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FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Aflicted posted:

I've never had a car with "hill start assist". It was always part of driving a manual transmission car, you learn to have quick and smooth feet. I hadn't noticed it until the other day when I took my foot off the brake with the clutch in and it didn't roll back. I was intending for it to roll back in my driveway about a foot to make room, but it just sat there for a few seconds and then released. It made a clunking noise when it did so. I then started to notice it more when driving and it always makes a clunking noise. Is this normal? What is actually holding the car? Is it just the brakes, something in the transmission? Can I disable it?!


I stalled out a bunch of times using the hill start assist, and I still don't do it right. When the clutch and brakes are in, and you're on a hill, it engages. It's the brakes that hold it. I think it's about 3 seconds. There is a way to disable it.


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FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

bull3964 posted:

You get more or less used to it eventually, but it has caused me to stall the car on more than one occasion.

I find it odd that you can only disable it on the STI, but not the regular WRX.

Really? It can be done on the base 2012+ Impreza. Maybe the WRX will have it in the new models?


Anyway, that kind of stuff is in the owners manuals http://www.subaru.com/owners/resource-center/owners-manuals/index.html

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Seat Safety Switch posted:

The XV is loving wicked and you should get that in either: lime green, olive drab or orange. Then sell me the wheels off of it.

Mechanically there don't seem to be a lot of complaints about the XV or the '12+ Impreza that I've noticed lately. I don't know anything about the Outback.

I would have bought an XV if my previous car had waited another 6 months to die. My '12 Impreza is great. Especially the brakes. Like when I'm driving home from the grocery store and some moron signals right, gets into the shoulder, slows down, and begins to turn right, but then suddenly swerves back into the road going straight. Also the auto-dimming mirror is pretty good when additional idiots drive with their high beams on.



BoyBlunder posted:

Why do I see so many Subaru owners with cars that have front-mounted license plate deletes, and then their plate to the side? The only time I could see this as being beneficial would be if you had a FMIC or something.

It drives my OCD bananas.

Is it mounted on the bumper at all? I typically see people crying about front plates because *MY BUMPER* :qq:





There's a BRZ around here that's lowered in such a way that it bounces like a seesaw when it goes over bumps. Also it has ugly rims and stretched tires. And the plastidipped emblems are pretty tacky, but the other crap just completely takes away what the car is known for.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

GrAviTy84 posted:

So I've decided to roll with the Continental ExtremeContact DW's because of a combination of car and driver test reports, tirerack.com survey results, their treadwear compared to the others I was looking at, and the price point. Something noticed when I took the car in worries me. The passenger front tire had a lot of wear on the inside side of the tread. There was disproportionate wear on the driver's side, too but not as bad, the rears looked fine. Is this just indicative of hard cornering/driving style or is there a suspension problem that needs addressing? How do I diagnose it if it is suspension? 2002 wrx wagon fwiw.

I have a bluetooth OBD scanner coming today so hopefully it can shed a bit of light on my powerloss problem.

Have you had an alignment recently?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

GrAviTy84 posted:

Is that something I can do myself or should I take it in to a specialist?

It's easier and faster to just take it somewhere. Make sure your steering wheel is straight when they give it back to you.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

How serious is a P000b code on the check engine light? Like immanent death, or I can drive around for a few days?

Here's an associated service bulletin:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20080&d=1352490977

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

FogHelmut posted:

How serious is a P000b code on the check engine light? Like immanent death, or I can drive around for a few days?

Here's an associated service bulletin:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20080&d=1352490977

I called the service department at the dealership, they said I would be fine to drive around until they can look at it on Tuesday.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Linux Nazi posted:

Looks to be the same TSB for the cam positioning sensor on the FA20 in the BRZ, in which case it just goes into a semi-limp mode. I know it's a super-common issue on the BRZ/FRS and yes, you are fine to drive around on it.

The ECU update that corrects the problem adjusts how the cam position sensors are polled. Back when they didn't know what the root cause was, they were ripping out cam gear assemblies and replacing them as a correction.

Yeah, I don't notice any loss of power or anything. Just the CEL is on, and the traction control light as well.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Linux Nazi posted:

Looks to be the same TSB for the cam positioning sensor on the FA20 in the BRZ, in which case it just goes into a semi-limp mode. I know it's a super-common issue on the BRZ/FRS and yes, you are fine to drive around on it.

