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televiper posted:argh for this my son was dead, and is alive again; he was lost, and is found.’ And they began to be merry. Now to do something about that massive fender gap.
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# ? Mar 29, 2014 03:09 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 21:38 |
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You going out on the trail this weekend? Looks like you can disconnect your front sway bar and get some good rock climbing action.
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# ? Mar 29, 2014 03:20 |
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Something is wrong right?
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# ? Mar 29, 2014 03:25 |
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Maybe. They had to replace the one strut, so I'm kinda hoping maybe it just needs to settle. I was so happy to get it back that I didn't notice it until I went to take pictures. The work is warrantied, but shop is closed until Monday. I'll look into it over the weekend.
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# ? Mar 29, 2014 03:41 |
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That's nothing that can't be fixed with a torch and a fat friend.
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# ? Mar 29, 2014 13:09 |
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Request for sanity check. I've had my '04 MSM for a couple months now, and I'm starting to understand what I've read about its shortcomings w.r.t. heat-soak, slow turbo spool up, etc. I'm thinking about getting Flyin' Miata's Little Enchilada package, and installing it myself. https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/MSM_upgrades.php. I figured I'd start with the complete intake kit, and go from there. I'm a fairly inexperienced wrench turner, I've changed tires, batteries, oil, but nothing engine related. I've read through and understand the instructions for the complete intake kit, I have the MSM '04 service manual, and I'm within walking distance to an Autozone. For each upgrade I'd be able to start on a friday night and need to be finished by sunday night. Is it stupid for me to try do this myself?
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# ? Mar 31, 2014 01:20 |
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isr posted:I'm a fairly inexperienced wrench turner, I've changed tires, batteries, oil, but nothing engine related. I've read through and understand the instructions for the complete intake kit, I have the MSM '04 service manual, and I'm within walking distance to an Autozone. For each upgrade I'd be able to start on a friday night and need to be finished by sunday night. Depends on your definition of "need" In general, you probably shouldn't be worried about doing too much damage or making mistakes... but you will probably end up with busted knuckles and spend 3-4x as long as a professional would take. You should be able to get most things done in a weekend, but I'd worry about the downpipe and exhaust. You may find yourself in a place where you got half the bolts off, but the other half are totally rusted and you have to soak them for a day in PB-blaster or something. That's where your time will be lost -- "If I could just get this loving bolt off..." e-mail FM and ask them for the installation instructions (if they're not already posted on the website), go through them a few times and see how you feel about it.
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# ? Mar 31, 2014 06:35 |
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My NB's 3-button remote keyfob is starting to behave strangely - basically not working on a random basis. It's not the battery because I tried swapping in a new one, and not a programming isse because I went through the whole process only to have it work three times in a row but then again only every other time at best. Any ideas what might be the problem? This really sucks because somebody hosed around with the door lock, making inserting the key a pain in the rear end, and I'm worried about getting locked out of my car
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# ? Mar 31, 2014 07:03 |
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mobby_6kl posted:My NB's 3-button remote keyfob is starting to behave strangely - basically not working on a random basis. It's not the battery because I tried swapping in a new one, and not a programming isse because I went through the whole process only to have it work three times in a row but then again only every other time at best. Any ideas what might be the problem? This really sucks because somebody hosed around with the door lock, making inserting the key a pain in the rear end, and I'm worried about getting locked out of my car Try taking it apart and bending the contacts towards the battery a little. They can make intermittent contact causing this strange behavior.
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# ? Mar 31, 2014 07:49 |
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So I have rod knock now. I just finished the cooling system refresh and a new timing belt. Oil pressure never moved (and is still good), oil level is fine, but it is definitely knocking. Joy. This is a reman engine too, only three years old. Time to buy an engine stand I guess, as well as a beater in the interim. Goddammit. Edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SytO7CoSvy4 Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 11:56 on Mar 31, 2014 |
# ? Mar 31, 2014 10:36 |
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Beach Bum posted:So I have rod knock now. I just finished the cooling system refresh and a new timing belt. Oil pressure never moved (and is still good), oil level is fine, but it is definitely knocking. Joy. This is a reman engine too, only three years old. That doesn't sound very good.
