Miniature Painting/Sculpting/Modelling Megathread (Shut up and use Simple Green)

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Miniature Painting/Sculpting/Modelling Megathread (Shut up and use Simple Green)

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berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Dr. Phildo posted:

I got this cool sniper guy but am having a little issue. He comes in three parts; base, legs, torso - should I paint the figure and base separately, or assemble and paint? There are details on the base that look like will be lost if I put the whole thing together first.

Problem is I want him to look like he is a bit camouflaged with the base, so my initial thought is to assemble first. Advice, you guys?

Personally, I would do him and the base as separate jobs. Just because you want him to be wearing a camo that blends with the terrain doesn't mean you want him wearing the terrain. You'll have an easier time painting if you're not constantly touching things up.

# ¿ Dec 10, 2009 19:38

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# ¿ May 17, 2024 20:32

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Iron Squid posted:

So I reprimed my minis, and the primer is STILL coming on thicker than I want. I used short burst of paint to try and minimize excess paint, but...

I've noticed the primer seems really, really thin when it comes out, almost like a wash. Is this normal?

What kind of paint are you using? Are you shaking the can for a couple of minutes before spraying? How close are you to the model? Numerous light coats are better than one heavy coat, which looks like what you're doing. Seems to me that you're too close spraying too much paint. You want to make it look like you're dusting the model, rather than slathering it. Also, judging by the fact that the paint has come off the chin and base, it looks like you didn't let the front dry completely before flipping it over and priming the back.

# ¿ Dec 11, 2009 22:14

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Iron Squid posted:

White Krylon paint?

Yeah. Remember, primer has a different consistency due to the fact that is is made specifically for providing a base for paint to adhere to. While this sounds like exactly what you need, on something this small, the texture and makeup of the paint will not provide the smooth base you need.

Now, there are specific miniature primers that have a much finer texture than the standard type of spray paint primer (such as Krylon) and you can use those on a miniature with no issues.

In other words, if the can says Primer, make sure it is made specifically for miniatures. Otherwise, just use regular matte spray paint.

# ¿ Dec 12, 2009 02:04

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Those of you that use them, do you prefer the W&N Series 7 Miniature brushes or the W&N Series 7 regular brushes?

# ¿ Dec 19, 2009 05:54

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

PaintVagrant posted:

Ive only used the standards, but Im really curious about the miniature. It looks like the hair length is shorter.

It is. Supposedly, they are specifically made for the miniature painter. I figure you'd have better control over where the brush goes, but I would think that the shorter length would translate to a slightly stiffer brush.

What are the sizes you recommend? I was looking at the 2, 1, 0, and 2/0.

# ¿ Dec 19, 2009 13:53

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Has anyone used the P3 brushes? I ordered the W&N Series 7 miniature brushes, but I think I should have also picked up some regular #1 and #2 Series 7 brushes. I was wondering if the P3 brushes are any good, or if they are the normal cheap brushes everyone else offers.

# ¿ Dec 31, 2009 16:12

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

stabbington posted:

They're not anything special.

Hmm. Well, I guess I'll drop the $6.95 shipping and get the W&N brushes just to be on the safe side.

ALSO: Extra 5% off today at the Warstore, just in case you missed the Black Friday sale.

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Dec 31, 2009

# ¿ Dec 31, 2009 16:53

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

PV or anyone else for that matter - any tips on painting Blood Angels red? I was looking at a base of Blood Red, followed by a Flesh Wash, but I'm concerned I'm going to need a million coats of BR to cover white primer. I know I could do a Foundation red base, but I really want to do as few steps as possible.

Also, has anyone tried the Army Painter Red? I was wondering if it was similar to any existing GW or Vallejo paints.

