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Hypnolobster posted:Even slightly oversized holes in the metal base is probably enough to give some room for seasonal movement. 1/4" bolt in a 3/8" hole is enough, unless the top is very wide. Also yes, threaded inserts are the way to go. Buy good ones, and buy ones meant for hardwood. the brass Home Depot versions of these are the bane of my existence, drill them out to their nominal diameter and the slotted head rips itself apart on install. Drill them out a little wider, and they unscrew themselves. I need some show pieces for this summer so I've been cleaning out my woodshop by way of turning the trash into coffee tables. We ripped these maple boards out of an old warehouse years back thinking we were gonna refloor our kitchen with 'em, before we realized how insanely nasty they were.  Still clean up nice if you trim all the tongue and groove parts off though. Couple with a big plank of quartersawn sycamore a cabinetmaker out here was throwing away cause it was too thin and warped for whatever he was doing, good enough for me    you almost don't notice all the nail holes now. Torn between making some plugs to cover those up or just calling it "authentic reclaimed barnwood" and marking it up 20% A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 22:03
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yeah it doesn't really look like anything flatsawn, but if you get a quarter or rift sawn cut right across the diameter of the trunk it's got a great pattern, I see it sold pretty often as 'lacewood'. I've got a bunch of it from felled trees out here I've been slowly turning into lumber (nothing like that big plank tho that guy was nuts for giving it away), where those little squares in the middle of the legs came from and a lot of other odds and ends. Maybe half of it comes out looking like that, the rest goes to jigs and etc.
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 22:29
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A 50S RAYGUN posted:so that bandsaw i found seems pretty unsalvageable - what brands do people use or recommend for like, stationary woodworking? what specifically are you planning to do with it? like GEMorris said the Delta/Rockwell 14s are very solid and there's usually at least one on Craigslist cheap because they last forever. If you're planning on doing larger stock or cutting veneers or anything worth holding out for one with the riser block kit already installed, as otherwise it costs as much as the saws do now. this is an exceptionally bad time to be bargain-hunting on shop equipment, though, my bar for "unsalveagable" on gear already in hand would be dramatically lower these days than it woulda been last March. Did a truck hit it and then catch fire? How hot was the fire? A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 23:46
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I really like the design of those legs. How big is that sycamore board? Looks huge and to be QS....that was a big tree. How do you like working with it? I've always read bad things about it as far as workability/movement/etc but I don't think I've ever actually used any myself. Kind of like sweet gum, which is another occasionally really pretty wood that never gets used for workability reasons. Once I got done cutting all the hopelessly warped parts off I had a 18"x41" panel left, it's thin (and clearly prone to deforming) so I'm definitely gonna back it up with some maple ribs on the underside. Huge tree, but this guy had access to all kinds of wild poo poo - his scrap bin was full of bits of a 300-year-old oak from Mount Vernon that he'd been turning into some general's desk. Sycamore's pretty soft compared to walnut and oak and the like, you're not gonna scratch it with a fingernail or anything but it chisels like butter. I kinda work with the assumption it's gonna move, as much because I'm often using wood that's still kinda green as anything else, but it supposedly was used as a utility wood like poplar back in the days when America had old-growth forests so there's gotta be ways to make it work. Biggest problem I've had is the figured surfaces tear out fairly easily, at least using poo poo-butt makerspace tools. Here's a bit I didn't bother clean up: 
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Jun 4, 2021 15:27
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Stultus Maximus posted:Speaking of, I finally got out to my local sawmill/lumberyard. They're only open 9-11 AM on the 1st and 3rd Saturday of the month which doesn't make it easy. It's a pretty cool place, the guy running it is a really nice long haired bearded dude, and all their stuff is locally felled trees so the selection can get interesting - lots of oak and sycamore plus things like hackberry, buckeye, Chinese chestnut, and mulberry that you don't see at your typical lumberyard. And due to the prevalence of oak trees in the region, oak prices range from $1.50/bf for plain sawn no 1 common to $5.50/bf for quartersawn select which is better than anywhere else I've seen. lmao my local lumberyard just quoted me $10/lbf for quartersawn. I don't even like oak but the house is kinda made of it. I miss my old dude who was some kind of lumber hoarder and would let me pick out 12/4 ziricote boards half my weight out from under his pile of naily 2x4s and warped poplar, totally worth almost dying in a veneer avalanche On the big board, unfortunately the only really good option for resawing is a bigger bandsaw. Fortunately you know a sawmill who will have the Biggest Bandsaw. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Jun 5, 2021 |
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Jun 5, 2021 21:40
