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Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Re: Proper soldering technique

https://twitter.com/2_sac/status/829283177080451072

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Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

DrNutt posted:

What kind of cleaning do you recommend? I tried scrubbing FF2 with q-tips and 90% isopropyl alcohol for a bit, then I let it dry and still got the white screen. Is there another cleaner or method you would suggest? Thanks.

Use a pencil eraser on the contacts if the q-tips aren't doing the job, and also make sure that there isn't any junk inside the cart connector on the SNES. It also wouldn't hurt to clean the cart slot using alcohol + a toothbrush or a credit card with a piece of printer paper folded over it.

Edit: Also instead of letting it dry, I recommend going over the contacts with a dry q-tip after cleaning to get rid of any residue.

Monitor Burn fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Mar 5, 2017

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

What is the cheap option for buying NES/SNES/n64/Genesis game cases in bulk? Ideally I'd like one case that can do all 4. I inherited a nice color laser printer from work and it's time to hit up the cover project and stop letting my carts rattle around in a drawer.

If I was going to buy cases now, I'd go with these, as they actually fit both the cartridge and game manual properly without rattling or requiring modification to the case. They are sold by a Coverproject.net contributor and have a complete selection of original cover art images sized to fit, so you can either buy them with art inserts included or blank and print your own: http://www.customgamecases.com

The Universal Game cases linked earlier don't have tabs to secure manuals and will not fit SNES manuals (or the larger NES manuals like Final Fantasy) at all. They also only fit NES games after removing a bunch of plastic tabs with a dremel or flush-cutter.

Monitor Burn fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Mar 12, 2017

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Just wanted to repost this in case anyone is looking for a decent power adapter for retro consoles; I've bought several of them and they are pretty solid for around :10bux:. They output 9V 2A over the standard barrel connector used on the NES, AV Famicom, TG16/PC-Engine, Super Famicom, and Genesis model 1 consoles. The 90 degree connector is great for the PC Engine and Core Grafx systems which have the power plug on the side.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DTI9CJ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Altered Beast was the first Genesis game I saw/played, and I remember being impressed by the art and voice samples and how different it looked compared to games on the NES (I didn't know it was originally an arcade game until a while later). I found the controls stiff and not that fun to play for more than a few minutes though (never got past that first boss), which probably helped convince me not to get a Genesis. I was mainly playing Mario 3, TMNT 2, Super C, and Mega Man 3 at the time, so even games like Castlevania felt slow-paced and hard to get into.

Edit: After firing Altered Beast up again, it was definitely the giant floaty jumps that I wasn't a fan of.

Anyway, its not bad as a Genesis launch title, and it showed the system's capabilities as far as arcade ports. Definitely better than bundling Sewer Shark with the Sega CD.

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

worthless. posted:

I'm looking for a firm yet tender glover. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Actual question: I'm having a hard time finding a component to d-term adapter for my framemeister. Any recommendations? Or does anyone have one they don't want anymore?

I think Amazon.jp ships direct to the US now: https://www.amazon.co.jp/%E3%82%B3%...&language=en_US

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

Who is this Monitor Burn? I can't get anything by Googling

:rgb:

I also have a console modding thread here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3813846

Monitor Burn fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Apr 25, 2017

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Martytoof posted:

How often do you pick up new SNES minis? I'm debating finding a 1CHIP SNES mobo to swap into my SFC (drat it I just will not be able to stand a boxy SNES on my shelf :colbert: ) or just biting the bullet and going with a Mini.

I'll have a modded SNES-Mini available by tomorrow. I usually try to keep one in stock, but its been harder to find consoles in decent condition.


Phantasium posted:

I think I'll stick with clownvania for the moment.

Also considering it's a Monitor Burn special and I don't want to gently caress with it.

Its possible to get expansion audio to work on a Top Loader NES, but it also requires modifying the Everdrive cart to re-route the audio signal around the console's missing cart connector pins.

Monitor Burn fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Apr 26, 2017

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Martytoof posted:

Let me try to see if I can ground this one properly, I think I found instructions online for that once. If I can't manage, or if I somehow cut off a finger while trying to exacto-knife the casing open I'll definitely touch base.