The ECU update that corrects the problem adjusts how the cam position sensors are polled. Back when they didn't know what the root cause was, they were ripping out cam gear assemblies and replacing them as a correction.

I'm just quoting this again for context.



I took my 2012 Impreza to the dealer to have the code checked out. They want me to come back next week and leave the car with them, saying they have to pull things apart, and take measurements of the cams, and it could take up to 2 days to diagnose. They will be providing me with a loaner vehicle, so whatever they need to do to fix it is fine with me. But does this seem excessive? That's all of the info I got on the phone, and I'll know more when I go to pick it up.


edit- Apparently their specialist is away at Subaru school this week, I think they don't have the expertise there right now to deal with it or diagnose it.

FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Aug 13, 2013

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

FogHelmut posted:

I'm just quoting this again for context.



I took my 2012 Impreza to the dealer to have the code checked out. They want me to come back next week and leave the car with them, saying they have to pull things apart, and take measurements of the cams, and it could take up to 2 days to diagnose. They will be providing me with a loaner vehicle, so whatever they need to do to fix it is fine with me. But does this seem excessive? That's all of the info I got on the phone, and I'll know more when I go to pick it up.


edit- Apparently their specialist is away at Subaru school this week, I think they don't have the expertise there right now to deal with it or diagnose it.

I went to the dealer to drop off my car today, and ended up not doing that. I've put about 800 miles on it since the light first came on. The light has not returned.

Speaking with the service manager and a tech, the error code basically means that the camshaft sprocket is not in the position where the sensor expects it to be. This could be due to a number of reasons - software glitch, bad sensor, bad camshaft sprocket. In the case of a bad sensor or bad sprocket, the code would continue to appear. Especially with a bad sprocket, there would be a noticeable lack of power and the engine would be running poorly. In my case, I had none of these additional symptoms.

They recommended not opening the engine unless it's really necessary, which I somewhat agree with, whether or not they were trying to get out of doing work. They also said that no damage could occur to the engine from this. And most importantly, they said I would still be covered under warranty if I chose not to have the work done at this time.

So I took my car and went to work. If it comes back, they're opening that thing up. Or am I stupid and should have made them do it anyway?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I have a 2012 Impreza, and some Hella 500ff lights. This is an initial mock-up.



Installing them just like this is not going to work because when the grille is installed, the lights would be pointing 45 degrees up in the air. There is a black plastic piece that holds the mesh part in, and probably gives the whole thing structure. It can be unscrewed, which is how I got the lights in.




I would need to cut into this piece, which I'm not sure I want to do, because despite being a small bit of plastic, this grille is $200+. Or I can get smaller lights.


This is what it looks like behind the grille. Its raining a lot right now, so I'm not going outside to see if there would even be clearance between the grille and radiator.



This could look cool, giving the lights something of a brow line if you will. But I don't know how the light pattern would be effected.


Should I be concerned about airflow? I don't think heat from the lamps themselves should be an issue. Does anyone have any thoughts, ideas, suggestions, or concerns?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

daslog posted:

How much shake will that plastic piece have?

si posted:

I think you underestimate the heat from the lamps, but also what that dude said, can you mount them solid enough to avoid them shaking all over?

Generally I'd suggest mounting them out front a bit and solidly to the bumper or other solid metal structure.

You should also check your laws locally if you care - here I technically can be cited if I do not have the covers on my 500FFs while on the road. The cops in IL and MO both will actually do this sometimes if you get pulled over for something else (speeding, light out, etc).

I plan on building some kind of a structure behind the grille, I think there are a few bolts around the radiator area that can be latched on to. I wouldn't actually attach it to that plastic piece, but rather to something like this stuff.

There is tons of conflicting information about auxiliary lights in NJ. You can't have more than 4 forward-facing lights (this car and many others have 6 stock - separate low beams, high beams, fog lights.) You can't have more than 4 lights on at the same time. The lights must be attached to a circuit that does not allow them to run unless the high beams are on. You need covers if they are higher than the headlights. You need covers if they are not lower than the headlights. You need covers period.

I like behind the grille rather than out front because it's not this big obvious thing.

FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Sep 2, 2013

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I think I like this, I need to figure out how to make it fit.

FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Sep 4, 2013

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Is that a rear fog light? They come on with the front fog lights, and are about as bright as brake lights. You're really not supposed to drive with your fog lights on unless there is fog, but some people like to go "ooh look at all of my lights."

