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So I'm going to be replacing the ignighter in my oven for the third time in 6 years. Also, the digital display has dead/dying cells. Should I be looking at a replacement?
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Nov 14, 2020 16:18
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Two questions. First, I have a small set of stairs going out my back door and into my yard - 3 stairs and maybe a 3x3 landing. Last year, during summer I applied some self adhesive no slip tape to try and help with icing. It worked OK for a while, but when clearing off snow one morning, the whole strip came off two steps like it was nothing. I followed the instructions, made sure the wood was clean and dry, not too hot or cold out when putting the tape on, and it is outdoor rated, maybe the adhesive is just weak? I was thinking of instead taking some resin and mixing in some pea gravel or something with a bit of grip and applying a layer to the steps. Good idea? Bad idea? I know it would be a bit more permanent, but I'll probably be replacing the boards in a few years anyway. Second, even though I've lived in this house for about 6 years now, it really only occurred to me the other day that I have some carpeting in my bathroom. There is about a 4 inch strip just on the other side of the doorway, inside the bathroom where the carpet from the hall comes in. Thinking on it, my guess is that the bathroom was redone and tiled before the carpet was completed, and the PO ran out of tiles, so they just continued the carpet into the bathroom. It's not a major concern, other than having carpet and padding in a bathroom just always feels gross. The carpet is far enough away that in any day to day scenario, I'm not too worried about drips or spills or anything like that, but if the toilet starts leaking it might be a problem. Presumably there is hard wood under the carpet, as there was when I pulled up carpet in other areas. Does it make sense to back burner this until we decide to replace the carpet in the hall area? I almost feel like it's not worth the effort to pull up this little strip, put down tile and add some kind of transition, but I also feel like I'd rather have a pro do it right if I'm going to do it.
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Mar 12, 2021 21:28
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Both good options, thank you.
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Mar 12, 2021 23:48
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Just got a new fridge and it slides forward when I go to open the door. There are casters, but they don't have locks. I have a couple shims blocking them right now, and it helps, but it's still more movement than I want. Is there something else I can do?
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Mar 15, 2021 05:25
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PainterofCrap posted:You should be able to raise or lower the casters by turning a screw or bolt in front of each caster. The heads should be visible if you get down low and inspect the front lower edge. I missed that there were feet to unscrew that will apparently stop the wheels from engaging (and they are not mentioned in the manual). A bit different from my previous fridge, but I should be able to make that work.
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Mar 15, 2021 17:15
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Guyver posted:I got a vizio e65-c3 tv that the backlights are going out and I want to try replacing them myself because I don't have enough frustration in my life at the moment. Amazon seems to have them in stock https://www.amazon.com/E600DLB030-007-Backlight-Strips-E60-C3-Complete/dp/B01LZJBYR9
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Apr 6, 2021 14:30
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I had to have some of my vinyl fence moved and repaired last year. Because of the move, the mechanism that opens and closes the latch was re-positioned and is barely holding on. In short, I'm planning on replacing the twisting handle style with a basic self closing latch, but when I remove the old hardware there's going to be some pretty big holes in the fence itself. Some screw holes for sure, and also about a quarter sized hole on either side where the meat of the cylinder was sitting. Is there a good way to patch those? Are vinyl patching kits a thing that you can get in an average big box store? I could see gluing down some kind of mesh and then applying something like caulk or epoxy to fix it appearance wise, but if I wanted to re-drill holes for hardware close, but not using the exact same spots, would that give structure?
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Apr 24, 2021 21:35
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My house is a corner lot with a stop sign/bus stop on one side and a fire hydrant on the other. We're looking at landscaping options to do around those items. We looked up rules about fire hydrants and in general, you can't plant anything within 3 ft of a hydrant (Grass is OK, bushes/shrubs not OK). We could not find anything regarding planting around a stop sign, other than the sign itself needs to be visible. The stop sign is just a metal pole in the ground, and currently surrounded by grass. Assuming I don't do anything stupid like knock the pole over or dig it out, are there any rules about planting around a thing like that? Completely separate subject, I have a storm door on my back porch that needs to be replaced. As near as I can tell, the frame is square (level pressed against all four sides showed level, speed square fit squarely in all 4 corners), it's the door itself that is bent out of shape. However, the wood frame where the air cylinder attaches is split to hell and full of holes (and PO installed the little metal stopper backwards/upside down, so it can't prop the door open). Any way, I could potentially use wood filler, and fill in all the cracks and whatnot, and then re-drill and mount the new cylinder, but would there be anything wrong with mounting the cylinder at the top of the door? Or would I be OK just finding enough real estate down here to mount? 
