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I've been catching up with this thread over the last few days, and holy gently caress, you guys are awesome. I'm not one for cosplay, but I do love me some Halloween. Making an awesome costume and scaring the poo poo out of people never fails to deliver a smile straight to my face. Last year, I was inspired by this video, to make something I had never tried before. Sadly, I only had 1 month, and roughly $75 to use on this(the guys in that video had a lot longer, and spent a few hundred dollars on theirs). The end result was really lack-luster, in my eyes. This year, I aim to change that. I've spent the last few months researching parts and things that I'm going to change and upgrade about the costume. The result should be completely different than last year. First, I'm going to swap out the wooden rear stilts for digitgrade stilts. Not only will this will give a more alien looking back leg, it'll allow me to stand up, should rough terrain or stairs make 4 legged walking difficult. The downside to digitigrade stilts is that adding the ability to stand brings in two other problems. The first is what to do with the front leg stilts. After spending a long time weighing the pros and cons of all the options, I decided that having the front stilts retract out of the way when I stand would be the best solution, as it will allow me to use my hands while standing. Of course, I can't have my dinky human hands showing when I stand up. This means I have to swap in some larger hands. I figured that the most interesting way to incorporate them into the costume would be to essentially turn the retracting part of the stilts into the monster's pinky fingers. So, make a fist, stick your pinky finger out, that's how the front arms would look when walking on all 4s. Stand up, close pinky finger, open the other fingers and thumb, that's what it looks like standing. I've got the design in my head, and I need to draw it out and start figuring out how parts will come together. The biggest problem is going to be making a latch that can be triggered by my pinky finger, which will let the monsters pinky finger swing between being extended outward and retracted back. The next problem is going to be the mask. As you can see from the video, it sits on top of the wearers head, while they look down as they walk. If I stand up, the mask will point straight upward, which won't work. I plan to make a helmet of sorts that will have the mask attached to some stiff wire, posts, and counterweights. The mask will essentially float in front of my head while I'm walking, held level by the counterweights. When I stand up, the mask will pivot on the posts and stay facing level forward. The upside to this is that the mask will be out of the way of my face, so my view will not be obstructed. Finally, the look of the monster will drastically change. I was really not very happy with the paint job I did. This time around, I plan on redoing the whole thing differently. I'm thinking I'll color the base of it a dark gray, and cover it in tattered and frayed strips of cloth that'll be died a lighter gray with a bare hint of brown. The whole thing will be designed to make the mask pop out and be the focus of the costume, while the body shape blends together at a distance to make the monster a bit more confusing to see. Right off the bat, I do have a couple questions. I need a light, yet strong material to make the pinky finger of the monster out of. It needs to be light to make it easy to carry around, yet strong enough to take the weight of a person and not bend, buckle, or snap. Also, I do plan on having sounds to go with this, but I need some advice on speaker systems. I need something that's portable and battery operated, but that can be loud enough to be heard a good distance away outdoors. Does anyone have any suggestions on that front?
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Jun 30, 2013 22:27
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a cock shaped fruit posted:Right, started to paper mache my Pepakura, and suddenly it was like I opened my eyes and saw the Matrix. I could suddenly see exactly how I could make it out of foam, and save myself hours of paper mache'ing. So 20 minutes later I returned from the 24 hour store with yoga mats and a roll of duct tape, and a few hours later: Halfway up the page, but I figure I'd throw this idea out there, in case anyone needs it. In the camping section of your local Walmart, you should be able to find blue foam bedrolls for ~$7.50. It's 20 x 72 x 0.5, easy to cut up with scissors, and pretty decently stable, if you need it to stand on its own. I'm going to use this stuff this year, instead of the extra expensive mattress topper I used last year for my build.
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Jul 8, 2013 21:36
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Fatkraken posted:I'd recommend against these, they're cheap but all the ones I've seen are soft, floppy and easily marked. Much better off with a decent EVA foam or something like Plastazote. This is true, but if you, like me, are looking for something as a base material to attach fabric or other flexible things to, then they work pretty well. They're certainly better than the mattress pads I used for my build last year. Those were far softer and much more flexible, but more than twice the price.
