I've always just kinda had in the back of my mind that the WD red drives were the best for in-desktop use but now that I've looked into it a bit I'm not as sure. I'd specifically like to know from someone who has a WD black drive how loud they find it? My case is on my floor anyways under my desk but if the WD Black drive is so Application is as a general storage drive on my PC which will house mostly photographs up to around 1gb in size which I'll be opening/editing fairly frequently in PS/LR (might be doing this on my SSD before storing finished images on the HDD, not sure yet). I have a tb of SSD on the system already for my OS and programs/games, so the new drive would really just be for storage/backup. I know the Red drives are more for a NAS , this isn't something I'm really interested in setting up as I only ever have to access this stuff from my one PC and a NAS would end up sitting beside my tower anyways. Is a Red the way to go because of longevity and cost? Should I get a Black for the bigger cache?
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Aug 30, 2016 12:36
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HalloKitty posted:If you want a HDD for size, but you also want decent performance, don't pass over the Seagate hybrid drives, specifically the 2TB (the 4TB runs at a slower speed). You then get a fast 7200 RPM drive with an 8GB MLC NAND cache, which may help if you're frequently working on the same project. I don't think I work on the same project often enough to take advantage of the hybrid aspect of the drive. The way I understand it the hybrid drives are best suited to use cases where the same assets are being accessed with sufficient regularity to trigger the 'learning' of the drive to put those assets on the SSD. I don't think it'd be useful for me but I'm not an expert. I definitely don't want to go less than 3TB since these files are only going to get bigger and bigger.
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Aug 30, 2016 13:03
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:I just bought this at best buy. If it really has a SuperMulti DVD/CD burner and 6 USB ports as advertised I'd say you got a pretty amazing deal.
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Aug 31, 2016 04:32
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Smegmatron posted:Can someone double check me here. I'm pretty sure this CPU (i7-4970K) fits this motherboard (ASUS Z97-K). Yeah those are compatible.
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Sep 1, 2016 22:49
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If you have 4-8 threads running at ~4ghz you won't be limited by the CPU in most games. I have a 4790k running at 4.6 and I think I'll only upgrade once the benefits from DX12 make it worth it. e: Since it was mentioned in the post above I'm running a 144hz 1440p monitor. With a 980ti and the above CPU (both overclocked) I generally hit around 120+ FPS in graphically demanding games. I imagine when used 980ti's become available at good prices I'll just SLI them and take NCIX off my bookmarks. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Sep 2, 2016 |
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Sep 2, 2016 21:11
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If anyone is reading this btw and is trying to decide between a 1440p 60hz monitor or a 1080p 120/144hz monitor, I think the 1440p monitor is the way to go if both are IPS. The extra resolution really makes a big difference. If you're a CS pro then ignore me.
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Sep 3, 2016 01:53
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Neo_Crimson posted:Better yet, have it all with a 1440p, 100hz, G-sync! Ultrawide I do have an IPS 1440p 144hz g-sync monitor and it wasn't really worth the money over non-gsync since the g-sync monitor really only is noticeable at <60hz in my experience. When I do run games at 50hz or so to have the graphics turned way way up then the g-sync is great.
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Sep 3, 2016 06:06
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marauderthirty posted:That seems fine. Are they normally adjustable? It looks like this one is judging by the pictures. Just as an FYI you frequently find especially with newer processors that you can wind up using a much lower CPU voltage for the stock clock of the chip. They have to set a stock voltage which will work on all produced chips which themselves vary in quality due to manufacturing differences, so if your chip is average or better than average you can usually knock some mv off and have it run cooler. I've found with mine that I was able to overclock fairly well and reduce the voltage to below what Intel had prescribed for the base clock.
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Sep 3, 2016 15:36
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Anemone posted:I feel like I went a bit overboard with this build. I'm making a pc to run a Vive as well as capture output and do video editing for a youtube channel. Is there a way to shave off some cost without hurting performance below what I need? (Besides the phantom case which I probably wont get,but it is nostalgic.) Don't buy a non-IPS monitor - I think you'd be way better off getting an IPS 1440p 60hz monitor than getting a 144hz 1080p TN panel. Unless you're a really high level CSGO streamer the high refresh rate is absolutely not worth suffering through a 1080p TN panel.
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Sep 3, 2016 18:30
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Subjunctive posted:I just built a new machine from scratch (the wound from the cooler is still healing), and I'm having some trouble with it. This all strikes me as more of a mobo issue than anything else. I'd try updating the BIOS first and see.
