|
Suppose I should chime in, being a MS3 owner. Mine's a 2008.5 Crystal white pearl. Haven't done anything to it so far except for swapping to Redline trans fluid and a CP-E engine mount, which I'm not sure if I'll keep. It makes shifting feel 100x better, but sucks vibration wise. I bought it because it was supposed to keep the engine/trans more planted but not give off vibes too bad. Giving it a few more days before I swap it back out for my stock one, possibly with window weld in the gaps. I like everything about the car stock but the shifting, which is why I tried out a mount. Plans include a Mazdaspeed CAI and probably some other minor mods like tint and such. May lower it a bit also and paint the stock wheels. I've also thought about putting a boost gauge in the driver's vent and the Accessport when it's worth the money...(when the Streettuner software is released and they get rid of the boost/power limit in 1st and 2nd)
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2008 02:11
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 1, 2024 21:08 |
|
|
Syd posted:Also with BITOG, people have run it out to 6k but the fuel dilution starts getting high. Bad enough that it might not be a good long term (100k+ mile) thing. This kind of sucks since I get free oil changes at the 5k intervals. Hmm, maybe I'll have to check into it a bit more myself and maybe send a sample of the used oil. Syd posted:The windshield creaks and moans in the winter on some cars. There's a TSB out there to put some isolators in there that cure the problem, mostly. Another thing that sucks is that some of the head units were defective and the bass didn't really work correctly. Turn the volume up to 34 and then 35. You'll hear a huge difference if yours is hosed. Got that replaced under warranty though. Also one of my coolant lines came unhooked from the radiator support (likely from all the lovely engine shaking from the weak rear tranny mount) and got caught in the fan and pissed out a bit of coolant before I noticed it. (<0.5 gallon) Just some things to keep an eye on. Overall its a great, fun car to toss around, and toss stuff into. Yay practicality.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2008 22:56
|
|
|
Frosty- posted:Yeah, I thought that was intended to keep the vibration down to stock-like levels. Does the rubber have some kind of break-in period that you have to sit through? Actually the mount has gotten a lot better. Not sure if it is because I installed it on a very cold day or just that it has "settled" or something, but there are hardly any noticeable vibrations now. Only took a couple days to get to this point, which is nice. I honestly thought about changing it out for the stocker in the first couple days. Frosty- posted:I was under the impression the Mazdaspeed CAI was discontinued. If I were you I'd check out cp-e's parts. I have the Cobb SF myself, but those seem to be snapping bits off MS3s. It was, but I think they've gotten a new part number for it and redesigned it or something. Either way, all it really needs is the AEM airflow straightener (~$7) and it's good to go. I'll probably buy a used one cause I'm a cheap rear end and don't want anybody giving me poo poo at the dealer.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 29, 2008 15:23
|
|
|
GET EM SLUGGER posted:By the way, what's the fix for the lovely shifter feel? I saw somewhere that it involves new gear oil, but I didn't catch if it was stock weight or something different. Anyone know? I have a MS3, but I tried the fluid and it doesn't seem to do anything noticeable. I think I used MT-90 also, btw. Not sure if the 6 has the same sort of lovely rear mount since the trans and drivetrain is a bit different though, but it made shifting in my car better at least.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 6, 2009 22:13
|
|
|
Yeah, knock generally isn't good, but I imagine that you can have a little bit of it and get away with it not pulling timing. Just log timing and knock and find out what that threshold is (my old car was 2-3 counts I believe) and try and keep it below that...If the AP allowed you to actually tune. 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2009 23:18
|
|
|
Sublime Process posted:Does anyone else have this shifter problem: When its cold out (I'll say around 40 or so, maybe a little warmer?) and my car has sat over night - when I start my car up and try driving off, is it hard to get into 2nd gear? After the car warms up, it's fine so I'm thinking its just cold gear oil or whatever. Is there anyway to fix it, or just live with it, since it goes away at higher temps? Yep. Redline mt-90 didn't solve it either.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2009 18:16
|
|
|
Do you have to get a new gasket for the cold side of the IC? I thought I remembered seeing that it would require one to change the plugs.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2009 22:04
|
|
|
Syd posted:Threw SRI on, loud as hell even in the cabin surprisingly enough. Wonderfully obnoxious and it does feel a bit better. Seeing as this is my only mod and the gas in this area is 92 or 93 octane, I shouldn't worry about planning on getting an AP at any point should I? I personally wouldn't, since Mazda offers their Mazdaspeed CAI for purchase from the dealer without any flash or anything. These cars run pretty rich stock as is. Leaning it out a bit won't hurt anything from what I can tell.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 24, 2009 13:31
