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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
OP is triggering me not listing the E89 as a valid chassis code. :sassargh:

X-Posting from the stupid questions thread because I realized this is probably the more correct place for it:

2009 BMW Z4 (E89) sdrive30. Sucked in a lot of dust at the track, want to replace air filters.

Cabin air filter is part 64 31 9 195 194. Is there any reason not to just get the also-fit brands for around half as much as the OEM/superior-german-adhesives filter? Planning on getting the charcoal ones regardless.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/4803/BMW_4803_VENTAC_pg1.htm
http://smile.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-CUK-2339-Filter-Activated/dp/B001DRHMN2/

And funny story, the engine air filter shows two very different shapes as "valid" for my car, same question, but I will pop out my filter to know which shape I should buy.

http://smile.amazon.com/MAHLE-Original-LX-1250-Filter/dp/B0080E52L0
http://smile.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-W0133-1846450-MAN-Mann-Filter-Air/dp/B005BFL1L6/r
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/4803/BMW_4803_BASFLT_pg1.htm

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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

CornHolio posted:

OP is seven and a half years old :lol:

miklm posted:

miklm hosed around with this message at Sep 13, 2011 around 08:13

I just work here, I didn't actually care.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I just bought air filters, but will be taking it to the mechanic for oil, brakes, fluid, rotors. It will cost handily 2x what my civic would cost for the same work including the filters.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I've been considering how much time I could shave off at streets of willow if I had paddles. I suck at heel-toe and high speed downshifting in general. I'm sure more practice would make me better at it, but paddles would eliminate it altogether.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Any suggestions on a battery tender? (Other than hurrr drive your car.) I know there are probably a zillion cheap chinese burn-your-house-down tenders. E89 2009 Z4.

The car isn't getting as much use as it should, and that is going to drop even further when our baby arrives. Any other preventative measures I should take?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

NitroSpazzz posted:

I have several Battery Tender Juniors (http://amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S) and they've kept everything topped off without burning down the house. A little stabil in the tank might be worth it but I've never used it and everything fires up fine in the spring after sitting for several months. If it's going to be parked for a while pump the tires up a bit higher than normal (~40 psi) to reduce flat spotting. Toss a car cover on it if you'd like and maybe some dryer sheets (change monthly) to deter rodents.

BraveUlysses posted:

Costco sells one by that brand, I have one and it's been good for the few months I've been using it. Lifetime returns on almost everything sold at Costco.

Thanks! I note it says "Junior" for "ATVs and Motorcycles" - does that actually matter? Or is that just a flat-charge speed thing? The battery is currently healthy and well charged so I assume that doesn't matter. 80Ah, 640 CCA according to the label.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Thanks, bought it. I don't think I will put in stabilizer, might put dryer sheets in. It's in a garage, should I still cover it?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Alarbus posted:

Depends if your garage is dusty/leaky/etc.

Also, I would suggest http://smile.amazon.com/Victor-Humane-Live-Mouse-M310S/dp/B00004RAMU/ It says humane, but you can totally just put a few crackers in there, and if a mouse gets in, it'll be bait for the next mouse, and so forth. I usually scrape them out once or twice a year. Mouse damage is no joke - $1200 of damage to fuel lines and wires on my '06.

Also, since it's not poison, you don't have to worry about pets eating poisoned mice!

Good call. A buddy of mine just did a comprehensive claim against a several thousand dollar harness job on his FJ due to critters. We don't poison to try and not poison the local raptor population. The neighbors cats I am less concerned about. :v:

There is one spot where we've certainly seen a critter could get into the garage, and one recently chewed a random single wire out of our furnace which caused it to flip on the air intake but never actually sense pressure to start gas and spark.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Powershift posted:

you say that like everybody's gauge cluster is still readable :(

In nearly every car I've driven I can't read my guages above ~25mph or below ~85mph plus the equivalent on the tachometer. This includes like indicator indicators, high beam indicators, etc. The fun times of being tall. If the idiot light doesn't have an accompanying ding or center info box warning it must not matter.

Cojawfee posted:

I don't think the radio is covered under CPO. The radio in my e82 gets sluggish in cold weather and doesn't display all the pixels in hot weather. It goes back to normal in mild weather.

