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blugu64 posted:SRT-10 Bentley Continental/Porsche Cayman But in reality we'll get more of this 
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Sep 24, 2015 04:44
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Oct 7, 2015 18:12
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Dead Reckoning posted:What are the plusses and minuses of the front license plate holders that bolt in to the tow hook on a Golf vs just having the mechanic mount one to the bumper? On the plus side, you preserve the bumper skin for someone down the line who may not need to mount the front plate. Easier removal for photo shoots and shows, if you're into that. Minus, it looks more wonky than if it were in the center, attracts more attention (usually a bad thing), and depending on the car, can block off a fog light or turn signal.
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Oct 7, 2015 23:23
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:http://www.thedrive.com/article/469/you-should-totally-buy-a-volkswagen-golf-r-right-now You'd better not let them hear it running before the ink dries on any trade-in offer they give you. How it is, only the 'push, pull & drag it in' lots would touch it. Not trying to poo poo on you at all, and I don't know your financial situation, but I personally feel like you'd be better off repairing what you've got. Especially if you still owe a lot on it. Check out some threads on Business, Finance & Careers, lest you wind up paying $50,000 for a stripper model Golf.
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Oct 17, 2015 02:17
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devmd01 posted:I just hit 160k mi in mine, if it can hold on 2 more years of me beating the hell out of it we'll have enough cash to replace it outright. I expect nothing on trade-in, the headliner is falling down and I don't give enough of a poo poo to fix it, pinning it up is good enough. If it comes to that, sell it to me or some random kid in your neighborhood for a grand.
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Nov 4, 2015 00:32
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Bought a 2009 CC 2.0TSI back in July, really liked how the car looked and drove down the road but anything's better than the '93 Passat I'd been driving before that. Accelerating, going around corners and braking, the thing felt like a boat. Suspension was really floaty up front, nose would pitch up and down going through the gears. I'm pretty sure the shocks up front were the originals with 106,000 miles on them, and the 4! NEW! -chinese- TIRES! the dealer sold the car with didn't help things out. It was 420 spin tires every day on anything approaching moisture on the road. Then I started having major problems with the intake. The EPC light would pop on and limit my revs to 3000, 2250, 1750, then 1250 depending on how it loving felt that minute. It would happen randomly on the way home from work time to time, and if it weren't a 6-speed I doubt I would have gotten it home a few times. Felt terrible doing 35mph in a 50 zone in 6th gear with my foot on the floor, luckily it was all back roads. Diagnosed at VW as a problem with the throttle body, pony up $400 for parts and another $crazy for labor. The problem then went away on its own after about 20 shut down, restart cycles, and then it wouldn't crop up again for a few weeks or 500 miles. Finally in September in the parking lot at work, it refused to start or idle at anything past full throttle. I saw there was a TSB out about the throttle body harness connector contacts losing contact and not giving the right readings back to the ECU, so I re-pinned the plug with gold-plated connectors to the tune of $60. 3 wires for $20 each, cut and doubled for the 6 wires to the plug, soldered into the main harness wiring, shrink wrapped and taped up myself. This instantly got the car running smooth again and bought me another 3000-4000 miles before the EPC light again popped up. Then in October, a full 3 months after buying the car, I received a letter from the state saying the title I'd submitted to them was invalid and that I'd need to submit the current title on record. WTF? I thought the dealer had taken care of that months ago, and the title was supposed to be sitting at my bank since they were the lien holder. Called my bank, they haven't received the title. WTF? They didn't really seem to care, either. Called the dealer, and the person who does vehicle title was not to be found. So basically, I don't own the car, my bank doesn't own the car, the dealer doesn't know what the gently caress and the actual legal owner is still whoever registered the car one state over, 20,000 miles and 2 1/2 years earlier. After calling the dealer almost every day the entire month of November, calling the police, calling the Iowa DMV, calling a Sheriff's office near Iowa City, I discover the vehicle had been been a repossession back in 2014. After the repossession, it was sold at auction once, sold at auction again, sold to the dealer, then sold 6 months later to me. It changed hands 3 times over the course of 18 months, and the title that followed the car was the original from before it had been repossessed. I take it that a new title with a sheriff's lien on it was created after the repo, and that was now the current legal title on record. Great, I'm going to have to go through hell to get this thing registered and it probably still has a lien on it despite nothing popping up on the Carfax. It runs like poo poo and I still owe $6,000 on it. I can't sell it to anyone, and if I get t-boned the insurance company won't