|
TheFonz posted:What is a good foam I can shape and then lay fiberglass over? I want to make a custom tail section, but I don't want my foam disintegrating when I put resin on it. Use the green foam they use in plant arrangements. Very easy to shape and doesn't melt in acetone (or fiberglass resin). VV Chains and strait cut gears. Bikes tend to have plenty of both. obso fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Oct 5, 2008 |
#
¿
Oct 5, 2008 05:49
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 16:44 |
|
|
Lord Zuthulu posted:Also, do people ever make their own silencers from scratch, just for the hell of it, and have them not sound like poo poo or a cherry bomb? Sometimes you can easily gut the stock can(s). I have a stock slipon from an 04 R6 that I opened up, removed the catalitic converter ,most of the baffles, and rivited it back together. I was afraid it was going to sound like rear end (I was only out $20) but it actually sounds pretty good. Much better than it did with the 16 year old stock exhaust. And it's still quieter than a lot of aftermarket exhausts.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2008 17:28
|
|
|
Got a question about a vibration/growl on a Honda VTX. I'm currently babysitting this bike for my old man but after riding it around something just doesn't feel right. It's a 06 vtx1800 w/ 4k miles. The problem(?) is a grinding/growling noise coming from the drivetrain. It seems to be there all the time but is most noticeable when crusing or decelerating in gear (probably because thats the only time you can feel/hear it over the motor). The best way to describe the noise/vibration is like a car that has had the brake pads wore down to metal or has a bad wheel bearing. Just a low toned kind of metallic growl that you can feel transmitted threw the bike. It does change with speed but doesn't matter what gear it's in. I'm not entirely sure it's not normal since I've never ridden another one to compare it to. But I have ridden a lot of big shaft driven bikes and never experienced it before. Edit: Link Link Might be on to something here. I don't see any 06's mentioned in those but that's exactly what it sounds like to my butt/ear diagnostics. Guess I'll pull it down and take a look. Bearings failing at 4k miles sounds like a serious manufacturer problem, especially if this problem started surfacing on 02's. obso fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Jun 27, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2009 21:30
|
|
|
Gnaghi posted:Electric starter made a single crank and nothing. Hot start and kickstarter did nothing (though I can't kickstart the bike anyways). When you tried kick-starting it would it not turn over at all or would it just turn over and not start?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2009 22:52
|
|
|
Gnaghi posted:to the point were it would turn over a bit and the lights came on, The lights came on while you were kicking it? Shouldn't they be on all the time from your battery? If the lights stopped working the same time your starter did (and then worked later without having to charge/jump it) you probably just have a bad connection on one of your battery cables. Bad battery connection will also make it harder than normal to kick-start.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2009 23:22
|
|
|
Chris Knight posted:Should I replace the wires altogether, or strip out the corroded ends and re-attach? Is this indicative of another problem? Bike is a 1980 Honda CB400T, just over 21,000 km. Replace them if you can without having to buy new coils. Otherwise cut as much of the corroded wire off that you can without making them too short. I don't think I've ever seen stranded copper spark plug wires like that. I mean my 82 vf750 has stranded plug wires but they still have shielding/brading like a normal plug wire. obso fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Jul 31, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jul 31, 2009 03:50
|
|
|
Chris Knight posted:Oh, it still has the boots that fit over the plugs, I was just seeing what was underneath. Yeah I was talking about the construction of the wire. I took a closer look at mine and they are basically the same except with 2 colors of insulation (white on the inside black outside). Guess it was just the macro picture that made it look different.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 31, 2009 17:09
|
|
|
Buhbuhj posted:So I put new bars on my bike and it seemed like I was getting more vibes from it. However, after getting new grips and attempting to make some dampeners for the bars I'm starting to think it might actually be my gloves. Would them being too tight on my hands make it feel like the vibes are worse than they actually are? If you were going from stock bars to aftermarket you probably will get more vibration. A lot of stock bars have some dampening (metal rod coated with rubber) built into them, most aftermarket do not. You probably also noticed the new bars weighed half as much, that's why. You'll get used to it.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 15, 2009 21:02
|
|
|
shaitan posted:ninja250.org says it doesn't matter what it's for. Just make sure whatever you use is compatible with whats already in there. If in doubt flush out all the old stuff and in with the new. I can't imagine a coolant flush is that much work on a ex250.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 16, 2009 16:23
|
|
|
cmorrow001 posted:After my carb swap to the FCR, my DRZ takes a bit to get started. It almost always needs to have the choke on (unless its fully warm and has been ridden in the last hour or so) and when cold, it always take a lot of holding the starter before it turns on (say 5 seconds where before the swap took <1). If you blip the throttle does the engine quickly back down to a steady idle? I.E. Doesn't hang at higher rpms for a second then drop down, or drop down quick to a low idle then smooth out. If it does one or the other you need to adjust your idle air mixture (which way depends on what it's doing).