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Dec 31, 2009

# ¿ Dec 31, 2009 20:46

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

PaintVagrant posted:

And dont get me wrong, the occasional stringy thing happens, but the newer GW stuff literally has them at every sharp point of the model

It is the injection process, most likely. I heard something the other day regarding it. The metal is forced into the mold under high pressure in an effort to get it into those pointy bits before the metal is able to cool. Some of the liquid metal is forced out beyond the cavity of the mold and results in the flash you're getting.

Maybe GW changed their injection process in the last few years? Or maybe the sharp bits on the models are a finer detail than the older stuff, resulting in more bleed-out?

And in my opinion, GW has always had flash on their models. It may have been smaller pieces or easier to take off due to the softness of the metal, but I always remember having to take the flash off of metal models.

# ¿ Jan 28, 2010 20:45

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Someone wanted a tutorial for painting FoW American armor: http://www.paintingclinic.com/operations/15mmstuart.htm

I wish I would have found this before I painted my Epic IG in what I thought were proper WW2 colors.

# ¿ Feb 11, 2010 20:54

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

For paint removal, if you have any metals, you can use that gel paint remover stuff. I picked up a can at Home Depot, and the paint was coming off my Steel Legion as I was brushing the gel onto the model. A light brushing took off all traces of paint. In ten minutes, I had models that looked like they came fresh out of the blister.

In contrast, I had Steel Legion sitting in a bath of Super Clean for a week that still had paint I couldn't scrub off of them.

In other words: Plastics = Super Clean, Simple Green, etc. Metals = Paint removing gel. You will be so much happier.

# ¿ Feb 19, 2010 16:41

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

chelsea clinton posted:

Pretty much anything that removes paint can work for metals. You'd need some hardcore poo poo to damage that stuff. I've used the equivalent of Simple Green to great result, I'm just going to need some acetone still because of the glue and the really thickly slabbed-on decades-old paint in the crevices on some of the minis.

True. I have used it in the past, but had forgotten how fast it worked, since I hadn't stripped metals in ages. Also, as a bonus, it eats the hell out of superglue. Limbs just fall right off!

# ¿ Feb 19, 2010 22:46

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Regarding basing, how would you guys deal with this situation?

I'm working on my Steel Legion for this month's oath, and am finished up to the basing point. I laid some of the Citadel basing material down (I like the variations in the gravel sizes) but the troopers feet are seriously buried. These guys were apparently sculpted with some regard to the human form, and don't have size 15 feet clad in giant space-boots like the Cadians.

I pulled the models out of the bases, snipped off the tabs, then filed down the remaining flashing on the feet (damaging my paint job in the process,) and covered the base completely in sand. I'll paint the bases next, then super glue the models to the bases, but this seems like I run the risk of getting a model that won't be making good contact with the base now, due to the uneven surface. In addition, this is going to be a real pain in the rear end if I have to cut the tabs off of 100+ models and file them all down.

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Feb 24, 2010

# ¿ Feb 24, 2010 17:08

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

PaintVagrant posted:

buy some plasticard, then lay down two narrow strips of it, on either side of the slot of the base. Glue the model down to that strip, so its raised up a little higher than the rest of the base, and when you base it most of the sand will go under the feet, as opposed to covering them

Good call. I'll give that a shot.

# ¿ Feb 24, 2010 17:37

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Crosspostin' from the Oaths Thread:
The only paint on these models is on the bases - everything else is a wash over white primer!

For some reason (lighting, probably) the coats look the same color as the gloves, webbing, and masks. They are actually pretty different, but you can't tell in the photos. Anyway...

Group Shot:

Click here for the full 1024x768 image.

Closer troop shots:

Click here for the full 1024x768 image.

"Don't you know, bitch? Plasma gets HOT! FWOOM!"

Click here for the full 1024x768 image.

Sending hot lead downrange:

Click here for the full 1024x768 image.

# ¿ Feb 28, 2010 20:38

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

PV - are you still doing the store thing? Paintvagrant.com seems to be dead...

# ¿ Mar 15, 2011 20:18

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

I think my question got lost in the shuffle of the last couple pages, so I'll re-ask it: Does anyone know if PaintVagrant still has his store, or did that go by the wayside?

