|
DevNull posted:My wife was wanting to paint over it. She dropped the idea pretty quickly just from the look on my face when she said that. I'm stripping 100 years of paint, stains, varnish, and shellac off a fireplace mantle myself. Pretty much any product you can use, it looks like they've used. It's much darker than yours, but pretty much the only thing that's gotten the color to come out so far is a little heat and mineral spirits. I'm going to try using a wood cleaner, but I'm not holding my breath that it'll do much the mineral spirits didn't do. It did come up from a much darker brown to where I can see the grain again, but there's plenty of color left over that is not going to come out without sanding it down. I'm going to give it another 12 hours one of these days and see if Strip-X will bring it up lighter. I'd expect some of the color to stay regardless, but it did move quite a few shades lighter. It started a little darker than the color of the wood on the top part of your room.
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2017 17:30
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 21:51 |
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:I remember someone making a crib that when the kid grew out of it the long sides became the ends of a proper bed. I bought one that does just that. Except it's just a head board. It had adjustable height for the crib mattress too. It also came with a toddler bed front for three different sizes of bed.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2017 19:54
|
|
|
Magnus Praeda posted:Same. I'm real good at making strong, functional stuff but none of it is terribly attractive. I just watched the video that avatar is from last week. I will say that his videos give me confidence that I might actually be able to do things like hand cut joinery, but it might just not be that good for a while. I have about 4 boards of what I think is marked as maple that I picked up from an estate sale that I'm going to attempt to flatten and making into floating shelves for my kid to put toys and books onto, and to make my wife happy that there's something on that wall.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 14, 2017 06:54
|
|
|
Phone posted:If you search through my posts and ignore all of the bad ones (well most of them), you can see pictures of the knockdown Nicholson that GEMorris helped me with. https://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/09/18/materials-tools-for-the-knockdown-nicholson-workbench/ It's like you knew I was downstairs working on things and was frustrated with not having an efficient space to actually use to do things. That link is super useful, thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2018 22:40
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:He's been ranting pretty hard about any government VOC regulations for the last year or so. If his politics outside of health, safety & environmental regs is more socialist then great, but what I've read from him lately is more "don't tread on me" than anything. I would hope it's not about the VOCs, because those are just terrible for your health. I'd be more upset about not having a clue what's inside the product because it's not actually labeled in a way to give me any clue about what's in the can, the viscosity of it, or how it's going to spread/soak into the material. I feel like trying to find a decent finish for me right now is a bit like playing darts for the first time. I have a general idea of what to do, but I'm more likely to bury the dart into the wall than I am to hit the bullseye. In other words, I hate trying to figure out finishes because none of the words make any sense to me and they're just expensive enough that trying new things is not likely to happen often.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 25, 2018 20:41
|
|
|
So I built a side table/stool for my 4 year old. He picked the stain color, but it's not the worst thing in the world. First completed woodworking project since about 3rd grade when I built a super poo poo birdhouse (so poo poo that birds couldn't actually live in it). I got to learn all about fixing things that aren't lined up right, so that was fun. Turned out not too poorly, and it's even level and has a flat top. 