|
|
#
¿
Aug 19, 2009 19:04
|
|
|
lostleaf posted:How do you guys power stuff like gps on your bikes? Do you guys use cigarette adaptors? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3187825 If you can use usb to power it.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 20, 2009 03:38
|
|
|
BotchedLobotomy posted:Before I go and buy a new one, anything I should check beforehand? The batteries in your multimeter.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 26, 2009 19:23
|
|
|
Is there any big downside to running semi-knobby tires on a street bike? I have an extra set of rims for my 92 xj600 and was seriously considering picking up a set of knobby dual sport tires for it. I don't want to do any serious off-road riding, just something a little more sure footed for exploring back roads/well roads/no roads. And to possibly to run as winter tires once it gets colder since I ride it year round. I know cornering and braking are going to be degraded but I don't really know to what extent. Edit: I should add that 90% of my riding is sub 50mph commute. I was looking at something like the Kenda K270's here. obso fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Oct 16, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2009 17:42
|
|
|
Z3n posted:I'd run avon distanzias instead. Those cost 5 times what the kenda's do tho. I'm not really looking to replace my street tires, just something to throw on when I want to go backroading or if it's snowing (they have to work better than the current street tires for that). I think I'm ok clearance wise, might have to raise the front fender a little but that's no thing. And I was going to run tubes since they say they are tubeless. I was mainly just concerned with their sub 50mph street performance. I'm not trying to drag knees with them, I just don't want them wondering around too much on on-ramps and such.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2009 17:55
|
|
|
Need some carb tuning/diagnostic advice. Bike is a 1980 SR250 (same motor as the XT250 but with a CV carb). Has a pod filter and a custom exhaust. I can't seem to get the high-rpm jetting correct, or more likely I have a different issue. Bike is fine at part and mid throttle, even fine at WOT until the higher RPM ranges. It pulls hard until it gets to 60mph (geared for 80ish) when it stops accelerating and spits, sputters and backfires until you back off the throttle some. If you modulate the throttle carefully at the point before it starts sputtering it will continue up to ~70. I've adjusted the fuel level up and down and tried from a 130(stock) to 170 main jet and it makes no difference in the sputtering, happens at 60mph every time. I have plenty of fuel flow threw the carb and the plug is staying a nice medium brown. Any ideas? I've also looked the diaphragm over and can't see any cracks or splits.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2011 02:19
|
|
|
There's only has one vacuum line that is about 4" long. It and its connection to the carb boot are secure. I didn't just jump from a 130 to a 170, I started off in increments of 5 but then 10 when it wasn't turning the plug black. And yes it is noticeable in lower gears as an artificial rev limiter, but you can shift and it pulls hard again until it reaches that specific rpm (doesn't have a tach).
