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OK: I'm afraid that this is awakening the stupid in me. 1970 Lincoln Continental, about 1.5 hours from me. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-Con...=US_Cars_Trucks The story is that this was nearly mint, and sold to an overseas buyer, but fell off of the truck or something during loading. It's got a lot of cosmetic damage and was apparently totalled by the insurance co of the buyer. Car is titled in OH. According to the current seller (who, based on where the car is currently sitting, was probably involved in the shipping pipeline for this car), the insurer that totalled it didn't get a salvage title, but just had the OH title marked, "for parts only." Car comes with the OH title, so marked. Basically, the title is worthless. This reeks to me, because any US insurer would insist on getting the title when they pay out on a constructive total loss, then flip it to a salvage title. If this thing had a salvage title, I would have bought it already, since it appears completely driveable & capable of passing NJ inspection once I get buttreamed through the road title conversion process. What I do not know is: if this was in fact an overseas buyer, who had insurance from another country, they may not have the same title-flipping procedure. Can anyone confirm if that is so? In any event, I doubt I'd be able to get a NJ salvage title. There's the ghost of a chance of contacting the original owner in OH & seeing if he'll request a replacement title...but even if he were willing (and that it's not some estate sale & the guy is dead), he theoretically could hold me hostage for the clean title. Any ideas on how to get this thing legal? I don't mind driving it around in it's current condition...
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Feb 25, 2015 03:54
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Remember that Lincoln a few posts up? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-Con...=US_Cars_Trucks If it's too good to be true...(mine in italics) As an insurance co constructive total loss, this vehicle should have a salvage title...if you do not have it, are you able to put the buyer in touch with the insurer who totalled it, in order to get the salvage paperwork? This would make it far easier (though by no means easy) to get the title restored to a standard road-use title here in NJ. I have an original title available but the prior owner wrote buyer's name in the back and as per Insurance Co. request, it now says "Parts Car" or "Parts Only". That title in not transferrable at this point. All you have to do is file for a new title with one of the companies that handle such cases. Just in case and only if you are serious I will provide you with someone who will help. Thanks...I am interested in this vehicle if as long as there is a NJ Salvage title. The insurer that totalled the vehicle would request one as a matter of procedure (I am an insurance adjuster) so I can convert the title back to road use. I live in Gloucester County. Where was it titled, if not NJ? There is an Ohio title, clear but with the prior buyer's name on it and signed over. The Insurance company which paid for the damages requested to mark the title parts only... So this is what we have. You'd have to file for a new title through one of the companies that handle lost titles or similar issues. I have a contact just in case. Since you hold what is in essence a damaged title - if the title in fact is still a road title but marked up - that means it still shows in the Ohio DMV as owned by the guy whose name is on the title. That being the case, what legal document can you furnish in the way of a receipt for money paid for this car? How could I legally transact & take possession without involving the person whose name is on the title? Thanks The only thing I can provide you with is a Bill of Sale. A bill of sale is acceptable, so long as you can document that you are the legal owner of the car. What documentation can you furnish? Or are you a proxy for the legal owner? I can provide you with a bill of sale. If you need it notarized I can handle that also. The problem with a bill of sale, notarized or not, is that you, as the seller, have to prove that you are the legal owner of the vehicle before any transaction can occur. Otherwise, I am handing you money for a piece of paper, not a vehicle, and even if I take possession physically, in the absence of some other legal instrument showing that you have unencumbered rights as the owner, it still belongs to the person named on the title in the eyes of Ohio law. Based on what I know so far, there is nothing stopping the person whose name appears on the title from asserting ownership of the vehicle. If you are willing to provide the name, address, title number and VIN, I will contact the title-holder to determine if he is willing to obtain a replacement title (at my expense) and sign that title over once your involvement is established and you & I transact our business. I am somewhat surprised that you have not already done this, but I am willing if you are. Regards, It'll be interesting to see if he responds.
