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Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

womp womp womp womp

GD_American posted:

I'm told they have air in them.

Huff dis tire air man

WHOAAAAAA

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Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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http://winnipeg.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1990-Mazda-MX-5-Miata-Convertible-W0QQAdIdZ290365543

Haven't seen it yet, how much Miata could one get for $2500?

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Add on Aux-In modules work through an FM modulator that intercepts the radio antennae and broadcasts through a certain station when turned on. This will work with any head unit that has FM radio and you might need antennae adapters depending on the car.

You can do without a head unit and use any amp, you'll just need an Ipod/Aux to RCA cable to provide signal. The cheap mini hifi or motorcycle amps work the same way.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Seat Safety Switch posted:

  • Escort GT wheels with studded KW22 winter tires

Rallycross time :heysexy:

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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:( Sorry for your lovely neighbors.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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http://manitoba.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1990-Mazda-MX-5-Miata-Convertible-W0QQAdIdZ505046512

Ugggh, thoughts? It's not like I'm a stranger to rust repair.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Saw the rusty NA today, it's in pretty good shape besides the rust. But my god the test drive reminded me how much fun a low power sports car can be. Even in its slightly neglected condition everything just felt so right. As fun as the Fit is the test drive just amplified the issues I have with it (clutch and seat height, etc.) Put in an offer on it, seriously considering getting a Miata regardless though.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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poo poo gently caress, looks like I might be a Miata owner soon :gbsmith:

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Chiming in on the rollbar chat; you're effectively raising the center of gravity by installing one and risk having steel tubing slamming into the back of your skull if you get rear ended on the street.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Hmm a rollbar weighs less than I thought so sitting in the car does raise the center of gravity more...

There is dual durometer padding available but I don't know how much safer it is for your bare noggin. But I do agree that a rollbar should be installed only if you spend time on the track or enjoy performance driving.

Any recommendations for a shifter bushing/boot kit for a NA?

Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Oct 3, 2013

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Finally found a set of decently priced wheels for the NA/Fit (15x7 rota gt3 with RT615s) but hellaflushness has corrupted my brain and I'm afraid the +40 (or 42) offset will ruin my street cred. Is it safe to run say 7mm spacers? 10mm is apparently too much for factory studs.

Edit: Nvm 1/4" or 6.35mm will work.

Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Nov 8, 2013

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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The more I research suspension options the more confused I get uggggghhh. I think I'm going to get Vmaxx classics with a front RB sway bar unless the 949 Tecnas come out in the spring. Xida clubsports would be great but I think I'd rather use the difference to get a set of 15x9s + tires.

Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Dec 7, 2013

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Moisture inside the car will do it as well, snow on floormats, etc.

:siren:AFTERMARKET SEAT QUESTION:siren:

Which one would AI go with in an NA?
-2 Sparco Speed 2s for $400
Or
-1 Recaro Profi SPG for $700

Stock seats, no harnesses or rollbar yet. Both are used and in good condition, pretty sure the Recaro is real.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Phone posted:

2x Momo Start/Sparco Sprint for $700.

I guess it'd help if I could find regulations for hpde here, I haven't seen anything about mismatched seats. The Recaro will be way way more comfortable but I'd rather replace my busted suspension :(

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Phone posted:

It's OK, it's only a 1.6L car.

Words can still hurt :(

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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So this K series swap thing looks interesting

http://www.kmiata.com/about-us.html

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Hog Obituary posted:

When the swap alone is going to cost you $9k, it doesn't really seem worthwhile unless you're truly in love with a k-series or really really hate forced induction.

It all depends on the final price, I saw $5k being thrown around on the thread on miataturbo and $1-2k for the longblock. 240whp naturally aspirated with basic bolt ons sounds pretty appealing.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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I'm probably going with either Vmaxx and Techna coilovers because I'm a poor pleb.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Dual durometer padding or the Orange Aid stuff is another option.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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PM'd you

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Phone posted:

I need to get IEMs made because I don't want permanent hearing loss. :(

I have a pair of etymotic earplugs and I'm planning on amplifying the door speakers and a slim sub. More power is always the right answer.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Rhyno posted:

Anyone in NE Indiana looking for an NA project?

http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/4561037671.html

$1700


I wonder if he'd trade for a riced up Civic...