obso fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Apr 2, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2011 06:34
|
|
|
If you need it just a little shorter heat it up with a torch and bend it outwards slightly. Keeps from having to deal with welding it if you cut it.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2011 19:04
|
|
|
PestiferousTrollop posted:This may seem like a dumb question, but would there be any reason not to use bed liner on a UJM swing arm? It will resist rock chipping better than paint but it has a tendency to lift and trap moisture underneath and cause rust that you can't see. As long as you are meticulous with your prep it shouldn't be a problem tho.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2011 22:08
|
|
|
obso posted:Need some carb tuning/diagnostic advice. Found the culprit. During extended WOT it doesn't produce enough vacuum to keep fuel flowing threw the petcock. If you flip it over to prime the problem completely goes away. Anyway around this? other than leaving it on prime or changing it to a non-vacuum type petcock.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2011 00:51
|
|
|
Why not ride it if it's only 300 miles? But tied down in the back of a truck is fine, just ratchet strap it down and go. It's way easier than having to deal with pulling a trailer.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2011 01:12
|
|
|
You measure voltage on a battery, it shouldn't make any sounds. How are you determining your battery is charged? edit: oh, did you mean the motor cranked over but never actually started?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2011 01:55
|
|
|
Yeah that's better. (not being pedantic, I was confused too). Since it's been setting a while it would probably be a good idea to drain the carb bowls and let some new fuel get in there. Also a little spurt of ether might help wake it up and get the old stuff burned out.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2011 06:12
|
|
|
Here4DaGangBang posted:I tried it again after the charger said the battery was fully charged and it fired up, despite the voltage reading back down in the 12s once the charger was removed - I guess the cranking amps available increase as the charge does? Sounds normal. A charged battery should read ~12.5 after it's been setting. How far does the voltage drop when you are revving it? If it's getting below 13.5 you have a stator/regulator problem, but as long as it stays somewhere between 13.5 and 14.5 threw the rpm range it's fine.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 5, 2011 17:30
|
|
|
"[panic posted:"] I've never had any issues from jump starting a bike from a car. You don't need to start the car, it'll be more than enough to start a bike. I did however burn up a RR using a bike to jump start a car. 
|
|
#
¿
Apr 13, 2011 19:10
|
|
|
SlightlyMadman posted:You can actually do some pretty serious damage to a bike if the car is running, I've always been told this, but about the worst thing that would happen is you could cook a battery. Other than charging a bike battery too quickly the rest of the motorcycle electrical system isn't going to be effected by it. They all run at the same voltages.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 13, 2011 19:21
|
|
|
AhhYes posted:05 Ducati Monster 620 fuel pump issues. It really sounds like you have a bad connection or ground somewhere. I would start by making sure all the points where grounds connect to the engine/frame are clean and tight.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 15, 2011 05:29
|
|
|
Expound on "the relay" a little. Your bike probably has half a dozen. Solenoid maybe? Take your volt meter and see if you get 12v to the cable connection on the starter when you push the starter button. If yes, then your starter is bad/dieing.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2011 02:06
|
|
|
I'm pretty sure your brother is right. A 2ohm ballast resistor should be fine, just make sure you use one with a high enough wattage. 25w should be fine, even better if you can bolt it to the frame to use it as a heat sink.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2011 17:52
|
|
|
Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I think pretty much every bike shop refuses to patch tires now. You can buy a tubeless tire plug kit at a hardware store and try it yourself, if you're feeling adventurous, though. Why are (properly) patched tires that big of a deal? VV I guess I was wondering more about the "feeling adventurous" part. Unless he was just referring to the process. obso fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Apr 23, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2011 02:50
|
|
|
Does it have trouble starting threw the whole tank of gas? Or is it just hard to start after the initial fillup?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2011 16:15
|
|
|
30-60 seconds probably wouldn't hurt but for much longer I'd pull it off. It is coupled to the wheel with rubber dampers that may not like the excess heat. Can you borrow an impact? Or someone with an impact's time?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 26, 2012 02:52
|
|
|
Also check your timing chain tension(er). Not sure what the GS uses but I've heard several loose timing chains that sounded like a morse code click.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 26, 2012 23:09
|
|
|
Boru posted:Is this a result of Sea Foaming, is my vacuum tube messed up somehow, or did I just screw the pooch and attach the gas valve incorrectly? Looks more likely that a float got stuck. Give the carb bowl(s) a couple hits (with something that won't scar it) and see if that stops the leaking.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 1, 2012 22:34
