Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Throbbing blob posted:

Just reposting old poo poo? Don't mind if I do!

What is your DKoK blue recipe? I was trying for this color on my Epic DKoK, but wound up with more of a denim color. It doesn't look terrible, but I'm not 100% satisfied with it.

# ¿ Mar 12, 2015 12:49

Adbot: ADBOT LOVES YOU

# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 08:02

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Indolent Bastard posted:

It will make super glue crumble though.

Best. Side effect. Ever.

# ¿ Mar 13, 2015 14:14

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

On a somewhat model-y note, has anyone seen plans or good references for any of the buildings in Dawn of War? I want to build some but I don't have any good images.

# ¿ Mar 13, 2015 20:51

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Slimnoid posted:

You might be able to find some papercraft versions out there. I think I remember seeing some a while back. Barring that, maybe you can find some sort of 3-D model viewing program? Not sure how that works.

Sadly, I've never found the buildings, just vehicles. And I have no clue how to pull models from games either - I think you can only pull the skins, and not the model. I may be wrong though... I guess I'll have to try to get some screenshots and extrapolate from there.

# ¿ Mar 13, 2015 21:17

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

nesbit37 posted:

A friend of mine is using those trays combined with a soft case for his models. I think I may switch over as well - my foam trays work well for Epic (6mm) but my 10mm Warmaster stuff is just too heavy for the trays to properly support. Those hard trays would work well - it's too bad they aren't about an inch shorter, though. All of my cases are Sabol-sized and only fit up to 13" wide.

# ¿ Mar 17, 2015 12:37

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

SRM posted:

I'd only bother with Army Painter if you're basing an army around one of their colors. I used their Crystal Blue for my Ultras, but I've used Krylon black and white primer for everything else I've ever painted.

Agreed. Also, their primer does not stand up to any sort of handling without chipping. Whatever they do to Krylon (I just use the regular stuff, not the primer) gives it a much better bond to the model. Krylon will take abuse, while the AP stuff barely holds up to game handling. In the future, if I'm doing a large army, I'm just going to use my airbrush - I can go over the Krylon and have the added benefit of ensuring I get a good color match.

nesbit37 posted:

If your magnetizing and don't care about one of the short edges not having a side wall you could just cut off an inch of the tray with a utility knife or dremel to get them to fit. They're cheap enough it would be worth trying at least.

Didn't think of that - I'll take a look at that option.

# ¿ Mar 17, 2015 21:25

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Skarsnik posted:

Sevatar incoming:

Possible the most model ever. Pure distilled grimdark.

Awesome. I picked one up at the FW booth at Adepticon this year - I don't think I can do it the justice you have, but hopefully it will be fun. Any problems with assembly?

# ¿ Mar 24, 2015 20:47

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

I think part of the problem is that there is nothing to tie your colors together. I think you should give the green a shot on the carapace and see how it looks.

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 10:56 on Mar 27, 2015

# ¿ Mar 27, 2015 10:53

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Anybody need some Flames of War paint sets? I've got two that I don't need - Soviet and Polish - both brand new, factory sealed. I'll let them go for $15 each plus shipping (I'm in the US.) PM or shoot me an email at portablezombie at gmail.

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Mar 27, 2015

# ¿ Mar 27, 2015 13:38

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Hollismason posted:

Is it okay to talk about casting in the thread or not, because I've been trying to downsize some specific models and am having no success getting anywhere with it.

Casting is ok, recasting, not so much. What do you mean "downsize?" As in reduce the scale?

Big Willy Style posted:

E: boon your army us sick but please reposition your wraithknight so it isn't leaning back

(It really is a great paint job.)

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Mar 29, 2015

# ¿ Mar 29, 2015 14:09

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

big_g posted:

I found time this weekend to panel line and then add some simple weathering to the corsair. This is all still super gloss beware.

Going to work on canopy, prop and details next then matt everything down. Pic dump incoming!

What do you think? I'm fairly happy with how it's turning out.

Dayummm. That is really sweet, man.

Hollismason posted:

Basically I'm trying to down size a scarab model by like 50% to 75% or more I'm not trying to sell it or anything else I'm doing it for a diorama because I want to try and have a big modeling project for the next few months to work on and relax , I want see how far down and how small I can make it with recasting because I want tiny scarabs and my sculpting skills are not really that great. I mean I cna sort of sculpt them myself but they really don't come out how I want. I'd also though of possibly 3D printing smaller tiny models but that's a whole nother thing.