I wonder how hacked it is to warrant that kind of asking price.

GO LOOK AT IT

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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On paper the ND checks off most of the enthusiast wants: it's pretty much an NA with 50% more power and modern safety engineering, chassis rigidity, convenience features and good fuel economy.

The Mazda 2 interior looks fantastic and really evokes the minimalist NA6 dash.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Someone want to sell me the mirror part for a driver's side manual mirror?

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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http://www.autoblog.com/2015/01/30/2016-mazda-mx-5-miata-first-drive-review-video/

http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/first-drives/news/a24888/first-drive-2016-mazda-mx5-miata/

Specs look good and these previews are all really positive. Is M.net massively spergin out?

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

womp womp womp womp

Larrymer posted:

I've found the perfect car that I want to buy, but I'm realizing I don't think a miata will work for me again. :( I really want a nice street/track car but since the miata is a vert you have to have a rollbar, which is a pain in the rear end if you're 6'1". Because then you need a race seat mounted to the floor with the rear seat mounts cut out of the chassis and then it starts to become less streetable. I had a 94 and did all of this, and I'm not sure if I want to do it again. The race seat sucked (Sparco Sprint V) and sitting on the floor you have basically no padding. I'd like the car to be fun on track but not sacrifice comfort to get there.

Anybody have any thoughts? I've been debating this in my head for a couple days now.

Have you tried out other seat models? Entry level racing seats have gently caress all for padding and comfort, it might be worth investing in a better seat if that's the only issue. I've heard good things about the Pro-Car seat mounts too.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Top down, luggage on the parcel shelf :colbert:

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Dual durometer roll bar padding will mitigate the melon smashing:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2397

Again if it's going to be a street only car don't bother with a roll bar.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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All the articles list the base ND's MSRP at $29K? Or is that price for the Club trim?

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Twerk from Home posted:

That's the club trim.

Yessssss. Now why does it not come in Dynamic Blue Mica? :argh:

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Gangringo posted:

I'm 6'3" with longish legs and a shortish torso. Between simple reversible mods like clutch pedal adjustment, gas pedal modification, seat foam reshaping, and an armrest delete will a NB ever be comfortable enough to daily?

Smaller diameter aftermarket wheel (great mod regardless), PCI seat bracket that bolts to the floor with a non entry level aftermarket seat.

The NA might fit you better, some guys on mnet are even taller than you are.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Vroom vroom vroom oh god I hope I never get into an accident

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Chriskory posted:

I've never seen insight wheels on a miata before

:ssh: The tires on the Miata are shot and I want to break in the new LRR tires for the Insight so it's a win-win scenario. I'm getting some sweet, sweet fuel economy right now.

I am the Anti-AI :(

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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quote:

For 2009, the MX-5 Miata's 6-speed delivers quicker, lighter, more direct shift feel thanks to a new carbon coating on the 1st through 4th gear synchros and larger diameter syncrhos on 3rd and 4th gear.  6th gear is also slightly taller (0.787:1 vs. 0.832:1) for improved fuel economy and more relaxed highway cruising.

The NC1 has a weak shifter fork design apparently. Differences listed here:

http://www.miata.net/faq/america/2009.html

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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10/10, will beat cannibals to death with again.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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craig588 posted:

I actually move the seat forward in NAs and NBs for a more comfortable position with a 34 inch inseam. That's more for my arms to be comfortable though. I remove the dead pedal and let my left foot rest on the floor, that combined with "gutted" seats fits me very comfortably.

That's one of the reasons why I added a quick release hub and a smaller wheel, you can do the same thing with a steering wheel spacer too. That and a foamectomy definitely made the driving position a lot more comfortable.

Mr.Bob posted:

Darn. it is 34".

