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SRQ posted:Time for a blast to the past, and I don't mind if nobody knows a solution to this considering I barely use this computer, but I would like to get it to run at 100% if possible: It probably can't run a 133Mhz FSB because back then it was a big deal to reach 133Mhz. The CPU cooling probably isn't an issue if the chipset can handle the FSB, I remember running a coppermine with a tiny stock cooler at 1.75v and 1.1Ghz and it barely hit 50C. Let me know what motherboard is in it and I'll probably be able to tell you more about it. It's really kind of a waste of time to mess with it much though because for under 200$ you can buy an off the shelf laptop that will outperform that PC. It's pretty impressive what you can get in budget computers now, they're not so slow that they're useless anymore.
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Feb 23, 2012 22:25
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This review says it has a 440bx chipset which only officially supported up to 100MHz and back then OEM motherboards never had overclocking options so I think you're going to be stuck.
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Feb 24, 2012 04:18
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They have a lower multiplier, but they're not actually running significantly slower and the higher FSB more than makes up for it. 10x100=1Ghz vs 7.5x133=1Ghz, the 133Mhz FSBed one will win every time. A 100Mhz P3 should run at its rated speed, but considering how awful OEM motherboards were back then I couldn't be sure.
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Feb 24, 2012 06:47
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I pulled a 1000 watt power supply from a Dell machine with a bad motherboard that was getting thrown out. It's still with me 4 years later. The actual reason I came to post was to talk about noise. If you're trying to quiet down your case by replacing fans don't ignore your older "quiet" fans. I replaced almost every fan in my computer before I thought to try unplugging an old Sunon that was originally nearly silent. Visually it wasn't doing anything weird but it made a terrible whine that I couldn't pinpoint. The worst part was I cut up the fan shrouds on my videocards so I could disable the stock fan and run really slow 120mm fans on them. At least they're 20 degrees cooler now.
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Mar 8, 2012 00:02
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grumperfish posted:Posted about this awhile back, but this crazy dude on overclockers has been modding Voodoo cards and he just posted another one he's working on with custom watercooling: This pisses me off way more than it should. The water block isn't that well designed, and those cards could already max out their clock generator after a volt mod with just air cooling. I wouldn't care at all, except for everyone getting so excited about it in that thread. Edit: Hahaha, he PAID someone to make that, it wasn't even a home project. craig588 fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Apr 12, 2012 |
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Apr 12, 2012 01:26
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I have a Noctua D14 in the mail that accidentally got sent to the wrong sorting facility and my old computer finally died so I have the option of using the stock 2500K heatsink with my new computer just to get it running for a week, or not having a desktop computer. I still have some Arctic Silver 5 leftover from the last time I built PCs, should I clean off the stuff Intel ships with and use that, or has their stock solution improved to where it'll be a marginal difference? I'm not planning on overclocking much with the stock heatsink, but if I can get the 3.7ghz turbo frequency to be the baseline for all cores and not just single threaded applications I'd be happy.
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May 24, 2012 22:55
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I decided to attach it as is, but It's a non issue now, the motherboard was DOA. I ordered a new one from Newegg this time instead of a weird Amazon 3rd party seller, hopefully I'll at least get a refund. I had a 3.6ghz q6800 before and I didn't want the move to the 2500 to feel like a step down. The CPU is probably still good actually, the chipset fan failed and caused the motherboard to get so hot it burned the PCB. Maybe I'll see if I have any other 775 boards laying about...
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May 25, 2012 04:45
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Last year I spent my money on a 256gb SSD, it isn't much faster than the Raptor RAID array it replaced, but it is completely silent. (And really quite a bit faster)
craig588 fucked around with this message at 23:40 on May 25, 2012 |
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May 25, 2012 06:01
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The OP series is really great, anytime I've thought "I wonder if I can do this?" I've looked through it and found there's a useful bit of information there. I generally keep my house fuckoff hot because temperatures don't really bother me personally so I was thinking about posting asking how to properly lower voltages, but it's already in there. Now during the day I can let it sit at 100+ in my house and when I'm not playing a game leave the air conditioning off and the CPU sits nicely at .95 volts and 1.6Ghz, when I want to play something I can turn on the A/C and it can jump up to 1.28 volts and 4.5 Ghz. Offset mode's pretty great.
