|
Nah, that looks mostly like surface rust. You're fine as long as there no major pitting on machined surfaces, I bet. Try electrolytic rust removal (all you nee is a car battery charger, a bucket, some sodium carbonate (NOT bicarbonate) and some sacrificial steel. Google it - it's amazing!) or one of the rust dissolver solutions. either can be done at home and are fairly cheap.
|
#
¿
May 8, 2013 00:32
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 30, 2024 09:13 |
|
|
Delivery McGee posted:Anybody ever seen a CNG-powered Crown Vic, or do they only exist to waste another five seconds of my life at the parts store when the guy asks what engine I have? On the other hand, you don't have to know the stock tire size, just tell the guy at the tire shop "I need cop car tires, [model year]" and he knows the numbers to look up. I've seen a number of CNG-badged public service Crown Vics here in the DFW area. DART, county inspectors, that sort of thing.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2013 05:48
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:Uhaul gave me poo poo about towing the EXP with the Lightning. What? I... That... What? I'm not even sure how I would respond to that. There's words there, bit they don't make any sense.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2013 23:23
|
|
|
My wife's grandmom can no longer drive, so we are going to sell or donate her '94 Grand Marquis. As the family car guy, I've been tasked with making sure it's OK. It's been sitting for almost a year, and had a few minor issues before then. Once we replaced the long dead battery, it started right up. Drove and stopped fine, so no major work, at least. I'm driving int to work a few day to make sure nothings bonkers, and get some fresh gas in it, etc. Will change the oil. Both driver's power windows are reluctant to go down, and won;t go up - I think I know what that issue is, and have ordered the little clutch rollers for the gear assembly. Hopefully it's not the gear itself. I'll know when I get in there. Power mirror on the driver's side doesn't work at all, and the passenger side only goes left and right, no up an down. Is the mirror switch a common problem? I intend to look at it and the wiring when I pull the door panel for the PW, but any info beforehand would be appreciated. The only other issue is that the ABS light comes on when driving. I'm assuming that one or more of the sensors is pooched. How do I tell? It stops fine, but you know how people are about warning lights. Headliner is trying to come loose in the back. I'll try to get some glue in there before it gets worse. Beyond that, the car is nice. Power everything, leather, aluminum wheels. Shifts fine, engine is strong (only 59K miles!)The suspension is floaty, but it's a Grand Marquis. Dunno if it's got the air ride in the rear, but if it does, it's working fine. Stored outside but under a carport, and serviced regularly by one mechanic she trusted. A true grandma car. I can definitely see the appeal of these things. With a bit stiffer suspension, I'd drive it everywhere.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2014 20:50
|
|
|
This seems to have followed me home over the weekend: No, not because I got in trouble. It's mine! Here's what it looked like later in the day after a couple hours quality time with 3M Adhesive remover:  Bought it from my cousin, who bought it from the security company he worked for, who bought it from a DFW-area PD. Looks to have never been a patrol car - there's only one hole in the roof, it never had a cage, the rear vinyl seat is in good shape, and the wiring isn't butchered. It's scungy inside because no one ever cared to clean it, but it's intact.  2005. 143K miles. $1500 Rubber floor mats, cop buckets. Factory AM/FM sounds surprisingly good. No major dents, not even much parking lot rash. Scratches in the paint, particularly form where my ham-fisted cousin removed the stickers with a razor blade, and some flaking paint here and there. Fortunately touch-up paint is available at the local O'Reilly's. May need an alignment. The spare in the trunk:   and the fronts are a little more worn on the edges. New-ish tires on the back, so I'll rotate those up there to give me some time to get it sorted. No major leaks that I could find. Rearend is weeping a bit. I know he replaced an axle, so I'll take a look at that. Appears to have a LSD, given the striped I laid down in front of the house (with the traction control on!), but I need to check the option codes to be sure. AC is awesome, nice window tint. runs great, but the alternator seems to have a bad bearing . Charges fine, but noisy in a bad way. Cousin said it was throwing code P0401. He pulled the battery, so nothing was set when I had it checked at Autozone, but nothing was ready, either. It hasn't been inspected or tagged since September due to the check engine code, so that's first to fix. Need to paint the wheels - the factory coating is wearing off and there's a little surface rust. Power windows, locks, mirrors all work. Cruise works. Lots of HP compared to the stuff I have been driving (4-banger Cherokee, well-worn '90 RX-7, 2008 Kia Spectra5). I like it! Selling my XJ Cherokee to a friend for the cash and space. Best part is that it will get me better gas mileage than the 2.5L Cherokee.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2015 20:44
|
|
|
T1g4h posted:Nice! Looks pretty clean, congrats on the purchase! Thanks! I look forward to driving the hell out of it. djhaloeight posted:White panthers always have problems with the paint peeling, flaking, etc. There's something wrong with the paint or how they applied it IIRC. Maybe someone who knows a bit more about it than I do will chime in. Otherwise, nice Vic for a good price! Yeah, I gathered, from the nature of some of the spots. primer, rather than bare metal showing. Chevy had a similar problem back in the '80s, as I recall, then again in the '90s with the switch to water-based paints.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 31, 2015 01:55
|
|
|
DICKPOCALYPSE NOW posted:98 plain Jane crown vic, can anyone tell me Where the coolant temp sensor harness comes From? That white plug? Wish I could help. I just looked, and my 05 CVPI doesn't have one there. The boss is on the crossover, but unmachined. Sorry!
