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22 Eargesplitten posted:Oh I'm not removing the transmission, I'm removing the engine. I just know once the engine is pulled out I no longer have any engine braking from the transmission being in gear. I've got the parking brake on which hasn't ever failed to work but also needs replacing at some point. I've never pulled an engine before so I think some of the anxiety is first time jitters. 22 Eargesplitten posted:It only seems to have one transmission mount, thanks for the heads-up on that. I don't have a transmission jack specifically, just normal floor jacks and jack stands. Fake edit: I just remembered a friend of mine is down on the Front Range, I'm going to ask him to pick up a HF transmission jack while he's down there and I'll pay him back. Why aren't you using wheel chocks? This is a very bad idea. Do not kill yourself doing a bad idea.
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Dec 13, 2022 00:08
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builds character posted:Why aren't you using wheel chocks? This is a very bad idea. Do not kill yourself doing a bad idea. 22 Eargesplitten posted:. I've got all four wheels chocked
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Dec 13, 2022 00:49
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Then what is the actual actionalble concern here? All of this reads like you're in over your head by far 22. Have you considered backing up and considering a different path here?
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Dec 13, 2022 01:10
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At this point I don' t really have a concern aside from wanting to make absolutely sure this thing doesn't roll, and frequently being oblivious to the obvious solution (like check if I can make it roll in neutral) I was worried about finding out. Well, I am concerned about whether the hoist will go high enough but I have two ideas in case it doesn't. (1, lower the front, 2, remove the core support, AC condenser, and grill). My initial questions in this chain were about an unknown sensor with a shattered boot (that ended up being the knock sensor) and whether I had to remove the starter from the bellhousing (yes, and now it's done). Intellectually I know that I've taken all the proper precautions but I'm just a generally anxious person and that's all amplified when I'm doing something new because my inner voice is always telling me I'm not good enough but this isn't E/N.Advent Horizon posted:From experience, the scissor lift-style transmission jacks are entirely inadequate for a transmission + transfer case. They don’t handle unbalanced loads. What would you recommend instead? Seems like I would need to disconnect the transmission from the transfer case? Or two jacks? Per the specs I looked up the NV3500 is about 110lb empty. E: I should specify that the AC system is already empty so I'm not going to blow a bunch of freon into the air if I have to remove the condenser.
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Dec 13, 2022 02:00
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I used the lovely harbor freight transmission jack to reinstall the transmission when I did the clutch in mine. I couldn't get it lined up any other way. I wouldn't try a semi truck transmission on the thing but a nv isn't that heavy. Getting the transmission out was harder than anything else, I used my porta power cylinder and every prybar and hammer I had to split the engine and transmission. Then a cold chisel to remove parts of the bell housing from the engine after the transmission was already out.
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Dec 13, 2022 02:15
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Fair enough. In that case, carry on.
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Dec 13, 2022 02:48
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22 Eargesplitten posted:What would you recommend instead? Seems like I would need to disconnect the transmission from the transfer case? Or two jacks? Per the specs I looked up the NV3500 is about 110lb empty. The ‘800-pound’ transmission jack at HF is fine. The reason you need a ‘better than the cheapest’ jack is because the transfer case front output prohibits the whole thing from sitting level on a small jack; decent jacks have both a wide stance and the ability to tilt. You will also need the tilt to get things lined up again upon reassembly. Not a GM truck transmission/transfer case, but this gives you some idea of the problem:   That second picture shows the tilt needed for that particular setup to be secure. This is the Harbor Freight 800 pound model, which can often be found on sale for not-much-more than the cheap scissor lift. Also buy a couple disposable ratchet straps to secure the whole thing. When you get it all in place just cut the strap. WAY better and more secure than chains. But, honestly, if I were in your shoes I would pull the core support and take the engine/transmission/transfer case out as one assembly.
