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Sound Mr. Brown posted:Quick question: what is the technical name for sliding doors? "Cavity sliding doors" seems to be what they call them in Commonwealth countries, but I can't get any links on US websites. Wondering if it's something I'll have to rig myself or if there are any dealers offering solutions. I don't want "French doors" or "removable walls" or "sliding glass doors" or other large patio installments. They are called "Pocket Doors".
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Jan 15, 2008 13:09
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3M makes a double sided tape that is used for sticking molding and emblems onto cars it is about as thick as scotch tape and super strong. You should be able to find it at an auto parts store.
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Jan 18, 2008 02:03
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Cybor Tap posted:I've been house sitting my parents' place for the past few weeks, though I have an apartment in the city. I returned to my apartment last night to find it torn up (the landlord is redoing my kitchen), but I didn't realize it was going to be now. You could also use the bucket to fill up the tank and then flush as normal. You just would have to fill the tank every time, but I would think that would be better than potentially splashing doo-doo water on yourself.
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Jan 29, 2008 12:42
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Feathers posted:
You might be able to get away with wrapping thinner copper wire around the tip and tinning it. It probably won't last as long as a proper tip but might be a good stop-gap measure until you can find a proper smaller tip.
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Mar 26, 2008 04:22
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Jake Gittes posted:I've just moved into a new place, and my shower floor drain is draining alarmingly slow. I've tried Dran-O, but that onlt temporarily relieved the problem. I've now picked up a bottle of Lye to attack the problem, but there are all sorts of warnings about not using it if other products have failed. Can I go ahead and try it, or am I potntially getting ready to create a mush of toxic mutagen in my plumbing? Our one bathtub drain got stopped up, and it took my Dad and I about an hour of steady plunging to force the clog out. After trying multiple other nasty chemicals. The zipit thing did nothing to it either.
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May 24, 2009 15:27
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If you are going to get a wheel get this one instead. http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-545D-545-Diamond-Wheel/dp/B00004UDI9/ref=sr_1_66?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1264465385&sr=1-66 It is a diamond impregnated metal, and lasts about 1000 times longer than any of the other abrasive wheels. I have one I bought more than 5 years ago and it still cuts fine, and it won't explode in your face like the other disks do.
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Jan 26, 2010 01:25
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enki42 posted:I left a 3/4 full (but closed) can of varathane in my trunk over a particularly cold (-19C) night. The next morning it was a slushy mess. The outside of the can says "Keep from Freezing" - am I completely screwed on this can, or is it worth giving it a shot now that it's thawed? What does it look like now that it is thawed? Varathane is water based right? The water in it froze, it probably separated some. Stir the poo poo out of it and test it on a scrap piece of wood. If it looks/cures fine it is probably fine.
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Feb 2, 2010 02:32
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Does it have trim pieces, it's hard to tell with the plastic there but it looks to me just like a solid wood door. If that's the case it looks like the raised panel either came out of the slot, or the side that is in the slot broke. Doors like that the panels aren't glued or fastened with any mechanical fasteners so they can expand and contract independently of the frame and not crack or break. If it is doing what I think it is doing then you taking the door off the hinges and lay it flat on some saw horses and get that bottom piece of wood off by heating or steaming the joint apart. once you get it apart and see if the panel just came loose or it is broken on that side, then you would have to reseat the panel in the rabbets and glue the bottom piece back on. ninja edit: Exploded view of a raised panel door for clarity  not my pic just the first one I could google up and re-host. Thumposaurus fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Feb 13, 2010 |
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Feb 13, 2010 20:55
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Epoxy a strong magnet to the back side of the lip, it won't affect accuracy. The only thing it would affect would be that the tape wouldn't retract fully, but that shouldn't be that big of a deal.
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Feb 15, 2010 03:38
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scuz posted:
Spray a light coat of clear over the tape after you put it down to seal the edges, and pull the tape as soon as the color coat feels tacky. Pull the tape back over itself. All of that should help you get nice crisp lines.
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May 9, 2010 20:00
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Ugh. Painting/detailing question.
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Epoxies can usually be thinned with denatured alcohol, but if the rubbing alcohol didn't do anything to it I'm not sure the denatured alcohol would. Maybe try naphtha(zippo fluid) first, then lacquer thinner, then acetone. Test the lacquer thinner and acetone in an inconspicuous place on your desk first.