As far as I know, there is no way to shrink a model/mold down like that (unless you are a supervillian and have a shrink ray.) Your best bet is to sculpt one and cast that.

Terminator question: I'm thinking about taking the DV DA Terminators and modding them to have lightning claws and Thunder Hammers/Storm Shields for use in Space Hulk. Looking at the DA Terminator box set on GW's site though, it appears there is only one Thunder Hammer and one set of Lightning Claws in there. Is that correct, or is GW just not showing all of the sprues in the box?

# ¿ Mar 30, 2015 01:43

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

WINNERSH TRIANGLE posted:

It does exist, it's called HydroShrink/Span, or contracting/expanding hydromorph. Basically it's a resin-y stuff that contracts with curing, or expands when you so it in water. It's quite expensive - you can see here - http://www.mindsetsonline.co.uk/catalogue/ProductList/casting-modelling-materials?catalogueLevelItemId=85d98a96-c384-4148-904c-da9ac3bbfbbf - but you might be able to find it cheaper from a wholesaler.

I've never used it for modelling - from what understand there's a lot of faffing about with prototyping - but there's a pretty decent tutorial here: http://www.ironcowprod.com/resizing-parts-using-hydrospan/.

That is the coolest thing I have ever seen, Beavis. Too bad the shrinkage isn't more accurate - "up to" 60% doesn't make it too useful when you need to be certain of scale.

# ¿ Mar 30, 2015 14:42

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

nesbit37 posted:

Berzerkermonkey and anyone else who casts, I've been doing some 10mm cavalry units with resin and they have been giving me problems. I am guessing it is because of air getting trapped since I pour until resin is coming out of the air vents and the pouring hole and then manually vibrate the molds. Either part of the horse head or main body and rider legs are not casting. I am guessing a pressure pot would fix, or at least help this assuming I didn't just put air vents on the wrong spot (going over the banner/spear and touching the horse's nose). I know a vacuum pot would be better but I don't think the 2 pumps I have can go in reverse.

I have this pump that I use for airbrushing, and another one that is similar but a little more powerful and it doesn't auto turn off or anything. Should these be good enough, and any pressure pot or other recommendations?

I'm assuming you're casting with the legs in the air (i.e. the horse is upside down?) If not, that might be an issue as well - you're trying to force the resin through the body then into into a tiny area and the air can't escape. Also, how are you pouring your resin? I use a syringe to force mine into the mold - gravity can't push trapped air out efficiently.

If you are casting the model upside down, then yeah, it sounds like you could probably resolve this with a pressure pot. I highly recommend the paint tank from Harbor Freight - it's cheap and will do exactly what you need it to. As for a compressor, your airbrush compressor isn't going to move enough air or have the proper fittings to connect to the pot. Plus, you don't want to wear it out on casting. I'd recommend a real compressor with a tank from Home Depot or Harbor Freight.

Don't worry about vacuum for resin - you want that for your mold rubber.

# ¿ Mar 31, 2015 15:54

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Slimnoid posted:

Check craigslists, swap meets/flea markets, and tag sales. You might get lucky and find a used paint pot or compressor for cheap.

Note that you'll have to modify the paint pot in order to make it air-tight, which doesn't cost much. A back-up safety valve is also a good idea, because if the first one fails you'll have no way to diffuse what is essentially a bomb. I've found that the rubber seal that particular paint pot has does a poor job of keeping air in and will slowly leak it out, so you might want to fix that too--something I don't know how to fix, unfortunately (maybe someone else knows?)

Oh yeah, I forgot about the modding of the can - it's been a long time since I set mine up. Really, all you have to do is put a fitting on. I'll get a photo of mine up if I remember.

As for the seal, run a thin layer of vaseline along it every once in a while.

# ¿ Mar 31, 2015 18:19

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

GaistHeidegger posted:

I've got a solid hankering for finally getting a Vallejo Air set to save a lot of grief.

You're better off getting the VMC/VGC colors you need and thinning them properly. With Air, you're essentially paying twice as much for your paints, since you're paying for the thinner too.

