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hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
Is it safe to assume that if a chain has a missing o-ring and some that looked damaged it should probably be replaced? If so, is it easy to do myself? Looks like you just would need a chain breaker tool

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hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
Alright, sprockets don't look worn down so I'll give the chain a shot and see how it goes!

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
Where is the best place to get replacement fork seals? Can I replace the seals without a front stand, or is it a huge pain? This would be for a ninja 250.

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009

n8r posted:

Look into cleaning your fork seals:
http://sealmate.net/

You can improvise this tool as well. Always worth trying before you do the seals.

Thanks. I'll definitely give this a try first.

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
Just how hard is it to replace fork seals on an 09 ninja? The ninja250faq doesn't make it look super easy but it doesn't seem nearly worth the $375 I was quoted by a local shop.

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
I have a sv problem as well! I'm trying to change my brake pads and the front went fine but I can't get anywhere on the rear since the brake pad pin is stuck. No amount of penetrating oil seems to help and I'm worried I'm going to strip the screw completely and not have a way to get it out. I'm not sure what else to try.

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009

Z3n posted:



Do you have a hand impact driver? Very useful in situations like this.

Worst case you order another rear caliper off ebay for 25 bucks.

Alright, I'll give that a shot first. Probably a useful tool to have anyways

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
I'm looking for the spacer that goes between the turn signal and the nut that holds it to the bike. Hopefully my illustration shows where it would be. I didn't see the part in bike bandit, is this something I'll just have to go to home depot and try and find the perfect sized little plastic tube?

This is for a sv650 btw

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009

Ola posted:

Are they not there in this schematic? http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-sv650-sv650s-sv650a-2003-2007-k3-k4-k5-k6-k7-usa_model16252/partslist/434438.html#results

It's normal for original bike parts to gradually decay into Home Depot components. Perhaps this already happened during previous ownership.

Nah, unless I'm missing something I don't think they are. I previously got 15, 18, and 19 just in case but no luck.

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
I'm trying to swap handlebars on my sv650. Currently there's aftermarket one on it with heated grips that were installed by a dealer and the clutch side grip seems to be pretty stuck on there. Is there a way to get it off without cutting it or ruining the heating element? I was otherwise thinking of just leaving them on the old bars and buying new grips but it looks like the clutch assembly has to slide off.

Basically is it worth messing with a glued grip or is it stuck on there?

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
Well they turned out not to be glued. I think accidentally turning on the heated grips helped loosen them. I think my only concern now is making sure no cables are too tight at full lock.
Looks nice though!

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009

Pope Mobile posted:

Nice clutch lever there.

Poor man's insulation

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
So I'm having a little trouble getting my bike started. With everything off the battery is at 12.6 and drops to 10.5 when I hit the starter button. Is this an acceptable range? For what it's worth I've put new sparkplugs in, there's gas in the tank, it's not the side stand/clutch switch, and it's only been sitting for a month.

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
I thought 12.6 was acceptable as a resting charge? What should it be when I hit the starter? 12 still?

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
Alright this is driving me crazy. Can't get my bike started. Battery is ok (took it to advance and it tested fine). I can get a spark, fuel pump sounds like it's working, it's cranking so it's not a side stand/clutch sensor or something and it's only been like 2 weeks since it ran. Only thing I can think of that I messed with was when I rerouted the throttle cables for new handlebars. Am I missing something stupidly simple here?

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009

EX250 Type R posted:

what make/model/year bike

my advice for these situations is: starting fluid. Hit it with the ether and see what the results are.

07 sv650

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

That's a shame, if it had been a GSXR, then your username would have delivered in this situation.

Try spraying some flammable poo poo in the intake while cranking to see if it's a fuel issue?

No luck there

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
If the kill switch was on it wouldn't be cranking at all. Same with clutch or kick stand sensor. That's why this is frustrating!

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009

Sagebrush posted:

Many (most?) bikes will still crank with the kill switch off. Mine certainly does. It just disables the ignition system.

