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bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Strange question...


I want to put a finish on wood that will make it sort of slippery, durable, and waterproof. Basically, I'd like the board to have the same properties as a piece of this stuff http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/hdpe_sheets/529


My far-fetched idea was to paint it with this http://www.amazon.com/FloraCraft-Floral-Accessories-Acrylic-Water/dp/B003V4A8E0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427735189&sr=8-2&keywords=fake+water

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bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

thespaceinvader posted:


Is there a reason you can't just use HDPE?

Cost. Wanna do hundreds of square feet.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

This may be a strange question, but I'm redoing my closet and trying to go mostly custom. I want it a bit reconfigurable though. Are there any fancier\nicer adjustable shelving hardware as opposed to the old 'bunch of holes with some sort of peg in them' systems? I know they exist, but I guess I'm looking for something really neat as far as wood working goes.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Anyone know of a good way to cut out a 2inch(diameter) half circle on the end of a board?

I bored 2inch holes halfway through a board, split it in half, then want to make slats that fit in to the half moon slots... I don't have anything that is exactly that shape to guide a router though. I made one by hand on the router, and that will do, but I need to make 20 or so of them and I was wondering if there was a better way. I basically want to invert a pattern... Figured there was a neat trick.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Deedle posted:

If you have a flush trim bit it's pretty simple. Make a half circle like you did before with radius 2"+ the diameter of your trim bit. Clamp some mdf over the semicircle, route it like you would any pattern. You now have a bit of mdf with a 2" round end that you can use as a pattern for your slats.

This seems like the most exact way, does require that I make some sort of circle making jig for the router though. Really surprised there isn't a more clever way to do this:(

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Cannon_Fodder posted:

I asked for a table saw for christmas, gents. Wish me luck!

http://www.consumersearch.com/table-saw-reviews/dewalt-dw745

Not the finest, but certainly better than nothing.

I'm still so loving excited. Chances are I'm going to get a completely different one that cost 1/4 the price though.

My question for you: What are some useful jigs (much like the dovetail one above) that I could put together? I'm hoping for simple, and looking to gain experience by making them.

This is my table saw, and I was sad to find out it won't take a dado blade. Didn't even know what a dado blade was when I bought it. Luckily, I have a nice router.

Other than that, this thing gets it done.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I never really understood the appeal of dado stacks. What can they accomplish that making multiple, slightly offset cuts can't? It seems like a lot of complexity to just save yourself from having to make multiple passes. Maybe if you knew you had to make a lot of grooves it'd make more sense, but for most users the extra time spent changing blades would seem to wipe out any gains.

I had never done box joints. Did one this weekend with successive cuts and it came out just okay(after some sanding and adjusting. With a sled I think it will be a breeze, but I'd still use a dado or router if I knew I had to do a lot of them.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

nosleep posted:

For Christmas I'm gonna get my dad this brad nailer and air compressor.

Brad Nailer

Compressor

Neither tool seems to come with a hose and I can't tell if there is a certain size I shoulder order. Can anyone help point me in the right direction? There also appears to be a higher PSI compressor that comes with accessories and if that's cheaper in the long run, maybe that's a better option?

Thanks!

I grabbed this combo from home depot the other day... http://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-6-Gal-150-PSI-Air-Compressor-and-16-Gauge-Nailer-Combo-Kit-PCFP72671/204369377

appears to be the nailer\compressor you're buying as a combo with hose for $10 dollars cheaper.

Edit: just realized home depots web prices might be zip code based. I'm seeing the combo for $159.99 and that's the price i payed in store. It's the 150 psi compressor.

Double edit: Looks like you were looking for the 18 gauge... http://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-6-Gal-Portable-Electric-Air-Compressor-and-18-Gauge-Brad-Nailer-Combo-Kit-PCFP12236/203471324 $199. But F that, the the 16g, 18g, and stapler package for the same price http://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-C...12234/203471431

bobua fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Dec 15, 2015

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Building a firebowl stand out of some leftover walnut from another project. Will be outdoors 24/7. What's the best thing to finish it with? I've only ever done shellac and poly.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

My first attempt at making anything more complex than a square. I've checked all of these with a bevel gauge as well as just lining them up together and making sure they are all identical. I've also just taken 3 at a time and a large square and tried to get the outer 2 to be perfectly perpendicular. Any ideas or suggestions?

http://imgur.com/a/SR64y

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

oxbrain posted:

Measuring is the enemy of precision. Fudge it so each opposing pair was more or less parallel and then file/sand the edges until there are no gaps.

