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The Wonder Weapon posted:Mine is On, Off, and Res. So if I put it to On or Res and disconnect the tank, there won't be some tube pouring gas everywhere? No. If it's got an OFF, it's most likely not a vacuum operated petcock and you should have it at OFF when you disconnect it.
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May 19, 2010 23:44
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Test drove a Honda VF750S today, I believe it was called V45 Sabre in the States. 1983 year, it looked good, started fine and idled great. When I took off though, it felt weird right from the start. The bike felt like it wanted to fall into the corners at low speed left-handers, and when I went through a very mild, downward right hand turn with some uneven asphalt at maybe 35 mph, I got crazy headshake out of nowhere. Never having experienced headshake before, I pulled in the clutch and coasted to a stop before I decided to turn around and go back to the waiting seller. He lives just a hundred meters from me, and I've seen him use the bike to go to work once a week or so, making me believe him when he says he has never had any problems with shaking, since if my bike shook like that I wouldn't want ride it anywhere. Can the fact that I'm maybe 60 lb lighter than him do something to make the bike more prone to headshake? Any chance of a connection between the headshake and that feeling that the bike wanted to fall to the left? He renovated the front calipers some time ago, if he removed the front wheel while doing that, could he have put it back wrong somehow?
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Jun 19, 2010 20:16
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Just to be sure, the big black nob on the left side of the bike beneath the float bowl of the outmost carb, is my idle adjuster. Right? Both Clymer and Haynes thinks my bike will explode if I don't leave the adjusting to someone with an exhaust gas analyzer, and accordingly they won't say a word about how you do it, which way to turn it or what the correct rpm is. Dicks.
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Jul 5, 2010 22:21
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Yes it is. Get the engine warmed up and set it to ~1250rpm. Thanks! 
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Jul 7, 2010 22:08
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Phat_Albert posted:Is there a reason I shouldnt do the CL's? Swedish Motorrad tested pads in 2008, and the only exceptional thing about CL was that they gave much higher wear on the disc than the other brands in the test. Otherwise they where average in every aspect. Brembo and Lucas where the test winners, which really wasn't a surprise, but the surprise was that they weren't any more expensive than the rest.
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Mar 22, 2011 02:09
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obso, that sounds somewhat like a bike a friend of mine inherited, especially with the backfiring at high RPM, which was later diagnosed as a failing CDI box.
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Apr 2, 2011 18:21
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Right, so I was having some strange behaviour from the Zuk last year. Time for some nice old carburettor cleaning, I thought. First problem (only as of now, but I'm sure there will be more): the pilot screws on the two inner carb are stuck. Seized like someone dipped them good in super glue before putting them in. The outer two where just like they should be, and did not give me any trouble whatsoever, but these two... The heads are starting to strip and they just will not budge. Suggestions? The two that didn't give me any trouble where 1,25 turns out. According to the manual, they're supposed to be 1,8 to 1,9 turns out.
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May 12, 2011 02:44
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Backov posted:Ok, so I've had my Dnepr out a few times now, and of course it still has issues. Difficulty finding neutral, try tightening the clutch adjustment just a little bit. And as for the "rev limit", you say that Backov posted:It's almost like after it hits that RPM it shifts into neutral. Do you mean that it starts revving to the moon, because if so that sounds like its jumping out of gear, could be worn or bent shifter forks, or worn dogs or dog holes.
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May 16, 2011 00:30
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I'm thinking about doing a small fly & buy (about 420 miles from home). How do people bring the gear? ATGATT on the plane, tell everyone you are serious about safety? A bag large enough for all the gear seems like it would be uncomfortable to ride with. The bike in question is a 2003 SV1000S. Anyone have anything specific to say about those, good or bad?
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Jun 8, 2011 22:31
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Z3n posted:I wouldn't buy an SV1000S without having the chance to ride one first, if you know what you're getting, great. All of the issues with that bike are problems of personal taste, they're pretty solid mechanically. Not quite sure I understand you correctly. You mean that the bike is solid mechanically, but that the SV1000 is a bike that has odd ergonomics or something? Thanks for the replies.
