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It's not entirely an apples to apples comparison if you're talking low light performance, you also have to take into account the lens ecosystem/availability of IBIS. Sony offers stabilisation on its 35mm and 50mm APSC primes and I think all of the zooms, while Fuji doesn't offer it (or IBIS) on any of its primes, or its flagship pro zoom. With the A7ii you also get the option for IBIS, which while not quite as nice as in-lens stabilisation does give you a couple of stops, which you can use with the FE primes (none of which offer OIS) or legacy glass. With Olympus you also get IBIS across the board, although a noisier m4/3 sensor. If Fuji offered IBIS I reckon I'd switch in a heartbeat, without it it's a lot murkier of a choice for me, and inertia/investment keeps me with Sony for the time being. I've had the higher res sensor come in handy with a paid gig doing copystand work (digitising some A1 sized architectural blueprints), I would be kind of bummed out to lose that capability. I'm also a little leery of adding another step to my workflow to deal with the X-Trans processing. OTOH I'm not really in love with the 24-70 OIS despite it being my main lens, and I'm pretty envious of Fuji's selection of primes, not to mention their commitment to producing a quality system for photographers, rather than Sony's approach of just shotgunning out bodies and leaving lenses as an afterthought. Anyhow, the best camera is the one you have on you, so have a pano from Friday
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# ¿ Jun 8, 2015 00:21 |
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# ¿ May 14, 2024 16:01 |
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curried lamb of God posted:Nah, I'm just an embassy contractor, so I don't get any sweet PX deals. Gotta make friends with those Marine guards.
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# ¿ Aug 11, 2018 09:42 |
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cheese posted:People on ebay are still trying to get 900-1k despite the new price only being a hundred more. You looking at completed auctions, or just existing ones? People ask all kinds of whack prices hoping to get lucky with someone who hasn't done their homework or needs it in a hurry, averaging the last month or two's completed auction prices gives a much better idea of market price. SMERSH Mouth posted:I'm a Fuji user and love it but if someone is thinking about hopping into a completely new system I'm not seeing a big price difference between the Fuji and Sony lens lineup. Looking at B&H.. That is interesting food for thought - I currently shoot Sony and was considering jumping ship to Fuji, in part because Sony's higher end gear is so out of reach for my budget. I get your point about using the slower Sony equivalent to compare given the larger sensor, though as a 24-70 f/4 owner I have a feeling the Fuji 16-55 is a much less optically compromised lens. Don't get me wrong, I like mine for what it is and I probably use it the most, but I'll never love it.
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# ¿ Aug 17, 2018 07:27 |
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Xabi posted:My dream camera is a “tough” one with a big sensor and no zoom. Sadly it will never happen. There's that waterproof Nikon mirrorless (has at least one prime lens), but I don't know that the sensor qualifies as 'big'.
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# ¿ Aug 22, 2018 00:46 |
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underage at the vape shop posted:if you have a small screwdriver and its just a normal ribbon cable, you can probably fix that yourself if you can find the part. Yeah, definitely. If you're going to do more repairs or DIY stuff, I still have my set of Wiha drivers from ten years ago and they are excellent.
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# ¿ Aug 29, 2018 08:38 |
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That's interesting... I sold my OG 5D and 24-70L to switch to the A7 not too long after it came out, but have been kicking around the idea of getting back into Canon recently because I'd like to pick up paid gigs, and the glass is so much more affordable. The A7 has been great for hobbyist use and I love using all manner of manual focus lenses on it, but the native Sony pro glass is really pricey (especially since it does't have literally decades of secondhand stuff available) and is basically just an A-mount lens with an FE adapter built in, so you lose a lot of the advantage of its small size.
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# ¿ Sep 1, 2018 04:42 |
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Wengy posted:gently caress, I’m really nervous about the future of MFT now Just when I’d fallen in love with the 12-100. Pretty sure that lens will keep working regardless of what camera companies do.
