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Moola posted:is now a good time to get an EVGA card to take advantage of their step up program Probably not. This came up in the GPU Megathread and how I understood it, is that the step up is valid for only 3 months and you can't step up to graphics cards that are in "limited availability" as defined by EVGA. I would expect the new cards to have limited availability for the foreseeable future. I have a hard time thinking what is the step up program good for. Pretty much the only scenario where it's useful is if you buy a too powerless card by mistake and can't return it to the store.
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May 8, 2016 14:46
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Trump posted:I've been asked to built/assemble a couple of computers for the homeless shelter where I work. They need to be able to do basic web stuff like banking, youtube, light streaming. Another requirement is, the parts need to be somewhat tough, since poo poo can go down pretty quick and violently from time to time. We would also like the USB and jack connectors to be available so people can listen to music and print stuff they bring in. That's an interesting challenge and the monitor will probably be the most difficult part. I can't really think of monitor model that is designed to withstand abuse and those that are, are probably expensive industrial models. Your best option could be to make the box large enough to house the monitor and make the front out of polycarbonate/lexan. I'm not sure how badly the polycarbonate would distort the image, so it may be necessary to take laptop to a hardware store and check them. Acrylic may be another, better alternative. Acrylic vs. Polycarbonate: a Quantitative and Qualitative Comparison I assume many homeless suffer from poor eye sight without good glasses, so you may want to choose monitors with low pixel density. A 19" 1280x1024 or 27" 1080p, maybe even 30+" TVs. You'll want to use a USB hub for the peripherals and USB sticks so the USB connectors in the NUC won't get damaged. Route the USB cable through a thin slit in the box and tie a loose knot on the inside of the box in case someone tries to yank the cable. 3.5mm extension cable to the outside of the box will take care of audio jacks. Saukkis fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Jun 4, 2016 |
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Jun 4, 2016 12:06
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Neo_Crimson posted:I made some adjustments: I think there was recently some test of different fan configurations that showed the importance of side fan, so it is probably better to choose a smaller cooler that fits inside with a side fan.
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Jun 30, 2016 04:25
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Your Loyal Vizier posted:Speaking of that test, has anyone figured out how to implement the side fan intake in an R5 without totally compromising the filtration? Fractal Design didn't see fit to put a filter over there Cut up pantyhose between the case and fan?
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Jun 30, 2016 06:21
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Subjunctive posted:I thought, though, that for semi-fanless PSUs the higher the rating the more load they could handle and stay fanless. Is that not the case? That's a good question and I'd say it depends on how the fanless function is designed. If two PSUs are designed to not spin the fan up to say 40% load, then the higher wattage one is more likely to stay below that. But if both are designed to not spin the fan up to a load of 250W, then it may be that the lower wattage may stay below the limit easier. The computer components should draw more or less the same amount of power regardless of what kind of PSU it has. So if both PSUs have same kind of efficiency curve, then it may be that the higher wattage one will be running at lower efficiency. It would then need to draw more electricity from the wall and it would need to expel more heat.
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Aug 18, 2016 00:58
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DrNutt posted:The biggest problem I've found is finding the right driver. I should have stuck with MSI because Gigabyte's driver download support appears to be garbage. Blowfish's suggestion should work. But if you can't figure it out otherwise you can always go to Device Manager, right click on any unknown device, choose Properties, go to Details-tab, select "Hardware IDs" from the Property-menu and make note of the VEN_ and DEV_ codes. Then go to PCIDatabase.com and search for the device. If it brand new hardware you may need to Google the IDs. It's usually preferable to get the drivers from the device manufacturer, they should be newer than the ones available from the computer or motherboard manufacturer.
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Aug 21, 2016 21:58
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kingcobweb posted:Buying a discrete sound card because I'm a huge music nerd Khablam posted:The on-board sound almost certainly has better sound than the budget card, or is completely indistinguishable. (115 snr to 105) If you are a music nerd you'll connect the integrated soundcard to an external amplifier using an optical SP-DIF cable. That way you avoid the interference caused by the computer, since the soundcard is transmitting a digital signal and you also avoid interference between the computer and amplifier since there is no galvanic connection. A more modern option would a HDMI connection, but I have some misgiving about it after burning two HDMI ports from my TV when plugging the cable while both computer and TV were connected to power.