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2015 01:16
|
|
|
DICKPOCALYPSE NOW posted:The end guess as far as I could tell was that it was a Dorman manifold. I took it off because whoever did their work butchered it and it was hemmoraging coolant. On removal I found no loose or unused plugs, most of the lower intake bolts finger tight, and a standard lower gasketset along with O ring seals in the manifold itself. Reassembled it after getting the correct Dorman replacement O ring kit and eliminated the double gasket OEM ones and all of a sudden no leaks. Gauge works and scan tool data shows coolant temp so I just said gently caress it and left it in there. Yeah, mine gets it from the one on the left side of the coolant passage with the black plug. I bet that one on the left is to accommodate earlier model 4.6s, and should just have a pipe plug.
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2015 16:17
|
|
|
Got one of the rear doors in my P71 working from the inside last night. Used threaded inserts and M6 bolts to replace what rivets I had to drill out. Man, I am so glad I bit that rivnut tool. Probably do the other door tonight. Need to go back to the yard and fine some half-decent carpet, among other things. There was a fresh Town car with leather buckets there. Black, but I can make that work with the grey interior, I think. And what the hell is it with the ash-tray/cupholders on these things? Mine has one cupholder broken, and the face of it that matches the dash is missing. Every one I saw in the yard was either broken, missing the face, or the earlier style. Design flaw?
|
|
#
¿
May 19, 2015 19:21
|
|
|
wolrah posted:The engine itself fits but there are clearance issues with other things in the engine bay, IIRC it was something mounted on the firewall that caused the biggest issue. I think it was one of those things where you could move things around and/or not hook up certain "optional" accessories like A/C and it would fit. Wasn't the Marauder a 32-valve? edit: yep. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Jun 16, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2015 00:32
|
|
|
Huggable Bear King posted:Hey I just came in here to bitch about the exact same problem! It is literally just an under-specced relay in the module. There are folks who have desoldered the relay, soldered in leads, and just used a standard Bosch-style socket relay external to the LCM. The Dorman part is interesting. It's pretty obviously a pass-through that breaks out the headlight relay into their module, accomplishing the same thing with a plug and play solution. Hadn't seen that one before. My LCM is fine (the later models seem to be a bit more reliable), but I need to intercept the turn signal leads to add an external LED-compatible flasher, since that's built in to the LCM as well. Fortunately, it's as easy as snipping two wires and just running them to the aftermarket flasher instead.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2015 17:47
|
|
|
Maksimus54 posted:I just traded my poor beater miata for a 96 Towncar. The driver side air spring is dead. Should I be looking at trying to revive the air suspension or just get a non-air conversion setup? Is it absolutely moronic to be shopping for limited slip diffs for this thing? The air suspension components aren't too expensive, IIRC from looking to convert my P71 (so I can bag the front and go low, of course). Given that it's just the one side, I imaging that it's not the compressor or controller, which are the expensive bits. What's left is the bag and the valve, I think. See if you can tell if air is getting to the bag, and work from there. Rearend should be the same as the same generation Crown Vic, so find you a cop car with limited slip. I've not researched it thoroughly, but a lot of years should fit, up to 2002. 2003 has the wider suspension requiring more positive offset, so the rearend is wider. May physically fit, but would require the later wheels in the back, or they stick out. May not fit due to other suspension changes. Crownvic.net has been a useful resource for me. edit: This may be helpful on the air suspension. http://www.crownvic.net/drock96marquis/RAS.htm
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2016 00:03
|
|
|