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# ¿ Sep 1, 2018 12:18 |
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rio posted:Hey guys, I’m selling all of my Fuji gear if anyone is interested. It’s all up in the buy/sell thread. It was a tough decision because I had a lot of lenses and really loved the X-T2 but I feel like I’m not bringing it out much, stopped doing virtually any paid work because it was both soul crushing and I am not good with business stuff I guess. But I actually really miss my old X100. I was toying with the idea of getting an OG X100 because one came up for sale near me relatively cheap - it's certainly a decent camera, but it does lack the XTrans sensor which I know a lot of Fuji shooters like, as well as the Classic Chrome setting which is also popular. OTOH the later ones are a bit more dear than what I'd be willing to pay for what'd ultimately just be an experiment at this stage.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2018 07:49 |
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rio posted:as weird as that might sound because focusing by wire is just not the same as mechanical focusing on old lenses. Not weird at all - IMO focus by wire is useless garbage and I don't know that I've heard anyone say they like it more than a mechanical zoom ring.
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# ¿ Sep 5, 2018 22:07 |
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harperdc posted:I don’t think they’re mothballing it, the M50 if anything has been such a success they are hopefully seeing it’s worthwhile to invest. And along with the EOS R they also announced a 32mm 1.4 prime lens which looks like it could be good as well. But the difference versus buying one of the lower-end EOS DSLRs is there isn’t any growth room for lenses, besides “adapt the EF lenses.” Which is okay for some - I have a couple decent EF lenses and they work shockingly well on my M3 - but not for new users coming in without gear. Harper lives in Japan, should we tell him guys?
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2018 21:51 |
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HorribleAvatar posted:Does anyone here have any experience adapting older manual focus macro lenses to Sony, I have an A73. I had been looking at one of the Canon 50mm 3.5 S.S.Cs locally but it sold before I got there earlier today. This will be my first macro lens so I was looking to save a little money before buying an newer autofocus lens. Thanks in advance. Yeah, with focus peaking + magnification it's great. I just picked up an FD 70-200L f/4 for an upcoming trip to New Zealand - have the Sony 55-210 OSS but image quality is absolute garbage (the main reason I still have it is that I'd feel guilty selling it to anyone...), and there's no way I'm paying for the 70-200 OSS. Wish I had a later model A7 body with IBIS (I've got the OG A7) but still very happy with it. The Micro Nikkors are cheap, plentiful, and good, shouldn't run you more than $60 or so on eBay. Easily one of the best bang-for-buck purchases I've made in photography, opens up an entirely new type of shooting. Edit: here are some photos from the other day, 1st two are from FD 70-200, last one is Macro Nikkor Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Oct 6, 2018 |
# ¿ Oct 6, 2018 22:09 |
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HorribleAvatar posted:Thanks for the advice I'll look into those, mainly the reason I wanted the Canon 50 was that it looked small and light so that I could take it hiking with me. Are those hedgehog spines in the last pic? Yeah, the Nikkor is pretty reasonable in terms of weight as well. I paid slightly more for one with the extension tube but I never use it and wouldn't miss it. Echidna!
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# ¿ Oct 7, 2018 09:20 |
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Verman posted:The iii series cameras all have the bigger better battery but they're not cheap and aftermarket competitors have just started coming out and are decent but not quite the same. It will probably be a little while before they catch up. I used 2 Sony batteries for a wedding I just shot a few weeks back. I drained the one and maybe used about three quarters of the other. I shot about 1,000 photos over the course of the day and was shooting about 10 hours. Yeah, that is the issue for me. I really like my A7 as a hobbyist camera (especially using older MF glass), but have been considering getting back into the occasional odd paid wedding and was thinking I'd need to switch back to Canon - the Sony glass is just so expensive (like you said, owing to not having literally decades of second copies floating around). Are you finding the AF stuff on adapters performs well enough to use for weddings? I do miss my old 24-70L f/2.8...