|
|
#
¿
Apr 15, 2018 15:04
|
|
|
That Works posted:This is cool. How's the kid digging it? He's super excited to have a table for next to his bed now. The poly is just finished curing, so hopefully it was even enough where it doesn't end up with water marks from his water bottle. I started pricing the lumber for the benches my wife wants next. Her benches will be no where near the ~$25 it cost to build this one unfortunately.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2018 21:46
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:Is Glidden considered bad? Because I've used it twice, and it struck me as monumentally lovely, but I'm a bad painter, so who knows. They are not particularly good. They're low cost paint, and low cost means less of the things that makes it a good paint. It's the paint you want to buy if you're painting a lot of walls about once every year or two. Sherwin-Williams is my favorite to use lately, and I'm in the middle of repainting every room in my house including trim and ceilings which were also in terrible shape. It's more expensive, but not terribly so for small projects. I'd still use a primer on new wood just because primer is cheaper than doing a second coat of paint and can replace that second coat.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 7, 2018 05:45
|
|
|
So at the end of May I liberated some Black Walnut from my parent's. It was in logs and was from trees that my dad had cut down because they were doing that thing that walnut does and killing everything around it. He also took down a ton of American Buckthorn, but that was in less useful state. Anyway, I took three walnut and one buckthorn logs that were between 2-3' long and have been working them into useful state. They were stored outside in the wood pile, so I was dealing with some rot and one walnut was completely trashed. The other two were pretty nice, and aside from some splitting in the ends, they were fairly dry and workable. So work them I did.  I've never done anything with my hands quite this much, and the chiseling made me hate my chisels, but that's to be expected when they're some cheap set I purchased from Harbor Freight. They hold an edge okay, but their construction gets in the way quickly enough after the blade, so I had to work around that. It's not perfectly straight, but it is useable as a mallet. That's good enough for me, and I'm making a second one and a cutting/serving board from the rest of the walnut and expect that it will get better with practice. The maybe 5' of buckthorn will probably get turned into a napkin holder or serving board as well. It was in worse shape than the walnut, so I don't know if I'll get much or anything out of it.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 22, 2018 18:10
|
|
|
Spring Heeled Jack posted:Sorry but unless you spend all of your free time trolling eBay for auctions, there’s no way to get a Stanley router plane for that price. I consistently saw auctions ending for $100+ of varying quality, which is the main reason I ended up going with the veritas. Truth. I've been looking for a #4 for 6 months and anything that looks decent quality ends up in the $75+ price range for sure. The most useful purchase I've made is a #5 Stanley I bought from a local furniture maker for $120, but it was fully tuned and only needed a cursory sharpen before the first time I used it. I did however find a Stanley #52 spokeshave that I managed to win for $15 and it's been fun adjacent trying to tune it up. If that lot of 15 doesn't shoot up over $200-300 I might bite, but I wouldn't be surprised if it gets pretty expensive. It looks like a lot of work to tune those up, but I'm getting better at that part too and moving from hand sharpening kitchen knives to chisels and plane blades was surprisingly easy. I managed to make a cheapo set of home depot chisels sharp, they're just not any good at holding the edge because they're cheap (and also probably because I was using them on apple wood). In any case, like any other hobby it's going to end up being what works for a particular person. So I listen to advice and then still have to decide for myself what I'm going to try and it usually comes down to budget and what I'm making next. At the end of the day, have fun and don't forget to use your personal protective equipment.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2018 02:33
|
|
|
go for a stroll posted:
It was going to happen eventually. The color change looks great.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 27, 2018 00:47
|
|
|
Feenix posted:72 hours of a point-blank fan over my smelly charcuterie board. I mean, I think it smells IMPROVED, but it could be my mind playing tricks on me. How long should I expect to run air over it before I realize it's not the solution I seek? You put a lot of stuff onto it, and you've done a lot of sanding etc. It's probably just going to take longer than you expect to stop off gassing. I had a stool that I expected to be done in a week and it took well over a month. It helped that I moved it to a warm place with good ventilation, but aside from that it was mostly just the time. Mine was just a standard stain/poly sanded to 220. One thing I've found is that the more I try to mess with things, the longer it takes to actually turn out.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 3, 2018 22:46
|
|
|