MonkeyNutZ posted:Springs and shocks moved as well IIRC. Yep. From this post: "Year for year, the Town Car uses the same rear axle as the CV, GM and MM. The rear axle housing was unchanged for 92-97, then updated w/ watts and parallel control arms and a little more width in 98, and for 03+ the shock mounts were moved over and the axle was made wider. If the Town Car axle was a different width, how could it use the same axle service kit/axle shafts for the bearing wear TSB as the cv/gm/mm? ;\) ;\) The Town Car limos used a 31 spline axle, however they were also the same width. (The Marauder does not use a 31 spline limo axle) In 2005 all panthers went to the 31 spline axle, the 28 spline was dropped from most, if not all Ford 8.8" models." That said, you may be able to interchange just the LSD unit, since they're all 8.8s. Not sure if any of the innards changed.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2016 00:19
|
|
|
Marksimus, you may find this useful: http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2974193 They're talking about a 2011, but a lot of the info is good for across the range. Looks like 8.8 LSDs are cheap and common. Delivery McGee posted:Just got another letter on the LCM issue: it's gone from "customer satisfaction program" to no-bullshit NHTSA Recall 15V-861. If it hasn't crapped out yet, they'll be contacting you shortly (when they get more of the modules in stock), if it has, hie thyself to a dealer immediately. If you've already had it done and paid for it, they might reimburse you (though I'm not sure of my chances of getting reimbursed for the third-party one I got off Amazon.) I got the letter for my 2005 CVPI last week. They're going to hate getting mine out - some of the alarm wiring is kind of tight around there. I hope they don't get weird about the flasher module bypass (LED tails and front signals.) Mine's still working fine - I was just going to do the external relay mod if it failed. Wonder if they will let me keep the "bad" one as a spare... According to the letter, they will reimburse you if you've already had it fixed, if you saved the receipt. No mention of whether it had to be at a dealer or whatever. Worth a try. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Feb 3, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2016 00:36
|
|
|
Delivery McGee posted:I wouldn't be surprised if they refused to do free work on ex-cop cars with butchered wiring. Or if you replaced it yourself vs. having a shop do it. Guess I'll have to call Ford on my next day off and ask. The wiring on mine isn't butchered - it still has all the factory connectors on the extra cop wiring as far as I can tell. I have spliced in a flasher for the LED signals, but I can put it back to factory in minutes if necessary. I would do it myself if they'd just give me the module, but I doubt that will happen. Maksimus54 posted:I went the lame route and converted to coil over. The air spring had been dead for a while and the other side seemed lower than it should have been. I also don't have a garage large enough to accommodate it so I had to take it to a friends shop this time. The entire suspension and steering system is original and showing extreme signs of wear. This will be the first time in 5 years I've paid for shop labor but I just don't have the space or time(Or skill) to do it myself. The air bags are the cheap part. It's only expensive when the compressor or controller goes. I'm sort of wanting to add the air ride to my CVPI, then get some of the RideTech front air coilovers. Those bastards are expensive, though. evilnissan posted:The call of the V8 barge is becoming to much to resist. Hitch is pretty cheap, too. I went with a Curt from Amazon, on Prime, even. Tucks up nicely. Wiring is a bit more tricky, because of the LCM, you need to use an isolating adapter. I just used relays, since the cop cars have the old-style turn/brake lights rather than the separate turn signals on the standard model. Tapped in to the wiring up near the left trunk hinge just so it all went to one place, other than the battery wire. Head unit is easy to replace, and a double DIN will reportedly fit in your year. It's an issue in earlier than 2003 or 4, because, while the face is double-DIN, the actual radio necks down quickly to single DIN at the rear of it. I went with a single DIN Pioneer mechless unit in a dash kit. Sonic Electronix has good prices and includes dash and harness adapters. Delivery McGee handled the LSD part. You could always see if it'll lay a patch on the test drive...