# ¿ Mar 16, 2011 09:32

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

I've got a set of W&N Series 7 Miniature brushes that I don't need, if anyone is interested. I use and prefer the regular Series 7 brushes, but I don't want these to rot in a drawer somewhere. They are unused and still have the protectors over the bristles. I'll check for sure, but I think they are the following sizes: 3/0, 2/0, 0, 1, 2.

I'm asking $50, plus shipping to where ever you are (First Class within the US will probably cost around $3.)

EDIT: Brushes sold. Thanks for playing!

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Jul 31, 2012

# ¿ Jul 30, 2012 21:52

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

The Impaler posted:

Email sent!

Replied!

unpurposed posted:

Two questions for the miniature thread:

1. gently caress Citadel Plastic Glue. The stupid nozzle always clogs up and now I can't even clear out the clog with a thin needle. I really like that kind of nozzle though. Can someone recommend the best plastic glue, both in quality and ease of application?

Assuming you're not referring to the super glue, I use Testors. You can either use the stuff that comes in a glass bottle and has a brush (the only problem is that you don't get a super-fine application) or the stuff that comes in the square bottle with the long neck (http://www.tcpglobal.com/AirbrushDepot/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=TES+3527C&gclid=CJvOqs_Yw7ECFQff4AodcwEAzg). The long-neck version used to come with a couple little needles to punch the glue out if it ever got clogged, but I never really had an issue with it.

# ¿ Jul 31, 2012 11:22

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

ijyt posted:

Has anyone here used the Citadel spray gun? I've got 5 Devilfish/HH chassis to paint, but don't really want to invest too much into something I'll probably use only 5 or 6 times.

Or should I just stick to a tank brush?

If you're in the US, spend a few bucks and get an airbrush and compressor from Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/1-5-hp-58-psi-compressor-and-airbrush-kit-95630.html). All told, you'll spend under $100 and have less hassle than using propellant cans - "Oh, you're halfway through painting that tank? Too bad, because now you have no pressure and you have to let your propellant warm up!"

EDIT: Alright, you're in the UK. I'd still recommend picking up an airbrush and compressor. It will still be more than worth the money. Plus, if you practice, you can do a lot more than just basecoating with the thing.

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 13:30 on Jul 31, 2012

# ¿ Jul 31, 2012 13:26

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

ijyt posted:

Looking at various UK stores, an airbrush set up seems far too expensive for me and I don't have much space to begin with either.

I think I'll look for a spray/primer close enough to Straken Green, or just go with the thin layer route.

If you know someone in the US, they may be able to hook you up? I know shipping will be a killer if you get a compressor, but I can't imagine they're that expensive in the UK?

# ¿ Jul 31, 2012 18:18

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

^^ I don't know if the compressor is any good, but the fact that it has a tank is nice.

krushgroove posted:

Voltage will be the issue then. I have a tank compressor I brought with me from the States but I haven't even plugged it in yet, not sure if my transformer is powerful enough to handle it.

Duh. I didn't think about that.

Speaking of airbrushes, does anyone else have this issue: When I'm airbrushing and I set the brush down, my compressor will cycle on and off every few seconds, like there is a slow leak. At first I thought it might be a seal on the brush or hose, but I've swapped both out and still have the same issue. Is that a normal thing?

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Jul 31, 2012

# ¿ Jul 31, 2012 18:33

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Rapey Joe Stalin posted:

Well this is a new one on me. For the first time in almost twenty years (on and off) of this hobby I've just had a model start to split in two along the mould line during clean up.

gently caress Finecast.

I really have to wonder what their process is for casting these models. I don't think you can get a proper resin cast without a vacuum chamber due to the bubbles created in the mixing process. GW has got to be re-purposing their spin-casting tech for Finecast and it just ain't working.