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Well there's something that I didn't consider - this air dam thing behind the grille that diverts air to the intake.

You can see it on the left here:





The other side fits fine. But I can't put the Hella 500ff on the side with the intake.


How damaging to my engine would cutting this be? How much of my warranty would be voided?




I may just have to get smaller lights.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Amandyke posted:

Why not just get a projector based fog light (such as: http://www.jegs.com/i/Hella/288/H71...CFcdxQgodMD0AnA ) instead of those hugely unnecessary 500ff's? Did your WRX not come with fog lights? Or are you just wanting the LOL rally car look?

It's regular Impreza. I have fog lights. I need additional driving lights for when I drive down my mom's gravel driveway.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

VelociBacon posted:



No modifications required!

I was leaning more towards this



Bajaha posted:

Since I'm a fan of overkill when it comes to lighting, I'll try to help. It's too new to track down parts in a junkyard so if you'd want to reverse this mod anytime soon I think you're stuck with buying a new grill from Subaru.

The intake temps might rise a little but it shouldn't change anything too much, you're just cutting the little air dam that helps push cold outside air into the intake from my understanding. Reduced flow over the radiator shouldn't be too bad either, the lower grill draws in air for the radiator as well.

For the grill melting, I'd probably stick to only running then while in motion. They're big lights so the heat should be a little more spread out and it might be ok to run then while stationary but no guarantees. Once you have them installed maybe take a thermal probe and see just how hot the grill gets.

Good luck, and worst case you'd just need to get a new grill.

Realistically, the grille costs more than the lights, so I'm probably not going to risk it. I'm thinking of going with Hella Micro FF, or some Chinese knockoff LED light bars.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

angor posted:

Hey Subaru guys! After nearly 5 years of not owning a car, I finally got myself some wheels. And it's a Subaru! My first, in fact.

It's a 2008(2007?) Impreza 2.0 5MT. I'm really liking it so far! I've been trying to figure out what engine it has, but I'm having a bit of trouble. I know it's a 2L engine. I've tried my damnedest to find out, but the farthest I've got is it's either 150hp, 165hp or 190hp (JDM). The car was bought in the Middle East, and I think it was made for this market. Here's a shot of the plaque in the door jamb:



Can anyone help identify what this is?

Best guess http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine#Specifications_4

EJ204 DOHC naturally aspirated AVCS
Legacy JDM BL - BP series
2003-2009 190 PS (140 kW)

140 kilowatts = 187.743093 hp

edit - better answer This has American codes, but it's a start http://www.cars101.com/subaru/vin.html
I think that model/motor was sold in Russia, considering all of the Google results are Russian.

FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Oct 3, 2013

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

The owner's manual says to turn off traction control if you are stuck.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

powderific posted:

This weekend my 2013 Crosstrek, my girlfriend's 2008 Grand Prix, and our duplex neighbor's second generation Sportage were all "broken" into with no apparent damage. We came out in the morning to unlocked cars with stuff rifled through. There wasn't much in the cars to begin with—they took a coat, some cd's, and our neighbor's kickboxing gloves (?)—and it didn't look like they did anything other than that to my or my girlfriend's car. They did break our neighbor's ignition.

While I'm glad that they didn't break out our windows, it weirds me out that they got in with apparently very little effort. I know nothing about car security—are they all that easy to break into? Is there any point in putting in a security system? I don't want a siren going off at the slightest touch but I did notice they make pager versions that'd at least let me know it's being hosed with

Check your weather stripping/door seals. You can easily use a wedge (like a door stop) to crack open the door enough to slide in a metal rod to press the unlock button.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I always liked how the sedan WRX's looked, but the hatch is just way too functional to not buy.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

powderific posted:

Anyone who already has side rails and wants crossbars should definitely check out Malone's stuff. New, they're $100 and come with locks and whatnot that are extra on other systems. Let me spend a little extra to get the saddles I wanted.



I have a Yakima round bar setup, but it's noisy as hell, even with the fairing. And it kills my MPG's so I don't use it unless I have to. I need to clear out some closet space, and was thinking about getting something I could leave on all the time without the noise or MPG hit. The OEM aero bars look a bit flimsy. Maybe these Malones are what I need?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Totally TWISTED posted:

I have a question about the most newbie of "mods" possible. I ordered 2 fumoto valves for my 12 Impreza and my wife's 14 Outback, following the model # guidelines on the fumoto website. Beyond "replace drain plug with fumoto valve" during the oil change I have planned for Thursday, do I need to be concerned about X or do Y?

