3d Printing for the Tabletop: The Future is Now

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > 3d Printing for the Tabletop: The Future is Now

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Oh cool, a 3d printing thread!
I been printing a bunch of the Ulvheim ruins for Fantasy games, and the clean looking sci-fi buildings from Corvus Games Terrain. After that the plan is to print a bunch of buildings for Adeptus Titanicus off of thingiverse.
My FDM printer is... not great, I got the old Anycubic Mega Zero, which lacks a lot of QOL stuff. Changing a few fittings and buying a removable plate for the bed has made it a million times better, though.

On the resin side, I recently bought a Photon Mono, also from Anycubic, and it's an absolute dream to work with. I'm mostly printing Bestiarum stuff, but I'm also working on hacking stuff together for a Kill Team of Savlar Chem-Dogs. And, of course, everybody wants me to print them baby yodas and Star Trek ships and poo poo.

# ¿ Apr 8, 2021 09:07

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# ¿ May 15, 2024 19:47

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

I'm printing a ton of "definitely-not-space-marines" in Epic scale for decorating my Adeptus Titanicus bases. I almost want to play Epic now, since printing up a giant army takes no time at all.

# ¿ Apr 12, 2021 09:52

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

jesus WEP posted:

i bet that no-one has made a dumber printing mistake than i did over the weekend

went to clean out the vat, so i got a funnel and the original bottle to pour the excess, thought to myself �hmm it�s a bit dark here in the garage� and took it outside to pour it instead

fortunately i noticed the skin forming almost straight away so i got it back indoors and was able to hack the hardened top layer off easy enough. god drat i am a dummy

I like this, because it wasn't me who did it, even though it easily could have been.

# ¿ Apr 19, 2021 18:54

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

I use acetone for cleaning. I just swish the print around in two baths of it and it's super clean. It's cheap, but smells pretty bad.

# ¿ Apr 20, 2021 17:26

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Lumbermouth posted:

Tried my first overnight print. It, uh, didn’t go so well.

That's the worst. How's your leveling?

# ¿ Apr 22, 2021 16:15

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Mikey Purp posted:

I'm looking for a good source of AoS terrain, ideally elven flavored rather than the huge number of generic ruins that I keep finding. Has anyone found a source that fits the bill?

Maybe Black Magic Pixels? Their Ethilia stuff looks nice. https://www.blackmagicpixels.com/

# ¿ Apr 22, 2021 20:45

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Verisimilidude posted:

X-post from the mini painting thread. Unfortunately it's hard to not get those pock marks on the base rims, but I'm ok with it.

Looking good! Do you snip or cut the supports off? I've had much better results by cutting them off with a scalpel, so it doesn't shatter.. It also seems like an odd place for supports on a base, unless it's printed with the figure as a single part.
I'm not an expert on supports at all, though.

# ¿ Apr 23, 2021 22:29

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Harvey Mantaco posted:

I lowered the plate speed and tried a cure time of 3 seconds and it seems better? (Kind of... half stayed without falling off, rest have shreds of resin hanging off, what the Christ).

Anyone see anything like this before?

Do you use anti-aliasing? It'll erode thin spots to the point where stuff can fail. Most slicers also AA the supports, so they can break down as well.

# ¿ Apr 30, 2021 07:13

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

I printed a Belicosa Volcano Cannon for my Adeptus Titanicus Warbringer. There is no official model, so it' insanely nice to be able to just print one.

# ¿ May 3, 2021 13:46

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

jesus WEP posted:

is there a rule of thumb for the relationship between exposure time and layer thickness? the factory default settings work pretty well (anycubic photon mono se) but i get a little bit of the �topography� look which is more noticeable as i paint the model.

i tried printing a test piece just by reducing layer thickness from 0.05 to 0.02, and it came out really soft and blurry in the details. my first guess is i overexposed the layers. does that sound right?

I use 2 seconds for all thicknesses (photon mono), but I've seen people suggest lowering it to 1,4 for easier support removal and less warping.
You should probably just print some of the small test pieces to see what's best for your screen.
Some of the lines could also be x/y voxel lines which can be very hard to get rid of.

# ¿ May 3, 2021 21:20

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Yeah, all these new printers with their monochrome screens was what finally made me buy one.

# ¿ May 3, 2021 21:55

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Nebalebadingdong posted:

I'm trying to design some bases for 3D printing in resin. My prototypes came out...okayish, but there's some warping. I think I saw somewhere that texturing or hollowing can help prevent that?
The very very bottom layers also don't always come out so great. Sometimes they're its a bit blobby. Is that just a settings thing or should I try to raise the base off the bottom layer?

The bases are quite small (40mmx20mm)

Also note: I dont actually have a 3D printer so I'm flying a bit blind here

I've been told that warping generally happens when a large layer is pulled off the fep. The edges of the layer doesn't adhere to the layer below it as well as the middle of the layer does, so it warps a bit.
Longer exposure for a harder layer, and/or slower lift for less of a yank on the edges could help. Or print at and angle and support the hell out of it.