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signalnoise posted:I'm trying to get the confidence up to actually do the things I said I'd do with woodworking. I tried to use some wood from Ikea furniture I'll never use again just as sacrificial panels or maybe some guides or something like that, and it split just from clamping and sawing by hand. I find this sort of interesting. I didn't expect it to be good in the first place, but I'm wondering now if this is something I should also consider for wood that isn't known to be complete poo poo? I didn't use a vise, I used two clamps, with one each at the front end and rear end of the panel here. Some tearout might happen with dull tools and certain otherwise decent woods but nothing like that unless you're working crazy thin, no. That super long crack looks like the wood was probably just ready to go at any instant, which happens a lot more on cheap softwoods. Using IKEA materials is maximum hardmode, barely a step up from trying to make furniture from your own turds, and even ikea doesn't frequently succeed despite having entire factories of very expensive dedicated crap-processing equipment. I've had better luck salvaging stuff out of busted antiques on Craigslist and in junk piles, but it takes some practice to develop an eye for what's what especially when it's all hosed up. White/yellow pine like that is pretty easy to ID, and it shouldn't take too long to figure out when something is veneered and probably crap underneath
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Jun 5, 2021 22:16
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yeah that shoji lantern owns hard, think I know what I'm doing with my cutoff scraps now Working on latches today so the legs can detach. If these work they'll be super simple to crank out in quantity, if they don't the tabletop will just pop off the base if you try to lift it. We'll see!  
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Jun 6, 2021 |
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Jun 6, 2021 18:47
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Yeah if you sand the oil off you're going to get some polymerized oil in the sawdust. You're probably doing it too much. The sanding is just to rough up the surface a little to give the next coat something to adhere to, and is generally recommended for any kind of finish that won't dissolve the underlying layer; I have no idea what the wet sanding is meant to accomplish aside from getting a load of crap in your finish. Someone's homebrew trick for filling in pores?
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Jun 7, 2021 |
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Jun 7, 2021 06:45
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Serenade posted:One can take all of these ideas to create and test a procedure, but I find it strange that there's a high degree of loving around and finding out rather than a proven source of information. Welcome to woodworking, basically. We've been at this poo poo for thousands of years and it's still mostly a bunch of wildly conflicting Grandpa's Secret Family Recipes. Purpleheart's one of the worst at this but a lot of interesting colored woods have the same kinda thing to a lesser extent, they get very rich color with UV exposure and then quickly turn gray/brown. Basically everything you can put on them to protect the color also gradually turns yellow with UV exposure, albeit at a rate of years rather than months. If you want that brilliant color give em a suntan until you've reached the effect you want (amounts required vary, I've got some cherry intarsia all from the same lumber where half of it has turned deep dark red and half is beige right now) then finish them and stick them in a windowless room or sell them off ASAP. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Jun 9, 2021 |
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Jun 9, 2021 16:30
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NomNomNom posted:Finished my kumiko lamps yesterday. yeah I really miss the days when Etsy was the place to buy hosed-up looking dolls some lady felted out of cat hair and not just a worse AliExpress first coat of finish in and the sycamore's popping more than I expected: 
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Jun 15, 2021 |
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Jun 14, 2021 20:14
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Mr. Mambold posted:Yowza. How many boards width there, 2 total? Old school. it's just one huge 18" wide plank, soon as I got it I knew I had to do something like this with it
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Jun 15, 2021 15:14
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extravadanza posted:Hey woodworking thread. I'm still pretty new at this and I'm trying to cut out a 4ft long 1/2 inch wide strip in some wood paneling to put an LED channel in. Would I be better served trying to do this with a router + edge guide or just going at it with a jig saw + drill bit as a starter hole. The paneling is about 1/2 inch thick and the slot will go all the way through the wood. oh god gently caress doing that with a router, jigsaw all the way
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Jun 15, 2021 16:04
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for that price you could get the fanciest gauge Incra sells, with a telescoping fence, and have cash to spare. Rockler's stuff in general is perfectly fine, just kinda... stupid expensive for what you get? I feel like their target market is retired dentists who are too old to understand Google and treat their wood shop like their buddies treat their '74 Lamborghini
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Jun 16, 2021 |
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Jun 16, 2021 20:04
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lament.cfg posted:Incra sells at least a $300 miter gauge if not more lol fair enough I forgot about the 3/5000 you can still get a significantly fancier Incra gauge for less, though A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Jun 16, 2021 |
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Jun 16, 2021 22:07
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ughhhh posted:Its janky and rough, but i managed to make myself a small workbench that fits perfectly in a closet in my apartment! Bench dogs don't seem like they're gonna add much to anything that tall and narrow, any lateral movement and the whole thing's tipping over anyway. I'd worry less about the top for now and get some folding braces or something on the legs to widen the base when it's not stowed in your closet (something like this but upside-down, maybe).