|
|
|
Frosty- posted:I know this is horribly lazy of me but I'm going to do it just to keep this from falling completely off the face of the earth: Yeah, do a couple pulls in 3rd gear from about 2k to redline. It's much easier to see what's happening with only one gear and the rpms being linear instead of rising and falling. As for the excel stuff, just plot up AFR or knock in one data series and then select the RPM column for the "category X axis labels." RPM will be on the bottom (x axis), with AFR plotted in the graph and the y axis will be centered around whatever you're plotting. Putting multiple things on there will goof up the graph and do what you're saying though. Also, gently caress the manufacturers for aftermarket parts for these cars. Everything is retardly expensive. $1400 turboback? No thank you. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Feb 3, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2009 00:28
|
|
|
mod sassinator posted:Does a stock '06 speed6 need 93 octane fuel for best performance? I noticed the Mazda page here lists it. I don't think there are any 93 octane stations around where I live though. Wasn't this a big problem when the speed6 was released, they tuned it for 93 but most people can only run 91 so performance suffers? Yeah, 93 would be best. I'm pretty sure they came out with a reflash that let it run better on 91 though. Could be wrong though.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2009 01:54
|
|
|
mod sassinator posted:Yeah I'm trying to find as many issues as I can to bring up when negotiating with the dealer. I'm hoping I can get one for 13k out the door ('06 sport model with 25k miles). Holy poo poo are they really dropping down that low? When I was looking at the MS3 they were still around 20k or so, and this was about a year ago.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2009 11:35
|
|
|
I like everything but the front bumper and the scoop, which I'm on the fence about.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 2, 2009 11:28
|
|
|
Just installed the Mazdaspeed CAI on my Speed3. Digging it so far, waiting to see if it gets even better with more miles as people are suggesting (to let the computer get the fuel trims readjusted). It makes fun noises now. 
|
|
#
¿
Mar 27, 2009 01:05
|
|
|
Frosty- posted:On the topic of aftermarket bits: It looks like Cobb is bailing out on us because we're all jerks. Anyone who knows what the community at large is like knows they're right. Are they stopping production of everything they make for MS3's or MS6's or both? Hadn't heard about this. The prices of CPE and Cobb are insane though. $6-700 for a downpipe or $1400 for a turboback? You've got to be kidding me. I hope demand dies down for that stuff and they eventually lower prices, or some people come in who aren't trying to make 90000% profit.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 9, 2009 01:34
|
|
|
I still can't wrap my mind around the Cobb thing, since they JUST released that software for the AP. Where did you read about this? From Cobb directly? Still seems weird since it was literally just a couple weeks ago that they released the software and I had heard they'd release the one you can tune yourself with in a couple months.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 9, 2009 10:30
|
|
|
I put 16" steel wheels of a mazda 6 on my speed 3. They rubbed on the brake calipers up front so I filed them down slightly (like a mm or two) and it was fine. I've heard of other 16's fitting without any issues though.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 7, 2009 23:21
|
|
|
Frosty- posted:What does everyone make of this: PT Performance "Mazda DIZI [sic] 2.3 turbo PCV fix" Regardless if it works or not, that's a terribly lovely explanation of what's actually happening and why that little magical fitting changes anything.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 22, 2009 22:21
|
|
|
I had over 18k on mine when I sold it and they still seemed like they had a lot left. I'm not sure how all the retards on the other forums only get like 10k out of them.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2009 11:27
|
|
|
Buckeye posted:Are there any Mazdaspeed3 forums that don't suck? I never found any that were worth a poo poo. It's all annoying anywhere you go it seems. Not to be bleak or anything.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 24, 2009 01:48
|
|
|
Syd posted:Finally going to go steelies -- 16" off of Tirerack seems to be the best and avoids having to pay blingtax on 18" tires in the future. They're selling 16x6.5s for $55 which seems to be a decent enough deal considering they'll mount and balance them at tirerack. I bought a set of 16" steelies from a mazda 6 off craigslist for $50 total. You might try getting a used set for cheaper.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 24, 2009 22:22
|
|
|