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Sep 3, 2016 20:12
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Bob Locke posted:Hey all, I posted about a month ago with a planned build a friend put together for me, then never really did anything with it. I've been convinced to get a GTX 1070 so things have changed a bit. If you're wanting to game at 1080p you can save money and get a cheaper video card (970 even). If you just picked that monitor because you weren't sure what to pick, see my posts in the last couple pages re: a 1440p monitor.
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Sep 3, 2016 20:33
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Subjunctive posted:I left it unattended performing the BIOS upgrade (using the in-UEFI tool), and when I came back it was hung with the fans at max. It no longer appears to boot. I will investigate reset options. At this point I'd remove the GPU and disconnect any non boot drives to eliminate possible culprits and also safeguard those components if the mobo is really hosed somehow. Do you actually have 4 PCI-e SSD drives? There is a reset button on that motherboard you can press (and hold probably - look online). Something to check - people who are new to PC building often don't press the RAM all the way in. Make sure the sticks are actually seated properly all the way in - they should click in and the lever at the end should snap into place into the divot in the end of the stick. e: The other thing people do is incorrectly attach the headers for the power/reset/USB case buttons, something else to check. Let us know how the story develops! VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Sep 3, 2016 |
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Sep 3, 2016 20:43
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Anemone posted:I'm going with liquid assuming it's a quieter option, I think that's right? Liquid isn't necessarily quieter - it still needs fans on radiators to cool the fluid. Having said that I do think that an all-in-one these days is a pretty good purchase just for how maintenance free they are. Subjunctive posted:The RAM clicked; I'm definitely not new to building. Sorry - I wasn't sure your experience.
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Sep 4, 2016 01:37
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Subjunctive posted:I used the reset button with the same BIOS, and reset the CMOS, and got it booting (the filename needed is only documented via trial and error accounts on forums?). My DX:MD performance issues are resolved, at least. I'd try updating that BIOS again, or contact your retailer and replace the mobo.
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Sep 4, 2016 21:15
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Don't buy a $150 video card. It won't be good enough to run anything. Put that 300 aside for now, save a little bit more, get a 970.
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Sep 5, 2016 00:47
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Jesus don't buy a 7xx video card. If you can save up that much money you can save up for a couple more weeks and buy something that isn't going to be an immediate disappointment.
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Sep 6, 2016 00:19
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Potential BFF posted:I'm getting black screen resets when the card starts working hard (Black Ops 3, Battlefront). Temps on the card are staying under 80°C when it is under load which seems to be normal for the card, rest of the system is <50°C. Idling temps are under 40°C on all components. I haven't seen any of the screen tearing of artifacting that usually accompanies a heat issue. I checked a few calculators and a 550W PSU is cutting it really close for my system + the new card. Are you overclocked at all on the GPU? I've seen this happen when I push too hard and the clock fails. It doesn't have to overheat.
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Sep 8, 2016 19:48
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CharlieFoxtrot posted:I guess I should have watched a video of a full build because I seem to have done everything in the wrong order so far Just ask in here or PM me if you need any clarification on stuff. But yeah usually the ram and CPU/cooler are mounted to the mobo then the mobo is mounted to the case, then the case pins are attached to the mobo (power/reset/usb/etc) and then the drives and GPU/PCI-e stuff are installed.
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Sep 9, 2016 05:29
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goodness posted:How's case tech changed in 5 years? I have an antec 300 that is packed to the gills with the 290x and hyper212 cooler in it. What would be a good upgrade that is easier for cooling For cooling it's mostly just provision of space for radiators along the fan bays. Some have basements. Removeable drive bays were probably around 5 years ago. The grommets are nicer material and cable management is easier.
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Sep 9, 2016 08:26
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Hyper 212 evo would be great. Don't need extra case fans, hot air behaves as it would regardless of air volume in this context and is easily exhausted with a basic fan setup with an outwardly directed fan at the top and/or top rear of the case.
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Sep 11, 2016 00:01
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Banano posted:
A single 1080 won't be able to run most games in 4k maxed or close to max at decent framerates (it would run a 16:9 1440p or non-4k ultrawide to >60fps maxed on most games). Don't buy a dell monitor - they're nice but you can save a lot of money getting an acer/benq/equivalent. Upgrading from your current system would be mainly to go to a dx12 setup and to take advantage of the multithreading available on newer processors. Your current CPU would very certainly bottleneck the system with a 1080 in the mix.
