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RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

My dad is giving me his 2003 Buell Blast. I learned to ride when I was still in highschool and lived in a small town. Now I live in Boston and I haven't ridden since a few years before I moved here.

I now live in a Boston apartment with no off-street parking. Should I be worried about theft if I park it on the street in front of my apartment?

Are locks worth it for such a light bike? Is an alarm/tracker worth it for such a cheap bike?

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RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

My downstairs neighbor has a PT Cruiser that gets parked out front in various states of repair, and my neighbor across the street drives a VW Beetle.

The Buell isn't even the second least desirable vehicle on the street, and it's a short street.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

BlackMK4 posted:

I pay something retarded like $1200 for state minimums (liability only) on a GSXR750... don't even get me started.

What the hell? State minimum liability on that Buell I was asking about a few pages back is costing me $95 per year.

Is that just because "lol who can do damage with a Buell" or is that the difference between our two states and driving records?

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Just curious, not planning on anything here, but: How hard is it to title a bike bought on craigslist with no title, in whatever state is the easiest to get it titled?

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Lets get clear on what we're talking about here. Are we talking about a bike where the title is legitimately lost (i.e. old barn finds), or are we talking about stolen poo poo? Its usually easy to tell the difference.

If its the former, you can get titles easily and legally, but yeah, in general don't buy stolen poo poo.

Old barn poo poo, for sure. I've dealt with craigslist and stolen bicycle bullshit already, I'm familiar with not buying stolen bikes, these ones just have motors. Either way, Don't buy stolen bikes.

I've seen a few barn bike ads on my local craigslist in the past couple months, and while none of them were a bike I'd want to ride, the asking prices were so low it got me thinking about what I'd do if I ever did find a bike I'd want to ride in a barn with no title.

Assuming, also, that it's worth the restoration from barn condition.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Does it kinda sound like chirping the tires a bit, except that doesn't make sense because you're clearly not peeling out?

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Yeah, mine does that, too. I don't know, either.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Yeah, same. Seriously, you just have to carry a goddamn breathalyzer on you?

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

I'm putting a new cam chain and tensioner in a 1997 Suzuki Savage 650 that was gifted to me from a storage unit.

I have a new tensioner, and this or this look like the right cam chain.

But when I look to buy a new gasket, there seem to be multiple models, and I don't know which is correct.


This seems to list four different complete gasket sets and four different clutch cover gaskets:
http://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d32f52f8700232d0b3d7d4/gasket-set

While this lists only one of each:
http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1997-suzuki-savage-650-ls650p/o/m147792#sch244393

How do I figure out which gasket is correct?

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

A MIRACLE posted:

After I start it and kick it down to first gear, the bike sort of tries to lurch forward a bit. This is with the clutch level fully depressed. Not enough to really move me (even without brakes applied) but I was wondering if the clutch cable needs to be adjusted, like it seems like it might not be fully separated from the engine or something. Does it need to be adjusted?

This is normal. When you release the clutch, a spring presses the clutch plates together. When you pull the clutch, it simply relieves that spring pressure but doesn't actually pull the plates back apart. The plates stick together a little bit, and the lurching is from a little bit of friction/sticktion as the plates unstick and separate slightly.

A MIRACLE posted:

When I put the bike in steering lock mode and remove the key, the rear light comes on. No other lights are on though. Is this an electrical issue that can be remedied easily? I don't want to run the battery down just because I have the steering lock on

I'm not sure here but my bike has four key positions, On, Off, Lock, and Park. Park leaves the lights on. I often accidentally overshoot Lock and turn the key all the way to Park when I'm leaving the bike. Maybe that's what's going on?

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

There's a Fastenal near me, they're pretty great. Look for dedicated fastener supply stores?

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

I have a plain full face helmet and I just put my iPhone earbuds in a little extra snug and then pull outward on the ends of the chinstrap as I put the helmet on to widen it a little. The earbuds stay in fine that way.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

LEDs on the wheels sound neat, I like the way they look when spinning. Are those cheap valve stem cap lights illegal in most of the US, too?

