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Shumagorath posted:I'm planning to build this over the Easter weekend, but I'm stuck on either the 3080Ti for hypothetical 3x1 27" 4K 120Hz monitors I don't yet have, or a 3070/Ti (depending on availability) for my existing 3x1 1200p 60Hz set and upgrading the GPU when I replace them. You could save a decent chunk of cash rethinking your CPU cooler, case, optical drive, and fan selections. Ex. Noctua NH-D15S chromax.Black or Dark Rock 4 instead of the U12a. Or consider getting an external writer and smaller case so you don't have to worry about cooling the giant unused area that the drive cage occupies.
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# ¿ Apr 4, 2022 03:41 |
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# ¿ May 15, 2024 12:11 |
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Shumagorath posted:What does the cooler get me besides price? I thought the 12700 was crazy hot? Ditto with the fans - I'm loyal to Noctua but how much could I save at the same performance? If you're really worried about heat generation, the Deep Cool Dark Rock Pro 4 or Noctua NH-D15S chromax.Black are both cheaper and have better performance than the Noctua NH-U12A. quote:I liked working in the 7 XL for a friend a lot more than my own R5, and if I have top ventilation is that a huge concern? The 7 XL also allows sideways mounting of the GPU (assuming Fractal put a 4.0 bridge out). The issue with a big-rear end case is that you have a big-rear end volume that you need to move air around. You're going to fill what, one of those drive bays and everything else will be empty space? Sure, that will make the case "easier to work in", but it's not like you're re-building your computer every week. Why not an external housing for the drive and a smaller case, then?
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# ¿ Apr 4, 2022 04:10 |
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Shumagorath posted:Hmm, not a bad idea; I could run the drive up to my desktop. The NH-U12A's biggest strength is that it's compact and cools well for the size. You can get better (or at least similarly) performing air coolers for cheaper, but the tradeoff is that they'll be larger. Since you seem to favor larger cases anyways you can save some cash on your cooler and put it towards the GPU.
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# ¿ Apr 4, 2022 04:32 |
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Shumagorath posted:How re-usable are the thermal adhesives that come with motherboard M.2 heatsinks, or can I easily get new strips? I realized my M.2 slots are almost all out of the way of the GPU, and I could have bought the WD model with its own and used the stick-on one for the ADATA. All this does is simplify the drives' replacement in the event of their deaths, but I've also never used thermal adhesive and opted for silver paste going all the way back to my first ZIF chip. As long as you don't tear them and they still stick, they'll be fine.
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# ¿ Apr 16, 2022 18:54 |
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Shumagorath posted:As someone who just installed a D15S: Get the U12A if you're working in anything less than a full tower and can spare the extra fifty bucks. Getting the fan clips back on in a Torrent would have sliced me up good if I hadn't worn gloves, and even connecting the fan header was annoying. Auxiliary board power cabling will be a fun time, surely. Simpler solution: Attach the cooler before installing the motherboard in the case.
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# ¿ Apr 16, 2022 20:45 |
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Then pick it up with one hand on the cooler! It's not going anywhere, especially with Noctua's mounting hardware.
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# ¿ Apr 16, 2022 22:56 |
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bi crimes posted:Running FFXIV in 4k, my 2080RTX memory is sitting at 90C, with a hotspot max of 95C. That's probably making the smell! I swapped in my radeon RX 580 and there wasn't any smell. You're probably going to have to remove the cooler and install/re-install thermal pads on the memory. If you look online you should be able to find the correct thickness for the pads you need based on the model, otherwise you can try to measure it if you have a very accurate set of calipers. You'll also have to re-apply the thermal paste on the processor as old paste tends to become brittle, and removing the cooler will break the bond.
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2022 07:42 |
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Shumagorath posted:Fractal's fan controller wants me to plug the CPU HSF into it then plug the controller's wire into the CPU fan header, but there's no way the HSF will reach. I plugged the fan controller into CHA2 and everything is spinning but the RPM isn't getting through to the BIOS. Is that normal? It makes sense since between the 180mm and 140mm fans I'll have different speeds, but what will Qfan or Argus do? This is normal. RPM sensors send a pulse twice per rotation, and having fans with different rotational feeds will garble that signal to the point that it's unusable. Different software is unlikely to help because it all has to be read by the motherboard first anyways. A lot of PWM splitters only have a sensor pin on one output for this reason.
