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PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

OP insufficiently morbid, please copy-paste old OP

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PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

MW posted:

I have unironically been thinking of climbing Everest (via a guided expedition of course). But I probably won't because of the risks involved and I couldn't do that to my wife and children. Nevertheless, wife has given me OK to go to first base camp and I'm looking at going 2022.

Reading about Everest makes me really want to go hike to base camp, then go climb Denali or something on a different occasion. Plenty of actual mountaineering and beautiful views, much lower chance of my brain melting in the thin air.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Jesus christ the well of pointless vindictiveness from the rich just never runs dry does it?

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Given that the descent is usually what kills people, I'm starting to think those people who paraglide off the thing are onto something.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Yeah I quite like this quote somebody added to Into Thin Air's wiki page:

quote:

Galen Rowell criticized Krakauer's account, citing numerous inconsistencies in his narrative while observing that Krakauer was sleeping in his tent while Boukreev was rescuing other climbers. Rowell argued that Boukreev's actions were nothing short of heroic, and his judgment prescient: "[Boukreev] foresaw problems with clients nearing camp, noted five other guides on the peak [Everest], and positioned himself to be rested and hydrated enough to respond to an emergency. His heroism was not a fluke."


That said, what's the deal with the no supplemental oxygen climbs? Is it just more pointless dick wagging that people bother to do it? Or does not bothering with oxygen just mean you're carrying less and it's a tradeoff situation?

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

That one helo did manage to fly right to the top once too, kinda surprised whoever makes it doesn't charge exorbitant fees to fly people up. The weight limit has to be tight, but capitalism knows no bounds...

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Yea early May for Everest, later for K2

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

DicktheCat posted:

Are people as crazy about K2? I know it's technically a harder climb, but people go nuts about Everest.

Historically no, because you actually need to be a capable mountaineer to have any real shot at summitting / not dying. Less than 400 have summitted, nearly 100 have died in the process. But now that Everest is gaining a reputation as the tourist mountain, more rookies are trying at K2 to get the new hippest bragging rights.

Here's a sweet video I watched yesterday about a team climbing it which includes some absolutely beautiful footage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvFt2Xcuois

The central pair are also doing the no supplemental oxygen thing, but of course their team includes three climbers who absolutely are on oxygen, and said climbers will have to do all the work of setting ropes and then be saddled with babysitting them when their decision making skills inevitably collapse. The beginning includes the story of one of them giving up oxygen on Everest in order to really "find his limits" (and nearly getting himself killed in the process), because the people climbing these mountains are loving insane.

e: also featured is a porter strike because climbers didn't want to tip them $10 for carrying all their poo poo 90 km up a glacier

PittTheElder fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Nov 2, 2020

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Yeah the super dangerous thing about K2 is that most routes run through the Bottleneck, which is the path formed underneath this huge rear end serac:



Big chunks of ice can fall off of that basically whenever, plus the part you walk on is like a 50 degree side slope.

If there was a Nepal 2015 level earthquake and that let go for some reason it might get a whole lot safer? :shrug:

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

From a AAC writeup on that winter Denali expedition:

quote:

Ray Genet, Dave Johnston and Art Davidson had reached the summit at approximately seven P.M. on February 28. There was a gusty wind of 35 to 40 miles per hour and the thermometer registered —62°F. They hollowed out a hole in the snow and buried Jacques Batkin s hat as a tribute to him.

Returning to the pass around midnight, they decided to spend the night there. That decision began an ordeal which lasted seven days. During the storm their main sustinence was courage and determination. Their packs blew away with a portion of their food and Art s anorak, but they dug in behind some sheltering rocks, climbed into their bags and waited. During momentary lulls, Dave scavenged around and found a bottle of gas he had left at the pass in 1963 (the finest example of preplanning I have ever known), plus some scraps of Army K-rations. Though they all suffered frostbite, Art subsequently lost half a toe and Dave, portions of several toes..

We found Mount McKinley in winter to be no more difficult than we imagined.