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Jul 9, 2013 06:37
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I've got a couple questions for you guys. First, I'm looking to make a ton of strips of fabric that look like dirty, frayed, tattered bandages. I'm currently thinking of using muslin, which I'll dye and dirty up, then cut into strips and fray. Does anyone have any good tips for quickly/easily fraying lots and lots of fabric? Is muslin a good choice? It's certainly the cheapest I could find. What about cheesecloth? I've heard different things about both fabrics, and I'd like to get a bit more solid info on working with them. My other question is how do I go about making some faux leather straps? I don't need them to be ultra-realistic, obviously, but just something that looks enough like leather at a glance. My first thought was to find a pleather couch that someone was throwing away and cannibalize it for the material, but maybe someone out there has another good idea for it?
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Jul 11, 2013 20:19
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Looks like a 12 to me. Though, it's really anyone's guess.Ruin Completely posted:Go to a thrift store and get the cheapest xxl leather jacket they've got. They usually have several that are really big and ugly looking that they sell for ~$10. For the bandages, most cheap fabric will fray like a motherfucker as soon as you cut them without hemming them. If you want them especially beat up just put them on the ground and step on them/grind them against concrete with some rocks. Killer_Frost posted:Easiest way to fray up some cheap fabric fast... Wash it. It'll usually fray out a bit on the edges and saves you a butt load of time. Thanks for the ideas.  I have a large warehouse-type distribution center for the salvation army less than 10 minutes away, and I've got tons of rocks and concrete, so I'll try those suggestions first. I also found a big 6 yard thing of cheesecloth for $5 at walmart, which will help add a bit of fine texture to the costume. All the materials are coming together. Just need to save the money to buy them.
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Jul 13, 2013 05:26
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Those look way cool. I almost want to take the fabric and make it look like musculature to give it a seriously cyberpunk biomechanical look. Speaking of hands and biomechanical, I've got another question. It's one of the last design problems I'm trying to work out on the thing I'm building. I'm looking to make a couple of large mechanical hands to go over my own. The problem is that I'd like to have an articulated thumb, but I'm not finding a lot of info on how to do that. The closes thing I've found is this guys video, and his Etsy page for them, but he charges $200 a pair, which is ludicrus, and I only need to know how he gets the thumb to articulate. Anyone got any ideas on how to get that done? EDIT: ...Do you think he essentially took an L bracket and bolted it on with a washer so it could spin? That's the best I can come up with. neogeo0823 fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 05:08
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fallin1 posted:Going to Scarefest here in lexington tomorrow. I'll be sure to snap pics of my corvo costume as well as any other costumes for the other thread. What other thread? Is there a Halloween thread up? Where at?
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Sep 14, 2013 16:03
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That looks good, but the only detail that's sticking out at me is the transition from the spool to the channel where the handle would sit. The channel doesn't have an edge to it, it's smoothed out. the OP of this thread has a picture that shows what I mean. The rest of the detail looks good.
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Jan 26, 2014 15:00
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If you're talking about a makerspace/hackerspace, google "makerspace <your city>" and see if they have a website. Plenty of makerspaces let people visit for free, or have open house days where people can come and use stuff for free. A lot of them also will give discounted or free memberships to people who can add value to the place in other ways, like teaching classes or helping keep out with other people's projects there or something.
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Sep 21, 2014 20:59
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DoctorWhat posted:How'd you get it so LOUD? It might actually almost be ~audible~ through the crowd. I'm also interested in this. I have a sound track for a thing I want to do, but you can't hear it less than a foot away from my lovely cellphone. I don't have any other pocket sized playback devices, and building a circuit that I could plug into a cellphone or MP3 player to blast it would be preferable.
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Sep 24, 2014 14:05
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I was gonna say we should probably keep the TFR chat out of the cosplay thread, because all this gun chat hasn't been as fun as the actual costume making stuff, but now I just wanna see if this goon got his dumb rear end arrested. I don't know anything about the legalities of firearms, but from what I gather here, as long at certain parts of the printed thing can't accept certain other parts of a "real" working gun, then it's fine, right? So if that one bit that Atticus posted was, say, filled in completely with ABS, then it wouldn't legally be considered a weapon?
