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Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
Hope this is the right thread for 4x4 purchasing questions: I've been looking into buying a mid 2000s Lexus GX 470 (probably an '07), as it seems like they tend to be cheaper than 4Runners at a given mileage around here (also it seems most original owners don't buy these for off-roading, so most have been babied). Is it worth tracking down a model with KDSS? It sounds like it gives real benefits both for on road driving (fully engages the huge swaybars when cornering to reduce body roll and improve the handling feel) and off-road (essentially disconnects the sway bar so the car stays more level when the wheels are sitting at different heights). This sounds appealing as this wouldn't be used strictly for off-roading, and I like the feel of thicker sways when cornering on pavement (I've been running upgraded swaybars on my Subaru for years). I'd plan on lifting the vehicle a bit and probably moving to aftermarket suspension components eventually (rather than replace the rear airbags when they start to go), but from what I understand you can keep the KDSS when doing upgrades like this (at least up to a certain level of lift). So in theory it sounds great, and from what I've read online people seem to like it, but it's hard to tell if it's just "nice to have" or an actual game changer. From what I gather KDSS was a very rare option, so finding one with it would add a lot of hassle and time to my search (amplified by the fact that it's hard to tell if the vehicle has the KDSS option via listing pics unless there's an underneath pic). Does anyone have any input?

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Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
I assume that means replacing a nav unit with something aftermarket or a non-nav OEM unit isn't trivial?

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

highme posted:

I don’t remember who the op was (sorry op) but there was a great GX470 buyers guide posted in the thread in the last year or two.

Believe this is the post, and the GXOR guide itself: https://lexusgxor.com/general:purchasing. There was also some GX related buying discussion on page 92, didn't look back much further than that. Thanks for the tip!

One thing I've learned is there does now appear to be an aftermarket replacement for GX470s with factory nav (and someone else making custom firmware for those). Expensive, and doesn't seem like the greatest from what I've seen, but it's there if you want Android Auto or CarPlay.

I believe there's also a way to replace the radio segment w/ an aftermarket single din unit using a Beat Sonic MVA-81 while leaving the factory nav/climate control in tact. Again, expensive for what it is.

Personally, as long as I have Bluetooth or an AUX I won't be too fused as I'm perfectly happy mounting a phone holder on the dash and just using my phone (but maybe that's because I haven't had a car with anything nice built in before). I do think it's marginally less distracting to look at the dash-top/windshield level for directions rather than down at the HVAC/radio area. Regardless, there's hardly any cars available that I'm seeing without factory nav (the few I've seen so far have been more beat up older models with significantly higher mileage).

I must say, I'm currently enamored with the idea of KDSS, to the point where I'm considering flying in somewhere to pick one up (they seem rare enough that the chances of one showing up local-ish any time soon would be a crapshoot). Looking for models with the Sport trim seems like the best way to spot it in online ads, as while I believe it was available as an independent option some years, most ads don't seem to mention it or show any under body pics (which is the only other way to tell AFAIK other than checking what dash lights show when you turn the car on). The black wood trim of the sport package is also a nice bonus too compared to the stock trim. From what I've been reading, KDSS does sound great for what I indend to do (not solely an off-road build, lifting only 2-3"), and a majority of reports from people that have driven both KDSS/non-KDSS GX's or 4Runners say they felt it was at least worth it, if not must have. My main hesitations with it are a) aftermarket part fitment (though there do seem to be plenty of aftermarket parts specifically designed to fit around KDSS these days), b) some work becomes harder due to KDSS being in the way, and c) while it does seem to be a reliable system (not seeing many reports of it failing), it is one more thing that can break, and if it does break it's either a very expensive repair, or a hassle to delete. I probably should just say gently caress it and get a local non-KDSS option, but there is something to be said about waiting for a vehicle that checks all the boxes when it's something you might plan on keeping for 10+ years.

I'm also excited about the full time 4WD in the GX470 (essentially AWD via a Torsion center LSD as best I can tell), as this seems like an ideal setup for ski trips where curvy road conditions often frequently change from pavement to mixed to snow and back (which isn't ideal for locking the center from what I gather). Also makes me feel more at home as someone who has owned a couple Subarus.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
Finally pulled the trigger on a 2007 GX 470. Time to get to work! After changing all the fluids, first task is trimming the running boards to increase clearance between the wheels.

e: pics or it didn't happen


It's very clean for it's age and in great shape. Has nav unfortunately, but finding a non-nav in decent shape didn't seem like it was going to happen any time soon. The few that had it were all either very high mileage and/or very well worn.

Splinter fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Aug 31, 2020

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

powderific posted:

Looks great! How many miles? Did you wind up finding one with KDSS?