Main thing I've noticed about cheap SCART cables is they never connect ground to the metal SCART shroud (pin 21). There's a hole in the shroud on one side that makes it easy to run a wire through; try connecting that to one of the pins that already has a ground cable connected to it (should be pin 4, 5, 9, 13, 17, or 18). Also make sure pins 4 and 18 are connected to ground, as most SCART devices use those pins.

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Only Shallow posted:

Microsoft tried but we all gave them poo poo for it



It probably would have helped if they were full-sized face buttons instead of black and white tic-tacs

falz posted:

So somehow this manual has all of its pages stuck together, more than just water damage, like someone spooged all over it or something. It's already pretty hosed up so I said gently caress it and steamed it. A few pages open up now but still another handful are stuck together. Any magic tricks to unglue/unspooge paper pages?





:stonk:

Monitor Burn fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Apr 29, 2017

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Djarum posted:

So I made a weird discovery last night. So I am in the process of moving and when putting my systems up I was giving them all a good dusting/clean with some alcohol in a spray bottle.

Well my SD2SNES that I got from Stone Age Gamer all of the sudden was covering my hand and the paper towels in grey paint... Yup they just paint their carts with what seems to be cheap spray paint due to how it comes off. So just a PSA to anyone else with their stuff I guess just use water to clean them if you need too.

That sounds terrible, I'll have to stop recommending that site for complete flash carts. Making your own SD2SNES shell is more fun anyway (and you don't have to pay extra for LIGHT TUBEZ):

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Mak0rz posted:

I know, but wouldn't Star Fox 2 be slow as poo poo to near unplayable levels with the SFX1? The games like Stunt Race FX were kind of a bitch to actually play because of it.

As far as I know, all versions of the SuperFX/SuperFX2 chips run at the same 21mhz speed, the only difference is the max ROM size they support. Starfox 1 boards have an additional clock divider that halves this speed to 10.5mhz, which is why those boards can't be used for any other SuperFX repro.

Here's some game footage of a Starfox 2 repro I built from a Stunt Race FX board: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NSsgHSBYRA

I also replaced the crystal in my Starfox 1 cart with a 30mhz chip (divided to 15mhz) and it does run a lot closer to 30fps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZ6pWTe-Sd8

Monitor Burn fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Jun 8, 2017

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Mak0rz posted:

Using the stock clock speed I assume? That's cool as hell.

Maybe I'll eventually get a SFX game I don't want too and see if I can have one made. I assume buying a repro outright is a bit pricey? My girlfriend no longer has access to her old electrical engineering lab and equipment so maybe I'll have to settle on buying one if I want it :argh:

Yeah Starfox 2 is just a rom swap, it works at the stock speed of the SFX game. There's only a few games that support the required ROM size and have sufficient RAM though. Other than Stunt Race FX/Wild Trax, there's Yoshi's Island, Doom, and Dirt Trax FX. Doom lacks the battery save for the high score function in SF2 though.

Also there's an adapter board available to provide a much cleaner install:
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/8q5YlfcR



I just picked up a TOP3000 burner, so I'll probably start selling Starfox 2 and other repros again soon.

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

This is the best S-video cable I've found under $20: http://www.ebay.com/itm/The-best-S-...n0AAOSwEppUPd4d

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

falz posted:

Maybe get console to bnc adapters with bnc ends and a bnc switchbox since they're cheap as balls.

I'd be curious if someone did the math. Cables from retro console girl on eBay are probably $50-60 this way, but I think the switchers are about the same price too.

I've been looking at alternatives to SCART cables like RCA, BNC, and VGA for a while, but I haven't come up with anything that is both cheaper and more convenient. The main problem is that each console requires different resistors, capacitors, and sync stripper circuits on the RGBS lines that have to fit into the cable somehow. The SCART plug is ideal for this because its a large box that can fit any required components, and is easy to modify by hand.

You could get around this by installing the resistors and capacitors in the console itself, but then the console wouldn't be compatible with standard SCART cables or custom adapters like Retrovision cables. There's also the option of building a pass-through adapter with the required components, but that probably wouldn't be much cheaper than using a standard SCART cable + SCART-BNC adapter.

