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28mm minis are probably going to be too small for cake toppers. Unless you're going to have a tiny cake.
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May 7, 2015 09:11
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Foolster41 posted:Yeah, I like painting, but I admit I can get a bit impatient. Also the one big disadvantage of bones figures is they tend to have white spots appear in gaps after being painted, and it seems to take lots of repainting to get rid of the white spots I've been painting a lot Bones lately, and I have a lot of luck with Velejo Surface primer. It comes in a variety of colors, you might want to try grey or black when you're starting out. It's harder to cover with bright colors, but you won't have any white spots showing through if you don't manage to get full coverage. Just brush it on straight out of the bottle on the whole mini and let it dry, then paint over it.
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May 16, 2016 21:04
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I use white, it's great. But yeah you gotta shake it well.
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May 17, 2016 16:25
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:battlebox complete! 
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Jun 20, 2016 01:34
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I've got some W&NS7s and they're super nice, definetly improved my work over the GW standard brushes I was using before. I tend to be negligent in caring for my brushes though so I recently bought a whole bunch of different brush types from Dick Blick in an attempt to find something that performed well but was cheap enough to not worry about maintaining. Some of them were pretty good. If i have time tonight I'll take some pics and write up some reviews.
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Jun 24, 2016 18:32
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PantsOptional posted:I picked up some Orks for a side project, and I was hoping to get a quick opinion poll going: is it better to use a black, brown, or green ink on Ork flesh? They'll be Deathskulls if that helps. Try blue ink/wash over a yellow base. Depending on the yellow you use you can get beautifully shaded greens ranging from olive to emerald to deep forest.
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Jul 9, 2016 17:29
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SRM posted:I didn't feel like busting out my power drill because it's the only thing with a bore large enough for a multimelta. I recently got one of these things. It's been great for drilling bigger holes in plastic for magnets and such.
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Oct 12, 2017 23:08
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:
I really love the white guns for some reason.
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Oct 15, 2017 05:12
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Some work in progress pics of my faux-Praetorian Guard They're based on this pic I found online. I'm using standard Cadian bodies Victoria Miniatures male and female pith helmet heads.  My First squad, I have to figure out how I want to base them.  This guy turned out really well.  My first tank, still needs a bunch of detail work. 
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Oct 15, 2017 15:35
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Dr. Gargunza posted:
Thanks. Those muttonchops are just Reaper Golden Blonde base with Army Painter Soft Tone wash.
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Oct 15, 2017 17:39
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Of course, why are we even talking about airbrushing glue, I've seen some of those videos... Thanks!
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When doing bases, is it best to apply static grass or foliage before or after you seal/varnish?
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Oct 21, 2017 15:21
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Did somebody say it was time to post some orks?            Pictures are kinda crap, I gotta get a better setup. My go to move on orks is to basecoat in some form of yellow and then wash their skin green (for bright) or blue (for dark), results in some really great skintones, depending on the exact combination of yellow and wash from olive green to bright radioactive green.
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Oct 24, 2017 15:38
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Ohthehugemanatee posted:This is more of a modeling question but I can't think of where else to post it. I am trying to put together some cheap siege engines from scrap. There are tons of resources online about building everything from furniture to dungeons out of foam core and dollar store beads but I can find very little about hacking together a cannon or a catapult or something like that. In particular I'm trying to build something that would go well with some Reaper bones goblins and some Reaper bones dwarves, so anything on the spectrum from finely metal worked cannons to primeval catapults is cool. Scratch building guns and cannons is really easy to do with poly-styrene tubes. You can get them in packages of different sizes that fit inside each other, cut them to different lengths to make barrels, chambers breaches etc.
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Oct 25, 2017 02:51
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My Tiny Space Limeys now have their own tiny space Land Rovers.     I dig the Taurox kit, but hate the stupid little tank tracks so I got some 6x6 wheel conversion kits off ebay, they're not perfect but I think they look pretty cool. They ride a bit high, but I think that makes them look like modern infantry vehicles.
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Nov 2, 2017 03:22
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Guy Goodbody posted:
Also the golden age of American muscle cars, I might need to make a hemi-powered Gundam in Plum Crazy Purple.