133k, no KDSS. It was one of the few that popped up locally (2 hours away) and drove significantly better than the other one in the area I test drove. A few decent looking KDSS options popped up, but they all ended up being questionable. For instance, after asking for underbody pics: "in pretty good shape, just a bit of surface rust" **entire underbody completely rusted** "oh BTW engine just threw a code while test driving". Or another one with a long string of "customer declined service" in the service history for major issues, followed by auction (makes me think owner hit rough times and couldn't afford repairs), followed by being sold at a shady dealership that had some of the worst reviews I've seen (wasn't going to fly out to deal with that). There was a OK looking '05 with the sport package and 160k only a cheap hour flight away that I almost went to check out, but a) while it seemed relatively well maintained (regular oil changes, rear air bags just replaced) there were a few red flags: "owner complained about trouble turning into parking spots, found center diff lock engaged, disengaged center diff lock" (who knows how long "the wife" was driving on pavement w/ the diff locked) and still no timing belt service by 160k, b) wasn't nearly as clean as the one I got, and c) the convenience of being able to do everything locally (test drives, 3rd party inspection, paperwork etc didn't need to all fit into a single day) with no pressure to buy immediately to avoid having to pay for a hotel or flight was too hard to pass up. So in the end, I never drove one with KDSS. I'm sure the KDSS version feels better on curvy paved roads (just based on my experience switching other cars to beefier swaybar setups), but the non-KDSS version already handles better than I'd expect for its size, and it's not like a vehicle this big will ever really inspire sporty driving.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

powderific posted:

One other thing I'm not sure if got mentioned, these engines have a secondary air injection system that inevitably goes wrong and will throw a code. You can get a bypass thingy that just turns it off entirely and not worry about it though.

I've been looking more into this as I saw it come up in some other threads. Is this something you just do preemptively ASAP, or wait until it shows signs of failing then delete? Did you go with the Hewitt SAIS Toyota Bypass Kit? Seeing that one recommended.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
From what I've read, at least regarding the Hewitt kit, is that it essentially tells the ECU that the secondary air test was performed and sets the appropriate code, so it does pass emissions.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
GX gang represent:



This is after putting a 2" Dobinsons MRA lift on a few weeks ago (which handles incredible offroad even without spending time messing with the shock adjustments). Going to add sliders and larger AT tires at some point (the ones this came with still have lots of tread left so trying to be responsible here...).

Don't get a 460, those grills are atrocious.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

Paulie posted:

I did end up with a 460. 2011 Peridot mica green premium package. It's pre-facelift, so it doesn't have the crazy mustache look. It just looks a bit dated.

Eventually it will get a bull bar of some sort and a small lift and slightly larger tires, but nothing too crazy. I want to enjoy the nice luxury ride as long as possible.

I was eyeballing the ironman4x4 bumper but didn't want to pull the trigger until the rig was in my possession. Of course today upon securing the vehicle, the price has gone back up 300 bux.



Seconding waiting until you lift before getting a steel bumper. They're a decent amount of additional weight so you might want to move to a higher spring rate around the same time.

Congrats on the new truck!

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
I also have a Viair 400p-Auto. I really like the auto off/on feature (if you're not pumping for a few seconds, it turns itself off until you hit the gun again so you're not wasting duty cycle while going between wheels or vehicles). Not sure I'd get another compressor without this feature. I've used it a few times for airing up after off-roading with no issues, but have also used it a ton just for keeping tires at optimal pressure in general. No more having to deal with this with a gas station compressor.

To 2021 Tacoma person, a winch is a pretty big decision as it usually requires a) and upgraded front suspension to handle the increased weight (which is also about as far from the axle as you can get), and b) a bumper modification (hidden winch mount) or full on aftermarket bumper (both of which are probably adding a significant amount of steel to your front end, which in addition to the weight is also probably throwing off the crash safety performance). It's a big step towards turning the truck into a purpose built off-road vehicle as opposed to a general purpose vehicle that's very off-road capable. Is that what you really want on a brand new Taco?

Not trying to discourage you, maybe a winch is what you need for the trails you want to tackle, just want to encourage you to really think it through and maybe get a feel for what the truck is capable of first (go out with a buddy who can help you recover if necessary and play around). I'd personally put tires before winch on the list of priorities (so if you're sticking with stock tires for 20-30k, I think you might be jumping the gun on a winch).

As far as non-electric winch options, I believe you can kinda winch with a hi lift jack if you're careful, but I've never personally done this (I imagine there are plenty of youtube videos on this).

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

AmbassadorofSodomy posted:

Performance in a crash is definitely something I've thought about as it seems most hidden mounts require removal of the crash bar. I don't know how much that would effect minor vs major collisions. Maybe losing the crash bar means that in a minor collision, my bumper cover would get more hosed up, than normal, but in a major, it wouldn't matter because that poo poo's getting replaced anyway for example.... And also I really really really like factory warranties. How would removing some poo poo at the front affect my warranty WRT to airbags, and/or collision avoidance tech that might be on this thing.

I'm not an expert in crash systems or anything, but my concern with bypassing or partially bypassing the stock bumper with something rigid like steel mounted to the frame is it would throw off how force is transferred or the timing of how force is transferred, which could throw off how things are designed to crumple or the timing of when airbags deploy. Not sure how much of a safety concern that is for the modified car in practice though. My guess is something like a steel bumper actually protects your engine bay components more than the stock bumper, at the expense of more damage to whatever you hit (since your frontend is now crumpling less).