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Jun 8, 2011 22:39
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Alright, thanks. I must admit I thought the 1000 and the 650 (which I have ridden a few times) where similar in that respect. I guess I'll just have to find one close by and try.
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Jun 8, 2011 22:48
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Frankston posted:There's a loud clicking noise when I press the starter button coming from somewhere around the seat. As in a single *click*, or a rapid *clickclickclickclick*?
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Jul 30, 2011 08:17
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Rearsets made out of glass fiber seems like a good idea! 
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Dec 17, 2011 19:57
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How critical is switching to a manual CCT and doing the countershaft loctite fix on a DRZ? Will my bike explode next week if I don't do them, or is it just "some bikes" that have problem with these?
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Dec 20, 2011 21:31
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Z3n, it seems your PM inbox is full.
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Dec 20, 2011 23:57
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Soooo. Thumpertalks "What every DRZ Needs; Protection, Maintenance, and Preventive fixes." contains, among other things, this list:quote:Preventative maintenance fixes: Can I do all these in one sitting? Which order should I do them in? Don't want to do one and put high strength threadlocker on stuff only to discover I have to take it apart again...
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Mar 3, 2012 05:54
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Marv Hushman posted:Alright. So I'm not the only who uses this winterization process. To wit: hey, looks like winter's here. Bye! Works for me. I'm sure it's gonna come bite me in the rear end because I type this, but my winter prep consists of; 1. Fill tank full (with petrol). 2. Put bike in the back of the garage. Done!
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Mar 15, 2012 00:18
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I want to ape hanger out a Moped!   Bonus; apes on a Bandit! 
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Mar 25, 2012 19:56
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internet inc posted:EDIT: How hot to pipes get? Say, close to the engine? Gonna depend on a lot of things really, but for example I know I've seen EGT values for an Yamaha R6 being about 850 degrees Celsius at WOT, about 350-450C at idle, measured about 50mm from the head/exhaust mating surface.
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May 12, 2012 03:24
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The only explanation for the word "squid" I've heard is that it's an acronym for "Stupid Quick Underdressed Imminently Dead". Usually young males with next to no protective gear, almost always going recklessly fast and doing stupid poo poo. Basically racers without racing skills. And on public roads. efb
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May 23, 2012 01:06
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2003 SV650. My shifter has gotten into the annoying habit of sticking on upshifts sometimes. I never notice this until Im trying to shift up the next time, at which point I can't, and have to let out the clutch to try again. Remove shifter and lube axle with grease, I guess? At least I *hope* it's the shifter sticking, or else something inside the gearbox is giving me trouble and I wouldn't like that.
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Jun 12, 2012 22:07
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I *think* its sticking in the upshift position, and therefor nothing happens when I try to shift. But since I'd rather not look down at my shifter while riding, Im not sure. It feels like as if I have sixth gear engaged already (I am unable to move the shifter upwards with my foot, it feels solid). And then if I release the clutch and try again, it works. I havent tried upshifting several times when it happens to get it to spring down or something, thats why Im not 100% sure its actually sticking and not the gearbox or shifter linkage thats borked.
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Jun 13, 2012 01:07
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Sagebrush posted:I agree -- those things are satan's work. Even the 12-point box-end wrenches kind of suck for anything where more than a little torque is involved. I think I've removed more skin from my knuckles than I have nuts from studs using 12-points. I got told plenty of times back in school that since all the torque is at the corners, it doesn't actually make a difference if you use a 6 or 12 point socket, they're both as likely to round a bolt head. Fake edit: Wikipedia seems to back me up, fwiw. "A common misconception is that a 12-point socket is more likely to round off the corners of a nut or bolt than a 6-point socket. In fact, since the torque is applied at the corners of the fastener, the two sockets have the same number of contact points, apply the same amount of torque, and one is no more likely to round off the corners than another."