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Dec 13, 2022 02:50
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Motronic posted:All of this reads like you're in over your head by far 22. Have you considered backing up and considering a different path here? We all popped our cherry somehow. Some of us with little stuff like a Honda D15, some with a 454. He's got a straightforward swap, some masochists with Rovers. It's just first time jitters, see here: 22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm just a generally anxious person and that's all amplified when I'm doing something new because my inner voice is always telling me I'm not good enough but this isn't E/N. Sounds like we're pretty similar in that regard, and I still get nervous doing engine swaps. Take a step back, re-read everything, take plenty of pictures as stuff comes apart. You have a very straightforward swap to do with plenty of room in the engine bay, and the benefit of being able to take your time. If something doesn't seem right, go to the School of Youtube for a little bit. Don't get in a hurry, that's how mistakes are made. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Dec 13, 2022 |
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Dec 13, 2022 02:58
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Advent Horizon posted:The ‘800-pound’ transmission jack at HF is fine. The reason you need a ‘better than the cheapest’ jack is because the transfer case front output prohibits the whole thing from sitting level on a small jack; decent jacks have both a wide stance and the ability to tilt. You will also need the tilt to get things lined up again upon reassembly. Okay, I see what you are saying now. And I do have a couple cheap ratchet straps around here somewhere that I don't have much use for now that I bought some 2" flatbed straps from a trucker friend. I wish I was down there in person to get the $55 off that they currently have going for inside track members on that one but $55 would barely cover the gas driving 4 hours, let alone my time. Also I am reminded I need to cancel my Inside Track membership, I got it so I could get like $150-200 off a winch shortly before the truck exploded. Why do you suggest pulling the core support and taking everything out as one assembly? I'm guessing it would be easier to position the engine to hook it up to the transmission when they're both out, then I just ("just") slide it in the front again? I'm hesitant to pull more than I need to but also trying not to let the "should be faster" way end up taking me longer.
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Dec 13, 2022 03:08
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Because it's easier (and faster). You don't need to lift the engine nearly as high (which leads to a top-heavy hoist that tips over much easier), you don't need to worry about hitting the hood or removing it. You can separate the engine from everything else with the engine almost on the ground, with everything easy to reach (instead of doing half the work on your back trying not to drink ATF while blindly feeling for bolts).
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Dec 13, 2022 03:12
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STR posted:trying not to drink ATF while blindly feeling for bolts). Synchromesh
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Dec 13, 2022 03:18
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That makes sense. I already pulled the hood (and I'm pretty proud of managing that solo) to make it easier to reach everything and in preparation of pulling the engine, but I'll pull the front of it if that makes it easier. I've been talking through the process with a friend but he's never worked on this particular platform.
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Dec 13, 2022 03:53
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STR posted:We all popped our cherry somehow. Some of us with little stuff like a Honda D15, some with a 454. He's got a straightforward swap, some masochists with Rovers. It's just first time jitters, see here: I was never swapping a motor at a time when I had to ask someone if something was going to roll or not when I took out the last bolt or whatever. That's the gigantic red flag of lack of experience to the point of being dangerous.
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Dec 13, 2022 04:04
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I wish I was down there in person to get the $55 off that they currently have going for inside track members on that one but $55 would barely cover the gas driving 4 hours, let alone my time. Also I am reminded I need to cancel my Inside Track membership, I got it so I could get like $150-200 off a winch shortly before the truck exploded. Tell your friend to use your phone number at the register. Inside Track is tied to your number and the cashier DGAF if the person paying matches the name on the phone number. My number gets used by half a dozen people.
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Dec 13, 2022 04:59
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meatpimp posted:Truth. My Escalade has has an electrical smell coming from deep-winter warmups for 2 years. I fully expect to find a spicy wiring harness when I finally pull the HVAC head. Should have looked at this over the summer. I started it this morning at -8*, and 10 minutes later I sat down to a huge electrical burning smell. Blower motor still works, but something's close to failure. 
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Dec 24, 2022 00:23
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EVERYWHERE 
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I'm sure you know where I'm going with this - was it on high, or a different speed?
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Dec 24, 2022 05:15
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STR posted:I'm sure you know where I'm going with this - was it on high, or a different speed? Still have all the blower speeds available. It's the automatic dual zone controller. I haven't seen a lot of difference between defrost and regular, so my bet is at least a blend door or two.
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Dec 24, 2022 13:17
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Blend doors - at least on most cars - usually strip the gears instead of burning up the motors. If they stick, they usually pop a fuse, or just sit there pulling power and giving a melty plastic smell. Would you believe me if I told you that you can get to the blend doors with 7 bolts and a paint pen on a Crown Vic/Town Car/Grand Marquis?  (you unbolt the passenger side of the dash, leave the steering column with the column already locked attached, remove the pinch bolt on the column and mark it, loosen a few bolts on the driver's side, yank the passenger side dash and drop it into the passenger seat - BAM you have an evap, heat core, and all of the blend doors right there in about an hour without even removing a single plug!)Uh, got distracted, sorry. Check the resistor anyway.
