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The other thing with hardwood, they can be sanded and refinished several times. I would argue wood is more fixable than vinyl. Vinyl isn't bad, it's just another option. I think if I were looking for alternates to wood, and the budget allowed, I might look at wood look tile. I'll say this, in most of the homes we looked at when buying, all the houses that screamed "HGTV inspired quick and dirty flip" all had lvp of varying quality. It was usually some shade of gray. I assume it's a great choice because it looks well enough, especially for home buyers who are only in the home for a few minutes, it's easy to put down, and it's affordable. One house had a 3" high seam bubble that they hid under a comical shag rug, beneath an ottoman. I left the ottoman slightly out of place exposing it. There were several places that you could tell the subfloor wasn't flat/even because the flooring would flex when you walked. That's nothing against lvp, more against poo poo installers.
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Apr 22, 2022 02:43
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I'm a big fan of having hard surfaces in the home (wood/laminate/tile etc) with rugs on top. You get the visual option and practical durability of a hard floor but you can add a soft/warm rug somewhere that you want it. From a design perspective, rugs can add a lot of character to a room and create a focal point, or they can just be boring colors and blend in. You can add padding beneath them, you can clean them, you can swap them out easily. When you have hardwoods/tile throughout your house, you might feel like they get dirty more often. Its just that the dirt has nowhere to hide. In carpet, the dirt just sinks into the fibers. Vacuuming will only pick up so much. At least on hardwoods you can remove most/all of it. You can take rugs outside and beat them. You can deep clean them. I grew up in carpeted houses and didn't like it. My parents smoked in the house for a while. I grew to hate carpet because I feel like its a giant air filter that just traps smells and dirt. Also if you want to talk about waste, I think carpet is super wasteful. Lots of material to create a roll of carpet that might have a 20 year lifespan and just gets trashed. Plus the padding. God I hated helping family rip up carpet.
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Apr 27, 2022 22:05
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actionjackson posted:okay i think my building might be haunted Do you have a tree nearby? Maybe its sticks or acorns falling onto your roof. It could be branches swinging if they're close to the house. Have you looked around your house to see for pests like rodents? It definitely sounds like an impact vs a house just shifting and hearing joints popping/expanding. The best way of finding out is to really try and pinpoint where the sound is coming from. Use a stethoscope or even just put a drinking glass to your ear to see if you can hone in on its location. Also check that its only happening in that same location. Does it come on or get worse if you run water ... nearby? Maybe a pipe isn't very secure and moves around when the water is turned on/off. Another option, maybe its a vent of some sort opening and closing? Do you have a dryer vent that automatically closes when the dryer shuts off? Comedy option, just live with the ghosts. In a market full of waived inspections and full cash offers, I would easily live with some haunted poo poo as long as the house was clean and structurally sound. Also, depending on your area you might be legally responsible to disclose knowledge of any ghost, spirits, or apparitions.
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Apr 29, 2022 22:49
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Motronic posted:The biggest problem with having soft-close toilet seats is that you absolutely will start slamming toilet seats everywhere that does not. Soft close seats are incredible. Nicer thick plastic vs wood every time. And yes if this ain't the truth. I can always tell who has a soft close at home when they drop a seat.
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May 9, 2022 21:52
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Casimir Radon posted:So I have a rough sawn beam that spans the ceiling of my living room and some previous owner went and painted it. What’s a good way of stripping the paint so I can properly stain it? I've got the same thing. You might want to try and find a section that isn't painted, maybe in a closet or something, just to see if it is actually natural wood grain or if it was stained/painted another color when installed. Mine, confirmed by my neighbors identical house, was painted brown upon install, which I think might have been to protect the wood from moisture because my beams go from my center beam to my eaves outside. Then my POs painted them white at some point during their early 90s reno. I really want to go back to natural wood but the process would be laborious and a huge pain in the rear end. I've heard mixed things. Chemical strippers are stinky and messy and they don't always get great results. Sanding is really messy and takes a while. You'll go through lots of sand paper gumming it up with paint and or stain. A heat gun should allow you to melt and scrape the paint, leaving it bare enough that a final sanding should be able to get it back to natural wood with a smooth finish. If it's stained, your best bet might be a heat gun.