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May 31, 2012 21:55
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Have you overclocked anything before? The new UEFI bios feels intimidating at first, but after a few minutes of hitting enter on settings and seeing what values are possible it's very similar to the comfortable old style you know, just with different nomenclature. I'd suggest just looking at everything that seems like it's what you're after, but not saving any changes. Then go in a second time and key in some slight increases where you'll be able to see the changes in CPU-Z and if everything works like you expect it to then see how far you can go. I went from never overclocking an 1155 system to hitting 4.5Ghz safely in a matter of hours with a combination of that and reading the OP series.
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Jun 8, 2012 04:09
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Agreed posted:it even has a mouse Once I stopped trying to use the mouse and treated it more like a classic bios it got much simpler. Changing settings with a mouse makes me stop thinking or something. Modern memory technology is really fantastic though, I'll be glad to never mess with the balance of dividers, FSB black holes, and timings that change on every motherboard even when you keep the same sticks.
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Jun 8, 2012 04:38
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Overclocking laptops is a really bad idea because of the small coolers, limited bios options and additional load placed on the laptops power system, dramatically reducing battery life and potentially even damaging it. I think the only time it could make sense is if you knew that exact cooling system and motherboard were also supplied with a higher end CPU so they're already sized to handle the additional load. You're probably going to get stopped hard by no bios options though. Check out what you have available in your bios and report back. From my own experiences, I bought a Core 2 series laptop with a cpu that had the lowest FSB and highest multipler and pin modded it to the highest FSB strap then set the bios to boot up in overheat mode so the multiplier was dropped as low as possible, but the FSB was doubled. Then I used the power management controls exposed to windows to change the minimum multiplier to as high as it could go stabilly. I lost automatic clock control by doing that though, battery life went from around 3 hours to around 2. That's how I've always seen laptop overclocking, really carefully picking out an entire system with a lot of information ahead of time in order to cheat with the design quirks. PC overclocking feels straight up official by comparison.
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Sep 1, 2012 04:15
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HT multiplier is just for the system bus speed, you want to drop the CPU multiplier to lower the CPU speed. The last time I had an AMD system was when the FX53 was the CPU to get and it was wise to pretty much always have the HT multiplier at 4x because 5x got unstable easily and didn't help performance much, but your motherboard is much newer so they might have ironed out those issues. Only change one thing at a time, there's no reason to make the system slower than it has to be. I've leave all of the voltages at stock and start dropping clock frequencies before I tried raising voltages to maintain the same speeds. Once you get a stable speed as a baseline then you can try messing around with increasing voltages to try to push it back up. What are your temperatures like? It's very possible there's just a lot of dust built up and all you need to do is blow everything out.
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Sep 18, 2012 02:09
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With an OEM motherboard there's probably no chance of overclocking the CPU. You can overclock the videocard through software though. AMD has an overclocking tool called Overdrive built into their driver suite, but I've seen a lot of people run into the limits of it. Most (all?) of the 3rd party tools have dropped support for older cards so if you run into the limits of the included tool you'll have to start searching through old versions of tools to find the newest version where your card is still supported.
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Sep 18, 2012 03:25
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Some people have small monitors and don't care to upgrade. I gave my dad one of my old 8800 gtxes to replace the 6600 he was running and it was amazing the frame rates it will put out running at only 1024x768 with other settings maxed out. (I did try to give him a 24 inch monitor, but he didn't want it)
craig588 fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Sep 18, 2012 |
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Sep 18, 2012 03:42
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Crank your power target all the way up, whatever the limit is has been determined to be safe for the board by the manufacturer as long as your temperatures stay in check. It's different for each PCB design and is set in the cards bios. The percentages are arbitrary, one dual 6 pin board could have a limit of 200 watts at 100% and another could have a limit of 175 watts at 120%. The manufacturer sets the stock power target, the maximum allowable power target and a third hidden value of power output that the board will never be allowed to exceed. It might make you unstable with the settings you have, but even if you end up needing to lower the GPU offset clock, overall you'll be faster because it's going to let the GPU get more voltage and a higher boost clock. I'm not sure if that's entirely clear so I'll make up some numbers to show you what I mean. 100% power target 980MHz stock speed + 100MHz boost + 400MHz offset gives you 1480MHz. 140% power target 980Mhz stock + 300Mhz boost + 300MHz offset gives you 1580Mhz. The higher power target lets it boost more with more voltage giving you a higher stable effective clock rate. It's not over volting the GPU or over taxing the power circuitry of the card unless the manufacturer made a mistake in their bios, which is possible, but unlikely.
