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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Just got my first rolls of film processed and my X-570 is showing intermittent light bleed. Is this most likely the seals, or does the intermittent nature point to something deeper?

This is the worst, was tripod mounted:


This is more representitve:


And a lot of the shots are just fine:

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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Got the light seals in my X-570 replaced just in time to head to Japan tomorrow with a bag full of Portra and JCH StreetPan. It's going to be an excellent 2 weeks.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Karl Barks posted:

The voigtlander Bessas are probably worth checking out, and you get to use those sweet m mount lenses.

The CLE uses M mount lenses as well. I know the hi-matics have issues with the accuracy of their light metres but don't know if that's extended to the CLE.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

I really like my MD 28mm f/3.5. It was the budget of their 28 range, but is smaller in size and weight and still takes a mighty fine photo. Should be able to get them for dirt cheap.





I use a Minolta X-570 and love it.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



This is dope.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

The 50 f/1.7 was the standard kit lens, is ubiquitous, cheap and also excellent. Not much faster than your 2 tho.

I've been keeping an eye out for their 16mm fisheye for a price I can justify. No luck yet.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

I went through 4 gates with 5 rolls of 400 and everything was totally fine. Portra and JCH Street Pan.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Just received this back from the lab. This is the only photo that large white patch appears on and I have no idea what could have caused it.



Anyone know what the issue was?

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

TheLastManStanding posted:

Looks like the film touched itself during development. Typically there will be another frame slightly further along the roll to match with, but it could have been at the start or end of the roll. Judging by the size you're shooting on 120? If you ask the lab about it they might give you a free roll. You should also do something about that light leak.

The light leak I didn't know about until this roll, so that will be taken care of post haste. Luckily it's intermittent on the rolls I just got back so a few good shots are untarnished. Thanks, I'll contact the lab.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Primo Itch posted:

I've had "Intermittent" lights leaks once when my camera had a very small light leak, so whenever I didn't advance the film for longer-ish, I'd get a light leak in that frame. Maybe that's your problem?

I think it's just a regular light leak and it shows up more depending on how I'm holding the camera. I'll keep it in mind if it shows up again.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

While on the topic of batteries I got a great deal on a Praktica MTL5 and a handful of lenses for it, but I can't get the battery compartment open. It rotates a little bit, like 10 degrees, but then stops. Does anyone know if it should screw out all the way or if it's a bayonet mount with a really short throw? Anyone run into a similar issue and have a clever solution?

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

SMERSH Mouth posted:

I have no knowledge of prakticas (although I'd be surprised if the battery cover wasn't the standard type and just stuck up with corrosion or cross-threaded), but here's to hoping you are able to make it usable. It'd be interesting to find out how you think it holds up compared to something widely praised for build and image quality, like that Minolta SR system you've been using.

An MTL with a set of CZJ lenses definitely looks cool as hell, but I wonder if the image quality and usability are up to the same grade.


EDIT:

And a random question:

I saw an IG post about that 3D-printable 35mm panoramic camera that's been in development for a while, and it got me wondering. This is a dense as hell and stupid question, but... When you design a film advance lever/spool system, the degree of rotation on the spool has to decrease as its diameter grows with wound film, right? Just something that made me appreciate how challenging that would be to design from scratch.

Even if I can't get into the battery I won't be too worried as the only thing it runs is the light metre, I'll definitely be putting a roll through it. From my understanding the biggest issue that can crop up is if you don't fully mount the lens into the screw mount and get your distance to the focal plane hosed up. In terms of build quality and hand feel it's a beautifuly solid piece of kit.

3D printing a mechanism to advance 35mm accurately must be a nightmare. FDM printing, the style that's available to the public, would struggle with such fine teeth. This one looks rad too, and is available now, but only for leaf shutter lenses.

https://petapixel.com/2018/06/21/goodman-one-is-an-open-source-3d-printed-analog-camera/

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Fair enough, I guess my only points of reference are my Kiev and X-570, and while I love both the full metal construction of the MTL5 makes it feel a fair bit nicer in hand.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

I couldn't get the battery compartment open on the MTL5 for the life of me, but I did find out I can access it if I remove the bottom plate. I put a hearing aid battery in, and with a rubber band gasket, it's metering in agreement with my Minolta. Time to run a roll through !