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Sep 1, 2016 20:41
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Twerk from Home posted:I was assuming 4 256es would be more throughput, and the data on them really is transient. They are purely a development sandbox. How well have you automated setting up these development boxes, can you install a fully functional system in less than an hour? You would need to consider lost productive when one of the drives fails and you would need to replace the drive and rebuild the development system. I wouldn't be sure if the four Crucials would have better performance. Just by the specs alone, a single Intel would seem faster, 440k IOPS vs. 55k on the Crucial for example. But the Crucial seems to have surprisingly good write performance. You should compare the benchmarks on StorageReview and estimate which benchmarks matches best with your environment. Intel SSD 750, Crucial MX300. Saukkis fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Sep 21, 2016 |
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Sep 21, 2016 02:42
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SL the Pyro posted:I'm just more wary of it since it's someone else's computer that I'm building and he doesn't like the idea of more cooling with a replacement cooler (which I can understand, replacing the stock fan with an over-the-counter megafan is an irritating process). I didn't notice anyone addressing this. It's true that replacing a stock heatsink with an aftermarket is an annoying hassle, because you need to install the backplate. But since you are building from the ground up this is not a concern. Aftermarket coolers are better and quieter, but a significant advantage is also that the attachment they use is much better than the lovely one-use push-pins on the stock Intel. I'd consider aftermarket coolers easier to install.
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Sep 27, 2016 05:42
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khy posted:I know that no PC case will be 100% dust free, but can anyone make a recommendation for the PC case that gets the closest? I'm not really budget constrained for this. I once came across a Pentium computer at work that had been in use for a full decade and it was one of the cleanest computers inside I had seen. On that case the only air intake was through the PSU and it had foam filter. As VelociBacon said, filtered intake fans and positive pressure inside the case should keep it clean.
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Oct 1, 2016 20:36
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Khablam posted:Maybe? The nazi-like need people have for pointing out someone is slightly going over on their PSU is a little weird though. A good margin of error can't harm unless there's a budget constraint and plat-certified aren't wasting power anyway. If anything you're more likely to keep the PSU in the most-efficient zone whilst under load and overclocked, and that's a good place to be. Is that actually the case? I think my computer spends far majority of it's life at idle and that's where the efficiency of PSUs seem to drop. On high load the efficiency seems to keep up better, and I doubt modern computers reach very high loads anyway. Anyone have recent power draw figures for their computers?
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Oct 2, 2016 13:54
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LogicalFallacy posted:According to my UPS, idle is about 150W. This is on an OCed 6600K and gtx970. Firing up AIDA64's address test and furmark brings me up to 450. If that were powered by my Corsair HX520, at idle the computer would use about 118 watts and waste 30. At peak load the computer would be using 378W and wasting 70. If you computer would spend 2.5 times more time at idle than peak load, the idle consumption would be more important. I would assume that during games the computer would not reach peak load, more likely something between 350 and 400 watts. At 375W power draw the computer would use 318W and waste 55W.
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Oct 2, 2016 17:44
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HMS Boromir posted:You'd get a pretty decent boost from a new CPU as well, but it's likely to be the most expensive upgrade (since it basically means a new system) for the least immediately visible effect. You'd be able to carry over any of the above upgrades except the RAM so you're not losing much if you get them first. Tell us how much you're willing to spend and I can throw you something a little more concrete. An interesting question is, at what budget should one also consider CPU upgrade instead of just the GPU. And how much different games affect this.
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Oct 10, 2016 21:42
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Chieves posted:USA goon here, trying really hard to pick everything out correctly here. I already have an OS, monitor, keyboard, and mouse ready to go. I'd mostly like to do some 1080p gaming, minor video editing, messing around with basic software development, and other simple nerd stuff- I don't envision a need to overclock anytime soon, however. Any feedback is a blessing- thank you all for this amazing thread! Is there no way to run a network cable to your computer? I would hate to pay that much for an inferior networking solution.