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# ¿ Oct 8, 2018 23:36 |
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tino posted:Are you guys planning to move out of flickr? The price has done up. It's not that expensive but I would like to keep my options open. Old fart post coming in: I'm definitely not renewing it (think it auto-upped for 2 years back in August though) - it's long dead as a viable community and 'interestingness' has kinda always been a worthless algorithm. I started using it 12 years ago because at the time it was the only game in town - I think smugmug technically was an option but the name/logo, fugly design, and photo-dad vibe were really offputting to me as a uni student, and I had no interest in their pro features for selling prints or whatever. Flickr had some cool and useful communities, and when I studied overseas I actually went to some Flickr meetups, which was a great way to break the ice and meet local people with a shared interest, not to mention find out about some cool locations/events to shoot I otherwise wouldn't have known about. The stats were/are a great feature as well, was always interesting to see what people looked at, and how they found it. I think Flickr results ranked pretty well on GIS - I actually sold a photo to WSJ Magazine because the author wanted to use it for an article and reached out. Pools/groups or whatever could be really useful and the discussion boards could be great little micro-communities - could answer questions about stuff like film cameras, lenses, etc. I still use them (via Flickrriver) when I want to look at stuff from a single lens. Cons: Those irritating bling badges and white noise comments on photos. Flickr does have a seedy/creepy underbelly but it was very easy to ignore the existance of it. 500px and Insta have basically killed the site though, when I stumble across a community there are usually a handful of recent uploads (and mothballed discussion threads). I've started using Instagram recently after holding out for a *long* time but it's terrible in its own, arguably worse ways. It is a much more atomised, isolated experience: I don't get any sense of community or discussion on stuff, and my feed feels like it is overrun with accounts marketing gear rental, accessories, and the like (this might be my fault for searching for gear hastags, the way I'd use a Flickr group to check out what people were doing with certain equipment). The lifestyle porn and people trying to become 'influencers' is really offputting, but easy enough to just roll my eyes and move on. It's irritating as hell to have to do that workaround to post non-phone photos. I would happily pay for a more photographer-centred community site without all the marketing and other BS, but that internet seems to be dying off (see also: SA). I think 500px was supposed to be something like that, but from what goons and other reviews say, the stuff that does well there is not stuff I enjoy. I am looking to get back into part-time pro work in the near future, ultimately I think I am going to have a folio site and use Instagram for current work to promote myself. As far as a community I'll probably keep on with the Dorkroom as long as it's going, although a lot of my favourite posters don't really post here no more, or don't post work (which I'm also guilty of). Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Dec 3, 2018 |
# ¿ Dec 3, 2018 11:53 |
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a7rII is supposed to be decent too, right? Thinking about buying one sometime down the road, already snagged the Sigma adapter when a cheap one came up for sale locally. I have an OG A7 which is supposed to be pretty much unusable, no EF glass to test with yet. I miss a lot of the Canon lenses I used to shoot with, and Sony's prices are pretty out of reach for me as a hobbyist (well, they're not far off the other manufacturers, but there's a much more limited market given how long E-mount has been around relatively speaking)
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# ¿ Apr 17, 2019 09:53 |
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Encrypted posted:Yep the a7rii would work great due to its focusing setup. 24-70L mk1 for starters, miss that thing!
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# ¿ Apr 17, 2019 22:04 |
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Laserface posted:a recent sale got my interest and Im thinking of jumping ship to Sony with the a6500. How does the A6500 fare with the Metabones adapter? Might be a good way to keep your EF macro if you are happy with it. There's also the FE 50mm macro which isn't that much more expensive than your EF one.
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2019 05:52 |
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As someone who has a number of old manual focus lenses on adapters I can't say I care about aperture rings in the slightest, but focus-by-wire is absolutely wretched.
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# ¿ May 6, 2019 12:55 |
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dakana posted:A brief trip report: I sold my 5D3 and 6D and bought an A7RIII and a Sigma MC-E11. Yeah, a tilting LCD is one thing I never knew I needed until I got my NEX-3 all those years ago, won't buy a camera without it now. Does the Metabones work any better with the 70-200 2.8? I agree that the prices on Sony glass are eye-watering, stinks not having the 30 year pool of secondhand glass that EF does. Out of curiousity, what do you shoot with if not a 24-70 2.8 for weddings? Just primes?