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# ? Mar 31, 2014 11:40 |
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isr posted:Request for sanity check. The downpipe took me and a buddy an entire weekend, but we did get it done. You're going to need a fairly extensive assortment of extensions and swivels, u-joints, etc. It's only like 6 bolts but it took me a long time. That said, I think you could probably do exhaust and downpipe altogether in a single weekend. I'd make sure you have two FULL days set aside just in case. Everything else looks extremely easy and I don't think you'll have an issue (dunno about injectors, not sure what's involved in that)
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# ? Mar 31, 2014 14:51 |
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Beach Bum posted:So I have rod knock now. I just finished the cooling system refresh and a new timing belt. Oil pressure never moved (and is still good), oil level is fine, but it is definitely knocking. Joy. This is a reman engine too, only three years old.
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# ? Mar 31, 2014 17:09 |
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destructo posted:Are you sure? My car made the same noise for at least 15-20 minutes the first time I did the TB. Takes a while for the HLAs to shut up and its a lot louder than regular HLA tick. Good luck! It's been 5 days and 500 miles since the TB job. It was not making that noise until just this morning. It is reaaally noisy. You can really hear it bein not-HLA at the tail end of the rev as it's coming down to idle again.
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# ? Mar 31, 2014 17:26 |
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Update on the car: (I apologize for the change in aspect, I am dumb and can't hold a phone sideways when I'm looking at the back of it) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAkkqS8xrPU Thank God for magic fairy dust! As I said in the video, it turned out that the crank pulley torque spec of 80ftlb is not sufficient to keep it from backing off. The keyway on the pulley and crank is now completely knackered. I'm going to go back in there and do the locktite fix until I can get my hands on a shortblock with a bignose crank and do a proper rebuild and swap.
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# ? Mar 31, 2014 20:30 |
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So when I did mine, I have the long nose crank and did 120ft-lbs, but did not apply loctite. I haven't driven it yet, just ran it in the basement unloaded. Should I be super worried? And more importantly I'm assuming I should pull it back apart, loctite it, and re-torque it? Dammit. Well I guess I can probably get away with just pulling the swaybar maybe.
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# ? Mar 31, 2014 20:46 |
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Viper915 posted:So when I did mine, I have the long nose crank and did 120ft-lbs, but did not apply loctite. I haven't driven it yet, just ran it in the basement unloaded. Should I be super worried? And more importantly I'm assuming I should pull it back apart, loctite it, and re-torque it? Dammit. Well I guess I can probably get away with just pulling the swaybar maybe. With the longnose, if your keyways weren't already knackered like mine were, you used a new key in the proper orientation, and a new crank bolt properly torqued, you oughta be fine. When I say Locktite fix, I mean this: http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank2.html
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# ? Mar 31, 2014 23:21 |
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Beach Bum posted:Update on the car: Shave your face bro.
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# ? Mar 31, 2014 23:53 |
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n8r posted:Shave your face bro. It's been a long week
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# ? Apr 1, 2014 01:00 |
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Beach Bum posted:With the longnose, if your keyways weren't already knackered like mine were, you used a new key in the proper orientation, and a new crank bolt properly torqued, you oughta be fine. Right, I was thinking that the m.net torque specs say to use loctite in addition to torque. I have a long nose, keyway was perfect, used a brand new key, and torqued to 120 ft-lbs. I figured I was good, but talk of cranks has me nervous since this is my first timing belt and it's not back on the road yet so I can still get back in if needed. Am I being overly paranoid?
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# ? Apr 1, 2014 01:28 |
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Oh poo poo, so it does. I'll pull it tomorrow and blue it.
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# ? Apr 1, 2014 02:15 |
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Beach Bum posted:Oh poo poo, so it does. I'll pull it tomorrow and blue it. You should definitely get a new crank. I suggest this one, and the accessories that are attached to it. But I'm glad it was something simple, though again you definitely need to Loctite that crank bolt.
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# ? Apr 1, 2014 02:38 |
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Took the NC out to see dad tonight. Put just shy of 100 miles on her, a mix of small town twisty roads and highway. Most time I spent in the car so far and loved every second.
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# ? Apr 1, 2014 05:33 |
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revmoo posted:The downpipe took me and a buddy an entire weekend, but we did get it done. You're going to need a fairly extensive assortment of extensions and swivels, u-joints, etc. It's only like 6 bolts but it took me a long time. That said, I think you could probably do exhaust and downpipe altogether in a single weekend. I'd make sure you have two FULL days set aside just in case. Everything else looks extremely easy and I don't think you'll have an issue (dunno about injectors, not sure what's involved in that) Hog Obituary posted:Depends on your definition of "need" Thanks for the responses, I'm going to go for it! In a while...