pay out jack poo poo if I can't give them the title. I can go through a bonding process, but I'll need to plunk down 1.5x the car's value to sit over the course of 3 years in case someone comes to claim it as their car. Or I can get a lawyer. Called the dealership again and promised I'd take them to court if they didn't obtain and deliver the correct title. Told them the bank was on my rear end for the title, but that was a lie because really they couldn't care less. (wtf?) The dealer was having no luck getting the title from the people at the auction house, most likely since the sale had been 10+ months prior at this point and it had been through not one but two of them. I filled out, printed & faxed them a complaint form for the Secretary of State Police, and let the dealer know that failure to provide a title at the 6-month mark would turn from a misdemeanor to a felony. A day later I got a call from the owner of the dealership; "OK So what you want to do?" I'd like the proper title for my car, or all of my money back. "You're ridiculous, we can't possibly do that, you have been driving it this whole time" That's not my problem, you need to give me the title. "We have another CC here you can look at" No, either give me the title you owe me or void the sale completely. "OK we can't get the title actually, so what you want to do?" Give me all of my money back. That all took place a few weeks ago, and I turned the car in just before Christmas. Fortunately the throttle body wasn't acting up at that time, no EPC or CEL lit on the dash. They gave me a check for the money I'd put down, down the the penny, and they sent my bank a check for the original loan amount. The difference, the bank put into my savings. It was funny though, a few days after I took the CC off my insurance, the bank called me up telling me to put insurance coverage back on it immediately. I explained the situation to them, they agreed it was strange that as lien holders they hadn't even had legal claim to the car for the past 5 months. TL;DR: Due to a shady buy-here, pay-here dealership not having their poo poo together, I got what amounts to a 5-month rental for the $200 I'd paid in loan interest and maintenance. Dodged a bullet with the 2.0TSI's throttle body problems, and dodged the legal hassle of buying a car with a lien on it.
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Jan 4, 2016 16:54
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I totally agree with you, but all said and done I got exactly what I wanted: a) rid of the car b) all of my money back c) no court battle Ended up parlaying the cash I'd got back into a down payment on a Certified Pre-Owned '13 Golf R, this time from a reputable dealer and with a 24 month/24,000 mi warranty. Probably the best possible outcome out of all of this! Lesson learned; if you don't trust the seller, it's worth the $30 to run an independent check on the title.
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Jan 4, 2016 19:23
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willroc7 posted:Having an intermittent issue on my 2007 S4 where the EPC and traction lights will come on putting the car in limp mode. Reconnecting the throttle body wiring harness fixes it a week or longer (sometimes months). My guess is that the wiring on the connector is loose but all the wires seem intact. Throttle body itself was already replaced by the previous owner so it has no visible buildup on it. Cleaning the connector with contact cleaner and compressed air also seems to help, but it's hard to say for sure since the issue is intermittent. The car is JHM tuned and drives perfectly otherwise. Vagcom shows: I was having intermittent EPC issues that got worse and worse with my 09 CC's 2.0tsi, not sure if our motors have the same bits in common but maybe. Looking back at the car's service history, the throttle body had already been replaced once in it's lifetime. Since it was out of warranty, I was going to attack my issues in the order of cheapest and easiest to more complicated and expensive: 1) re-pin harness with gold plated connectors 2) clean any gunk out of throttle body 3) replace throttle body entirely. #1 instantly turned the engine from a shaking shuddering non-idling persistant EPC limp mode mess into running smooth as chocolate. This calm only lasted a few months though before the EPC/limp mode popped up again twice, but both times it went away after a dozen engine on-off cycles. Fortunately I was able to dump the car back at the dealer due to unrelated problems with paperwork, so I never did get the chance to dissect the throttle body.
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Jan 8, 2016 19:15
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spog posted:Genuine question: what? Drawing parallels to a story I'd heard a while back: Customer has a drive train warranty on a Nissan, and the slave cylinder goes out. Slave cylinder is located inside the bell housing of the transmission, so the transmission needs to come out. Nissan dealer won't honor the drive train warranty, as it only covers internal transmission components and not accessories. Customer pitches a fit because how is an integral part of the transmission, located inside the body of the transmission, which requires removal of the transmission to service, not considered part of the drive train? Nissan dealer eventually relents, I recall. In the story you're wondering about, it sounds like Nissan/Infiniti has placed the switch responsible for activating the auto-adjusting side mirrors (and possibly the reversing lights, camera system?) inside the transmission itself instead of somewhere more sensible.
