|
Just broke a bolt of in the block while replacing the water pump gasket on my E30...gently caress. Was going to be a quick hour or two job but now I need to drill it out then tap or helicoil it and order a new gasket because the new one got ripped. While it is still a cheap/easy fix for the radiator eating the clutch fan and pouring coolant all over the track its pissing me off and has been out of commission for two weeks now. In other news I talked my brother into detailing the VW diesel pickup I bought the other day.
|
#
¿
Jun 9, 2009 04:53
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 11:01 |
|
|
hippynerd posted:^^^ drill a hole in the bolt (a little smaller than the inside groove of the threads), and an extractor to remove the bolt. If you cant remove the bolt, you will have to drill oversized hole to tap for a bigger bolt. sometimes they are stuck hard and wont extract without breakng the extractor, but its a lot easier if you can just get the broken bolt out. Thats what I'm planning...hope it works. Going to call a couple of the dealerships in the cities to see if they have the gasket.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 9, 2009 05:46
|
|
|
Managed to get the broken bolt out of the engine just by grabbing it with vice grips and backing it out. Will replace the water pump and put my car back together tomorrow. Fixed the passenger window crank on my MK1 caddy.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 10, 2009 02:48
|
|
|
Had the left rear tire fall apart while going 70mph in traffic in the VW. Luckily just lost half the tread and it held pressure. Limped it home at 25mph then tossed the spare basket weaves on it...now it has a wide stance and looks funny but drives very nice. Sadly the BMW emblems on the caps didn't make it any faster.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2009 23:09
|
|
|
Got new tires for and changed the oil in the VW. Shipping the VW wheels back to WI this week so I can mount them and drive it down in the next month or two. Realized I really am going to need to find a place with a garage because I miss working on cars and an oil change is about the most I can really do at this apartment. Edit: Then took it to Deals Gap and tossed it through the twisties. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Jul 25, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jul 25, 2009 17:59
|
|
|
Replaced the thermostat in the E21. It now runs in a normal operating temp, doesn't overheat, warms up faster and blows hot air instead of just warm. Replaced 2 of 4 glow plugs in the caddy diesel. Only 2 because I couldn't get the other two out without removing the injection pump which means I have to mess with timing which means I should do the water pump and timing belt while I am at it...etc. drat thing still won't start.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2010 22:43
|
|
|
Front driver's side wheel bearing was making some terrible sounds so I decided to take a look at it. I think I found the problem... Pulled the hub and it rained bearing guts
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2016 23:44
|
|
|
Is this the thread for people loving up your rides? E21 was at the shop having some things finished up then a tow truck driver snagged it... I dropped off a spare fender I had. They repainted it and tossed on a new headlight. Whole car needs paint (  hail) but it was still annoying.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2016 16:12
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Protip: Never post a running vehicle for under a grand on CL. Jesus. I always forget this then remember real quick after my phone starts blowing up. Listed a bike Friday night for 1k...had 10 calls, 30+ text messages and 5 emails by the time I got home five hours later. Eventually I got sick of low ballers and assholes and responded to all of them saying first one here (little market down the road) with cash gets it.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 15, 2016 20:41
|
|
|
Ansith posted:Threw some Redline MT-90 into my 944 transaxle, swapping from the cheapo Nulon oil I put in. Related to that I fixed the auxiliary fan on the 928. All it took was a new blower fuse, new blower relay and a new blower temp switch...  But now it was able to idle in the sun when it's 90 degrees out with no troubles.
NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Jul 8, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2016 14:29
|
|
|
lovely timing belt talk? Here's the procedure for the 928 timing belt - http://www.928intl.com/repair/T-belt1.pdf Estimated time doing it yourself the first time is 16-22 hours, after that it's around 12. Once you can get to everything it isn't bad at all sadly getting to everything means taking everything off the front of the engine. It looks so easy when you don't have all the accessories, radiator, two fans, four belts and other poo poo in the way.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 28, 2016 11:53
|
|
|
Was actually Saturday but I bought an engine for it. Spent some time over the last few days attempting to figure out how I'm going to make it fit... 2002 AP1 Honda S2000 complete swap with 31k miles for the race car
|
|
#
¿
Aug 16, 2016 12:56
|
|
|
fknlo posted:Once you get everything together make sure you stay aware of the oil levels. AP1's are known to use oil when in VTEC, especially Mobil 1. Check the VIN to see if yours is after the banjo bolts were upgraded(mid year '02). If not, do some research to figure out if you'll want to replace them. It looks like tracking the engine is one of the cases where you'll generally want to do it. Nodoze posted:The valve retainers can crack if it was ever mechanically over revved. If that is a track car you should put an oil baffle in the pan while the engines out
|
|
#
¿
Aug 16, 2016 18:05
|
|
|
The TDI seemed to be getting louder to me over the past month or so but I wasn't sure until today when it seemed way louder and I saw a cloud of smoke come out from under the car when I started it. I think I found the problem... Can't say I'm surprised it was a Wisconsin car until 2010 and 180k miles, 105k later and this happens. May try to temporary fix it for a while or just run it to a exhaust shop and have them fix it. I can drive it as is but I'm sure the cat hanging like that isn't good for things.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2017 23:56
|
|
|
I did truck stuff...
