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My right pedal just fell off, leaving the shaft behind in the crank. Most disturbing. They’re Shimano Deore XT PD-T8000 pedals, meant to be long lasting touring pedals - only had them a year or two. I thought they were meant to be sealed units. Can this be fixed, or do I need a new set of pedals? Not sure if anything actually snapped off or not.    wooger fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Jun 20, 2021 |
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Jun 20, 2021 14:28
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FireTora posted:It looks like the locknut probably came off, take a look at this park tool video, they show the whole spindle taken apart at ~3 minutes. I'd unscrew the part that's still in the pedal body and if all the parts are still there, just put it back together with some new grease. Thanks, that video makes sense, but doesn’t explain how the whole pedal body fell off in the street. And I’m not sure there’s anything else left in the pedal body to re-attach other than grease. Will have a poke around.
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Jun 20, 2021 19:24
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Dren posted:On day two of an overnight I noticed my buddy's back wheel developed a wobble. He had all his gear on the back, it was enough weight that he couldn't park bike at a stop without it tipping backwards and falling over. We looked at it briefly, no spokes were busted and we didn't have too far left to go so we finished the trip. What's the likely thing to be wrong here? Does the wheel still spin freely? Is the rim still round? Could be loose cone nuts.
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Aug 23, 2021 09:44
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Mechanical Pencil posted:Someone give a good reason I shouldn't(apart from price) buy a couple Schwalbe Big Apple's for my tired old SE Big Ripper 29er BMX for $100 AUD. What are you gonna ride them on? How wide a tyre do you want?
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Sep 14, 2021 13:27
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Samopsa posted:Imo the trp hy rd hybrid mech/hydraulic are the way to go: https://trpcycling.com/product/hyrd/ Lol no. Worst of all possible worlds. I’d prefer rim brakes.
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Oct 7, 2021 18:13
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What’s the current thinking on what to do with the factory lube on a Shimano (Ultegra 10 speed) chain? Last advice I read was wipe it down well and use it for a bit, then clean / lube as usual. I’m going to use a wet lube eventually as this is my winter / commuter bike.
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Nov 24, 2021 12:42
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Aargh, I dropped my bike while standing around chatting it up after a group ride today. Drive side down… and I’ve bent the built in derailleur hanger on my steel frame. Is this something worth even thinking about fixing myself without a hanger alignment tool?
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Jan 9, 2022 14:46
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e.pilot posted:If you’re asking the question probably not. Well it’d be easy to bend it back sort of true with an adjustable spanner. Agree though, the existence of specialist tools means it probably matters rather a lot to be precise.
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Jan 9, 2022 15:19
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PolishPandaBear posted:Is there a bike co-op near you? Last time I bent the hanger on my MTB, I paid for half an hour to use their alignment tool. 2018, 105 11 speed. They still make steel bikes because steel is real etc. No co-ops as far as I know, there are occasional drop in sessions but always when I’m on rides, so I’ll take it to a trusted shop.
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Jan 9, 2022 20:42
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Amazingly I found a bike repair shop (run as a coop, but not a US style bike coop place) near me that fixed the derailleur hanger and re-indexed my gears for £6, which seems like madness. I know someone that works there part time and they’re all well trained. Good to know for next time.
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Jan 16, 2022 12:48
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mexecan posted:Edited for larger pics. Assume you also have the hollow tech crank preload tool?
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Jan 17, 2022 09:39
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mikemelbrooks posted:FYI after I rode my newly waxed chain out side in the rain I came back a couple of days later to find that it had started to rust, now If I ride in the rain I will wipe the chain over with a water displacing spray and a oily rag. Hope you don’t mean wd40. Liable to poo poo up any lube.
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Feb 16, 2022 16:29
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e.pilot posted:and if it doesn’t a wolf tooth road link will solve that A wolftooth helps with reaching a larger rear cog than specced, but doesn’t help with an overall larger system capacity. CopperHound posted:Here are the specs for that one. https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-53Z0D-000-00-ENG.pdf Yep, best case it’s a GS (long cage), and assuming the usual 16 tooth difference in the front chainrings, that only leaves a capacity of 21 for the rear. 34 - 11 = 23. If it’s a short cage whodatwhere has, a new Shimano Sora 9 speed long cage derailleur is cheap.