Super basic I know but keeping oil in the engine is important :downs:

I have a Fumoto valve on my '12 Impreza, the one with the tip for attaching a hose. It is nice because the oil pan design shoots the oil out at massive velocities. I have never made a mess changing oil on any other car, but removing the drain plug from my Impreza for the first time managed to be a disaster. I'm not even kidding, if you haven't done it before, be careful. It's almost comical.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Seat Safety Switch posted:

Can't seem to find this anywhere, maybe someone here knows.

Is the 6-speed transmission out of the current Impreza the same one as the crappy cable-shift 6-speed from the last-gen Legacy where they've managed to somehow cram two gears outside the main case?

If that's the case I sure hope the new WRX they're announcing next week won't be the same.

The current (not WRX/STI) Impreza has a 5 speed.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Seat Safety Switch posted:

Huh. I had thought when they went to 2012 it got a 6-speed. I stand corrected.

It could definitely use a 6 speed. There are times, like in heavy traffic or parking lots, when I find myself going too slow for 2nd but too fast for 1st. And it would be nice to have a larger highway gear. Fuel efficiency tops out at 50 mph.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

TheFargate posted:

I wouldnt say tops out at 50 mph. My wrx will get 27-28 mpg cruisin at 70-75 in 5th. But I also have not done anything to it.

I'm talking about the 148hp 2.0i current generation Impreza. 50mph I get around 35+ mpg. It diminishes from there. 75-80 mph is in the 28 mpg range.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

TacoHavoc posted:

My girlfriend has a 2010 forester that has apparently only had four wheel studs in the rear for over a year. She's up for inspection so I've got to fix it. Two questions:

1: is this as simple as remove wheel, brakes, and tone ring, press out old snapped stud, pull in new stud with washers and lug nut? Or am I missing something in there?

2: Where is the best place to actually buy these parts (new stud and lug)? It's five bucks worth of stuff, which doesn't meet the genuinesubaruparts minimum order.

Help!

I haven't done this on a Subaru, but on another car -

1- Yes, but getting the old one out can be a pain, and might be annoying to maneuver the new one in.
2- Local auto parts store should carry these.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

bull3964 posted:

That said, I've heard it's much better to press them out as tapping/hammering can ruin a wheel bearing.

Pretty sure I did this, but someone else told me that it was impossible to hurt a wheel bearing like that.

Also it was a 3lb hammer.

FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Nov 19, 2013

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

tetrapyloctomy posted:

I would ask what you're running on your car for winter tires, but being in the same state means nothing when Philadelphia can't maintain its roads for even trivial amounts of inclement weather.

They can plow the streets, but then people just dig their cars out and throw the snow back in the street.

Actually, my step-dad used to plow in Philadelphia. The city waits for it to stop snowing, then hires contractors to clean it up. Time and a half for everyone, and 30 hour shifts, hooray! It's typical for people who just dug their cars out to throw chairs and shovels at the plow drivers, angry that their car is going to get plowed back in with snow. Do you want the road cleared or not? Then there was that one time his loader hit a manhole (the whole pipe) that was for some reason sticking up out of the pavement. It stopped the loader instantly like it was nothing. He ended up with a concussion and a big gash in his forehead.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I'm not planning on lifting my vehicle. This is just more of a general question - are plastic lift spacers safe? In terms of would they wear down over usage? Is this even a good idea for the suspension and drive train in general?


powderific posted:

You got me there—it's fine to me but neither of my last two vehicles were particularly new. It doesn't seem like that much of a change from my 01 G35 with no nav so take that however you will. I also got the base model with no nav and immediately replaced the stereo. Didn't even look at one with a touch screen. I wouldn't be surprised if it was garbage as the stock stereo sounded terrible. Functionally it was fine and the bluetooth actually worked extremely well.

What makes a console antiquated anyway?

I have a '12 Impreza, which has the same interior. I have the plain stereo with buttons and knobs. While the audio isn't the best, the button and knobs work extremely well.

FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Dec 13, 2013

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

goatse guy posted:

Yeah, you still get free wiper blades up to 3 years/36k miles.