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Feb 25, 2015 16:50
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General_Failure posted:Selfquote! On drum brakes, there's typically a leading shoe & a trailing shoe. The leading shoe (mounted on the front) has a shorter run of lining than the trailing shoe. If you mount then backwards, it is possible for some wacky braking characteristics to arise.
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Mar 1, 2015 04:44
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:So I went and had the road force balancing done. It improved things immensely but I still have a slight shimmy. The tech seemed to think it has something to do with the one mismatched tire I have. Still doesn't explain why sears couldn't seem to get it right. I can deal with it for another year or so until its time for new tires. It may mean nothing, but I had all sorts of problems eliminating shimmy at certain speeds on a new set of tires. After almost three years of trying an embarrassing number of fixes, including having the front end aligned twice, all four tires balanced three times at two separate shops, swapping out the driveshaft (I have a spare) and contemplating rebuilding the entire driveline behind the transmission, I gave up and bought new tires. All problems disappeared. Turned out to be a cheap-rear end set of hosed-up tires.
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Mar 15, 2015 04:50
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Lord, I hope that this is a stupid question. I acquired an '01 Dodge Intrepid that was maintained to death by the PO, my best friend's father (a retired engineer). Even though it has a 2.7 it runs perfectly. Today, I decided to removed the Sony CD changer, which involved pulling the console cover over the shifter (to get to the radio console). I could not remove it entirely due to how the shift lever & its leather boot are installed, so I horsed it out of the way & finished the job. This did involve occasionally moving the shifter back & forth to get at screws, etc. After an uneventful reassembly, I found that the battery was nearly dead (clicked on trying to start, but had enough juice for lights) . I have known that the battery was dying since I got the car - was going to change it out when it warmed up. Deciding to charge the battery, I found I could not remove the key from the ignition. I eventually figured out that the horsing of the shift console caused the leather boot to bunch up in a way that prevented the lever from being completely seated in Park. However, that knowledge came later. I eventually wrestled the shifter fully into Park & got the key out of the ignition, set up the charger & left it alone for 4-hours. On return, I entered the car & it started right up. I shut it off, and couldn't get the key out. After about a half hour, I sorted the console issue, and the key/ignition block behaved normally. I removed the battery charger & put it away, and left the car. About an hour later, after sunset, I happened to look out my kitchen window & noticed that the instrument lights were on - as though the car were running. I found the car not running, no key in it, but the dash lights were on. This is when I went down the rabbit hole - there was no way to turn them off. Returning with the key, I started the car without any issue or weirdness. I turned the key to the off position & removed it. The car remained running & the dash lights stayed on. I cycled the key /ignition switch every which way, but nothing happened. WTF. I cycled the ignition off, and removed the key (dash/instrument lights burning), and pondered what to do next. Within 20-seconds, the engine began to run rough, stumble, then died. Dash lights stayed on. I started it again, then cycled the ignition off, and removed the key; died within 20-seconds. Totally confused, I searched online & found only that there is a cutoff relay that, if removed, kills the engine. Tried this and it worked. Instrumemt lights stayed on. Next advice: maybe that relay's bad. Switch it out. Nope; no change. The only other advice was to disconnect the battery, wait a half-hour, and reconnect it. No change. Tried it twice. I did note that there was a lot of sparking when I reconnected the neg batteery line - as if there was something drawing a fair bit of current - and I could also hear a faint, anemic buzzy whining that stopped & started depending on whether or not the battery was connected. None of the fuses are blown. I could not trace this noise. Perhaps it's the fuel pump? My only conclusion is that I somehow porked the ECU when I charged it. This car has never had a day's trouble in the past three years, and no issues since I bought it two months ago. It's been boringly dependable. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Feb 27, 2017 |
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Feb 27, 2017 04:05
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By charging the battery? 