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Sep 11, 2016 23:15
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Oxyclean posted:I've got an i5-4590 - and I've noticed the stock heatsink fan is a bit noisy under load - what should I look for in a replacement/aftermarket? Don't need anything elaborate, just something that will be hopefully quieter. And do I need to buy new thermal paste separately or should coolers come with enough? I would recommend a ~$35 cooler master hyper 212 evo, and yes buy a $5 tube of thermal paste (arctic silver 5), you should be reapplying paste every time a cooler is removed. Isopropynol alcohol on a paper towel is fine to remove the old paste.
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Sep 12, 2016 01:03
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goodness posted:I should probably reseat the cooler snd thermal paste after 5 years right? I'm trying to wait until Cyber Monday to upgrade my case and ram. Will be cleaning everything out then if I can make it. If it's working fine (ie you aren't having problem with temps) just leave it, use some compressed air to blow out the heat sink and you're good. Nerd autists will change their paste sometimes but it's really stupid unless you're having trouble in some way. e: Nowadays with nonconductive pastes it really doesn't matter if you add too much because the stuff that gets squeezed over the side of the CPU will just sit there not doing poo poo. Back in the day the pastes were sometimes conductive and could create shorts etc on the mobo beside the CPU. You basically need a pea sized amount in the center of the heat spreader on the CPU. You should spend more energy worrying about placing the cooler down evenly than how much paste you're using.
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Sep 12, 2016 02:00
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Aesculus posted:A friendo with too much money wants a monster gaming build. Is that budget in USD or AUS...D? A couple things for the build: - Go for 32gb of memory if he's going to spend that much and wants a monster build. - Get a 1tb 850 EVO instead of a 500gb 950 EVO. - Could get away with a 600-750w PSU if he wants to save some money there. - I'd get a cooler master hyper 212 evo instead of the $100 cooler. It'll do just as well.
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Sep 13, 2016 04:38
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Yes I have and it's exceptional. I once put a screwdriver through a motherboard while mounting a CPU cooler (12+ years ago) and they just gave me a new one no questions asked. I'm quite sure you'll have no issue.
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Sep 15, 2016 04:05
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Shooting Blanks posted:Anything similar with the USB ports (and everything else front mounted) not at the very bottom? I keep my case on the floor, that's rather inconvenient. It's obviously personal preference but you're going to find that most m-itx cases are designed to be on desks and if you keep your case on the floor you're one of very few m-itx people who do.
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Sep 15, 2016 05:50
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The noctua will be fine and maybe quieter. I don't find my 212 evo to be loud at all (with two fans mounted to it) but it's also in a case on my floor.
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Sep 15, 2016 10:15
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Always go 16gb of ram with a new build so you can run chrome.
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Sep 15, 2016 16:23
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Guys I was kidding about the chrome thing  but wasn't kidding about everyone should have 16gb.
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Sep 15, 2016 17:09
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itsjustdrew posted:Hey guys, I've had my PC for over 3 years now. Over the years I've upgraded almost everything on it (graphics card, RAM, power supply, etc) but I'm still running the original MoBo and Processor. You're correct in thinking it's a good time to move to intel and that an i7 would be a good idea if you're building a gaming/streaming PC because the i7's have multithreading which basically make them better at handling multiple discreet workloads. The one I'd look at is the i7-6700k which is overclockable (it has a k at the end). You can spend more or a lot less but it's a very good processor, especially if you're editing/rendering videos for youtube or w/e. I'd get at least 16gb of ram and maybe 32gb of ram if you're doing higher resolution streaming stuff while also encoding and saving to an ssd etc. If money is tight just go with a 16gb setup and see how it goes. For motherboards, there are frequent reccomendations in the thread, I like ASUS boards, MSI boards are popular, don't buy a gigabyte board. You don't really need a fancy looking board with huge heat spreaders on the VRM and stuff but those boards also usually come with more reliable components and better VRM for overclocking stability and such so really take a look at what you need. For cooling your new CPU I'd suggest a cooler master hyper 212 evo if you want something better and quieter than the stock cooler.
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Sep 16, 2016 05:39
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itsjustdrew posted:My Asus board has been absolutely fantastic, so I'll probably get another (if I even need to upgrade at all) Can you (or someone else here) recommend a specific model you'd go for? I can't make a budget recommendation but I use a maxiumus hero VIII or something and it's been great. I have an overclock running and it's extremely stable.
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Sep 16, 2016 10:58
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Btw if you use wireless for your PC don't spend an extra $100 on a mobo with wireless just get a pci-e wireless adapter.