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May 10, 2022 04:15
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Harriet Carker posted:I’m moving out of my (rented) apartment and I ripped the drywall when removing some adhesives that were supposed to come off easily. Oops! I don’t have time to fix it. What do you all think a rough estimate to patch and fix with matching paint? Just want to make sure my landlord doesn’t try to stick me with trumped up charges. A rental you say? Have you tried toothpaste? Jk. Call and ask your landlord if they plan to repaint. If so, you could always just slap some mud on it, sand it and leave it. They might not charge you. If you're worried about them charging you, go the extra step and get a color match and paint it. The whole thing might take you an hour. Since you said you can't do the work, maybe they'll charge you $100? Off your deposit ... Depends on what kind of landlord you have. If they're going to nickel and dime you, maybe more. If they're cool, they probably won't at all. Besides, it's not like they're going to hire a drywall pro to do such a small job. It's easily doable by a handyman or painter who might be in the place between tenants anyway. If you owned it, I would suggest fixing it correctly but since it's a rental who cares.
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May 24, 2022 03:51
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I finally stepped foot into my local tool library today. Holy poo poo what a cool place. $50 suggested donation to become a member. They host classes on all kinds of topics, have a wood shop you can book for private use, lots of tools and other stuff. Yard, auto, general diy, etc. Super awesome place. 
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Jun 1, 2022 08:17
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VelociBacon posted:What country? US, Seattle. I moved to my neighborhood about a year ago when we bought our first house. I drove by this place often on my way through the neighborhood but they keep odd hours and I didn't have a specific reason to go in. I've already got a good deal of tools, but being a new home owner comes all sorts of new projects I'm not equipped for. There's a certain amount of tools I want to own because they get used often, but I don't want to invest in things I might only use once or twice, like a pex crimper or a tile saw. The only thing is all their powered tools are all battery or corded electric, no gas. I needed a tiller for redoing my yard and all they had was a small plug in which would have been a huge pain. I ended up finding a good deal on a husqvarna for what it would have cost me to rent for a weekend. Overall I think its going to be great when we start to redo the house in the next few years and I'm honestly surprised this isn't more of a thing.
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Jun 1, 2022 18:52
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Phil Moscowitz posted:This is awesome, is that a one time donation? Do you check stuff out or use it there only? It's a one time suggested donation. You can always donate more or less if you want. They're also accepting of tool donations and volunteering. When you check tools out, you get them for a full week. You can extend tools if someone hasn't requested/wait listed it. They have late fees but it sort of sounds like they're very lenient about forcing any payment. Also tools are free to use. No real limit on what you can borrow at once. They've been open for 10+ years from what I recall. The place is busy every time they're open. Lots of community engagement, lots of volunteers who all seem incredibly patient, outgoing and willing to help with whatever you need. They operate as a non profit so making money isn't their thing.
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Jun 2, 2022 07:39
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El Mero Mero posted:I am now looking at the before and after photos and I am like "I did all that work and my kitchen now looks 10% better in a way that pretty much only I can tell because I look at it all the time" Homeowner: A villain origin story This is how it starts. You want to do the right thing, the right way and after an entire weekend of tedious labor you finish only to realize you will be the only person who will ever notice. With each job you take more shortcuts. Before you know it you're using MDF in ground contact situations, slapping caulk over anything that leaks, and pushing romex wires right into the back of the outlet vs using the screws, using toothpaste to fill drywall holes.
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Jun 7, 2022 23:14
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:I was talking w an older remodeler today who was telling me that he’d glue AND screw the Sheetrock in place, using construction adhesive. Claimed it prevented nail pops. So, aren't nail pops only associated with ... you know ... nails? I'm no expert drywaller but at some point drywall went from being installed with nails (my 1955 house has nail pops in the drywall), to drywall screws because screws don't back out like nails do. Part of me wants to think this guy was laying drywall back in the day when nail pops were still a thing but then carried that trick over to when they were using screws as habit. I would hate to remodel a house where the drywall was liquid nailed to the studs. I can only imagine removing drywall and nails only to have to also scrape adhesive/drywall chunks off the studs.