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

I'm on the shoot digital first and jump to film later bandwagon. I had the same idea as you and had a 7000i for my first film camera. IMO the Maxxum 7000 isn't the best film camera to begin with as it's missing a couple of features that really help with applying the basics of what you'll be learning. Shooting in manual focus is a pain as it has no focusing aide, aperture and shutter speed settings are somewhat obfuscated and not as readily accessible as in older film cameras, and it's missing aperture preview a feature that allows you to check your depth of field before taking a shot.

In saying that it is a good hands off camera. The autofocus works well and it meters and exposes accurately. It will get you well exposed and in focus shots in most situations. It will struggle with birding. Modern digital cameras are a much better tool for that. If you come to the birding thread you'll learn how much of a money pit that can be.

Still, my advice would be to borrow a friend's old DSLR, or buy a second hand one for cheap, a Sony a230 would be good and also able to use the Minolta lens you have for the Maxxum. If you really want to dive into film first then one generation of cameras older will be a better learning tool. The Minolta X570/X700, Olympus OM10, Pentax ME/ME Super or any other manual focus camera from the time with an in viewfinder display, aperture priority mode and through the lens metering will be more hands on, but still be able to automate the most important aspect of photography, getting your exposure right. Those cameras are also much smaller and lighter than the 7000 and portability can not be understated.

e: As for videos I really like The Art Of Photography, his basics playlist is very good and taught me a lot https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGEE7pGLuppT2MB0a7TYgBx_ZHDDHaEr6

Megabound fucked around with this message at 12:20 on Sep 11, 2018

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Velvia 50 is a difficult film to get right in optimal conditions, I'd get it into a different camera.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Just be aware you only have ~5 stops of range on Velvia, most other colour films have ~8. If you're looking to get blown highlights and crushed blacks in a single image tho it's perfect.



It is a really rewarding film to get right tho, I need to shoot more of it.

Megabound fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Sep 12, 2018

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

The Minolta 50mm f/1.7 is common as dirt and a wonderful lens and their 28mm f/3.5 is dirt cheap and also really great for the price point.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Blackhawk posted:

Just ordered a dark bag, Paterson style tank and some measuring cylinders and bottles last night woo. I'm going to try the black yarn thing for replacing the light seals around my film door and get some black self-adhesive foam sheet for the mirror bumper because the pre-cut light seal kits would cost twice as much to ship here as the kit itself costs.

Does anybody have any photo-references for various B&W films available and the kind of image they capture and how the developers effect that? I'm kinda feeling like high contrast and grainy.

I'm a big fan of JCH Streetpan 400 for high contrast stuff, not super grainy tho. Click for big, I'm always impressed by the detail it captured on the tile on the left hand face of the building.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

pseudorandom posted:


If I had any modeling skills, I bet it wouldn't be too hard to make a 3D printed base to hold the lens, a slide, and a cheap flashlight.

Sounds like an easy enough project. I'd be happy to model something up for it if you go ahead with the idea

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Insanite posted:

Definitely might keep those in mind as Christmas presents to... myself.

Do you have one? How is it?

e: Thread history says yes. 😎

I've been shooting with a Kiev 60 and am looking at picking up an Arax 60 for Christmas too. The Kiev is great apart from all it's Kiev eccentricities and a version that works as intended is very tempting. The cheap lenses are also great.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Every camera store I went into in Reading had film for sale, just ask and they'll probably pull out a box from under the counter.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

I'm looking at buying a scanner for 35 and 120 and am considering the Epson V550 or V600. Is there a marked difference in the quality of scans I'll get from the V600 or a different scanner I should be considering around the same price point?

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Got an Epson V600 for cheap yesterday and a copy of SilverFast and I'm absolutely loving scanning my own negs. Here's a comparison with what my Dev house gave me (low res scan) and what I got out of the V600

Dev House


My Scan


I'm currently using their negative presets along with the neutral eyedropper tool to get those results but I'd also like to try a more hands on approach with working from the negative, does anyone have a good workflow or tutorial on working with SilverFast that isn't just the "Scan it and select a preset" that all you YouTube tutorials put out?

e: I've just noticed mine has a bit of a magenta cast to it

Megabound fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Jan 17, 2019

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

pseudorandom posted:

:D:respek::D

I just got a V550 yesterday, and my home-development supplies are arriving tomorrow! I'm excited to be able to start really experimenting more with film (B&W at least) now that I'll be able to cut out the cost and time of mailing out for development.