Climbers are an odd bunch

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Have you ever looked at climbing to the top of an 8000er and thought the descent looked too easy? Why not try popping a few Red Bulls and skiing down that bitch?

https://youtu.be/TiGkU_eXJa8

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Often when I'm driving though the mountains I'll look up at an avalanche gulley and think "that'd be fun to ski down". These people (also they were not the first) looked at loving Lhotse and thought the same thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPXSFVruIHI

Favorite moment is probably within the first minute when Mountaineering Matthew Fox points out that these are not risks anyone should ever take. One of the skiers explaining how he only got into this after he lost his wife and kids in a plane crash felt oddly appropriate as well, pain makes you do crazy poo poo.

A White Guy posted:

That's also why every now and then you see the kind of macabre suggestion of replacing lethal injection/gas chambers with helium filled execution chambers.

Yeah, state sanctioned executions are loving barbaric, but if they're going to happen hypobaric asphyxiation is probably the most humane way to do it. None of this poison injection nonsense.

PittTheElder fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Nov 3, 2020

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

AHH F/UGH posted:

Was there ever any traction on the "just close Everest, people are constantly dying there" thing? I know it's a huge source of income for a lot of people in that area but it's kind of gross to profit off people killing themselves for no reason

Not really, Nepal is pretty dependent on that income, both the local workers and the government on climbing permit revenue. Same reason they don't impose some sort of qualification requirement for permits.

Theoretically they could capture a large chunk of the same revenue and also thinning the crowd by issuing summit permits for specific days, but I don't know how they'd ever enforce it.

e; f, b.

Although isn't the China route quite a bit more difficult?

PittTheElder fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Nov 3, 2020

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Baby steps, we should probably start with somebody on a Krazy Karpet

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

They were looking for Irvine's bodycamera

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Outrail posted:

Lol. Imagine putting people in danger for a dead guy's selfies.

It's among the worst mysteries out there. Like maaaaaybe he made it to the summit but almost certainly not, and ultimately it doesn't much matter. But if anyone ever finds that camera they'll be able to sell the photos for the cost of like, at least one Everest expedition!

:negative:

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Cojawfee posted:

I have a feeling that if they find the camera one day and it shows that they made it to the summit, it will still be a big deal considering they would have made it to the top in 1924 and the first successful summit wasn't until 1953.

It's mostly because not many people were trying. There were only three expeditions with the summit as the goal in the interim (British '33, '36, '38), with the latter two not making it higher than the North Col because they got unlucky with the weather. The Swiss (feat. Tenzing Norgay) got close in '52, but was the first attempt from the newly opened southern route and never really intended to summit, though they did much better than expected and wound up pushing beyond the South Col.

PittTheElder fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Dec 10, 2020

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

That Mallory and Irvine website also makes a compelling case that they would not have attempted to climb the steps at all, given that a route had been scouted though the couloir below and appeared workable.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Conrad Anker called it a 5.10, multiple other people before him assessed it at a 5.7 or 5.8.

And again, there's a good chance Mallory and Irvine would not have attempted to climb it in the first place, since the British teams before and after used the Norton Couloir route.

PittTheElder fucked around with this message at 07:57 on Dec 12, 2020

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Outrail posted:

E: this cut on my foot looks kinda swollen

Just rinse that poo poo off bro it's fine

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

I haven't watched the film yet but I recognize some of the climber names, and that might be the expedition that featured a porter strike when people (other than the named climbers) refused to tip the porters :10bux:

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

HugeGrossBurrito posted:

It’s been awhile since I read a bunch of climbing books but yeah iirc isn’t a big part of the climb super technical while giant ice and snow chunks randomly fall down over it even on a good day?

It's far more of a technical climb to set up, but it is certainly possible to buy your way onto an expedition and make it up without much in the way of experience because your guides will do the hard work and setup fixed ropes. So you don't need to be an expert mountaineer or anything, but it is certainly more difficult than Everest is. And as stated, if you get struck with Snow Blindness or HAPE/HACE, there is no easy way down.