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Feb 27, 2017 06:03
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Godholio posted:By messing with it trying to get the key out. The key was never forced - just switched through its detents. It is a floor shift, not column. The radio came out & went back in without issue or force. The only wiring involved was to the two Jones plugs for the radio, and one for the climate control (all are working properly). These wires were sleeved twice over in addition to the factory shrink tubing. There is no other wiring that runs anywhere near the area I was working. If there is any wiring in the car that is actuated by the action of the shift lever, it's in the engine compartment. Excessive force came in only when pushing the shift lever up into Park before I figured out it was the boot bunching up. The area that was stressed was the (plastic) front of the shifting slot more than anything else. Since being resolved, the shifter passes cleanly through all detents and drops into and comes out of Park cleanly (and the transmission shifts into its various gears normally, and the dash indicator correctly shows the gear selection), and the key block too operates cleanly (which, of course, does not mean that the switch itsef isn't FUBAR, just a cosmic coincidence that it failed when the battery was charged). So far the two likeliest issues are the ASD relay and the ignition switch. Every fuse I could see is unblown. What's odd is that, even with the ASD relay pulled, there's still this faint, weird buzzing sound coming from somewhere. I pulled every underhood fuse & relay, and it wouldn't stop. I was unable to trace it to a source in the dark & cold last night, will try again today. It only stops when battery power is pulled, and starts up again when restored. I appreciate everyone's input thus far; I'll see of I can figure out what/where to test. I am not ruling out something missed, or spectaculary stupid, on my part. Godholio, the is more embematic of this entire situation than your (welcome) suggestion; apologies if it came off as an editorial on your comment.e: I will replace the ignition switch today. It's relatively easy & the part runs $32.00 PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Feb 27, 2017 |
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Feb 27, 2017 14:32
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Thank you for these! Will be printing... Possible interesting development: I failed to mention in my OP that, at the same moment that the non-stopping issue developed, the check engine light came on. In its last act before completely dying, my (well, formerly) trusty AutoRay EZ Scan 6000 read an evap fault code in the fuel tank. This car has never previously thrown a code. I was chatting with a (self-described) Mopar mechanic on in inquiry site (paywall) and he eventually pulled up a bulletin that said tha there may be corrosion of a contact that creates an intermittent connection with Connector 308, which is located under the back seat. The Dodge Intrepid forums showed up on a search of "Connector 308 back seat" with the following: Those two wires are both for the evaporative emissions leak detection pump located on the gas tank. White/green stripe - the PCM turns the leak detection pump on/off via this wire Orange/red stripe - this wire is connected to a switch in the leak detection pump assembly that opens or closes in response to a leak in the evaporative emissions system. It is basically a pressure switch. One end of the switch is connected to +12V, the other end of the switch is connected to the PCM. It is basically useless to try to measure anything from these two wires without a special diagnostic tool because the leak detection system only operates intermittently. You should also have a green/black stripe wire coming out of that same plug, which supplies +12V to the leak detection pump and switch. Not all vehicles are equipped with a leak detection system, so you might not have that wire. Hmmmmmm. it is looking more & more like a coincidental issue with this connector. That weird whiny sound I'm hearing may be that leak detection pump. Stay tuned. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Feb 27, 2017 |
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Feb 27, 2017 16:18
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Godholio posted:My first thought is that you borked the ignition switch. '01 Intrepid, continued: I picked up an ignition switch & cutoff relay. Too late to install them today. I chased down the specified Jones plug for the evap/fuel tank circuits under the back seat cushion (pass side) and found it...pristine. I gave the flat contacts a few light passes with a mini-file, just in case, & reassembled it. No joy. The whiny, buzzy sound that resembles the final death rattle of the Geico gecko seems to be originating from the vicinity of the underhood power center, which is located on the left front fender. Pulling every fuse & relay did nothing. I did get it to stop by pulling apart the fron-most of a pair of honkin' great black Jones plugs that run from the power center & possibly into the passenger compartment. It sits, de-energized, until I replace the key switch. If I in fact killed the ECU, I should be able to pick one up at a salvage yard. Aside from making sure it's from a 2.7 car - and figuring out where it is - is there anything else I need to know about it?