# ¿ Mar 31, 2015 19:34

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Slimnoid posted:

I think the seal itself might not be good in general, but I'll try the vaseline once I get around to doing casting again. I haven't touched it in well over a year, but I'm considering picking up some more resin soon.

I've got a minor leak somewhere, but I haven't been able to pinpoint it - my compressor will cycle back on after about 20 minutes or so, so something is definitely leaking. I did have to hold the quick release pin in place with some rubber bands, as it was a constant source of leaks - I'd seal it in place, but I want to have a relatively weak point of failure just in case.

GaistHeidegger posted:

Definitely helpful to hear--and a little alarming RE: the psi and back-spray; I'd been working off 25 - 30 psi with my compressor, I'll try tuning it down and seeing if that doesn't also help with the prior issues I was having too. I do wish I'd gotten a compressor with a tank just so the thing wasn't refilling itself constantly, but it's got a smart-off and so forth at least. I'll get some duct tubing and see about getting that set up also. Thanks much!

Yeah, I bought a new compressor setup after I got sick of my Badger constantly cycling on and off. The new one has a tank and is considerably quieter as well. Regarding the PSI, most miniatures airbrushers recommend painting at around 15 PSI, so you should probably shoot for that. My new compressor has a regulator, so I'll definitely be turning mine down - I've got a shitload of Steel Legion to paint and I want to do it right the first time. I also have one of those spray booths you mentioned earlier - I'm hoping it works, since in the past, I always painted sans filtration.

# ¿ Mar 31, 2015 20:23

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Got a question about model building and heavy weathering: I've got some Steel Legion that I'm finally going to paint and I want to heavily weather the Chimeras (including salt weathering.) I also want to add some stowage, panniers, etc. Should I go ahead and put all that stuff on before painting, or should I wait until after? I can see pros and cons to both, but I've never done any weathering before, and I'd like some input from people who've actually done it before I jump in.

# ¿ Apr 3, 2015 00:17

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Signal posted:

on weathering, does anyone have any good tutorials on how to make it look good on 6mm models? I've been having some trouble with how to make them look used, while still retaining the contrast you need at such a small scale.

It's tough, but you can do it. You'll have to exaggerate everything - "normal" weathering isn't going to show up at that scale. If you look at my blitz brigade (second pic down,) I did mine by painting a base silver color, then stippling/sponging on the red. It's backward of how you'd do it on a larger scale model, but I found it worked a little better. Either way you do it, you're going to want to sponge/stipple your paint. Then I applied a black ink wash over everything and it blended everything together.

On my lighter colored Krieg, I'm going to sponge on Charadon Granite "chips" to give a high-contrast weathering look. Also, if you do any sort of overpainting (stripes, unit markings, etc) make sure you stipple those with your base color so it looks like everything is affected. Check out the second pic down of the Macharius to see what I'm talking about.

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Apr 3, 2015

# ¿ Apr 3, 2015 00:47

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Bavius posted:

Just saw this product up on kickstarter for cleaning up 3d printed objects. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1654851065/retouch3d-a-brand-new-way-to-finish-3d-prints/comments

Basically a sodering iron with adjustable heat and different heads. Seems like something that might work really well for cleaning up models - from removing thick gates on resin models to removing flash and even removing defects. Any one else think it might be a cool investment?

I honestly didn't see anything in their video that couldn't be accomplished with an Exacto or sandpaper/sanding files. Yeah, removing that huge support would be a pain in the rear end with a set of nippers, but personally, $179 seems a bit high for what it is.

# ¿ Apr 4, 2015 13:22

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Chill la Chill posted:

Thanks for the link. I looked at a similar one that I might get. At least the zipper enclosure is kinda like my current brush case. Give the brushes to my little cousins.

You do know this is probably like 14-16 inches long right? Those are full-sized brushes.

Chill la Chill posted:

Hi guys, I'm in need of one of these cuz I'm getting a couple new brushes. Do any of you know what it's called? Apparently painting case isn't the name for these things.

It's a bracelet gift box. And this is a brilliant idea - I've been looking for something to transport brushes without damaging them.

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Apr 6, 2015

# ¿ Apr 6, 2015 15:23

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Anybody have any ideas for replacement Chimera treads? I've got the version 1.0 rubber treads, which I've heard were a real bear to put on. I've got seven Chimeras, so I don't want to create any more frustration than I need to.