I can see why people don't enjoy them. It's as much about the experience of working the wood as it is anything else and a CNC can feel like cheating. Definitely a place in the world for them, but I won't have room for one and I  my expendable income in other ways. I'm also still very new at this woodworking thing, so it's far out of my needs.I'm building a bench out of douglas fir, because my wife likes dark finishes and wants it shou sugi ban for finishing. I'm doing maybe two new things on the whole bench, but just scaling up from a small project to something notably larger (it's only 48" long...) is proving to need enough problem solving. It's also going to test my ability to cut things very straight, and a table saw is only good for the regular cuts it would be good at making. Luckily, I stumbled into being able to hide a lot of the joinery where the legs meet the bench. It's definitely not perfect, but it's much better than the last time I tried anything like it. And I'm getting better at cutting straight lines. It's a very rewarding project.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2018 13:40
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:I am not sure why but after 20 something years the table saw is still the one machine I have a fear/respect mindset when I walk up to it. Right there with you. So is my nine-fingered grandfather. Healthy respect for table saws is important.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2018 16:05
|
|
|
 I finished a bench. It was my first time hand cutting any real joinery, but in the end I got it to fit well enough. Finished by charring the wood with a propane torch, cleaning the surfaces, then tung oil. I'm moderately happy with it. I learned a lot by doing it, so the next project will use more expensive wood (so not pine/fir). Nonvalueadded User posted:[...]I find it intimidating and am now going to burn all my projects and tools so no one ever has to lay eyes on them again.[...] Me too. But I'm building things anyway. Hopefully the worst thing that happens is I have to buy another part of a dead tree.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2018 19:26
|
|
|
@spikes32. I did a side table for my son’s room out of pine with a golden stain. Your wood should hopefully be old enough you don’t need to worry about sap pockets causing splotchy, but I used a pre-stain wash to even it out. Worked fine and I don’t have any inconsistencies. The golden stain turned very yellow with some orange. Didn’t work for my taste, but my son liked the color he picked. Phone posted:drat, that looks great.  I hesitated to call it that because I’m using fir and not Japanese cedar, but it was fun using a very large blowtorch. Well, once I got my flame dialed in at least. It turned out more red than I expected, but it works. Next time I’ll try whatever cedar I get in the US because I think it would look nice. I’m wishing I’d finished my picnic table like this, but I’m not sure I want to try to manage moving a 10’ table around for firing.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2018 05:58
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:Cool, thanks. Will it cause any complications with eventual sanding/staining/finishing? I was just looking it up because I have 6' of maple that I need to deal with. I figured I could take a few rounds before cutting the rest into short boards for something. My sisters are both really into the live edge finish right now, and the tree was cut down on family land, so it would make a nice gift if I can managed to keep it from splitting. quote:Once the wood is dry, it can be sanded, stained, wood burned, glued and finished (sealed). We recommend using oil or alcohol based stains, dyes and sealers as water based products may not dry properly and leave the surface of the wood tacky. Pentacryl™ will not discolor the wood, is non-hygroscopic and will not oxidize, decompose or migrate in the wood when exposed to different degrees of temperature and relative humidity. To determine how much Pentacryl is needed for your project, use our Wood Calculator.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 10, 2018 19:33
|
|
|
Feenix posted:I kinda tested some shou sugi ban about a month ago and I got some wire brushes recently and scrubbed it well. How I stopped when I couldn't rub any char off with my hand and a cloth. It seems traditional for you to use oil to finish as well, but I don't see any reason it couldn't be waxed too. I used tung oil and it turned out great. I sanded prior to the charring and not after the wire brushes because I didn't want to change how the char looked on the grain. Whatever you do, make sure it's drat clean and the char doesn't mix with whatever finish you use. I can imagine that if you don't, it won't finish nicely. That was successful for me in the finishing area, and the bench is used in the bathroom so my 4y son can reach the switch and have something to put clothes on and use to change. It's used daily and has some great definition to the grain.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2018 02:46
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:wow, very doable. We did exactly this for my dad last weekend. Got a nice 6' long slab out of the black walnut, but it wasn't stored well and could have had three if it hadn't been left where it was. We got three out of the apple, which was similarly not stored well, but held up so much better. Very beautiful, about 4' long and 2.5-3' wide. We definitely wished we had a guide for the chainsaw though, so get one so that you have a fighting chance at cutting in a straight-ish line.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2018 04:06
|
|
|
Can someone point me to a good way to clear fill cracks in some maple? I'm turning some off cuts of this tree that I'm cutting up into little things and have some checks to contend with. They look cool, and they're just decorative pieces, so I just want to fill them before I finish them. Here's the puzzle I get to put together now for an end grain cutting board. I'll may use some walnut for an edge, but I might use some more maple and use the walnut for another cutting/serving board. 