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Feb 28, 2017 04:41
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PainterofCrap posted:Lord, I hope that this is a stupid question. Update: Replaced the ignition switch. No change. Replaaced the ASD relay. No change. Now, the engine won't accelerate past 4K RPM. At just before, it starts loping. I imagine that this would manifest as a bucking/significant loss of power if it was underway. I don't know if this is new; this is the first time I accelerated the engine above maybe 1800-RPM since I charged thebattery and all of this poo poo started. To recap: car starts and runs normally (except the 4K RPM thing). When I shut it off and remove the key: - It stays running, then stumbles & dies after about 15-seconds. - The check engine light is on (which indicated an evap issue in the fuel system before my OBDII reader died). - The oil light & a couple other warning lights stay on. The radio, turn signals, etc do not work once the ignition is switched off. There is something drawing current and a faint, medium-pitched buzzing that only stops when the battery is disconnected; it resumes once power is restored. I'm out of ideas. except replacing the ECU. I may just junk it at this point. e: the bouncing at 4000 RPM may be a rev limiter feature. Thanks, Chrysler! PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Mar 1, 2017 |
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Mar 1, 2017 21:19
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There are plastic snap rivet fasteners that secure that panel all around the perimeter where it meets metal; either the snaps along the radiator support aren't fully seated, or the rad support is bent...or the cover was deformed on whatever car it came from, and it sorta set like that. If the fasteners & rad support look good, and it's just sorta bulging in that spot, try playing a hair dryer (takes forever) or heat gun (much faster, but start further away, move it around a lot faster, & watch your rear end) over the area & see if heating it up gets it to relax back into the proper shape.
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Mar 4, 2017 16:27
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CharlieWhiskey posted:If it helps, I looked at the picture before reading your post and didn't notice anything. Even after reading your post, I still have to look for it. On a scale where 1 is notice and 5 is did not notice, here is everybody: WHAT ARE YOU TRYING TO SAY I mean, drat SON 
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Mar 4, 2017 22:26
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Believe that you have to go to the dealer for that one, & they throw some device on it, and key in the VIN, & sorta re-flash it.
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Mar 10, 2017 04:19
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FBS posted:So after getting in my first ever fender-bender on my birthday a couple months back, today I noticed a nice big series of scrapes on the front passenger door, from I guess some rear end in a top hat in a parking lot this week. Nope, as noted: however, it'll never be cheaper to have it repaired & painted than while it's in the shop getting the prior issue fixed. Ask the shop.
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Mar 11, 2017 03:49
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Preoptopus posted:There all going to break. Go to a parts store with what's left of one and they will match you up. Probably a good bet your nozzles will break of you mess with them too much. Dealer only so be carefull. Or try hitting up a salvage yard to score spare nozzles. You're bound to get lucky with, like, every third one. I mean it; that's what I did with the '01 Intrepid, although I had no luck getting hood pad clips. You can also pick up a ridiculous quantity of them (pad clips) on eBay for cheap.
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Mar 12, 2017 19:02
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I check the gaps on all new plugs, but I run old iron. Get a proper set of feeler gauges. They make (or made) proper pin gauges for plugs - folding or open. The sets also have a slotted key that fits over the ground, so that you can bend it in or out by levering on the ground itself, without ever touching the electrode: 
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Mar 16, 2017 01:45
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Immolat1on posted:So I scratched the poo poo out of the side of my car while shoveling it out of a snow bank. Polishing compound. Follow the directions & go easy & light. Then finish with a little carnauba wax. If the scratches aren't too deep, they should virtually disappear.
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Mar 17, 2017 01:45
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If there is liability only on the car (e: beaten to death)
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Mar 29, 2017 14:06
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Convert it to propane.