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Dec 24, 2022 13:52
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The blower motor resistor is a notorious failure point on the 400s.
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Dec 24, 2022 14:11
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Godholio posted:The blower motor resistor is a notorious failure point on And if you're Ford, you run the full current through the dash switch; when the switch fails you wind up with ~5-8V going through it. But ONLY when you have the blower in the circuit; if you probe the circuit with the blower motor disconnected, you get the full 12+V you'd see on any other circuit. It doesn't fall over until the blower is connected. Ford runs the GROUND through the switch on Crown Vics, F series, Econolines, and who knows what else that got stuck in the 80s. I bought my car with it wheezing a tiny puff of air out of the dash on "high" and negotiated down thinking it needed a new fan motor; new switch (<$20 at Advance) fixed it right up. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Dec 24, 2022 |
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Dec 24, 2022 14:12
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I smelled the burning on my 2003 and now I only have high on the blower working, I'm guessing it's a resistor pack that had enough. Were heated mirrors an option on any of the gmt800 lineup, I'm guessing at least the Denali or Escalade have it? After the recent weather I'm really missing it.
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Dec 24, 2022 23:45
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SpeedFreek posted:I smelled the burning on my 2003 and now I only have high on the blower working, I'm guessing it's a resistor pack that had enough. I would love it to be just a resistor pack. 2005 Escalade, mine has heated and folding side mirrors.
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Dec 25, 2022 00:35
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Yeah they were very much a thing, my replacement mirrors have the elements but the truck lacks wiring for it  I wish I had some time to throw down an effortpost on everything that went down with my 800s, I'm really really happy with the way it came out. Vette takeout LS2 cam (with tbss intake and longtubes, natch) in a 4.8 with an nv3500, an np246 and a torsen out back is a marvelous powertrain for the ice and snow. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Dec 25, 2022 |
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Dec 25, 2022 02:11
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a service manual for a 400 series? I've got a FSM but it's hot garbage and doesn't even include instructions for pulling an engine which has caused me a lot of suffering. I've always used FSMs before so I'm not sure if the Chilton/Haynes/whatever manuals are any good.
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Dec 27, 2022 22:14
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22 Eargesplitten posted:…include instructions for pulling an engine which has caused me a lot of suffering. So having owned a bunch of gmt trucks, 400s and 800s so far. You are as far as I know of not going to find a manual with a point by point breakdown of pulling the engine. There are probably really good detailed gmt specific forums info on it. But my dude honestly you have one of the simplest platforms made in the last 30 years for pulling an engine out of. Pull hood, pull front sheet metal (at minimum grill and core support etc.), separate engine from transmission (don’t forget the flywheel or torque converter bolts), disconnect every scrap of wire and hose in your way, pull engine forward then up and out over the bumper. Makes sure you’re following safety procedures too (chock tires and set parking break, don’t do this on a hill or a jetty etc.) Just my opinions from having wrenched on a ton of old chev trucks
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Dec 27, 2022 23:19
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Well that sucks, but okay. I'm usually a "read through the manual, visualize the process, read again, go try" type of guy when I have the opportunity to approach it that way. I think I've gotten everything disconnected, we'll see if there's anything else hiding on the back of the engine once I get it out. I feel like I had other beef with the FSM before this but I forget what it would have been.
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Dec 28, 2022 17:33
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For something of this vintage this is about what you'd find in the fsm. E: any domestic truck manual of this era will have some drawings but they're crude at best in monochrome and drawn probably with a crayon. cursedshitbox posted:
If you want cool infographics, cab removal steps and the like with detailed cad drawings buy something from ehhhh 2010 onwards. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Dec 28, 2022 |
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Dec 28, 2022 17:38
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The FSM is admittedly not great, but that GMT400 is right at the tail end of an era where you could have a thousand different permutations under the hood. If it had a true step by step guide it would have at least thirty different "remove/disconnect X, if equipped" steps, and probably some branching flowchart poo poo where "if truck has X engine, and Y option and Z option, do this, otherwise if truck has X engine and only Y or Z, do this instead" You don't get FSMs with perfectly linear instructions until you get to the kind of standardization that didn't happen to domestic trucks for about another decade after yours was built. CSB nailed it anyway. I don't think any fullsize truck exists where the order of operations is not "remove everything attached to engine, pull engine out the top", until you get to the hateful Fords where step one is "remove cab".
