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Flipperwaldt posted:You'll definitely need to check that drivers for current operating systems are available on the manufacturer's website. Otherwise you should be good. Haha I just dusted off my old Edirol PCR-500 and had to do this to get it working over the USB. And yep, gently caress my life. (OK, it only took a few edits to the driver files and a reboot, and there are tutorials out there, but still, ugh. The dumbest thing about this is that the alternate workaround is to buy a new Roland USB midi interface for like $30 and just plug the keyboard straight into that.)
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Aug 14, 2019 00:46
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Flipperwaldt posted:Re: Lead out in cuffs' pcr-500 Thanks! Yeah I used to run it in Linux, and it just kinda worked. Apparently these are the instructions for putting it in class-compliant mode: https://www.roland.com/us/support/knowledge_base/201959629/ Now I just need to deal with the rubberised coating on the sliders and pitch wheel that's turned sticky.
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Aug 14, 2019 20:03
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Also it's been interesting switching to the Windows world for audio after previous fiddling around in Linux years ago. I still get the impression that Jack+RT kernel vastly outperforms ASIO+Windows on the same hardware, and both Ardour and Reaper are available as highly-capable DAWs in Linux. But VST support still sucks. It's kinda doable for at least some VSTs via Wine, but neither Ardour nor Reaper properly supports this, so you have to use them in a separate host as outboard devices. This in turn means that you need to remember all your routing and which plugins were loaded in two separate pieces of software. There's some support for system-wide sessions via Ladish, but it's just not conducive to a modern workflow of throwing a stack of plugins on each track. So, Windows it is this time.
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Aug 14, 2019 20:03
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Brettbot posted:So I know nothing about MIDI, but I've got a decent set of drum samples and I'm sick of programming loops by hand in FruityLoops or whatever. What is the cheapest or simplest sample pad/drum pad/whatever setup, so that I can play the drums directly into my computer? Maybe a cheap keyboard would work just as well? I currently run a Scarlett 2i2 into Reaper on my laptop for recording guitars, if that helps. Korg Nanopad or whatever Akai's cheap pad is called. Both go for like $60 US or so. Both do midi via USB, so they'll just plug into your laptop with no need for extra cables or interfaces. There are probably a few other options. You should try them out at your local music store and pick whichever feels good to you.
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Oct 30, 2019 09:07
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So I finally have a space big enough to be able to get studio monitors, and have been shopping around in the ~CAD$500 range. I'd been looking at KRK Rokit5s or JBL 305Ps. But right now there's a guy on Craigslist selling a pair of Event 20/20 BAS monitors for that price, and slightly less than the 5 inch monitors new. Is there anything I should beware of? Does this seem like a good idea?
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Jul 16, 2020 02:13
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Well, to answer my own question, after some research I've concluded that a) the Event 20/20 BAS are larger than I'm wanting for my desk right now, b) there was some good advice never to buy used monitors since you have no way of knowing how abused they are, and c) the bigger speaker isn't such an issue, since I'd still need a subwoofer if I wanted deep bass, and also there is no way I'd be able to treat a room the size I'm using to actually get an accurate picture of the lower bass frequencies anyway. So I've ordered the KRKs.
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Jul 17, 2020 05:17
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McCoy Pauley posted:Thanks for the details -- that's really informative. Build a Faraday cage for your PC.
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Aug 5, 2020 22:41
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Achmed Jones posted:The third gen focusrites are usb-c, not micro. This is good because micro is hilariously terrible Oh weird. The first-gen just used good old chunky USB Type B.
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Aug 8, 2020 02:34
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chippy posted:It's my understanding that the form factor (USB-C) and protocols (USB4 etc.) are different things, although the protocols can only be delivered over USB-C. Is that not the case? Otherwise USB-A to USB-C cable wouldn't be a thing surely? I'm pretty sure that's the case. Even USB 3.0 needs special connectors with five extra pins. You can plug four-pin cables into a USB 3.0 receptacle, but it won't give you speeds any faster than USB 2.0. Likewise, USB-C has another two pairs of data pins (plus a bunch of extra power pins), so to get the fastest USB 3.2 and USB 4.0 speeds, you need to connect USB-C to USB-C. There is a "superspeed" USB-A plug with the pins for USB 3.0, but I don't know if you can put that on one end of a cable with USB-C on the other. (The one that came with my phone is just four-pin A to USB-C.) Anyway, for recording purposes, apparently this is all moot, since audio doesn't actually need anything faster than USB2.0, even for something like the 18i20. And for MIDI you need even less (although I think there are latency gains for USB 2 over USB 1). That might also explain why hardware is still being built and shipped with USB-B plugs, even today. https://support.focusrite.com/hc/en-gb/articles/208095469-USB-2-0-vs-USB-3-0
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Aug 10, 2020 18:19
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Wowporn posted:My only insight is that the drivers for my focusrite Scarlett were horrendous on the two windows 10 machines I used it on and I don't think I would recommend it
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Aug 13, 2020 09:07
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Spanish Manlove posted:Extension cord I'd probably used one of these, rather: https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-6-Outlet-Power-Strip-with-45-Angle-Plug-YLPT-90/203353677 Or a remote control one like was suggested above.