IANAL, but In the US, I believe warranty coverage can only be denied due to aftermarket modifications if the company can say the mods potentially caused or contributed to the damaged. So for example, powertrain coverage generally can't be denied due to the presence of an aftermarket suspension. When the mods are related to the damage though, they can deny coverage (e.g. manufacturer claims a steel bumper caused airbags to deploy when they wouldn't have stock), and if that happens I think the burden of proof is ultimately on you (and may require litigation) if you disagree with their decision (and in some cases it may be hard to prove they're wrong even if they probably are).

Splinter fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Apr 19, 2021

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
The idea that SPCs aren't supposed to be used in lifts sounds made up to me. I believe on Toyotas at least, the UCAs don't receive much of the vehicle load, so I wouldn't be concerned with them not being strong enough (and they certainly seem stronger than OEM). FWIW they were redesigned a few years ago as a one piece cast rather than being welded and new bushings. Main downsides IMO are the proprietary ball joint (rather than being able to use something you can buy at any auto parts store should you need a replacement ASAP like you can with some UCAs) and the adjustability (alignments are now more complicated). The adjustability is also a pro of course (can dial in your caster/camber rather than the one-size-fits-all approach of non-adjustable offset UCAs).

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
The 400p auto is worth it just because it turns itself off when you're not actually pumping air, as you might expect a pump that has a not-100% duty cycle to do. Looks like prices have gone up though.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
Might want to do some research into whether a diff drop even makes sense. I know at least on some Toytoa 120/150 platform vehicles, they do more harm than good: significant reduction in ground clearance for not much change in CV axle angle (which generally aren't even that bad in the first place after a moderate lift).

I believe it's Elka that's making the Toytec Boss Aluma series these days.

Other shocks to checkout are Dobinsons (popular Australian brand) IMS (for a 2.2" IFP shock) or MRA (for remote reservoir / adjustable). I believe they've been raising their prices recently, but they were (and probably still are) great price-performance options. Lots of people in the GX/LC Prado community have been using them and seem to be very satisfied. From what I gathered talking to vendors, they also tend to last a lot longer before needing to be rebuilt compared to more racing oriented brands like Icon and King.

At this point, I'd try to wait until November/black friday deals if you can as you'll probably see some significant savings on whatever you go with.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

ili posted:

Dobbo MRAs look like good value but I'd want to be sure they've solved their alleged QA problems. There was a number of reports of their MRR shocks blowing hoses or fittings which doesn't fill me with confidence.
So far so good with 20k on MRAs on my GX :ohdear:. Definitely would've been fine with the IMS (as performance wise they are essentially the same as MRAs if you don't need the extra cooling capacity of the remote reservoirs), but I wanted to be able to swap in stiffer springs as I build out the truck without having to re-valve (and also wanted to be able to dial in the ride, but the default settings were good so I haven't really messed with that much yet). They were also only $2k w/ springs with the black friday sale (though I believe equivalent IMS setup was only around $1100, so really I just hate money). One note about the MRAs is (at least at the time) they didn't have 100% GX specific mounting brackets (e.g. washer fluid reservoir blocks where one of the brackets is supposed to mount -- might have something to do with the differences between US and international Toyota models), so I had to get a bit creative during install (which was annoying and ultimately made the job take a couple hours longer than it otherwise would've). Not sure if that's still the case or if it also applies to Tacos/4runners/FJs.

Arishtat posted:

The diff drop is already installed and besides the skid plate is the lowest hanging bit (as it should be) under the nose. Whether or not it is truly necessary is an open debate, but it isn’t hurting anything so I’ll leave well enough alone.
But did the diff drop kit not also lower the skid plates in the middle via longer bolts? The issue is since diff drops on these trucks drop the front of the diff, but the axles go in toward the rear of the diff, you only get a fraction of the drop @ the axle (e.g. a 1" drop only drops the axle 0.25" or something like that). Diagram for reference. In other words, if you want to correct CV angle, you actually lose less ground clearance for the same correction just by running less lift in the front. That combined with GXs, 4th gen+ 4Runners and 2nd gen+ Tacos being able to handle a decent amount of lift without making the CV angles too bad is why some say they do more harm than good. Ultimately probably not a huge difference either way if you're not banging rocks a ton.

Arishtat posted:

Icons and Kings are off the table for precisely the reason you cited, they have a relatively short service life before needing a rebuild which means dealing with swapping them out and shipping them, etc.

As for the Dobinsons I have plenty of friends that went with them and results have been very mixed so I’m wary of them in general.
FWIW I believe Elka is more of a racing brand too (not that familiar w/ them), though I have to imagine Toytec would ask them to make something more biased to daily driving/longevity.

With the Doibs, do you know if they were they nitros, IMS or MRR/MRAs? They've been fine thus far on my end, but friends with bad experiences is an understandable reason to go with something else.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

Arishtat posted:

That would have been an issue for 2018 me, but 2021 me has no problem solving the remote reservoir mounting problem if that is even a thing.
Yeah it wasn't really that big of a deal, just unexpected. Most of the extra time was just 'wtf' moments trying to figure out how the brackets were supposed to fit and then more 'wtf' moments realizing they weren't all going to fit as designed. After realizing a drill was going to be necessary it was pretty straight forward. For one of the rears I had to drill a new hole in the bracket to change the angle it sat at a bit as the OEM gas tank skid was slightly in the way. In the front I just ended up not using their brackets as a) passenger side the washer fluid reservoir was in the way, and b) in general they were meant to piggy pack onto the sway bar mounting bolts, but those had already been commandeered by my recovery points. IIRC I have seen people requesting new brackets from Dobs so may not even be an issue anymore (and it's possible this was more of a GX specific issue due to minor differences between the Prado/4Runner).