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Feb 24, 2015 20:38
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McPantserton posted:Unless I'm totally crazy none of the PAX conventions are this weekend, PAX South (which he mentioned in his post specifically) was in January and PAX East starts next week on March 6. So if he's getting arrested for whatever mystery firearm thing you guys are talking about it's probably not going to be today. You best post pictures. Your stuff's been really great inspiration for a lot of goons, and it's always fun to see this stuff come together.
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Feb 24, 2015 21:09
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How do you go about making convincing antlers? Or branches, for that matter? I've got a thing I wanna do for Halloween if able, and my choices are basically either make something, go outside and get some branches, or buy some antlers. I figure actual branches would snap too easily once they're dry, and actual antlers would cost a small fortune to acquire where I live.
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Mar 1, 2015 03:47
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Squarely Circle posted:I'm working on something in a similar fantasy-medieval vein for the AZ ren faire going on right now, my stuff's mostly scavenged/altered clothes from Goodwill though. I just finished this and it's cobbled together from like five different brown belts, plus some hardware and faux fur I had lying around. Pretty pleased with how it turned out even if it's a little rough on the inside. Hooray for glue. This looks pretty great, and at first I thought it was a close up shot of a dog collar or similar, and I was trying to imagine how bad-rear end your  WAR HOUND would look.So, for once I've come into some money, and I'm looking to actually make something I want to make for a change. To start, I want to make a pair of these stilts. I'm trying to source the materials for it, but frankly I have no clue where to even begin looking. Can anyone recommend suppliers that are reasonably priced and relatively close to Western New York?
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Mar 6, 2015 15:15
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Tamir Lenk posted:That link includes some online sources for the materials. Most of the listed materials (metal stock, fasteners, etc.) should be available at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. The only things you may not find there would be the sintra and aircraft cable. If so, drop that poo poo into an Amazon search. I find almost everything there. Wouldn't you know it, I had discounted the website links because the guy's Canadian, and I figured most Canadian suppliers wouldn't ship to the US, but there's a Metal Supermarkets location literally 5 minutes from me and I never knew that it existed. So tomorrow I'll be heading there and pricing things out and looking at other stuff. Here's hoping.
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Mar 7, 2015 04:20
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So, I have a bit of a conundrum. I need to get some velcro straps for the stilts I'm making. The instructions tell me that making my own will be cheaper and result in stronger straps, but I don't have access to a sewing machine and can't sew to save my life. Does anyone have any good tips or products to recommend for making velcro straps? Alternatively, I've found several different velcro straps on Amazon and a few other sites, but I don't know how strong they are. Considering they'll be holding my legs and feet in the stilts, they'll have to hold quite a bit of weight. Can anyone recommend some specific straps that are heavy-duty enough for that sort of job?
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Mar 10, 2015 00:54
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Hmm. The only thing that might not work about those is that the 2nd half of the velcro needs to be stuck to something, rather than the strap sticking to itself. I'm beginning to wonder if I could possibly skip the velcro altogether and find a different alternative? I get that the velcro is ideal because you can fine tune how tight it holds you in, but there's gotta be some other buckle or clip or something I could use to do the same job. EDIT: What about either the ladder lock buckle, or the cam buckle? Anyone have experience with either of those? neogeo0823 fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Mar 10, 2015 |
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Mar 10, 2015 03:09
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So, I can't seem to find any turnbuckles with a load bearing weight greater than 130lbs. I specifically need two that are 5/16 x 9 inches eye-and-eye and rated for at least 600lbs each. The problem is that my googling around is only either yielding inexpensive ones that will definitely fail, or ones that will support the load they need, but are $40/each. Anyone have any ideas on where to go? Would going with a different, slightly larger turnbuckle yield generally stronger components, you think? Or is this a question for a different thread, maybe? neogeo0823 fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Mar 11, 2015 |
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Mar 11, 2015 14:23
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taiyoko posted:Are you like 500 pounds or something? The directions on the page just say "verify that their weight limit is greater than your weight." I don't know why you'd need them to be able to hold 600 pounds if you're nowhere near that heavy. No, the second part of the instructional .pdf file says that the turnbuckles should be rated for at least double your weight, and that standard steel ones should be rated for around 800lbs. I figured 600lbs by adding a decent chunk to my weight and doubling it. So far I have everything but the sintra, and a couple of hard to find parts, turnbuckles included, ordered or bought. I've actually spent less than I budgeted for, which is good. I figure the sintra will probably eat most of the rest of the budget up though, unless the warehouse I'm going to tomorrow has it available.