That's just what LCDs do in inclement weather. My E89 does this as well.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Battery tender arrives soon. Where do I hook it up? I would prefer to do it under the hood so I can more easily snake the cable out. The red jump terminal + Ground? (Just off camera to the lower-right is where a bunch of other stuff is apparently grounded.)



The other option is the trunk:


This is my first foray into car maintenance in over a decade. Did both my air filters, and found 2 things I didn't know the car had: A second 12v outlet and a passenger knee airbag. I knew it had a driver one. This is looking up at the bottom panel for the cabin air filter in the passenger footwell. Behind there also appears to be some kind of main electrical thing where a Big Fat Red Wire comes in from the back and breaks into a few smaller cables. There is also a fuse map clipped into the rear of the plastic panel.



What's the filter looking material left behind and should I have been replacing it or...?



I even think I got it back together correctly. The video on the internet had you taking the whole thing out as one piece and then unclipping the airbox apart on a bench. Reinstalling it I sort of see why. :argh:



rscott posted:

I lose about the 55-70mph range on my speedo in the e28 unless I slouch, I feel your pain.

I figure mine has 3 settings: School Zone, Driving Zone, and Ticket Zone.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Brock Landers posted:

I hooked my battery tender directly to the terminals in the trunk. The one I had used a quick disconnect with a short pigtail that attached to the terminals. Open trunk, plug in, close trunk.

Silly question: No worry about gas? I know it's an AGM which "shouldn't off gas." Do you just hook both directly to the battery? Or is there some better place for the ground clamp?

Is the trunk completely closed? It doesn't pinch the wires?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

NitroSpazzz posted:

The trunk rubber seal strip is enough that it doesn't get pinched. Never heard of issues with off gassing with a AGM so you should be fine. I've always tossed the leads directly on the battery but I occasionally move batteries between cars or need to haul one as a spare.

Thanks, my battery is now tended.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

MrChips posted:

Rear seats are for namby-pambies who concern themselves with things like "responsibilities" and "obligations". Roadsters are for cool and awesome people who don't give a gently caress and have bourbon with their breakfast cereal.

Commit or go home.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Guinness posted:

Welp, just about a year later and still no resolution to this yet. What a clusterfuck.



What happens if you call them and have a panic attack about your fictional spouse or new driver teenage child dying in a car crash by the very thing meant to save their life? What are they doing if your airbag light comes on these days? Seems like crazy town. Honda was able to do both sides almost immediately for us due to my wife's concern over both of them being faulty even though only the driver side was recalled.

Got my car back from the shop yesterday. New Zimmerman rotors, Hawk pads, ECS braided steel lines, and high temp fluid. This is my first foray beyond OEM parts, hopefully it helps me not cook my brakes. I am excited to try them out in a few months. The car was so dirty from recent ultra polleny/smoggy rain I even washed it myself for the first time in 6 years of ownership. What idiot buys a black car?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Guinness posted:

This idiot

:hfive: idiot buddy

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

TWSS posted:

The GDCS service

Is this the god damned cooling system? If so, what is the time interval where it should be replaced? My 2009 Z4 sDrive 30i (so, 3.0L I6) is never going to reach the miles requirement. It's at 35,xxx right now and I only put on 2,000 last year.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

BraveUlysses posted:

Not you're ok

:what:

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

ultrabay2000 posted:

You're probably fine. I would replace the everything at the 100k mile mark, although I don't really know about that car specifically. If you start loosing coolant or notice any issues with the cooling system you probably want to full stop and make sure everything checks out - things that seem suspect probably ought be replaced as a preventive measure. It seems to be my experience that any minor failures are a pretty short countdown to a catastrophic failure and if you're at all able you generally want to get any cooling system issues fixed as soon as possible, although this is probably true of most modern cars and not just BMWs.

e: Pay double attention to hoses and plastic fatigue particularly at the expansion tank. Radiators tend to fail around hose neck area; expansion tanks explode; water pumps leak.

Thanks. I'm mainly concerned because it could be a decade before this car hits 100k miles and that's not how plastic and rubber fatigues. I know that once the initial "issue" happens I should have the whole system overhauled. I'll keep an eye on those bits.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

ultrabay2000 posted:

Also note, if you have a temperature needle and it moves at all past the spot it stays at normally stays at once it's warmed up it's a bad sign.