Hopefully this time tomorrow I'll be able to share the results of both my first development attempt and my first ever roll of 120 film! :dance:

Nice! My second hand 600 was missing the bit of plastic insert to hold 120 flat so I can't scan any of that yet. I found a place online that sells film holders with variable heights for the 550 and 600 for dialing in perfect scan distance so I'll be picking up one of those next pay cheque.

Wild EEPROM posted:

Scan as a positive, 48 bit color

Open it up in photoshop

Invert

Levels

Select Red channel

Clipping on

Drag the sliders to set black and white point to barely any spots

Repeat for green / blue

Adjust color casts using curves

Cool, I'll give that a shot. Was hoping I could do it all inside SilverFast.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Helen Highwater posted:

This is just a 60x90 bit of plastic with rounded corners like a credit card, if you cut something like that from stiff paper, you'd have exactly the same thing. It slides into the end of the film holder and overlaps with the very end of the film to help flatten it.

Sweet, I'll get something cut out this evening and start scanning some 120 then!

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Epson Scan was working fine for my V600 but I moved to Silverfast and it's also running fine. My main issue now is that Adobe products won't install on my machine, failing with a P44 error. I'm using a portable installation now that's probably bitcoin mining malware to boot.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Karl Barks posted:

you could automate it by buying a scanner. silverfast, epsonscan, or vuescan all can convert a negative into a color corrected positive directly from a scanner

The colour correction for SilverFast gets close, but it's still essential to go into Photoshop and edit. I started off using their built in profiles but have since abandoned that for working with the negs directly. Once you get an eye for it you can get a pretty quick turn around.

My current process is Prescan in SilverFast with their colour correction applied, if I like the shot I'll do a full scan to 48bit RAW and work on it in Photoshop.

Here's a serious gently caress-up that both Silverfast, and the auto-corrected version I got from my lab came back with Ektar 100:

Silverfast


Photoshop


This is more representative of what SilverFast puts out using their default profiles, Fuji Pro 400H:

Silverfast


Photoshop


In the end, I'm going to be going in and making extensive corrections anyway I'd much rather put in a little more work and work with a file that has more detail, and captures more dynamic range than the 24bit corrected scan. I doubt Epsonscan would be worth pursuing for its auto correction but can't say anything towards Vuescan or Negative Pro Lab.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

SMERSH Mouth posted:

Thinking about getting a half frame camera recently.

Me too, top of my list is the Olympus PEN D3, which has a built in meter but is otherwise manual. They're pretty reasonably priced too, at least in Aus.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

I too find it shameful that people talk about film gear in the film gear thread and post photos in the photo relevant threads.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Fine, I'll upload some photos of you'll shut the gently caress up.





All my photos are film, I just put them in the landscape thread usually instead of doubling or tripling up in the film, medium format and landscape thread.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012





Megabound
Oct 20, 2012







Who knows where those 2 lines came from in the first show? Film!

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

polyester concept posted:

they look like a camera strap hanging in front of the lens

Well then, that'd be why I took 2 frames of that, but the second one without the shadows isn't framed as well.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

So I bought a $20 lightbox off of eBay.



The moral of the story is don't buy a $20 lightbox off eBay.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Safety Dance posted:

I left an unexposed roll of Portra 400 in my checked bag the other day. Is it worth shooting on and getting it processed, or should I just eat the $8 loss?

I had 14 exposed rolls go through 4 x-ray checkpoints in 2 days and it was all fine. It'll be fine.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012







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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

In terms of sharpness or contrast? I'm scanning with a V600 but can't tell if I'm running up against its abilities with 35mm or if I just did an average job scanning slide for the first time.

These are off the same scanner and feel sharper to me eyes, but I could also be huffing my own farts. These are also colour negative stock.



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