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Mar 12, 2015 00:15
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Well, there goes my budget. I found turnbuckles in the size I needed, in a tougher material than zinc plated aluminum or whatever the hell the weak ones were, but I didn't realize they'd cost $25 a pop. At least I know they're going to hold my weight, since they're rated for something crazy like 1600lb or some poo poo. Yes, these were the cheapest ones I could find that weren't the lovely low-weight ones from Lowes. I'm actually almost done with my list of stuff. All I have left are nylon washers, tri-ring, and the sintra. I'm going to a shop tomorrow morning to hopefully get the washers and maybe the tri-ring, but I've still gotta find a decently priced supplier for the sintra. I have had some luck finding it online, by searching under "closed cell PVC foam board" instead, and one thing I'm noticing is that the price goes way way up as you increase the size of the boards. I'm wondering if there's any decent way to buy two half-size boards and attach them together. Does anyone have experience in that sort of thing? I figure I can probably bolt them together with brackets. I doubt there's any sort of glue that would work for this.
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Mar 12, 2015 21:34
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Unibrow posted:Foamed PVC is just that: PVC that is foamed, with nothing added but air. Grab a tiny can of PVC cement from the plumbing department of your local hardware store. But will it be able to withstand the same torsion/tension/compression forces that the PVC would be able to withstand? If so, then great. If so, with bracing from brackets, then ok. If not, then I still have a problem.
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Mar 13, 2015 18:31
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MajorGravy posted:Just ended a 72 hour workday trying to get a Thor costume ready. Passed out for 12 hours after duct taping a note saying "DO NOT WAKE, IN COOLDOWN" on my forehead, then crashing on the couch at work. Here's the vest in all it's blood, sweat, and superglue burns glory.  I don't think you'll have to worry about how the rest of the costume will turn out. Just uh, load up on vitamin C, Emergen-C if you can find it, and maybe one of those daily multi-vitamins and you should be pretty cold-proof. Unibrow posted:Ideally, yes. PVC cement isn't like superglue or wood glue or contact cement; it's actually a solvent that turns the surface of the plastic into PVC goo, which chemically "welds" it with the plastic of the same type you smush it into. When the solvent evaporates, all that is left is the plastic you started with. It's kind of like heating the plastic edges with a torch until it's a goo, and then mushing them together, only we're doing it with chemicals instead of heat. When all is said and done, it's effectively one piece of plastic at the molecular level. Yesterday, I was at the local makerspace for Pi Day celebrations, and I managed to run into a guy who works for a local sign shop, who can give me a quote tomorrow for some sintra. Given the dimensions of the two biggest pieces, your info could be incredibly handy to know if it turns out to be much cheaper to order 1'x1' sheets or something like that. Please do let me know how well your test pieces held up before breaking. Just to make sure, the chemically bonded parts of the two pieces should be fine to heat up and mold into a curve, right?
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Mar 15, 2015 15:37
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Ultron? The hell kinda job you got, anyway?
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Mar 16, 2015 17:39
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Well hey, that's a lot of good research there, thanks. Earlier today, I found a sintra seller on ebay that let me pick the exact size and number of sheets I wanted, with free shipping no less, and that ended up costing me just over $50, which is about where I was budgeting that at. The cheapest local seller here is a custom sign shop that quoted me $75 for the same stuff. Now I just have to wait and hope it doesn't take the projected week it might take to ship up here.
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Mar 17, 2015 03:37
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MajorGravy posted:We make costumes for movie premieres and roadshows! And visit charities, do parties, and other stuff in the meantime. But mostly I do stuff like this for fun. I both hate and envy you to a recognizably unhealthy degree.   In other news, I've got just one last thing to find for my stilts and I'll have all the materials I need. It's this plastic buckle...ring... thing...? The parts list labels it as Tri-Ring, but that's obviously not what it is. It's also not D-Ring. I don't necessarily need whatever I get to look exactly like that, but I do know I need it to be 1.5 inches wide, and have a closed loop to put a bolt through it. If anyone can give me a name to google around for to find this thing, or any kind of direction at all, I'd be very appreciative.