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Aug 14, 2020 05:44
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Uncleanly Cleric posted:Maybe y'all can help me out here. Are you saying that the levels sound correct when you monitor on headphones on the R16, but the microphones are then soft via the USB? It's expected that mic level will be softer than guitar pickups, especially if they're high-gain. https://www.sweetwater.com/sweetcare/articles/whats-the-difference-between-mic-instrument-line-and-speaker-level-signals/
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Aug 19, 2020 20:01
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Uncleanly Cleric posted:Oh, sweet! i actually wasn't aware of this. Yeah it could be underpowering the mics. In general you also want to adjust the gain on all your channels (on the R16) to get them into a good range (usually about as loud as possible without clipping). You want to do this on the fader on the board, since that's (presumably) the actual preamp that's first receiving the signal. If you record soft and only adjust the gain afterwards in the DAW, you will definitely lose at least some quality because you'll be amplifying the noise as well. Try searching for articles on "gain staging" if you want to learn more about this.
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Aug 19, 2020 21:26
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AcidRonin posted:Anybody using REAPER notice some UI weirdness in the last update? My mixer is now tiny and shoved over to the left and I can't seem to change it. I haven't actually updated to that yet, but Reaper has "themes" that control stuff like that, and my guess is that they changed the default theme. There's a menu option somewhere that lets you change back to older themes.
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Sep 1, 2020 02:02
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Yeah you probably just hadn't realised it's called FLStudio instead of FruityLoops now. (I assume they got sued for trademark infringement or something?) FLStudio is definitely a widely-used DAW, and should have been mentioned in the articles you've been reading.
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Sep 15, 2020 07:38
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Ott_ posted:jfc i bought a fake sm57 on amazon a year and a half ago Yeah I kinda get the impression that you should never buy a microphone on Amazon, especially an SM57/SM58. You *might* be able to identify that it's counterfeit once you receive it, but there's basically no way of telling sight unseen, and Amazon gives no fucks. http://sine-post.co.uk/2017/11/10/are-you-sure/
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Sep 16, 2020 20:40
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khysanth posted:Wanting to build a patch bay so all my pedals and synths are readily available by moving a simple 1/4" cable (I have too many instruments). Anyone else go this route? What patch bays would you recommend / avoid? Currently eyeing this: You should ask in the Synths thread, they'd be all over this: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3617837
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Sep 24, 2020 21:35
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Curtains over that window would go a long way, as would some acoustic foam on the walls to cut down on reflections (echo). My understanding of bass traps is that the size of room and traps you need for super accurate mixing in the sub-50 Hz range (or even sub-100 Hz) is well beyond what you'll be able to set up in that room. But they can't hurt in terms of cutting down reflections. Oh, also this software is free and can help with assessing the room (assuming you have reasonably accurate monitors and a reasonably accurate mic.) https://www.roomeqwizard.com/
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Sep 28, 2020 07:58
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:Hey guys, finally getting back into the guitar playing thing and messing around with songwriting again. I just got a Schecter C1 which seems really nice, along with a cheap USB interface for my PC. I don't have an amp right this second, but I figure I can just play through my PC speakers. My interface came with Pro Tools First and/or Ableton. Are those programs decent for noodling around, or is there something better I want to get instead? For now mostly just interested in playing and getting back in the groove, but I'll eventually want to try recording stuff too. What's your plan for guitar effects? Reaper or Ableton can be coaxed to provide those if you know what you're doing, but it won't be super intuitive. For your purposes, I'd look around on local classifieds for a used practice amp that has onboard effects/modelling and a USB out. That would allow you to noodle around without booting up your PC, but also to record with effects when you want to start laying down tracks. Something like a Fender Mustang I (v2 and up), the Yamaha THR series, Line 6 Spider V. stoopidmunkey posted:I’m working on doing some remote recordings with the band and am wondering what the best cheap daw for both windows and Mac is. Right now I’m thinking reaper but my drummer is former tech-Savy and I want the easiest thing for him to track to. The interface I’m giving him has Cubase le with it so I’m willing to get a Mac version of it exists for my use. Yeah Reaper is pretty much the best cheap option if your goal is recording a band. They're also pretty laissez faire about reusing the same license, so you *could* share one license with your whole band, although it might be at least a little unethical. But also, if all you need your drummer to do is record stems, and Cubase LE will let them do that, well, it is free. But so is Audacity.