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Jun 14, 2022 00:09
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nwin posted:I know very little about plumbing but the previous owner redid the downstairs half bath. To me this looks janky as poo poo, but maybe because I’ve never seen it before (flex pipe, using some kind of thread pvc instead of pvc cement). I'm no plumber either but that looks shoddy. You could easily use regular PVC and have more durable pipes/connections that aren't going to trap stuff in the riffles. That looks like someone didn't feel like taking another trip to the hardware store.
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Jun 21, 2022 01:49
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I made the decision to buy an ac unit this spring in preparation for the summer heat. Seattle hit 90 this weekend and I was happy to have already had this sitting in my garage. The instructions were far more complicated than they needed to be. It's a sliding window specific model so it installed slightly different than the traditional window units I've installed before. Not to mention my window track and sill was different than the instructions referred to. Regardless I made it work and my bedroom is a cool 68°. I also got all my foundation vents re framed and screened with new mesh and wells installed. We also had two painters come by to take a look at the house for bids. I'm genuinely curious to see how high they are and if I bite the bullet and do it myself. The first two weeks of nice weather and my house list is getting checked off quickly.
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Jun 27, 2022 07:17
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Harriet Carker posted:Did you do this yourself? I need to as well - any recommend tutorials? I suppose it’s probably pretty easy but not sure where to start. Not really. Mine are just square holes in the concrete foundation, internally framed with wood, and covered in steel mesh. My wood was rotting so I removed it with a pry bar. It's easiest to remove the sides first, then the top and bottom. Once the wood was out, I had to cut the nails that were used to hold the original wood in place since it would block the new pieces from getting into place. I replaced it with 5/8 cedar board which seems to be the same as what was in there originally. IIRC my vents are 5-1/2" deep but I could be wrong. Measure the width of the opening and cut it so it fits slightly snug in the hole but not super tight. You should only have to slightly tap it into place. Cut the top and bottoms first and put them in place. Now measure the height for your side boards. The side pieces will wedge in between the top and bottom boards, supporting the top piece. You still likely need to tap these in as well. They should also be snug and the whole thing will stay pressure fit together. Once in, you can toenail some small nails to ensure the boards stay together. Then measure the mesh to match the outside dimensions of the frame, cut and staple it to the wood frame. I didn't have vent wells and the PO brought the soil level right up to the vents (which is why my vents were rotted). I dug about a foot down, (height of the wells), placed some landscaping fabric down to keep weeds out, and dropped the wells into place. They were pretty easy to install. Thankfully my DeWalt drill has a hammer setting and I have masonry bits. When in place, mark the spots to drill the holes to secure the well to the foundation. I drilled them at a slightly upwards angle so water wouldn't collect inside the drill hole for any reason but I doubt it will make a difference. Secure with masonry screws. Put some rocks in the bottom of the vent well for drainage, and keep the level lower than the vent itself. Then backfill the outside of the well to the ground level.  They look kind of ... utilitarian but we're getting the house painted soon and I might address visual appeal after that. I might paint the steel mesh (to match the house) and maybe add a small piece of molding edge around the vents. I think the metal wells will match what we're doing with the house anyway.
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Jun 27, 2022 19:37
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My company has a lot of science/research lab space and I will say that they get dirty very quickly. Without some sort of texture/grain etc you will notice water stains/salt stains, etc on them much more often. Our labs have a lot of white stains on them, not exactly sure why but we're not using any crazy chemicals or anything. They also only use highly concentrated alcohol to clean them but they never seem to get clean. I love the look of dark counter tops and I really like alternative materials but I finally understand why people like light colored countertops with multiple colors and textures, and why hotel carpets are always crazy multi colored patterns because it hides imperfections and stains. If you're like me and always want show room cleanliness, black surfaces are about the most difficult to keep looking that way.