Arishtat posted:

Unfortunately not but I can query around. My information may also be out of date as I was paying far more attention to other people's suspension when I was shopping for my own back in late 2017. :v:

Out of curiosity what do you tend to use your GX for and do you have any pics handy?
Was just wondering as my assumption is the nitros are pretty meh and not much different than other cheap twin tube options, but was interested if they were also having problems with IMS/MRAs, but nbd.

Most of my offroad driving with the GX has been exploring in the desert as I used to live in small town New Mexico and could be on decent trails within 15 minutes of my house (back in coastal CA now which means hours of driving to get to anything fun :(). So think rocky/gravelly trails, rutted/washed out trails, sandy/rocky washes/creek beds (but not like beach/dune levels of sand), whoops, washboard dirt roads, some rocky canyons. Almost no mud as even when it rains/snows everything dries very quickly. Nothing too technical IMO and in particular was avoiding anything approaching serious rock crawling as I was often out alone (with no winch) and also wanted better armor (still running stock skids). My experience after going to MRAs from twin tubes was similar to Ferremit: they handle rough terrain much better, especially with weight & speed, and even in spots where I'd slow to a crawl, everything was just smoother/more comfortable especially on bigger drops. Had some more experience offroaders also make similar comments on how well they handled when they were riding with me. I think this has a lot to do with the benefits of a decent monotube shock over cheap twin tubes, regardless of brand.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

MomJeans420 posted:

If any of you guys driving around AZ happen to pass through Prescott, I recommend stopping at Superstition Meadery (although probably not if you have to keep on driving after that).

Re: spare tires, I think most people here have cars that allow larger spares without modification, but my spare tire goes under the vehicle and the room is limited by the KDSS system and my trailer hitch. When I get new wheels and tires I won't be able to fit my spare, so I can either go aftermarket or just strap it to my roof rack. I have a few options, but none that seem like the obvious choice and all of them seem ridiculously expensive:

JW Offroad - $900 carrier that mounts to the rear barn door. I don't mind cutting up the rear door, but I already have a folding table mounted to the inside of the door and it's heavy from the factory.

Expedition One rear bumper - $2400 once you include all the options and powder coating. I like that the tire is not supported by the door, but there were some problems with the bumper damaging some other part of the car (I thought rear passenger door but I don't see how...). Supposedly fixed now, but also very expensive.

Rigd hitch carrier - $1400 plus you'll need to add on the backup camera extension and a license plate mount. The only thing this has going for it is I could just leave the spare tire at home unless I was going out on the trails. For around town I have AAA and after someone I know got killed changing their tire on the side of the freeway I've decided against changing my own tire on the side of the freeway. It also seems insanely expensive for what it is.

I've seen some nice one-off / custom setups that use a swingarm like the Expedition One bumper but just drill a hole in the stock bumper, and they seem like the best in terms of price / performance, but then you're dealing a one-off design that may not be as tested as others. I'm leaning towards the JW Offroad just because that's the cheapest and most commonly used tire carrier for the GXs, but I'm open to other suggestions.

Once you get into full bumpers, I believe there are more options for rear carriers and swing outs other than Expedition One that might be a little cheaper and/or not have issues like you mentioned reported (e.g. Coastal Offroad, Victory 4x4).

I've seen some of those custom swing outs and agree it's one of the better solutions, but as someone that doesn't have the confidence to design one of these myself, I'd want someone to turn this style of solution into a kit (have a feeling this might happen at some point soon) to get more feedback/reviews before going this route.

I've heard the JW carrier can have some issues with heavier wheel/tire combos: at some point the weight causes the door to droop enough that the latch doesn't quite line up unless you kinda lift the door up a little while you close it. Not sure when this starts to become a problem. It still 'works' in that situation, but seems like a bad sign for longevity. In general there is longevity concern with having the tire mounted directly to the door, but thus far there haven't been any consistently reported issues related to this from what I can tell from postings on the GXOR FB group. I don't think the weight of your folding table will be all that significant in comparison to the carrier/spare, but it depends on what you went with.

The Wilco HitchGate Solo is another option for a hit mounted carrier/swing out, but it's not much different price wise than the Rigid. I like this solution in theory: not permanent, not supported by the door, not as heavy as a full on bumper, doesn't require welding. But yeah, price/weight wise once you're spending that much it's hard to justify not just going with a full on bumper for the added benefits (e.g. better departure angle, more protection). If I did go that route I think I'd try to keep the spare in the trunk when I don't need the cargo space, and only throw the carrier on when I actually need the space (and maybe just for longer trips, might just leave the spare at home if I just need the cargo space to haul something across town from home depot or w/e). However, I have a feeling throwing on the carrier and mounting the tire would be just enough of a hassle that I'd very quickly just end up leaving it on full-time (at which point we're back to "why not just get a bumper").

