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fat bossy gerbil posted:I gave my father a computer I built in 2015. It’s got one of those asrock boards with a soldered on Celeron, 4gb ddr3 and a single platter drive. He only uses it to watch YouTube lessons for his pedal steel guitar. It’s got a decent Antec basic power supply that I’d like to harvest for my own use, but the only thing I have to replace it with is a crappy Turbolink 500w unit that I pulled from a friends PC when I gave him a new video card because it didn’t have a gpu connector. I was just going to give him the card but I had to give him my spare psu too. On the one hand, it'll probably work, but on the other hand is it really worth the effort to pull a 4 year old PSU to re-use and swap it? It's getting kind of old at that point. I usually buy a spare PSU on black friday to have one sitting around so you might be able to get a good deal on something quality in less than two weeks. Last year I got a 1000W EVGA 80+ Gold G3 for $99. In previous years I've picked up 750 Watt gold PSUs for $60-70.
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Nov 16, 2019 20:21
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teagone posted:The apartment building that my sister-in-law's family lived in burnt down a week or so ago. Long story short, they had no renter's insurance and basically lost everything in the fire. The kids are particularly fond of gaming, and they lost their PCs, laptops and gaming console. I have a bunch of old parts in storage that I'm going to put together into a system for them to use to play primarily Minecraft and Fortnite. Specs from what I've managed to rummage through so far: I haven't played fortnite in a while but I was able to get it running on a laptop with integrated graphics just by turning the resolution down. I think a dedicated GPU will play fortnite okay, although they may have to turn some settings down. The CPU is below their minimum spec, but their minimum spec is an i3 so it'll probably be fine. https://www.wepc.com/benchmark/fortnite-system-requirements/ I'd give it a shot, something is better than nothing and just having an SSD will make the PC feel fast in general.
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Nov 16, 2019 23:11
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Boz0r posted:I have a 6600K and 1070 setup. How much would I get out of throwing another 1070 in there? SLI is garbage now, not that many games support it and if they do it's not worth the price of a second card. You'd be better off selling your current card and getting a beefier one.
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Nov 18, 2019 12:39
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Joker posted:So I put together my new build and my ram is only showing up as 2133MHz when its DDR3600 ram. You need set the ram to XMP speeds in the bios. It's often just a drop down menu that enables it. It will default to the base DDR4 speeds if you don't, which is what it's doing now.
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Dec 8, 2019 03:14
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whydirt posted:Okay, I finally got my new machine built and discovered that my existing Lenovo display has a VGA connector and not an HDMI. No, they usually work as advertised. It's a good time to shop for monitors, though.
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Dec 17, 2019 04:25
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Songbearer posted:I've been using my HDDs from several builds across several years now and they're finally giving out. Recommend me some nice ones in the 1TB range? Non-SSD since my budget is limited. Like, how limited? 1TB SSDs are $100, 8TB hard drives are $130 on fairly regular sale. 1TB hard drives start around $45 because there's just kind of a minimum cost to the disk it seems like.
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Dec 19, 2019 19:29
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Bank posted:Anyone install a Scythe Mugen cooler on here? I tried to install it last night and royally messed up.. That's rough, if you get the parts replaced and do it again, get the first screw started a couple of turns, then get the other one started and get it in a bit, and then alternate tightening. Since it relies on pressure you want to kind of see-saw it down. It's kind of like lug nuts on your wheel where you tighten in a star pattern so one side doesn't bind up.
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Dec 30, 2019 18:57
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Bank posted:Yeah I'm almost thinking the screw was defective or something. The first clip (with two screws) went on just fine, and so did the first screw on the second clip. The last screw was a cluster though as it kept getting misthreaded so I couldn't even lead it in. There was definitely a bit of forcing I had to do as it wouldn't go in no matter how often I backed off the screw to find a entry. Yeah it definitely sounds like something may have been defective although it's not clear which. Screws are bad with shear forces but I wouldn't think you could put that much force on one just threading it into a threaded insert, even if it was a little cross-threaded. I'd reach out to the companies but considering that neither are headquartered, the US you may have to wait a couple of weeks for replacements. Amazon would undoubtedly be faster but you'd have to break everything down to ship it back for replacements which is also a pain.
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Dec 30, 2019 19:49
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G-III posted:The machine will be next to an entertainment center so best to have a traditional tower The Enthoo Pro is a great case but it's a bit larger than your usual tower so bear that in mind. It can accommodate an extended ATX board. I think they have an Enthoo Pro M but I'm not sure how many drives it comes with. I have an enthoo pro and it's great but takes up a good amount of space under the desk. Luckily the 140 and 200mm fans are very quiet.