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Jun 17, 2021 22:07
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Goosey Lee posted:This feels like the right thread for this: It's definitely not walnut, looks like stained white oak to me As an individual schmo with a few nonspecialist shop tools veneer is kinda a hassle imo, and you're not gonna get an underlying material that's a whole lot cheaper than oak anyway. You couldn't ask for a much easier design to finish out than that headboard, only thing is i don't see how the rails attached - was there some mounting plate that got removed at those holes? Threaded inside?
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Jun 20, 2021 00:25
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so bolted from the outside. Would be easy enough to stick some double-ended bolts on the side rails, though personally I'd probably fill the holes with some dowels and install these instead
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Jun 20, 2021 00:59
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Really the table is probably too narrow to have bases like this, but nobody realized it until I made the bases, lol. I made the base of the bases half the width of the table top (18" on a 36" top) because that's an okay rule of thumb ime, buuuuut that doesn't really leave much knee room there-only 9". 10" is really the minimum and and like 14" is better. I was kicking myself for not making a model, but I'm not really sure I would have caught it even if I had. I can shave an inch off the bases and we can make the top a few inches wider and I think it'll be okay but it was a major p sure the first rule of amateur woodworking is you make the thing first and figure out what it's good for later c.f. the single-serving jellybean humidor 
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Jun 22, 2021 00:21
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followed by panic moment for me.
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You're not getting an even vaguely acceptable table saw in the same price and space ballpark as the others. Miter saws are extremely specific in what they do and by no means a 'one tool'. Of your options a circular saw is the closest to making sense but really for what you're doing a scroll or jigsaw will afford you a lot more flexibility
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Jun 26, 2021 |
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Jun 26, 2021 19:11
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Is there something in there you're really desperate to salvage? Judging from the pictures there's barely any wood left there anyway and if you sunk hours into trimming away all the garbage to get at the remaining 'good' toothpicks they'd still just be lovely pine if those are the worst bits of a humongous pile of otherwise pristine-looking lumber maybe it might merit this level of deliberation
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Jul 6, 2021 18:57
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that's probably the only way to get a contiguous foot of structurally sound material there yeah
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Jul 8, 2021 00:01
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Arsenic Lupin posted:I suspect the answer is for about the same reason IKEA doesn't make federal-style inlaid rosewood cabinetry? the turn-of-the-century stuff was made that way because it was possible to turn a profit mass producing those kinds of things when skilled machinists cost nothing, people were on a holy crusade to strip the Americas of every natural resource as fast as possible, there was still a large class of folks who could afford to routinely buy the still-fairly-expensive end product, and manufacturers didn't have to compete with ~70 years of high-end old production that was built to last for centuries. A small shop with a real passion for the subject might just about manage to keep its head above water for a while selling that stuff to the straight-razor market but it's not like glorious socialism is gonna bring back the precise economic conditions of early industrialization either (one would hope)
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Jul 15, 2021 17:39
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, but why hasn't Stanley figured out that they could make accurate replicas of their old, good planes and make money?
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with the exception of Dewalts every contractor table saw I've handled had a pretty heinous fence, too, if you can't count on that being square that's like 2/3 of the utility of a table saw gone I use my table saw for fuckin everything but u gotta go big or go home A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Jul 15, 2021 |
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Jul 15, 2021 20:41
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I think Home Desperate is like a dog, it just sort of does things arbitrarily.