I have no idea about the other issue, but then again, I'm not sure what you mean when you say blobby

# ¿ May 9, 2021 15:00

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

I changed resin from Anycubic's Transparent Green, to Elegoo water washable. The upside is that it's way easier to remove the supports, with way less shattering, the downside is that water takes a long time to dry compared to the acetone that I use on the regular resin.
I'm just happy that I can see the details much better on the opaque prints.

# ¿ May 11, 2021 13:04

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

jesus WEP posted:

i got the anycubic compostable resin and im kinda nervous that it�s an extremely loose definition of compostable that will end up with my homegrown vegetables killing me

Print and eat a sandwich. Let us know how it turns out!
Is it good for printing? I might switch to it next time I run out, if it's any good, since less incredibly weird chemicals can't be all bad.

# ¿ May 11, 2021 13:22

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

jesus WEP posted:

I think the knuckles, fingernails, wrist tendons all show off a decent finish on it. ignore the half-finished paint job please ive only blocked in rough colours

I'm always sceptical when when something is being marketed as "just as good!", but that looks great!

# ¿ May 11, 2021 15:26

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Bucnasti posted:

Will regular polyurethane primers work on resin printed models?

Yeah, you can paint it no problem when it's cured.

# ¿ May 14, 2021 18:18

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

I'd add more supports. At least one to each of the lower black areas on the picture, since it looks like you're getting a bad pull for a while before the next support connects.

# ¿ May 14, 2021 18:50

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

After cleaning my water washable prints with water for a while, I've started using acetone to clean them instead. It's just easier for me, and it lead to less piles of weirdly gummy water sitting around.
I should probably make a note for the dangerous chemical guys who'll be picking up a box of strange grey putty.

# ¿ May 15, 2021 13:04

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Oh yeah, water washable resin is still crazy poisonous, and should never be poured down the sink, or get into contact with nature in any way.
It's one of the reasons that I've gone back to acetone for cleaning, it's easier for me to get rid of small amounts of "normal" dangerous chemicals, than much larger amounts of tainted water.

# ¿ May 15, 2021 15:31

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

It took me four tries, and fails, at printing an stl before I thought to take a look at the file. Turns out that it's incredibly broken, so I could have saved a lot of time by just looking at how the sliced file would print.
Live and learn, I guess!

Verisimilidude posted:

Gonna x-post this here since everything was printed. 3d printing is the future, and I honestly can't justify buying normal models any more because of it.

I've been following your posts in the painting thread, and I have to say that those dudes look great!

# ¿ Jun 3, 2021 20:20

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Well, Reign in Hell finally gave me a reason to print a bunch of Bestiarum's monster-demon guys.
Are there any other patreons that make super dark fantasy figures like that?

# ¿ Jun 4, 2021 20:45

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Guest2553 posted:

OK, it's impulse buying time...some of the prime deals are bordering on too good to pass up, but expire today. The general takeaway I've seen was 'can't go wrong with mars 2 or photon mono'. Is the 20% price spread worth the minor differences?

Mars 2 - 200
Mars 2 pro - 240
Anycubit photon mono - 190

I like my Mono, never had any problems with it. That obviously anectodal evidence that it's good.
Something you might want to consider is that the fep on the mono is bought as an assembled product which is then screwed onto the reservoir, for easy installation. The Mars 2 uses the "normal" style fep that take more care to install.
That also means that you pretty much have to buy fep for the Mono from Anycubic.

# ¿ Jun 22, 2021 20:19

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

InternetJunky posted:

I don't have experience with the mono specifically (just Mono SE and Mono X) but I've switched all my small machines to Mars2 Pros recently so my highly biased answer is to get that one. I've never heard of this mono-specific FEP Electric Hobo mentioned but that sounds like a pretty big pain to be honest. My Mars2 Pros all came with 3 extra FEPs as well which I didn't get with any Anycubic machines I've purchased.

Yeah, I've never actually had to change any kind of FEP, but I'm not a fan of these semi-proprietary parts, since they always end up discontinued when I need them the most.
Anyway, the Mono FEPslook like a small pictureframe, here's a video about it https://youtu.be/kXrWJEmQxps

# ¿ Jun 22, 2021 21:47

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

That sucks!

# ¿ Jun 23, 2021 17:55

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Geisladisk posted:

Figured I'd post these guys here, too, since they were smelly goo in a bottle a week ago. 20 Grave Guard for my Gravelords army.

Those are cool, both the paintjob and the sculpts. Who made those?

# ¿ Jul 25, 2021 19:31

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Class Warcraft posted:

Speaking of animals - anyone come across any nice STL's for pack animals? Looking for mules, donkeys, camels, elephants, whatever with baggage on them.

This is for historical gaming so nothing fantastical por favor.

edit: also 28mm or re-scalable to 28mm.

This guy has a few https://www.myminifactory.com/users/critgames
Here's another https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-horse-trainer-horse-c-donkey-174310

# ¿ Jul 27, 2021 09:59

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

jesus WEP posted:

how badly am i loving up by just using the anycubic slicer? I Guess it�s fine-ish since i just use the presupported versions of models, but I should probably stop because they all overdo it to an insane degree

It kept crashing for me, so I just use chitubox now. It worked fine, when it worked.

