Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

BULBASAUR posted:

You can thin it with water. You don't need to thin a varnish, but I usually do because I am paranoid about thin layers (~4:1 varnish:water)

If you do this, make sure it's distilled water. Not tap. Not spring. Not Peru.

# ¿ Mar 12, 2015 11:54

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# ¿ Apr 30, 2024 02:26

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

It looks, well, purple. I dig it though. I would not recommend gloss. It will look like it�s coated in wax instead. Shiny black is a bitch and a half. Personally I would use tight gray highlighting up to dots of pure white kind of like you�re paining a lens, but on big panels like that, man, you�d have to be really good.

I have seen very dark blue used for simulating deep gloss black, but never tried it myself.

E: here�s what I was getting at. https://garethnicholasblog.wordpress.com/2016/10/04/painting-tutorial-part-2-shiny-armour/

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Oct 18, 2018

# ¿ Oct 18, 2018 00:35

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Chance II posted:

Well poo poo, I think thats a little beyond me but thanks for the link. Maybe I can experiment on something else till I get a handle on it.

Yeah it�s tough to get down. But hey I do like the look so personally I�d just build up the purple highlights and call it good.

# ¿ Oct 18, 2018 00:46

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

S.J. posted:

I'm not talking about chipping, I'm talking about it not adhering to the model when it was initially sprayed.

GW Brand, not AP. I'm not a fan of AP's color sprays from what I've used, they have an oddly waxy finish and they don't seem to match their paint pots.

You gotta wash metal minis before paining. Sometimes there�s still mold release agent on them and that will keep the paint from sticking.

# ¿ Oct 26, 2018 10:54

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Whatever it is, you should always wash your metal (and resin) models.

# ¿ Oct 27, 2018 13:01

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Zuul the Cat posted:

Getting back into the swing of things now that I've finished the campaign for Red Dead Redemption.

Painted up some of the laser arm on my Preceptor. Touched up the photo a bit cause of the low light.

The rest of the arm is so tight ... can you clean up the stripes?

# ¿ Nov 29, 2018 19:37

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Zuul the Cat posted:

Yeah, i'm not done with it yet I still need to go through and do the battery casings, brass parts and some other stuff. I'll definitely clean up the lines to make them just a bit sharper.

Ah! Okay cool then.

# ¿ Nov 30, 2018 00:34

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Ellaybee posted:

So, having taken a few decades off painting minis, I�m picking it back up again and enjoying the hobby again. I do have a few questions though that I may bring here, starting with this one: I�ve watched maybe a hundred videos about wet palettes and picked up one of Masterson�s and replaced the included paper with plain old Reynolds parchment paper.

I must be doing something wrong (or have too-lofty expectations), because I�m not having the success keeping paints the same consistency day-to-day. I have the sponge fully saturated, heavy enough that if I apply pressure water will pool in the depression but not so much so that water sits on the surface. If I put enough paint down that I can still measure a dimension of height to each color (maybe 1mm or so deep), the paint will next time be much thinner and often separate in color. If I spread the paint out to mix it/make a gradient/whatever, it will be tacky if not altogether dry the next day.

I�ve tried using the cover, not using the cover, using the cover without completely covering the palette, etc, and figure I�m either an idiot (quite possible) or I�m missing something simple. Any advice to help me unlock the arcane mysteries of the wet palette?

I think you have too high of expectations. Wet palette should keep your paints good for long painting sessions, not overnight. Just mix custom paint blends in empty pots if you�re going to do that.

# ¿ Dec 6, 2018 23:41

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Avenging Dentist posted:

I'm not sure how much it helps, or if you found this already, but I came across this, which is supposed to be on Macragge? I guess it's one of the Horus Heresy books, but I'm scraping the bottom of the barrel with the 40k stuff I remember:

The pillars have some symbols that you could use as a basis? Zoomed out, it looks like one of them is a gauntlet with an up arrow cut out of it, but if you look closely it's actually a full Space Marine standing around. In any case, the shield and laurel wreath could work.