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Oct 6, 2020 18:59
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:Effects is basically what I was asking about. I just kind of assumed there would be some sort of program or something that could do that until I get an amp. Guitar Rig and Amplitube would match that description. They're good, but they cost a small chunk of cash. Note: these are plugins that work with your DAW, so you still need to also get a DAW. There is a free version of Amplitube that might get you up and running with some basic effects: https://www.ikmultimedia.com/products/amplitubecs/index.php?p=gear But honestly, for the price of the full versions of those plugins, and given your setup right now, you'd very likely be better off looking for a cheap used modelling amp.
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Oct 6, 2020 20:10
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Are you mainly recording your voice? There are screens you can get to go around the mic that are basically miniature recording booths. You can find cheap ones on Amazon for under $100, or even make one for less than that. I'd try that first before trying to fully soundproof the room, because that's actually pretty hard to do.
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Oct 7, 2020 20:38
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Or buy one for not much more off Amazon, eg: https://www.amazon.com/TONOR-Microphone-Isolation-Absorbing-Reflector/dp/B078WNW4YW/ Or this thing, which is basically the same as that instructable, but $38, which is barely more than the cost of materials to DIY it: https://www.amazon.com/TroyStudio-Portable-Sound-Recording-Vocal/dp/B07MZZ36L4/r The other (cheap) thing you can do is to weatherstrip the door so no air gets in or out. I'd start with those and see if it's enough before tackling the walls. Here's a deep dive into more serious soundproofing: https://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/practical-soundproofing Also, I think a lot of goons don't like Gearslutz much, but they do have a pretty good subforum on home studio building: https://www.gearslutz.com/board/studio-building-acoustics/
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Oct 8, 2020 01:07
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massive spider posted:I ordered a king bee from Latvia relatively cheap after swing rave YouTube reviews and it’s really nice. Comes with a manual full of bee facts too 🐝 Finally a piece of studio gear to match the Rokit colour scheme!
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Oct 16, 2020 22:20
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One small thing is that the earlier 2i2s had a round trip latency in the 20ms range, which might be enough to slightly throw off your timing as you play. They may have improved on that, or you could get around it by using direct (dry) monitoring when you record.
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Nov 17, 2020 03:29
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Preggo My Eggo! posted:I'm getting an annoying hissing sound from my HS5 monitors. Should I be using the XLR input instead of the 1/4" input? Right now I'm going from a Scarlett 18i8 1/4" L and R monitor outputs, through regular instrument cables, into the 1/4" input of the monitors. Usually 1/4" inputs to monitors are meant to be balanced to reduce hum. Instrument cables will be much noisier, and that's probably your issue. So yeah, either get balanced 1/4" cables, or use XLR.
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Dec 22, 2020 05:25
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Preggo My Eggo! posted:Thanks! No worries! Incidentally, if you want to know the whys of this, there's a graphic that a goon apparently made in the old thread explaining it:  (1/4" TRS and XLR are both balanced cabling.)
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Dec 26, 2020 10:19
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Spanish Manlove posted:oooooh it's like a differential amplifier. Duh that makes sense now, I never really looked into how XLR cables are wired. Yeah it's just so elegant. After some reading, it sounds like it was invented in the 1800s for use in telephone systems. (I'm not quite clear how they were making differential amplifiers before vacuum tubes were even invented, but hey.)
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Dec 27, 2020 14:31
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Take the mic into a store that sells a range of bolts in different sizes and thread pitches (like an auto parts store), and find the right ones.
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Jan 4, 2021 03:49
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If you're just needing to record your amp, something like a Scarlett Solo should do fine. If you've got more money to spend, there are fancier interfaces with slightly better preamps, but that'll get you a lot of bang for your buck. Re: mics for a guitar cab, maybe also ask in the guitar thread - there are definitely posters there with a lot of knowledge on that. I don't think room matters much when recording a guitar cab - you stick the mic right in front of it.
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Jan 7, 2021 13:53
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Ok Comboomer posted:iPhone mic is good and probably cheapest Just don't forget to buy a wind screen for it if it's for hiking.
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Jan 25, 2021 07:30
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landgrabber posted:is there a good way to simulate varispeed if you're doing digital recording? just speeding it up ever so slightly? or is it useless to try digitally? I'm pretty sure this is just a function in most DAWs (whether to stretch samples while maintaining pitch, or the old fashioned "varispeed" way). There are also plugins out there that allow you to simulate tape stretch if that's your thing.