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Mar 1, 2022 21:06
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bicievino posted:Tubeless valves are pretty much interchangeable unless you're running cushcore or similar inserts. Agreed, only thing to even consider is if you’re switching to deep rims you need a longer valve to make it out.
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Mar 26, 2022 20:23
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Saw this bike cleaning video from the Legion bike racing head mechanic https://youtu.be/C73heVMUI_I Seems way off the mark in lots of ways vs. accepted knowledge, and seems especially far from the mark via what I’d expect for a “pro” cycling team. - Putting degreaser all over your rear hub, BB & derailleur pulley wheels. - Cleaning the chain with just a paintbrush with degreaser on it, vs. Immersion in the correct solvents off the bike. - Using an oil based chain lube at all.
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Jul 12, 2022 13:49
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Guinness posted:they make it so your rims are not wear items Slavvy posted:a desire to not hear irritating rubbing. Are you in fact talking about disc brakes? Slavvy posted:Had to google, looks expensive, regular old Shimano will do me.
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Aug 2, 2022 08:39
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e.pilot posted:not if you like carbon wheels Carbon wheels can overheat if you drag the brakes on a long mountain descent, but the modern coated / textured brake tracks probably wear less than Alu rims.
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Aug 2, 2022 21:55
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Residency Evil posted:I just got a new bike after being away from riding for a few years. I've jumped a few years in technology, since my last bike had an aluminum frame and 10 speed Force/Rival, and regular rim brakes. The new one has a carbon frame, 12 speed electronic Force, and hydraulic brakes. If you drag them on long steep descents the failure mode is different: The hydraulic fluid can boil causing moderate to complete brake fade. Don’t drag your brakes down mountains. You can recover somewhat by pumping the levers. Also with heavy repeated use in a short period the discs will get really hot and can warp a bit and cause annoying rubbing noises. Not much you can do. Lastly, the hydraulic pistons will automatically adjust for pad wear, so the brakes will feel the same at the levers throughout the pads life, which is nice. This does make it harder to spot when they need replacing, and they’re inside a small caliper so harder to see than rim pads. Make sure you check your pads regularly. Road bike disc brakes seem more troublesome than mtb ones, tighter tolerances I think.
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Sep 16, 2022 15:11
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), but anything I should watch out for with the disc brakes?
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Yeep posted:I'm trying to convert an old MTB to 1x on the cheap and I've been given (for free) a Sunrace 11-46 cassette with a crack in the smallest ring. Is that safe to ride assuming I avoid actually shifting into it? I'd be concerned that if it actually splits the rest of the cassette will come loose, but mountain bike cassettes are expensive so I'd rather not have to buy a new one. A sun race cassette is like £50, no? The cassette lockring should hold all the cogs in place onto the freehub directly, but yes you’ll have a problem if you shift into that smallest cog and crack it. But if you want to save money, just ride the present drivetrain maybe?
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Nov 25, 2022 16:45
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At this point, given enough space I’d be tempted to get one of the posh stands that support the bike by the front fork axle (wheel off) and bottom bracket. The pro tour mechanics seem to exclusively use them, they seem a much safer and more sturdy way of holding the bike, with no concern about clamping carbon too tight. https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Park-Tool/PRS-222-Team-Issue-Repair-Stand/HRNT?s=1 Expensive also.
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Dec 22, 2022 16:40
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:I’ve got one of those (Feedback Sports Sprint) and if you’re doing serious wrenching it’s much better than a clamp, especially if you’ve got aero seatposts to try and deal with. I have a cheap clamp stand that I’ll use for washing bikes outside but anything major gets done on the Sprint. Yeah my cheap stand is now slipping and already isn’t as stable as I’d like, so may not be long for this world. For davebo’s purposes, I don’t think they make a wall mount version of the fork mount stands yet?
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Dec 22, 2022 17:18
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mexecan posted:Any suggestions on troubleshooting a tubeless setup that randomly started leaking? Tape is probably done, pull it off, clean up the rim, wipe with isopropyl alcohol and re-tape with Tesa 4289 tape of the correct width (probably 21mm for up to 19mm internal rim width). 2 wraps, plenty of guides online. And make sure you don’t tear it when piercing it to re-seat the valve. Best to use something round and sharp, maybe heated. Make sure you over-inflate the tyres a bit until they fully seat and pop onto the rims.