CombatWombat posted:The dealership says my car's rear swaybar is cracking, and my car's just over 49,000 miles. It's covered under warranty, thankfully. Should I be concerned? Does this mean the car was abused by the PO? Wonder if that has anything to do with the nuts coming loose on those...I would doubt it though since it wouldn't really be doing anything or under any load anymore, but that's a common thing I remember reading when I had a MS3.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2009 01:37
|
|
|
Kynetx posted:From my own experience, the car is a miserable bastard on factory rubber. All that yaw control and traction control are for not when you have a set of RE 050s. I hear that snow tires make it bearable. I was able to get around a little better by disabling DSC and traction control in certain situations. I just got me a set of chains so that it's driveable when we get some snow, assuming we do this year (PNW). I would say to put on snow tires, but based on your location and if you get snow is iffy. I put some on my 08 when I had it and it was the best thing I ever did as far as winter driving is concerned. It was way better than my old AWD talon with all seasons. I never got stuck and hardly even spun. Sure I could have if I was retarded and mashed the gas like crazy. But if it gets much below 40 degrees there I would recommend another tire.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2010 12:21
|
|
|
Sounds like a hydraulic problem. Check your clutch master reservoir and see if the fluid is low.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 5, 2010 13:20
|
|
|
mattfl posted:I'm going to look at an 08.5 speed3 tomorrow. What are some things I should be looking at to make sure it's ok? It's got 52k miles on it and they are asking 17.5 which is way way to high, thinking about low balling them down to like 13.5/14.5. Any major things I should be on the lookout for when I test drive it? The CD player if it's a GT. Turn the volume up around 32-35 (something in that range). If you hear a large change, then it probably needs replaced with the newer unit. Also the rear end clunks sometimes because of the rear sway bar nuts aren't tightened. And if it's cold where you are, the struts making terrible noises is normal. Otherwise, check if it's been modded, even though it sounds like it's out of warranty with the miles already.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 20, 2010 08:25
|
|
|
I was constantly cleaning the black soot off the rear bumper on my white MS3 with CAI as well. I too would rather be on the safe side of things, but mazda did offer it as an add on part that doesn't void your warranty so I would hope it would be safe.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 24, 2011 15:46
|
|
|
Looking into getting an older (2004ish) Mazda 6. Is the fuel economy as terrible as it seems for the 2.3L? I'm pretty set on the hatchback or wagon and the 4cyl. Could go either way on the automatic or manual.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2012 10:20
|
|
|
No data collection capability? Like storing the data to export to excel or something? Don't imagine it does because most people aren't nerds who would use it.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2012 02:22
|
|
|
Bought some steelies from a mazda 6 and I had to file on the front calipers a little bit. That's how close it was.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2012 23:17
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Hawk HP+ instead of HPS, supposedly. HP+ have squealed like crazy on every car I've put them on. Never again will I do that. I'll grab a set of track pads and a set of street pads. Yes, they're decent pads that you can do track days with, but they're not a good street pad. They dust like crazy too.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 1, 2012 04:59
|
|
|
Probably just converts your $ into noise.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 26, 2012 05:22
|
|
|
BiRD BoY posted:If my speed3 is, in fact, suffering from carbon build up, is there anything, realistically, the dealership can/will do, or just tell me the problem and charge me $90 for the diagnostic? "have a nice day". This is personal opinion, but I wouldn't suggest the "Italian tune up" if your car is running poorly and lacking in performance. Other stuff could be wrong (boost leak?) and you might be doing more damage. The long crank time on warm restarts might be due to fuel vaporization near the high pressure pump since it's right on the engine on DI engines and after a hot soak it probably heats up and boils the fuel. Then it would take a few seconds to get the fuel pressurized again and into the cylinders. Just a guess there.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 29, 2013 11:52
|
|
|
SiB posted:Why can't we have this in North America????? I would trade in my GM 1/2ton instantly. Check out the Chevy Colorado that was just unveiled this week.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2013 00:24
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:I'm not even tracking the car so I don't really see that I need to drop $800+ on a brake kit right this minute. Just buy cheap rotors and pads from rockauto. Or use your credit for pads through corksport and still get cheap rotors at rockauto.