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Mar 29, 2017 23:33
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Dominoes posted:I'm looking for a car; moving from UK to US. It will mostly be used for a 1-hour highway commute with me listening to audiobooks. Can't have much road/engine noise. Can't be twitchy (ie no miatas with a ripped top). I don't plan to have kids anytime soon. Something fun would be nice. I currently drive an R3 RX-8; basically I'd like that, but with good fuel econ. Ie it's reliable, fun, looks great inside/out, nice interior etc. Looking light-moderately used. Maybe the toyota/subaru/etc sports car that came out a few years ago? Or is that not good for audiobook-commuting? I'd consider a tesla, but I think apartment-living will eliminate that option. I have this 2001 Intrepid. e: missed the mileage requirement
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Apr 14, 2017 01:54
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spog posted:Personally I would set aside 1 hour on the first Sunday of every month for a bloody good run. Historically known as an "Italian tune-up"
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Apr 24, 2017 03:17
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:You've already retracted the piston completely? Because if you haven't, a crowbar works nicely if the rotor's being replaced.
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May 2, 2017 01:50
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Weird old-car braking issue: 66 Pontiac Bonneville; 4-wheel power drum brakes. All-new wheel cylinders; hoses less than 5-YO; shoes have less than 4000-miles on them. I have had this problem for about eight years; changed the wheel cylinders, shoes, hoses; adjusted each side (and the rears) endlessly; the single-reservoir master was rebuilt by White Post & sleeved in brass in 2008. I change the brake fluid every 3-4 years. Problem: after driving for more than a couple minutes after the last application of brakes, the next pedal push, the car pulls to the right, lightly, but enough to track the car that way if I take my hand off the tiller during initial braking. If I come off, then apply again immediately, it brakes straight. It's been doing it so long & so consistently, I automatically start pulling the steering wheel to the left as soon as I put my foot on the pedal. Alignment's good. Tires are 3-YO, have about 4K on them. I drive this thing less than 1500-miles/year. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 22:09 on May 5, 2017 |
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May 5, 2017 22:04
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Serious answer: It sounds like you are already a drum brake master, but I'll mention the obvious since you didn't call it out: if it pulls to the right, then the right side is fine and it must be the left. Most likely culprit is a collapsed/crimped brake line. Trace the left line all the way and look for trouble spots. Also double check auto-adjusters and parking brakes. I'm ready to pull the soft line on the left front. It's not that old, but one of the hoses that was on this car when I bought it (in 2000) had busted the inner-most ply, so that pressurized brake fluid would cause the loose section to flap across the inner hose & block pressure to the wheel cylinder. Impossible to tell visually; I cut & peeled the hose open, later, and found it. When that happened, it nearly yanked the wheel out of my hand. Drove straight home granny-style, in first, in dirty underwear. I actually have a new set of hoses, it's about the last thing I haven't replaced (since '01) and  on discs. About $3200 because the knuckles & balljoints gotta be changed too...Tomarse posted:Did you replace the springs on the shoes when you did the shoes?. If not then if one is weaker then I guess the shoe could sit closer to the drum after a brake application? Yeah; all brand-new hardware & I cleaned & lubed up the self-adjusters. A bitch, but still easier than Chrysler's weirdo rig. And all four drums are true. Thanks, guys. Will keep you posted.