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Jul 19, 2021 15:48
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Charles posted:
Stair Treads, as others have said. I will add that you get what you pay for. My first set were thin rubber and were worthless. Paid for some heavier duty treads and am mostly happy. After 5 years the little bit that goes down on the front of the tread has worn off on most of them, but drat if I haven't had a slip since installing them.
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Aug 3, 2021 22:47
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Paul MaudDib posted:the washer is now so far out of balance it walked its way off a shim and tripping a sensor and halting the cycle. on top of the previous issues this may be it. Think I’d be looking at $300 of parts before this. Product recommendation thread is maybe a better spot, but I'd offer a few suggestions: Avoid anything that insists on connection to IOT or your phone to make/change settings. If you have to download an app to use the thing, pass. Along similar lines, I don't trust a phone manufacturer to make a good, large home appliance. I don't like touch screens on big equipment. Just feels like one more thing to fail. Anything you buy today is probably going to be way more efficient than what you are replacing. What brand are you replacing? I don't know if you'll get another 30 years out of it, but that's a really good run. Maybe look and see what the latest model of that is. I don't know how bad wait times are now for appliances, but it was 6+ months for me last year to get a new fridge. Same for a buddy of mine. You might either need to look far and wide, or prepare for a wait.
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Jan 27, 2022 04:18
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I replaced a light fixture in my living room a few years ago - went from a fan + lights to an LED light fixture. Just a basic off the shelf model, with built in LEDs - no bulbs to speak of. I've done several fixtures before so I'm fairly confident in the work, and it's been fine for the past 2-3 years. However, starting last week, it takes several minutes for the light to come on. This morning it took maybe 10 minutes before the light came on. Some days it's 5 minutes or less, but it is not instant anymore. I don't think it's the fixture dying, as it's not very old, and I would assume that the light output would be getting weaker if the LEDs were burning out/failing. I've replaced 3 other fixtures in this house without issue, so I don't think it's workmanship, and if it had been that, I would assume failure would have been more immediate and violent. So I'm wondering what else might be causing this. I hope more for a failure of the hardware rather than a fire hazard inside my ceiling.
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Mar 10, 2022 17:55
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Motronic posted:The fixture is dying. I can say this with 99.9% confidence. Most LEDs are poo poo. And don't always fail in the way you seem to think they do. It's everything from strobing (sometimes only at specific temperatures or on startup), simply not turning on every time, delayed turning on (i.e., cold solder joints that make contact once the components heat up enough)..... OK, cool. Rather it that, than potentially burning my house down. I'll see if I can find something better with bulbs and spend the extra $$$ for quality. Thanks for the peace of mind.
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Mar 10, 2022 18:31
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Charles posted:If you do get an enclosure type fixture just be aware that screw in bulbs are mostly not enclosure rated, except usually for the "40w" variety or less. It's usually in small print on the box somewhere unfortunately. I will keep that in mind, thank you.
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Mar 10, 2022 22:20
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About 6 months ago the lever on my toilet broke and I replaced it with a generic $20 plastic model. It works OK, but two things. First, the lever handle doesn't quite sit flush against the tank. It kind of leans out a bit like \. Like there should be a washer or nut or something to secure it from the inside of the tank to the outside more securely, but there was nothing else in the kit. Just the lever assembly. It works OK, but looks crappy. Second, it sometimes takes a lot of effort to make it flush. Way more than it feels like should really be necessary. This is a tank where the part that lifts and releases the water is located in the center, and there is a ring/loop of plastic where the lever is threaded through. Push down on the handle, lever lifts up and pushes the ring up, toilet flushes. I cannot see a way to rotate the central post that will make that ring move along the lever making it easier to flush. Are these issues related? What can I do to fix it? I'm OK with spending a bit more money if it solves the problem. I can get pictures later if it will help.
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May 9, 2022 15:49
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actionjackson posted:a couple small questions about my mini-blinds that I put in a while ago (I have the 1" version, image 1 below) The Valance cover would be if you wanted to put decorative curtains around the blinds - completely optional The bottom rail brackets, as I understand it, are used if you want to have the blinds down, semi-permanently, and don't want them to move around too much. There should be matching notches/holes on either side of the bottom bar that would let the pegs of the brackets slot in. Since it sounds like you have this installed on a door it might prevent the blinds from knocking on the door every time you open/close it.
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Aug 4, 2022 15:44
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AFewBricksShy posted:The dumbest derail ever. Do not gently caress with it. Call a repair guy.