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Jan 20, 2016 10:41
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iwentdoodie posted:I just love how you're like the only other person in this thread who appreciates anything older than MkV I've got a garage stuffed full of 90's VWs right now, It's just that I post about them as often as I work on them. The Passat wagon is the only one in driving condition at the moment, hopefully I'll get off my rear end in the new year and finish swapping parts from the Wrecked Red Jetta to the lovely Red Jetta. I've got a '13 golf as my daily, which only makes it easier to leave these sit around and rot. 
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Jan 31, 2016 11:50
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scuz posted:I want to find a beater VW with a manual and all-wheel/4-wheel drive but that "beater" part doesn't exist About the closest thing you'd find in North America, if you can find one, would be an 80's Quantum or 90's Passat with a Syncro system. After those, I can't think of any VWs that ticked both boxes until the Mk4 R32 came around.
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Feb 9, 2016 22:46
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If you're going to mix with water to top off, head to the grocery store for a gallon of distilled water, it's only like a buck fifty.
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Feb 13, 2016 21:21
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That's why man invented tow dollies. Parking illegally shouldn't give a tow operator carte blanch to negligently damage your car. Or maybe it does? I don't know, but a lawyer might. Probably depends on where you parked, if you had an expired meter or were blocking emergency access.
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Feb 27, 2016 06:23
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Cyrano4747 posted:Hey, they should be giving us a loaner, right? The service center is closed but my wife is chatting with some VW thing online (she wanted to see if we could schedule something for tomorrow without having to wait until they open) and they're saying that we can't get a loaner but they can hook us up with a special rate enterprise rental for $30/day. Keep trying for a loaner, $30/day isn't that great of a hook up.
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Mar 17, 2016 02:23
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I don't think it's fair to mislead, lie to, or willfully circumvent the rules of a regulatory agency, and at the same time do the same to your customers. If it were a $75 hoverboard from china, oh well, but these are substantially bigger purchases where expected resale value after depreciation is a large part of the deal and something a customer has some control over, e.g., want to sell your car for more down the line, take good care of it.
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Mar 26, 2016 04:22
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I've always wondered if unplugging the sensor and/or putting a jumper over the terminals would keep the dash light from coming on. I love me some Rain-X, and don't really need a sensor to tell me I'm out of fluid.
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Mar 29, 2016 17:45
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Are fluids and brake pads out of the question? Stock up on coolant concentrate, brake fluid and pads, synthetic oil, headlights, any consumable you reasonably think you'll need if you're keeping it long term.
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Mar 30, 2016 00:25
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veedubfreak posted:This reminds me, I need to change my insurance on the R since if some shithead totals it, I already know how long it takes to get a replacement. So.... did you?
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Apr 17, 2016 04:18
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Tab8715 posted:When it's said that VW/Audi Maintenance is expensive - which I'm sure it is - may we get a little specific? What kind of figures are we talking after four years? $500? $1000? $2,500? What sort of things break? What's are the typical gotcha's and worst case scenario? Specifically, I had an electronic throttle body going out intermittently on my 2009 2.0TSI. This part replaces the physical cable between your foot and the butterfly valve. Rock Auto has them starting at $260-$390, Autozone $460, who knows how much from a dealer. And of course there will be a few hours' labor, since you just about need to remove the front clip to get access. I'm sure every brand across the board uses an electronic throttle body now, but VAG cars seem to be the only ones having issues with it. (could be some confirmation bias, as an owner).
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May 2, 2016 06:18
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Doing plugs on a VR6. Simple job, right? Word of advice to anyone about to tackle this, do yourself a favor and buy/rent/3D print VW's plug connector removal tool. (unless you're keen on replacing all the wires as well) Nope, too big to fit and won't grip the boot.  Nope, can't get an angle and just tears at the boot.  Ahh here we are, now just wait a week for it to ship out... The plugs I pulled were gapped at .070", spec is .024". Was getting 24-26mpg commuting to work, but seemed down on power. Hopefully this gives the old girl some pep, or at least keeps her on the road another 40,000 miles.