Just an idiot light and oil temp gauge. I believe it's exported via the OBD2 port but I would have to double check. I have one of those bluetooth adapter things and Torque on my phone.

Jonny 290 posted:

Do people not obsessively run KTMP monitoring on their unlocked OBC?

Go on... Also I don't have iDrive so if it's dependent on that then gently caress it.

GentlemanofLeisure posted:

Yeah just keep an eye on it. Squeeze the rubber hoses a bit and see if they're still pliable, if they're turning tough and brittle time to replace. Check for hairline cracks in the plastic bits. Check your bleeder screw. Should be fine based on mileage, but at 10 years you may want to look at replacing the plastic bits.

Thanks. I figured that was it.


Alarbus posted:

That's an N52 engine car, and it's been through a few revisions by 09. It's certainly less of an issue than the M54 engines, but you should think about it around the 10 year / 100k mark. I drove my first E90 to 105k with no engine issues, and my current one is at 96k, and I've tuned both to the 255ish hp range with a tune and manifold swap.

Good times. I am not a "car guy" by any stretch. The car went off stock as of a week ago when I* changed out the warranty-installed brake pads & rotors for aftermarket pads/rotors/braided lines I'm sure car guys would hate.

* Where I earned the money that paid my mechanic to do all of it.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Alarbus posted:

I should also point out that in regards to GDCS on the N52, I did a coolant flush as soon as I bought it (lifetime my rear end), and then change it on a two year cycle.

Pretty sure mine is still lifetime. *ahem*

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Looks like the airbag recall is about to more than double in size: http://www.nytimes.com/2016/05/04/business/takata-airbag-recall.html?_r=0

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I have a 2009 E89 Z4 sdrive30, no idrive. I had the brakes & rotors done but my mechanic forgot to reset the service light in the car. I waved him off thinking I knew how to do it, having done it before for other things like the roadworthiness test or what have you. The car gets to "reset", then does the little clock thing when I press and hold the button, but it doesn't reset. Did I do something wrong? Did my mechanic?

Terrible video of me doing this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=924nM1qrYOQ

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
What do you guys use to interface with your reasonably modern BMW? I have a 2009 E89 Z4 w/ the 3.0 engine, no idrive.

I bought an elcom bluetooth OBDII connector which Torque can see read stats out reasonably quickly. I'm looking to program some of the various features in the car and saw that Carly ( http://www.mycarly.com/product/bmw-app/ ) appears to do most of it, but there seem to be a lot of upsells on an already $50 app. On top of that, using the Lite version it is saying it can't talk to some of the sub systems using my current one, and I should spend $62 on theirs ( https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0187HPAOS/ ).

Is there a better way forwards?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Ether Frenzy posted:

I would recommend Carly but I don't think there's any way to code your car into an M3, so I would advise you buy an M3 and THEN get Carly.

M3 is too impractical, might get tricked into putting the car seat into it. M Clown Shoe on the other hand...

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Ether Frenzy posted:

Yeah, Carly is actually pretty solid, it's got some weirdness in the UI but if you want to diagnose/code stuff for BMW's, it seems to be the best bet short of paying a shop 6x as much more to do it. There's a few things it cannot do, but I think a 2009 should be pretty open to most of the available tricks you might want to do (my first move with it was turning off the 'do not use this while driving' message on the entertainment/nav system on startup, that locks you out of being able to mute the audio until the message goes away) and that alone made it worth the $60 entry fee, or whatever it was for the plug in dongle + the app combo.)

They give you some sort of $10 or 5 euros off or something if you buy them together.

Cojawfee posted:

Carly is pretty nice. The upsells aren't them trying to squeeze more money out of you, they are features that no everyone wants, but some people did. They created those features and charged the people who want them to save money for the people who don't need to reset their battery, or do the DPF, or NOX. My issue is that the parameters have never worked for me (N55 135), but the torque app pulls all the info out just fine.

Thanks, I mainly wanted to make sure there wasn't something lurking in the $120-150 range I hadn't run across given the app + adapter is $120, and the first battery I swap with it will push it even higher.