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2017 21:03
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Did those tie-down points on the outside of the bed come with the truck, or did you add them? I'd like to add something similar to my Ranger, I've tied a pile of somewhat-loose stuff down with a big cheap cargo net and there aren't that many good places to hook on to (rust holes notwithstanding). Those came on the truck, they were fairly common on older trucks and are amazingly useful. I'm not sure what the max load on the hooks are but they make tying things down fast and easy. I hadn't used a net until that picture but I'll be keeping at least one in the truck at all times from now on.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2017 12:30
|
|
|
Attempted to go for a drive... Clutch cable on the locost is toast, end broke off shortly after taking that photo. Took the E28 out instead.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 18, 2020 23:26
|
|
|
KerenskyWhite posted:Attempted to remove bell housing bolts on e36 today. After finding out they were a torx socket, bought torx sockets. Hoped my little ratchet would get in there and take care of them. Oh no. Not these bolts. They're going to need a breaker bar... but there's like zero room. I do not want to pull the transmission with the engine. I don't want to remove the cars front clip to allow that. If it's anything like an E30 loosen the engine mounts, remove the trans mounts and support the rear of the trans with a jack or jack stand. Then combine extensions to get three feet worth and stick that on your breaker bar. Ideally you have the driveshaft off as well. What are you actually trying to do? Removing bell housing bolts but not pulling transmission?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 22, 2020 11:03
|
|
|
KerenskyWhite posted:Engine rebuild. Not touching the transmission if I can help it, in my pre-apprenticeship we didn't touch them and well, I never got a job in the industry after that so... Funny, my resulting career in IT didn't go into them either! Plus it's behaving just fine. Last thing it needs is me loving with it. That makes sense, I misread your original post a bit. So tons of extensions and go at it from underneath is the best way that I've found. Once it's disconnected you should be able to wiggle it out of there as long as you have the radiator out of the way to slide the engine forward a bit. I'd still recommend disconnecting the drive shaft so you can slide the trans back a little bit to make everything easier once it's disconnected from the engine.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 22, 2020 17:40
|
|
|
Goober Peas posted:On-topic - I'm about to get in my car and go...somewhere. I'm going stir crazy enough that I miss my 30 minute commute each morning/evening. Halp me I'm broken. In what I did to my ride talk: checked on the locost battery to see if it will live another day. Was discharged down to 3.5v when a storm rolled through and cooked the battery tender. Currently sitting a 9.5v after a week on a new battery tender while hooked up to a second battery. I have a spare battery but it will be a pain in the rear end to replace thanks to how cramped everything is, seeing if I can salvage this one first.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 16, 2020 12:31
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Also, I drove this yesterday Elise/Exige are stupid fun, I can't image what one on A7's with aero is like. They already go anywhere you want to put them so I guess the same just even faster?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2020 20:23
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:New seat showed up after getting lost in customs for two weeks Really like those seats, I've got an old one and it's one of the best fitting seats I've found for smaller drivers. How thick did you go for the splitter?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 3, 2020 11:28
|
|
|
net work error posted:A little bit of the brake fluid got on one of my tires. I washed it off but should I be concerned? Doing stuff chat: fixed the negative battery cable on the Fiat, still have battery light on so need to track down that issue  Letting it warm up a bit more then giving it a wash, first driveway wash of the year.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2021 18:39
|
|
|
Nice find, nearly race grade traction control for a reasonable price. Is that the once that can also with with yaw sensors and such to provide an adjustable traction control?
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2021 21:45
|
|
|
Figured out why the Fiat kept throwing belts and gave it an oil change. Fixed the headlight on the Locost. Little stuff but garage time is good.