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Jun 13, 2016 06:33
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DrChu posted:I messed up while changing the oil on my MKVI GTI and forget to bring the correct filter wrench with me, and I didn't notice until after I drained the oil. As I was not at home I had to put the new oil in without changing the filter. I've read in some tutorials for changing other things (like the intake manifold) where they say to remove the filter for clearance, and that draining isn't needed since the filter is on top of the engine and upside down. Will I be safe just taking the filter off and swapping in the new one, or will this be a disaster? You've got it. Think of it this way; the filter doesn't care if there's oil in the pan or not, especially since it's at the top of the engine. The old filter will retain some small amount of the old oil and it will mix with the fresh stuff if you put the old filter back on, (not like there isn't still some old oil residue in the passages and oil pan) just better form to change out both at the same time.
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Jul 17, 2016 10:58
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tropical posted:I've got a service dilemma here... my 2012 GTI (6-speed) is at 55k km and is due for an oil change; it's been a year, and I don't quite drive 15k km per year. It's due for an oil change after a year regardless of miles, I'd get it done. Especially if your low mileage is due to a short commute that doesn't let the engine get fully up to temp. No harm in getting the 60k service early, just keep track of the km's so you have it in mind for the next interval.
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Aug 4, 2016 20:11
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 Spotted a screaming deal parked at a niche used car dealership near my work; immediately pulled a U-turn and went in for a test drive. '11 Golf 2.5 5-speed coupe with 100k miles (on the nose) for $5.5k. My brother has been driving my 25-year old Passat the past year, and I've had my eye on getting him into something newer and more reliable. Due to some family circumstances, I like to help out when I can. 100k on the clock, body in decent shape save for some stone chips and a dent in the passenger side rocker. Dashboard lit up with 'Service Now!' and brake pad warning lights, but I was able to trigger the ABS on the test drive and the rotors didn't grind or feel warped. Light for the washer fluid was lit, but the wipers all worked. Interior was clean, steered and drove straight, 5-speed shifted smooth, engine purred at idle and pulled nicely from green lights. Even chirped the tires a little in 2nd gear. Coolant in the tank was full, but it was green insead of pink G12.  Dealer claimed they hadn't topped it off, so I'm going on faith that somebody else flushed the system and re-filled with conventional... I guess we'll find out later. Anyway, sold! Loaded up with new brake pads, brake fluid, an air filter, jug of oil, oil filter and some new plugs. The existing plugs, Bosch double-platinums, were still at .24 gap and looked about perfect so I opted to leave them in. Air filter was a bitch to get to, and the coating of armor-all the dealer's porter sprayed all over the engine bay & engine cover pissed me off. Seriously, gently caress that poo poo! Knocked the wheels off and took out the brake pads, which appeared to be the originals VW had installed in Germany.  The fronts were the same story, worn down drat near to the backing plate. The wear sensor pigtail even had VW/AUDI production stamps, which lead me to my conclusion above. The car is on it's second set of tires, seeing by the date stamp, but those too were worn down past the wear bars. Explains why I was able to chirp the tires earlier, and the small balance issue at 70mph. Oil change went well, except I couldn't get the god drat loving oil filter cartridge unscrewed. The belly pan was sawzall'd away for the oil filter (loving jiffy lube) and I bet the loving thing was tightened with an air gun. The oil pan was slightly caved-in and bore some rust where the paint flaked from a hit, but wasn't dripping or leaking. The rest of the underbody looked clean and unmolested.  All in all, it was refreshing to work on a car this new. Bleed screws turned without shearing off, fixing one thing didn't lead to discovering two more things that needed attention, and there were far fewer transgressions from previous mechanics. I will say this; even though they sold the car AS-IS and I had a chance to test drive it, I'm a little pissed they didn't so much as warn me about the bald tires and the 0% brakes. They took the time to shine the tires, so they knew about the tread condition. Yes it's on me to check the tread and I've already had them replaced, but I feel it's a legit ethical issue selling something with bald tires without a word of warning. Especially in the winter. It's day one and I'm into this car $400, which for the price I'm not mad about at all, but I'd totally recommend taking any prospective purchase to be checked out by mechanic. At the very least, you'll gain some leverage.  Found this in the glove box, now I've gotta find out where in the hell this Shell station is! edit: if any of you GTI/R owners start itching for more power, take a base model golf around town for a while. Getting back into something with a turbo is a treat. NoWake fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Jan 2, 2017 |