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Sep 23, 2012 07:46
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I'd go to 42x100 before I'd go to 41x103. There were lots of stories of PCI-E cards mysteriously dying with increased BCLK even when everything was stable.
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Sep 28, 2012 01:08
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I finally got around to messing around with the power targets in my 670s bios. My peak boosted overclock is unchanged, but now under load the core clock stays within 50Mhz of the peak clock. Before it'd swing as far as 200Mhz below the peak, depending on whatever was happening in the game. (OCCT would even let it go from 1300mhz to 950mhz before, now it only drops to 1200mhz) Temperatures are up by about 7 degrees, but nothing to have me worried. I gave it a limit of 225 watts and nothing seems to mind. This is on the custom mini PCB Gigabyte dual fan 670, not the one based on the 680 PCB. Model number GV-N670WF2-2GD if you want to look it up. A tool is being worked on to edit your bios for you, but for now it's way too involved to really recommend to anyone. craig588 fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Oct 7, 2012 |
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Oct 7, 2012 16:17
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EVGA claims up to 1.3v is safe, but adding voltage doesn't seem to help a huge amount . I messed with the voltage weeks earlier and increasing from 1.175 to 1.212 (the limit of this PCB) only added 20mhz to my peak stable boosted clock. Power target mods are more for keeping boosted clocks up on cards with really low factory power targets, like mine. If you're not pegging out your power target it's not going to help you. I set it to 225 because it's a dual 6 pin card, if I was braver and went to 300 watts it could probably stay boosted at 1300mhz no matter what was happening in game. I wouldn't have cared for 20mhz, but I was really bothered by how it could lose 200mhz because of the factory limit. I wish I saved a before log, but just imagine it zigzagging all over the place. What's holding up the tool authors at the moment is every card keeps values at unique offsets and because there isn't much standardization in factory settings they can't just search for values. Also, there's checksumming that has to happen when specific portions of the bios get changed, including everything related to power, fan speed, voltage and stock clock speeds. I'm on my ipad so I think this is the mobile version of the site, but here's the information I used. http://www.hwlegend.com/bbforum/viewtopic.php?f=144&t=3482 if you have a reference PCB they have premodded bioses for you. Seriously don't use them unless you know what you're doing, you could lose performance or even ruin your card without any option for replacement. craig588 fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Oct 8, 2012 |
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Oct 8, 2012 03:39
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NaDy posted:Apologies if this has been asked before, I looked through the OP and a few pages but couldn't see it. I'm getting a 3570k with a P8Z77-V LX, what would be the highest but safest OC I could do with the stock heatsink you get with the cpu? Don't. Spend 20$ on an aftermarket heatsink and then you'll be set for 42x100 all day. Every chip is different and if you want to experiment yourself you might find yours can do 4.5GHz with incredibly low voltage using just the stock heatsink. (Incredibly unlikely, but it's not strictly impossible) Really you're just wasting time with the stock heatsink, I've seen people hit 80+ degrees at only 3.8GHz. Moving to even one of the 20$ options makes 4.2GHz pretty much guaranteed and 4.5ghz+ pretty reasonable. Here's a thread where a guy pirates Windows XP in 2012, but also records his temperatures in prime95 at 3.6GHz using the stock cooler. He hit 87 degrees. http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=710812 craig588 fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Oct 12, 2012 |
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Oct 12, 2012 20:24
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fuckpot posted:I'm looking for a 100% GPU stress tester. I tried the ones in the OP but they don't seem to make my GPU sweat very much. GPU usage hovered around the 50% mark on both of them. Crank up the power target as high as your card will let it go. It'll help a bit and I have been running my card at the equivalent of 160% power target through bios modifications with no side effects other than higher temperatures. I need to keep my fan at 80% in order to keep it below 70C under all loads. It's been running fine since October 6th. craig588 fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Nov 19, 2012 |
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Nov 19, 2012 04:49
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Non K CPUs are locked to 4 multiplier steps above their maximum. Overclocking a laptop is also an incredibly bad idea unless you don't care about losing it. The cooling systems are already incredibly small and adding more heat is just going to make the problem worse. Once you're not worried about killing it you can potentially get a maximum of .4GHz more out of it and all of the Sandy Bridge stuff from the OP applies, but until then leave it stock. Edit: Oh yeah, I completely forgot about bclk changes, but that seems like such a bad idea in a laptop.