Not sure how much help that is, but yeah, it's an annoying thing to deal with when moving to larger tires on a GX. Enough so that I've decided to go with tires that will still fit in the spare location (at least when aired down: which comes with the annoyance of the TPMS warning light always being on) and see how that goes. However, I don't have KDSS, so I think I can fit something a bit larger than you can (though I do still have the factory hitch).

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

IOwnCalculus posted:

Do those people not have spines or something? You don't need to for traction but holy gently caress you want every bit of compliance you can manage for comfort alone.

Yeah, if I'm going to be offroad for any significant distance on anything remotely rocky, I'm airing down just for comfort/speed even if it's not technically challenging at all. It's amazing how much of a difference in ride even just 10 PSI makes.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

MomJeans420 posted:

The Coastal Offroad bumper is actually reasonable priced, that's tempting due to the price of the JW carrier.
I think the one catch with the Coastal Offroad bumper is the bumper itself comes in pieces and needs to be welded together (in addition to then needing to be welded to the truck). That's not that unusual, but it's worth noting that some of the more expensive options are shipping you a fully assembled bumper that just needs to be installed to the truck. The Coastal approach saves on shipping and initial cost, but results in a significant increase in labor for the install. So if you're not doing the welding yourself, you might wanna check with the shop, as the additional labor could end up making it just as expensive as some of those other options depending on their rate and how much extra time the want to bill for the assembly.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

FogHelmut posted:

My buddy is a part owner in this company and he's not an authoritarian or a hater - https://explore-overland.com/

Looks like I just missed the black friday deal, but I think I might still pull the trigger on GX 470 sliders from these guys, as the price is still great (appears to still be somewhat discounted) and they have reasonable shipping costs (looks like a flat $100, while others are charging like $150-200).

e: I emailed them about the black friday code (since their website was still advertising it last night but the code was inactive) and they just added the code back for me...bolt-on, 10 degree, HREW sliders w/ kickout & top plate for $600 shipped :sotw:. Haven't seen a price like that since everyone started raising their prices due to steel prices rising. Everything else similar seems to be in the $850-1250 range shipped (though tbf some of those are w/ DOM).

Splinter fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Dec 1, 2021

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

Commodore_64 posted:

RE: Diff breather chat
Hopefully the membrane prevents fumes from getting out ?????

Isn't the whole point of goretex and similar membranes to stop water while still letting vapor (which my uneducated self would assume also means fumes) pass through?

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

arbybaconator posted:

I have a 2021 Lunar Rock 4Runner TRD Pro. Resale is pretty nuts right now, and I can drat near do a new 1:1 trade for a 2022 Lexus GX460 Blackline in Nori Green. My TRD is a very capable off-roader, but I like some of the creature comforts and safety features of the GX460.

I currently use the 4runner for errands and a few roadtrips/camping/light off-roading.

Would this be a bad decision?

Lexus GX460


My 4Runner


The TRD Pro is more capable off road stock (I believe the Pro comes with a rear locker, yes?), but the 460 will still be reasonably capable for light off-roading. The platforms are very similar, so if you upgrade the 460 a bit you can close the gap, but then that's even more money spent, and with the TRD you have the benefit of all those upgrades being covered under warranty (since they're stock). Approach angle on a stock height 460 also isn't that great IIRC due to that huge grill. The 4Runner also looks better for my tastes.

However, as you said, you only are doing light offroading, so maybe the better offroad capability isn't a big deal. Outside of that, the 460 is generally at least as capable or better for around town/roadtrips/camping/towing. The engine difference in particular is significant, as the 460's V8 makes more HP and significantly more torque while achieving similar MPG ratings as the TRD Pro (I'm guessing the MPGs are largely due to the TRD Pro coming with larger diameter tires stock...I believe they are about an inch larger). Plus the Lexus interior luxuries.

Personally I'd keep the TRD Pro, but the 460 does make more sense for many.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
I can try to answer any GX questions you may have.

Non-nav is preferable. You can convert a non-nav to nav, but finding the non-nav climate control unit for your year to do the conversion can be tough (without paying over $1k for the part from Lexus/Toyota), and you'd still need to expect to spend in the $300-500+ range for that second hand. This is especially true if you have an '06-09, as it seems like a vast majority of those versions were sold with nav. However, it is possible, and even with an '07 I was lucky and was able to snag the proper climate control unit from a guy on ih8mud from Kazakhstan (actually in the middle of doing the conversion right now). IIRC there are 4 different of climate units depending on manufacture date ('02-04, '04-05, '05, '06-09). The newer you go, the harder it is to find a non-nav climate unit. There are some options for upgraded head unit experiences with the nav version, but they all seem to have some sort of downside that's going to have you still wanting non-nav (and no matter which option you go with, if you have nav some of the climate controls will be via a screen).