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# ? Apr 1, 2014 18:14 |
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isr posted:Thanks for the responses, I'm going to go for it! In a while...
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 08:59 |
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I have a shortnose crank from a JDM B6T (nothing special AFAIK), is it worth putting on eBay? It'd need to be resurfaced since it has some light rust, but the engine had FOD and was otherwise scrapped.
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 20:37 |
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So the top on the NC is leaking. Right at the back behind the driver's seat. I got water in the car again after thinking I'd found the hole. The top itself is looking pretty ratty so I figure I'm just going to budget for a whole new top here next month. Robbins is still the best right?
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 20:47 |
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Yep http://topsonline.com/
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# ? Apr 4, 2014 00:17 |
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Woo, my wife finally gave her standing agreement to my second car purchase. Hopefully it's not too close to summer to get a good price on a NA.
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# ? Apr 4, 2014 02:36 |
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Sweet. I did find a second hole so I may try sealing it and putting off the new top for a few weeks. I want to spend money on the other car. blk posted:Woo, my wife finally gave her standing agreement to my second car purchase. Hopefully it's not too close to summer to get a good price on a NA. Excellent man.
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# ? Apr 4, 2014 06:44 |
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Seconding that as a decent top source. The streamline top I ordered from there for my NB was about 40 bucks cheaper than elsewhere and it shipped pretty promptly. Assuming it doesn't rain, I'll probably be attempting the install this weekend.
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# ? Apr 4, 2014 07:13 |
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Finally pulled the crank bolt back out and locktited it with the blue stuff. If it backs off again I'm just going to weld the timing gear on the drat thing and start looking for a new shortblock.
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# ? Apr 4, 2014 07:57 |
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Harmburger posted:Try taking it apart and bending the contacts towards the battery a little. They can make intermittent contact causing this strange behavior. Sadly this didn't seem to help, it just sometimes works on the 5th press or something. Are the fobs known to die for no reason? I only have one so I can't test whether the problem's in the key fob or the car's receiver. For the other "getting into my own car" aspect, I managed to get the tiny flappy door in the door lock sufficiently out of the way with some screwdrivers to be able to get the key in. However this leaves a gaping hope there, is difficult to turn, and the key sometimes gets stuck there. Perfect! It seems that this highlighted part is what's hosed, but it looks possible to replace without replacing all locks (or even just the door lock). How much of a pain in the rear end is accessing the lock? I'll have to disassemble the whole door, won't I?
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# ? Apr 4, 2014 09:48 |
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Why are you locking your doors?
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# ? Apr 4, 2014 16:05 |
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Locks keep honest people honest. Thieves are assholes and will cut your top anyway. (And maybe he has a hardtop, smarty)
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# ? Apr 4, 2014 17:05 |
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n8r posted:Why are you locking your doors? I'd rather lose the <$50 in whatnot I may have rattling around my car than have to pay $400 for a new top and spend 5 hours installing it. Those loving end nuts, doing those with a rollbar is
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# ? Apr 4, 2014 18:08 |
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n8r posted:Why are you locking your doors? I used to not lock my doors since I have nothing of value in the car. That is, until someone went in overnight and left used condoms and empty dime bags inside. In a rational world with rational people, keeping your doors unlocked is best. Unfortunately that's not the world we live in. Also I could use an excuse to buy a new top.
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# ? Apr 4, 2014 19:58 |
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Hikaki posted:I used to not lock my doors since I have nothing of value in the car. That is, until someone went in overnight and left used condoms and empty dime bags inside.
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# ? Apr 4, 2014 20:10 |
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dpidz0r posted:Wait, people managed to do some kind of condom requiring activity inside a miata? They must have been either midgets or contortionists. I doubt they actually did the deed inside. No, I think it was kids that thought it would be funny to leave gross poo poo. Same type of kids that like to walk down a row of cars and kick out all the side mirrors. I guess I'll really know who did it if I ever see a midget couple in my neighborhood though.
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# ? Apr 4, 2014 20:32 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 21:38 |
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dpidz0r posted:Wait, people managed to do some kind of condom requiring activity inside a miata? They must have been either midgets or contortionists. Seriously. Best I've managed was 75% inside.
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# ? Apr 4, 2014 20:58 |