|
|
#
¿
Feb 19, 2016 01:08
|
|
|
Yeah, blinking is bad. Pull codes and see what's dying. Probably coil packs, at a guess.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 25, 2016 02:10
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:Could rear camber cause the rubber to wear out prematurely? Rear camber on a solid axle?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 14, 2016 18:36
|
|
|
Huggable Bear King posted:Anyone else have paint issues? The paint on my roof, rear deck and c pillars is starting to chip and peel. The car is a 2003 with 122k on it, runs great and I've maintained it but I'm trying to decide if it's worth taking it to a professional to fix the paint or if I should sand the bad areas and rattle can it with touch up paint. My '05 has relatively small paint peel issues on the roof and a few other small spots here and there. Not the wholesale swaths of missing paint I've seen on others, but very noticeable still. Going to get after it with the Duplicolor touch up spray when it's warm again. edit: This is the biggest spot:  (spot towards the center near the antenna hole is bird poop.) edit2: right click and open. My hosting is stupid with HTTPS. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Jan 31, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Jan 31, 2017 00:15
|
|
|
Huggable Bear King posted:Oh cool, that's something to consider. I really want a G body El Camino for some stupid reason but people want too much for them and I'm not sure about dally driving a 30 year old GM product. Nothing new has any character and there's too much computer poo poo in the dashboards. It is a defect, especially in the white. Other carmakers had similar problems with low-VOC paint and primer, then water-bourne stuff, as I recall, though I'm pretty sure most other manufacturers fixed it back in the '90s. I've seen P71s with great swaths of paint just missing.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 31, 2017 23:59
|
|
|
Delivery McGee posted:Or, if I could afford the gas, some early-'70s Ford wagon or Ranchero with a 460, or equivalent El Camino (the one that looked like a Chevelle, '70-'72-ish?). Not to be too pedantic, but all El Caminos after '64 looked like Chevelles (or Malibus, when the Chevelle name disappeared.) '59-'63 just looked like a Chevy full-size of the time. quote:Preferably a '65 convertible with black paint and black chrome and black leather and every time you try to operate one of these weird black controls that are labelled in black on a black background, a little black light lights up black to let you know you've done it quote:I've replaced the compressor to have the pulley, but can't afford the charging, and my dad is only licensed for residential systems so doesn't have the hoses for 134a The MHVAC technician license is like $30, and the test is online and open book. Also, you can buy 134a and the hoses without a license. No one checks at the auto parts store/Harbor Freight. fake edit: $20: http://www.macsw.org/WEB/MACS/Secti...dd-27fd9b9153f6 quote:Chevy with the 2-speed OG auto, whatever it was called Powerglide. Had a '68 El Camino with one, and a 327. I should have kept that car, but young and stupid.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 8, 2017 21:21
|
|
|
Raluek posted:An El Camino might be light enough to be fun with that combo, but my Impala had that drivetrain combo originally and I'm glad it's a 350/350 now. That extra stroke and extra gear really help it un-rear end. Oh, if it still had it, there's no way it would still be a PG. Poor thing was spinning pretty good on the highway. It had some body issue, but still should have kept it. My grandad's brother had a '66 Impala 4-door with a 283/Powerglide. It was mint. I drove it back from a swap meet where we were selling it after my great uncle passed. Did the country roads nicely. Rode great, cornered like a boat. Not too quick, though.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2017 22:48
|
|
|
What's the service interval on the timing chains and/or tensioners on a 4.6? Mine rattles a little bit at cold startup, and the idle seems to lope a bit. I actually like the idle, because lopey V8, but I don't think they're supposed to do that, and I'm concerned that the cams are wandering around a bit. Random VVT, as it were. edit: gently caress. http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/115 quote:Symptoms of a broken timing chain guide can range from a rattle noise on startup (not always) to rough idle to a check engine light. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Mar 8, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2017 21:41
|
|
|
Metal Geir Skogul posted:Yeah, no cupholder. I'll look for that now, didn't know what it was supposed to be. Yeah, I had that same problem. The 03-11 ones are a little fragile - the pop-out arms love to break. I found a functional one in the right color (found a yard littered with P71s) for mine. I think I have another. What color is the innards of yours? Should be either black or "flint" grey, I think. Possibly tan. Also, go to Walmart. For $30, they have this console: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Auto-Drive-Minivan-Center-Console-Gray/36259986 It's cheap, but works. If you want sturdier, a lot of the Jeep aftermarket consoles work. Thread here for what some other folks are doing for consoles, but requires registration: http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1741010 Crownvic.net is decent for technical info.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 10, 2017 23:43