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Jun 15, 2012 21:08
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But if the friend actually *lives* in Japan, I'd hope he's already got JIS bits and stuff? Japanese Industrial Standards and all that.
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Jun 19, 2012 17:01
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Brake dust is really bad for your respiratory system even if there's no asbetos in it. Wear a protective mask. And no, asbestos is not absorbed through the skin, so merely touching isn't dangerous to your health. However, if you get it on your skin or clothing, the fibers may become airborne later and get in your lungs. There's a very good reason that poo poo is banned in civilized countries.
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Jun 22, 2012 02:25
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Best option for glasses: Laser surgery Seconded. LASIK is where it's at. I've never regretted it for a second. Sure, Sally can wait (she knows its too late), but I say just do it. My eyes have no problem with fogging.
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Jul 13, 2012 20:33
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Lithium-ion supremacy. 
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Jul 26, 2012 06:29
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I changed from alu rockers to steel ones on my Chrysler small block because the alu rockers were bottoming out against the retainers. The steel rockers are much slimmer than the alu ones, so I thought I'd weigh them just for fun. 8 grams. That's how much lighter an alu rocker was on account of it having to be much beefier. I wonder if anyone has ever bothered to check if the alu sprockets actually weigh less.
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Aug 31, 2012 21:00
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Nah.
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Oct 1, 2012 16:19
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I don't even know what the hell this is supposed to be good for.
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Oct 1, 2012 17:11
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Single front disc, 2-cyl inline engine. Seems like a 2008-up F650GS with loads and loads of extra poo poo to me.
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Jan 8, 2013 22:59
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Sooo... I turn 30 this year, and I'm thinking about giving myself a present. A couple of presents. I've already bought myself a Nikon D7000 by accident. Whatever. I'm thinking   BRAND NEW BIKE . Yes, I know more about depreciation than I would like. My two main contenders are: The new Triumph Street Triple R.  Or MV Agusta Brutale 675.  I haven't had any chance of riding either yet, since this is what it looks like here right now, but in true armchair general fashion I've started jerking off to specs and different colours. Standard on the Brutale are four different maps for the injection and a traction control with eight different settings. All swedish imports seem to come with EAS (quickshift) as well. Brakes are Brembos front and back, Marzocchi 43mm front and Sachs rear suspension. Swedish price is 103900 SEK(≈15000 USD). Street Triple R comes with... uh. Wheels? Well, less bling than the Brutale anyway, although if I buy I'm gonna get it with ABS and a plug-n-play quickshift available from Triumph right from the get-go. Nissin front, Brembo rear brakes. Kayaba 41mm forks and Kayaba rear shock. Price 99990 SEK (≈14500 USD). Wet weight is 182kg (400lbs) for the Triumph and 179kg (395lbs) for the MV. Power/torque is 106hp@11850/68Nm(50ftlbs)@9750 for the Triumph and 108@12500/65(48)@12000 for the MV. Rake/trail is 23.4deg/95mm on the Triumph and 24/95 for the MV. Numbers-wise it's pretty much same same, and I could poo poo out these numbers all day long since I almost know them all by heart now. I really want the Brutale. WANTWANTWANTNEEDNEED. But. The MV is not available with ABS, something I really feel can save my bacon some day. And I have no idea at all what to expect, quality-wise, from MV. They are really rare here in Sweden (or anywhere, I imagine) and consequently, there are four dealers total in Sweden for them, the closest being 150km from where I live. I have two Triumph dealerships closer than 100kms. The aftermarket for the Triumph is huge (at least for the old model), for the MV it's less than impressive. Am I supposed to make the sensible choice here? What is the sensible choice? Help me CA, you're my only hope. 