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Oct 12, 2016 18:57
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Sab669 posted:I have a 2560x1440 monitor / 60 Hz. Looking forward to Dishonored 2, Titanfall 2, currently playing Deus EX: MD... So plenty of modern games. Something you should take into consideration is how much you can recover from the CPU and RAM in eBay. Or alternatively try to find a cheap, used motherboard. But availibily may be more limited and riskier.
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Oct 12, 2016 19:16
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BIG HEADLINE posted:In this instance, he's in Australia, so US Amazon/Newegg prices don't help him any. I think there has been posts in the GPU megathread saying that the prices in Australia are so high you still should buy the GPU from US. But I can't remember if this also applied to 1060 or just 1070+.
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Oct 28, 2016 16:00
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Serrath posted:Thanks for the second response. The alternative screen you linked is 24 inch but I was hoping for 27. Do I lose picture quality if I link the card's HDMI port to one monitor and the normal VGA port to the other port on the card? What monitor and resolution are you currently using and do you consider the text size too small? The monitor you chose is still only 1080p and with two of them you will end up turning your head a lot. Your applications will end up spread quite wide.
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Oct 29, 2016 17:22
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Serrath posted:That said, in addition to gaming, my other use for the computer is statistical research where I need to have very large statistical spreadsheets with very small numbers open on one screen while I'm typing a manuscript on the other screen so applications open wide will help with this a great deal. If they are too big, though, I can always go back and get something smaller in the future. That does sound like a use where higher resolution could be useful, depending on how much of the spreadsheet you would like to see at the same time. I wouldn't advocate getting a smaller size, but a higher resolution. Those monitors have a 1920x1080 resolution, but nowadays 27" monitors with 2560x1440 resolution are widely available. Of course the price jumps quite a bit. Alternatively if 1080p is enough for you, you could save quite a bit of money with smaller monitors.
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Oct 30, 2016 02:36
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Pikachu posted:I got a Windows 10 product key from the free upgrade scheme, so I imagine I'll be able to carry that over to a new system. Disco De Soto posted:Just realized that I can't transfer my Windows 10 license to my new computer build, since it's a free upgrade from Windows 7. gently caress you Microsoft As Disco found out, that product key is generic and useless for installation. When you did the Win 10 upgrade your motherboard was registered to MS license server and you can afterwards install the same version of Win 10 without any key. Thankfully there is a new way to transfer the license to a new computer, by logging in the computer with a Microsoft Account. Microsoft Takes Another Step Towards Minimizing Activation Issues on Windows 10
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Nov 4, 2016 20:28
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Insurrectum posted:• What country are you in? USA It sounds like single-threaded performance isn't important for you and since you plan to build it yourself then system warranty isn't either. In that case another option besides 6800k and 5820k could be a used workstation. HP Z600 with 2x X5650 CPUs would be available for about $400, which would leave room for more RAM and SSD upgrade. ~$800 could get you a HP Z620 with 2x E5-2660, but that wouldn't leave any budget for SSD. Used hardware is an option, but would certainly require thinking long and hard whether they can provide more performance for your use case.
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Nov 20, 2016 18:40
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Axetrain posted:I recently did a build with a 212 EVO and that Corsair LPX ram did fit but there wasn't much room left so I would be wary of getting anything with much more headroom if you want to use the 2 closest slots to the CPU. It's a great cooler but it's a big boy. How do you have the 212 EVO oriented? I have the 212 parallel to the memory slots and the fan is on the output side, so it doesn't interfere with RAM sticks at all.
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Nov 27, 2016 15:49
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Khablam posted:Years != years here. That was an unusually badly placed typo.
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Dec 10, 2016 17:41
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Anime Schoolgirl posted:I've used Cable Matters/Nippon Labs with no issue. That is exactly the type of molded adapter that people have had problems with. The SATA connector must not be molded over the wires. https://www.amazon.com/Syba-Molex-R...G7MSTVYG0XNS95S
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Dec 19, 2016 23:58
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ItBreathes posted:Also, you can pick up cheaper Windows keys in SA Mart. Windows 7 & 8 keys can still be used to register Windows 10, though apparently Microsoft is going to be cracking down on the assistive technology upgrades, so it's not a given that this will remain true. I registered a new Win 10 install just before new year with a Win 7 Ultimate key and it didn't seem to have any issues. I didn't use the assistive loophole.