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Nov 4, 2017 14:51
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Groetgaffel posted:The new WarhammerTV guy, as seen in the new Tyranid Warrior tutorial, is pretty good to listen to as well. Not quite Duncan, but pretty pleasant anyway. Is Saint Duncan not doing videos anymore?
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Nov 13, 2017 15:31
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Vermintide posted:I pretty much strictly use Vallejo brush on surface primer with all my minis, including Bones, and have had no issues with it getting tacky or not sticking to the surface. I don't trust that 'don't need to prime' thing one bit. Same here, vellejo brush on has always worked for me. I haven't tried spraying it on bones since I got an airbrush. Also mold lines on bones are a real son of a bitch, I've mostly given up and just accepted that most bones are only suitable for tabletop play and not for display pieces.
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Nov 17, 2017 15:16
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Finished a test model for my bigly space marine chapter, just in time for my Shapeways custom shoulder emblems to show up in the mail.  After trying half a dozen different purple paint and wash combos i finally ended up using GW Xereus Purple basecoat with Druchii Violet shade as someone else suggested. Now just to get to work on the rest of them.
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Nov 25, 2017 03:26
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Quidthulhu posted:What's the best way to strip paint completely from Citadel minis? I'm usually one to just live with my fuckups but I accidentally primed a set of Pox Walkers in Grey instead of White, and following Duncan's guide using mostly shades instead of paint they're way too dark. Hilighting the faces are getting a little black-face-y, so I want to start these ones over. Avenging Dentist posted:I've heard that the new Simple Green formulation is bad for stripping paint and that you want LA's Totally Awesome now. Couple years ago I tried Simple Green and LAs Totally Awesome on some eBay rescue tanks and they both left most the paint on after weeks of soaking. Then I found Dawn Power Dissolver. This stuff is like magic. It's a commercial kitchen degreaser and it takes off paint in minutes, doesn't hurt plastic, is safe for your kitchen sink, and not even that harsh on your skin. It's a gel spray so you don't need much, and you don't have to soak, you spray it onto a mini, wait 30 minutes and then brush it a little with a toothbrush and at least 90% of the paint just falls off. Since the gel is thick and stick, you can even use it to strip parts of a model. It's hard to find in stores (Walmart used to sell tiny purple bottles of it) but you can get it from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Procter-Gamb...power+dissolver
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Nov 28, 2017 07:21
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OptimusWang posted:Speaking of tools, is there a goon-recommended way of chopping stuff up for conversions? I think I heard you can use a jeweler’s saw, but I have no idea if they’re any good or if some are better than others. I get a lot of use from my xacto razor saw and miter. https://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X75320...7GARE7FHG3BGRVE
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Dec 8, 2017 07:32
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Genghis Cohen posted:Does anyone have a video guide on basic basing techniques? I have always used the same method for my 40k armies: thinned pva glue on the base, stick in tub of mixed grain sand, shake off, then clear away excess once it's dried. I can't help feel but that I'm missing something (it's been a year or two since I last tried this) because it's just not going smoothly. Bits of sand clump up, come off easily, generally look a bit weak. Should I apply another layer of thinner pva glue to hold it all down? I use that technique for my orks still. Here's what I do: -slather the base with unthinned PVA. -dip in my basing material. -tap off the excess -wait for the PVA to fully dry -brush on a heavy coat of thinned down PVA to seal it in place -prime, base coat, wash and dry brush Next time I paint some new orks I may experiment with technical paints to see if I can get a close enough effect to keep them looking consistent.
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Dec 16, 2017 16:54
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Red_Fred posted:Can anyone recommend some good mini brands/lines for D&D 5e? I want to pick up some unpainted minis for our games to contribute but I'm struggling to choose. Ideally they would be good value but high quality plastic and of course unpainted. Reaper Bones are pretty much made for what you're asking. They have everything you need for DnD and they're cheap.
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Dec 22, 2017 04:09
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I've got the 105 and it's great, easy to care for and does a good job of laying down basecoats and primer. If I was going to get a detail airbrush, should I get the Sotor 2020 or the Renegade Krome?