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2019 03:11 |
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Here's to hoping A7rII owners start selling their cameras to upgrade...
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# ¿ Jul 16, 2019 23:28 |
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Dangerllama posted:We have a praying mantis making its home outside how do I convince my wife to let me buy a macro lens tia. You can pick up an old Nikon 55mm f/3.5 macro for like $40-60 on eBay, and an adapter for not much more. Dollar for dollar you can't really beat that in terms of quality and opening up new types of photography.
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# ¿ Aug 19, 2019 10:09 |
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spongepuppy posted:Just to chime in here, if you plan on using a lot of adapted manual-focus lenses then get the A7ii over the A7, which has a lovely plastic-backed mount that flexes all over the place and has a good deal of play. The mount on my A7ii is dramatically better than my A7's, and the IBIS is loving magical. Can't say I've ever noticed anything with the mount on my A7, but yeah, the A7ii is a decent bump up in terms of specs.
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# ¿ Sep 30, 2019 13:19 |
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Babysitter Super Sleuth posted:If you think M10 birthday girl is infuriating, it was apparently in style for a bit in Hong Kong and other nearby cities to have a M9 without a lens mounted hanging off you as a fashion accessory No lie, if I had the money, I would do this to troll people.
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# ¿ Oct 21, 2019 08:15 |
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I know you Fuji nerds are mostly *yawn* at the tilt screen but now I'll actually consider one when secondhand ones come down in price in like 3-4 years. It's just such a useful feature to have for getting different perspectives, shooting over your head, etc. https://www.fujirumors.com/exclusive-fujifilm-x100v-with-2-way-tilt-screen/ According to this survey 20% of Fujirumors readers actually would prefer a fixed screen. What? Like, just don't tilt it if it bothers you?
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# ¿ Feb 5, 2020 08:43 |
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Biscuitbeard posted:Hmm, for photogrammetry is high res really that relevant? I use Photoscan for the odd 3d thing and I usually use medium or high dense cloud quality - that scales the source photos to either 50% or 25% of original. Using the full resolution massively slows things down. That's the standard advice for general photography, but if you don't mind manual focus (for a static subject this may be less of an issue) you can get a 50mm prime of yesteryear for peanuts, and use it on an adapter. Stopped down it'll be tack sharp, and still pretty usable wide open. I know basically nothing about photogrammetry though, so this advice may not be valid. But if I was looking to do something like copy work (which photogrammetry seems somewhat adjacent to) I'd go A7rii + cheap, good manual prime. You can pretty much take your pick of the OEM 50mm f/1.8 primes from major systems - ideally a more modern one with multicoating though. Don't pay more than US$50. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Mar 23, 2020 |
# ¿ Mar 23, 2020 08:02 |
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Just treated myself to a used X100F - first new camera body in 6 years (have been using an OG Sony A7 since it came out, which is on its last legs) I have been a bit of a skeptic of the X100 series since launch (mostly on the basis of cost, and not using the 35mm focal length much), but have found myself almost completely uninspired to go out and take photos the last few years. Not sure if it's because of being busy with my job, tired of my janky A7, or just placated with my OK smartphone camera, but I seldom pick up my camera and actually go out to deliberately take photos anymore. When I do, like for a friend's wedding, I get really into it again and remember how much I enjoy shooting, but it's hard to make myself take that first step of actually taking my camera out. Since I know the X100's have a reputation in particular for being a "photographer's camera" and enjoyable to use, I thought I ought to give it a try - worst case I can sell it at a modest loss in a few months. My initial impressions are pretty positive as far as handling, although I do find it annoying I can't seem to get thumbnails for RAF's in Win 10 unless I pay US$10 for some third party software. At the moment I don't know how likely I am to use the OVF much because I'm finding I'm missing focus a lot, but probably need to play around with the setting a bit more and figure things out properly.