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2014 13:43
|
|
|
Hit an Apex posted:Stage 2 intake  Goddamn you, Gran Turismo.opengl128 posted:I cleaned my MAF for the first time a few weeks ago. About 43K. I was amazed at the difference, it felt like it did right after I installed the intake. If this is a common thing then it sure would seem like your filter isn't doing a great job. I assume you're using an aftermarket oiled filter?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2014 00:30
|
|
|
MourningGlory posted:I think I had my '13 MS3 for all of 2 weeks before I put a JBR rear mount on it. The factory unit was so sloppy it made the car nearly undriveable. I don't understand how Mazda allowed it to go into production with such an obvious flaw. I had a 2008.5 MS3 and the engine moved so much that at an autocross a coolant line that is normally clipped to the radiator got pulled out, and cut by the fan. I was pretty pissed. Then again when I went to the drag strip I did a burnout before my run. It wheel hopped so much that afterwards I saw scrapes on the bottom of the hood from the engine rubbing it. And that's with me stopping as soon as it started hopping. Ridiculous.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2014 22:39
|
|
|
Cugel the Clever posted:So I've got a pretty little '04 Mazda3 Hatchback that's apparently got a faulty rear air sensor. The shop wants to charge ~$350 parts/labor, but the part itself is ~$45 and the Internet claims it's a relatively easy swap in/out. Anyone have any experience doing this? Air sensor? MAP sensor? MAF sensor? For tire pressure or what? Be a little more specific here. None of these should be that hard to fix. Tire pressure sensor you'd have to take to a tire shop, though.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 1, 2015 16:22
|
|
|
Debating on one of these (MS6). http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/cto/5309271811.html Anything I should look out for? What are the common failures? Are parts hard to come by since it's a low volume car?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2015 15:46
|
|
|
Alighieri posted:Not sure about the ATF, will have to look that up, but power steering exchange looks like a ripoff considering you should never need to change it unless a hose fails or a pump has to be replaced, similar to brake fluid. As said above, replace brake fluid every few years. It absorbs moisture which lowers the boiling point and just gets nasty after a couple years.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 4, 2015 18:16
|
|
|
Anything good or bad to say about the Mazda 2.5L in the 2011 Mazda 3? Going to look at one in a bit paired to the 6 speed manual.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 29, 2015 16:04
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 1, 2024 21:08 |
|
|
I drove it yesterday. I liked the trans, but thought the gas pedal was ridiculously sensitive from a stop. Taking off I like to try and time gassing it and releasing the clutch and every time barely touching it it would rev to 2-3k rpm. Drove fairly nice otherwise though. I didn't realize the car was a flood car and it had an aftermarket alarm with some questionable wiring on it so I passed. It was also advertised as a GT, when it was a sport. Car shopping continues...
|
|
#
¿
Dec 30, 2015 16:31
|
|