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Feb 13, 2021 02:03
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Mozi posted:Possibly dumb question: I am recording myself playing guitar (just for informal purposes) from my amp which does USB out directly into my computer, using Windows Voice Recorder. The input volume is at 100 in Windows but because my amp volume is low the recordings are very quiet and when I boost the volume on the file afterwards it makes it sound bad. I don't need to do any editing or anything, just record the files. What's the best way to do that with a louder volume? Go though your signal chain and check that everything's turned up. I don't know what that looks like for you, but your amp probably shows up as an audio device in Windows, with the option to set the input volume there.
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Mar 12, 2021 22:53
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Mozi posted:I tried Audacity which was easy to use with the Normalize effect which did what I want and worked well on this one: https://soundcloud.com/user141888934/loop-3-3-12-21 In my phone so can't really listen to those, but yeah you need to learn about gain staging. Get your levels right when you record. If you normalize after, you're just amplifying noise. Also you generally don't want anything at 100. And find out how your Katana works in terms of its USB interface. It should be possible to set it up to send signal to the computer at a reasonable volume for recording without needing to blow your eardrums out with the sound coming from the speaker.
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Mar 13, 2021 08:22
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Have you ruled out the guitar and the cable? (Ie tested that you don't get this with a different cable or with an amp)? Otherwise maybe it's a grounding problem with your computer/interface?
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Apr 18, 2021 03:27
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Paperhouse posted:any tips for getting a decent clean electric guitar sound? I'm recording directly into FL Studio with a cheap interface. Trying to use amp sims and EQ to make it sound nice but it just doesn't so far (admittedly I'm not particularly proficient with either). even as I am recording it clean with low gain it still sounds vaguely crunchy when I play the chords fairly hard Assuming you've checked your gain staging? Is the crunch in the dry signal before you pass it through the amp sim VST, or after? If it's before, try turning down your guitar and/or interface. If it's after, dig into the amp sim. Most guitar amps have built-in distortion/gain, and the sim you're using may have that turned on by default. If it's on, try turning it down. Try adding effects. Some things that make a nice "clean" electric guitar sound are chorus (adds slightly detuned copies to make it sound big), reverb (simulates room echo to make it sound big), delay (lets you do jangly self-harmonising stuff -- optional), and compressor (tightens up the sound ). Compressor could also help with levelling out the sound if you're playing chords too hard. But I'm kind of an amateur. The guitar thread might have better suggestions for your signal chain.
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Aug 5, 2021 20:11
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Yeah other options: 1. Use less FX 2. Upgrade your CPU
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Sep 16, 2021 03:46
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A MIRACLE posted:Or record your take clean, apply fx in post and freeze/bounce the audio clip Oh yeah exactly this. Or apply just a few FX live so the guitar isn't totally clean but then apply the more CPU-intensive stuff like reverbs and cab sims afterwards. Also if the accompaniment track is being run through a bunch of FX, then bouncing that would go a long way.
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Sep 16, 2021 05:03
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Oh. Yeah so your web browser is definitely not ASIO compatible, and the mechanisms to allow it to play audio while ASIO is also running can be finicky. I remember having to do some stuff around enabling WASAPI in my DAW to get that working. Also you may want to just record the YouTube track into your DAW and then play it back there. Then it'll all be playing through ASIO Also you can pan it, fiddle with the mixing, etc.
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Sep 16, 2021 18:16
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:Couple of quick questions - A. Bouncing is recording a track that has a bunch of effects/software synths/etc to audio to save on computation. It can help if you have a really hungry synth, or a lot of very CPU-intensive effects and a lot of tracks in a project. It's also sometimes called "freezing" or "rendering". One other neat thing about it is that it gets done not in real time, so you can have something that's too CPU intensive to play live, but get your computer to render (aka bounce aka freeze) it to audio and play that live instead. B. Nope, you should not need to worry. That is plenty of computer for audio needs.
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Sep 21, 2021 00:27
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:I have a couple of songs I've written with a piano in it(guitar pro) and want to try recording it at some point. So I need a virtual instrument. Is EZ Keys a good choice or are there decent cheaper ones out there I can use that sound decent? Do I want to get one that does it all as standalone mostly, or should I get a midi sequencer of some sort to actually write it out and just use the plug in for the sound samples? I'm new to all this. I know I should be able to just export the midi from guitar pro but I imagine they might need tweaking. If you want to record and sequence MIDI, you kinda need a DAW. Get Reaper. It's cheap and there are plenty of tutorials and helpful forums. For piano, there are quite a lot of decent free VSTs. I'd try those first before laying down money on one.
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Sep 22, 2021 07:14
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