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Yeah those valve stem lights are like a half gram of plastic, a button battery, an LED, and a spring for a "vibration switch." They're dead simple so they're stupid cheap.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Seen it in person. Even at night with no streetlights, the lines it projects onto black pavement are visible from about 8 feet away, tops.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

I bought a KLR, 2001, 5000 miles on it. It has clearly sat for a while with some minor riding maybe once every few years but no maintenance whatsoever in that time. And full of 87 octane 10% ethanol. Just a full goddamn tank of it.

I've changed the oil and filter, coolant rinsed and refilled, seafoamed the carb and tank, rebuilt the vacuum petcock diaphragm (that was a weird one to diagnose), de-shitted the chain and sprockets, installed braided steel brake lines, new brake pads and brake fluid flush front and back, removed the airbox snorkel thing, new clutch lever, full tank of no-ethanol gasoline, and I threw a thermobob on there because I'm drinking that kool aid.

It's been a good couple of weekends.

Question: While cleaning and flushing the cooling system, I discovered the coolant overflow reservoir outlet was melted shut. What caused that kind of heat, and will it happen again? The bike runs great afaict, and it doesn't seem to be melting now, so what did this PO do?

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Yeah, it's like right next to the exhaust, too. See here, it's the bottom left corner of the white tank:

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

I just got done doing the low-mileage-sat-for-a-while thing with my KLR.

It's a 2001, I bought it with 4800 miles. The owner rode it around offroad for 3 years then moved to the city and it sat. 100% stock, very little recent maintenance, ran like poo poo but it was all there and it was all reasonably clean and in great condition.

Everything needed work, in sequence. It was never on the road for more than a couple of days before something else would go off.

It was fun, though. I knew what I was getting into when I met the guy. I don't know how this guy ended up owning a KLR and not a BMW.

I've got it running great, and now I know firsthand that it's up to date on all its maintenance and I'm familiar with doing all of it myself.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

When I got my driver's learner permit and motorcycle learner permit at age 16 in NY, they issued me 2 cards, one with each endorsement.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

the bell rogue looks dumb and tryhard as poo poo

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

clutchpuck posted:

It's especially silly when everything to do with motorcycling involves at least some effort toward looking cool; tricolore livery, kanji letters, muffler design, engine casings, turn signals... everything.

I also find these things dumb though.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Just do hydrolysis, it's really not hard and it reduces 100% of the rust to a lower oxidation state. I've done it twice now. A battery charger, a Rubbermaid bin, an iron rod, and some washing soda is all you need, and when you're done it rinses clean with plain water.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Where did he even get the idea that this is good for the bike?

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

astrollinthepork posted:

Alternatively, place your balls in a hydraulic press and apply pressure.

I sold the Buell Blast last weekend. I think I'd rather have the hydraulic press experience next time.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

I'd like a headset but I don't know what's on the market. What I think I want is just a quality mic that bluetooths or mic-jacks to my phone. I'll let my phone handle the intercom and music functions, so most of the Sena models are more than I need.

I just want a headset with a quality mic and speakers that links to my phone. What's that cost?

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

I took my KLR on the highway for about 10 miles at 75mph (16t front sprocket makes that ~4500rpm). After I got off the highway onto city streets I noticed the temperature gauge was all the way up in the red. For another 3 miles through city traffic and lights, it fluctuated from almost max temp to max temp.

I parked it for 4 hours, did my business in the city, then rode the same route home with the temp gauge right in the middle of the range, even after getting off the highway and slowing down on the local streets near home. The coolant level looks fine hot and cold.

Did it just cough an air bubble and have bad coolant flow or something? Seems fine now, but why was it so hot earlier?

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

TheNothingNew posted:

even after a quart's worth of bleeding.

Really? That sounds like a shitload, I bleed my brakes and they come out perfect after like 2-4 ounces.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

Would the bubbles travel to the top better if the whole system is under pressure, is that the idea? That's a new one to me.