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2022 02:53 |
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Peachfart posted:So I'm getting close to purchasing a new build and I realized that I had an old case that was practically unused sitting around. It is old but would this case work? The case will work fine as long as you have decent fans. You'll also want to check the measurements of your chosen components, especially your CPU cooler height. You're probably going to end up with a lot of unused space since the case was designed to hold a bunch of 3.5" drives, but that's really only a problem if you have limited desk space. CoolCab posted:it's tricky, in theory the limiting factor is the opposite wall (for air at least). that looks like a pretty deep case but i can't find the specific value. it's really designed more for using an AIO, so a water cooling all in one with a radiator (240 it claims to support, so 2x120mm fans). a 240 AIO isn't super expensive i would say, but i am wary because SFF cases can be a gently caress. there's a dedicated thread for it if someone can't help you here. Call me crazy, but I think that when a case is called "Air 240", it was probably designed around using air cooling.
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# ¿ May 1, 2022 22:37 |
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Peachfart posted:Oh, I just realized I could reuse my current case. Duh. It is a Deep Silence 4, and fits CPU fans up to 160 mm, so the Scythe FUMA should work fine! Make sure you do some comparison shopping on that cooler, because $90+ for the Fuma 2 is really high.
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# ¿ May 2, 2022 23:51 |
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Super No Vacancy posted:I bought more fans S'okay, dude. I've got 8 fans stuffed in to an M-ATX case at this point
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# ¿ May 11, 2022 03:47 |
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CoolCab posted:more fans, more better (I added a 9th, just for fun)
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# ¿ May 11, 2022 04:10 |
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Rinkles posted:I think at a certain point you're just adding noise Screw you hippy, I do what I want! Fan nine was too noisy and I had to take it out.
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# ¿ May 11, 2022 17:06 |
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I physically unplugged the LED strip on my GPU. That works pretty well
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# ¿ May 19, 2022 18:49 |
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Agreed posted:A 12400 based build would be better. Was the ibuypower case 3-fan intake but solid-fronted mostly? It's even worse than you might think. With cases like that, the front fans often end up recirculating hot air coming off components, making thermals even worse. It's not so bad at the top of the case due to the vent, but it's generally pretty bad around the GPU. grack fucked around with this message at 03:00 on May 23, 2022 |
# ¿ May 23, 2022 02:04 |
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If you're using front intake fans: Putting a fan between the front intakes and the CPU cooler is counterproductive, as it will exhaust the cool air coming from the front of the case before it does anything useful. Putting a fan between the rear of the case and the CPU cooler as an exhaust is useful - the only thing there will be hot air from components.
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# ¿ May 24, 2022 03:49 |
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tehinternet posted:What about extra intake fans perpendicular to the front fans? I figure getting more cool air inside is good even if the direct flow to the CPU might be disrupted a bit As long as you're not exhausting the air before it reaches components it should be fine. Shumagorath posted:Cases uses to do the side mount at the GPU but I think mounting on the door was just a big pain. You also up the noise profile. I wish more cases would go back to side intakes. If it's implemented properly it's one of the best and easiest ways to cool a GPU. grack fucked around with this message at 07:54 on May 25, 2022 |
# ¿ May 25, 2022 07:52 |
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The case is also crap. You can get a Corsair 4000d Airflow for cheaper
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# ¿ May 26, 2022 18:47 |
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err posted:I've never installed case fans before. Three intake at the front One exhaust vertical at the back. One exhaust horizontal at the back. Do NOT put a top mounted exhaust at the front of the case. All you're going to do is exhaust the air coming in from the front fans before it reaches the CPU. It's at best pointless, and at worst it will negatively affect CPU temps. I'm also wondering why you're replacing the fans that came with your case. They're pretty good quality, and if you're not going to use them you should have just bought a cheaper case .
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# ¿ Jun 2, 2022 21:23 |
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Its that time posted:Here folks, got a general question before diving in the more serious hardware stuff. Memory Express and Canada Computers have good pre-builts/build services if you don't want to do it yourself.
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# ¿ Jun 3, 2022 19:22 |
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The most important thing to remember when building a computer is to remember to make the proper sacrifices to Chupaclops, the Mighty Spider, so that he will bless your build.