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Aug 8, 2010 00:02
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Rossilius posted:I just helped someone move into a home that she just started renting, a beautiful old home with lots of character. Thankfully the landlord, who doesn't give a drat about the place, has said she has free reign to fix up the house however she pleases. From her bedroom there are two small doors with a few window panes that were painted probably a year or two ago. Whatever idiots painted it forgot that you need to remove painter's tape from surfaces after you paint, and so each of the window panes (on the outside, so exposed to the elements) now has dried and flaking painter's tape on it. If you attempt to remove it, small pieces just disintegrate off, but it's drat near impossible to get any substantial amount of the tape off. She (and I) lives in New Orleans, so the tape has been exposed to ridiculous humidity, heat, and rainfall, tacking it that much more onto the windows' surfaces. I'd love to get the tape off but have as yet had nothing but trouble in attempting to do so. Soak the tape with WD-40 or Goof-Off or something else made for dissolving adhesive and go at it with a razor blade. Hold it like a scraper and scrape the "sharp" part against the glass, if you saturate the tape with your adhesive remover it should come right off. Then you can clean the glass with windex or something.
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Aug 23, 2010 20:10
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Balsa wood.
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Nov 20, 2010 02:51
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ancient lobster posted:Thanks for all the advice, I'll keep these things in mind. I realized I'm going to be staying with my uncle in a few weeks,and he does woodworking. So I'll ask him what he thinks, and maybe he'll be able to help me with the assembly. You could look at "starboard" or one of the other composite wood products. They can be a little more spendy than wood, but are made for marine environments. Any boat store should sell them, Starboard is a brand name.
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Dec 31, 2010 03:53
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thepedestrian posted:I need to cut some 2x4s, plywood and metal or pvc siding for a few projects I'm working on. I don't currently own any power tools besides a drill. I was going to buy the cheapest circular saw Home Depot has, but before I thought I'd ask y'all since I have no idea what the right tool is for the job. All the cuts will be straight, nothing fancy. Hit up your local pawn shops too as well as craigslist like dwoloz said. I've seen circular saws at thrift stores too.
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Jan 4, 2011 03:08
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Hellwuzzat posted:Did DIY&H ever have a metal milling/machining thread? Is there anyone around this forum that likes to play with mills and lathes and such? There is a general metalworking/welding/blacksmithing thread here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2905844
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Jan 18, 2011 22:24
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Mandated burial depth is 18"-4' depending on stuff, but that doesn't mean the lazy scrub from Time/Warner (or Comcast/Qwest/Verizon/etc) will actually do more than casually scrape a bit of a trench with his boot heel. Those guys are LAZY. It took me running over the phone cable here with the lawn mower twice before they would come and bury it deep enough so a normal rain shower wouldn't expose it.
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Apr 16, 2011 19:10
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melon cat posted:I'm building a mini-greenhouse for some plants we're growing. 1. A utility knife and a good straight edge. You score along the straight edge and snap it to cut. 2. Find a Black and Decker Workmate it is exactly what you need. The top is expandable and can also act as a clamp itself. While the whole thing folds flat and could be stored under a bed if need be.
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Jul 23, 2011 23:43
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wormil posted:We have a square halogen light on the back of our house and I want to change the glass from clear to yellow so I don't attract bugs. I expected there to be ready made products for this but I couldn't find any so I'm heading over to the glass place tomorrow. If they don't have yellow glass, what else can I use that would withstand heat from the halogen bulb? A lighting Gel for stage lights maybe? It comes in sheets. stage lights get pretty hot so I think it could stand up to a household halogen.
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Aug 13, 2011 22:20
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lessthankyle posted:I'm planning on creating a wall piece that will be a scaled-down map of the NYC subways, with each stop being a light corresponding to the line's color (red, green, blue, etc). There's 500-some stops to cover, so I'll need a lot of lights. Might want to have a look at fiber optics too. Then you would only need one of each light source and run individual strands of fiber to each stop you want lit up.
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Dec 6, 2011 15:56
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This is a pretty good guide on doing it to a guitar cab. Should be able to adapt it to your project fairly easily. http://guitarkitbuilder.com/content/how-apply-tolex-guitar-amplifier-cabinet
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Dec 21, 2011 20:11
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I Love Topanga posted:I don't know where this question belongs so I'm going to try here. My parents had a french door fridge in too small a place when they moved into their current house. It was horrible, getting anything in/out of the freezer side was nearly impossible. It ended up getting relocated to the basement as a spare/beer fridge and they bought a normal single door fridge.
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Mar 30, 2012 22:50
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FCKGW posted:Is using granite for a garage workbench top a terrible idea? I wouldn't want the whole bench top to be granite, but a section of granite can be nice to have as a flat surface for attaching sandpaper to for flattening or sharpening things.
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Apr 6, 2012 13:39
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The Human Cow posted:Crossposting from the woodworking thread: My Dad has a similar lathe in storage inherited from a grandfather. If it is like his it doesn't actually have a motor in the head. The motor sits below it in a stand and the head just has 3 or 4 pulleys to offer a primitive speed control.