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Jan 11, 2017 00:02
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Synthbuttrange posted:So pretty much the only things I'd be getting out of that would be the CPU, OS, a drive and a case? Hmmmm. The case may be non-standard enough that you don't want to use, it might not even be possible to install a better PSU. The drive is not SSD so you don't want to touch that and you can probably buy a cheapish Win10 license or Win8.1 and upgrade. So yay CPU?
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Jan 12, 2017 18:31
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HalloKitty posted:230V is glorious (or 240 in my homeland) but Schuko is not a glorious socket design. I find pretty much all the European designed plugs pretty bad in some way. UK plug and socket supremacy! (I seriously hate the lack of switches on sockets in Europe, and Europlugs are the flimsiest things I've seen). I'll have to disagree on this. I've been reading Tom's Hardware UPS tear-downs and one of the criteria they use is how easy it is to touch the prongs while unplugging. In this regard the US plug is about as bad as it gets. The UK plug is better because of the insulated prongs. But recessed socket would be a better option. I feel the Type J and Type N would be the best options. Recessed, small size, 3-prong, non-reversible, can even yank it by the cable when you can't be arsed with crawling.
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Jan 31, 2017 19:19
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Alehkhs posted:
Just a week ago I activated a fresh Win 10 install with a 5£ Win 7 Pro OEM key from eBay.
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Mar 30, 2017 18:15
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Missing Donut posted:Just standard HDMI/DVI. Two are horizontal, two are vertical oriented. What sort of video card would you suggest would be better? It'd be great to not worry about adapters. Displayport2HDMI/DVI adapters would be an annoyance and in my experience fail a bit too often. You could use the videocard chooser on PCPartsPicker and adjust the required amount of outputs. For example there are enough selection of Geforce 1050 cards with 1*DVI, 3*HDMI, 1*DP that could suit your needs. Finding a card without fan could be nice, but quite a bit harder.
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Apr 14, 2017 14:05
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wicka posted:Are there any reasonably priced M.2 to SATA/U.2 adapters? My motherboard only has a single M.2 slot, but I'm planning to move my boot drive from 256 to 512GB, and I'd like to be able to just clone the former to the latter. I think the product priznat linked is the opposite of what you want. Is your current M.2 drive SATA or PCIe/NVME model? I suspect the cheap adapter on eBay only work with M.2 SATA drives. One option is to make an image of your current drive and store it on a random SATA drive laying around, then copy it back to the new SSD.
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Apr 15, 2017 22:30
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Constellation I posted:For the OS, I'd hit up SA Mart instead. Should we be more focal about the SA Mart or eBay options. Windows 10 license is the biggest waste in any build that has it. You could get pretty nice hardware upgrade for that $130.
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Apr 20, 2017 22:16
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Fauxtool posted:Are all the 3rd party key marketplaces like kinguin still dumping grounds for keys bought with stolen CCs? Yes, I guess that kind of source can be a bit suspect. The british company that I bought my Win7 license from is prettty much an OEM license wholesaler and they seem to be a computer recycling company. So the license codes probably originate from destroyed business computers and I don't have much moral problem with that.
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Apr 21, 2017 01:07
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Luneshot posted:Is the Samsung 850 Evo still the SSD to get? I bought the one I'm currently using a little over two years ago and its making GBS threads the bed hardcore, and I'm hoping I can get another SSD before it goes entirely. That drive should have a 5 year warranty, so you could just RMA it.
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Apr 21, 2017 19:50
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Paul MaudDib posted:Unless the weight happens to be exactly balanced on the CPU cooler, you are going to be applying a pretty substantial amount of torque onto one corner of the die and/or corner of the socket. Especially with the cooler in a horizontal orientation (board vertical), but really either way. And if you are doing it with the rest of the case attached then this is insane. I think this scenario most likely comes up when you've tested the system on the motherboard box and want to install it in the case. With a cramped case it can be easier to hold the system from the heatsink. In the worst situation when the case is vertical, for example if I don't to remove the case from my under table computer hanger, I too would find it more convenient to hold the system by the heatsink.
