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What is a good foam I can shape and then lay fiberglass over? I want to make a custom tail section, but I don't want my foam disintegrating when I put resin on it.
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Oct 5, 2008 04:55
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I'm doing it too  Poor little 2 stroke. I hardly knew ye. Don't worry baby, I'll get you a title next spring and we'll have wonderful days in the
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Oct 6, 2008 15:47
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See if you can't find a two stroke to ride on, if that little amount of engine braking bothers you, think about what an open throttle would feel like. That is the only thing that still bothers me about 2 strokes.
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Oct 29, 2008 22:53
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I own a 2006 Suzuki SV650S that I'm breaking down for winter storage. I've taking it all apart as I've got some upgrades to put on it(Gixxer rear Shock, power commander, single headlight/fairing delete). Anway I took the tank off, put it up on rearstands, turned the kill switch off and cranked the starter for about 3 seconds to get some oil on the cylinder walls. I then pulled the top of my air box off and pulled the filter and crankcase breather filter. As soon as I pulled the filter I noticed some white frothy poo poo on the bottom of the crankcase breather filter. I checked my coolant and it's green as green can be, I had to stop myself from drinking it it looked so good. I have yet to drain the oil for the winter, I'll do that tomorrow I think, but could cranking the engine with no gas cause some froth into the breather? I'm nervous kids
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Oct 31, 2008 18:20
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Bam. That's exactly it. It's been about 20-30 degrees and I have a 5 mile commute never about 50 mph.
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Nov 1, 2008 14:43
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How do I store carburetors? I took the two off my RD while I decide how to build it and they are going to sit for about 6 months unused. What steps can I take to make sure they weather the winter fine? I have the same question for a gas tank and a 2 stroke oil reservoir. I have less trepidation towards the res since it has oil coating the inside, but what about storing a tank not on the bike that I plan on sanding and painting?
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Nov 5, 2008 23:46
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Nerobro posted:As for the gas tank. There's nothing better at keeping the inside of a gas tank fresh, than gasoline vapor. If that's out of the question, Fog the inside of the tank with WD-40 and swish it around. Cap the tank, and consider it fine for the winter. How dangerous is it to sand and paint with gas vapors in the tank? I like my gas tanks not kaboomed.
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Nov 6, 2008 16:34
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Two stroke question. I've got a bug in my rear end about taking apart my RD. It's pretty much boxes of parts right now but I still have the engine in the frame. I'll probably pull that soon enough. Anyway, I pulled the jugs and heads off to check the pistons which look ok, the right one looks nice, the left is a little charred on the sides, but anyway, while I had the cylinders off I noticed my crank was in a pool of gas. Like literally sitting in a puddle gas up to the top of the crank. This isn't normal right? It's supposed to be a air/gas mixture. Maybe this is why it was running so rich. How do I go about draining this? Thanks.
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Nov 6, 2008 22:36
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I pay $326 a year on a 2006 SV650S. This is for full coverage with high deductibles. I live in a college town in Wisconsin and I'm 23 with a pretty lovely driving record. Edit: I got through Foremost.
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Nov 17, 2008 16:25
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Just ride the fucker down.
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Nov 20, 2008 03:50
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I have had backfires on decel on my 2006 SV650s. I have a full yosh and a properly programmed Power commander. I get a bit of burble and my friend has mentioned I've shot flames on decel from now and then. Wouldn't flames say rich? Other than being loving cool, what do I have to worry with flames?
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Dec 4, 2008 02:07
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Sans packing just makes it louder right? So packing goes and it gets louder and I'll just slip the silencer in. No harm no foul.
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Dec 4, 2008 02:11
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2008 KTM 690 SMC with 635 miles never down flawless for $6k flat. Should I do it? I think so, help me make a bad decision.
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Jul 3, 2009 01:10
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Cross posted from the SV650 thread. Hey guys, I have a 2006 SV650S with a Full Yosh and a PCIII with about 6500 miles. Recently I synced my throttle bodies and changed my oil. I drove the bike home that day and when I went to start it the next day it had a hell of a time idling and threw me the FI code. I took it back apart and resynced the TBs/made sure everything was tight and I got the light to go away. It still idles like crap though, and seems to be running rich. When I pulled the plugs they looked a little wet. I've resynced the bike twice more now and I'm still having an erratic idle. It will idle at about 1.2-1.3k on start up and then once it gets warm it will idle at about 1.5k. I've also had it hang on idle, where if I'm moving under power and then clutch in it will hang at 2k for about five seconds before dropping back to about 1.5k. I've had the PCIII on it for quite a while and it has always seemed fine. My options right now are the sync tool is bad and the TBs are not actually synced, something happened with my PCIII map, or something else. Any insight would be great. Thanks!
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Jul 18, 2009 19:49
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Easier if I still had the manual. It's take off side covers/seat/prop tank/remove airbox then try to remember what goes where. edit:found an online manual, i'll try that now. POWA COMMANDUH disconnected, same symptoms. TheFonz fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Jul 18, 2009 |
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Jul 18, 2009 20:40
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Z3n posted:Sounds like the TBs still aren't done right. As my mechanic friend says, "If it's broke, what was the last thing you fixed?" Yea, I ordered a new Carb sync tool.