# ¿ Aug 2, 2012 15:59

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

It's almost like there was a conversation like:
"Welp, everyone else is moving to resin. Let's do it too! This will work with our existing equipment so we don't have to burden the shareholders, right?"

"Ummm, I don..."

"Great! You've got 20,000 gallons of resin on pallets in the warehouse. Get started!"

(Jauntily walks off to tell shareholders everything is peachy.)

Anyhoo, I think I'm going to get into Gorkamorka. Sadly, I'm not about to pay $27 for a Wartrak. Anyone ever scratchbuild one before? I was thinking of taking one of the old bikes and scratchbuilding a bed in back and adding some tracks from some Russian toy line called Robogear...

# ¿ Aug 2, 2012 19:57

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Silhouette posted:

Doot doot doot click me dooty dooty doot

I had actually seen the final product on The Waaagh!, but not the buildup - this is the model that turned me on to the Robogear treads. Thanks for this.

EDIT: Oh poo poo! This is the guy who built the legendary Mr. Potatohead Stompa!

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Aug 3, 2012

# ¿ Aug 3, 2012 14:03

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Rapey Joe Stalin posted:

Splitter.jpg

It opened more than that when it first happened, but as I need to use that piece on the model I'm reluctant to risk breaking it with too much pressure.

Also note the superior fine details and crisp edging which Finecast gives you, part of the superiority over pewter casting.

Didn't you just contact GW and get a new one?

# ¿ Aug 3, 2012 20:47

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

WINNERSH TRIANGLE posted:

why don't you buy some liquid green stuff - only �2.30 for a pot

"Hey, sorry about the holes in your brand new shoes, but if you buy our Patch Kit, you'll be as good as new!"

# ¿ Aug 3, 2012 21:50

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

TheCosmicMuffet posted:

I suppose it's possible that the surface tension as the unmixed resin evaporates is pulling set resin with it. Though, really, his 'never heard of it' schtick is mindless. It's sap and it won't petrify for decades if it's not exposed to air (for example, inside a mixed resin figure that was poured and set).

Not true. The resin used in models is hardened by chemical reaction - that's why it gets hot when curing. Also, if air was required, the stuff would never cure in a vacuum chamber. :science:

What is more likely is that the mix was off in some way. There was enough of a reaction to cure the crunchy outer shell, but the inside is filled with yummy, oozing chemicals - appropriate for a GD of Nurgle, if you ask me.

The sad thing is that the models can continue to "weep" the uncured resin for a long time, depending how much is trapped in there. I've had this happen to a few of my casts, though thankfully, I usually get the ratio right.

# ¿ Aug 8, 2012 20:28

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Daedleh posted:

Propa boyz

I really like those! They're a simple scheme, and the red really makes them pop.

# ¿ Aug 10, 2012 13:21

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

UnintelligibleSmurf posted:

They changed the image on the front page to include the extras to date. It's 106 minis for $100, including the recently added four transparent fire elementals.

Man, I don't even roleplay and this looks crazy cool. I am seriously tempted to jump on this. Does anyone have experience with the Bones line? How's the plastic quality?

# ¿ Aug 10, 2012 19:05

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

midge posted:

Pick the level you want as a reward and add on extra.

So, for example I wanted Vampire Package($100) + Carry Case ($25) + The large Dragon ($10) + The two dragons ($15). So my total pledge is $150 with Vampire selected as reward.

When it's finished they will send a survey basically saying "So you have $50 left over, what do you want to use it on?".

^^^ Can you add additional stuff later? Like if I pledge $100 now, can I come back next week and say "Welp, I'd better get a case now" and add it to my existing pledge?

# ¿ Aug 10, 2012 20:23

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Kruller posted:

Guess what came in the mail today? This might be ambitious for my first ever painting experience.

I almost got into this one, until I realized that I don't have anyone to play with...