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May 6, 2017 00:29
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Raluek posted:Could it be that the shoes aren't adjusted the same left to right? First application of the pedal moves the shoes into position, and one side grabs first. Then they haven't retracted all the way when you apply the second time, so both sides are near the drum, and they apply at the same time and don't pull. I have adjusted the gently caress out of the shoes. The only time I ever (temporarily) solved the issue was by adjusting the opposite wheel tighter. Worked fabulous for a while. edit: tires were replaced two years ago & the alignment is good, while that subject is coming up... joat mon posted:Does it have residual pressure check valves? Could one be broken/ missing? wesleywillis posted:Does it have a proportioning valve? Can it be adjusted if it does? As noted, yes, it has a front-to-rear block, not adjustable. It's 51-years old & built with stone-age tech. Enourmo posted:What you need to do is pull off the drum, inspect the cylinder to make sure it's not seizing, remove all the other hardware and make sure it's not binding up. I replaced the front wheel cylinders about four years ago; no change. Replaced the shoes less than a year ago:  Enourmo posted:Then throw all that poo poo in the trash and do a4 wheel disc conversion. I have three sets of shoes (front & back) and two sets of hardware/spring packs. It's wearing the factory drums, and I intend to keep it that way until I die. (by the way, Enourmo, your av cracks me up, every time) PO took really good care of this car. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:29 on May 7, 2017 |
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May 7, 2017 15:22
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dis astranagant posted:Anyone know a good way to get duck tape residue off rubber parts? WD-40, followed by alcohol
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May 9, 2017 13:25
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I have owned neary forty cars since 1978, at least eight makes, with paint jobs of every conceiveable type and condition. Not once has bird poo poo damaged the finish, including the giant load of gull guano that was the size of a fried egg and the consistency of dried oatmeal, with fish bones in it, baking in the seaside sun for two days. Eggs/albumin, yes. Birdshit: no.
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May 27, 2017 21:52
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melon cat posted:I have a stupid question about a car noise. 2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Whenever I start up the car there's an ear-splitting squealing noise. So, I replaced both serpentine belts (it was overdue). But the squealing sound is still there. Observe (be warned- the squealing noise is loud)! It could be that the pulleys are glazed or have oil/contaminant on them. If they're tightened to spec, try spraying them with belt dressing or a water-based degreaser (like Zep orange, properly diluted) and see if the sound abates. The belts are loosest when cold & tighten as they heat up, so the squeal would typically be most severe at start-up..
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May 28, 2017 03:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yep, there are plastic plugs that fit in there. I don't know; I hear ATF makes an excellent skin conditioner/pomade.
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Jun 19, 2017 04:01
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monsterzero posted:My Silverado has riveted in place lower ball joints. What's the least poo poo way to knock them out? Options I've come up with: I had riveted ball joints in my '66 Bonneville when I bought it. Just drilled 'em out...although I had pulled the control arms to replace the bushings as well since they too were FUBAR. Be sure the fasteners that you replace them with are Grade 8. I got decent replacement ball joints but they came with lovely nuts & bolts that stripped out. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Jun 25, 2017 |
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Jun 25, 2017 05:53
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(and if so is this a trivial thing or are we talking a case or more?)
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monsterzero posted:So you're saying I should buy a drill press??? Thanks! I'll drill them out. The rivets aren't tungsten carbide or anything; they hand-drill out surprisingly easily. If you have one, hit the rivet heads with a center punch so the bit doesn't dance all over. As far as installing them goes, with some type of nut-locking it doesn't really matter. In my case: between the flanging of my stamped control-arms, and the nearby bulk of the joint in the lowers, it was only feasible to install them with the nut up, as I couldn't get anything in the little space that was left except needlenose Vise-Grips. After installation, I smeared the exposed threads with grease. I just replaced a lower last week that I had installed in 2001 (it was a crappy design and the boot ripped); the threads were perfect under the accumulated black gunk. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Jun 25, 2017 |
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Jun 25, 2017 15:12
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Godholio posted:I'd rather change my brakes five times than the clutch once. Even drum brakes.
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Jul 1, 2017 15:57
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blk posted:I've never experienced milkshake before. Is this what it looks like, or does it look more like grease from a CV joint with a torn boot? That's axle grease.