KDSS is another one of the major options. I believe all sport trim GX's have it, but I believe it was also possible to add separately from the sport package (at least some years). It sounds like KDSS can be nice, especially if you're only aiming to do lighter off road stuff, but it's also pretty hard to find. You'll either be paying a significant premium for it, and/or it will get swooped up fast. KDSS needs to be deleted if you want more than ~2" of lift, and KDSS complicates some suspension work. "KDSS lean" is also an issue people run into and have to correct, especially after installing lifts. You'll also find less options for things like sliders and skid plates if you have KDSS (though there's still plenty of options these days). I originally was set on finding a KDSS model, but eventually I gave up. I can't say I ever think too much about lack of KDSS or regret not waiting for it. It definitely felt good not having to do the KDSS specific steps when I was upgrading the suspension.

Starting in 2005 they switched to the VVTI engine, which added some power. It also bumped the fuel recommendation from regular to premium, however, many say it's fine to run regular in the VVTI, the ECU will just dial things back a bit. I believe the VVTI makes some maintenance/repair harder, but I haven't encountered anything related to that yet. Also have seen people say the pre-VVTI is non-interference. I haven't looked to hard into whether that's actually the case, I'd just change the timing belt on schedule regardless.

Sport trim has the best / least dated looking wood trim (it's mostly blackish rather than light brown or dark brown). Again though, it's hard to find a sport. Just vinyl wrap the wood trims if it's something that'll bother you.

Cracked dashboards is another thing to look out for.

Some years had issues with the white (blizzard pearl) paint peeling (think this was mainly an 07-09 thing). There was a tsb/recall for some years (free repaint), but not all that were affected. At this point though it'll be pretty obvious if it's an issue with the truck you're looking at. Not gonna be something that surprises you years after you buy.

Aux input was added in '07 I believe. '07 the nav screen was also updated (higher resolution), so if you want to use something like a GROM VLine (android unit that adds modern features / carplay while keeping the factory nav unit/screen), you'll have a better experience than with the earlier models.

I believe Mark Levinson limits your options for speaker upgrades (without also having to get a new amp), and I believe you also can't easily swap an ML amp for a non-ML amp without also changing the speakers (due to impedances I believe). That means if your ML amp dies you either need to replace it with an ML amp (which I believe is expensive), or do some significant sound work. I'm probably missing some of the nuance here. The ML sound isn't bad by any means though, so unless you are very picky about your sound or get unlucky with a dead amp, it's not a huge issue.

e: I'm sure you're familiar with the suspension (and at this point not many are still running OEM), but the adjustable damping is actually pretty nice, you just only get it with OEM shocks (which are expensive). So that's gone if you ever lift or even just need to replace the original shocks @ stock height and want something more reasonably priced. The rear air suspension is nice for auto leveling based on your load, but it will leak. Being off road when the air compressor decides to turn itself off to avoid burning out isn't fun for you butt and spine (speaking from experience here). You can get the compressor to restart via jumping some pins once it's cooled down, so it's not completely game over once they start leaking. I'd just plan on converting to springs in the rear. If you need air features for say towing, you can always add helper bags.

Splinter fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Apr 27, 2022

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
Yeah, the non-sport wood grains are either light brown or a darker reddish brown, whereas sport is a dark charcoal color. If you really care about KDSS I'd always still ask for and underbody pick to confirm it, as who knows if some particular previous owner went through the hassle/expense of swapping all the wood trims to the sport color. Agree though that the KDSS premium / rarity on a 470 doesn't seem worth paying or waiting for, but otoh I've never driven a KDSS 470. Most sellers these days seem to know what they have if they have a sport model (and if not, there are lots of people ready to swoop).

About all I know about Xterras is there were some years that had transmission issues, but I think that was pre-2009.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
Congrats, looks good! Non-nav too. Already having the airbag delete will make things easier if you want switch up the suspension. Already having all the work done (including BMC) to fit the 34.4" tires also saved you a ton of work if you were planning on going that big. I'm guessing there's no matching spare though if it doesn't mention a tire carrier? There's no way those fit in the stock under-the-car spare location. If you're looking for a modern head unit w/ wireless carplay/android auto, the Joying unit that lots of people are getting from China seems to work well (I just 'finished' converting from nav to non-nav and installing the Joying unit last night...so far so good).

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

MomJeans420 posted:

I got really busy with life and haven't been on the forums in a while, but I also never got around to figuring out my lift situation. I kind of thought my wheels would never actually arrive, but they just got here the other day and are taking up valuable space in my garage so it's time to buy a lift:



(they look much more bronze in person)

This is for a 2017 GX460, I had been planning on going with Dobinsons MRR but the off-road shop where I purchased my wheels thinks Icon is significantly better if I'm not going to spring for something like Kings or Fox (I'm not). I'm pretty comfortable with Dobinsons just from the reviews I've seen on the GXOR FB group, but if anyone has opinions please let me know. I also need to find some UCAs, I asked about those a long time ago in here but forgot the responses. There are no shortage of UCA options and I can find haters / fans for all of them. I'd prefer ones that don't require too much maintenance but it's not a problem if I need to grease them every 10k miles. Some use ball joints you could find at the local auto parts store, others are proprietary, and there's a huge price range across the various options. I'm not suspension knowledgeable other than the basics and knowing how to setup a bike's suspension, so feel free to mansplain away.