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Jan 12, 2020 02:41
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Bob NewSCART posted:looking for some recommendations on a nice roomy ATX case with really good airflow/fan cooling? my case is like a decade old and the fans are rattling excessively at this point. Here's a bunch of good ones: Scruff McGruff posted:Most of the $70-$120 mid-tower cases will fill these requirements so take a look at some of these and see if any jump out at you. If you want really big the full size Enthoo Pro is huge and quiet and not too pricey but big.
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Jan 14, 2020 12:38
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Snacks Redux posted:So I got my case and mobo yesterday and everything else today. My plan is to start my build after work but watching YouTube videos/my motherboard box has me worried about static. I definitely don’t want to brick anything. I planned on building it on my kitchen table (wood table, linoleum floors) and using the motherboard box to keep it off the table. Does that sound okay or are there any steps, besides buying the special straps, that I could take to avoid that? Touch some grounded metal before you touch any parts of the computer to ground yourself. For the most part metal devices with three prong plugs have grounded cases, but you can also just plug the power supply into the wall and touch it. You don't have to turn it on for the ground to be connected. Don't wear fleece.
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Jan 17, 2020 19:00
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Jaded Burnout posted:While I'm here, does anyone have a preference on brands for vesa monitor arms? I have an OK flexible wall mounted one now, but I'll need another and it'll need to carry a 32" display at full horizontal extension. Ergotron is the gold standard but costs a lot. I think amazon basics has rebranded them in the past. I've used some cheaper stands from amazon vendors like North Bayou that are solid but I can't vouch for their whole product line, I'd definitely go by reviews and look for any problems. The monitor thread probably has some opinions, too.
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Jan 18, 2020 05:08
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Cocaine Bear posted:I just picked up a 4tb HDD for extra storage. I plugged it all in and my computer wont turn on. Some troubleshooting and the only way to prevent this is to unplug the sata power cable from the PSU. I didn't have my originals so I got the power cable off a friend from a rig he built a year ago. It's definitely plugged into the sata power slot (I tried 2 of the 4 available ports). When it's plugged in (whether plugged into the hard drive or not) the Mb clicks and one led flashes then nothing. As soon as I unplug the sata power cable from the PSU, everything works fine. Yes, modular power supply cables are not the same between brands. Getting a cable from a friend with a different one means it may not be wired the same (and it probably isn't and you're likely shorting something out). You have to use one of the ones that came with your PSU or get a compatible one from the manufacturer or one of the sleeved cable makers.
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Apr 9, 2020 01:20
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Cocaine Bear posted:Well poo poo. Guess I need to hunt down a very specific power cable then. Some of the cheapest sources are also the slowest shipping right now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCIe-6Pin-1-to-4-SATA-Power-Cable-for-Seasonic-FOCUS-Plus-Gold-850-750-650-550-/202480985541 Cablemod is who I was thinking of for custom cables. They'll have it but it'll be a bit more costly. You can get it sleeved in cool colors, though! https://cablemod.com/made-for/seasonic/
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Apr 9, 2020 01:33
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Cocaine Bear posted:Yeah, everything I'm seeing is either 30 bux or takes months to arrive. It's nothing urgent but guess I'm going to have to shell out or wait or find a friend with a spare from the same series of PSU. Your description makes it sound like after being told to power on the system or even the PSU realized there was a short or some bad voltage and just stopped the whole boot up right away, so that's good. I'd guess if the computer is running it's probably okay. To test the hard disk you could plug it in with the cables from another disk and check that at least it shows in the BIOS/UEFI or use a bootable OS to check it out. Otherwise I'd use an external HD adapter but I know not everyone has those cluttering up the place.
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Apr 9, 2020 02:01
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KingKapalone posted:It sounds like one of the 80mm fans in my file server is making some new noise I don't like. I have two of these in there from 2016 https://www.newegg.com/silenx-efx-08-12-case-fan/p/N82E16835226033?Item=N82E16835226033 but I wonder if there's something better. I want quiet since it's always on (and now in the room I'm always in due to WFH). It's not a variable RPM fan which I guess would be nice when the server isn't doing anything. I don't know if the motherboard supports that though, but I'd have to see if I can remember which board is in here. Noctua's going to be the way to go for that, but definitely check if you've got a 2, 3, or 4 pin fan. Either way the Noctua's support PWM if you have it. https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=noctua+80mm
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Apr 14, 2020 17:37
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KingKapalone posted:Thanks I'll look. Probably a nvidia GTX 1660 Super if he can go a little over $200. If not the AMD RX 580 is a little older but decent and often around $180 for new.