The other issue is how you deal with audio; it either needs a separate break-out cable or decent internal shielding to avoid introducing more noise.

Then you need to factor in the fact that most popular RGB upscalers and adapters use SCART jacks for their RGB inputs, and some even have them built-in like the XRGB-3 or OSSC. You would have to build custom adapters cables for each device.

The "solution" I came up with was to add a separate VGA port to each console with the required components wired in, and routing audio through some of the unused pins. Then using standard VGA cables to connect each console to a VGA switch, and building an adapter cable with audio breakout from the switch output. Of course, that would require cutting extra holes in all of my consoles, I already own a bunch of SCART cables so I wouldn't save much cable-wise. I'd have to test the VGA cables/switches to make sure it didn't screw up the audio, or use the stock composite cables for each console to route audio to a separate switch.

tldr: :effort: I'll be pre-ordering superg's $200 gscartsw switch because its actually a lot easier. If I'm going to put in that much work, I'd rather try a multi-console project in the style of Stupidfingers' Super-Genintari.

Monitor Burn fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Jun 29, 2017

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

azurite posted:

Paging Monitor Burn, I knew you were interested in this as well:

In my never ending pursuit to find replacement AC adapters which are more efficient than their older counterparts, are smaller, supply more amperage (Everdrive), and won't burn your house down, I found another brand:

This one is center-positive, 9V, 2A, and UL Listed. It also comes with adapters so you can size down to a model 2 Genesis, 32X, or CDX.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N8W9LQ7/

This is the center-negative PWR+ I've called out in the past. This will work with SMS, model 1 Genesis, Sega CD, and PC Engine. NES, SNES, and Turbografx probably work too, but please verify.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DTI9CJ4/

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll have to try these out. Still looking for a decent NA SNES power supply replacement because of that dumb proprietary plug.

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

xamphear posted:

This will solve all your SNES power problems: https://console5.com/store/super-nintendo-snes-power-supply-adapter-plug-cable.html

I have one of these so I can use a single beefy +5v supply on as many consoles as possible.

I haven't had much luck with those unfortunately. I ordered several a few months ago and they don't make proper contact to any of my adapters, and lose the power connection if I glance at them.

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Console5 has 6' controller extensions for the PC-Engine for $2.50 each: https://console5.com/store/atari-sega-commodore-6-3-6m-joystick-extension-cable-cord-by-retro-bit-1.html

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

univbee posted:

I think there's some confusion depending on how you pushed the B and A buttons. Games like Mario where you for all intents and purposes would always hold down B, favor a system where your thumb rests flatly on the B button (so your fingerprint is centered on it, which will naturally happen since the button is concave) and then pushing A by bending your knuckle down so you push the A button with the bottom part of the knuckle. This method got hosed by the NES Dogbone controller since the A was above and to the right of B like on the SNES controller, but then the SNES controller "fixed" it by making the B-A equivalent Y and B, and even on NA controllers making the Y button concave to encourage your thumb to rest inside it like on the NES controller.

As far as I know, every SNES-NES controller adapter maps SNES-Y to NES-B, and SNES-B to NES-A so your thumb is at an \ angle just like Super Mario World on the SNES: http://www.raphnet-tech.com/products/snes_to_nes_cable/index.php

You can also make your own adapter with the same button setup out of a SNES and NES extension cable using this pinout:



The GBA and DS use BA instead of BY for SNES ports of course, which screws up the ergonomics if you are used to SNES controls. So the 8-bit-do controllers also default to BA and can't be re-bound? I was considering picking one up but that's kind of a dealbreaker.

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Buccaneer posted:

Where the ac adapter plugs into the system there is a pin that contacts the inside of the cord and a flat piece of metal that contacts the outside. Sometimes the flat part gets bent back over time and doesn't make a good connection so try using a pick or paper clip to bend it closer to the center pin before buying a soldering iron

The flat part also loses contact when there's 25 years of dirt caked on it, so try using a toothbrush/cotton swab + alcohol to clean it first as well. Make sure the power supply side is clean as well (wait a bit for it to dry before testing it of course).