Other things people have done:

-Smaller diameter steering wheel
-Steering wheel spacer
-Aftermarket seat on a fixed seat mount
-Arm rest removal

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Monkey Wrangler posted:

Talking to a buddy of mine who's a fleet dealer. Apparently a lot of the 2016s are still being boated over. He and I talked about doing a factory order, since I'm not in a huge rush to get a new car. Hopefully this means I can use the Club as a base and get them to add some of the electronic stuff and seats from the GT. If not, at least I know I'll get the color I want :v:

FWIW the Canadian GT has all the Club goodies including the LSD

https://www.mazda.ca/globalassets/cars/brochures/2016-Mazda-MX-5-Brochure-EN.pdf?sessionid=80949a7b-a513-4791-b47d-fd4da8f64e70

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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Femtosecond posted:

- probably get a mazda shop to do the loctite fix as a preventative measure.

No need to do that, here are some preventative things you can do:

http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html

quote:

If you want to use the hope-for-the-best-if-I-don't-want-to-touch-it method of car maintenance, here are some simple guidelines:

Be very particular about belt tension for the accessory belts and the timing belt. Judging belt tension by the poke-with-finger method is a little questionable. Consider buying a belt tension checker.

If you are due for a timing belt change and the front seal is not leaking, change the timing belt but don't touch the pulley bolt. The timing belt can be replaced with out removing the cam drive sprocket from the crankshaft nose.

It is easy to use the bolt to turn the engine in order to install the new timing belt. Don't do this. Instead, put the car in 5th gear and roll it to position the crankshaft. Do not put a wrench on the bolt unless you intend to remove it!

If you really feel like you want to do something that might be constructive, replace the bolt with a new one.

I have a 90 with 243k km that has a lot of deferred maintenance and it's been running like a top if that makes you feel any better.

Edit:

quote:

REGULAR REPLACEMENT OF THE BOLT RECOMMENDED

The failure starts at the BOLT. It is undertorqued, overtorqued (stretching and yielding it), or the bolt creeps (stretches or fatigues) over time loosening the connection. An overtorqued bolt can not only stretch but cause the crankshaft threaded end inside diameter to expand. So even a fresh bolt may not retain it's torque. In any case as the bolt loosens the key, keyway, and timing cog take a beating. Only the crankshaft shoulder and timing cog can take the loads of operation. When the bolt becomes loose, the load shifts from the crankshaft shoulder to the other parts which rapidly self destruct.

Yes, most of the fault lies with the weak design that asks too much of that bolt. For this reason, the solution is NOT to leave the bolt untouched. That bolt is becoming older and older everyday. Every time you start the engine, the risk for failure increases. The bolt should be on a regular replacement schedule. I would recommend annually.

The bolt can be removed and inspected, the key can be slid out (sometimes) and examined without any other disassembly of the engine. I have a special socket I shortened with a grinder so I can remove the pulley bolt without removing the front anti-roll bar. If you ever find the bolt has not retained its torque, ferrous powder on the bolt or key, or the key rusted or smooshed, these are signs that the system is starting to fail. Sometimes a wobble can be seen when the engine is running. A wasted crankshaft keyway may, however, still rotate without runout. The static tension in the timing belt and accessory belts usually prevents a human hand from wobbling the lower pulley with the engine off. The only way to get a read on the crankshaft condition is to take the system apart.

If everything is in order, clean up the crankshaft and bolt shoulder seating surface with brake cleaning spray. Toothbrush the inside of the crankshaft threaded hole. Apply Loctite thread locker or sleeve retainer to a new bolt. Install NEW bolt and key. Torque to 87 foot pounds.

Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Apr 24, 2016

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

womp womp womp womp

Negromancer posted:

Huh, maybe I will just suck it up and pay for a Daikei one. I remember installing the one on my old miata being super easy and everything just worked. What size wheel are you using?

I used the NRG short hub and it went on really well, not sure how the prices compare.

Edit: I just realized my car doesn't have an airbag so that simplified things.

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Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

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BlackMK4 posted:

I'd turn the Miata into a track missile.
Also, car payments suck.

Road missile. There are quite a few kit cars that are designed for the Miata in mind, the Catfish and Exocet come to mind.

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