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# ¿ Jun 3, 2022 19:38 |
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Mu Zeta posted:Building the first time is not easy even if you watched 5 hours of Youtube tutorials like I did. It probably took me half a day to get mine up and running because I was nervous about the tiny wires and I had trouble with some screws on the motherboard. But my second build only took like 90 minutes and it's way easier now. Now I feel old, I built my first computer before Youtube existed. You know, the olden days Just to answer the obvious questions, YES we had cars, NO we didn't have to walk in front of them ringing a bell so they wouldn't scare the horses. They repealed that law a year prior.
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# ¿ Jun 3, 2022 23:43 |
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Shumagorath posted:I had a screwdriver slip while clipping a Thermaltake Volcano 2 onto the motherboard, because back then you just used a flathead to lever on a single latch instead of fastening the beautiful mechanisms we enjoy today. I did this on my first build. Scratched through a couple of traces around the socket and borked the M/B completely. Still able to exchange it, though.
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# ¿ Jun 4, 2022 01:40 |
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Racing Stripe posted:I’m building my girlfriend’s mom a pc using my old cpu, mobo, case etc. I looked in the old case and saw that the motherboard is still in place, which should save me a little time. But, should I expect to have to take it out to put new mounting hardware on for the cpu cooler? I’ll be using a different cooler, and I’m hoping that the bracket and stuff is all the same based on the socket not the cooler. Most cases have large cutouts in the motherboard tray that will expose the back of the CPU socket.
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# ¿ Jun 4, 2022 20:33 |
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Crimpanzee posted:My plan to reuse my old aftermarket cpu cooler is foiled because of course they had to changed the motherboard hole pattern. As a bonus the stock cooler that came with my 12400f absolutely will not mount to my motherboard. I can only get any two of the stupid plastic push ins to engage tenuously but no matter how much force I use I cannot get the other two in without the first ones popping out. Has anyone had this problem? MB is Asus prime b660. Stupid question - you're rotating the tops of the push pins once you have them through the board to lock the pins in place, right?
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# ¿ Jun 8, 2022 03:51 |
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CoolCab posted:i wonder, does the 24 pin goes in sideways maybe? like an itx case quirk. very weird they drew the sockets on one and not the other. No, because the extrusion that attaches to the clip on the cable will orient the plugs regardless, and those are drawn in on both sockets.
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# ¿ Jun 8, 2022 20:40 |
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Kite Pride Worldwide posted:I desperately need a new gaming computer but I'm a clueless rear end in a top hat regarding hardware beyond the most basic stuff, so I was planning on getting a pre-built, but my go-to local computer store seems to be out of commission for the foreseeable future. Anyone know of any good online deals (up to $2000) that would deliver to BC, Canada? I don't really have any specific needs or wants in mind, I just need something that isn't slamming against the wall of next-gen game requirements Memory Express or Canada Computers
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# ¿ Jun 14, 2022 17:47 |
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You could just mount the SSDs wherever you want with some double sided tape. They don't get hot and have no moving parts.
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# ¿ Jun 21, 2022 23:38 |
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wolfs posted:heyo - I bought a Ryzen 7 5800X3D. Virtually all replacement coolers will screw in to a backplate, either the original AM4 backplate supplied with the motherboard or a new one provided in the box. There's no reason to limit yourself to low profile coolers given the clearance you have available. The Scythe Fuma Rev. B is the default recommendation, but the Thermalright PA120 is also supposed to be quite good. They'll both fit in your case and both screw in to backplates for mounting.
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# ¿ Jun 23, 2022 02:32 |
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Here's a fun PC building issue from the "What the hell" Built myself a new computer in March with an i5-11400 and B560M. Worked fine up until about two days ago, when it suddenly refused to POST. Did all the normal troubleshooting steps I know - checked cables/plugs, used one RAM stick at a time in every slot, removed and remounted the cooler, removed the graphics card and tried IGP, clear CMOS, updated BIOS, removed everything but core components as well as checked the socket and contacts for damage. Finally I said "gently caress it" and installed a 10100F that I had laying around and the computer booted up fine. Contacted Intel support and they offered a warranty replacement, but asked that I set the RAM speed to 3200MHZ and tried rebooting It worked. I didn't even think of this because when I originally built my computer I enabled the XMP profile for the RAM I was using, which is 3600MHz. Turned out that after three months of running perfectly well, the slight overclock on the RAM (the 11400 only officially supports 3200MHz) caused the CPU to become unstable enough to prevent the system from completing the POST. Also, clearing the CMOS didn't fix the issue because for some reason it was defaulting to 3600MHz instead of 2133MHz. I didn't even think to check this because the 10100F booted just fine despite that chip only officially supporting 2666MHz. What a pain, but it's working. Learn something new every day, I guess grack fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Jun 27, 2022 |
# ¿ Jun 27, 2022 20:35 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqUanz860tg Yes, hiding 5.25" bays in shame is the best option. Also I watched the GN video and it's really weird that Fractal went to all the effort of adding colour variants but didn't give the fans a mode that actually matches those variants with the built in controller.