Are the IAP's per-VIN or one time purchase for unlimited use? I assume the former.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

gvibes posted:

I have two car seats in my M3. I have been bamboozled.

Sucker. This weekend is actually going to be the first overnight without the kid since he was born. Driving a few hours up the coast top down to drink wine. :feelsgood:

The kid gets to throw up in a Mid Trim Honda Civic because gently caress that noise.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

BlackMK4 posted:

The reliability change is going to be a culture shock coming from the IS.

e: I should say I own an IS300 Sportcross now and have owned a bunch of BMWs in the past :v:


Cojawfee posted:

What do you want out of a car? Do you want a luxury car that you don't have to be super worried about maintaining? Stick with Lexus. Do you want a fun, sporty sedan and you're willing to stay on top of maintenance and even possibly willing to eat the cost of expensive, preventative repairs? Then think about a BMW. Don't buy a BMW because it's fancy, buy a BMW because you actually want a BMW. It's not for the faint of heart if you plan on treating it like a Toyota.

We don't just say this to be elitist assholes about BMW's, we also say it so we can smugly "I told you so" when you run into "shockingly high repair bills" 3 months into ownership. :suicide:

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I should really have many months ago buy a cover for my E89 Z4. Is there something I should overthink on this or just buy something off Amazon that fits? I don't need the plate to show through, it's on a private driveway. It's 167" long if wikipedia is to be believed.

Rain and Sun are the enemy here, 0 chance of snow. Oh and Santa Ana winds. Lots of crud in the air from living in Los Angeles.

H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Jan 19, 2019

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Popete posted:

2 doors is the correct number of doors for a car. Why would you ever have more than 2 people in a car? Seems like if that is happening frequently you made some poor life choices.

All these rookies buying cars with back seats.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

God, if I could have the rear seats of my car removed and replaced with more trunk space, I'd be a happy camper.




idgi

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Residency Evil posted:

Ugh. Anyone have thoughts on this one? I'm thinking about bad decisions. My dog would probably prefer an m3 over a Mercedes wagon or GTI right?

https://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/vehicles/model/class-E/model-E63S4S I mean if you're going to get a Mercedes Wagon at least get the right one. BMW are cowards for not doing a true M wagon in the USA.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Residency Evil posted:

Once I actually have kids and need to carry poo poo, definitely.

What have kids got to do with it? :getin:

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Cobalt60 posted:

play music and podcasts and the sound from the maps


EDIT: No nav or dash storage bay, which I like, but I'd still like to pipe Spotify through the speakers if I can

You might see if Carly can add it. https://shop.mycarly.com/en/adapter/retrofit/carly-bluetooth-multimedia-aux-interface-for-1-series-bmw/a-9003/

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

Cup holders? You mean my Driving Glove Storage Tubs?



There is literally something called a glove box to store those in, along with your cupholder and beanie. That way when it's cold out you can still put the top down.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

BraveUlysses posted:

wow pulling the gauge cluster to remove the bulb is way more work than fixing the relay :laffo:

I mean if you're already in there removing the cel and airbag lights plus rolling back the odometer :shrug:

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Deadguy2322 posted:

Hey guys! I have a 2008 X3 3.0i, just got a new battery, and the ABS, airbag and 4x4 lights are coming on like they did before I got the battery replaced and had the codes cleared. Any ideas what could be wrong? I am guessing I should check the alternator, but I am onpen to ideas I am unaware of.

Did you code the battery?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

fknlo posted:



That gray actually does some work there.

I kind of like it. There I said it.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006


Superior German adhesives indeed. Came out one day and it was just on the ground in front of the car, which was parked right up against the garage door. Is that just 3m foam tape of some sort?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls?nhtsaId=22V119

:lol: The previous PCV recall parts are also defective and catch on fire.

pre:
Subject :	PCV Heater May Short Circuit
Make	Model	Years
BMW	128I	2008-2013
BMW	3 SERIES	2006-2012
BMW	5 SERIES	2006-2010
BMW	X3 SAV	2007-2010
BMW	X5 SAV	2007-2010
BMW	Z4	2006-2011

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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

kronix posted:

I'm assuming this only affects E90s which makes sense because those cars were totally awful (with the exception of the M3)

:mad: And E89's!

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