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:Interior is stained but not particularly worn down. Real backseats; I was under the impression they would swap the real seats back in when they auctioned the car off. No signs of a removed barricade between front and rear, either. Standard rear seat on P71s is black vinyl. Matching fabric was optional. Here's another tell: do the rear doors open from the inside, and is there a lock knob? Do the power windows work from the rear door switches? I had to go get door actuator and lock rods from another Panther, and plug the window switch harness connector back in.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2017 21:44
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:Cloth seats all around, split bench front, rear inner door handles work, only the standard child lock, rear windows work from rear switches. Yeah, sounds like a detective car. Probably just happened to be a white one that someone decided would be better not-white. Seat Safety Switch posted:So my '88 Town Car has AM radio, and tape, but not FM radio (it just seeks forever and plays static). Does anyone know which of the two antennas is the one that works for FM? FM usually doesn't take much of an antenna. Check the connection at the back of the radio. The boomerang antennas were usually TV. No idea how the antenna toggle is supposed to work.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2017 04:38
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:Mine is doing that too, I'm a couple trips away from just yanking the ABS fuse. There's a way to get the fault code from the ABS, I think. O'Reilly's Auto had a ODB2 reader that could also read the manufacturer-specific stuff, at least on the '96 Grand Marquis I took them to pull codes. In tat case, it was showinf a bad LF sensor, but the sensor checked out (how to check was online - it's just a VR sensor, IIRC, so readable with a multimeter,) and the wiring was OK to the module, so likely a bad module.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2017 02:03
|
|
|
Neat! I think I may need that. I need to go to the wrecking yard and acquire an F150 overhead console module. I have a CV overhead console, but the module is just a compass. They only used it in civvie models that already had a temp display in the dash with the auto air, but since I have a P71, I want it in the overhead console. The F150 console is different, but appears to have the same module case. I just need to wire in the sensor. I tried to use a Town Car module, but they get data from the car's diagnostic bus, which apparently won't work with the CV. Pity; the TC console I have has Homelink as well. Apparently I can just dig a standalone Homelink out of any Ford, or any vehicle that has it really, since all they need is power and mounting. I can get one of the sun visor mounted ones. I'm going to need change my sun visors if I put in the overhead console anyway. But first, I really should do the timing chain guides, I think. The idle is hinting quite a bit now, but not enough to trigger a check engine light.
|
|
#
¿
May 31, 2017 22:38
|
|
|
Yeah, Ford has some hella-grippy panel clips. A lot of GM fuse blocks had, maybe still have, extra recessed male terminals that were extremely handy for adding stuff. My CV is a cop car, so it's got an entire sub-harness under the glovebox with additional fused battery and accessory feeds, and power feeds to the trunk, too, from the big fusebox under the hood. Came in handy for the modest amp I'm using.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 21, 2017 23:11
|
|
|
Scotch-loks are a crime against electronics everywhere. You will regret using them. Get a Weller 125 watt soldering gun (not iron) for doing car stuff in situ. And keep the tip and mounting nuts thereof clean and tight. (Former mobile electronics installer, here)
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2017 17:35
|
|
|
Luxrage posted:So, in some unfortunate news, my friend who owned this sweet black '85 LTD Crown Vic had to sell it I am sad that you did not post it here in SA to sell for him. To me, specifically.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 1, 2017 21:34
|
|
|
wolrah posted:I'd put more effort in to checking your existing grounds. If you have a bad ground somewhere, adding another one might even make the problem worse unless you accidentally end up putting the new one basically where the bad one is. I'd agree that I would suspect an antenna issue, or at the very least, the noise coming in on the antenna lead. Sounds like the shielding on the lead is not grounded.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2017 23:47
|
|
|
Luxrage posted:I ordered some color samples for a new leather steering wheel cover for the Country Squire today, the OEM leather one on it came with was cracking pretty badly. Wheelskins? I'm very happy with the grey one I bought for my P-71. The smooth skin on the vinyl of my wheel was flaking, exposing the foam. It fit very well. I'd really like to restitch it, because I didn't get it tight enough at a couple of the seams (4 sections on mine, since I got the perforated leather). You've got to *pull* that poo poo. Bought one for my wife's car, too, just need to set aside an hour or so when it's not beastly hot to do hers.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 7, 2017 17:33
|
|
|