It's not like random poo poo is falling on you every day though, it's more that the route is not free of avalanches/falling ice; even one of the camps (C2 or C3, can't remember) is exposed to avalanches, and reasonably often people ascend/descend to find their camp just destroyed. There's just no real way to remove yourself from being hit by one of those, the Russian Roulette analogy is a good one.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Jeza posted:

Yep. In the spirit of most competitive sporting things, there is usually a somewhat arbitrary line drawn as to what constitutes outside assistance. 'Outside' generally meaning 'not born with it'. So Olympic swimmers don't get to wear flippers or certain advantageous swimsuits, but if you happen to born with size 20 feet and glossy smooth skin that's A-OK.

It's such a stupid distinction. Are we going to ask mountaineers to climb without coats and crampons next? Also I think free diving has used fins forever (including moving to huge monofins) and nobody gives a poo poo as far as I'm aware.

fe: yeah and then there's the gender thing.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Are the testosterone counts of male hyperperforming athletes just through the roof as well? I would assume they are.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

WorldsStongestNerd posted:

That is pretty bad. However I wonder if people like that legitimately can't help themselves, and how much is genetic or cultural.

It's definitely something about that personality type, whatever the cause, astronauts have absolutely atrocious relationship survival rates. Reading about the early days of American space flight is ridiculous, none of them are ever at home, and nearly all of them are cheating on their wives on the regular, with the marriages only staying intact because getting divorced meant you wouldn't get to fly.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Hearing that one dude scream Zut Alor as he hurdles down a 70 degree slope is something else

Strategic Tea posted:

Is it not equally that society, especially back them, would demand that they get married and have kids? Discriminate against them as candidates if they did not, even?

I don't know about kids, but yes. If I'm remembering my affairs correctly, Donn Eisele was pretty convinced he got turfed from the flight rotation after his wife divorced him (and he quickly remarried the other woman). It was also partially about macho bullshit too, Rusty Schweickart got pulled from further flights after he admitted he'd had a pretty bad space adaptation sickness his first day; to hear the astronauts tell it afterwards that was the case for about half of them, he was just the first to admit it to the doctors/management.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Yeah most of them were complete assholes. Mike Collins, Jim Lovell, and Charlie Duke stand out as probably the most famous non-rear end in a top hat astronauts of the era.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

It's easy to forget such things when your brain is busy pushing itself down your spinal column in search of more oxygen

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

I'd have a hard time believing nobody had ever got it on at the South Col, if only just to try it. Sleep's not easy (or even advisable?) at that altitude anyway.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Haifisch posted:

I looked at a tall hill once. I'm all set for Everest, right?

No you have to photoshop yourself into a picture of Lake Louise first

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Wind died though, and the Nepalis are making a run at the summit right now. Slow going, last update had them rope fixing towards the bottleneck, summit potentially in 3-4 hours.

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/01/15/winter-k2-summit-update-2-tracking-the-historic-summit-push/

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Phi230 posted:

I will never scuba dive after that goon posted about how people just disappear on dives.

somebody link that poo poo

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Who the gently caress is dying while snorkeling, jesus

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

High altitude mountaineering is primarily driven by a desire to escape the living nightmare that is the ocean

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Crazycryodude posted:

The ocean is extremely cool, I'm a big fan of the ocean, I just don't ever want to loving interact with it or the things that live in it where I can't easily see the well-lit bottom. Except whales, I guess I'd dive with whales if given the chance, I trust the whales to protect me from the scary depths

I would love to do this, but am also concerned that the whale might just smack me to death with its tail, in the same way I might accidentally step on a insect.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

You can always go solo Everest (illegally since Nepal banned people from doing it to stop them from dying)

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

captainblastum posted:

This guy has an (interestingly varied) youtube channel with a lot of very uncomfortable caving expeditions, here's relevant recent one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CpBFEre4tkw

seriously gently caress that. If I'm going to die underground it'll be playing minecraft like my man Paleas https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ner-AnCDuAs

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

Yeah the summiters were all back down at base camp by that evening. Nims' nose looked hosed up but nobody was saying anything about it so I guess he's ok

Everybody confirmed Fine except for the unrelated guy who fell off the mountain around Camp 1. He was Not Fine.

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PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

djssniper posted:

One explanation also was he might have been attempting a bounce dive, hence the weight, hit the bottom, register it, drop and get back up, but narc'd out on the bottom

I don't know what a bounce dive is but it sounds like the stupidest thing one could ever attempt.

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