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Jun 20, 2017 17:07
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Atlatl posted:I've recently had a few USB ports and stuff die on my Z77 board, but the big warning was my top PCIe slot dying. It's still hanging in there until the ebay replacement comes so you should have plenty of time left on it at least. I'm running my Linux home server on a P43 board with at least one failed cap. My problem also came apparent with malfunctioning PCIe x16 slot, so I had to switch to a PCI graphics card. Later I had to turn it off for few days and after it had cooled down I had major problems getting the OS to run again. The procedure to get it run again was to go to BIOS after powering up for 15 minutes of warmup. Then quick boot to System Rescue CD from USB stick and when that was up run cpuburn for hald an hour to heat up the computer properly. Then a quick boot to the debian and it has been running peachy for the past couple months. "Noooo! You can't die on me just before Ryzens are in the stores!" 
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Aug 3, 2017 20:13
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Moatman posted:IMO once you're spending around 1200 bucks on a computer it's worth it to shell out for a electronics vac or at least an electronics safe blower. Now, this might be because the last two places I've lived were insanely dusty and I was going through multiple cans of air a year but still. You can find used datavac blowers on ebay for like 40 or 50 bucks and they last basically forever. They're especially worth not having to deal with the cans getting cold or the air pressure getting weaker and stuff like that. Have you tried positive air pressure in your case and filtered intakes?
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Aug 6, 2017 13:08
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Just use zipties while you wait for a proper product to show up. The Scythe looked good otherwise, but I would worry how much noise that front grill with tiny holes would cause.
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Aug 7, 2017 09:51
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hagie posted:My mistake. I must have some whale of a mystery program some where taking up a poo poo ton of space. Run WinDirStat or similar to figure out where the space goes.
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Aug 14, 2017 22:46
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I would also recommend a prebuilt from major OEM. I've been quite happy with the HP EliteDesks we have thousands of at work. Just one bigger gotcha if you have a need for more powerful GPU. They often don't come with PCIe power cables, at least none of the EliteDesks or Dell OptiPlexes I've seen had one. That would significantly limit your GPU options unless you use SATA-PCIe adapters.
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Sep 11, 2017 18:40
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davidspackage posted:Is there such a thing as a more flexible USB3 cable? Here's why. I constantly use an external hard drive with my laptop, but had one almost die on me when I knocked it off the table. I then used velcro tape to attach the drive to the back of my laptop's screen while I'm working, which worked out quite well. But I've found that the short USB3 cable that attaches the drive doesn't deal well with the stress of bending whenever I open and close my laptop, and the contacts have bent a little, which causes the drive to lose contact when I even lightly touch the cable. peak debt posted:You could also look at the low tech solution of putting a cable guide on the back of your laptop that forces the cable to take a path that's easier on the plug. Or velcroing the drive in a diagonal way so the cable can follow its natural path. A nice solution could be to get an angled USB cable, where the cable would go straight towards the laptop hinge. That should minimize the bending force. Problem is finding the cable in suitable length. Newnex models US2-AMCBR2I-12 and US2-AMCBR4I-12 could work.
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Oct 8, 2017 15:30
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Elblanco posted:Sorry if this doesn't belong in this thread, not sure where else to ask. I'm trying to upgrade an old computer up to windows 10 with the info from the OP. I'm on Vista now(this comp was a gift from a friend) and I'm trying to get things going with 10. I can't seem to figure out how to run the setup for 10 from my computer. Everytime I click on the ISO file, it just opens up a program called Power2go, that looks to be for burning discs. Am I doing something wrong, or do I just have to get a disc to burn it onto? Either burn the ISO to a disc, or use Rufus or similar program to create a bootable USB stick. Vista can't be upgraded to Win 10, you will have to buy a Win7 OEM serial from eBay.
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Nov 13, 2017 22:54
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