I wish I had known about it earlier, because the wiper blades that SOA gives out are poo poo-tier. Mine are already toast after 5k miles of winter driving.

I went for the free wiper blades once. I had to wait at the dealer 45 minutes.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

goatse guy posted:

I waited five minutes. I told them I'd install them myself, but they insisted on having one of the service guys do it.

They told me because it was technically a warranty item, they had to install it. Free coffee and big leather chairs in the waiting room, could have been worse, but not worth the time.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

How often do you replace the differential/manual transmission oil? I'm looking at the maintenance schedule and it says just to inspect it every 30k miles. This is a 2012 Impreza 2.0i.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

So waiting until the spring is fine? I just see people on various forums saying "well change it anyway just because."

edit - I'm at 30k miles now.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

The previous guy just cut out the original plug in the dash and soldered all of the wires directly to the head unit? That is annoying.

I just installed a Alpine KTP-445U amp yesterday, and used the breakout harness from ae64.com. It made things really easy and also no permanent changes to the car's wiring. I haven't soldered much in my life, but its not that hard. But also I was working at my kitchen table and not inside of a dash.

Soldering is the best, but you can also crimp butt splice connectors. But soldering is the best.

Basic soldering guide http://www.whoolie.com/solder.htm

If you have one of those soldering irons with the pointy end, use the fat part further up the shaft, you get better heat transfer. Also clean the iron with the sponge between solders. If you leave the solder on the iron, chemicals react and it will literally eat away at the tip and you'll have to get a new tip.

FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Jan 12, 2014

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Ok, now make a wagon, possibly with GT attached to it.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Totally TWISTED posted:

I have a 2012 base model hatch. The passenger airbag sensor needs to be replaced on some of them with one calibrated to not turn off when a cellphone is plugged in and sitting on the seat or the passenger is sweaty. Otherwise I'm not aware of any endemic issues. I do however need to figure out why outside air seems to come in via the glove box.

Barring those issues I couldn't be happier with the car. It doesn't have the power of a wrx obviously but if you delay your upshifting you can get up to interstate speeds faster than the idiots in front of you on the on-ramp anyway.

The cabin air filter is behind the glove box, check there.


I have a 2012 sport premium hatch 5 speed. I like it. Its good on gas and drives through everything. Its very roomy and has great visibility. The headlights are the best I've ever had on a car. The power isn't going to impress you, but its adequate. There is enough there to merge onto highways and get up hills. The brakes are very good, and the ABS isn't intrusive. The suspension feels pretty good.


Cons - stock tires are complete garbage in wet or snow. The paint on the bumper chips very easily. Seats aren't the greatest for long trips.


If the XV had been available when I needed to buy a car, I would have gotten that. More ground clearance and a stiffer body + suspension, and its allowed to tow up to 1000lbs I think. However, I've had the Impreza with 2 kayaks on the roof and the cargo area fully loaded, and it did fine.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Totally TWISTED posted:

I actually replaced this at the recommended interval last year I think? But yeah I'll have to scope that out. Main reason I haven't looked at it yet is that I hardly ever have a passenger and I am lazy.

On the seats I have done 4x 8-10 hour drives and found them great but then again I usually do long hauls in a E-350. Passengers had no complaints though, of course seats are very subjective anyway.

I haven't done anything that long, but numerous 3-4 hour drives. There's just nothing in the lumbar region, it makes me think I'm an old man or something.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Alpine Mustache posted:

I picked up a new 2014 Outback about a week an a half ago and I have a few questions about the bluetooth, mostly because there isn't much in the way of documentation other than how to pair it with your phone and the commands for using the phone.

I paired it with my phone just fine (Samsung Galaxy S4 on t-mobile), but it doesn't seem to pick up any contacts from my phone, and I'm not sure if it is supposed to or not. Also, for the phone numbers I have manually stored in the phone book, there doesn't seem to be a way to input a name to display in text on the display screen, it only has the audio of the name i recorded when I entered it into the phone book. Is this how it is supposed to work?

Yes. Its a very basic system and generally sucks. You have to use the built in menus and store your contacts in there manually. Its clumsy to use, but ultimately works. I wish it was even more simple and just worked like any basic Bluetooth headset, because phones already have built in software that works pretty well. But then at least it isn't some overinstrusive system that takes over the whole car and tries to be everything.

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FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Why do they come with a donut spare?

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