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2018 19:04
|
|
|
Phone posted:Resin/epoxy? Can you be more specific? I'm having a hard time sorting through the options.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2018 19:07
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:is this for turning on a lathe or filling to make gaps disappear? Does it need to be food safe like for a cutting board? Do you want it clear or to take a finish? I just want something that I can put in clear to keep the wood from splitting entirely if someone were to bump it or something. I'll probably do the finish with oil, and it doesn't need to be food safe. Do you have any suggestions for a resin that might look good or at least a place to start? I've not looked at those before. I may end up going with the super glue like Kaiser suggested too. Everytime I use an epoxy for it, it never turns out very nice and it just ends up cloudy even if I polish the ever living everything out of it like I see people do in youtube videos. The bonus pic is of a cutting board that I haven't done anything but cut pieces. They don't fit well together, so I have to find the best configuration and get the fit nice and tight before I even think about glue for that. The little stocking stuffer projects are from excess pieces from making the cuts for that board. I don't have any checking in the pieces for the cutting board, it's in the offcuts from it though. It is dry, and I didn't have a chance to coat the ends as this was stored in my parent's garage 4 hours away.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2018 21:12
|
|
|
That's some pretty wood and you can't beat the prices.Feenix posted:I did a shou-sugi-baby-sequel (ahaha autocorrect! I’m leaving it! Shoulda been ...ban-esque ,) burn on a little tray I’m making. I’ve bristle brushed out the loose carbon and sanded it to 220. It does not leave any coal or discoloration on my hands when I rub it I used Tung Oil on my shou sugi ban bench. It absorbed like oil does on everything else. I'd use anything that was just oil, and BLO or Mineral Oil should both work fine. I then used a wax to give it a light sheen on top. From what I've read (not Schwarz!) the oil is traditional and the wax is just what I've done.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2018 16:31
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:I have been keeping it in the project thread but electricity is a fine woodworking utility My only sadness in that video is you didn't show the result. That's really cool otherwise.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 14, 2018 21:55
|
|
|
Those are just super cool and the bright colors just make it pop.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 15, 2018 04:39
|
|
|
Hasselblad posted:Here's a task: Let's say you have a piece of maple burl previously cut into a disk shape, 15" wide and 5" thick. You want to cut it in half, creating 2 disks. Using a handsaw to cut down large pieces of maple into the sizes I need or are more manageable for other tools is what I've done in the last few months. I don't have a bandsaw or a chainsaw, but aside from using a chainsaw with a guide, I couldn't think of a better way to do it. I have a bunch more to do that isn't ready for using, but I think I'll just buy a nicer hand saw or go ask to use my neighbors bandsaw sometime.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 15, 2018 16:26
|
|
|
Hasselblad posted:The one thing keeping me from making my workbench is lack of a (proper) workbench. I have to laugh when I watch youtube videos of people making awesome (and cheap!) workbenches, and the people making them have awesome benches to build them on and tens of thousands of dollars of power tools to plane/sand/join, etc. I've been making that excuse too, but I need to stop and just pick up the wood for it. Mostly it's been not having a good way to get the lumber to my house, but I just need to get off my butt and rent a truck from home depot for an hour and pick up the wood from the lumber yard (that is not home depot).