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Apr 14, 2020 19:31
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KingKapalone posted:Currently the fans are 3 pin but they're plugged into 4 pin connectors. Here's what the mobo says: PWM just lets it monitor the tach and speed it up and down as it wants to. That one will be fine, I think the A8 (brown kind) is probably quieter due to the rubberized corner pads and extra mounting accessories in the box like the rubbery screw replacements, but the R8 will still be super quiet and good.
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Apr 15, 2020 05:11
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Maple Leaf posted:I have two SSDs in RAID 0 on my current mobo and I'm thinking of upgrading. Would changing out the motherboards (or, while I'm at it, resetting the BIOS via removing the CMOS battery or something) uncouple them? It's not a huge deal if so, I just have some games and recordings in there that can be reinstalled and moved, respectively, I'm more just curious. It depends on how they're set up in raid. If it's software then you'd just need the same software. If it's hardware you could use the same raid card. If it's hardware on the motherboard then yes, a new motherboard will destroy your raid setup. I don't know about resetting the cmos on the old board. If you're setting things back up again, you should probably just not use RAID 0, especially with SSDs.
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May 6, 2020 06:18
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Try not to spin the fans up with the air since they'll just be generating power.
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May 12, 2020 17:23
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It's not a joke, blasting the fan blades so they spin generates power (just like any motor when you power the output) which doesn't have anywhere to go when the system is unplugged and powered down and could possibly damage components. You want to clean the fan blades some but letting them free spin is a bad idea.
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May 12, 2020 17:40
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Klyith posted:TBH I've never been sure how true the whole case fans spinning thing is. Like it's not false, an electric motor is a generator. But I'm somewhat skeptical that a fan will generate enough volts or power to gently caress anything up. The jack they're plugged into are power delivery components, not the delicate bits. I avoid it anyways because why take risks? I tried it out and only built up a couple of volts with canned air and a cooler master 120mm. I think the main issue is that you can kill the pcb in the fan, but there's the potential to send generated power into the motherboard, which would mostly be low voltage on the 12v rail but could still cause weirdness since it's not plugged into a ground or anything.
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May 12, 2020 22:13
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Disargeria posted:Is there a downside to getting a 1200w psu if I only need 600w or so? I am really struggling to find anything out there that will ship in the next month but I see a decent 1200w for like $300 that I can get this week. Not really, I mean, the optimal efficiency of most PSUs is at around 50% draw but the 80+ ratings, especially gold and platinum have good efficiency through a lot of different loads. That is a lot to spend on one PSU, though. There's some for sale at best buy but not for shipping, only for stores that have stock that may be worth looking at. There's some of these on office depot but they're selling out fast. It's not an amazing PSU but it'll work and it's actually available for now: https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/6902215/Gigabyte-P650B-Power-Supply-Internal-33/ If you literally can't find anything else I've used one of these in a build. It's almost ATX, in that it fits the profile except it's really long and the fan sticks out so that it won't work in every case. I couldn't fit it into a case with a "basement" cover because the fan hit it, but I did fit it into one where it was mounted on top. It's big. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lenovo-Thi...sIAAOSw58ZetdaS There's also bronze ones that are cheaper but will have the same fitment issues: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Le...zwAAOSwrkJeu0v~
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May 19, 2020 04:16
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Gamesguy posted:I'm currently on an old win 7 system(3570k) with a ton amount of software and data I've got on it - around 7 tb across 5 drives. But lately I've been seriously bottlenecked by the old CPU, especially playing M&B2. So to start with, I recommend doing a new install. Rip off that band aid because you'll find you don't need everything you have. It will be a pain to reinstall but if you keep your old system running you can easily go grab config files and make sure you didn't miss anything. That all said, you can absolutely upgrade your old machine from Windows 7 to Windows 10 and keep your stuff (mostly everything will probably be compatible, the installer will tell you if something won't work on 10). After that changing the disks over or imaging the old disk to a new one and putting it in a new system will work 99% of the time.
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May 23, 2020 00:40
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That's a weird looking 3d printer. Where's the hotend?