# ¿ Aug 5, 2021 14:32

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

I'll say that they shouldn't.

# ¿ Aug 26, 2021 13:55

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

I'm just sad that I can't go somewhere and easily find whatever Epic scale minis I feel like printing anymore. Figuring out the magic words to search for on Cults and wherever is a hassle.

Eediot Jedi posted:

I thought I got banned off the discord for posting a video link it disappeared so fast.

Having tonnes of failures with prints getting ripped off their supports. Not sure what's changed, I'm sure these support + exposure settings have been fine previously. Gonna back down the lift speeds. If that fails up exposure slightly? IDK

Are you at the end of a bottle of resin, and have you been shaking it a ton? When I used Elegoo Water Washable, I'd have to stir it a couple of times in the vat, or it would visibly seperate and prints would fail. You might be hitting a point where you aren't getting enough of the good stuff in the vat.
Maybe try cracking a new bottle, and see if that makes a difference?

# ¿ Aug 27, 2021 08:20

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Are there any good guides about digital kitbashing out there? Both for meshmixer, or similar, and Blender.

# ¿ Sep 10, 2021 17:11

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

I believe that it's fairly simple if you have and .svg. There are loads of tutorials for it out there, especially if you want to slap in on a shoulder pad.
I'll try making it on monday, just because I'm interested in basic 3d modelling like this.

# ¿ Sep 18, 2021 23:07

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

The Demilich posted:

Oh hell yeah, that's good to know; also a huge thank you for giving it a try!

Well, I made something!

It's curved and sized so it should fit on a normal shoulder pad, but I haven't tried. Both pieces are one file, but that's not a problem when you support it.
Now to do it with all the chaos chapters, and make the big bucks selling stls!

I just realized that I have no idea where to host files anymore, so pm me an email address, and I'll send you the file.

# ¿ Sep 20, 2021 19:16

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

w00tmonger posted:

Looks good. People have been nailed selling chapter iconography so tread lightly

Not surprising at all, really. I was just joking, there's no way I'd want to do this for a ton of icons that I'd never use.
But it makes it possible for me to make an icon for my Kill Team marine guys, and that's pretty nice.

# ¿ Sep 20, 2021 19:49

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

I made myself some D6 with orders for Kill Team. 4 sides are for the actual orders, and the last 2 are for the injured, and "carrying an objective" statuses.

# ¿ Oct 11, 2021 13:16

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Bucnasti posted:

how do you print your dice to make sure they're square and even?
I have't tried but it my prints on supports always have a bit of a lumpy side and my prints directly on the plate always have a bit of a lip and squish on the bottom. Either way that seems bad for a die.

These aren't for rolling, but are just multisided tokens, so it's less of a problem.

I don't have any lumpiness or weird warping after I started thinking about my supports, and adjusting my lift speed.
I also support all my dice to avoid anything getting mashed.

# ¿ Oct 11, 2021 16:12

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Paradoxish posted:

Anyone have any good recommendations for Patreons or other sources of 40k-appropriate 6mm stuff? Kind of interested in trying to proxy up an Epic army, but I haven't found been too successful at finding anything particularly good.

Wake's Emporium has made some different Guard armies, orks, and Tau. https://www.patreon.com/WakesEmporium

# ¿ Oct 20, 2021 09:15

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Hedningen posted:

I have started getting less terrible at 3d sculpting. Still deciding on hand styles and how to make this guy Slaanesh-themed for my Chaos Renegades team, but it was a quick sculpt that managed to come together quite nicely. Getting close to what I can do with putty and wire, at least.

This is cool! Where do you start learning about sculpting something "real" like this?

I made a Necron barricade for the Kill Team. Windows 3D Builder is surprisingly good for making stuff like this.

# ¿ Oct 22, 2021 11:10

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Doctor Zero posted:

Hopping??

I'm guessing a Jiangshi. A vampire that catches you because you're laughing too hard to run away.

Edit: I'm too slow

# ¿ Oct 26, 2021 21:06

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

aldantefax posted:

Does anybody have any recommendations for generic modular STLs that can be used for a variety of terrain purposes?

Terrain4Print on thingiverse has some okay stuff. I've printed a lot of the Ulvheim ruins for generic fantasy gaming.

# ¿ Oct 27, 2021 17:47

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# ¿ May 15, 2024 19:47

Electric Hobo: Oct 22, 2008; What a view!; Grimey Drawer

Aniodia posted:

Probably the best place to ask this. I'm pretty bad at blender, but I know it tends to be good for editing models and meshes and crap like that. Now, I want to emboss images onto some Warmaster shields, because freehand just isn't my friend, but I'm not only just bad at blender, I'm bad at trying to find an easy tutorial for blender that can show me what I need to do. So if y'all know of a good, simple tutorial (video, written, whatever) that can show me how zazz up my shields and banners when starting with some flat images, it would be quite helpful.

You can do it in 10 seconds with Windows 3D Builder, if you have a black and white image.

# ¿ Oct 29, 2021 05:31

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