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2020 04:07 |
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qirex posted:In two years I’ve used the OVF maybe three times just to try it out. People who like it talk about being able to see stuff coming into frame and it feeling more “live” but I have a feeling that’s mostly film idolatry. Animal posted:On the X100T it’s good for panning shots and some low light stuff but I imagine the newer models with updated EVF’s perform well enough for that The camera seems to be defaulting to it (full disclosure: I have not read the manual or looked anything up yet) so I'll have to look into finding ways to get it default more to the EVF. Maybe it's a battery saving thing? Personally I do see the appeal - I shot a lot with a Bessa rangefinder in my early 20s and the overlay is really slick. And as you say, it's nice to be able to see the stuff outside the frame - lets you reframe without having to move the camera around exploratively, or wait for a subject to enter the sensor's FoV. But without having an actual RF patch or some other way to confirm focus I'm not confident in what I shoot with it. It's a really cool, futuristic design though - is the X-Pro1 hybrid EVF/OVF similar? (I assume the EVF is not as nice given its age.) The tilting LCD of the X100V really appeals to me coming from Sony as I found I used it a tonne, but the price of a new one of those (AU$2200) versus the AU$800 for my secondhand X100F made it an easy decision. I forgot to mention: the leaf shutter on this thing is unbelievably quiet. It makes the A7 sound like a bloody freight train. Having no luck connecting it to my phone with the Fuji app but from lurking this thread that's not entirely surprising lol
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2020 07:38 |
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Dr. Klas posted:Are the Fuji X-series having more issues than other cameras? The reason I ask is because since I started looking into getting one I started noticing threads and posts on various forums with different electronical issues. Or is this just my confirmation bias? I remember the original x100 had an issue w sticky aperture blades, dont think it was an issue for any others. One low effort thing that may work on that XT-20 is taking the battery out and letting it sit for a long time (weeks/months) so that the little internal battery also dies, which may reset whatever is keeping it bricked. Otherwise see if you can find a way to enable USB debugging and see if you can do a factory reset that way. Of course, it may be physically damaged (water often the culprit) which is a completely different kettle of fish. If you wind up getting nowhere with it, eBay is the best place to find someone looking for a parts camera.
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# ¿ Jan 4, 2021 21:12 |
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Became a member of the X-mount posse this weekend - drove about 3 hours north for a Gumtree purchase of an X-H1 (surprisingly rare secondhand in Australia right now and around me in particular) which my partner and I turned into a nice little country drive + overnight trip. Haven't had much of a chance to play with it yet but initial impressions are positive, the grip is nice and chunky and feels good in the hand, shutter is surprisingly quiet, and all around feels pretty nice and robust. The touch screen is pretty novel and I could see this being a great camera for street/candids, was not expecting to be able to pinch to zoom in review mode which is a fun surprise. It came with the 18-55 (also pretty thin on the ground at the moment) which seems as decent as people say. I picked up a 35 1.4 last year because it was local to me and dirt cheap - wouldn't mind a quieter focusing motor on that one but it's not as bad as some of the "swarm of bees" consumer lenses I remember from my earlier days in photography. I am coming from an original A7 that I've had pretty much since launch and is beat to hell (back LCD is busted as is the ISO dial from a fall in New Zealand a couple years ago) - am planning to keep it for copy work and as a backup body if I ever go back to FE mount, but planning to sell off the rest of my native Sony glass. Submarine Sandpaper posted:For night shooting look back at oly. They're out of thr game for new cameras but live composit shooting is pretty sweet for night light sources like fires or star trails. You'll be gaining a lot of bulk with FF lenses. Yeah, IBIS is nice and can help do away with needing a tripod. You can also get pretty creative with bracing the camera against things. I'm not really familiar with Oly's alphabet/roman numeral soup but their higher end body (EM?) might be a good choice - not the smallest and lightest but is weathersealed and robust. If you are a weight weenie then look at the Pen bodies maybe. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 08:34 on Jan 10, 2021 |
# ¿ Jan 10, 2021 08:30 |
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Ihmemies posted:Maybe the adapter is too thick and the lens can't focus to infinity because of that. Personally all chinese adapters I have seen are badly out of spec. I've never had one out of spec, across like 15 years and several systems. I did have one come unscrewed and dump my Pen 42mm f/1.2 onto the ground and break it though, that wasn't fun.