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Mar 17, 2015 15:35
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Ok, so, I'm about ready to give up on finding something to use to hold these straps on my stilts. The closest thing I could find online to what was in the instructions was this bolt plate. I emailed them, asking for a quote, and it took them a week to get back to me and tell me that they were out of stock. Then they informed me that they have a $150 minimum order, so I basically went "Ha ha ha... No!" and now I have no idea where else to look. I've searched through McMaster-Carr, North State Supply, Fastenal, Napa Auto Parts, Value Home Centers, Lowes, Home Depot, Jo Anne Fabrics, Harbor Freight Tools, and Dival Safety, and I've asked literally every single person I had mentioned the project to, and I still cant find these loving things. You'd think that a simple slotted plate like that would be a common and easy thing to find, but nope!
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Apr 2, 2015 17:04
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EDIT: ^^^ See, this is why I get so frustrated. I look for 2 weeks and find nothing, and then in 5 minutes someone else casually googles around and finds something that'll work perfectly. It's probably because I was looking for 1.5 inch plates, seeing as that's the strap width. The 2 inch width will work fine, right? ^^^Ashcans posted:I tried to look back at your post history here to work out what you need this for, but it's not exactly clear to me. Do you have some sort of schematics or a diagram or something showing what you're trying to accomplish? Oh, sorry, yeah, I'm following this instructable, and the plates would be sewn onto the ends of the velcro straps that are used to keep my legs in the stilts. You can see the ones that guys used in the pictures in step 5, but I've been completely unable to find anything comparable at all. neogeo0823 fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Apr 2, 2015 |
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Apr 2, 2015 17:16
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I don't need anything with a huge weight rating. The plates are used to hold the Velcro straps that hold my legs in the stilts. There's 6 straps per leg, and really anything around 300lbs would be more than enough. And yeah, I guess 1.5 inches must be a specialty thing or something. Out of what's been posted, I'll likely go with the first link that McPanterston posted, as that's the cheapest one with the right sized slot, and it also has a hole that's the right size for the bushing spacers I'm using as well. I guess I really should've asked in here first before running all over town for the last two weeks. 
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Apr 2, 2015 19:15
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So, a while back in this thread(or maybe the last Halloween thread? I dunno) someone posted a cosplay they had where they made a Sony Walkman that they plugged their phone into to play music. I remember this build specifically because they said it could play really fricken loud. Like, outside-in-the-wind loud. Does anyone have a link to it, or any other low-cost ways of taking an MP3 and playing it at a high volume with decent quality for outdoor environments?
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Apr 12, 2015 14:27
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Has anyone ever seen a locking joint like what's described here? I've been trolling Google looking for hinge joints like that, and I'm drawing a blank on things that have a joint hinge that can lock in place like that that also has a release lever on one side. Does anyone have any ideas for where I should start looking?
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Apr 14, 2015 20:06
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Is this the kind of thing that lets you adjust the angle of some chair backs or am I misunderstanding what it's for? Probably? It's a locking hinge joint that can lock in place at predetermined spots between 0 and 180 degrees. I don't care about any other angles except for 0 and 180. This particular hinge also has a release lever built into one end that unlocks the hinge joint when it's pulled away from the arm. That's the big feature that I want in this hinge. Unfortunately, I can't think of anything I've seen in the last few years that has a hinge like that.
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Apr 14, 2015 20:27
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Magnus Praeda posted:I think Danger - Octopus! is right. Cheap aluminum patio furniture uses a joint like that. It typically uses a ratchet to hold the angle. I don't think I've ever seen it as a stand-alone hinge. As luck would have it, I happen to have an old-style folding lawn chair. Looking at the hinges, I might potentially be able to do something with it. The question is if I replace the latching mechanism(which is actually just a claw-shaped bit of metal) with a lever that can be held in place, will it be strong enough to hold a person's weight? I'll be experimenting tomorrow and later this week.