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Jul 7, 2022 21:40
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I think I'll be buying, borrowing or renting a sprayer to paint my exterior. My house is only 1200 SQ foot, a single story 1955 ranch with a very mellow roof pitch. I'll only need a short ladder to reach the peak of my roof on the end of the house. I could do the two long sides completely on foot. We got two quotes for exterior paint. First was $9k saying it would take a full week. $12k if they refinish our clear cedar eaves. The other was $6k and said 3-4 days. No eaves refinished. So to save a few thousand dollars ... I'll likely paint my house. I get an employee Sherwin Williams discount from a family member so paint will likely be around $500. I over estimated square footage for coverage and I think it will take 7 gallons for paint and 2 gallons for trim, for two coats each. My cedar siding is already painted (tested and not lead) but it's in really good shape and I'll need to wash it before iscrape/prep a few small areas. I expect it to take me a few days to a week. Prep and masking is going to be a huge part of it. I'll have to mask off the entire underside of my eaves to protect the t&g cedar. I'll probably regret this decision by day 2 when I've scraped and sanded, and my masking plastic has blown into my neighbors yard and the sprayer is broken, and there's footprints all over my yard.
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Jul 13, 2022 17:40
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Exterior painting question. I've got cedar vertical channel rustic siding. It overlaps each plank similar to tongue and groove but with a channel between the planks for aesthetics.   Wood is in good shape. I'm prepping for paint and in the scrape/sand/caulk phase. Should I caulk every seam? That would be ~180 feet around the house of 10' high siding (14 peak at the ends), 2 seams per foot running vertically. It seems excessive but if it's the right thing to do, I'll do it. Currently it doesn't appear caulked, but the paint looks to have filled most of the gaps. The seams are vertical and we don't really get driving rain here in Seattle. My eaves hang over about 5-6' so the siding stays pretty dry when it's raining. Part of me really wants to just wash and paint but I can't let myself shortcut. I know prep will make it last longer and look better.
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Jul 23, 2022 01:21
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Motronic posted:Are you sure? No offense, but that looks a whole lot like a modified version of T1-11. including in your closeup. In which case you only have an actual gap every 4 feet because those are just 4x sheets of fancy plywood. And your closeup wasn't one of those edges if this is the case. 100%. The siding is definitely channel rustic boards and not paneling. This spot is above the garage door where you can see the individual boards.  This photo is from a wood vendor but what's on the house. I've got a few scrap pieces floating around somewhere and they look identical.  House was built in '55 and while it was likely a mid/budget house for the time, it still used a lot of real materials from the northwest. Lots of clear cedar and Douglas fir. It's a post and beam roof with exposed beams (6"x9") and (3x6") t&g car decking for the ceiling/roof and soffit/eaves. I can't even fathom what it would cost to build just in materials today. Seeing the "ye olde English village" outdoor light makes me hate it the more I see it. My wife and I are trying to bring the house back to it's original mid century styling with more appropriate finishes. Verman fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Jul 23, 2022 |
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Jul 23, 2022 05:18
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It's hard to say because we've only been in the house a year and have never busted open an exterior wall but my guess is tar paper. The reason I say this is the garage (which I think was added a few years later) is unfinished and I can see the marriage between the two. The exterior wall of the house that is shared with the garage has 1x7" horizontal shiplap on the garage side and is covered with super thick tar paper. I think this was the house's original exterior wall before the garage was added. The exterior walls of the garage go (from inside to outside) standard 2x4 studs, 1x7 shiplap, tar paper, and the vertical cedar channel siding. I can tell the paper is there because there's a knot in the shiplap that you can see the paper on the other side. I think the shiplap was the original sheathing vs homes now sheathed with OSB stand board. My guess is the rest of the house is the same way. From my Google fu, tar paper was a common moisture barrier for the time 1955. Coming from someone who only ever saw 1980/90s houses built with cardboard and vinyl, the overbuilt nature of a 50s home is shocking. Every trade pro we've had in the house has complemented the construction and materials. The last painter kept complementing the post and beam and how he appreciated the choices of mid century styling to highlight the building materials vs hiding them under drywall.
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Jul 23, 2022 06:53
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My step mom owned a painting company forever and just got back to me saying the same, if there aren't already issues, there really isn't a reason for a full caulk job, especially since our eaves keep the house pretty dry as is. Just do the windows/doors and trim if desired. That's what I was thinking and I'm relieved because it would be a ridiculous amount of work. It's lasted this long with no moisture issues in one of the wettest parts of the country but a lot of the painting videos I've watched recommended caulking seams and it felt incredibly excessive which is why I asked.