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Jan 1, 2023 21:31
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Those cranksets (and rotor ones) really need the right torque. A torque wrench will cost less than a new crankset, or hospital bills if something falls off. Or take it to a shop.
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Jan 2, 2023 14:45
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Slavvy posted:In that scenario I can just lock the RD to whatever gear I want with the cable stump and get home, I can also carry a cable with me to replace it on the spot. And that cable is under 5$ and is available anywhere in the world.
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Jan 8, 2023 08:23
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Lex Neville posted:I've been using drip wax since I started road cycling for exercise, but now I would like to start immersive waxing with four chains on rotation. I would also like to swap out my short cage R6800 rear derailleur for an R8000 with a longer cage, so I can swap out my 11-28 cassette for an 11-32 one. The thing is, I have two fairly new and well-maintained 11-28 cassettes, one on the bike itself and one on the turbo. If I buy the four chains and size them to work with an 11-32 cassette, can I keep using the 28-tooth cassettes on the turbo with the same chains? Or do I need to keep a dedicated chain for the 11-28 cassette and swap chains every time I install the bike on the turbo? Will be fine, might want to adjust B screw a bit if using outside, otherwise no problem for erg mode. I do the same on my trainer bike with the same gs-rd8000 11 speed Ultegra medium cage derailleur.
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Jan 23, 2023 14:49
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brand engager posted:I've been using wax lube and the chain still gets filthy after one day at a trail. Am I using too much or is that still normal? It's that dry lube white lightning makes. Immersion wax lube isn’t the same thing at all as the various drip products or any dry lube. It works much better, lasts much longer.
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Jan 24, 2023 08:01
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bicievino posted:In severely wet conditions, I reapply it daily. But if it fails in 100km, and I’m riding 200km, this doesn’t help. I thought it needed a long time to dry too? Lex Neville posted:Staying on topic: do any of you wax multiple chains in the bag silca provide (or au bain marie in general)? How much more convenient is a slow cooker exactly? After buying secret chain blend, super secret drip, 3 chains, a new cassette, a new rear derailleur and a set of reusable quick links, saving some money wouldn't hurt. Advantages of a slow cooker: - Don’t have to watch it to keep a constant temperature for many hours, just torn on and wait. - Can plug in in a garage or wherever is convenient, not limited to a stovetop in your kitchen. And leave the wax in there with the lid down for storage. - They really don’t cost much at all anyway, and you’ll likely poo poo up a pan with wax by accident anyway. Don’t forget to buy the various solvents required to strip the factory grease from those chains too, plus containers to do it in wooger fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Jan 24, 2023 |
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Jan 24, 2023 18:15
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Lex Neville posted:I don't understand what you mean by many hours though. You melt the wax, dunk in the chain(s), wait for the wax to start solidifying again and take them out, no? I mean the UFO drip wax, it quotes 8 hours.
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Jan 24, 2023 18:44
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TobinHatesYou posted:I did over 160km with Silca Super Secret and it didn’t make any noise. UFO Drip doesn’t last as long as Silca in dry conditions and does act differently…it is a lot drier itself. I have not tried it in very wet conditions. Never said I’d used all (three?) of the lubes being discussed, just read the ZFC review of UFO though. I use immersion waxed chains on my good bike, they last hundreds of miles, not worth it in the British winter though. The deal is to just not care that much, run a cheaper bike and put up with imperfectly clean & smooth drivetrain. An oil lube (Silca Synergetic for now) at least stops the rust. I’ve ridden through flooded roads deeper than my BB three times in the last 2 weeks, there is not enough time or dry weather or daylight to keep things nice.
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Jan 24, 2023 22:41
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Yeep posted:I'm most of the way through a cheap, second hand upgrade to 1x11 on my old mountain bike but I'm having trouble with the SLX 11 speed shifter. I can't position it on the bars in a way that it doesn't catch on my bar grips when I push the levers. My grips are these (https://www.raceface.com/products/half-nelson-grip?variant=31963013414994) which claim to be low profile. A quick Google says the SLX shifters are just tight like that and to move them closer to the stem until they don't catch but if I do that I won't be able to reach them with my thumbs. Do I just need to give up and find a different shifter? Is your handlebar curved or something? Your grips don’t look insanely thick or anything, surely this would’ve come up for more people? Post a photo of your setup please.