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Uncle at Nintendo posted:

I figured this would be the best place to ask.

I was trying to swap an 8 pin bios chip. One of the legs came completely off. It didn't snap, it like, slid out of the drat chip. So there's not even a spec for me to solder on to.

I've been reading that I could lightly Dremel the chip to expose some metal of where the pin went to. However, I thought these things were like micro SD cards in that every spec of it has data on it. I don't want to "scrape off" any data. Is the "data" typically on the top of the chip, or the bottom? Or neither? Basically, does it matter which side I scrape to get to the pin?

I've done this with a NES PPU chip before and it worked fine. The real challenge is getting solder to stick to the pin leads; I had to sand it a bit before coating it with flux.

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Drowning Rabbit posted:

Anyone use the Game Case King cases for SNES? They sell them here: https://gamecaseking.com/products/new-snes-game-case-with-internal-artwork-b9106d53-488e-475c-a084-a856d3f81ac6

I was curious if anyone actually uses these. They look cool, and give the genesis complete in box feel to SNES carts is my impression. I was literally looking at my SNES collection and just thinking how I don't have the little dust covers for a lot of my games, and the manuals are lost to the ether or otherwise getting beat up just sitting on a shelf. Figured these would be cool to have for at least the gems of my collection, and the few games that I wanted to get to fill it out.

( I have a VERY small SNES collection due to owning a SD2SNES at this point, and mostly want actual carts for speed run purposes or nostalgia, so there aren't many to buy )


I kind of doubt a SD2SNES would fit in one of these though :(

I'd recommend going with CustomGameCases instead, as they run about $4 each including the label. Its run by one of the CoverProject guys as well: http://www.customgamecases.com/online-store

Edit: It looks like GameCaseKing is actually using CustomGameCases for their products and marking them up, so I'd recommend just cutting out the middleman?

Monitor Burn fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Sep 13, 2017

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Drowning Rabbit posted:

Awesome, thanks bud.

I saw the "Universal Game Case" which I was apathetic towards due to no tabs to hold the manual. I'll look into these as well. Most likely he's just marking them up in order to cover for his custom printed art and stuff, which isn't as scummy at least as it can be made out to be.


Ninja E: Wait, what the poo poo?! These have the custom art and everything. Is he seriously just effectively a reseller? Also, this dude needs to work on his web page, it loads like rear end.

The Game Case King guy probably prints the labels out himself, but he's most likely using the exact same CGC image files which can be obtained from CoverProject.net

The CustomGameCase guy does the actual work of formatting and touching-up high-quality box art scans to create those labels in the first place, so I try to promote his site when I can.

Monitor Burn fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Sep 13, 2017

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Drowning Rabbit posted:

Blergh, he doesn't have box art horizontal versions like the other guy, and specifically doesn't have games I would want like Super Metroid. :(

I have a very small collection that I have due to nostalgia and speed running as I've mentioned so buying like 50 cases and printing my own is absurd. I have maybe 10 games I would do this for, and that is generous.

Regardless he doesn't seem to offer any of the horizontal art that mimics box art.

He does have all those options/games though? Do you have a script-blocker enabled? There's radio buttons to select between vertical and horizontal box art. Try searching through the letter pages instead of using the search bar, it might be broken.

http://www.customgamecases.com/online-store/Super-Metroid-p54317353

Monitor Burn fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Sep 13, 2017

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Looks like Retro-Access finally has a website up for their SCART cables, with cheaper prices than their Ebay store:

https://retro-access.com/

Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

Sir Tonk posted:

Yeah, but I still need to be able to play regular US carts.

There's an aftermarket universal cartridge slot for the N64: https://www.shapeways.com/product/VRHZKBHUZ/n64-universal-cartridge-slot

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Monitor Burn
Nov 29, 2001
No clever to be found here

wa27 posted:

What the hell? Just file down the tabs inside and save $25. You have to open the console either way.

Yeah that's what I do, but some people prefer the cleaner install, or want to keep the plastic unmodified in case they sell the console later.

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