# ¿ Apr 7, 2015 16:42

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Does anyone have any tips about testing color schemes on vehicles without actually painting the vehicle? I'm going to do the Steel Legion that I've had sitting in a box for over a decade, and I want to test out a color scheme for the vehicles. While I like the standard SL scheme of Rotting Flesh/Black striping, I've never thought it fit the aesthetic of the SL Khaki trenchcoats. I think I want to do a color more traditionally associated with Tallarn.

Problem is, I've only got six Chimeras and none to spare in a color test. They aren't small, and I really don't want to use one and try to go back and strip it later (I don't have anything large enough to soak it in.) In addition, I want to do some hairspray chipping, so I'm afraid if I do that and don't like the color, I'll have uneven spots when I overpaint.

What do I do? :ohdear:

# ¿ Apr 8, 2015 18:29

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Big Willy Style posted:

Get a cereal box corner, glue some squares of cereal cardboard on it to simulate armour panels and glue some thinly cut rod strips for rivets and then practice.

Interesting. But I'd have to start eating cereal. I'm sure I can find some card though. Also, I just thought of painting the interior of one of the Chimeras - I don't plan on having the hatches open anyway.

# ¿ Apr 8, 2015 18:46

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

TheCosmicMuffet posted:

Listen, man. You buy GW products. Is throwing money away on cereal you're not going to eat really that big a deal?

Think of it as basing material. Get one of the fibery ones. I'm pretty sure they're not biodegradable.

But don't get a sugary brand. Because: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VU0GYSA1POs

Haha, I haven't bought a GW product in years. All my poo poo is old school, yo - my Chimeras have rubber tracks and my Hellhounds are partially metal. Put my IG in a sock and you could kill a man with it, unlike these kids today and their plastic "Astra Militarum" crap.

# ¿ Apr 8, 2015 21:28

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Zark the Damned posted:

IG Tanks used to have a generic Track Sprue cast in black plastic which were used by both Chimera and Leman Russ (plus variants of both), maybe those ones? I don't recall there ever being actual rubber tracks though.

Haha, whoops. You are correct - it has been so long since I've actually opened the boxes that I I was remembering the black tracks and conflating them with some older tank models I own with rubber tracks. They are, in fact, hard plastic.

I will stand by the fact that they are still old school. :colbert:

# ¿ Apr 9, 2015 00:50

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

If anyone is interested in learning some advanced techniques, such as pin washes, chipping, and weathering, I stumbled on a video by Mig Jimenez here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGPH1BM4e_Q Looks like it has some good explanations of some of the tricks to bring your painting to the next level.

EDIT: I don't know why the gently caress I can't get that video to start at 0:00. Just rewind to the beginning.

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Apr 10, 2015

# ¿ Apr 10, 2015 01:52

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Hollismason posted:

That music is to ominous for a painting instructional video, that said excellent video. Also it started at 0:00 for me.

People open this up the music intro is insane.

What the gently caress is up with the music in this video

Psh, that's nothing. Fast forward to 50:00 and listen to the techno remix of the painting instructions.

krushgroove posted:

Phone posting but I'm pretty sure this is in the OP already (one of the Vallejo videos is anyway), but I'd welcome any video/blog tutorials you guys think should be in the OP!

You are correct - I was not aware that you had already posted it.

# ¿ Apr 10, 2015 18:07

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Anyone who has done the hairspray chipping technique: Do you have to begin the chipping process immediately after applying your top paint layer, or can you wait? I've seen both "begin the process immediately after your paint layer is dry to the touch" and "whenever you get around to it..."

# ¿ Apr 12, 2015 20:31

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Thanks for the replies, guys.

# ¿ Apr 13, 2015 00:51

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Arcturas posted:

Goddamn, that looks genius!

EDIT: Some internet articles claim that you shouldn't use metallics on a wet pallette?

They can separate easier than regular paints.

# ¿ Apr 15, 2015 00:49

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Z the IVth posted:

2. Your model can fall apart - especially if its a multi-media piece. The metal/plastic/putty expands at different rates from the heat and you may find parts falling off. This also applies if you're blending onto already cured greenstuff.

Quoted for truth. My 10mm skeletons came back to me from the caster in little tiny bits. I don't know why you're putting your GS into an oven Big Ink, but you may want to reconsider just in case something terrible happens.