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Feb 13, 2023 10:57
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hadji murad posted:Here is the picture of intense clamp damage that I have been threatening to post for a while. I don’t understand, is it just a rounded bolt head? 10 minute max fix for any competent shop, wtf. Good quality hex keys or mole grips might do it without even the slightest risk to the frame. And your frame is just aluminium, not anything even crazy expensive - are they scared of depriving the world of an irreplaceable relic if they somehow screw up?
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Mar 9, 2023 01:02
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Had to abandon a gravel ride yesterday after a loud snap sound from my rear wheel, and then zero catch on my freehub. It turned both directions independent of the rear wheel, though with some roughness. Took it apart today:   2 of 3 pawls ripped right off the freehub body with fatal damage. They were in pieces floating around in the ratchet area. Time to warranty, as the wheels are only 5 months old and I only rode gravel occasionally. Fulcrum rapid red 5 db. Anyone have a clue what can cause this, or if there’s any known issues with Fulcrum freehubs. There were no warning signs.
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Mar 19, 2023 20:22
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Yeah, my hope hubs both look similar to the white industries one. Disturbing that this freehub is a shared Fulcrum/Campagnolo part used on all their current gen wheels - if it’s truly that bad. I might’ve only used these wheels 10 times from new.
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Mar 20, 2023 00:24
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Havana Affair posted:I might be wrong but I don't think the cap can really fall off if the pinch bolts are tightened to the correct torque with the crank being inserted deep enough on the axle. Kinda like a threadless headset where you can remove the top cap once the stem is tightened without the bearing coming loose. Yep pretty much. It could be removed and would do nothing as all its doing is preload. Finger tight, just enough to remove play in the BB is all it needs. It won’t ever fall out, especially if the threads are greased. But it’s plastic and not made to hold the crank on… Suburban Dad’s problem is undoubtedly that the crank arm bolts weren’t torqued correctly, probably by the shop, sadly common for mass market non-specialist bike shops. This happened to a friend of mine buying a gravel bike from Wiggle last year. I think Shimano recommend you re-check the torque after 1000 miles or something too.
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Apr 14, 2023 20:33
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Slavvy posted:Is this a Fred stem? 100%. Though hopefully safer than the stack of spacers + dodgy steerer extension. I kind of want to see bike fit style side-on pictures of someone riding that bike, because it just has nothing in common with how you’re meant to sit on a road bike. Bars that high would be really uncomfortable, and they’re tilted way back. Maybe the frame is just massively too big (long anyway) for the rider.
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May 3, 2023 07:48
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vikingstrike posted:If you have a round steerer tube, you can also buy a long plug to provide support further down the steerer. Yes this. The area where your stem clamps to the steerer needs to be supported inside by the bung, and the stock bungs aren’t long enough. Measure how far from the top of the steerer the bottom of your stem will clamp on, and then check against the length of this Deda plug https://www.lordgunbicycles.co.uk/deda-70-mm-headset-expander-plug-for-1-1-8-carbon-forks-1
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May 12, 2023 18:01
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Slavvy posted:Looks like I'm biting the bullet and finally going tubeless. 25mm tape approx. Orange seal.
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Jul 6, 2023 09:20
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but what's a good brand of sealer?
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Silicone backed bar tape of whatever sort is well worth the extra. No gunk left on your bars, you can re-wrap as many times as it takes until you’re happy, and if you do things like move brifter angle, you can just re-wrap the same tape. BBB Flexribbon is my go to, just wish they had more colours.
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Jul 11, 2023 14:58
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Withnail posted:I'm building my fist road bike with disc brakes and the last thing I have not ordered are rotors. 160 brake better and overheat less, I don’t see any argument for 140mm other than weight weenie-ism. You can go for 140mm on the back if you want, but it looks wrong to me.
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Jul 24, 2023 17:01
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kimbo305 posted:Did they run homemade sealant back then? Did sealant predate rim tape and tubeless valves? Sealant existed for use inside tubes for at least a decade before I heard of tubeless.
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Jul 26, 2023 17:35
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