What the gently caress is happening on that cover? :wtc:

# ¿ Dec 10, 2018 02:16

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Furism posted:

Man, that's a pretty good discount on that can.

Dude. You can�t just randomly compliment somebody�s can.

# ¿ Dec 13, 2018 00:37

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Aniodia posted:

First, white is straight dildos to paint, don't let anyone ever tell you otherwise. However, what you've got now isn't terrible, but as you probably thought, it is a little thicker than it should be. Honestly, I've used both Ceramite White and White Scar, and I'd recommend Ceramite White when doing any sort of white anything (armor, robes, whatever). Yes, it's technically a "base" paint, but that just means you can thin it way more than "layer" paints and still have a decent amount of pigment, and white is definitely a color you want to have as thin and smooth as possible. You'd actually be surprised how thin you can go with the Ceramite and still have it be usable. I'll also recommend starting with an off-white (Celestra Grey, Rakarth Flesh, maybe Ionrach Skin?), depending upon the rest of your color scheme, and go up to white, rather than try and start right from white and shade down.

There's also a little bit of color bleeding here and there; the pauldron trim, kneepad, left hand, gun body under the plasma coil, and gun stock where it hits the pauldron all have a little bit of another color on them that they shouldn't. All in all, a good start, you just need to tighten up your paint placement and thin your paint a little more, but that's something you'll get a feel for as you paint more.

If you're a visual learner, I'd not only recommend Duncan's videos on Warhammer TV, but also Sorastro's various game painting guides. While Duncan is obviously geared towards GW games, Sorastro also has some decent videos as well, and he tends to use GW colors without trying to shill at you.

In other news, more mini 'hams.

Reworked the shield rune to stand out a bit better.

A hero/command unit, with Swordmasters of Hoeth.

Close-up of the shield freehand. Hands still suck to paint.

Second Swordmasters hero/command unit.

Better shot of shield freehand.

A full unit of Swordmasters of Hoeth.

Focus on the command stand, with reworked freehand on the shield and banner.

And the rank-and-file Swordmasters.

Working on some Shadow Warriors right now, then maybe bang out another hero or two while I start on the Dragon Rider.

Are you using a camera from 1998? If not you might want to consider more light.

# ¿ Dec 21, 2018 19:01

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Eh just get some plastic sheeting, cut out a shape, heat it up with a hair dryer and bend it so it looks like it�s waving and save yourself $17 + shipping

# ¿ Dec 29, 2018 01:59

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Cat Face Joe posted:

Some drying retarder will help with that.

Dude. It�s 2019. We don�t say things like that anymore.

# ¿ Jan 9, 2019 23:27

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

MasterSlowPoke posted:

You can upload from the app?

Hey it works!

Wait what? Really? You mean I�ve been using this app for like 6 goddamn years and never knew that?

E: holy living gently caress

# ¿ Jan 20, 2019 14:50

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Count_Brass posted:

Working on a Gravis Captain today, almost there! Had a nightmare painting the cloak, I just couldn't get it right but sod painting it a fourth time.

Man, that black is tight.

# ¿ Jan 20, 2019 20:00

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Sab669 posted:

Are diamond-dust files too strong for plastics? If so, what do you guys recommend instead?

Depends. What are you trying to do exactly?

# ¿ Jan 21, 2019 23:50

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Sab669 posted:

Just filing down where my flush cutters couldn't get a clean cut. Trying to step up my assembling /model prep game this year.

Just picked up the GW mold line tool and it's nice. Pretty expensive and I'm sure a hobby knife would've been fine but I like not having to worry about cutting myself Has a great weight to it.

Yeah that world work, but I prefer an exacto and using the flat of the blade to scrape away plastic. Files make the plastic rough, which is actually okay if you�re going to glue it (not about more surface - just that it won�t be seen. Plastic glue literally melts the plastic together so surface area doesn�t matter as much as long as there�s contact).

But yeah, you�ll lose blood doing it that way. Deffo. You�ll also ruin the blade so get extra or use an older blade.