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Aug 9, 2022 15:58
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Lester Shy posted:I think my POS 2012 Samsung bottom-freezer fridge is dying. I woke up this morning and it was mildly cool, reading about 55F, while the freezer was 27F. There was also frost all over everything in the freezer. I unplugged it for 5 minutes and plugged it back in. Upon restarting the fridge was giving a "33 E" error, which apparently deals with the ice maker heating element. Both ice makers on this fridge have been broken for years. I had something similar on a side by side last year or so. Things got warm, but the freezer section was iced over. I had to take all the food out, (Moved to an ice filled cooler temporarily) unplugged the fridge, cleaned the coils in back, removed the shelves from the freezer section, took the interior back panel off, and found the heat sink (probably wrong term) was completely iced over. Ran a heat gun over the ice until it melted enough that I could get the ice out of there. That bought me some time, maybe a month. I think it was the thermostat that went there. I replaced it after the second or third time, but the problem persisted so I just ended up replacing with something new. Since you are talking a bottom freezer unit, your setup will be different, but it might be something similar. You might be able to get away with replacing the thermostat, but as others have said, Samsung parts might be hard to come by, and I don't know how to access your system. Look up the manual, see if you can find parts, and if you are mechanically inclined, give it a go. But you might be better off putting that time and effort into a new unit instead. If your freezer is having the same ice build up mine was, this will at least buy you some time, so it's not an emergency.
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Aug 26, 2022 20:56
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My wife requested a way to elevate the shower head in our main bathroom, so I purchased and installed this S curve pipe  Installed fine, works fine. All good there. The issue is that we have a shower caddy that secures over the pipe, but because there's not enough straight pipe coming off the wall, I can't secure it. If I could secure it, it would jut out at an angle instead of flat against the wall This is the caddy we have https://www.amazon.com/simplehuman-Adjustable-Stainless-Anodized-Aluminum/dp/B00PR0V2BE?th=1 This is the clasp, it's two half circles that are held together with a screw on one side  Is there some kind of hook that I could lay over the pipe, that I could then secure the shower rack to? Water proof and able to hold up two full shampoo bottles. Helpful if not ugly.
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Sep 23, 2022 01:47
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BonoMan posted:Honestly, if weight isn't too big of an issue, I'd just glue another suction cup to the top (similar to the ones at the bottom) and suction it all just below the shower head and not worry about using the hook. Weight is an issue and the tiles in the shower are not smooth, so suction cup isn't going to work in this case. Slugworth posted:Anything stopping you from just installing a 1 or 2 inch nipple at the wall? Lack of knowledge. Can you expand on this? How permanent would this be?
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Sep 23, 2022 05:31
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I had new storm doors installed on my house recently, and annoyingly, the latch sticks on one of them. The handle on the outside is a button press, and it works, but when you let go of the button it sticks, so the door is stuck in the open position. If on the inside you press in the lever, it springs back into the closed position on its own. What might cause this?
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Oct 31, 2022 15:27
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Suburban Dad posted:Talked to an electrician about it yesterday and he suggested it's pretty easy and I could do it myself (not sure why he didn't want to make easy money) IME if a pro comes onsite and says "It's easy enough that you can do it" it usually means that the job isn't worth the time investment on their end. Yeah, they could spend 30 minutes doing a simple job and make $100, but that 30 min could be better spent going to another customer with a $300 job. Again, IME, the electricians I've worked with have charged by the job, not by the hour.
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Dec 13, 2022 15:00
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Trying to plan ahead for warmer, drier weather and I want to repaint my porch. I have a belt sander to try and make my life easier. Assuming all the wood is good, what grits should I probably work with? I don't think I need to start with something as abrasive as an 80, but I want to do it correctly. Also, it it ok to run the sander over the screw heads (assuming they are at or below surface level)? As for paint, I do want paint as opposed to stain. Is there a better brand or style? Do I just want exterior house paint, or do they make a specific, higher wear-and-tear style paint for porches? Should I get some kind of sealer, or would a good brand have an all in one?
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Feb 17, 2023 16:03
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Raenir Salazar posted:I don't think that works, how is the delivery person supposed to get the key? This problem got a little more of my attention largely because the post office suddenly decided some packages it just wouldn't accept, so I can't just have them act as my drop off point and be done with it. The delivery person doesn't get a key. Think of it like a post box with a bigger opening at the top or like a vending machine. It has a spring loaded door that would allow items to be placed inside, but attempting to reach in through that door, the door itself blocks someone from reaching in and pulling out anything. There would be a side door with some kind of lock that would allow you to unlock, open and pull out your packages. Also, depending on what you are shipping, you could always set up your work location as a delivery address (easier if you work in an office, but way less likely to be stolen by opportuning thieves).