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Jan 2, 2017 08:32
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You all are over here dropping serious $ tuning your newer-than-mine R's and really squeezing out their performance, while I'm just making payments & racking up the miles. Mine's a '13 with 114k on it now, and all I've really done besides maintenance are tint job and lowering springs. Sometimes I feel like this car should go to someone who doesn't use it as a commuter - I'd be better off putting miles on a leaf or a prius or something. But then, it puts a smile on my face every day I drive it, which is every day, and in the end it's what matters. Snow tires just came off in favor of some  bling blingin' A8 Monoblocks. The stock wheels are getting sold off piecemeal as I'd seriously damaged one of them against a curb last November. (150/ea goon price if you want one, I have two. chicago area) 
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Mar 25, 2019 16:33
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VelociBacon posted:At that price keep your old wheels for putting snow tires on. If I could find someone selling one for what I'm asking, I'd have picked it up. Refurbished replacements retail between $250-$325+shipping, and I've already got a winter set. https://i.imgur.com/UzgQpc0.mp4 https://i.imgur.com/BVqtrXI.mp4 Can't really trust the tire to swap back onto a replacement, and the rest of the set has at most another season left before they're down to the wear bars, so I'd need a fresh set of rubber, quoted $550 installed for some Firestones. Add it all up plus tax, I'd be in around $900 for a new wheel & tires just to get the winters off this spring. The monoblocks I found with 4 fresh tires mounted for $700, so it was a no-brainer. I've already sold one of the OEM alloys, down to 2 now, so pretty committed on saying goodbye to them.
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Mar 25, 2019 20:56
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Continental extreme contact dsw "all seasons", 2015 vintage so not exactly hockey pucks, but down to about 30% left all around. Once I started sliding, knew I was gonna hit the curb no matter what. I cranked the wheel hard left and attempted to throttle out, instead of possibly launching straight over the curb then down the ditch & through the fence. The wheel hit the curb face-on, and the shock of the impact was sent sideways through wheel, bearing & control arm, trashing all 3. Limped 50' to a parking spot where I waited for a flatbed to take me 1 mile home, and watched 3 more cars pinball off the curbs in the exact same spot.
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Mar 26, 2019 00:38
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Residency Evil posted:This was my experience on my GTI as well. Fresh DWSes are decent tires, even in the winter. 5-10k in they're back to being normal all-season tires.  Well! I learned something today. I've got a D and a W showing, but no hint of an S in the tread blocks. I only knew about the wear bars.I did have these on thru the winter of '15/'16 and they were okaay, but had gotten dedicated snows the next winter.
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Mar 26, 2019 02:51
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I've probably dropped, lost & replaced enough of those little pop-in torx bits that fit in a socket to pay for a set of dedicated torx sockets and + rail to keep them on. The set of triple square sockets I picked up around $30 at Autozone have been useful, too.
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Apr 15, 2019 16:31
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Something Offal posted:Have you dropped them inside the engine bay and then resigned to never finding them? That is one of the most frustrating situations I've encountered working on a car, it hurts the fibers of my being. I rooted around on the bottom tray and found the bolt (happened to be visible through the very bottom of the front bumper), which I was really happy about because it would have eternally bothered me. Sliding around the bottom of the car forever. Ohh yeah. Last one had me dangling a phone from the charger cable mission-impossible style down between the intake and the block, recording with the flashlight on, to catch a glimpse of intake bolt #7 I thought must raptured itself to Wolfsburg on its way to the ground. Found it sitting pretty on the edge of the AC compressor's bracket, underneath the alternator, out of view even with the front clip slid out and all of the intake plumbing removed.