Nidhg00670000 fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Jan 11, 2013 |
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Jan 11, 2013 01:27
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Snowdens Secret posted:The ST3R is kind of surprising in how down-spec it is for an R, but in the States it's cheap - $1600 less than the base Daytona with essentially the same kit and thousands less than the Daytona R with Ohlins. It's a first year bike so demand will be higher but you're more likely to be able to play the dealers and get a better real world deal than I think you would with MV. I do think it's got a touch too much plastic, though. The outgoing ST3/ST3R are cruder bikes but cleaner looking and supposedly wilder, and if you find a last year's model (still new) the money you save might just pay for tasty Ohlins/Brembo. I'd think about that option. Yeah, the old ST3R can be had for 84900 SEK (≈12000 USD) from the few dealers that still have one. If anyone still has one when it's time, I'll at the very least go look at one. No ABS on the old model though.  The Duc SF 848 is at least 15kg (30lbs) heavier than the ST3, and it starts around 133000 SEK (19000 USD). Another bike that also can't be had with that ABS-thingy. What Aprilias do you have in mind? The price on the Touno (156000 SEK, 22000 USD) puts it way above the others. The reason all the prices in USD are so high (besides the fact that bikes are more expensive here) is that the USD is at it's lowest for 18 months against the SEK right now, and it isn't far off from lowest ever. So I'm just putting it in there as a way for others to compare them.Ola posted:ABS would be a tipping point for me, very strange that MV Agusta haven't included it. But it outsexes the Street Triple by a very wide margin. Yeah, I'd really like my new bike to have ABS. I mean, it still is essential to know proper braking, but knowing that you can just squeeze that handle as hard and fast as you want if need be when it's wet outside... People posted:At a $500 US difference, buy the drat MV. Well, most people here seem to know what I should get. Thanks for the input so far, everyone.
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Jan 11, 2013 20:30
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epalm posted:Why not have one brake lever than distributes braking power to the wheels in that ratio? It's not unheard of.
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Jan 22, 2013 03:29
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It's me. I'm the goon in the well. Earlier in the thread I was talking about getting a brand new bike, and my two main contenders were the new Triumph Street Triple R or the MV Agusta Brutale 675. After using my best puppy-eyed expression, I got to sit on the Brutale at the Stockholm Bike Show (they had "DONT SIT ON THE BIKE" signs on the MVs), and jesus christ on a crutch that bike is not made for my goony body. I could feel right away that it wasn't to be. So what did I do? I sulked and moped for a while. And on friday I'm probably gonna make a down payment on this.   Brand new 690 SMC R. The well, it's calling me...
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Jan 29, 2013 18:13
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So there, down payment made. Now I just have to wait for the snow to go away so I can sell off my other three bikes. Z3n posted:Oh poo poo is that the model with the true 690cc engine? Oh yeah. Probably wont feel too much difference from the DRZ though, right? Spiffness posted:Wonderful. I can't wait till it comes state side so I can do the same. Post everything. Thanks, I'll make sure to fashion my license plate really securely.
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Jan 31, 2013 22:14
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Or the scales beneath the jaws are in correct, logical and easy to use millimetres on one instead of some science hating ongo-bongo fractions. Like so.
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Feb 4, 2013 12:57
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KTM's own badly translated despcription of the APTC slipper clutch.quote:This anti-hopping clutch is a must for any ambitious rider.
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Feb 5, 2013 19:11
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I've got three bikes to sell to finance my new bike, so I'm starting to wonder about the best time to start putting up ads. We've had some days with (for the season) great weather now. Sunny, around +5 celsius. Most of the larger streets are free of snow and with the sand mostly gone it is quite rideable now, but as soon as you get into residental area with smaller streets its still pretty rough riding. A very uneven surface with snow and ice that has melted in spots, giving you "potholes" in the ice that shake you around pretty good even in a car. Should I wait for it to get warmer and melt some more, or maybe put up the ads now and hope that the last few days of "spring" has made people start looking for bikes again?
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Mar 9, 2013 13:04
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 21:28 |
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186 cm (6'1") here too. When I have both a tank bag and a tail bag on the bike, I use the John Cleese-technique. Sometimes I even skip the finger.
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Mar 22, 2013 00:48
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