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Jan 4, 2018 19:37
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glitchkrieg posted:Has anybody here got experience with Minitaire Ghost Tints or candy coating? I also had very different results between magenta and purple. the magenta worked great (but the color wasn't what I wanted) and the purple came out runny in spots and too thick in others.
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Jan 9, 2018 16:09
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After leaving some ebay rescue russes that were primed with roofing tar in LA Totally Awesome for a month to no results I switched to Dawn Power Dissolver and the poo poo came of in sheets after 20-30 minutes.
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Jan 11, 2018 16:00
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Shadin posted:Has anyone used the Forgeworld clear paints? Angron Red and Calth Blue sure look mighty tempting for finally doing something about my Betrayal at Calth boxset. Just wondering how they are and if they should go over a silver metallic or if a gold or copper/bronze would look better. I haven't used the forgeworld clears but I have use the Tamaya and Minitair clears and clear red over bright gold gives you a beautiful rich metalic red. Clear blue I've only tried with different silvers.
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Jan 12, 2018 20:33
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I've got one of these things: https://www.amazon.com/ArtBin-Satchel-Container-BottleTrays-6959AB/dp/B00DV90CBO It's not as space efficient as a proper sized plano box, but the trays can be removed and stood up for easy access. It's also a little taller than standard mini paint dropper bottles, so they don't stay very secure if you stand the case up on end. I have yet to find a perfect option that's not super expensive, or only available with full paint sets.
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Jan 19, 2018 17:45
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A friend of mine wants to get some DnD minis painted to a really high standard, and he's willing to pay an artist to do so. Anyone here available for commissions or have a recommendation for good ones?
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Jan 20, 2018 05:51
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In the US, Dick Blick is only slightly more expensive than Amazon for brushes, while having a huge selection and an excellent refund policy if you get a brush messed up in transit. They also have regular sales that put them below Amazon prices. They also have a huge range of mid (student) and low (scholastic) grade brushes, for all your less delicate needs.
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Jan 28, 2018 04:25
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I attended two airbrush classes at LVO today, basically I learned that I've been doing everything wrong and paying too much money for it all. Just some of the things I learned: As you thin your paints more, lower your air pressure to compensate. Painting over black primer gives you more value range to work with vs painting over white. Airbrush thinner and flow improver do different things, and thinner is just water+alcohol which is way cheaper to mix yourself than buy pre mixed. If you're spraying with the trigger pulled all the way back, your paint is too thick. GW glazes do amazing things when run through an airbrush.
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Jan 28, 2018 05:56
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Partial Octopus posted:Please elaborate! Bulbasaur explained it pretty well. What the instructor did was prime a space marine black, hit it with a yellow base coat from the side, then a white highlight from the top, then sprayed the whole thing with GW red glaze(bloodletter?) and it turned into the most vibrant red with the flattest finish, perfectly highlighted and shadowed. I've brushed on washes to shade and modulate colors, but didn't know you could use the airbrush to only modulate color.
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Jan 30, 2018 01:01
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I run unthinned Liquitex Matte Varnish through my airbrush. It hasn't really clogged details but it definitely stops up the airbrush. What would you guys thin it with? Is there any difference between matte varnish and matte medium? My bottle of liquitex matte medium that I've been using as a sealer says it can be mixed with 25% water.
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Feb 8, 2018 06:44
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The Moon Monster posted:It may well be his personal preference to use a dry palette, but it is his job to sell you GW stuff so them not making a wet palette is probably the ultimate reason. And since the margins on paint are so high, they probably never will.
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Feb 15, 2018 07:05
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The One-Two Punch posted:Against my better judgement I have agreed to paint some Reaper Bones orcs. Anyone have suggestions? I’ve read horror stories about the way it sheds primer and paint. Some spray primers don't react well to the plastic. As I recall Army Painter spray worked fine, but you should check the bones thread for more details on which are good for that route. I've never had problems priming bones with villejo brush on primer.