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# ¿ Jan 20, 2021 10:51 |
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Dauher posted:Is a Fuji xh1 still a good buy? I know they've been discontinued, and I've got a lead on one for about 680 body only. I think that's a pretty good price. They've gotten quite tricky to find here in Australia for some reason, very few popping up used on eBay. I picked one up locally a few weeks ago as my first X-mount camera. Coming from an beat-up, 7 year old A7 it feels incredibly sturdy, well-made, and well-thought out. Especially if IBIS appeals to you I'd say go for it, though fair warning I have no idea about video (don't care about it). The only other Fuji body with IBIS right now AFAIK is the X-T4, and the X-Tx series seem to hold their value; if I was lucky-ish might have gotten an X-T2 for what I paid for my XH-1, and it's a fair bit more camera if you don't mind the somewhat bigger size. It feels good in my large-ish hands I really like having the dials and the screen at the top with settings. My A7 is actually smaller which is a little surprising considering it's full-frame, but in practice it doesn't really make much of a difference. If you're not a prime snob, the Fuji 18-55 is a great starter lens, far ahead of other factory kit lenses I've used. With a few exceptions in the very low end stuff Fuji seems to not bother making trash - even the factory strap is comfy enough I don't see a need to upgrade. I had the 16-55 on my wishlist but from the reviews I've seen it's really a pretty marginal upgrade, will probably only do it if a great deal comes along. For primes: 7 artisans makes native X-mount lenses that are manual focus that are regarded as being quite good for the money. I would especially use a modern manual lens if you were looking to go wide. For portrait/macro you can dig into old glass - I really liked my Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 on my A7 and am keen to see what it can do on the X-H1 once the adapter arrives. You might also grab an old 50mm f/1.4 for portraits, but the 7 artisans equivalent might be fine and even cheaper.
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2021 06:53 |
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Just checking - is there any way to get Win 10 to render thumbnails for Fuji RAF files? (X-H1 and X100F in particular).
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2021 21:13 |
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The Lone Lemon posted:I use adapted glass for the long telephoto end (everything over 56mm). The Fuji telephoto stuff is pricey, and I honestly was not blown away by the 55-140, or whatever it is. So that's my suggestion if you need something long on a budget. BTW drat you, I'd decided not to grab an FD adapter for my 70-200 f/4 L in my initial order, but now I've got one winging its way here from China. Lusername posted:It was a while ago but I believe installing this is what worked for me with my X-T20's RAF files. It works, thank you! (Also thanks dakana for the heads up on SageThumbs)
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2021 22:47 |
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Kind of a shame that Fuji has really eaten their lunch in the “cheap” medium format space. "Cheap" has never really been a market segment that Hasselblad has aimed for, tbf.
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# ¿ Feb 7, 2021 21:12 |
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Wrr posted:Looking for goon recommendation on a camera and starting here. Depends on the size of your minifigs, but the larger the sensor on the camera, the more shallow the depth of field (in other words, tricker to get everything in focus). For most users, a larger sensor is preferable, as the shallow DoF is what gives portraits that "DSLR" look, with the eyes/face/person in focus and the background all blurry. It sounds like you might have the opposite needs - getting the whole minifig in focus. As you get closer to the subject, DoF narrows, which is why pictures of bugs and stuff will have an almost razor-thin slice in focus. To an extent you can address this by stopping down the aperture of your macro lens (which will require more light to compensate, not too hard if you set up a little mini studio) but there are actually advantages to going with a micro-4/3 in your case, or even a really nice phone camera. The Micro Nikkor mentioned by someone else a few posts up is a solid recommendation: very affordable and high quality (only con is manual focus, but not a big issue for still life). You would not need the extension tube accessory for it at the size you're probably shooting, which will save you a bit of money. I'd probably go with a secondhand Olympus pro body (I don't shoot Oly so not super familiar with the model names/conventions), kit zoom, and the aforementioned macro. You'd also want to look at a few lights/modifiers, I'd probably go with hotlights (continuous bulbs or LEDs) rather than flashes.