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Jul 15, 2021 21:16
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it's not uncommon for people to call jointers planers for whatever fuckin reason but you can also look at the picture and see that that clearly cannot be used as a thickness planer come to think are there any combination jointer/planers under like a ton that aren't useless at the latter part, even if they made any effort at it beyond the name? A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Jul 16, 2021 |
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Jul 16, 2021 15:13
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isn't the shelix $400 new? two years ago I'd have said you paid about twice as much as you shoulda but it's not two years agoMr. Mambold posted:I think if nothing's hinky, and you need a good jointer it's an okay deal, nothing to do a major fistpump over. Powermatic have been cruising on brand name for a few decades now for added $5-800 on that alone. Just my imho jimho. Tiny fistpump would be appropriate. so by this math a base used Powermatic 60 is worth $0? Harsh A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Jul 16, 2021 |
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Jul 16, 2021 16:27
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i've got a lathe but I don't know what to fuckin do with it does that count like I guess one of these days I'll set up an indexer on it so I can cut gears, but there's only so many pens and peppermills one man needs
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Jul 16, 2021 22:00
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Sono posted:Are those cool to take? I always figured that the power company had a sideline to sell them for mulching or something. how much do you think mulch is worth? Deadfall logs are garbage and anything anyone but an actual lumbermill can do with them only partially offsets the cost of removing them; if you're habitually dragging them off peoples' lawns and poo poo without asking you might occasionally run into some psycho mad you're stealing their garbage but most of the time if I let the work crew know I wanna take them off their hands for free they'll set them aside and leave them in 6' lengths for resawing. cheese eats mouse posted:Picked up some Italian mid-century rush chairs and the rush is in great shape for its age, but I think could use some TLC with a nice clean since I can smell old cigarettes on my skin after prolonged contact. I know smoke is the worst and it's not noticeable. seconding syringes, they're a lifesaver for any kind of restoration project. If it's really tight space or you're trying to relaminate veneer or something, superglue can work in medical syringes too A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Jul 19, 2021 |
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Jul 19, 2021 18:30
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I'd love to get in on the downed trees for wood as well. How do you get a 6' length of log into your truck/trailer? Or are you bucking that log into manageable chunks on someone else's lawn? Engine hoist ideally, by hand significantly less-ideally. Often farmers and the like are happy enough to get rid of the stuff that they'll let me use their bobcat or whatever, which just leaves the problem of unloading it and abruptly realizing I've bitten off more than I can chew. I can't really move logs bigger than about 8" in diameter on my own but that's a lot of stuff, and I've been working on a sawmill that loads onto a trailer so maybe someday I can bring the saw to the trees. Serenade posted:Is resawing exclusively the domain of bandsaws and tablesaws? no but they're the most efficient way to do it by a good margin. If you're feeling old-fashioned you could rig up a terrifying reciprocating sawmill the way our ancestors did A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jul 19, 2021 |
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Jul 19, 2021 20:06
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Jhet posted:Look to see if any arborists are on ChipDrop in your area. They'll deliver the logs directly to your driveway. They also do mulch. You don't get to pick and choose, but it gives you a good way to meet your arborists trying to get rid of the stuff (free for them almost), and can probably get a decent line on larger things that they'd love you to have so they don't have to pay someone else to mulch it for profit. What kinda stuff have you gotten from them? I'm pretty hesitant cause just judging by what I find on roadsides and Craigslist signing up for a random sampler of poo poo arborists are throwing away would get you four tons of termite nest and gnarly cedar stump for every straight-ish log of 20-year walnut tracecomplete posted:That reciprocating sawmill made me reflexively grit my teeth. Holy poo poo. frankly surprising anyone survived early industrialization A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Jul 19, 2021 |
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Jul 19, 2021 22:23
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Just Winging It posted:If you're in Europe, definitely look into beech. As said it has good workability, and is eminently suited to build workbenches from. It's also one of the cheapest hardwoods widely available commercially, which is a definite pro as well. Don't rule out softwoods like spruce though, they're not as dense or hard as the likes of beech, but still make for a perfectly serviceable workbench. I built mine out of spruce and some douglas fir, and it's just fine. (The supply situation is kinda turbo-hosed right now, so this is more of a general advice for when price/availability isn't a problem anymore.) yeah a softwood frame with a hickory or maple top so you can beat the living poo poo out of it works great