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Jul 2, 2017 07:31
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Gray Stormy posted:I didn't think this warranted it's own thread: I replaced the passenger side view mirror a few weeks back on my wife's 07 Jetta(Wolfsburg if it matters) without any issues. Fast forward a week or so to yesterday, when I replaced the drivers side view. That was my thread with the '01 Intrepid. It was a defective power mirror switch (diagnosed by ubermensch Adiabatic) that was apprarenty crosswired or shorted or something. I replaced it with another aftermarket switch & it was fine. Try unplugging the controls etc in the door & see if everything works again. VVVV yeah, it was backfeeding through the grounds PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Jul 4, 2017 |
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Jul 4, 2017 04:14
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I have the HF 3-finger jobbie & it works like a charm with an impact wrench. If it seemed to be straining, I'd stop & give the knuckle a lick or two with the ball-peen while it's under tension (with the castle nut on, of course). Never failed to pop.
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Jul 6, 2017 04:33
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:GPS antennas (2 antennas for positional stuff with NEW NEW cop cars) or license plate cameras with box covers. Other radio packages, too. Police cruisers have cell data, wifi, and sometimes mesh networks now. That last one is for SETI. 
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Jul 8, 2017 23:55
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The Door Frame posted:Are straight sixes anywhere near as good as people say they are? I get the feeling that it's just a combination of hate against lazy GM and Chrysler FWD V6's, and also a weird cargo-cult built around the Supra and high performance BMW's You can't kill a Mopar Slant 6. At least: not easily. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Jul 11, 2017 |
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Jul 11, 2017 02:04
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Jack B Nimble posted:So here's my stuck hood hinges. I did try hitting the hinge much harder with the dead blow but 1) it still wasn't really that hard, I'd need probably a heavy wooden stake and a real sledge hammer 2) I reeeaaally want to make sure that there's not a "trick" instead... You need to get that bent stop back forward ahead of the upper strut. I would NOT remove the hinge to do this. You want to use a long (+5') piece of 1x2 or 2x3 & pry it forward at the joint, using the firewall as a levering base. OR Joat mon 's suggestion: If you have a couple of tiedown straps, you might try something like this on each spring.  Hitting it won't work as the spring is absorbing most of the force of the blow. Once to get it back off & closing normally, you can try & bend that tab back to 90-degrees, but it'll remain weak...but strong enough to retain the spring if you remove the unit to replace with another from a yard. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 13:33 on Jul 25, 2017 |
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Jul 25, 2017 13:30
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Jack B Nimble posted:So attaching the ratchet straps to the hood hinges worked great - the hood now opens and closes! But I have a couple permanent problem now; one is that the hinges are permanently bad - they hold the hood up fine but they will go past their normal full lock and get stuck again. Maybe I can just pinch/bend the hinge so that the tab that supposed to limit the range of movement works, but that's honestly the lesser of two issues. The bigger problem is that the hood is bent - it's maybe an inch short at the front and more at the apex of the curves on the side. Hold up! Before you start beating on the hood panel, let's be sure it's actually bent, and not out of alignment. With the hinge problem you have, it is quite possible that it (the hinge bracket assembly) has been bent in a way that throws off the shut-lines between the hood, fender & front-end lip. Please post photos with the hood shut - one from the side, showing the vertical (mis)alignment, and at a couple along the front, preferably shooting from above down (or at least at a very steep angle down) showing the fender shut-line, and maybe one more from the front back along the hood/fender top plane. You'd be surprised how much of that can be adjusted out. If the hinge is bent, though, you may need to have to replace it before alignment of the shut-lines can be truly restored.
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Aug 6, 2017 02:11
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 11:05 |
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Jack B Nimble posted:I got the cable latch replaced, feels like quite a victory since it's been like that for about 3 years and it also let me replace the busted grill Uh, hood's good & pranged, whale away on that all day, you might get lucky. Then hit a salvage yard for a new hood when you can.
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Aug 7, 2017 14:13
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I also spent a puzzled minute wondering how I was going to route the cable so that it was juuust the right length so that the mechanism would latch and unlatch from the 2 inches of movement on the switch - but then of course I saw that it's designed to be fasted to the mechanism, thank you, engineers from 30 years ago.