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Jul 23, 2022 08:10
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I'm in the process of repainting the exterior of my house, in the prep/scrape/sand phase, and I wanted to take the time to replace the front door trim. I removed a metal screen door frame from my front door. The steel was exactly 1x2. Of course they were put in with security lag screws so I had to grind a slot into all of them to back them out. Some needed to be squared off and pulled out with an impact or vise grips which was annoying. Regardless, I got them all out and went shopping for new trim only to realize finding something that's actually 1"x2" and not smaller in each dimension would be tricky. I went to Lowes and home Depot, the closest I could find was 1x3 (3/4 x 2.5). I put it in place and it was too shallow, sitting flush with the level of my siding which looked weird. I went back to HD and found 5/4 x 3 primed board by all the fascia lumber. It fits perfectly and has the right height to stand out beyond the siding allowing for a good bead of caulk.  This was just set in place, not secured yet but also holy poo poo, star head trim screws are incredible. I had an old contractor use them a few years ago when replacing a door on our rental and they're so good.
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Jul 28, 2022 06:32
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Well I took this week off work to paint my house. I've pressure washed it, caulked every seam of my vertical wood siding, scraped a lot of chipped paint, sanded a lot of spots and caulked a few cracks etc. Removed my down spouts. Repaired a few different spots. Holy poo poo it's a lot of work and I'm not remotely shy of manual labor. I'm not even painting yet. I knew it was going to be a lot of work but it's like 10x more than I even thought. Wood siding is a metric gently caress ton of work especially when it's neglected. I tried to rent a paint sprayer from my tool library but they were all rented out or being fixed. I looked at the rental houses and they were just at much for three days as if I just bought one. I'm probably going to spend a full day masking my eaves and windows. Maybe $8,000 wasn't so far fetched of a bid and is sounding more digestible by the day.
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Aug 8, 2022 06:11
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skipdogg posted:8K all in? Including materials and paint? Without paint/primer. I get 40-50% off Sherwin Williams paint from a family member so those quotes were minus paint. We bought the paint and it was around $850 after the discount. Was going to be around $1500 without. 5 gallons of primer. 10 gallons of paint. 2 gallons for trim and beams. I used about 10 tubes of caulk. I estimated that I caulked about a half mile of seams. 8' per seam, 2 seams per foot around the house. 160ft circumference. It's incredibly satisfying to lay down a perfect bead of caulk, one handed in a single pass. It's a sickness really.
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Aug 8, 2022 08:48
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About a month of prep work and it's finally time to paint. In total, I caulked over a half mile worth of seams in my wood siding. Filled a bunch of holes, removed two defunct spigots and filled the holes. I scraped and sanded a lot. I knew it was going to be a big job but took way longer than I thought. The painting seems like it will go relatively quick compared to the prep. I got a coat of primer on today. It was my first time spraying and it took some getting used to. I used a masking gun but the underside of my eaves has to be done by hand which took a while. Also masking my foundation took a bit. Moving things from one side of the house to the other also took a long time.   I'm planning to put two coats of paint on this week. I was covered in overspray so I'm glad I wore a mask and glasses but maybe I'll wear a hood. Whatever the price next time, it's worth it for someone else to do it. It's an asinine amount of work. Verman fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Aug 22, 2022 |
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Aug 22, 2022 08:43
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Yooper posted:I like DIY Renovision for a pretty wide range of stuff. Some of it may be on the advanced side, but he has a ton of content that is also pretty basic. This Old House has a solid YouTube backlog as well, though some of it is oddly specific to the East Coast market. Came in here to post literally those two channels. DIY renovation is great. That guy can do everything and his attitude is very matter of fact. He's got a little bit of natural humor that he'll object but nothing over the top of annoying. He has long videos that show the whole process of things but he's to the point. He doesn't add a lot of unnecessary fluff. For instance, Idaho painter is great paint info but he goes way to deep at times. He'll have a video titled "back rolling after airless spraying" which should only be a few minutes to explain and show the process but somehow it will be 45 minutes of him talking way too deep. This old house is fantastic. That's how I know I've crossed over the geriatric bridge when it's one of my favorite things to watch. As a kid, I remember it coming on Sunday morning TV and cut off the cartoons. I hated it. The thought of watching little fix old houses was shockingly dull. I think my dad would watch it and it was excruciating but I love it so much now especially as a home owner. Their advice is solid and their tradesmen are the real deal. It's been around so long