|
|
|
Boru posted:Hmm my problem is that its leaking from the vacuum or the air line. On my fuel valve I have the lead out to go to the carbs, vacuum, and air. I think I may have switched the air and vacuum lines when I reinstalled the valve on the tank, but I'm not sure if that would make my bike pee fuel. It's a conundrum. The picture you posted is of the drain tubes from the carb and air box. If fuel is coming out of one of these it is most likely stuck floats. If fuel is coming out of the vacuum fitting on the petcock then the diaphragm is bad. Re: the starting issue. You probably just need to charge your battery.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 2, 2012 00:50
|
|
|
Frankston posted:My headlight has dimmed to the point where I can't see anything at night-time, but it flashes occasionally to normal brightness. Is it most likely simply a low battery, or could it be an issue with the wiring or even just a bulb that needs replacing? I had a bike to that and it was just the bulb. Apparently there was also a small running light(?) in the headlight housing so it still looked like the headlight was turning on, just dimly. And every now and then you would hit a bump just right and the headlight would come on and it would be bright for a while.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 8, 2012 14:13
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:and I get fuel slowly dribbling out of the carb overflows with the petcock on (probably dirty needles, no big deal). That is kind of a big deal if you are trying to get it started. Give the bowls a few taps to see if it stops. If the needles are sticking open starting fluid isn't going to help anything.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2012 03:49
|
|
|
Does this sound like a wrist pin tick? http://youtu.be/7Vcur_mmC-A The video makes it sound way louder than it is. It sounds more like valvetrain noise but I've set the lash and checked the cam chain tension(er) with no difference. It definitely sounds like it's coming from the top end. The bike is a 82 Yamaha SR250 with just over 7k miles (rescued from a field). Not that a picture makes a difference but here it is. 
|
|
#
¿
Nov 15, 2012 00:17
|
|
|
Wootcannon posted:
Which 3 bolts? What he is talking about Is the bolts that clamp the forks down in in the triple trees on each side. With the front tire still in the air from checking your disk brake, loosen the bolts holding the fork tubes. Most bikes just have one bolt securing the bottom clamp on each side, and then one or two on the top. You just need to loosen them a bit, not so much you can slide the forks out. Stand over the front tire, gripping it with your thighs, then grab the handle bars and give them a slight twist to the left& right (like you are turning but holding the front tire straight). Then straighten the bars so they are pointing straight when the tire is and tighten everything back up. This is a pretty common fix to have to do after you drop one and then the bars don't point straight anymore (I've never had it cause shuddering but it's worth a shot). Pham Nuwen posted:So this is kind of a continuation of something from "Tell me what bike to buy". I was looking at the first picture on http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/3403323929.html and it seems that the brake rod for the rear drum is funky... and sticking out weirdly. Looking online (not really familiar with drum brakes) I'm pretty sure the little lever linking the rod to the actual brake assembly should be on the bottom, which may explain why the rod is sticking out too far. Any thoughts on my analysis? I don't want to clutter up that thread with braketalk. That actuating arm can point either direction and it works the same. Some bikes have it pointing up, some down. The only thing that matters is there is clearance for the rod to pull it without binding or hitting something. I'm not familiar with your particular market but I would try to get that bike for about half what he's asking. obso fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Nov 21, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Nov 21, 2012 17:08
|
|
|
obso posted:Does this sound like a wrist pin tick? Well just an update. Whatever is making that tick is coming from the bottom end. So I'm guessing it's the rod bearing. Any idea how big of a job this is on a yamaha thumper? (not like their air-cooled design has changed any in the last 30 years) I've done plenty of top end rebuilds but never had to split the case on one. And also what is the likelihood of this failing catastrophically? My roommate is having to ride it to work for the next couple weeks (a whole ~5min ride) while her truck is getting repaired. Right now I'm just trying to listen for it to get louder until I get the time to tear it down.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 21, 2012 17:24
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 16:44 |
|
|
nsaP posted:I have no rivets or gun so that's no problem, I was thinking more drilling and bolting that joint, but I figured if they used a rivet on it maybe there was a reason. In my experience it's the hole in the lever itself that wears out and gets loose. So to fix it you would have to drill the hole out to the next bigger size then find a bolt with a 1/2" shank, otherwise the sharp threads will wear the hole out again in no time. I would just pick up some aftermarket levers, like JP said it's probably more work than it's worth. You can use some of that vinyl seat repair stuff to maybe slow down the hole that's forming in the seat cover. VV My current seat is probably 50% gorilla tape. obso fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Nov 22, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Nov 22, 2012 00:28
|
|