|
|
#
¿
May 30, 2021 16:07
|
|
|
I've been using the vacuum systems to change oil for probably a decade now. I usually pulled the plug every other change to get anything sitting in the bottom and check the magnetic plug for debris. It was really nice on the VW with a top mounted filter to not have to go under the car. I still use it because I can get home, stick the vacuum in then go change into garage clothes and gather supplies. It also helps with the initial oil dump and splatter when there isn't several quarts of pressure behind it.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 22, 2021 17:17
|
|
|
devmd01 posted:Well, 5.0LV8 of 93 octane expended at about 11mpg with 90* F ambient is probably a lot of heat to get rid of considering the relative air temperature, especially if the radiator airflow is compromised due to the lower splash guard. I’ll let it cool overnight and see what happens in the morning. Worst case I’ll park it until the appointment next week and drive the ranger in the meantime. Have them check over your cooling system during your appointment, you really shouldn't be overheating that much with some spirited driving. I've taken rental cars to track days and thrashed them for 20 minutes of "instructor play time" and never had overheating issues. Modern car should have zero issues staying cool with stock functioning cooling system on the stock motor unless it's crazy stupid hot out and you're really over taxing the motor.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2021 10:09
|
|
|
devmd01 posted:Well it would help to check the obvious; now that it’s had a chance to cool off overnight I checked the coolant level, not great! Off to the auto store as soon as they open. Once I get some more coolant back in so there is something in the reservoir, I’m just gonna park it until next week and add it to the service tab. Make sure you get ALL the air out of the cooling system once you fill it, either you or the shop. If there's a big air bubble in the system it isn't going to cool for poo poo.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2021 14:49
|
|
|
No. 6 posted:That's speculation without data. What part of tint blocking UV light transmission which lowers the internal temperature of your car thus allowing the a/c to run on a lower setting is speculative? There's a reason so many cars in the south have tint.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 3, 2021 15:46
|
|
|
trouser chili posted:Also the wiring is a nightmare. What do you mean we have a phantom drain somewhere? What a mess.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 24, 2021 10:48
|
|
|
wallaka posted:
The wheels (rear), ride height and "patina" 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2021 09:03
|
|
|
A few months ago the clutch cable holding mechanism on the locost let go while driving home from groceries, I was able to limp it home thanks to no traffic. It "let go" because one of the pinch bolts holding the cable vibrated out, this is about the third time. Finally got around to working on it, bought the stuff to make and crimp cables. This combined with the pinch bolts, now with locktite and a cable clamp holding them in, should work a lot better  Got it all buttoned up and it felt like the clutch pack was frozen from sitting so long. So put in a full EBC racing clutch kit, note the two clutch springs. Not a ton of room to work and barely enough to remove the clutch cover.   Then I fought with getting the clutch arm in just the right spot, turns out that's a big pain on the R1 and R6 of this era. Thanks to Slavvy in cycle asylum for pointing out how fiddly this is.  Now I need to remake the cable again, put everything back together and take it for a test drive. It turns out my clutch pack was probably fine as well, I had underestimated the force required to actuate the pressure plate with two springs. I just wasn't pulling/pushing hard enough and only had the cable adjusted to remove the pre-load. Oh well, lesson learned and now I have a better clutch. Old friction plates looked pretty burnt anyway.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2021 10:59
|
|
|
Someone wanted to come look at and buy the Fiat today assuming they fit being a bit over 6'. Went to do a quick test drive last night and no start, starter doesn't even spin. Pulled starter real quick and it looks like that's fine so I'm hoping it's another poo poo-tier crimp like the dozen or so other I've fixed on this thing.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 19, 2021 14:55
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Pretty sure they won't fit, BTW. He was 6'3", knees in the wheel and head almost hitting the roof but he had a blast driving it. He's going to think about it and let me know sometime next week. Was a poo poo connection/corrosion causing the no-start so easy fix.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 20, 2021 11:31
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Looking at it when I sat in one at a new car show, I could easily fit if the base on the seat was shortened. Maybe that's an option? A little custom fabrication. Powershift posted:I've got heated acura seats in my F250 and it owns. huge bolsters for all that high-G cornering the truck is naturally capable of. For something as tame as a mustang you might be looking more at buick or cadillac. They're $40 a seat for manual seats, almost cheaper than gorilla tape. They might try to get you for airbags if the seats have em though. Nidhg00670000 posted:Ball joint was shot on the Peugeot, didn't pass inspection. It was 5 bux more expensive to get a whole control arm WITH ball joint than buying just the ball joint.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2021 11:16
|
|
|
Figured out why the locost won't start, looks like I've got some bent valves. Starter got bumped while the cam chain tensioner was off for working on the clutch. I'll order a ebay head and should be good to go. Also fixed the starter working while the ignition is off. 
|
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2021 00:00
|
|
|
Seems unlikely on something that's been recently gone through but check for any corrosion or bad crimp on your starter signal wire, we ran into this the other week. So many issues tracked down to lovely crimps by POs.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2021 15:29
|
|
|
Panty Saluter posted:Black on black looks really good there. Now I'm wondering if I should paint my steelies black instead of silver Few cans of Plastidip as nitsuga mentioned is the way to go. Clean the wheels really well, stick playing cards between the wheel and tire and give it a few coats letting it dry between. Holds up pretty well then when you're sick of it some WD40 (let it soak) then a pressure washer will get most of it off.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2022 21:48
|
|
|
Does it have the fold up rear facing seats in the trunk/hatch area? My Grandfather always had Taurus/Sable wagons, have a lot of memories of sitting in the rear facing seats while he towed his boat to the launching point to take us out on the water.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 6, 2022 10:20
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 11:01 |
|
|
Wife's car battery took a poo poo Sunday following an oil change and several start cycles to reset the service light. Had to use a jump box to get going for groceries then would barely start Monday morning so new battery time. Was the original from 2015 and the terminal was completely trashed with growth. I've never had a car with as much as this thing and always cleaned it off while I was doing oil changes. No amount of hammering or anything else was going to get that off there so I slapped on a parts store terminal clamp while I wait for a proper replacement to arrive. Old crusty   New temporary until an OEM replacement arrives tomorrow. 
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2022 19:36
|
|