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# ¿ Jun 29, 2022 20:31 |
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Freakazoid_ posted:Well this hasn't made my case selection any easier. I don't know if one would be better than the other in stock configuration., but you could theoretically put a bottom mounted intake fan in the Focus G/G Mini that would feed air straight to the GPU. You'd have to remove the internal drive cage as well as be pretty disciplined about your cabling to make it work, though. Alternatively, replacing the front fans in the Pop Air seems to help (at least according the GN review), but it would end up more expensive over all.
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# ¿ Jun 30, 2022 17:11 |
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GiantRockFromSpace posted:PSU is a 850W BITFENIX Whisper M 80 + Gold Modular, motherboard is an ASUS TUF GAMING Z690-P D4.... and I'm gonna be honest, how do I know it has an antenna hooked up? Because I can't see anything like that on the old or new PC. The antenna should be external. If you can't see it, it's not hooked up.
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# ¿ Jul 2, 2022 19:01 |
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Scythe posted:I can't leave well enough alone and am thinking about building a second PC since I have two graphics cards, then repurposing my "old" one and/or selling it to a friend. You should probably pick a case first before you decide on cooling especially when you're bulding ITX. Something like a Cooler Master NR200 can support a reasonably-sized tower cooler that would work very well for a 12400.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2022 23:24 |
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SubjectVerbObject posted:So I got an I5 12400 and a MSI B660m-a pro. It has defeated me. I am unable to install the stock I5 cpu cooler. I have watched all the videos on installing the cooler - opposing sides, make sure the barbs are below the level of the motherboard, but I am coming to the point where I will damage something. I see other l1700 coolers available, but 60$ more eats into my budget. I got everything from Micro Center, so I am going to use their return policy. If you bought the parts from Micro Center you could probably ask someone there to install the cooler for you, especially if it meant not having to do a return.
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# ¿ Jul 12, 2022 03:03 |
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Your system bottleneck has changed from the GPU to the CPU when playing games, meaning the CPU is getting *much* higher utilization and thus a higher thermal load. The first thing to do would be to remove the cooler, clean the cooler and CPU, and re-mount the cooler using fresh thermal compound. The existing compound is probably rock hard at this point and not providing a good thermal interface. Alternatively, get a new CPU cooler because Intel's stock coolers are poo poo.
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# ¿ Jul 12, 2022 06:11 |
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Cable routing
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2022 04:03 |
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You should be fine, the temps are high but not terrible for running a stress test. If you're really concerned, get HWInfo and check the graph of CPU frequency when running something. That will tell you if your 12700K is thermal throttling, or at least not maintaining maximum boost.
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2022 17:28 |
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I went in a similar direction but in extreme other end of the price spectrum - I rebuilt my system in a Deepcool Mattrexx 55 Mesh (goddamn does Deepcool have stupid names for their products) that I picked up for $50 CDN. Didn't come with any fans, but I had plenty left over. It's got a lot of annoying "cheap case" features like punch out slot covers and a riveted hard drive cage, but it was astonishingly easy to build in. It's not a particularly large case, but there's a ton of room behind the motherboard tray and above the motherboard. It also supports 3x140MM front fans, which is great. The slots are currently populated by three Arctic P14s, two of which were left over from my old build. My system is basically whisper quiet now and even under gaming loads it's barely audible. The only issue I had, and it's a weird one, is that the case really needs more cable tie-down points.
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# ¿ Aug 3, 2022 17:44 |
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# ¿ May 15, 2024 12:11 |
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teagone posted:Which fan control software allows auxilary fan curves set to GPU temps? My mainboard BIOS pulls temp info from CPU and some other source, but no GPU Fan Control https://github.com/Rem0o/FanControl.Releases
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# ¿ Aug 3, 2022 18:43 |