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Seconding Tannoy and B&W, the 685s are great, though probably too new to be very easy to find used. I'd look for something like the B&W 601 S3 or Tannoy Sensys DC1. PSA: If you like NAD amps, don't combine them with Tannoys without listening to the combination first.
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Dec 6, 2015 00:44
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KillHour posted:http://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp-168ha-21-2x40w-mini-amplifier-1x68w-sub-output--310-308 Oh hey, that thing is pretty cool.
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Jun 23, 2016 03:41
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Not to mention that you can get better amplifiers in them than before too, Class D or Tripath vs a lovely AB with a too small powersupply (because space and heat constraints).
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Jul 3, 2016 22:22
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I'd go for a SVS sub, they're pretty insane. Somewhat more spendy, but IMO worth it.
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Jul 9, 2016 22:06
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What about DYNAMIC RANGE?! 
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Feb 27, 2017 19:50
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KozmoNaut posted:I hate this whataboutism trend Yeah, it was just too easy... GnarlyCharlie4u posted:HEADROOM! Well gently caress, that was what I was getting at. I'm bad. Back to the topic at hand: At normal listening levels, you'll rarely exceed a few watts of power, and the average power will often be <1W. But in properly mastered recordings (i.e. poo poo that isn't overly affected by the loudness war), you'll have portions of the track that will demand a lot more power "on tap". That's why good amps generally have well thought-out powersupplies with decent capacitor banks and transformers that can keep up with demand. You very rarely blow speakers by feeding them too much power, but it's exceedingly easy to do with an undersized amplifier if you don't pay some attention to what you're doing. As the amplifier peaks, it sends out square waves (DC of alternating polarity) that will fry tweeters in a hurry. A classic example is the old Cerwin Vega AL1000 paired with a single NAD 216 or 218, where they really need bridged 218's or 208's to survive being cranked to 11. I have a Trends TA 10.1 t-amp that I've paired up with a couple of Tannoy MX1 bookshelf speakers. The combo sounds pretty good, but you notice when it runs out of steam fairly quickly. Some of this is due to the Tannoys being relatively low sensitivity (87 dB/1W/1m IIRC).
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Feb 27, 2017 21:11
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KozmoNaut posted:
Good points. I'm rusty on analog electronics  However, the point about harmonic frequencies, doesn't this push more power into the high-frequency domain? and what is the power handling of, say, a soft dome tweeter vs a 15" woofer? Going back to my example about the AL1000's, what usually happened was that either the fuse for the tweeter blew, or the tweeter itself blew, as it couldn't handle the power being put through them.
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Feb 28, 2017 10:04
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Anyone got opinions on/experiences with dual concentric speakers?
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Feb 28, 2017 18:12
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You know you want to!
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Mar 3, 2017 19:01
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Scrapez posted:Thanks for the info. I have everything hidden away in a central closet in our house so it passes WAF. I figure for $20 apiece, I might as well grab them and figure out what to do with them later. Perhaps use all 3 to power an IB subwoofer setup in the next house. Or, if I can find a cheap matrix audio control unit, set them up for whole home audio distribution via ethernet. Overkill but would be fun to play with if I can do it on the cheap. At $20 a pop this is a complete nobrainer, buy them already!
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Mar 24, 2017 11:40
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1) almost no lower limit, you'll be fine. 2) you set the amp up for the speakers you have, 2.0, 2.1, 3.0, 3.1 etc etc doesn't matter much. Starting with 3.1 is a smart move, the front row (+ sub) is the most important bit for audio quality. The surround channels are cool too, but not as critical, at least not to start with.
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May 30, 2017 10:03
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:Is $139.99 a good deal for this sub? Probably? But the bar is pretty low at this point, and you'll probably upgrade later, which brings us to this: GnarlyCharlie4u posted:One thing you will never regret is spending the money on a proper sub like an SVS I bought an SVS SB12-Plus a while back and immediately regretted not just buying an SVS sub when they became available in Norway a few years ago, they knock pretty much everything else out of the water in their price class without breaking a sweat.