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May 24, 2020 05:38
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keep it down up there! posted:So I'm a dummy and bought some Fractal Design Prisma RGB fans that use a 3pin (5v header) and my Tomahawk Max only has a 4 pin (12v) headers. I didn't even realize there was a difference before buying them as I was always used to just plugging into the SYSFAN ports. Getting the fans with shipping delays was already a hassle so I'm not to keen on returning them if I can avoid it. The fans are 4 pin 12V PWM based on the page you linked. 5V is for the LEDs. The fans will spin if you plug them in, but they won't light up without the latter.
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May 29, 2020 08:50
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Kraftwerk posted:Does reusing the same key on a new mobo+system flag the key for invalidation by microsoft? Probably not. If it activates it activates. If it doesn't you might have to call them or spend $5 on another one.
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Jun 29, 2020 20:45
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Verviticus posted:is there a safe way to test if a PSU works? i found an RM550x just sitting in my pile of stuff and it has the serial number of a psu I bought in 2016, but I'm not using it. im pretty sure it was defective and I forgot to RMA it, and now I'm wondering if I should just do that instead of buying a new one You can jump the green wire on the 20 pin connector to any black connector to see if it fires up, but that will just show that it operates, not that it operates well. PSU testing is somewhat difficult since you have to put it under load to determine if it's working correctly unfortunately.
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Jul 10, 2020 23:16
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SopWATh posted:You can buy a PSU tester, they only do rudimentary voltage measurements on the pin-out. I've used one of those and they do check voltage but they don't seem to load the PSU enough to make sure it's working well.
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Jul 11, 2020 00:36
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Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:Thanks. It's pretty mature but it's still not a bad idea to buy from a big manufacturer just in case there's issues. I mostly own Crucial, Samsung and Sandisk drives and luckily haven't had an issue since my first OCZ. Oh, I almost forgot, I have a couple of little PNY disks that haven't died, too, but I wouldn't call them a good manufacturer since I've seen a lot of their drives that are put into Dell machines die. WD bought Sandisk's SSD division so I'd probably shop them, Crucial or Samsung unless there's a compelling reason to go with something else (like the Inland disks that had a good controller that were cheap at one point).
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Jul 21, 2020 05:14
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WampaLord posted:Got any good recommendations for a cheap big non-SSD hard drive? The best value for money is buying an 8TB or larger external WD drive and shucking it from its case. They're on sale frequently. The current deal isn't the best (they get as low as $120 for the easystore version) but it's still decent: Additional savings w/ promo code EMCDRDG39, limited offer (brings it to $130): https://www.newegg.com/black-wd-elements-8tb/p/N82E16822234349?Item=N82E16822234349 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CwtxMV2YB0 If you don't feel like shucking the 6tb CMR disks are $150-200: https://smile.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Red-Hard-Drive/dp/B07B1HX5KN/ https://smile.amazon.com/Seagate-IronWolf-Internal-Hard-Drive/dp/B085Z4P89R/ https://smile.amazon.com/Toshiba-3-5-Inch-Internal-Drive-HDWN160XZSTA/dp/B06Y2KCXCM/ I own two of the Toshiba 6TB and they've been good for me but they do have mixed reviews in the comments.
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Sep 2, 2020 21:11
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Zarin posted:Well, looks like I just missed a bit of FanChat, but if I can maybe ask a couple questions here . . . A lot of the choices are going to have varying speeds and CFM levels that will make which choice has more airflow into a bit of a "it depends" answer. For example: 200mm 76 cfm: https://smile.amazon.com/AeroCool-Silent-Master-200mm-Blue/dp/B009XERK6G/ 200mm 110 cfm: https://smile.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-F200SP_BBK-200mm-Premier-Blades/dp/B016NHSB4U/ 200mm 129 cfm: https://smile.amazon.com/Thermaltake-200x30mm-Anti-Vibration-Mounting-CL-F015-PL20BL/dp/B00J0NZFIA/ 140mm 81 cfm: https://smile.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-F200SP_BBK-200mm-Premier-Blades/dp/B016NHSB4U/ 140mm 58 cfm: https://smile.amazon.com/Kingwin-CF-014LB-Efficient-Excellent-Ventilation/dp/B014PXH2U8/ There's also fan controllers to vary fan speeds that should be accounted for. The "silent" fans are usually low RPM and lower CFM but you mostly leave them at 100% speed and won't hear them, whereas some of the faster ones are more audible when cranked up. I'm not going to recommend a specific configuration but I do own the 200mm and 140mm phanteks fans listed. For top fans you generally have them blow out so it's not quite as important as front fans or side fans which are usually intake fans. You may have a different airflow configuration and that's fine if it works for you. The advantage of 200mm is that they can move more slowly and make less noise. In my phanteks enthoo pro case I used a 200mm on the front, 140mm on the bottom, 140x2 on the cooler, and 140mm on the back. It was barely audible and the GPU fans were the most noticeable when they'd ramp up. I went for positive air pressure with the back fan being the only out fan and it worked well for me. I also have some Cooler master, Scythe, and Noctua fans with the latter two brands being higher end. As far as bearings are concerned I was always told that sleeve bearings will die quickly when run horizontal so ball bearing or maybe one of the new magnetic bearings would be better for a horizontal fan. They cost more but won't get noisy and die in a couple of years.