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Jul 20, 2012 00:44
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Psalmanazar posted:Thanks for the information but I'll be working on making a new body. Beaten many times but post your progress here http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3486580
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Sep 10, 2012 00:25
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Build a deadman! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWWlHr3Kkrg
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Apr 15, 2013 01:57
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uwaeve posted:I'm looking for a good resource for opening/closing/maintaining/cleaning a 24' above-ground pool. It seems like a lot of my searching gets me to small, contradictory articles on what to do. Find a local pool chemical supply store and ask what they recommend. Most of them have a service where you bring them a water sample and they can analyze it and tell you what you need.
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Jun 26, 2013 18:22
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Corla Plankun posted:What's that website with the HUGE selection of hardware and materials? It layout is very basic and it has an exhaustive list of pretty much every imaginable raw material and I forgot to bookmark it last time I saw it because I am terrible. McMaster-Carr?
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Jul 14, 2013 21:45
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Bean bag chairs/couch?
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Jul 22, 2013 21:27
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Shower head chat: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006FYABAE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1387409179&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40 This is the best shower head ever. It's cheap solid brass and if you have low water pressure it amplifies it.
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Dec 19, 2013 00:28
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Minorkos posted:Anyone know how spray lacquer and acrylic paint typically interact with each other? It might wrinkle or affect the acrylic in some way, but you never really know until you try. To minimize it go real easy on the first coats literally dusting it on. That should let you build up a layer to seal it in with out affecting it. You can also use a layer of spray on shellac as a barrier coat things tend to not inteact with the shellac as much as solvents in lacquers. Or just use shellac as the top coat.
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Nov 16, 2016 19:48
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Maybe muratic acid as a last resort but you might have to do the whole patio to have it not be a bright spot.
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Mar 15, 2017 22:42
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uwaeve posted:This is the mounting spot for our storm door closer. There's one on top of the door as well, but I'd like to double up. The wood is split where the two door-side screws go in. Is this a multitool-cut and replace thing, or should I just toothpick and glue it? The wood feels mostly fine, but near the split it's a little soft. Minwax sells a wood hardener (heh) that you just brush on and let soak in. That + toothpicks might be enough to solidify and prevent any further damage to the area.
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Apr 10, 2017 17:14
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LawfulWaffle posted:I built these pallets that are supposed to fit over a pan, but when the pan arrived it was about 3/16" too wide to fit. My solution was to buy a router attachment for my Dremel 200 and shave off a bit's width down the inside edge. The pan is an inch tall and I need to shave down 80 inches in total. Do you think my Dremel can handle that kind of work? I don't have much in the way of power tools but I plan on buying a circular saw on Friday. 80 inches is over 6 feet do you have a measurement muck up somewhere? Going through 6 feet of anything with a dremel is gonna be tough.
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Jul 6, 2017 21:47
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Has anybody dabbled in making stuff out of metal studs? I'm doing an experiment with them to see if I can hold up a big grill for an outdoor kitchen. I got the most basic frame together and it's kind of rickety. In truth, I would have this problem with pressure-treated pine at this point. However, I'm wondering if there is special consideration I should give towards how to being to reinforce it. It looks like I should try to use the wide part of the metal stud for structure. My Dad and I made an outdoor kitchen area framed out with metal studs about 10 years ago. The frame itself is pretty rickity until you skin it with something. We used the concrete tile backer board. Then tiled over the whole thing. Big rear end grill set right in the center of it.
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Jul 26, 2017 13:04
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Josh Lyman posted:Well, that's... not encouraging. One thing I'm confused about is why you say removing the cleanout cover could be an issue. Doesn't it just cover a pipe that goes down to the trap? By my naive understanding, the only risk is if it isn't put back properly which could allow splashing water to leak through, but that's what the caulk is for. He's saying that if it's never been removed then it's probably effectively one piece of metal at this point due to corrosion and crap building up behind it over the years.
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Mar 2, 2018 23:58
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Get a porthole from a boat that would fit.
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Jan 10, 2019 12:58
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There's usually a sign mounted inside the elevator saying something about any damage or malfunction should be reported to xxx-xxx-xxxx number.
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Apr 7, 2019 13:14
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BENGHAZI 2 posted:my apartment complex installed glue up shower walls a few months back because the tile wall was falling apart. the problem is, they suck butts and are bad at everything and didnt caulk three sides of the walls and now one of them has mostly peeled up off the shower wall because the glue completely failed and the caulk is failing Squirt some liquid nails behind it and tape it in place until it's dry maybe. Caulk around the edges for cheap insurance.
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Jun 17, 2019 23:58
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Discospawn posted:I've been living in the top floor of a historic Los Angeles apartment building for several years now, but there's a feature I've never discovered the purpose of. Along the outward-facing wall and part of a connecting wall, there are these strips of metal screwed or bolted to the wood floor. Are you sure they just aren't from earthquake rehab? A lot of the older buildings had to be retro fitted after the last big one out there. Adam Corolla talks about it a lot on his various podcasts.
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Aug 13, 2019 05:10
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