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Mar 17, 2023 15:15
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Lawnie posted:Is there a TrueValue or Ace near you? I have found those places have significantly more useful employees for less straightforward questions. Menards are good for this too Also, try to find the oldest guy there. Old, semi-retired guys working in hardware stores tend to be old DIY-ers or guys working to offset their woodworking habit.
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Apr 4, 2023 21:23
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Along similar lines I've seen mentions of a product that is a kind of reflective privacy film for home windows. But how does it work at night? If it's like a two way mirror, and the lights are on inside the house, doesn't that mean that the reflective properties won't work?
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Apr 17, 2023 18:32
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Phanatic posted:Replaced my shutters recently and they're slightly smaller than the old shutters, which wouldn't be a problem except that whoever hung the old shutters decided to align and level them by painting a white outline on the brick wall. Citrus based paint remover and a stiff brush? https://www.amazon.com/Safe-Easy-Va...Y2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1 Should be safe for most surfaces, but maybe do a spot test to make sure it won't discolor the masonry.
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Apr 20, 2023 15:40
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I came back home from a vacation a few weeks ago to find a small puddle of water at the bottom of my bathroom vanity. Maybe 1/4 cup or so. I dried everything off and checked for leaks. I found that there was moisture coming off the hot line where the pipe from the wall connected to the flex hose going to the faucet. I tightened this down just a little bit with a wrench, maybe 1/4 turn. Dried everything off, checked a few hours later, still dry. I checked again yesterday and it was wet to the touch in the exact same spot. I want to be sure to not overtighten that connection, but should I give it a little more oomph and tighten some more? It doesn't seem to matter if the hot tap is used or not. I don't know if any tape was used on the connection previously as I did not disassemble that connection. Is there anything else I might have missed?
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May 23, 2023 17:13
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My bathtub drain is worn and chipped and I want to replace it. I'm trying to find replacements, but how do I tell from looking (and hopefully without disassembling my current set up) whether I have the fine or coarse threads? I think this is tied to the diameter of the drain itself and if we are looking at 1 3/8 or 1 1/2 diameter. I believe that I will likely have to remove and replace the gasket, & use plumber putty, is there anything else I might be missing? Can I just use pliers to remove the drain, rather than needing a special wrench?
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Jun 5, 2023 14:21
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Does anyone have a good guide for creating/replacing a small 3-step set of stairs with a landing? I'm looking at my back steps, and originally I was just going to sand, paint/stain and reseal the boards, but looking closer, some of the boards appear to be shifting side to side. I haven't taken them off to see how bad it is yet, but the fact that I can nudge one of the boards back and forth by lightly kicking has me concerned. I also found that the railing is decorative(?!?!), as in it's just hollow vinyl, screwed into the boards. No support of any kind, no center post, and not even secured into the side of the house. If anyone were to lean against it, they would go quickly rear end over tea kettle and possibly onto or into my window well. Needless to say, I'm looking to fix all of that. Is this something that typically requires a building permit or inspection? It's roughly 3ft off the ground and the landing itself is maybe 4ft by 4ft. It is just the stairs to get into my house from the back door.
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Jun 12, 2023 15:28
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I'm repairing my deck and re-attaching a vinyl rail to the side of my house. The house has new (2 years) vinyl siding, and my father in-law who is helping, indicated that there is some kind of anchor that we would be able to use to secure the rail to the house. I'm picturing something like drywall anchors, but built for siding, but I haven't been able to find anything. Does such a product exist?
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Jul 5, 2023 14:26
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I'll try that, but let me ask an adjacent question. The siding is new, but the porch and railing existed in their current configuration before and after the siding was put on. If I recall correctly the railing was attached to the wall previously. That should mean that there's a pretty good chance that the stud should be near where the railing currently is, right? I'm still going to hunt and measure properly, but if I can use that as a starting point, it might make things a little easier.
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Jul 6, 2023 03:52
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TV Zombie posted:Can you explain what would hook into what? I'm a dunce. You have a single silver On the back side of your light fixture there are several mount holes that look like thermometers. The round parts are where the bold heads would slot into. Then you would twist or slide the fixture in such a way that the bolt heads slide into the straight part of said hole. This prevents the fixture from falling down. quote:Also, I don't know how to take the light fixture covering off so that I can clean out the ants that have collected and died near the light.