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Sep 16, 2016 12:02
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Twerk from Home posted:Hi. I'm supposed to be a second set of eyes on some dual-socket budget barnburners for dev machines. Any data on the storage will be transient, so RAID 0 is good to go. ~12GB of RAM per core is the appropriate ratio. Anybody see any glaring mistakes, or have any cooler or mobo recommendations? Is 650W good to go for this? Will a single 1.2TB PCI-E Intel 750 SSD be massively faster than 4 commodity SATA ones in RAID 0? What exactly is the workload going to be like? Rendering or? e: I would absolutely not go with Crucial SSDs. If it's something that can have no acceptable downtime go for samsung or intel drives. That's an opinion piece from me I don't have any data to support it.
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Sep 19, 2016 21:31
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Twerk from Home posted:This is for everybody to have their own personal Kubernetes playpen for a giant pile of microservices, rather than maintaining multiple expensive dev environments in a cloud provider. The expectation with consumer SSDs in RAID 0 is that there will at some point be hardware failure, and replacement will happen. I just think to have 4x somewhat lovely SSDs in raid 0 you're going to have an unpleasant time, even if you're running the occasional backup (might want to toss in a WD 4tb drive or something for this if you aren't backing up to cloud services). I wouldn't run 4x crucial drives in 0 on a personal rig let alone a business workstation. You could also run them for years without a problem who knows.
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Sep 19, 2016 21:58
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AFAIK initially there was eufi issues with those drives but it could be resolved by now. Specifically I'm not sure for your application. For that price why not two 500gb Samsung 850 EVO's in raid 0?
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Sep 19, 2016 23:32
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flyboi posted:Oh hi. I'm back in this thread after years to consider possibly updating my processor. Reason being is I use Windows 7 for very specific reasons and 10 is not usable for me. Long list short Windows 8+ busted how midi is handled and I use roland devices via dosbox/other means to play old games with them. Other games I play flat out do not work or have such bad latency issues in 10 that I've yet to have a reason to upgrade. According to wikipedia Kaby Lake will not be fully supported outside Windows 10 because Microsoft hates everything not-10 and is the new Apple. That means that Sky Lake will be the last fully supported processor for Windows 7 and well sure whatever. Why upgrade your GPU if you have a 1080? Your PSU is fine still, can always add a HDD for storage. Definitely a new CPU is a good idea. Asus mobos are nice, I'd look for whatever is on sale with 6-8+ VRMs. e: Your cooler is also still fine.
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Sep 20, 2016 06:20
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so suggestions appreciated.
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^Going from a 980 to a 1070 for 1080p 60hz gaming is going to only benefit you 5-15fps. If it's worth it to you and you plan on upgrading your monitor to a 1440p or 4k one at some point then it's not a waste of money but if you're staying at 1080p (or that 1600x1200) it might not be worth your money.
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Sep 21, 2016 18:22
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DildenAnders posted:Could anyone help me with RAM? I have an HP Pavillion P7 1380t that currently has 3 GB of DDR3 10600U Ram, 1333mHz i believe. (i know its all i could scrounge up). i just ordered 2 4GB Sticks of 16000mHz ram and it doesnt seem to work (No error codes or beeps, but getting no video) i looked it up and it seems like this computer should work with this new RAM. Is there some setting i have to change in the BIOS to account for this new RAM? Did i mess up and buy the wrong kind? Thanks for any and all help as 3 GB of Ram is not nearly enough for WIndows 7 Pro, much less playing any games on it. Oh and if its relevant the onboard video doesnt seem to work so there is an old crappy GPU in there instead (a Biostar GeForce Gs8400 with 256Mb of DDr2 Ram) You're either putting the sticks in the wrong slots, not putting them in hard enough to make them click, not removing the old ram, using 2 sticks that aren't paired, or your pc can't support that ram for whatever reason.
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Sep 22, 2016 05:54
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Conspiratiorist posted:What's recommended for the low end if an i3 is too expensive? If you can't afford an i3 you won't be happy with the result regardless. At that point you should check local craigslist for parts.
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Sep 23, 2016 06:50
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Millow posted:I built a PC in 2012 based on mostly this thread's recommendations. I don't know much about current hardware. Right now I have: Guessing you're using a 1080p monitor? A 1060 would be fine but I'd buy a 1070 so you can grow into it and pick up a 1440p monitor down the road. Your CPU is also almost certainly bottlenecking a bit, I'm sure BF does benefit from multithreading to some extent.
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Sep 24, 2016 14:05
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