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Feb 17, 2018 10:13
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Yeast posted:This will make your dry tip worse. Flow improver is not intended to be used to thin paints. It's intended to be used along with thinner. Thinner slightly breaks down the medium to lower viscosity but it's also a drying accelerant, so you want to compensate with a little bit of flow improver (like a drop or two at the most). Using too much flow improver is going to leave your paint wet after it hits the surface of your model, what you want is for the paint to dry as soon as it hits the surface. Also both these things are expensive. A mix of 90% distilled water and 10% isopropyl alcohol is a perfect acrylic paint thinner for 10% the price. Also proper air pressure is essential, but there is no specific PSI you can set at, it is directly relative to your paint consistency. Instead thin your paint and then spray on a piece of paper or cardboard: If the paint is spattering and inconsistent then increase your pressure.  if the paint is wet and "spidering" then decrease your pressure.  It takes some practice, but the important thing is to find a thinness of paint and air pressure combination that works for you and then consistently thin your paints to that degree. If you're still getting dry tip with properly thinned paint and a little flow improver, make sure you're cleaning your needle really well, especially after spraying any sort of primer (primer binds to paint). You can also every minute or two of painting, point your brush straight down (ideally at a surface you don't mind spraying) and give it a full trigger pulse of paint, that will help dislodge anything in the tip.
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Mar 8, 2018 16:19
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Bad Munki posted:I’ve been wanting to paint this dude for a while so tonight I finally decided to just knock him out. I’m trying to focus more on just getting guys done than making them perfect, I think that’s been blocking me from even bothering to paint for a while, so the goal was just “get it done.” Even so, I’m pretty happy with how he turned out. This is one of my all time favorite minis to paint, there's so much character and there's so much you can do with simple techniques to make him look great.
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Mar 11, 2018 06:51
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R0ckfish posted:This is tangentially related, but what is your preference for cleaning your airbrush? I have been using off the self airbrush cleaner but I am nearly out and would be interested to hear if there are 'better' alternatives before I buy any more. The same isopropyl alcohol I mix with water to make thinner. Get yourself some of these things: Squeeze Bottle Fill one with pure water (filtered is ok, distilled is better), one with isopropyl alcohol (91% is best but 70% will do) and one with a mix of 9:1 water/alcohol. Use the mix for thinning your paint, use the water for flushing the paint out of your airbrush when changing colors and the alcohol to clean it after use. Don't use a stiff brush or one of those reamers that they sell for cleaning your brush, those will damage the inside of your brush and cause premature wear. Instead use a Qtip or a Micro applicator brush. I learned all this from CK studios intro Airbrushing class at LVO this year. He recently made a video demoing a lot of it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6ccZA1XXxE Unfortunately some of it's hard to see in the video.
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Mar 11, 2018 18:55
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Duct Tape posted:Crossposting a question from the 40k thread, but does anyone know where to bulk order 3/32" x 1/16" magnets? I usually buy from K&J Magnetics, but they don't seem to carry that specific size. https://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=1 Edit: They have 1/10 x 1/16 which is nearly the same size. $0.09 each. https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DH11 Bucnasti fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Mar 20, 2018 |
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Mar 20, 2018 15:08
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The Moon Monster posted:I'd suggest just buying a basic set of the colors you learned in Kindergarten and branching out from there as your needs require. If you start out with a set of 100 paints it might be years before you even open half of them. You also might not stick with the hobby and never end up using them. Yeah this is the best advice. VGC, VMC, Citadel, P3, Reaper... I've used them all (often on a single model), and although they each have slightly different characteristics, they will all get your job done. I'd say go with the brand that you have the best access to the most colors you're interested in using, and then if there are colors from other ranges you need just pick them up singley.
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Apr 4, 2018 00:20
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Sydney Bottocks posted:There was a video on YouTube some years back, I think it was by AGP Productions. The guy in the video went over all the basic colors a beginner might need to get started painting (and mixing said colors instead of having to run out and buy every different shade or highlight color on top of the basics). Mixing your own colors is also good advice that doesn't get shared often. Especially if you're painting RPG figs and don't need to keep things consistent across an army. For the longest time I got along fine with just a few colors (primaries + black, white, brown and metallics) and mixed all my tones (including washes) on my palette. It wasn't until I started painting 40k figures that I started buying specific tones.
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Apr 4, 2018 05:50
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