that they've got a lot of material and thankfully they've embraced YouTube. PainterofCrap posted:It has always been thus. Thanks! I chose to spray. I thought spraying would look better and maybe go quicker. When you factor in setting up the sprayer, adjusting settings, masking everything, moving the sprayer and paint around the house, then cleaning up and flushing the sprayer/parts, I think I could've rolled and brushed it quicker. I'm planning to back roll at least the first paint coat. I bought enough paint theoretically for two coats. I figured it was already painted, so one coat of primer and two of self priming paint should do the trick but we'll see. I guessed too short on primer. I bought and used 5 gallons and still have one long side of the house to get which probably needs another 2. I really hope the 10 gallons of paint is enough for two full coats and 2 gallons for the beams and trim. Verman fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Aug 22, 2022 |
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Aug 22, 2022 18:19
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Well, I primed the house last weekend and only had a half gallon left over which I think is a big success. I had to travel for work this week so I couldn't get around to painting until today.  It's Sherwin Williams black of night in flat. It's wet right now so it looks glossy but it won't be. The swatch looks black but on the house in daylight it's more of a charcoal with a hint of blue. It's going on really well and much less overspray than the primer. I had to adjust the pressure setting quite a bit but I'm liking the color. The trim won't stay white either, it's going to be a darker black (tricorn black) to be exact. I think once everything is done, trim painted and the front door painted, new house numbers attached, new outdoor lights, it's going to look really good. Verman fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Aug 27, 2022 |
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Aug 27, 2022 21:21
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I cant imagine living in a black house in my hot climate, but that will look really neat. What kind of sprayer are you using? Thankfully we're in Seattle and have a well shaded lot so it shouldn't be too bad. Plus our roof is light gray so that reflects a lot of heat. Just using a Graco x5 airless. There are much, much better sprayers but I'm honestly surprised how well it's going and how great the finish looks on the aluminum gutters. I've done the house in SketchUp to see what it will look like because I didn't want to be surprised after spending all this time and money. Charcoal is a gamble but I think with the mid century style it will look pretty good with slightly darker trim.
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Aug 28, 2022 01:52
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I was really curious to see how the paint dried so when I woke up this morning I took a look outside. First off, I'm really liking the color. I thought it would dominate everything but anything with color is really going to pop against it. It should be nice when we put in some ornamental grasses and plants around the house.   It contrasts well against the rock work and actually brings more attention to it which is nice. It's flat but there's still some residual sheen until it fully dries. I'm still very impressed by the quality of the finish. I decided to camouflage my cable box etc and it looks like a near factory coating.  Sherwin Williams also says this Duration exterior paint goes on in one coat and I never believe those statements but in this case, it's true. I'm still going to do a second coat but it's coverage is fantastic. I put it on over white primer and there's nothing showing through. Before buying this house last year, Behr paint was the nicest stuff I had ever used (spending maybe $15-20/gallon) for painting apartments, but between our interior and exterior painting projects using Benjamin Moore and Sherwin Williams I'll spend the extra for nice paint every time from now on. Verman fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Aug 28, 2022 |
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Aug 28, 2022 20:26
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You have to love when the paint is so thick that you can't even see the notch in the flat head screw. Man I don't miss my late 18 early 1900's apartments.
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Sep 3, 2022 00:09
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Motronic posted:Ya know, this is one of the things that irks me about people online/articles talking about "I started a business"/"I have three businesses"/"I'm building my business" and it's like.....an MLM or some kind of glom on SEO thing. There are people who literally moved continents and literally built buildings with their own hands to start/build their business. Agreed, I'm also always blown away by people who have old family photos like this. People now a days take photos for granted with how easily they have been to make and share for the majority of our lives. To have a camera back then, know how to use it properly, develop and preserve those photos all that time takes a lot of effort. Im so jealous.
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Sep 9, 2022 23:06
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My guess is that guy sharpened the hatchet to razor sharpness the right way. I'm honestly shocked at how quick he moves and how accurate he is with the blade scoring the back of that board. A modern drywaller is fast but would probably have used several power tools in the process.