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# ¿ May 14, 2021 23:54 |
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stephenthinkpad posted:I was thinking off the old Panasonic lx7/lx3 and their Leica twins. When you realise their biggest fanbase is cashed up boomers it starts to make more sense.
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# ¿ Jul 23, 2021 21:03 |
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sildargod posted:I managed to get that Tamron 180mm at $150 which is absolutely brilliant for the price. That first image is great! For shots like the second one, try focus bracketing; set focus to manual and do a burst while moving the focus ring in and out around where you think your subject will be.
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2021 10:39 |
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Fools Infinite posted:Voigtlander does make good (I mean in the technical sense not in the artistic/character/look sense) lenses, like their apo-lanthar lenses, but their fast manual primes have been pretty weak, especially at the maximum aperture. Google turns up a review that says the 7artisans f0.95 is sharper than the voigtlander wide open. I couldn't find a good review with a clear comparison between the loawa and the 7artisans, but some people said one or the other was sharper, but the loawa is probably better corrected. If we're thinking of the same lens I found a few reviews comparing the Laowa and 7artisans 0.95, most gave the edge to the latter (cheaper, better build quality, IQ roughly the same or maybe even slightly better on the 7artisans, can't remember exactly). I'm sort of tempted, I've got a Canon 50 1.2 LTM already, but it's a bit of a dog wide open.
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# ¿ Aug 16, 2021 09:59 |
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Yeah, I love the sensor on my d810 but the focus is so shoddy (the 150K shutter count might have something to do with it) and the whole package so bulky. It does feel like medium format detail level, especially when compared to the scan quality I usually get for my 67’s negatives. And the dynamic range is even better. I'd probably stick with Fuji rather than invest in an entirely new lens ecosystem (I say this as someone currently standing athwart both of those systems...). For your landscape shots, you could try getting a Nodal Ninja or similar panorama head and stitching - a goon pro photographer I know did this to great effect with his Olympus and a 25mm prime. He was selling big (1m+) prints to dentists, doctors, etc for their waiting rooms. OTOH you can get some cheap glass for the Sony if you're willing to go manual focus; most of those cheap 50mm f/1.8 primes from any major system are going to be tack sharp at f/8.
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# ¿ Sep 6, 2021 09:08 |
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# ¿ May 14, 2024 16:01 |
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windex posted:Hello again thread, it's been several years. If you can front the cash, buy the gear secondhand where it's further down its depreciation curve. If cost is a factor the 16-55 is really only a marginal upgrade from the 18-55 kit lens. I didn't want it to be true (my old 5D + 24-70L outfit was probably my favourite all time combo and was hoping to recreate that in a smaller package), but reading reviews and looking at the comparison shots I really can't argue with it. It's not that the 16-55 is bad, but the kit lens is that good. You can bring its cost down further by buying it in a combo with the XT3. I don't use my 56mm f/1.2 very much but it seems to be pretty competent. I went with an X-H1 rather than an XT2 or 3 because I wanted IBIS, which to me is a really useful feature even though I don't do any video. There is supposed to be an X-H2 coming out in the near future, might be worth considering if IBIS matters to you; would be particularly handy if you were shooting your M-mount lenses on an adapter. edit: you might also consider Sony; most of the Sony glass is quite expensive compared to more established systems, but the A7II onwards are supposed to be quite decent at autofocusing with adapters (there are pros using them for weddings). That'd make for a great platform to use your M-mount lenses on too. I am sorta waiting for tha A7rII prices to drop off so I can scoop one up; it'd be a great platform for old manual glass, not to mention all the great, relatively affordable EF glass out there. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Sep 25, 2021 |
# ¿ Sep 25, 2021 03:43 |