Some options:
Dobinsons
Icon (tubular)
Total Chaos uniball
Total Chaos heim joint
IronMan
Apache Offroad
also JBA and SPC UCAs but I thought I had heard bad things about those, maybe I'm wrong on that though.

Advantage of SPCs are you can get your alignment dialed into spec rather than just a ballpark correction that may or may not be on point depending on how much you lift. Downside is at some shops that may come with an additional charge as it's one more thing to adjust, and some shops also might not know how to handle them (though I'm not sure that's a shop you'd want to be going to in the first place). I do feel like maybe recently I've been seeing more reports of issues with SPC, but part of that may just be due to their popularity, hard to know. They do require greasing every oil change or so, but you don't need to loosen any bolts to do it so it's not really much of a hassle. I went with SPC and so far they've held up fine, but I'm also not wheeling as hard as some people.

SPC use their own ball joint. They seem pretty easy to find in the US (e.g. Amazon has them with 1 day delivery), but probably wouldn't count on it being stocked at a local auto parts store for a trail repair. Apache and (I think) Dobinsons use OE style ball joints. Freedom has their own joint. I've heard people say Ironman UCAs are kinda overpriced for what you get (I think in general they inflate their MSRPs so their frequent sales and bundles look good), and you may as well go Apache or Freedom if you're considering Ironman. I never looked too hard into the Total Chaos stuff, but the vibe I get is they're more heavy duty, but at the expense of potentially more NVH. Also IIRC their greasing requires breaking loose a bolt and re-torquing. So depends on your intended uses. I forget exactly why, but Apache was the other final option I was considering other than SPC (believe the sale price was good value, plus the OE ball joints).

I've had Dobinsons MRAs for a year and a half or so and they've been great. I believe I have around 20k miles or so on them at this point. First half of that I was living in New Mexico and off roading every week or two and they performed great whether it was higher speed bumpy/washboard/rocky trails or slower more technical maneuvering (much better than stock). I wasn't doing serious business rock crawling though. Now that I'm back in Coastal CA I'm an hour+ from any decent trails, so I'm not getting out nearly as much anymore. I haven't used any of the other major options like Icons, Eibach, Ironman, Kings etc, which of course is the problem with most of the user reviews you read on forums and such: most people like what they've got but also haven't actually had experience with more than 1 or 2 options.

What I have heard about Icons is they do perform great, but a lot of people report needing to rebuilt more frequently than many other options (like in some cases every 20k or even less). A vendor I talked to also echoed this. I'm sure how hard you wheel has a lot to do with it. In general I think that is something to look out for on the more desert racing oriented brands. Like Kings are awesome, but I've also heard 30-40k for rebuilds with them. Dobinsons are supposedly closer to OEM life in terms of rebuilds, but we'll see.

MRAs were definitely overkill for me: I'm not really doing things where the extra cooling capacity of the remote reservoirs is needed. Other than not having the remote reservoir, their IMS line I believe is almost identical to the MRAs in terms of performance (both monotubes of similar size/design), you just use the adjustability. So you can save a significant amount of money going the IMS route if you can live without the adjustability. When I ordered mine Nov 2020 during a black Friday sale, IIRC it was ~$1150 vs ~$2250 for IMS vs MRA (before adding things like UCAs, coil conversion kit, etc). I went with MRAs as a "buy once cry once" option primarily just for the adjustability. I can be pretty picky about handling, so I didn't want to be stuck with something that wasn't valved to my liking. The adjustability also allows to easily adapting to the truck as my build progresses w/ more weight and potentially upping spring rates without having to have the shocks revalved.

Splinter fucked around with this message at 08:39 on May 14, 2022

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
Not going to name any names, but whoever recommended Explore Overland ITT, I hate you.

It was FogHelmut

e: This thread is in line with my experience: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/buyer-beware-explore-overland.765045/, many on GXOR reporting the same thing as well. For me, ordered sliders 12/1, 8-12 week quoted lead time (12 weeks was 2/23). Emailed 13 weeks, no response. Called close to 14 weeks: "Finishing up welding, we ship Thursdays so will ship this week or next week" (I ordered raw, no powder coat so a powder coat related delay isn't possible). Never shipped. Everyone reports the "1-2 more weeks" run-around when contacting. We're now at 24 weeks and I'm still within the 180 day PayPal dispute window (just barely) so maybe I'll get my money back. Many people are outside of that 180 day window though and will likely be hosed. One guy (at least) in that thread is even reporting they ordered an Ironman lift through EO and EO never even placed the order with Ironman (despite them scheduling installs and then claiming Ironman delays). Despite being so behind on orders they were still accepting new orders and running sales with 12 week (for sliders) lead times quoted that they had no intention of meeting (when I contacted them in March they were still quoting 12 weeks). Wild stuff.

Splinter fucked around with this message at 21:31 on May 17, 2022

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
Oh yeah it looks like they're definitely done. Had my finger on the dispute trigger for a few weeks now but that GXOR post this morning is what made me do it today. Had not been following the tacomaworld drama or I would've done it weeks ago. Wanted to give them one last chance before the dispute window was up as there were still some reports of people finally receiving orders from around when I ordered recently.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
Yeah the wife of one of the fab guys supposedly is posting in that thread and said her husband hadn't even finished the Tacoma bumper design and didn't want to even have it released under EO branding. Sounds like they weren't happy either.