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Aug 1, 2017 22:42
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Olympic Mathlete posted:This is exactly the thing that makes me laugh about the loving AV industry, it's all a numbers game but the numbers are loving meaningless in most cases so finding a genuinely great product is really hard to do, particularly when speaker manufacturers tweak the figures so much. And people wonder why I just stick with Tannoy, SVS and higher-specced Pioneer* receivers... *My newest Pioneer is a VSX-1015 that isn't even HDMI, so... I dunno what I'd get now.
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Oct 6, 2017 16:43
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Yeah they're not the best bang for the buck by far, but they're the best bang for the bucks you pay for something you didn't make yourself. I'd really rather run an IB setup or one of those horn loaded subs, but they're hardly viable for a 750 sq feet apartment
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Oct 6, 2017 17:20
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Scrapez posted:I mean a flat pack from diysoundgroup.com and Stereo Integrity HT 18 v2 are probably the best budget bang for your buck if you're willing to go with DIY route. $275 for the subwoofer and enclosure. Then a Behringer inuke 3000DSP for $280. All in your under 600 bucks and have extra amp capacity if you want to build another. Yeah, I fully agree with you there. Sadly, I live in Norway and my options are more limited. I got an SB12-Plus for a few hundred dollars used, it's more than enough for my needs. The next time I move, I'm probably going for an IB setup with 4 or 5x18" in a suitably sized home theatre room 
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Oct 6, 2017 17:58
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I'm still using an old Pioneer VSX-1015 connected to my Samsung 4K TV via optical, works just fine. This upgradeitis a lot of people have is bullshit.
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Nov 6, 2017 14:24
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Olympic Mathlete posted:That's about the same era of Sony whatever the gently caress I have...  I'm sure lossless audio is better, and though I'm fairly picky on audio quality, I also spent a few years derping around the oceans as a sonar operator so my hearing isn't 100% anymore I am looking at upgrading, but not necessarily to the newest generation, I'd rather buy used and get more bang for the buck. E.g. a Pioneer LX-52 or 72 or thereabouts.
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Nov 8, 2017 08:30
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Your lack of faith in dual concentric speakers is disturbing 
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Dec 8, 2017 00:40
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Worth trying the SVS SoundPath isolating feet or a subwoofer platform. Can confirm that these works wonders. One would think that dampening feet wouldn't make a real difference for a sub, but in practice it goes a long way to decouple the sub from the room, thus bothering neighbours a lot less. I moved from a freestanding house to an apartment block and I haven't had any noise complaints despite rocking it pretty hard at times.
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Dec 10, 2017 13:02
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veiled boner fuel posted:I think a lot of the "ported subs are boomy" came about from cheap drivers and cheap manufacturers. Like if you're going to make a lovely sub you're going to port it just to get the efficiency bump. That doesn't mean ported subs are inferior in any way. You can compare the driver to a motor and the amplifier to a controller trying to steer the motor precisely. A cheap driver tends to have a lot of moving mass compared to magnet/coil motor strength and will objectively tend to sound worse no matter what you do in a ported enclosure. You can mask some of this in a sealed enclosure because of the inherently better damping*, but it's still going to be meh when you push it. The same effect can be observed by pairing a good driver with an undersized amplifier. As you push the limits of what the amplifier can output, it will lose control over the driver and you get distortion in various forms. *This is my intuitive understanding, it's by no means entirely accurate.
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Feb 10, 2018 13:29
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Get a used SVS instead?
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Apr 15, 2018 23:21
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Get a used SVS instead of that thing, it looks like a pile of poo poo.
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May 20, 2018 11:35
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Find a used SVS woofer and build yourself a tube sub, problem solved. It's not rocket science, folks. Acoustics is way worse.