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Jul 21, 2009 00:31
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What the gently caress. So I got a Motion Pro Carb sync tool. One of the liquid kinds, and I hooked it up right and the bike is trying drat hard to suck the fluid right into it. Is there somewhere that lists the vacuum made by an '06 SV650? It says not to use if it makes more than 40cm hg or 7.7psi of vacuum. Does the SV really make that much? Could I have cut my tubes to short? Does that affect things? TheFonz fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Jul 21, 2009 |
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Jul 21, 2009 23:02
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Bucephalus posted:Did you install the flow restrictors? Anything lighter than mercury or more viscous than gear oil will get sucked out if run unrestricted. Yea, they have the flow restrictors in them that the tool came with but it is the blue poo poo that the new stuff has. I reread the directions and it says to cut the tube into 4 equal lengths. This would have left me with like 4 five ft. lengths. I cut before I read and now I have 8 2.5ft lengths cause I was thinking ok spares. Will makeing the hoses twice as long help me out? Vacuum hose is cheap.
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Jul 22, 2009 05:05
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8ender posted:Is it pulling the fluid out of one particular line or all of them at once? Well, I have the line split with their little bard it comes with to sync the gauge itself. 1 hose comes from cyl 1 and goes into this little plastic splitter guy. Then 3 of the ends are capped and two go to gauge 1 and 2. Both of these are getting pulled. Also, yes this is at idle, like 1500 rpm.
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Jul 22, 2009 16:04
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8ender posted:Is Cylinder 2 hooked up somewhere in this as well? No, I have to make sure the gauge is correct off the first cyl. Calibrating the gauge, and I'm doing it right, I just am wondering if short hoses could cause this effect?
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Jul 22, 2009 20:27
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It tells me to calibrate it in the directions. I hook them both up to one cylinder with the splitter and then turn the little screws to make sure the fluid levels match up with each other. I am not doing it to a line on the tool, just to the point where they are level when reading the same TB. That way I know the two parts are showing the same level for the same TB. The 2nd TB is still plugged with the vacuum cap like it is supposed to be when riding. It is this: http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=&catId=&productId=p282760&leafCatId=&mmyId= Am I making sense?
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Jul 24, 2009 01:14
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I'm sure it has been asked before but I need a bike lock. I'm parking my bike overnight in Chicago(retardededededed) and want to buy at least a little piece of mind. I'm looking at something sub $100, my bike is only a 2006 SV650S, so I'd be sad, but not devastated if it was stolen. Also, my buddy has a proximity alarm on his GIXXXXXER and I'm not looking to go that crazy. TheFonz fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Aug 19, 2011 |
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Aug 19, 2011 01:56
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TheFonz posted:I'm sure it has been asked before but I need a bike lock. I'm parking my bike overnight in Chicago and want to buy at least a little piece of mind. I'm looking at something sub $100, my bike is only a 2006 SV650S, so I'd be sad, but not devastated if it was stolen. Anyone?
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Aug 23, 2011 04:57
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I already have comprehensive, and I'm Ork ugly, so I think we're good.
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Aug 23, 2011 15:29
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Real stupid question incoming. Looking into enduros and prices for them seem to be rather high in my area. What's the consensus of converting something like a CRF450/250R or RM450/250 to be street legal. Minnesota is an honor system with no inspection. Just $10 and attest you have a front light, a plate light and a horn. I've see stators sold that can run this stuff on the bike, so would be not too hard. I assume the maintenance on a bike like that is very prohibitive though and the main reason to just steer away. It would be a 2nd, or 3rd bike, so I'm a bit more interested, but I have a gut feeling it's dumb or more folks would do it. I want something like a DRZ-400E, but I'm having trouble finding them in my area. Edit: it is a dumb idea. I also just saw a DRZ come up as I was pulling up craigslist for this post so I sent the guy a message. TheFonz fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Jun 20, 2016 |
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Jun 20, 2016 02:38
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Sagebrush posted:If the requirements are literally just a front light, a license plate light, and a horn....then go to AutoZone and pick up a 50w halogen fog lamp and a 12v white LED marker light, get any horn from any bike at the junkyard, and wire them in. Lights go directly to the battery through a switch (radio shack $2.99 toggle) mounted somewhere convenient, horn does the same but through a button. Not super difficult. It does need a tail light/brake light. No turn signals according to MN. I must have not realized, but do they not come with a brake light? It was a passing whimsy more than anything. Though I assume a brake light switch on a banjo bolt would be easy... https://dps.mn.gov/divisions/dvs/forms-documents/Documents/MV-Certification-Checklist-Off-Road-Motorcycles.pdf
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Jun 20, 2016 03:50
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BlackMK4 posted:i just lean and the bike turns Slavvy posted:I turn and the bike leans. Noooooooooooooo not this again.
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Jul 8, 2016 13:14
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Slavvy posted:Post a picture, I'll bet you do have one.* FZ-09 does not have one. It is annoying as Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuck
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Jul 29, 2016 17:47
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Spraying poo poo with WD40 is good for that. Meaning pretty much any piece of exposed metal, except the brake pads and rotors. To Add: WD40 is the only thing that really gets the grease and brake dust off my neon wheels on my FZ. I would suggest buying stock in the stuff how often I am using it now.
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Sep 16, 2016 00:40
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 15:50 |
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Then once I was old enough to actually maybe buy a bike, it was the NC30, which I still say is the prettiest bike ever to come out of Japan: What about an NC24? https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/mcy/6133370981.html
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May 19, 2017 14:45
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