Luxrage posted:I think the wheel is smaller on the pre-92s, but hopefully it'll be easy enough. I'm not too sure I'll be able to stitch it properly, it looks complicated! Oh, it is, definitely in the thickness of the grip, if not the diameter. The late Crown Vics have one of the beefiest steering wheels ever, and I love it. Wheelskins' site has a selector to find the right size, and it was dead on. I just was too afraid to pull as hard as needed on the laces, initially. Turns out, they're pretty strong.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 8, 2017 22:37
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:My ball joints are wonky and I'm thinking about doing upper/lower control arms and shock/struts. Never done it on a Panther. Do the springs need to be compressed to de-install/replace, or will it fit in ok with the control arms opened up? What year? 2003+ actually have coilovers.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 12, 2017 17:13
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:2003. If I replace the whole coilover, can I avoid messing around with spring compressors? Yep, but then you have to pay for the new springs, too. At least, I assume that you can buy a complete assembly, like a "quick-strut" for McPherson strut cars. CharlieWhiskey posted:Awesome. Any recommended brands for control arms or coilovers? Any sporty setups? P71 stuff is stiffer/heavier duty than civilian standard. Not sure on the LX Sport stuff. Eaton Detroit makes 1" and 1-1/2" lowering springs for CV/P71 http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/ccrp-1012-eaton-detroit-ford-crown-victoria-lowering-springs/ http://www.eatondetroitspring.com/ordering/parts-lookup/ Front: MC5412-15 $199.95/pr Rear: MC3895-15 $199.95/pr Coil Spring Specialties can custom make springs, roughly the same price: http://www.coilsprings.com http://www.coilsprings.com/request_quote.aspx Coil Spring Specialties does them to order, so you can get the drop you want, and the spring rate you want. Ride Tech makes Shockwaves for the Panther, Front, Part #: 12262409: $800 http://www.ridetech.com/store/2003-up-ford-crown-victoria-front-shockwaves-pair.html Pair those with the OEM rear airbags and inflation system of your choice. Then you can do this:  or this  And still be able to drive the thing. Google images can show you what the 1" or 1-1/2" dropped ones look like (nice.) The P71s, interestingly, are typically just a bit taller than civilian, supposedly to make traversing curbs and such easier.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 13, 2017 17:16
|
|
|
Just ran across this: Love those widened OEM 17" steelies.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 13, 2017 17:21
|
|
|
Luxrage posted:So this weekend I did a couple different odd-jobs with the cars. Yes, lacing those up is hard on the fingers. So worth it, though. quote:I did more research and found out the squire's leather wheel was actually made in the factory, and the wheel itself is built around having that leather wrap on it, so I'm a bit worried taking it off is going to be more than just replacing the leather wrap on the wheel, since the wheel seems to be built for the factory installed one. I might try leather treating it and seeing how that goes first! You could always install a slightly larger cover over the existing one. You can order the Wheelskins covers based on size, rather then application. quote:The other thing that I'm having issues with is the car is considtently pulling to the left. I've had the tires rotated, had the alignment done, had the car's front end looked at, and it's all come up fine. The only thing I'm noting is that the car is extremely bitey on the brakes when it's cold, and when I had the car jacked up after sitting for a day, you could barely turn the front right wheel. I wonder if the brakes are grabbing or if the front right wheel bearing is starting to go... Take a look at the caliper, or it's sliders. That definitely sounds like a stuck brake issue. quote:The one upside to all of this is today I got approved to get a really cheap mortgage on a home loan, so as of today I'm looking for a house with a garage! As much as home ownership can suck (I'm about to drop $5400 on plumbing, FML) the fact that it's *mine*, and there's a garage is mighty compensating.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2017 21:11
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:Yeah, check both brakes and make sure the pads/shoes/calipers are actually backing off after braking. Also make sure brake hoses are not pinched or kinked. How old are the brakes? It's cool. I didn't think about the brake lines.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2017 23:16
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:If the leather wrap is OEM then you bet your rear end it will be well-glued on in addition to the lacing, probably with something epoxylike. You will end up cutting and shaving it. Going overtop will be so so much easier. This is what I will be doing on my wife's Kia, for example. The OEM leather is flaking on hers, so still a good surface for over-wrap. Plus it will make the wheel a bit beefier, which it needs. I'm too used to the ridiculously fat wheel in my '05 P71 now.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2017 17:26
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 30, 2024 09:13 |
|
|
bigtom posted:...ONE OF US...ONE OF US! Depending on the year, it may be the Lighting Control Module. The Panthers are famous for the LCM failing in some odd way. There's even a current recall, because it can also affect the headlights. Basically, the usual problem is that the relays in side the module are poo poo, and soldered in.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2017 19:10
|
|