|
|
#
¿
Dec 18, 2018 18:30
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:An awful lot of cars can fit a few 8'-long 2x6s inside the cabin, if you recline the front passenger seat and maybe remove the headrest. Opening the front-right and back-left windows/doors can help give you the room to back-and-forth the boards until they're inside. Source: I drive a Honda Civic and routinely use it to move small amounts of lumber. That said, capacity is somewhat limited and you'll get your seats dirty unless you put down a tarp or something. My car is 15 years old and the most common other passenger is a dog so whatever. I can fit 8' boards up to 2x10, but I almost always have a car seat and 5 year old in the way to do more than a half dozen boards. :/ I also need a lot of stuff to build a bunch of shelves for a basement and replace a small fence, so it makes more sense to just rent a truck for an hour and pick up some stuff at the lumber yard that's only a few minutes away. Whole thing should take an hour, but I have to just go and do it.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 18, 2018 19:11
|
|
|
My wife would love this table exactly like you've finished it. I wouldn't care for that finish myself. The construction is beautiful. There's nothing wrong with oak looking like oak, but I always smile when people do such contemporary things with it. It just doesn't want to be contemporary.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 19, 2018 07:27
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Nobody seems to want mahogany any more which is a shame. It’s my favorite wood to work with, to finish, and to look at by far. I can’t wait until all this industrial/minimal/Pottery Barn/Restoration Hardware/shabby poo poo goes out of style and traditional neo-classical revival Good Taste returns and I can get back to making 4-poster beds all day. It's funny you say that, because I'm working up the courage and ability to tackle making a pair of mahogany slat benches. They're based on a 1940's Brazilian modernist design, concurrent to the Nelson platform bench, but with thicker slats and 2 solid legs holding the slats with box joints basically. Mahogany and maple are really what I love in furniture.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 19, 2018 20:11
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:It is interesting to see the change in Woodworking due to the internet. When I was young and first learning it was all "apprentice" style learning and very much regional. I would talk to one set of woodworkers and be shown a way to do something and then be told I am doing it wrong by another. We're all doing it wrong. Really, it's like any hobby. It's all about perspective. I hand cut some mortise and tenons for a bench and my dad was just impressed. He wasn't sure why I would, but at least my brother wasn't confused. It's because a set of decent Irwin chisels are $20 and that routers and drills are a lot more expensive. I got the green light yesterday to build a coffee table for the living room. I may try to pleasantly surprise my wife with wood choice (she does love her oak), instead of the fir/pine she thinks I'm going to use. Anyone have any early modern coffee table furniture that you like, or a good place for me to look to be inspired from? I don't need plans, just ideas. I may not be amazing with hand tools, but I'm good enough at drawing the design part at least.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 20, 2018 18:05
|
|
|
Huxley posted:After Jennie Alexander passed, her estate did a sell off from her library and I spotted this book in a pile. I picked it up on Amazon for about $6. I just bought a copy of this for $10. It looks cool, and I end up working with pine and fir frequently enough that I thought it would be fun. I may also be obsessed with books.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 20, 2018 19:30
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Didn’t someone around here recently use Odies Oil and not have a great time with it? It has suddenly showed up in all the ads on my social media etc. and it all seems just too good to be true for an oil/wax blend. Not to mention all their ranting about the dangers of scary, deadly, carcinogenic solvents like naphtha and ethanol. Their MSDS/SDS just says it is a solvent free blend of FDA approved food safe oils and waxes but doesn’t list any ingredients like SDSes usually do. Lots of Instagram videos in clearly a commercial shop of folks running wide belt sanders and straight line rip saws with no hearing or eye protection aren’t exactly reassuring either. According to my resident regulations expert, they only need to even have an SDS if they have hazardous ingredients. Under under Section 3, they don't. I'm not sure why they wouldn't tell woodworkers what they're using except for it being a marketing ploy to buy their product. I've used a food grade mineral oil/wax blend (that stuff for cutting boards and butcher's block in the big box stores) on other things and it did coat quickly and evenly. It's just food grade mineral oil, beeswax, and carnuba wax. I bought one little thing of it and it's taken me through a bunch of smaller projects. I liked it because it soaks quickly, I can just give it a buff out (and then use more wax if I want), but mostly I can use it when my kid is around without worrying about solvents. I imagine the Odie's is about the same as the 12oz squeeze bottle I bought.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2018 16:21