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Dec 28, 2022 18:57
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So I did a bit of troubleshooting of the HVAC today. I warmed it up for about 10 minutes and was sitting in a parking lot. HVAC controls set to "Auto." Started to smell electrical. Ran the blower speed up and down, still have full range of blower speeds. Ran blower on 5 different settings from low to high with no smell. Ran the manual air direction through all of its ranges, seems to have blend doors working all over -- can get direct air to the face, to the feet, to the windshield, and combined. From what I see, it's working, just getting more burn-y as time goes on. If it stays warm here, I may pull the bezel and see what's behind the HVAC controller.
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Dec 30, 2022 00:37
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meatpimp posted:So I did a bit of troubleshooting of the HVAC today. I think you want to pull the blower motor resistor and see what it looks like. Might be full of crap that is burning on the cooling fins when it's on anything other than high. That can be coming from the intake or just a constant supply form the blower fan if it's already packed full of poo poo. So pull that next.
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Dec 30, 2022 01:15
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The harness that leads to the resistor also likes to melt and eventually burn out. So check that too. I changed both in my old Silverado.
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Dec 30, 2022 03:00
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Well that sucks, but okay. I'm usually a "read through the manual, visualize the process, read again, go try" type of guy when I have the opportunity to approach it that way. I think I've gotten everything disconnected, we'll see if there's anything else hiding on the back of the engine once I get it out. I feel like I had other beef with the FSM before this but I forget what it would have been. I used to use Haynes manuals from the day. Might be able to find one specifically for the old 400s. They were typically "OK" - if not exhaustive.
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Dec 30, 2022 18:22
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Motronic posted:I think you want to pull the blower motor resistor and see what it looks like. Might be full of crap that is burning on the cooling fins when it's on anything other than high. That can be coming from the intake or just a constant supply form the blower fan if it's already packed full of poo poo. So pull that next. Blower resistor looked old and slightly corroded, not a lot of grunge in the fins, but I sprayed it with contact cleaner just 'cause it was nearby.  I'll keep watching it. sharkytm posted:The harness that leads to the resistor also likes to melt and eventually burn out. So check that too. I changed both in my old Silverado. Hopefully I won't have to go that deep.
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Dec 30, 2022 18:32
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meatpimp posted:I'll keep watching it. Yeah, that sucks. Looks way to clean to be the easy answer to your problem.
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Dec 30, 2022 18:34
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fwiw pretty sure that's a fet and not a big dumb resistor.
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Dec 30, 2022 19:08
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cursedshitbox posted:fwiw pretty sure that's a fet and not a big dumb resistor. And those do like to fail without anything physically obvious being wrong. Fuckin’ Chrysler radiator fans…
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Dec 30, 2022 20:12
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I think the auto climate gets that and the manual (5 fan speeds) gets the resistor pack.
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Dec 30, 2022 23:21
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SpeedFreek posted:I think the auto climate gets that and the manual (5 fan speeds) gets the resistor pack. Yep, it's called a "Blower Motor Control Module / Resistor," I think... but same function and similar failure modes.
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Dec 30, 2022 23:26
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I've got the engine out of my '92 truck and am almost ready to put the new one in but I need a clutch pilot bearing. There are two different kinds, one with teeth inside one without. The new (used) engine came out of an automatic van and it's going in a manual (5lm60/NV3500) truck. The new engine had one with no teeth, am I right in thinking that the manual needs one with teeth? That seems to be what the pictures on Rockauto are suggesting but I want to make sure I don't get the wrong one from Autozone, hook the engine all the way up, and then have a truck that won't move when I've got everything back together.
22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Jan 6, 2023 |
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Jan 6, 2023 17:38
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Not sure what you mean by teeth, but pilot bearings are generally either a rolling element type needle bearing with the elements riding right on the input shaft OR a self-lubricated bushing (usually some sort of oil impregnated bronze-type alloy) Either should work but I personally prefer bushings if given the choice. Reason being I've seen those bearings seize and totally fail (it's not really a sealed area or a type of bearing that lends itself to being sealed well) and the bearings elements are hardened . Bushings are not as hard as the input shaft of the transmission. But, as long as they are the right physical size, in all reality probably doesn't make a huge difference in practice. Just make sure it fits nicely.
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Jan 6, 2023 17:49
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