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Apr 15, 2015 03:48
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The Repo Man posted:Just check his posts. There may also be a thread here in DIY about Arduinos, which would help a lot. Ah, thanks. Sadly, it seems like he didn't post about it in the Arduino thread, unless I'm looking at the wrong thread. Thankfully, the local makerspace is HUGE on Arduino, so I'll likely be able to get a bunch of help from them.
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Apr 15, 2015 04:40
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eonblue174 posted:For this and a few other mechanical questions: I used to work with seat back latches and I'm going to school as an engineer, would it help anyone to have a livechat session on locking joints? I keep seeing things I want to answer but I can't think of a way to summarize down to one post. Also, I haven't found any online collections of joints, would it be helpful to have a tumblr or whatever of durable latch mechanisms? Helpful or not, it'd definitely be neat. I'm planning on modifying a couple of locking hinges from an old folding lawn chair, and while most of the existing parts seem sound enough, I know I'll need to add to or modify the claw that locks into the teeth on the hinge to turn it from a short claw into a lever, then add a spring that forces it into the teeth unless the lever is activated. It'd be really comforting to see if those theoretical modifications should hold up or even if they're possible at all before I go tearing the thing apart.
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Apr 20, 2015 21:42
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MajorGravy posted:Also finished off a MK43 at the same time to coincide with the premiere! And finally, Thor is finally ready to be shown! What the gently caress.  I hate you and every fun thing you stand for. And for content,this past week, I was supposed to finish my stilts, but the sintra shin support ended up snapping on one of the legs for some unknown reason. I had to order more, but it won't be here till late next week. I'm kinda pissed about that.
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Apr 25, 2015 21:53
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So, while I wait for the sintra to arrive so I can finish my stilts, I'm going to be moving on to the next stage of my design. I need to make some mechanical hands. Something like these hands. The only thing I'm trying to figure out is the length of each finger "bone", and/or what ratio to use so that they don't look really funky and still work and bend properly. I've tried sending the guy who made that video an email asking him, but he hasn't responded in over a week. Anyone have any advice regarding that?
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Apr 26, 2015 18:42
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So, yesterday, I tried walking on my stilts for the first time. It was going pretty well, but I got literally my last step for that attempt and put too much weight on my heel and fell backwards. I managed to twist sideways before hitting the ground, so I didn't fall flat on my back, but on my side. I'm perfectly fine, but the stilts are not. All of the sintra shattered, and the knee joints of the left stilt are bent out of shape. While I think I can bend them back decently well, that's $65 worth of sintra down the drain, and I have no desire to buy that much more. I'm currently looking for a cheap replacement for the sintra. I'm pretty sure that it was chosen for its job in this project because it would hold the metal supports in place and because it would clamp onto my leg after being molded. I've got a bunch of nylon strapping left over that I could theoretically use in its place, but I'm not sure how the supports will respond to that. I guess I'll have to wait and see how it goes. I'm just really pissed that I essentially wasted $65 like that.
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Apr 30, 2015 13:40
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The Repo Man posted:Could you use your existing piece to make a resin copy? Bondo, resin, and fiberglass shouldn't be too expensive, and is really strong. How expensive are we talking? I think I picked up all the pieces, so I should be able to superglue them together to make a mold.
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May 1, 2015 02:50
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Unibrow posted:Depending on how many pieces you were able to recover, and if you're able to get all the pieces back together with superglue, then you might be able to just wrap the busted sintra in a layer or two of fiberglass cloth to reinforce it. I'll take pictures this afternoon when I get home from work. 3 of the 4 pieces cracked in half in at least one spot. The 4th one has tears near one of the bolt points. How flexible will the resin be? I don't need it to be very flexible, but it's gotta bend at least a little bit so I can tighten it onto my leg with the straps.
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May 1, 2015 14:09
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Tamir Lenk posted:Can you show us what shape you need the sintra to make? I can take pictures later, but you can see the original images from the instructable here, in steps 3 and 6. It's the parts that go around the legs, not the feet. Basically, its a very vaguely H and U shaped pieces that are then heat-molded around my shins and thighs respectively.
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May 1, 2015 14:59
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