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Jul 19, 2023 17:12
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I just replaced the boards and stairs on my back porch with green treated lumber. My FIL who is very a knowledgeable and capable handyman, and helped me with the construction, said it would be about 6-8 weeks before I do the staining. This had something to do with the chemicals used to treat the wood. I trust his knowledge and expertise, but I question some of the logic. These boards are all stored at an outdoor lumber yard, and it's not like they were treated the day I picked them up. So what is the difference in them being screwed in place at my house vs being exposed to sun and rain at the lumberyard? Also, I was planning on installing the railing until after I could apply the stain, but as I'm typing this that feels like a very stupid choice. I'd also rather not install railing, wait, disassemble, stain, wait, re-assemble. I don't even know if that's the "best" way to go about it. If it makes any difference the porch is under 30 inches tall, though that might be a regional regulation.
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Jul 24, 2023 22:32
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OK. I'll try the water test this weekend because I did buy and cut it and store them on their ends a few weeks ago, but that was in my garage. I guess I'm just anxious to get this job completed.
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Jul 25, 2023 19:45
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I have a GE washer, model GTWN4250D1WS that's about 9 years old. For the past month or 2 if we wash two consecutive loads, there will be standing water in the tub on the second load only. A single load is fine, and if we do an extra spin cycle after the second wash, either as part of an automated routine (2nd spin option) or manually after the second wash cycle finishes, it will drain all the water away. If it were happening on every load I would assume that either the spin cycle is ending quicker than necessary to get all the water out. It doesn't seem to matter if we pile in clothes to stuff the washer full or if we only fill it half way. We do usually use the Auto-sense option to let the machine determine how large the amount of clothes is, but we've been doing that from the start and this issue only just started.
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Jul 28, 2023 03:41
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Blowjob Overtime posted:
IMO, tell the DNR anyway. Hazardous material was spilled on your property by a third party. You can make mention to them that the tree trimming company tried something, but that's not really on you. If they were actually responsible, they wouldn't try to keep it off the record. And are they doing that because they have a spotless record and don't want to sully it (lovely) or do they have many complaints on record already and want to avoid further penalties and fines (also lovely). The first "fix" didn't do anything positive, and if that's all they can think to do on their own, they need to get pros in there. Tell the power company too. It's not their fault that the spill happened, but they need to know that the company they are contracting out is causing a headache for the customers. You are a wronged party here. This is not a shithead-Karen situation where you tried to use an expired coupon or someone forgot the unicorn sprinkles on your morning frappe. Your property was damaged, and the steps to address it have been lacking, probably because the other party doesn't want to get in trouble with someone with real authority. I'm not suggesting a social media blitz, but make these people take responsibility. Someone is going to get bitten in the rear end at the end of this, and if you don't take proper steps, it might be you.
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Aug 29, 2023 14:27
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Sounds like a '60s dance. The meter is almost exactly the same as Boot Scootin' Boogie - Country Line dancin' my friend
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Aug 31, 2023 14:10
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I have a Frigidaire dishwasher that just started acting weird this morning. It's somewhere around 10 years old (guessing. It was here when we moved in). Usually when starting, I will hear water enter the tub, and then after maybe a minute the motors will kick on. I went to start it like normal this morning and it made a kind of chugga-chugga noise for 30 seconds, then did nothing/went silent. I didn't notice at first, but after a few minutes realized that things were quiet. I opened the door and everything looked normal. Pressed the start button again, same chugga-chugga noise then nothing. Repeat 3 or 4 more times, and then eventually it started like normal. I haven't been back home yet to check and make sure that the cycle completed, but will be going at lunch to check it out and see how things look. It might have done this once or twice in the past, but I might have chalked that up to hitting the button and heading out the door right away. If this is something where the machine needs to be replaced, I have heard that Bosch dishwashers are highly recommended, and worth the roughly double price tag. Is that accurate?
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Aug 31, 2023 18:21
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Motronic posted:That sounds a lot like what is typically a very simple repair on most units, the water inlet solenoid. Thank you, I'll check that out, enter model number when I get home. Just to be sure, I did a quick look, and I see Water Inlet valve, but nothing for solenoid. I imagine the solenoid is part of the valve, and it's all one piece?
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Aug 31, 2023 20:11
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:The bottom is covered with this black felt that seems pretty well stuck on there. Honestly, I'd just take a razor and work off the felt bottom. It's certainly glued on there, but it might be covering some kind of access panel.
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Sep 12, 2023 15:10
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