Even cutting those out on a cnc router would give you some mismatch.

drat it. I sort of read the same thing on a google search just now. I assumed it was collusion between my stock miter gauge, no-name chop saw, and dollar store protractor so I had ordered a nice Incra replacement. :(

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

What if I glued up each joint separately, then bent the whole thing a bit (and sanded the last connection) to get matches?

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I was able to fix it by taking a degree off each side of just 2 parallel boards. Lined up perfectly. Unfortunately, I have to get an 'inner' octagon to line up the same way, while lining up with holes I've drilled in the outer for copper bars that will connect them inside. Going to be ridiculously tedious. Definitely bit off a bit more than I could chew with this design, especially since I've committed some really nice hard wood to the project:(

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

To the guys woodworking in your basement, do you all have dust collection systems? I work in my garage, and keep as much as I can on wheels. Wheeling things out into the driveway to work when it's not too cold. Even running the chop saw with a vacuum attachment tends to give the garage a nice dusting...

Does a dust collection system really solve that, or are you just dealing with it?

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Scored 2 freshly retired wine barrels from a winery I visited a while back. Pretty sure 1 is going to be a coffee table, but besides what I can find by google image searching, you guys have any suggestions?

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

My little cyclone thing from amazon came with 2 buckets. I never figured out why and left them stacked together like they came.

Mystery solved.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

https://imgur.com/a/bcw0s

Finally got the pantorouter build to a usable state. Operating with one hand while trying to take a video is not the best, but this thing's a great way to dust up the garage.

(couldn't embed)

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

MetaJew posted:

How hard is it to make the templates for the pantorouter such that you'll get tight fitting mortise and tennons, for example?

That part is a breeze. The hard part for me has been setting them up and aligning them.

For example, for my first project I'm putting a tennon on the end of 12 1x3's. Setup was about 5-10 minutes, and cutting them all took less time than vacuuming the mess I made. The mortises will be harder, because they'll be at varying places, so I can't just setup some guide blocks and drop the boards in the same place every time. The only real annoying part is adjusting the height of the template on the holder. I've already made a make-shift copy of the aluminum version of the pantorouters template holder that helps a lot, but I think I'll end up making some sort of screw-based height adjustment for it to easily tune it while keeping it level.

I printed the template I'm using in this picture, but I made my first by hand on the bandsaw and it game out fine too.

http://imgur.com/a/aTwq3

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

http://eduardlocota.com/product/dark-side-lamp/?v=f5b15f58caba

If one was to try and make something like this, any tips? Is this just acrylic resin? Tough to work with? Maybe one of those things that looks easier to do than it is?

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I'm building a cedar garden wall, any cheaper alternatives than just buying cedar fence pickets from home depot for the slats? Gonna be a lot of waste if I go that route.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Tres Burritos posted:

Decided fuckit gonna make me a cabinet with some pocket holes. Is this how you'd do it?


The plan is to make something like this to put a miter saw on, and also give it wheels since I don't have a whole bunch of space. That's why I'd put the pocket holes on the back piece on the inside. Would the 'Extra Top' help add to the stability and rigidity? Or is this thing hopelessly wobbly?

Are those red marks where the pocket holes are going? You aren't going to hurt anything but thats way more than you need.

See the way that second top rests on the vertical side pieces? That's how the normal top and bottom should be. That keeps the weight of whatever its holding supported by the sides instead of glue and screws. Think about where the stress will be on the item when in use, and how the parts best handle stress.

Your wobble is going to be mitigated by the Back piece. You seem to have that setup right from the pictures.

Are you going to have drawers, or will something rest on the bottom? If drawers, I'd keep the bottom as is, if heavy storage, use the same principle as the top.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Moatman posted:

Is it possible to buy square edged, furniture quality 2x4s for a reasonable price or am I gonna have to find a joiner and slice some stud 2xs into what I want (or I guess I could glue two 1x4s or 2x2s together but that sounds like it could go bad quickly

I keep a pile of $2.00 2x4s in the garage. After a few months they pretty much do the twisting they are going to do, then I rip the sides off to get square edges and build things for the shop.

No where near furniture quality, but I can try stuff for basically free.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I just ordered a cheap shop fox 6inch jointer. I've never owned or used one, how disappointed will I be?