# ¿ Aug 10, 2012 20:51

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

The Supreme Court posted:

This is completely crazy and I reckon Bones is the best thing to happen to this hobby in ages. I'm definitely going to pick up this deal! The $15 dungeon lot version is also awesome, it's got something like 30 figures in it. The $100 vampire level makes me want to construct + model an entire new Heroquest board or something equally ridiculous!

Never mind Heroquest - GW needs to come on and do a Kickstarter for Warhammer Quest. "You nerds want your game? Fine. Pay up." I'd sign up in an instant.

# ¿ Aug 10, 2012 21:56

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

moths posted:

The Reaper figures are going to be commercially available at some point so don't panic if you can't do the hundred dollar level or only want a few particular models.

Yes, they will. But not at this price.

# ¿ Aug 15, 2012 19:27

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Fyrbrand posted:

Reaper is being pretty smart about this thing, I've gotta say. They're taking advantage of the natural mini hobbyist tendency to covet and hoard a bunch of models they will never actually do anything with.

Haha - I said this exact thing the other day to my gaming group. I told them that I would likely never use any of it, but the magpie gamer in me is kicking in - "Ooh... Shiny!"

It would be a good replacement for all the stuff I finally let go of and just sold on Ebay.

# ¿ Aug 15, 2012 19:52

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

So I got my hands on a ton of Warmaster minis, but they are really poorly painted. I had them soaking for a few days, but the scrubbing is making my drat hands cramp up (they're really small models.)

I was looking at ultrasonic cleaners, but I'm not sure which one to pick. Amazon sells some smaller models (that obviously won't hold many models at once) and Harbor Freight has a larger unit, but it's about twice as much.

Does anyone have a model they can recommend? How many models can you fit in the basket at one time?

# ¿ Aug 20, 2012 00:52

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Pierzak posted:

I'm thinking of buying a cheap ultrasonic cleaner for stripping minis instead of trying to reach everything with a toothbrush. Are they good when it comes to cleaning the smallest details, or am I better off with scrubbing by hand?

You are in luck! I just came here to post that I did a writeup on an ultrasonic cleaner I just bought - I did it up on my blog because I didn't feel like reposting on every single forum I frequent. You can read part one here: http://directfire.blogspot.com/. Parts 2 and 3 will be up in the next couple of days, as time permits.

If you have any specific questions, let me know.

# ¿ Aug 21, 2012 19:04

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

As you will see in part two tomorrow (I haven't finished writing it up), the results are pretty drat good. Long story short, with two cycles of 480 seconds each, with a scrub after each cycle, the models are almost completely clean.

You're still going to have to scrub, but the time is reduced and I thought it was easier. I don't think there are many options out there where you don't have to work a bit for good results.

# ¿ Aug 21, 2012 19:35

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Rapey Joe Stalin posted:

You've got the same model as I have. Pro cleaning buddies.

Typically I soak the models in the cleaning agent for an hour or two before putting them into the sonic bath with just water, or water mixed with a little bit of Vallejo cleaner. That's only because I've heard that the sonic bath works better with water as opposed to thicker liquids, but I'm not sure whether that's actually true or not.

The heat function can help take the paint off, and is an absolute godsend when straightening bits of Finecast.

I'll have to try it with just water - I assumed that having a cleaning agent would help with the process, but maybe it's just the sonic action/magic doing all the work. I'm guessing you get good results? Have you tried to strip any Forge World yet?

# ¿ Aug 21, 2012 20:55

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# ¿ May 17, 2024 20:32

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

!amicable posted:

Wait, how much credit is the Sophie worth? Is this in the FAQ somewhere?

I think it was in one of the videos or the Reaper posts in the Comments, but that drat thread moves so fast that there is no way to keep up with it.

I'm torn on whether to trade mine in or Ebay it to the mini-boobie loving pervs on Ebay. I have a feeling there will be a flood of them on Ebay though.

# ¿ Aug 24, 2012 21:35

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Miniature Painting/Sculpting/Modelling Megathread (Shut up and use Simple Green)

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