The shipping cost was suspect as they were flat fee $100 to ship anywhere in the US (and I'm on the west coast) whereas shops closer to me were quoting over $100 for shipping. And their base sale cost was also cheapest anywhere with their black friday sale. My total for HREW sliders with fill plate and no powder coat was $600 with shipping to California, which I believe was cheaper or at least similarly priced to any other option before shipping. Some other places I had looked maybe were that cheap when I first got my GX, but by the time I had ordered every other vendor on my list had already raised their prices significantly due to steel price increases. IIRC, other places were generally in the $800-1k+ range with shipping by that time.

So yeah, with that pricing, they were extremely popular, especially with very early customers & people that know them (not just you FogHelmut) saying they're good people and that their work was good.

"Where are our order" threads would pop up every few weeks on GXOR, and we were theorizing that the fact they were continuing to take new orders, run sales and quote impossible lead times indicated they had cash flow issues and that they needed the money from the new orders to try to complete the existing orders. Seems like that was correct. For a while the way to get your order seemed to be to dispute the charge, then all of the sudden your order was the next one out, but sounds like the past month or two they were too backed up for that to even get it done.


Slow is Fast posted:

I'm a local and have seen Derrick Snell shilling their poo poo everywhere, but he's been very quiet when tagged on GXOR. I don't like getting involved in anything but if any goons have anything I can do let me know.
Yeah I saw him tagged in multiple GXOR threads of the past few months and he never responded (and he is, or was at the time, a member of the GXOR group). Meanwhile he was supposedly very active on Facebook in the North East Overlanders group or whatever it's called, so it's not like he wasn't seeing the GXOR notifications. Also apparently they were posting about wheeling every weekend throughout most of this. Not saying they should be working 7 days a week even given the situation, but still not the best look to be semi-publicly posting about doing fun poo poo regularly while you have many unhappy customers that you can't even bother to provide an update to.

On my end I don't think there's much to do but wait to see what happens with the PayPal dispute. It sounds like they're not ever responding to them anymore so I should "win", but as has been mentioned it's not like they have the money anymore. I think PayPal might still refund due to their Purchase Protection regardless, but I'm not 100% sure how that works. That's my hope at least. If that's the case I'm sure they'll be dealing with at least 6 figures of dispute payouts, which might be enough to get their lawyers involved to try to recoup what they can rather than just writing it all off. No idea though.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
Ended up getting a full refund from PayPal for the EO sliders. Wonder if PayPal is just eating these costs for people that got their disputes in before the 180 days, or if they're actually getting this money back from EO.

At this point I think I might just put this towards larger AT tires and revisit sliders next season. I'm still on stock size tires, but 6 months ago I had too much tread depth left to justify replacing the Defender LTX M/S that my GX came with.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
Safety wise, one thing would be if the stuck vehicle's recovery point fails, you're probably more protected if you're pulling forwards rather than in reverse, as in reverse all that's potentially in between you and the shackle or whatever broke off their vehicle is the front windshield. If you're pulling forward, the projectiles are going to have to go through more material before they get to you (though you're still be no means safe in that situation). If you put the hood up maybe it's more of a wash. Obviously though if you think there's any chance of something failing in that manner you shouldn't be attempting the recovery in the first place.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
Anyone know of something similar to https://www.911motorsports.net/2-Ton-Big-Wheel-Conversion--Pittsburgh-Floor-Jack_p_80.html that doesn't cost as much as the jack itself just for 4 wheels and 2 axles?

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

blindjoe posted:

I looked at a bunch of pictures of $10k Pathfinders and have veto'ed them as the interiors are too depressing. Same with the Xterra.
GX470 would be good but again $$$.

470s have seemingly been coming down in price recently. Just saw an '03 with 227k on 33s that looks to be in good shape posted in Portland, OR for $13k, which would be in your budget (unless you were talking $15k Canadian).

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!
I can double check, but FWIW I'm pretty sure my front DuroBumps have similar looking clearance on my GX. They're meant to engage earlier than stock but compress down for a smoother feeling than just slamming into rock hard rubber.

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Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

FogHelmut posted:

I'm not in the market for tires, but I'm reading in various places that some people love Michelin Defender LTX for off road in everything but mud? I thought they were a CUV highway tire? My wife's Ford Edge came with them standard, and they've been great in all weather road use, but never took that off road. I don't think there's any AT that does well in mud, but I think my biggest concern would be durability on rocks taking chunks out and stuff like that.

My GX470 came with a basically new set of Defender LTX M/S , and they've been pretty great with most things I've thrown at them, whether it be snow, long highway trips (quiet and wear well) and some moderate offroading (in terms of traction on mostly dry rocky/dirt trails, no mud). However, I did have a handful of small, patchable leaks (not full on flats) when I was offroading more often that in my mind wouldn't have happened with a burlier all terrain tire. I've finally, a few years later, worn them down enough to justify getting a new set, and I'm likely going to switch to an AT that is decent on the highway.

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