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Apr 15, 2019 17:35
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Deviant posted:
I can send out a set of 4 wheel locks + plastic caps, only catch is you've got to buy yourself a new key. Lost my key, & moved to longer lugs for spacers anyway.  PM me, or email at my username at the mail with the G if interested
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Apr 22, 2019 17:06
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Deviant posted:Any idea how much the new key would cost? I've got a set of locks on order already, but I can cancel if it's a big savings. I'd also need the plastic cap puller, dunno if you have that. My only hit for this lock key was on UK Ebay, GBP 17.70, and the cap puller is part # 6X0012243 around $2-$5 on Amazon/Ebay. My 4 bolts are all the 8-point star type, seen here; 
NoWake fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Apr 23, 2019 |
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Apr 22, 2019 20:13
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That's pretty bogus.. Glad you're finding out now instead of a flat tire turning into a week with a rental. If anything they should replace your locks with regular lugs. I went to the dealer to get a replacement key - they couldnt sell me one by itself without a set of locking lugs, but they could swap the locks out for regular lug bolts for $35 installed. I said cool, and got my car back 30 mins later. "Thanks a lot. Where did you put the locking lugs you took off?" VW: "We threw those away for you" "Can I have them? They're mine. It's not like they're broken, I just need to find the key I lost." VW: "I guess... but we'll have to dig them out of the trash for you" 
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Apr 23, 2019 02:16
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Baxate posted:So as a last resort can I at least disable the warning/sensor with an OBDEleven? You'll want to fix the leak if you drive anywhere with salted roads. OBDEleven can turn off the empty washer light though, useful if you use the wrong chemistry washer fluid and it messes up the sensor (I don't know if this is still a thing).
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May 1, 2019 15:31
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Proud Christian Mom posted:Some people actually put lots of highway miles on theirs for job purposes and gas can really add up Expense that poo poo!
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Aug 22, 2019 21:24
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SchrodingersCat posted:I am looking at picking up a used 2015 Golf R, 49k miles, $26,000. Three previous owners. The '13 R I picked up in 2015 was listed at 24k, had a few things going for it like a CPO warranty and only 1 previous owner to boot. Chicagoland. Not sure of your market either, but I'd say it's worth it to keep your eyes open. The difference might pay for your plane ticket & gas back home.
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Nov 4, 2019 03:44
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betterinsodapop posted:Question: does AWD help with rain/wet or is that more the realm of traction control and ABS? Honestly, the AWD hasn't helped me out in daily driving except when it's dumping snow and I'm 1st in line at a stoplight. When the light turns green, you just go. If you're behind someone and they're slipping and sliding, you're just going to follow them, going their speed. AWD doesn't help you out when your all-seasons are worn down to summer-only mode: /!\sound warning/!\ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-riVc0uLhI&t=23s It also doesn't help when other people drive too fast for conditions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6TrQzm4nEk&t=18s
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Nov 6, 2019 16:44
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betterinsodapop posted:Those road conditions are pretty bad, and not dissimilar to the way the roads get around here before the plows get out. Illinois up by the Wisconsin border - snow is a way of life up here (we got 7" the day before Halloween) so there's really no excuse for poor driving and poor tires. The suburban I'd imagine was headed straight, but didn't anticipate the Honda in front of them crawling through their right turn. So instead of rear-ending them, they decided to take chances going head-on with me...
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Nov 6, 2019 17:39
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wasey posted:I'm looking at 2013 SportWagens and have a question about the early maintenance records, or lack thereof. There are two wagons I'm looking at, both at ~40,000 miles, both with the TDI fix. One's CarFax record shows every 10k maintenance service done and one doesn't have any maintenance records at all. The one with the maintenance records is about $1,500 more than the one without any records (out the door price of the one with records is shy of $15k, dealer won't budge on pricing). Is it absolutely paramount that the 10k service was done this early on? My previous cars have been tanks from the 90s where the scheduled maintenance was a suggestion rather than something to really pay attention to. Thanks! If one's offered with a CPO warranty, I'd pick that one just for the peace of mind. As long as it's obvious the oil was changed a couple times in those 40k miles and the tires it's rocking are less than 5 years old, I feel like you should be OK to go with the one with no maintenance records. Little stuff like air filters and brake pads and just not writing them down are negligible compared to 40k miles of nothing being done at all. And that should be obvious if it wasn't. You might wanna factor in getting the brakes bled, the system can absorb a bunch of moisture after 7 years if it's never been done.
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Dec 31, 2019 18:25
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$15k is pretty steep to buy as-is, at least for my pocket. I'd counter them throwing one in if they want to make the sale. No benefit to buying off them compared to someone off the street who also wouldn't offer you a warranty... besides the available financing. For TDI sportwagens under 45k miles, I see 14 autotrader listings under $12k in a 200 mile radius of PDX
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Dec 31, 2019 19:35
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 19:01 |
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taqueso posted:pringles, the can fits in a cupholder. GTIs have cupholders now???
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Feb 3, 2020 21:37
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