I think I made a video at one point. Maybe I can find it.

Found it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahyiWLwjYk0

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Jan 22, 2019

# ¿ Jan 22, 2019 00:46

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

richyp posted:

It's a good colour. I got my smartphone settings sorted out and got a better picture, so you can see Baharroth Blue and the other 7 of the edge colours in their true pastel glory.

That�s .... loving radical. Yeah, that�s the proper adjective.

# ¿ Jan 25, 2019 05:02

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

2019 BEAST MODE posted:

How humid is too humid to use spray can primer outside?

Anything over 70%?? Although I�m sure there�s some spectrum that goes JUST TAKES LONGER TO DRY > ACTIVELY GETS IN TNE WAY OF SPRAY DROPLETS

As long as you have a decently large area in the house that small children and pets won�t be around, you don�t breathe the fumes while you�re spraying and you put a little fan up, I�ve not found it to be a problem. I think people freak out a little too much about it. Now if you�ll excuse me I have to get back in my iron lung.

# ¿ Feb 1, 2019 00:04

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:

Is air brush painting near a window + table fan + mask, sufficient to ensure lung protection?

Genuinely asking.

Also, do pot paints create fumes that are harmful or is it just lint that is airborne?

What�s harmful, paints and primers or just primers?

I�d love to read science literature on best practices. Joking aside, dying early and painfully because of an easily prevented component of my hobby... well that�s no good my friends.

Yeah that�d be fine. If you want to go the extra mile get a paint booth with a fan and vent it out the window.

It�s not the paint that�s toxic it�s the propellant. If you�re using an airbrush the it�s also tiny vaporized paint flecks. Any solid matter in your lungs isn�t great, even flour and wheat dust etc. But you inhale crap all day long, so as long as you aren�t huffing it and give yourself replenishing fresh air and/or a mask you should be fine.

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Feb 2, 2019

# ¿ Feb 2, 2019 21:59

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Brinty posted:

I hope you have deep pockets.

One can will last a verrrry long time if you paint at the speed of most people. You could easily do an army with a can.

# ¿ Feb 5, 2019 22:47

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Is Army Painter really that bad? My citadel paints are all old and crappy and I want to start painting again, so my wife got me the AP starter box. It looks nice... :ohdear:

# ¿ Feb 8, 2019 22:14

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Sydney Bottocks posted:

I corrected a mistake in my earlier post, plastic cement is what I was referring to. I don't believe plastic cement melts PVC.

Not the stuff we use for hobbies, no, but there is PVC cement. It�s mainly used in plumbing.

# ¿ Feb 15, 2019 12:08

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# ¿ Apr 30, 2024 02:26

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Shrecknet posted:

OK I'm gonna try zenithal priming today on my Ant-Man for MCP

My problem is I am.maybe bad at priming? I don't really have a feel for how much/little primer I need, I think maybe I get too close and it's all gloppy and now all the little detail bits are lost under a sea of primer?

but if it's too little there isn't enough to cover and now my paint doesn't stick?

what's a good tutorial for how to spray paint prime for absolute beginners?

Quick advice - don�t start spraying primer directly at the model. Start off to one side 5 or so inches to the right (or left - I�m not your dad) and bring the spray across the mini in an even motion and keep spraying until it�s the same distance away on the opposite side before stopping. In general I hold the primer 6-8 inches away from the mini, but I can�t give you an exact number, because it depends on the primer, the temperature, the humidity, and all sorts of poo poo. I recommend trying to prime poo poo you don�t care about like sprues, terrain, or minis you�ll never field, before priming what you care about.

General rule is if you�re too far away it will dry in the air and make the surface rough and dusty. Too close and it will pool and form drips.

Like most paints, a few thinner layers are better than having it be too thick.

Oh, I should mention - if the primer pools, let it dry before wringing your hands. Good primer will shrink to the surface even if it�s pooled a little.

# ¿ May 5, 2022 17:40

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body