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Sep 10, 2022 05:03
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meatpimp posted:Paint sprayer chat -- I bought an x7 to paint my house exterior and I love it. The finish is incredible and it was pretty easy to use once you get the hang of it. You definitely want to understand how the tip sizes work. Also look up the material you're using and adjust your pressure to it's specs. The primer I used took way less pressure to atomize then the paint did. My biggest issue is the dial on the pump. I wish it measured pressure in numbers vs just less or more. I always did a pattern test anyway. As for the paint in the hose, yeah a 50' hose uses a lot of paint but if you need a 50' hose for a project, that project is likely going to be more than a gallon or two. If it's a small project, use the 25' hose. Also learn how to recapture the paint in the hose when cleaning it out to save paint. If you're painting walls or an exterior I recommend two things. A must is a 15-20" gun extension. It allows you to cover more paint on one stroke with less physical movement. It also gets you further away from the overspray. The other recommendation is a flexible hose whip. It's about 3' of more flexible hose that goes between the regular hose and your gun making the gun infinitely easier to manipulate. Cleaning the sprayers is probably the worst part about owning one. It's messy, takes time and just sucks. I'm a pretty thorough guy and it makes me want to cut corners. I can only imagine how many of these things have been wrecked by people not cleaning them thoroughly.
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Sep 27, 2022 18:32
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That's what scared me about smaller tips. You need to move the gun faster because you're putting out the same amount of paint in a smaller area meaning you need to move faster to prevent runs and drips, especially on harder surfaces like metal.
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Sep 28, 2022 19:13
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I'll add one for Dyson. Dc27 that we've had for ... 10+ years and it's been great. No issues. Good suction, easy to empty and clean.
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Sep 28, 2022 22:29
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Gutter guards I had a big issue with my house being under a few pine trees and two massive cottonwood trees. The gutters were jam packed with stuff when we moved in. Looked like they had never been cleaned. One of my gutters and downspouts looked like a planter box and was gushing water the first time it rained hard. When I took the downspout off, it was completely blocked. It was so heavy I'm honestly amazed it stayed on the house. I was getting lots of pine needles, sticks, and leaves in my gutters and it required going up every week to clear them out. Thankfully my roof is low angle but the surface is epdm rubber membrane so it gets really slippery in the winter with the rain and leaves we get here in Seattle. I bought the stainless mesh gutter guards from Costco last year.  Before I installed the guards, I pressure washed my gutters and downspouts so they were clean. Installation wasn't terribly difficult but it was tedious. So far a year later they've worked pretty well. Very few needles got through, no leaves or sticks obviously. Now I go up there once a month or every other month to sweep them off just to keep them clear. It's made things much easier. My gutters are infinitely more clear of debris. I can run up there with a hose or pressure washer if I really wanted but I don't think it's needed. I would recommend.
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Oct 3, 2022 06:51
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Sash! posted:I expect one dollar for every degree of temperature to appear in my birthday card. The number is in your hands. Enjoy an envelope full of $2 bills.
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Oct 13, 2022 20:57
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This photo helps me understand why conservatorships exist.
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Nov 8, 2022 06:47
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In this chapter of the previous owner diaries... I am updating all the exterior lights on our home. I did the two front lights without issue. The back one was a huge plastic rectangular box with such a dim light you could barely see it when it was on. It looks like something that should've been on a commercial building. Regardless when I removed it to paint the house this summer, I noticed two separate sources of Romex, both live. One coming from a proper electrical box and the other just out of the wall.  The box had incoming and outgoing wires. When I pulled on the bottom wires, I could see the wires in the box get pulled down as well. I disconnected everything and pulled the lower wires out of the wall completely and connected everything to the box. I'll have to plug and wood fill the hole and paint over it. At some point but I have no extra exterior paint.
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Nov 27, 2022 10:15
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At least they'll all be uniform over enough time. The worst is needing several different bits. But yes flats are the worst. Square or torx for me.
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Dec 22, 2022 11:28
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 03:07 |
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Drywall anchors for the
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Jan 4, 2023 18:44
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