High pressure makes the individual bubbles a lot smaller. My assumption is that this makes them less likely to "adhere" to the inside of the system for lack of sufficient surface area, and will float to the top easier as they pass out of the brake cylinder, through the banjo bolts and lines without sticking.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Why did the lever end nub on my KLR's clutch cable break off?

I can't see anything that was wrong with the lever or housing or anything else, nothing looks like it was bent or kinked at a funny angle when I installed it, but it broke while riding. I've ordered another, and replacement is simple enough, but how do I make sure this doesn't happen again? Is this just bad luck and some cables break sometimes?

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Wait I missed lithium chat, why aren't lithium batteries great? I've had two for a year and so far I've had nothing but success despite abusing them both horribly and doing zero maintenance/charging on them.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

builds character posted:

if you have access to a nice toasty garage where you can hook up a tender.

I don't, I have to drag the tender and an extension cord out from my apartment and I can't leave it overnight.

But apparently my lithium batteries either all have excellent smartchip protection or are of superior construction because I have:

- Left the lights on for eight hours, all electrics were dead, charged it for twenty minutes and it was symptom-free. Rode for 15 minutes and parked it with no further charging, continued to ride all summer with no further charging.

- Put the little KLR-sized lithium battery in the Concours when the Concours' giant lead battery died and it ran better than when the lead battery was working.

- Hooked a new Concours-sized lithium battery up backwards in the bike, blowing the main fuse, and ALSO hooked the lithium battery up to the charger backwards at 10 Amps. Corrected polarities, replaced the fuse, instantly symptom-free.

The fiery mode of failure isn't something I considered, but also not something I think is true of modern LiFePO cells?

Either way, for the number of times my behaviour would have surely killed a lead battery, the lithium cells have paid for themselves.

RadioPassive fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Apr 28, 2017

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Taking apart a 1987 Concours with 23k miles on it. So far the main needles were shimmed with four washers each and the air filter was shredded and full of mouse nesting.

Question, though: I'm looking into the intakes and I see the valves are caked in black crud. Should I attempt to clean them, and is it worth removing the head to do so?

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Slavvy posted:

Not at this point. Priorities first, I'm assuming the bike doesn't run/runs like dog balls.

Uhhh actually somehow it ran pretty okay. It's a mess inside and out, but it performs fine. Took it for a couple hundred mile cruise a few weeks ago. I just finished the carb clean and air filter replacement. Next weekend I'm reinstalling the carbs and airbox, doing a valve adjustment, coolant flush, oil and filter, and brake lines.

Slavvy posted:

there's a good chance the valve seals are rooted

I don't know what rooted means.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

rip it some and cut it some and see if the ripped edges look like the cut edges

thats how they do it on csi try it

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

I loving love my KLR though. If you want to get around a farm and also do 80 on the highway, I can see it being great.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

My KLR has a three way switch that needs to be manually centered to turn the signals off.

It's fairly easy to use your thumb and feel that the edge of the switch is flush with its housing to confirm the signal is off.

But yes, press-to-cancel is nicer.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Uh I'm in America and I step off the bike when pulled over.

Bike off, key in so the signal stays on, step off while removing gear (helmet/gloves/maybe jacket if it's hot).

With cars or bikes I never reach for my wallet or registration until asked, and it's pretty clear that I'm just hopping off the bike and awkwardly futzing with my helmet strap rather than reaching for my chin holstered american handgun.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

NAPA is a fairly decent American brand. I'd put them a step above autozone and advance auto parts.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012


I really want to do this to my KLR some day. Has anyone explained their build in english? The German guy's looks really nice but I wish I understood his description. Seems like an easy way to gently caress up a frame if you make it wrong.

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RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

These work great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RC4OEO0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's a little plastic tube down the middle of them that contains the speaker hardware. It makes the foam tips too big around to crush and insert properly, but the rubber tips work great. Excellent noise dampening and the music sounds fine.

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