# ¿ Apr 16, 2015 18:43

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Well, you're not going to die, but your models could fall apart or explode, coating your oven in clay bits. If you're not in there with your baking models, you should be safe.

# ¿ Apr 16, 2015 23:15

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Arcturas posted:

That's a really pretty Gandalf!

Also, anyone have advice on what colors I can use to make assault jump pack exhausts look good and fiery? It's on epic minis, so the scale is super tiny and I don't have the skills to do much highlighting. Most of the rest of the model has been base coat then wash because that's what I have the colors for and the painting skills for.

If it helps they are ultra marines, so I did macragge blue for the base, drakenhof nightshade wash, then I did white on the shoulder pads tucked in front under the assault pack, a watered down gold on the chest detailing, then lead belcher on the sword blades and pistol magazines, nuln oil wash on the gold and silver, then a mephiston red base plus carroburg Crimson wash on the masks, other sword parts, and bolt pistols.

(I did a dry brush of the citadel light blue-etherium?- before I did detail colors, but I am not confident that I can dry brush the detail colors without smearing the dry brush colors all over the model, which is a shame because I would like to pick out the edges on the sword, bolt pistol, and mask.)

Basically I am happy with these guys from the front but want to make them look interesting from behind and the only way I can think to do that is to make their jump packs looks like they are doing something.

The only way I've found to make jump packs look like they are doing anything is to add exhaust: http://directfire.blogspot.com/p/epic-orks.html (See the Stormboyz, third photo down). Otherwise, at that scale, you can't really do much else.

# ¿ Apr 18, 2015 15:15

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Arcturas posted:

Thanks. I don't think I'm going to start fussing with green stuff or modeling flames/exhaust just yet, so I think I'll leave them as is. They still look pretty good for a first go, even if I'm a bit clumsy and have some smudging in places.

EDIT: Once I put together a lightbox I'll post some photos

Well, just an FYI, but they aren't green stuff. All the are is a piece of wire supporting the model and flock superglued to the wire. Once painted, it makes a great exhaust or smoke.

# ¿ Apr 18, 2015 23:04

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Increasing the suck? Bathroom fan. As long as you're not spraying flammable paints, you'll be good. If you do flammables though, you'll need a fan with an enclosed motor so you don't get a stray spark and blow up.

# ¿ Apr 22, 2015 19:28

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Welp.

# ¿ Apr 27, 2015 13:37

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

krushgroove posted:

It is being massively remodeled though, I'll be there on opening weekend and be taking pictures of everything. EVERYTHING.

Will we have to pay to see those too? And will GW throw you in GW jail for violating some sort of no photo confidentiality agreement you automatically consented to by saying "I'll take one" to the ticket seller at the front door?

# ¿ Apr 27, 2015 19:58

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Z the IVth posted:

I've heard that it might actually be *better* if you did so. Stops the outlets from clogging apparently?

This depends on how long you store the bottles upside down. The pigment will separate and settle into the nozzle, clogging it up and making it a real pain in the rear end to clean up. Honestly, I think it might be easier to stick a pin down the nozzle to clean out a little dried paint versus taking the entire bottle apart and having to clean all the pigment out and get it back into the bottle.

# ¿ Apr 28, 2015 01:30

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Lotsa Gorkamorka inspiration there... I already downloaded the entire series of photos to put in my inspiration folder.

God, this movie looks like it will be absolutely amazing.

# ¿ Apr 28, 2015 18:22

Adbot: ADBOT LOVES YOU

# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 08:02

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Imagined posted:

This is going to sound like some hippy PETA poo poo but somehow I've lived 35 years without knowing that they kill weasels in the process of making sable brushes. I'm not a vegetarian or anything, or against leather, but I do have a bit of a problem with cute (look at this face!), possibly endangered animals being skinned so I can paint plastic toymans. I guess I assumed it was more like wool where the hair was harvested without killing the animal. Nope.

So anyway, what are some good synthetic brushes?

Yeah, and they probably kill them in some horrible fashion as well. :cry:

I'd be interested in alternatives as well - I was always under the impression that Kolinskys were the best. I don't know if synthetics have caught up.

# ¿ Apr 28, 2015 20:10

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

«‹›17 »