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Nov 24, 2012 02:46
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This isn't like the Kentsfield days where sometimes it'd get stuck in a loop bouncing back and forth or forget to speed up when there was a load. Intel got their dynamic clock speeds very reliable starting with Sandybridge.
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Dec 16, 2012 11:05
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I had some free time so I messed around with overclocking memory while watching steam sales. After 2 days of messing about I have almost a 1% improvement in synthetic benchmarks! I wasn't really anticipating any improvements, just wanted to see how insignificant it was for myself.
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Dec 23, 2012 00:16
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Following that guide is crazy and will kill CPUs. Drop load line calibration down to high at most and preferably medium. I'm kind of busy so I don't have time to go through it item by item, but that's WAAAY too high, nothing else stands out as immediately CPU killing, but quite a few settings are bad. They're like 1 time benchmarking settings for a CPU you don't plan on keeping for more than a month. You can ignore all of the sensors except for the CPU Vcore and the internal CPU temperatures. The 3rd party tools (And even 1st party tools) have kind of ignored reading any other sensors correctly because they don't provide anything really useful. I just really wanted to warn you before you ended up with a dead CPU. Hopefully someone else will be able to provide more elaborate information, or I'll get free in a couple hours and post something.
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Jan 11, 2013 00:46
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350 seems to be the magic number for getting extra stability I don't think anyone has ever had issues from it. You want to stop using manual CPU voltage if you followed that guide, set it to offset mode and +/- .005 so you get a good baseline for what voltage it's going to give you. Manual+Auto is probably why it's giving you really wacky voltages. The guide suggests setting LLC to very high which is what I first thought was giving you super wild voltage swings. I have it just set to medium and it's enough to cause occasional swings to 1.37v when the normal load voltage is around 1.32. (That's with a SNB, I wouldn't feel comfortable getting a IVB CPU that high) You should be able to keep internal PLL overvoltage disabled and keep CPU PLL voltage on auto. DRAM command mode should be able to do 1, but the performance difference is pretty minor so you can ignore it if you want.
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Jan 11, 2013 03:03
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It'd be better to run it at 1333 and 1.5v. There's virtually no performance difference and anything over 1.5v is pushing it.
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Jan 11, 2013 20:01
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Offset voltage mode is really great and it's worth it to figure it out. By default your CPU will request a relatively wide range of voltages depending on the load and how it's dynamically clocking itself. Offset voltage changes what voltage is delivered whenever the CPU requests any specific value. It's best to start out by setting it to + or - .005 just so you know what your CPU will receive as a baseline without any of the motherboards auto settings trying to cheat it one way or the other. You will push up the idle voltage by the same amount as the loaded voltage by increasing offset voltage, but hopefully it will be a small enough change to not really matter. Messing with LLC can push up the loaded voltage without increasing the idle voltage, but it also adds the chance for high spikes so you need to monitor the voltage over a long period with a variety of loads to make sure it never peaks out above what you're comfortable with. Just for an example, in my case, I only have LLC on medium and it usually keeps the load voltage around 1.32, but in some cases it can get up to 1.37V. I could have gotten a similar load voltage by adjusting the offset voltage, I don't remember the specific values anymore, but I would have had to have an idle voltage somewhere above 1V. With LLC on medium I only have the offset at +.020V which is enough to just barely keep it under 1V.
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Jan 16, 2013 13:47
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High is well...pretty high. I was trying to say you probably want to avoid using LLC unless you want to start messing around with crazy stuff, even with just medium I get a pretty wide range of voltages. The voltage reported in the bios is just what the CPU VID is set to there. It's pretty meaningless because it's a sort of inbetween state of not being loaded but also not having many power management features functioning. (Someone correct me if that's not true, but at least for me it's always displayed some sort of inbetween value that had little relationship to my idle or loaded voltages) Start messing with the offset and no LLC until you're stable or you run out of temperature or get to a voltage you're uncomfortable with. If you end up in a place with your idle voltage higher than you want then it might be worth it to look into enabling LLC and dropping the offset voltage a bit. craig588 fucked around with this message at 11:52 on Jan 17, 2013 |
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Jan 17, 2013 11:44
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Give the Vcore another .005, you're not near any sort of warning zone for IVB voltage yet. Instability can make you second guess everything if you ever encounter a problem with anything in the future. (Was it my overclocking? Did I leave too many tabs open? Do I need to update my drivers? Is is a legitimate bug? etc)
craig588 fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Jan 19, 2013 |
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Jan 19, 2013 06:20
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They're all polling the volt meter at slightly different times and CPU voltages have a tendency to bounce around very quickly by small amounts.