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Jun 12, 2018 16:34
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Matt Zerella posted:I'm getting kind of sick of my Elac B6 being too boomy when I listen to music. I have a Denon s910w for a receiver . Is it worth it trying to stuff the ports or do I need to step up? I use it for music and movies. Thought about going with a set of KEF Q100s but prices brand new seem kind of insane at 500$. The front port seems nice to me since they would be sharing a wall with the bedroom. Put socks in the ports and see how it affects the sound? Takes all of 5 minutes to try
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Sep 29, 2018 15:35
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Matt Zerella posted:No sub. I'm an apartment dweller and trying to be a good neighbor. 3.0 system. 2 ELAC B6 as L/R and a C5 center. It's fine for TV and movies can get a little boomy but it's not too bad but music just sounds muddy as all hell and it uses stereo (Apple Music from my Apple TV, Denon is set to auto so it switched from multi in to stereo). Have you tried stuffing the ports with socks yet?
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Oct 1, 2018 21:36
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I just got an ELE EL-D01 USB DAC/soundcard from eBay. Having a pretty low-rent setup (small Trends T-amp, old Tannoy speakers, high-level signal to an SVS sub and using the audio output from a monitor etc), this is a nice little upgrade. Going to test it with my headsets this weekend, and depending on that I might get one to keep at the office too
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Nov 2, 2018 16:50
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yaffle posted:Hmmm, my budget is smallish and I don't need a remote, will that little thing really work? Here's a review: https://www.headfonia.com/review-smsl-ad18/
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Nov 3, 2018 19:47
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All 5.1 receivers support that, AFAIK.
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Nov 27, 2018 15:03
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Buy the fronts and a sub first. Look at SVS for subs. $1000 for a complete system will be very so-so unless you get really lucky with used components.
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Dec 27, 2018 17:40
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My point is: get the amplifier, fronts and sub first, then save up some more money and get the rears later.
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Dec 27, 2018 17:53
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derk posted:Ok, besides Klipsch then, what are some other recommendations? I like the SVS subs but hot drat they are pricey. Pay once, cry once. You could look into getting a used one?
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Dec 27, 2018 18:53
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Yeah, it'll work.
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Dec 28, 2018 16:05
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Save up some more money then, a good subwoofer lasts for years, while you'll want to replace a poo poo one pretty soon. Buy cheap, buy twice. Or as a friend is fond of saying: Pay once, cry once. You should look at the used market as well.
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Jan 9, 2019 08:36
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KillHour posted:It's supposed to be "Buy once, cry once." It rhymes - that's why it's a saying. Tell your friend I hate them. I'll pass that along My only cheap hifi buy is annoying me now, and I'm going to have to buy a new set of fronts for my living room due to my bad choices when I moved last. Sigh. Granted I only wasted $150 or so, but still.
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Jan 9, 2019 12:56
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Tannoy, Dali and B&W are widespread in Norway and you can usually find some good deals on Finn.no. All of those brands should pair up decently with that Pioneer as well.
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Jan 29, 2019 19:15
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How much did you end up paying? The B&W 601 S3 are solid speakers, you can't really go wrong with them.
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Jan 29, 2019 21:17
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When it comes to subs, the answer is pretty much always SVS.
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Feb 9, 2019 19:50
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KillHour posted:If you can afford to and don't want to build your own, yes I'd agree. There are certainly other fine options out there, though. Yeah, they're not anything special, they just tend to be very good for the price, especially if you find one used. There are certainly other options out there, especially DIY if you're not all thumbs and know how to do basic woodworking.
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Feb 9, 2019 21:34
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I live in the third floor of an apartment building, have an SVS 12" sub and zero complaints from neighbours. AMA In all seriousness, subs are fine but you should have dampening feet for it. SVS has one type for sale, Auralex also makes sound dampening pads. But in the $100-200 range, I don't think I'd even bother.
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Mar 14, 2019 16:01
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Wasabi the J posted:Hey guys, I cannot simply rebuild my house for acoustics. pls help. Have an industrial accident so you have to remodel
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Oct 20, 2019 01:00
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