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Jul 23, 2021 18:00
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oak is a pretty straightforward, hard-ish utility wood, if you're finding it 'incredibly hard' to cut you're likely to have a bad time with basically anything tougher than poplar. Try out something towards the bottom of the janka hardness scale until you've got the hang of making efficient cuts and/or figured out why your plane is a butter knife (these are not great materials to go around hitting things with, for the same reason they're good ones to learn on, but you can always make another stick) A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Jul 23, 2021 |
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Jul 23, 2021 18:10
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Oak is open-pored and rough like that, there's lots of harder things (like maple, or all the super-fancy exotic woods they make veneers out of) that do big smooth ribbons too if this is for a game controller I'd hunt around for some rainbow poplar which aside from being cheap and easy to work with looks incredibly rad in ways you'll never get oak to be. Lots of big box stores toss it in with the regular boards
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Jul 23, 2021 20:26
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bobua posted:Weird question, but does anyone else just up and forget to use a tool? Maybe age or becoming a dad(no sleep). i don't generally forget it's an option but I will without fail spend an hour improvising some bullshit workaround using whatever tools are within arm's reach rather than take five minutes to go upstairs and retrieve the proper tool for the job
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Jul 25, 2021 23:47
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it's like a thousand times easier to debark after milling, when it just pulls right off you can definitely expect significant cupping flatsawing something that wide, ime the stuff at the bottom of the stack will end up much flatter just cause the stuff at the top is kinda clamping it down as it dehydrates. The thicker the better. I don't generally spend all year air-drying stuff tho, if I can't kiln it I cut it into smaller lumber and start using it after like 3 months of drying cause I'm just not that patient and I design under the assumption the wood's gonna try to flex at some point anyway aniviron posted:I've been refinishing an old dresser and I've got it all ready to stain but haven't ever used wood stain before - is there a good general practice for doing this? The internet gives conflicting info. Is there a type of stain that is generally preferable for indoor use? If I go for an oil based stain, do I still need to seal it if it's not meant for rough use? What's the best application method? there's like a trillion different finish products out there, the instructions for whatever specific one are on the can. If it stains and seals, it'll indicate somewhere on it, if it doesn't don't expect any kind of meaningful protection; but stain-sealers generally kind of look like rear end (especially on any kind of nice wood) and are meant for someone trying to bang out a deck in a weekend with minimal effort. If you still have any old finish on the dresser and you don't want it to look like a deck you're going to have to get a few different stains in the right color ballpark and dab around somewhere inconspicuous to color match, even when you can figure out what they originally put on it there's no guarantee a new coat of that stuff is going to look the same A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jul 29, 2021 |
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Jul 29, 2021 19:34
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Right now I don't, I used to have something set up at a co-op space I've quit, but I'll be rebuilding it shortly after I get the sawmill working which currently has like three tubes of JB Weld curing on it, so it might be a while
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Jul 29, 2021 20:46
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Stultus Maximus posted:Oh, those look good and old. oh I assumed you were looking for real old-timey forged screws with the hosed-up off-center heads. If that's all you want can also just burn the zinc off real easy; i do it by accident all the time
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Aug 14, 2021 21:56
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Danhenge posted:I've been trying to track down local saw mills, but it seems like they all just do wholesale SYP or they aren't on the internet. Lumber yard or sawmill? there's no way there's not a yard somewhere on the outskirts of the nearest big town. As an individual hobbyist looking for a mill to process the tree you cut down yeah you're gonna be stuck dealing with 60-year-old farmers who were clearing a field a decade ago and found themselves with a sawmizer's worth of cash burning a hole in their pocket, and have all the business hustle and tech savvy that implies. Try putting some messages out on whatever local Facebook group old rednecks use to swap pictures of Larry the Cable Guy A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Aug 25, 2021 |
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Aug 25, 2021 08:21
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hell yeah brother kinda wishing when I'd started trying to DIY that poo poo I'd put less planning into the saw and kiln parts, and more into the skidsteer parts where you can actually loving move anything without probably hurting yourself
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Sep 1, 2021 18:40
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Sep 4, 2021 03:43
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