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Jan 20, 2013 07:52
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I had Panaflos back in 2005 or so and they're still recommended. I think fans are so refined at this point it's just a matter of manufacturing quality, not so much getting outdated.
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Feb 5, 2013 16:50
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SocketSeven posted:is it unusual to have a variance of 4 to 7 degrees between cores on an i7 while under load? All the cores even out at idle. Completely normal.
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Feb 11, 2013 21:20
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By default the processor does that, but once you start overclocking the motherboard reconfigures it to ignore current and temperature limits. Otherwise you'd be in a situation where it only ran at 4.4GHz sometimes and it'd generally stick close to the factory multiplier. If you wanted to get really into it you can mess with the settings in the bios (At least on this Asus motherboard) but there's like 6 of them and I wouldn't know where to start to get it working well.
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Feb 12, 2013 18:54
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amp281 posted:I clamped the processor in a vice upsidedown by its lid and hit the pcb with a hammer and a block of wood. Removes the lid in under a minute and much less risky then razor blade. It makes me glad to see someone else finally using that method because it's my preferred way to go and no one believes how fast and reliable it is. The razor blade way just sounds like a nightmare and so many people do it like that.
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Mar 29, 2013 14:07
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That's a really high speed for that architecture, in many cases even with increased voltage and good cooling 3.8GHz isn't possible from that architecture. You could try what I've done with pin modding laptops and set the bios for maximum power saving mode, or any equivilant that sets the multiplier to the lowest possible on bootup and have a program autorun with windows that adjusts it back up to the stock CPU speeds but with the higher FSB.
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Apr 29, 2013 21:28
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I remember somewhere in the prescott era was the first time I heard of someone ripping a die off because it was soldered to the IHS.
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May 1, 2013 17:47
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HalloKitty posted:Prescott was a total waste of time, and I can barely believe Intel squeezed it out. Anyone who "upgraded" from Northwood to Prescott was pissing money up the wall, and heating their room. The SL6Z3 Northwood was another really respectable overclocker 3.6GHz and 300Mhz FSB. If the 8x5 chipsets didn't scale so well it might have made the higher multipliers more appealing. It really sucked for people who early adopted the 1,000$ 3GHz chip that had a 23X mutiplier for a factory 133MHz FSB. craig588 fucked around with this message at 18:10 on May 1, 2013 |
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May 1, 2013 18:08
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Those voltages and temperatures are both really high. You probably want to drop down a multiplier or two unless you're planning on buying a new CPU soon.
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May 24, 2013 20:53
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Anyone remember how I messed with my 670s bios and got it to run at 1300Mhz no matter the load? I also said no one should do it because of how scary it was to actually create a functional bios (You had to half corrupt a bios and splice two edited bios halves together, it was a mess). I just noticed there's now a tool to mess with your power target, I haven't personally used it, but I did load up my manually modded bios with it and it confirmed the changes I made and validated the checksum so it's probably pretty safe. http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?30356-Nvidia-Kepler-BIOS-Tweaker-v1.25-f%FCr-GTX-6xx-Reihe-680-670-660-650-UPDATE With a modded power target you get to keep the power management features unlike that K Boost overclocking feature that makes the card ignore all of the sensors. As long as you keep track of your temperatures and have a big enough power supply it should be pretty safe to set the power target to whatever you want, I've been running the equivalent of 200% for something like 8 months now without any issues. Edit: Found the screen shot of the log from back then I guess it's not always sticking to 1300mhz, but it's far tighter than it was before that. This card used to have greater than 200Mhz swings during gameplay. craig588 fucked around with this message at 04:26 on May 25, 2013 |
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May 25, 2013 04:19
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