|
|
|
Super Waffle posted:So I want to build a cabinet/shelf for my new (vintage) audio system/Hi-Fi. Anything I should keep in mind with regards to cooling and proper airflow? I got a vintage Technics amp from the 70's with passive cooling and a vent on top; how much clearance should I leave above it to properly cool? You're probably better asking in a hifi thread, but what kind of amp it actually is will make a huge difference. I had a friend years ago who had Russian tube amps for his as expensive as a nice car speakers and they could heat half of his basement apartment when they were on. I'm guessing yours won't get as hot, but you can always put vents in the back to keep airflow happening and a couple inches above it should be okay. But I could be wrong because I don't know what amp you have or how hot it gets. Try turning it on for a while and then using an infrared thermometer to take it's temp. That should give you a better idea of what you'll need for airflow.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2019 15:54
|
|
|
That is one fine looking chair.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2019 19:38
|
|
|
Blistex posted:Yeah, but it depends on the climate. Someplace that's pretty dry, it will last decades. A humid place with lots of wet/dry cycles will rot it out in about 10 years. If you treat it with some sort of stain or clear coat, you can keep it around forever with proper maintenance. The most important trick that I have learned is that you never expose end-grain facing up (like posts/rails, etc) and if all possible when doing a deck, screw/fasten it from the bottom so that you don't have nails or screw heads letting water penetrate the wood. I built a picnic table out of cedar (my first real woodworking project), and used a transparent finish on it to help with the water. I think it was https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Pr..._-100112585-_-N Aside from all the other crap that I don't like about how I built the thing*, the finish went on really easily and has been holding up well. I'll throw another coat or two on this next summer and then I'd go every other year or so depending on how it's looking. *Pocket screws into soft cedar don't like to sit where you want them to sit exactly. And the angles on the bench supports don't match the table and it bothers the crap out of me.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2019 15:58
|
|
|
life is killing me posted:Lol yeah a couple times, realized it within a second or two though. The good news is you can buy cheapo 2x4s from anyplace that sells lumber. My local big box stores sell 8' stud grade 2x4 for a little over $2. Sure, it's a little wet and can have a ton of knots, but if you search through the pile a little bit you might find something decent. It's just cheap enough where you can buy enough to make a stool or small bench and not have to tell anyone because it was less than my wife spends on coffee in a week. Maybe your wife doesn't drink coffee, so you'll have to find your own comparison.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2019 15:23
|
|
|
taqueso posted:Then, every 5 years or when you completely run out of space, clean it out and wonder why you were keeping all this crap. Followed by wishing you hadn't cleaned it up for a few months when you need 'that piece I know I put over here the other day'. That's exactly what happens with everything in my life. ... I know I had that one letter with the thing and the other thing, and I put it right there two months ago ... I need to clean up my usually unnecessary stuff more often. I finally cleaned up and assembled the blocks I made for an end grain cutting board from maple, and now I'm hand sanding it because my planes just try to leave gouges and I don't have anything electric but an orbital sander that doesn't seem to work half as fast as just doing it by hand. It ended up fitting together okay, in so much that there was only one small gap that needed filling. I ended up with 3/4" board in the end, which is not the 2" I was wanting, but it will be useful. Many lessons learned I guess.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2019 19:46
|
|
|
moron izzard posted:it aint waste if that tree was just gonna rot on the ground or get mulched by the city anyway I use my shavings and saw dust in my compost. Unless it's walnut, because I want my plants to grow. The walnut plane shavings end up as mulch for my walking paths where I don't want things growing. It doesn't really help because it doesn't degrade very quickly. Basically, I don't do enough woodworking to have a problem with getting rid of the waste. Even the offcuts and scrap is usually a wood that's okay for using in the grill or smoker because I don't buy treated lumber. Is it really most wood that's bad for horses? I thought it was the walnut again that was just bad for them.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2019 20:17
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 21:51 |
|
|
Mostly 82 degrees for screws. Some are 90 degrees though, so know what you're buying I guess? I have a couple of those Buck brand planes from Home Depot and they're not particularly good. I just turned them into scrub planes to take off bulk material and they work okay for less precise work. They don't really compare to the old Stanley I have in terms of comfort and use. Have you tried eBay if you're not finding anything local?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 24, 2019 15:28
|
|