Are you sure the spark is good and strong? How did you test it? You can verify that it's strong enough by pouring some gasoline in a bucket, putting the spark plug down in there on its lead, and cranking the motor for a while. If it blows up, you're good to go.

Took one plug and started it with it grounded against the engine. Nice blue spark and a little flame out of the hole, I presume from the others

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
I have battery readings of 12.3v off, 10v with lights on, 14.3 at idle and 14.3 @ 2-3k. Is my battery probably on its way out? Last time I rode it was Thursday and I had to bump start it (probably my answer there) but it fired right up today which was a little surprising.

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
So Im checking my valves on my sv (20k miles). Im not quite sure if Im doing it right. It looks like all my intake valves are good. Spec is .1-.2
Front r: .1
Front l: .12
Rear r: .1
Rear l: .12

Weird part is it seems like every exhaust valve is .15. Spec is .2-.3 so it seems odd that they'd all be off that much. Any chance I'm measuring wrong or something? Seems hard to mess up but I've e never done engine stuff before.

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
Fair enough. I think I've seen so many examples of sv's making it to like 50k without adjusting i wasn't expecting mine to really need it. Ill have to look into the process a little more, getting all the way in there might be outside of my comfort zone.

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009

XYLOPAGUS posted:

Finally found a used Sargent seat for the SV650

I actually just got one for my sv too. It definitely is taller but I'm not sliding around too much, just sitting back a little farther away from the tank. Mine seems more comfortable than stock but I'm not as locked in. Like the other guy said, I have some tank grips that I think will help. Does yours seem heavily used? Maybe it's broken in weirdly

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
I'm having an annoying issue with my 07 sv650 not starting right. For example, the bike started this morning and I rode it for an hour, went to restart it and got nothing. Everything seems fine but when you hit the starter the lights just headlight dims and that's it. I'm still able to bump start it though. When this happened the first few times I figured it was the battery since it was measuring on the low end of what's good. Got a new battery and now it's still happening. New battery voltage seems fine too

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009

moxieman posted:

Just did chain + sprockets on my FZ6 at 29,000 miles. It was my first time doing it, and also I believe the first time it was ever done on the bike. I torqued everything per the manual and set the slack to the loose end of spec. It feels markedly smoother.

I can hear a faint gear whine that I did not notice before, is that just what a new chain + front sprocket sounds like without 3 inches of old grease packed inside the sprocket cover?

I had something similar when I did my sv650 front sprocket. Turns out the OEM ones have a small piece of rubber and aftermarket ones don't so there's a little whine at speed. Haven't noticed any issues after 10k miles so far. Not sure if this is the case with the fz6!

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009
I picked up a used drz the other day and managed to almost immediately flood it with gas. I’m assuming because I didn’t have the manual petcock lined up right after I parked it. I was planning on changing the oil since it smells like gas now and getting a new air filter since that got soaked. Is there anything in the carb that I should look at? Anything somewhere else?

I hope that being a bit more careful turning the petcock off will prevent this from happening again because man, what a pain.

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009

cursedshitbox posted:

Float valve. Those can leak and fill the crankcase with fuel.

Slavvy posted:

Yeah leaving the tap on by itself shouldn't immediately cause that, it's likely got a tired or sticky float valve

Ok that makes sense. Time to learn how to take apart a carburetor.

hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009

Slavvy posted:

Yeah leaving the tap on by itself shouldn't immediately cause that, it's likely got a tired or sticky float valve

Finally got around to opening up my carb and I'm not seeing anything immediately problematic. I have the parts so I can replace the float valve anyway but is there something obvious that I'm missing that would point to the problem? Seems pretty clean in there.

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hit the bricks pal!
Jan 12, 2009

Slavvy posted:

It might be that the oring on the valve seat isn't really fully sealing anymore, it looks pretty square in that pic

I replaced it and got everything back together. Definitely don't like the oil change process compared to my SV...
Seemed to run ok once it started. Hopefully it won't have any more issues right away so I can stop thinking I should have got a KLX instead!

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