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I made a thing that doesn't wobble!




Still gotta make the deadman, but it's pretty much done.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

That's a good-looking bench. Any idea how much it weighs?

Thanks!

I don't really have any idea. Its about 80 inches long, 24 inches wide, and a little over 4 inches thick. Each leg is 3.5x4 i think, hard maple and walnut.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I just did the dog holes in a 4.5 inch maple benchtop. Just took a piece of scrap wood about 2 inches thick and bored a hole with the drill press, used it as a guide for starting each dog hole, worked fine.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

JEEVES420 posted:

I personally don't really like Sawstops, I am afraid of tripping the safety cutting a material that might be a bit too wet or have a staple in it. If I disengage the safety feature before cuts then there is no point in having it.

Fear and respect are my safety on a table saw :colbert: Scarier the saw the more fear and respect I have so the safer I am...:downs:

It was a bit of a no-brainer for me. I wanted a really nice cabinet saw, and a trip to the ER here for a few stitches much less re-attaching a digit would hit my medical insurance's max out of pocket, which is about the costs of 4 sawstop pcs's.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Probably has a position somewhere he can buy at cost in actual quantity without a problem. Kinda like your friend in highschool that could use his employee discount to get you 10 percent off shoes, but was only supposed to do it for his own purchases. The place he works at does enough quantity that dewalt doesn't notice, and he's in a high enough position that he's the one that's supposed to make sure people aren't doing that.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I have the non sliding version of that miter saw. Really wanna sell it and get that one:(

I don't bother with the laser, but I appreciate that the insert is removable like a table saw's, so I replace it and make it zero clearance. No help for beveled cuts but it's the best virtually free upgrade you can do imo.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

You definitely do not need a dust collector with that dewalt. It blows super hard and tends to make more chips than dust. Zip tieing a hefty to it would not work either, you need pretty big back with good flow. I attach a 30 foot 4 inch host to it and blow it outside, it still tends to blow the host off every once in a while with how powerful it is.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I have to make a his\her cornhole set as a wedding gift, college themed. Was hoping to buy something like a pre-made inlay for the logos, or maybe just a vinyl epoxied over? Any recommendations?

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

“We made a thing out of machined aluminum that solves a problem that doesn’t exist if you can read a tape measure or have even the slightest bit of manual dexterity and it costs $100”

And I want most of it :(

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

DevNull posted:

Anyone have suggestions on good coping and fret saws? I am willing to spend more money to get something higher quality.

I got the knew concepts and love it, but the only other I've tried is whatever home depot sells.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

BraveUlysses posted:

Hmm I was going to ask about if I really needed glue for my 100% pocket hole table for my BGE but I think all the posts on the last page convinced me to do it.

Progress thus far:



Jesus christ is that unjointed home depot lumber? I could spend a week driving around my area's big box stores and not find 2x4's that true.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I never plan, but I wish I was better about it.

I spent a huge amount of time in the shop staring at the wall making the tiniest design decisions. visualizing proportions isnt fun either, but i've heard 3d modeling it ends up fooling you there anyway.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I know this isnt the tool thread, but i'm giving up on finding a used jointer. Bout to start the long slog of comparing models. Anyone been through it recently and want to push me in a certain direction?

Minimum 8 inch, helical cutter head, parallelagram ways.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Been so impressed with my thrown together shooting board and jack plane I ordered an actual shooting board plane. I want to take the time and make a nice board but there are a lot of plans and videos to sift through. Any recommendations from your guys?

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I went the compressor route, don't regret it but I'll eventually get go the battery route too. I don't use the compressor enough to have it permanently setup taking valuable space, so pulling it out sucks.

Same with my paint sprayer. I got a big one, but setup and cleanup blows, so I'll end up getting a small one too:(

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I know this isn't a for-sale section, but I've got a worksharp 3000, stand, extra glass plates and discs I'm going to sell locally for cheap, and I know i've seen a few dallas area goons on this very thread, so I'd be happy to sell it to them even cheaper.

It's pretty much brand new, I'll let a local good have it all for $50.

Edit: looks like it’s sold to Jeeves

bobua fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Mar 4, 2020

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bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Jaded Burnout posted:

This isn't personal but I think there's site-wide rules against selling things outside of SA Mart, but I'm too sick right now to go look them up. In future probably best to put a thread in there as normal and link to it from here.

roger

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