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Sep 29, 2020 00:03
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Alokgen posted:Follow up to my first build troubles from a few pages ago. Your motherboard doesn't have any video output, those plugs on the I/O plate are only used if you install an AMD APU which is a processor with graphics. As for the additional cables, the bottom cable is for EPS 12V extra CPU power on the motherboard, only the top ones are PCI-E video card power. EPS can be 4 or 8 pins and PCI-E can be 6 or 8 pins. They're wired differently and you should never plug the CPU one into the video card. I don't know if it'd cause damage but I would hope the D shaped surrounds on the pins would prevent it from going into the GPU header (and vice versa).
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Oct 3, 2020 00:33
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Alokgen posted:Not sure if it's it's been damaged. Using the cables that are clearly marked PCI-E, the video card fans are spinning, but still no display. Not long, 20-30 seconds maybe? I'd make sure you re-seat your ram and unplug any other accessories but the cpu, ram, and gpu for testing.
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Oct 3, 2020 02:33
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side_burned posted:I am looking to upgrade the SSD my operating system is on. This Inland seemed to be the best deal for a 2TB M.2 drive that used TLC. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X74M6PT/?coliid=IEU8CPFCERE04&colid=1NRN82VFS1TSP&th=1 I wouldn't bother unless you have one that you got for free. I recall reading about the driver chip being hot throttling transfer rates, but the flash memory being hot not being a big deal a year or more ago. Generally this won't be an issue except for very long sustained disk activity. The one you linked looks pretty big, too, so it could possibly interfere with fitment if the M.2 slot is near your PCI-E video card or something.
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Oct 23, 2020 08:45
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I thought it was worth asking about.
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TheDiceMustRoll posted:Hello, I have a PC I'm planning on upgrading. Coffee Lake at 3.7ghz should be the i7-8700K so you will probably be good with an RTX 3000 series card. They are hard to get right now but a RTX 3080 or 3090 are going to be your best choices for 4K.
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Oct 26, 2020 04:55
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Wowporn posted:I forgot nvme drives were a thing that happened since my current pc doesn’t support them, I kind of have all the hard drives I want but is it worth it to get a new one of those instead of reusing my sata SSD as my boot drive? They're faster but not that much faster in real world tasks. If you're happy with the capacity of your current one I'd just reuse it until you feel like a size increase and having less money. They'll always be cheaper and bigger later on.
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Oct 29, 2020 07:51
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Capntastic posted:EVGA 3070 says a 650 watt power supply is required and mine is 620. Is that a hard no-go or can I squeak by? If you have a high quality power supply you'll probably be okay. What power supply is it?
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Oct 30, 2020 10:43
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Capntastic posted:Seasonic 620 Bronze That's not a bad one, you'll probably be okay. A lot of the video card requirements are laid out assuming you have really cheap garbage that won't be able to give the video card a couple hundred watts reliably.
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Oct 30, 2020 10:52
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redpleb posted:anyone else order anything from amazon and have really fucky shipping? I ordered a bunch of my new computer parts and it said most of them were going to come in yesterday and now it's saying on the site that the package is "late" because theres been no update on the tracking info since thursday or friday when I ordered everything and it hit me with the ominous "if it doesn't show up by tuesday you can request a refund or replacement". not confidence boosting. I've had that happen to a couple of orders recently. I figure they're having warehouse workers strike and maybe the hurricane damaged infrastructure or something because they're a terrible company to work for. I just take the refund and reorder if I have to. I'm supposed to get some shock cord in today which is a Sunday but they did ship it yesterday so maybe it'll happen. I don't usually care if they can get me something on a Sunday, most of the time it can wait. Prime shipping has been really spotty for a couple of years but the pandemic has made everything worse.
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Nov 1, 2020 10:50
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